WO2016008117A1 - Composition d'écran solaire transparente, pulvérisable - Google Patents

Composition d'écran solaire transparente, pulvérisable Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016008117A1
WO2016008117A1 PCT/CN2014/082326 CN2014082326W WO2016008117A1 WO 2016008117 A1 WO2016008117 A1 WO 2016008117A1 CN 2014082326 W CN2014082326 W CN 2014082326W WO 2016008117 A1 WO2016008117 A1 WO 2016008117A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
composition according
glycol
weight
agents
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PCT/CN2014/082326
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English (en)
Inventor
Runshuang LU
Xiuxia Wang
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to CN201480080610.5A priority Critical patent/CN106535868A/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2014/082326 priority patent/WO2016008117A1/fr
Publication of WO2016008117A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016008117A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and especially to the field of sunscreen compositions.
  • UV-B rays radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm permits tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation with wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, harms the development of a natural tan. Exposure is also liable to bring about a detrimental change in the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, which is reflected by the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature ageing of the skin.
  • UV-A rays with wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm penetrate more deeply into the skin than UV-B rays.
  • UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin.
  • Daily exposure to UVA rays, even of short duration, under normal conditions can result in damage to the collagen fibers and the elastin, which is reflected by a modification in the microrelief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation (liver spots, lack of uniformity of the complexion).
  • Normal sprayable UV products contain mainly hydrophobic UV filter (or in other words hydrophobic UV-screening agent) in emulstion system.
  • compositions contain both oil-soluble and water-soluble UV filters and provide white spray mist, while some of them only contain oil-soluble UV filters. But such compositions contain only water-soluble UV filters (or in other words hydrophilic UV-screening agents). Water soluble UV filters provide only limited photoprotection ability.
  • Conventional UV sprays have a mist in white color, which give consumers a heavy feeling. There is need for developing compositions, in particular sprayable sunscreen composition, having a good UV-screening ability and avoiding the white color of conventional spray.
  • Anti-sun products provided in spray form are increasingly sought by consumers because of their ease of use and their cosmetic pleasantness. Unlike conventional anti-sun milks and creams, it is particularly difficult to obtain anti-sun compositions in spray form having a high protection index.
  • the present invention aims to provide a translucent or transparent composition, in particular a sunscreen composition presenting a good UV-screening ability.
  • the present invention also aims to provide a translucent or transparent composition, in particular a sunscreen composition, having only water soluble UV filters while presenting good feeling on the skin.
  • Another aim of the present invention is to provide a composition, in particular a sunscreen composition, having only water soluble UV filters while being uncolored when applied onto the skin.
  • Another aim of the present invention is to provide a sprayable composition, in particular a sprayable sunscreen composition, solving the above mentioned problems.
  • the invention aims to provide a translucent or transparent sprayable sunscreen composition. More particularly, such composition would be a transparent spray with mist and light texture when applied onto the skin, as appreciated by the user.
  • composition notably a sunscreen composition, comprising at least two hydrophilic gelling agent, wherein at least on is a gellan gum or a derivative thereof, and one or more UV-screening agents.
  • the use of at least one gellan gum improves the sunblocking or sun screening effect of a UV-screening composition or sunscreen composition. It has also been discovered that gellan gum and enable the preparation of a translucent or transparent sprayable UV-screening composition or sunscreen composition.
  • improving the sunblocking or sunscreening effect it is in particular meant the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) and/or PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening) value of a composition is higher when the gellan gum is present in the composition comparatively to substantially the same composition without gellan gum.
  • SPF is preferably measured according to International standard EN ISO 24444:2010 Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF).
  • PPD skin darkening that persists more than 2 h after the end of UVA exposure. It is determined according to ISO 24442:201 1 (en) Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of sunscreen UVA protection.
  • the term "sunscreen composition” or “sunscreen agent” means any composition or ingredient that absorbs or scatters at least a part of UV radiations and prevents said UV radiations from reaching the skin, especially deeper layers of the skin (typically the dermis). This term is broadly used to cover sunblocks and sunscreens. The efficacy of such compositions or agents is typically measured by the SPF and/or PPD value.
  • keratin material means the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes, and preferably the skin.
  • composition notably a sunscreen composition, comprising: a) at least two hydrophilic gelling agent, wherein at least one is a gellan gum or a derivative thereof, and b) one or more UV-screening agents.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of hydrophilic gelling agent, wherein at least one of the gelling agents is gellan gum or a derivative thereof.
  • Gellan gum is a polysaccharide produced by aerobic fermentation of Sphingomonas elodea, more commonly known as Pseudomonas elodea. This linear polysaccharide comprises a sequence of the following monosaccharides: D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid, and L-rhamnose. In the native state, gellan gum is highly acylated.
  • the at least one gellan gum, for example, used in the compositions according to the disclosure is an at least partially deacylated gellan gum. This at least partially deacylated gellan gum may be obtained by a high-temperature alkaline treatment.
  • a KOH or NaOH solution can be used, for example.
  • the purified gellan gum sold under the trade name "Kelcogel ® " by the company Kelco is suitable for preparing the compositions as disclosed herein.
  • the gellan gum derivatives are all products obtained by performing standard chemical reactions such as, for example, esterifications or addition of a salt of an organic or mineral acid.
  • welan gum is a gellan gum modified by fermentation using the Alcaligenes strain ATCC 31 555.
  • Welan gum has a repeating pentasaccharide structure formed from a main chain comprising D-glucose, D- glucuronic acid, and L-rhamnose units on which are grafted a pendent L-rhamnose or L- mannose unit.
  • the welan gum sold under the trade name "Kelco Crete ® " by the company Kelco is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the present disclosure.
  • the amount of at least one gum chosen from gellan gums and derivatives thereof used in the compositions as disclosed herein ranges from 0.005% to 10% by weight, such as from 0.05% to 5% by weight and for example, from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises in addition to gellan gum a second hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • Such gelling agent is preferably selected among taurate copolymers.
  • the composition comprises from 0.005% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 % to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1 % by weight, of hydrophilic gelling agent, in addition to the gellan gum or its derivatives, preferably a taurate copolymer, relative to the total amount of the composition.
  • said taurate copolymer is at least partially formed from acryloyl dimethyltaurate as a monomer unit.
  • the acryloyi dimethyltaurate is copolymerized with a monomer selected from the group consisting of styrene, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl chloride, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone, isoprene, vinyl alcohol, vinyl methylether, chloro- styrene, maleic acid, acrylamide, methacrylamide and mixtures thereof, polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent Preferred examples of this hydrophilic gelling agent are:
  • polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized such as the poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS ® " (INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, made with AMPS ® monomer (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid from LUBRIZOL); or crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS ® which are provided in the form of an emulsion, such as those sold under the name of Sepigel ® 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C 13 -C 14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7), under the name of Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate
  • Copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 by SEPPIC or under the name of Simulgel EG (CTFA name: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80); and any mixture thereof.
  • CFA name Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80
  • gelling agents may be present in the composition of the invention such as for example: o modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the Carbopol ® (INCI name: carbomer) and Pemulen (INCI name: Acrylates/C10- 30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) names by Goodrich; o acrylate/acrylonitrile copolymers, such as Hypan SS201 , sold by guitarist; o polysaccharide biopolymers, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates or modified or unmodified celluloses (other than gellan gum which is already present in the composition); o inorganic compounds, such as smectites or modified or unmodified hectorites, such as the Bentone products sold by Rheox, the Laponite products sold by Southern Clay Products or the product Veegum HS sold by R. T. Vanderbilt; o and their mixtures.
  • carboxyvinyl polymers such as the
  • Use is preferably made, as hydrophilic gelling agent, of optionally crosslinked polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent different from gellan gum and its derivatives, can be present in the composition in a content (in dry material) ranging for example from 0.005% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 % to 2% by weight and better still from 0.05% to 1 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent different from gellan gum and its derivatives, is present in the composition in a content (in dry material) less than 1 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, with respective to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention comprises organic or inorganic UV-screening agents, also known as filtering agents or filters, filtering wavelengths within the UVA and/or UVB ranges, which are hydrophilic or lipophilic or insoluble in routine cosmetic solvents.
  • the organic filters may be selected from anthranilics; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenyl benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives particularly those cited in the patent US5624663; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis-benzoazolyle derivatives as described in the patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis- (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives as described in the applications US5,237,071 , US 5, 166,355, GB2303549, DE
  • the composition comprises one or more hydrophilic UV-screening agents.
  • said composition comprises only hydrophilic UV-screening agents among UV-screening agents present in the composition.
  • the comprises less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1 %, more preferably less than 0.05%, of hydrophobic (or in other words "lipophilic") UV-screening agent.
  • the composition comprises 0% hydrophobic UV-screening agent.
  • hydrophilic UV-screening agent means any organic or mineral sunscreen agent capable of being fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • hydrophobic UV-screening agent or “lipophilic screening agent” means any organic or mineral sunscreen agent which can be fully dissolved in molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
  • insoluble UV-screening agent means any sunscreen agent which has a water- solubility of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alkyl benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812 ® sold by the company Dynamit Nobel.
  • This solubility, determined at 70°C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to room temperature. It may be readily evaluated in the laboratory.
  • organic UV filters include those referred to hereinafter using the INCI name thereof: Classification according to UVA and/or UVB radiation wavelength range
  • n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL A +" by BASF;
  • lipophilic filters are used:
  • the preferred hydrophilic UVA screening agent is Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid.
  • Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 from ISP);
  • Ethylhexyl Salicylate particularly sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS” by SYMRISE
  • Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate particularly sold under the name "DIPSAL” by SCHER
  • Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate particularly sold under the trade name "PARSOL MCX” by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;
  • Etocrylene particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL N35" by BASF;
  • Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300" by MERCK;
  • Ethylhexyl triazone particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL T150" by BASF;
  • UVASORB HEB Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone particularly sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 3V;
  • Benzalmalonate derivatives Polyorganosiloxanes with a benzalmalonate function such as Polysilicone-15 particularly sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;
  • lipophilic UV-B filters are used in the composition according to the invention:
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • PEG-25 PABA particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL P25" by BASF.
  • Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid particularly sold under the trade name "EUSOLEX 232" by MERCK,
  • the preferred hydrophilic UVB screening agent is Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid.
  • Benzophenone-1 particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL 400" by BASF;
  • Benzophenone-2 particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL D50" by BASF
  • Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL M40" by BASF;
  • Benzophenone-6 particularly sold under the trade name "Helisorb 1 1 " by Norquay;
  • Benzophenone-8 particularly sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid;
  • Drometrizole Trisiloxane particularly sold under the name “Silatrizole” by RHODIA CHIMIE or manufactured under the name “Meroxyl XL” by CHIMEX;
  • the preferential lipophilic organic UVA and UVB filters are selected from:
  • Benzophenone derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical such as
  • Benzophenone-4 particularly sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS 40" by BASF,
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise mineral filters which are pigments.
  • the pigments may be coated or uncoated.
  • the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or a plurality of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical surface treatments with compounds as described for example in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical surface treatments such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal (titanium or aluminum) alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (
  • the silicones are organosilicate polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, with a variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially consisting of a repetition of primary structural units wherein the silicon atoms are interconnected by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bound via a carbon atom on said silicon atoms.
  • sicones also covers the silanes required for the preparation thereof, particularly, alkyl silanes.
  • the silicones used for coating pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably selected from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogen siloxanes. More preferentially, the silicones are selected from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogen siloxanes.
  • the metal oxide pigments may have been treated with other surface agents, particularly cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
  • coated pigments are, for example, titanium oxides coated with:- silica such as the product "SUNVEIL” from IKEDA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO” from MERCK
  • - silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA” and “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA” from TAYCA, "TIOVEIL” from TIOXIDE, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia, - alumina such as the products “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)” and “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)” from ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from KEMIRA,
  • triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S” from TITAN KOGYO,
  • titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are for example Ti0 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane such as that sold under the trade name "T 805" by DEGUSSA SILICES, Ti0 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF Ti02SI3" by CARDRE, anatase/rutile Ti0 2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogen siloxane such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXYDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by COLOR TECHNIQUES.
  • Ti0 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane such as that sold under the trade name "T 805" by DEGUSSA SILICES
  • Ti0 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF Ti02SI3" by CARDRE
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by TAYCA under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by DEGUSSA under the name “P 25”, by WACKHER under the name “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name “UFTR”, by TOMEN under the name "ITS” and by TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ”.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are for example
  • Nanogard WCD 2025 those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies;
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are for example
  • Z-COTE HP1 those marketed under the name "Z-COTE HP1 " by SUNSMART (ZnO coated with dimethicone);
  • Nanophase Technologies those marketed under the name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (in 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
  • cerium oxide pigments are sold for example under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE” by RHONE POULENC.
  • the uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ”, “NANOGARD FE 45R AQ, “NANOGARD WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by MITSUBISHI under the name "TY-220”.
  • coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", “NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", “NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", “NANOGARD FE 45 BL”, or by BASF under the name "TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE”.
  • metal oxide mixtures particularly of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A", and the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261 " sold by KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 21 1 " sold by KEMIRA.
  • the pigments may be introduced into the compositions according to the invention as is or in pigment paste form, i.e. in a mixture with a dispersion agent, as described for example in the document GB-A-2206339.
  • said hydrophilic UV-screening agent is selected from the group consisting of sulfonic acid based hydrophilic UV-screening agents.
  • the composition of the invention comprises phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and/or terephtalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.
  • composition of the invention comprises from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of UV-screening agents.
  • composition of the invention comprises from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of hydrophilic UV-screening agents.
  • composition of the invention does not comprise hydrophobic UV- screening agents.
  • composition in accordance with the present invention may further comprise an oily phase.
  • oil means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the "fatty substance” comprises at least one hydrocarbon chain “fat” that is to say a linear hydrocarbon chain of at least 4 carbon atoms, unsaturated or not unsaturated, optionally substituted, in particular a linear hydrocarbon chain C 5 -C 30 .
  • the oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2/min. To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%.
  • the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish.
  • the mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals.
  • the evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm2) and per unit of time (minutes).
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included.
  • silicone oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • composition of the invention is oil-free.
  • oil-free mean a composition comprising a single liquid phase which is an aqueous phase (a liquid phase including water).
  • the oil-free composition of the invention does not comprise an oily phase.
  • oil phase means, according to the invention, a phase that forms a two-phase liquid system with the aqueous phase at 20-25°C and 101325Pa. Such “oily phase” generally comprises at least one oil.
  • oil means any fatty substance which is in liquid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the "fatty substance” comprises at least one hydrocarbon chain "fat” that is to say a linear hydrocarbon chain of at least 4 carbon atoms, unsaturated or not unsaturated, optionally substituted, and in particular a linear hydrocarbon chain C 5 -C 30 .
  • oil does not cover for example water-soluble active ingredients, water- soluble UV-screening agents, and water-soluble glycols (glycol generally comprising no linear hydrocarbon chain of at least 4 carbon atoms, unsaturated or not unsaturated, optionally substituted).
  • the composition of the present invention comprises: (i) from 0.005% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, more preferably from 0.1 % to 3%, of gellan gum or a derivative thereof; (ii) from 0.005% to 5%, preferably from 0.01 % to 2%, more preferably from 0.05% to 1 %, of hydrophilic gelling agent, in addition to the gellan gum or its derivatives, preferably a taurate copolymer; and (iii) from 3% to 40% preferably from 5% to 30%, more preferably from 7 to 20% of one or more UV-screening agents, wherein % are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase optionally with solid particles dispersed therein.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water.
  • the continuous aqueous phase may comprise at least one C C 4 alcohol, preferably in an amount of 0.1 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a alcohol according to the present invention may preferably be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols with at least one hydroxyl group, or dialkylene alcohols with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • the alcohol of the present invention is chosen from linear C C 4 hydroxyalkyls, C C 4 dialkylene alcohols, or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C C 4 alcohol with at least one hydroxyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • said C C 4 alcohol is selected from the group consisting of ethanols, ethylene glycols, dialkylene glycols, or a mixture thereof; preferably the C C 4 alcohol is ethanol, dipropylene glycol, and any mixture thereof.
  • composition of the present invention comprises from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight of the C C 4 alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one glycol, preferably selected from the group consisting of glycol alkylene, for example C i2 alkylene glycol, a dialkylene glycol, for example C C 5 dialkylene glycol, a silicone glycol coplolymer, for example a polyethylene glycol dimethicone, and any mixture thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises from 1 % to 40% of glycol by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the continuous aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25°C), for instance polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C C 4 )alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C C 4 )alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, but
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
  • the composition of the invention is an aqueous composition, preferably a gel, or hydrogel.
  • compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in particular from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field.
  • conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in particular from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants, acidifying or bas
  • organic solvents that may be mentioned are alcohols and in particular the short chain C 2 -C 8 polyols, for instance glycerol, diols for instance caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, propanediol, butanediol, glycols and glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
  • alcohols and in particular the short chain C 2 -C 8 polyols for instance glycerol, diols for instance caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, propanediol, butanediol, glycols and glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
  • Thickeners in additional to the hydrophilic gelling agents disclosed above, that may be mentioned include the cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives, for instance acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones, and mixtures thereof.
  • acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • mineral or organic acids for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • basifying agents examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, and also derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises one or more basifying agents chosen from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide.
  • the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, preferably between 5 and 1 1 approximately and even more particularly from 6.5 to 8.5.
  • active agents for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes or the nails, examples that may be mentioned include:
  • agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or which prevent their decomposition - agents for stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts;
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from fillers or viscosity increasing agents, gelling agents, gums, resins, thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • any additive usually used in the field under consideration chosen, for example, from fillers or viscosity increasing agents, gelling agents, gums, resins, thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable fillers and/or viscosity increasing agents include silicate clays such as, for example, silicate clays containing at least one cation which may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium, and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicate clays such as, for example, silicate clays containing at least one cation which may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium, and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of such products include smectite clays such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, vermiculites, stevensite, and chlorites.
  • Preferred examples of silicate clays which may be used in the present invention are chosen from lithium magnesium silicate, aluminum calcium sodium silicate, calcium magnesium silicate, sodium magnesium silicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, sodium potassium aluminum silicate, and sodium silver aluminum silicate.
  • the fillers and/or viscosity increasing agents are present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is oil-free, if one or more oils are present as additives their total amount should satisfy the invention's requirement (i.e. being less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1 %, more preferably less than 0.05%, in the composition).
  • the composition may be in the form of a gel, preferably an aqueous gel.
  • aqueous gel means a composition containing a continuous aqueous phase containing a viscoelastic mass formed from colloidal suspensions.
  • the viscosity of a gel according to the invention is measured at 25° C. using a ProRheo R180 machine (rotor 2) from the company Prorheo, and its value is generally 20 UD to 80 UD (Deviation Units) with the rotor 2.
  • the viscosity of the gel according to the invention is inferior or equal to 80 UD (rotor 2) by ProRheo at 25°C.
  • the viscosity is generally measured at 25°C with a viscosimeter PRORHEO R 180 with rotor 2 adapted to the viscosity of the product to be tested (rotor is chosen for having a measure between 20 and 80 for UD Unit Deviation), the measure being made after 10mn rotating the rotor inside the composition, with a shear rate from 200s "1 .
  • the gels in accordance with the present invention comprise an aqueous phase generally in a proportion of greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight and more particularly greater than or equal to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the gel. More surprisingly, a composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a gel that becomes fluid when sprayed.
  • the term "fluid” means a composition that is capable of flowing under its own weight, as opposed to compositions that are termed solid.
  • the viscosity of the composition of the present invention is decreased from a gel to a fluid, after being sprayed, for example the viscosity of the present invention after spraying is at least 100 time, preferably at least 500 times, and more preferably at least 1000 times, less than before spraying.
  • the viscosity of the gel before spraying is of 10 to 200 Pa s, for example from 20 to 100 Pa s.
  • the viscosity of the fluid after spraying is of 0.001 to 1 Pa s, for example from 0.005 to 0.1 Pa s.
  • the rheology was measured using the Rheometer MCR301 from the company Anton Paar, with cone/plate measuring system, with the cone being CP50. The measurement was made by following steps: measuring the viscosity n 0 of the gel at 0-100 seconds using shear rate of 0.01 s "1 ; measuring the viscosity of the fluid composition at 101-200 seconds using shear rate of 10000 s "1 .
  • composition of the present invention is sprayable or, in other words, capable of being dispensed in the form of fine particles.
  • composition may be dispensed using a dispenser having a spray nozzle.
  • the present invention also relates to a device comprising a container and a spray nozzle, wherein said container contains the composition of the invention.
  • the composition is translucent, or even transparent.
  • composition of the invention is a transparent gel.
  • compositions of the invention may be applied with any device having spraying means, including suitable aerosol or non-aerosol spray devices.
  • suitable aerosol or non-aerosol spray devices are preferred, and include for example, spray pumps such as the following: Eurogel Spray Pump (available from Seqquist Perfect, Cary III.), P1 spray pump (available from Precision, Ajax, Canada), Calmar Spray Pumps, Calmar, Inc., City of Industry, Calif, and and Mitani Mist Pumps (available from MITANI VALVE CO., LTD).
  • the composition of the present invention is transparent, or translucent, more preferably transparent.
  • translucent means which allows light to pass through without making it possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using 5 mm thick samples.
  • transparent means which allows light to pass through, and makes it possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using 5 mm thick samples.
  • composition of the present invention can be used for a non-theraputic process, such as a cosmetic process or method, for making up/caring for the keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face and the lips, by being applied to the skin, especially the face and the lips.
  • a non-theraputic process such as a cosmetic process or method
  • the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention, as it is or in cosmetic product for making up/caring for/cleansing/make up removing products for the skin, especially for the face and the lips.
  • the invention relates to the use of at least one gellan gum for improving the sunblocking or sun screening effect of a UV-screening composition.
  • the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the said keratin material, of at least one composition of the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a non -therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the skin, of at least one composition of the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a non -therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined in any one of the invention.
  • the examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions and processes according to this invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention.
  • Example 1 Hydrophilic UV-screening agents were added in water. Then gellan gum was introduced as a UV booster. The final formula was transparent and sprayable.
  • hydrophilic gelling agents AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE and GELLAN GUM
  • AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE and GELLAN GUM Two hydrophilic gelling agents were dispersed in water at 75 °C with a dispenser. They were then added to the water phase which contained other water soluble functional components such as preservatives (PHENOXYETHANOL and CAPRYLYL GLYCOL), alcohol, glycerin, and other glycols
  • UV-screening agents were neutralized by TRIETHANOLAMINE to pH around 7.0 in water under 25 °C. Then the neutralized UV-screening agents were introduced to the water phase.
  • Comparative n°1 does not contain any hydrophilic gelling agents
  • comparative n°2 and 3 contain only one hydrophilic gelling agent, different from gellan gum.
  • composition of the invention (n°1 & 2) contain less UV filters, but show higher SPF and PPD value indicating better UV protection, comparing to the comparative n°1 , 2 or 3.
  • Such compositions of the invention (n°1 & 2) are transparent sprayable sunscreen compositions.
  • composition of the invention (n°1 & 2) present a good feeling on the skin.
  • the composition n°1 of the invention presents a viscosity of about 40Pa s (as measured by Rheometer MCR301 from the company Anton Paar, with cone/plate measuring system, with the cone being CP50 at 0-100 seconds using a shear rate of 0.01 s "1 ).
  • the composition n°1 of the invention presents a viscosity of about 0.02Pa s (as measured by Rheometer MCR301 from the company Anton Paar, with cone/plate measuring system, with the cone being CP50 at 101 -200 seconds using a shear rate of 10000 s "1 ).
  • the composition n°2 of the invention presents a viscosity of about 74Pa s (as measured by Rheometer MCR301 from the company Anton Paar, with cone/plate measuring system, with the cone being CP50 at 0-100 seconds using a shear rate of 0.01 s "1 ).
  • the composition n°2 of the invention presents a viscosity of about 0.01 Pa s (as measured by Rheometer MCR301 from the company Anton Paar, with cone/plate measuring system, with the cone being CP50 at 101 -200 seconds using a shear rate of 10000 s "1 ).
  • users feel a mist and light texture of the composition of the invention when applied onto the skin, according to their own appreciation.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, notamment une composition d'écran solaire, qui comprend : a) au moins deux agents gélifiants hydrophiles, au moins l'un étant une gomme gellane ou un dérivé de celle-ci, et b) un ou plusieurs agents de protection contre les UV.
PCT/CN2014/082326 2014-07-16 2014-07-16 Composition d'écran solaire transparente, pulvérisable WO2016008117A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

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CN201480080610.5A CN106535868A (zh) 2014-07-16 2014-07-16 透明的可喷射防晒组合物
PCT/CN2014/082326 WO2016008117A1 (fr) 2014-07-16 2014-07-16 Composition d'écran solaire transparente, pulvérisable

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2020136219A1 (fr) 2018-12-26 2020-07-02 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant des filtres uv hydrosolubles
WO2020136226A1 (fr) 2018-12-26 2020-07-02 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant des filtres uv hydrosolubles
FR3104422A1 (fr) * 2019-12-17 2021-06-18 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant des filtres UV hydrosolubles ou hydrodispersibles, des épaississants hydrophiles et des tensioactifs hydrophiles
EP4104813A4 (fr) * 2020-02-13 2023-08-02 Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd. Composition cosmétique hydrodispersable sans huile bloquant les uv et son procédé de préparation

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2021046706A1 (fr) * 2019-09-10 2021-03-18 Yimin Sun Formulation d'écran solaire

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WO2001002028A2 (fr) * 1999-07-06 2001-01-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Dispositifs
US20040228810A1 (en) * 2003-05-13 2004-11-18 Starr Hamson Sprayable sunless tanning solution with sunscreen protection
EP1661552A1 (fr) * 2004-09-10 2006-05-31 SA.FO. S.p.A Composition cosmétique solide à application topique
US20130089507A1 (en) * 2011-10-11 2013-04-11 Fallien Cosmeceuticals, Ltd. Foamable sunscreen formulation comprising pigments
WO2013172990A1 (fr) * 2012-05-17 2013-11-21 Playtex Products, Llc Compositions de crème solaire visqueuses contenant de l'alcool

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001002028A2 (fr) * 1999-07-06 2001-01-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Dispositifs
US20040228810A1 (en) * 2003-05-13 2004-11-18 Starr Hamson Sprayable sunless tanning solution with sunscreen protection
EP1661552A1 (fr) * 2004-09-10 2006-05-31 SA.FO. S.p.A Composition cosmétique solide à application topique
US20130089507A1 (en) * 2011-10-11 2013-04-11 Fallien Cosmeceuticals, Ltd. Foamable sunscreen formulation comprising pigments
WO2013172990A1 (fr) * 2012-05-17 2013-11-21 Playtex Products, Llc Compositions de crème solaire visqueuses contenant de l'alcool

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2020136219A1 (fr) 2018-12-26 2020-07-02 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant des filtres uv hydrosolubles
WO2020136226A1 (fr) 2018-12-26 2020-07-02 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant des filtres uv hydrosolubles
FR3104422A1 (fr) * 2019-12-17 2021-06-18 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant des filtres UV hydrosolubles ou hydrodispersibles, des épaississants hydrophiles et des tensioactifs hydrophiles
WO2021122041A1 (fr) * 2019-12-17 2021-06-24 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant des agents de filtrage uv hydrosolubles ou dispersibles dans l'eau, des épaississants hydrophiles et des tensioactifs hydrophiles
CN114845780A (zh) * 2019-12-17 2022-08-02 莱雅公司 包含水溶性或水分散性uv-遮蔽剂、亲水性增稠剂和亲水性表面活性剂的化妆品组合物
EP4104813A4 (fr) * 2020-02-13 2023-08-02 Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd. Composition cosmétique hydrodispersable sans huile bloquant les uv et son procédé de préparation

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