WO2015140687A1 - Procédé de réalisation d'article tricoté, en particulier un soutien-gorge, sur un métier à tricoter circulaire pour tricot trame - Google Patents

Procédé de réalisation d'article tricoté, en particulier un soutien-gorge, sur un métier à tricoter circulaire pour tricot trame Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015140687A1
WO2015140687A1 PCT/IB2015/051898 IB2015051898W WO2015140687A1 WO 2015140687 A1 WO2015140687 A1 WO 2015140687A1 IB 2015051898 W IB2015051898 W IB 2015051898W WO 2015140687 A1 WO2015140687 A1 WO 2015140687A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
needles
knitting
produced
brassiere
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2015/051898
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Ettore Lonati
Fausto Lonati
Andrea LONATI
Original Assignee
Santoni S.P.A.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Santoni S.P.A. filed Critical Santoni S.P.A.
Publication of WO2015140687A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015140687A1/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/20—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with provision for narrowing or widening; with reciprocatory action, e.g. for knitting of flat portions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/023—Fabric with at least two, predominantly unlinked, knitted or woven plies interlaced with each other at spaced locations or linked to a common internal co-extensive yarn system

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for manufacturing a knitted article, in particular a brassiere, on a circular knitting machine for weft— knitting.
  • the invention relates to a product that can be obtained through this process and to a circular knitting machine for weft-knitting configured for implementing this process.
  • traditional brassieres have a complex structure and are manufactured by means of a plurality of components having specific shapes and functions, which are manufactured separately and then assembled together.
  • a traditional brassiere can include a total number of elements varying from 30 to 45 (as shown in Figure 1).
  • These traditional products have several drawbacks. For instance, these products require long and complex manufacturing processes, with considerable manual interventions, and therefore lead to high costs.
  • knitted articles such as brassiere or the like having a simpler global structure than assembled brassieres as described above have been proposed and manufactured.
  • This type of brassieres can be manufactured with a smaller number of steps, most of which can be carried out by a knitting machine automatically.
  • articles that are similar to traditional brassieres can be manufactured, at least partially suitably shaped, and some of the desired properties can be given to the different portions of said brassieres.
  • One of the first examples of seamless brassieres i.e. basically without seams, can be ascribed to Tefron Ltd, a company that is particularly active in the manufacture of innovative knitted articles.
  • Tefron Ltd a company that is particularly active in the manufacture of innovative knitted articles.
  • Other examples of this type of products are disclosed e.g.
  • a further aim of the invention is to provide a process that enables to manufacture knitted articles, in particular brassieres, that are variously shaped according to specific needs so as to fit to the body of each user.
  • Another aim of the invention is to provide a process that enables to manufacture brassieres provided with areas having different properties and features and that are potentially also in large number and with a small size, apt to provide fitting, containment, compression and/or support effects on the different body areas, which are highly varied and adaptable to several different needs.
  • Another aim of the invention is to provide a process that enables to obtain shaped brassieres provided with differentiated areas, in an automatic manner by means of the knitting machine, thus significantly reducing the need to manual finishing cutting and seaming operations and minimizing the need for manual interventions by the operators.
  • Another aim of the invention is to provide a process that enables to simplify and speed up the process for manufacturing brassieres.
  • Another aim of the invention is to provide a process that enables to manufacture high-quality brassieres with a sophisticated design, having complex structures, shaped areas and differentiated properties, in a basically automatic manner.
  • Another aim of the invention is to provide a process that enables to ensure a high quality and accuracy in the manufacture of brassieres, e.g.
  • the invention also relates to a process wherein the whole brassiere, or at least the first portion and the second portion of fabric and/or a waste portion are partially produced using an alternating motion of the needle cylinder, and/or wherein the process further comprises a subsequent step of removal, by cutting, of a waste portion of the fabric produced by means of the alternating motion of the needles.
  • the invention also relates to a process wherein a third portion of central fabric is produced by means of at least one yarn having a higher stiffness than the corresponding yarn used for producing the fourth and fifth portion of fabric, the third portion of fabric being connected to the fourth and fifth portion of fabric by means of an inlay manufacturing techniques with different types of yarns.
  • the invention also relates to a process wherein the fourth and fifth portion of fabric are at least partially produced by means of at least one different yarn with respect to a first and a second portion of fabric to which they are connected by means of an inlay manufacturing technique.
  • the invention also relates to a process wherein the fourth and fifth portion of fabric are joined one to the other, at least in the manufacturing step, so as to define one portion of fabric in the tubular fabric produced by the knitting machine.
  • the invention also relates to a process wherein the third and/or fourth and the fifth and/or sixth and the seventh portion of fabric are produced by suitably alternating basic knitted courses, produced with selected needles in respective needle sectors of the cylinder, with reduced knitted courses, produced by means of an alternating motion of the needle cylinder and by operating only needles belonging to respective sub-groups of adjacent needles selected among the needles belonging to the respective needle sectors and by excluding from operation the remaining needles of the respective sectors outside the sub-groups of adjacent needles.
  • the invention also relates to a process wherein the third and/or fourth and the fifth and/or sixth and the seventh portion of fabric are produced by suitably alternating basic knitted courses, produced with selected needles in respective needle sectors of the cylinder, with different types of reduced knitted courses, produced by means of an alternating motion of the needle cylinder, having a different extension, by selecting during operation respective different sub-groups of adjacent needles comprising different numbers of needles and by excluding accordingly from operation the remaining needles outside these subgroups.
  • the invention also relates to a process further comprising the step of manufacturing an eighth portion of fabric and a ninth portion of fabric extending from the first and from the second portion of fabric, respectively, up to the fourth and fifth portion of fabric, respectively, so as to define shoulders straps of the brassiere.
  • the invention also relates to a knitted article, in particular a brassiere, characterized in that it is manufactured with a process according to any one of the preceding claims or aspects.
  • the invention also relates to a knitted article, in particular a brassiere, manufactured with a process on a circular knitting machine for weft-knitting, of the type operating also with alternating motion and having at least one needle cylinder and at least a yarn feed to the needles, wherein the brassiere comprises a first tubular fabric having at least the following portions: at least a first portion of fabric shaped as a brassiere cup, produced with at least a part of the needles belonging to a first sector of adjacent working needles of the cylinder; at least a second portion of fabric shaped as a brassiere cup, produced with at least a part of the needles belonging to a second sector of adjacent working needles of the cylinder; at least a third portion of central fabric of the brassiere, produced with at least a part of the needles belonging to a third sector, which is distinct or partially overlapping with respect to the first and second sector, of adjacent working needles of the cylinder and at least partially placed between the first portion and the second portion and having
  • the invention also relates to an operating software for a circular knitting machine for weft-knitting and of the type operating at least with alternating motion, configured for executing a process according to any one of the preceding claims and/or aspects and/or stored on a memory support that can be interfaced with an operation control device of a circular knitting machine for weft-knitting and of the type operating at least with alternating motion.
  • the invention also relates to an operation control device of a circular knitting machine for weft-knitting and of the type operating at least with alternating motion, wherein the control device is configured for executing a process according to any one of the claims and/or preceding aspects.
  • the invention also relates to a circular knitting machine for weft- knitting and of the type operating with at least alternating motion, comprising at least one operation control device of the knitting machine configured for executing a process according to any one of the preceding claims and/or aspects.
  • Figure 1 schematically shows an exploded view of a brassiere according to a known solution, made up of a plurality of components to be assembled;
  • Figure 2 shows a manufacturing diagram of a knitted article, in particular a brassiere having only one layer of fabric, which can be manufactured with a process according to an embodiment of the invention
  • Figure 3 shows another manufacturing diagram of a knitted article, in particular a brassiere having a double-gauze of fabric, which can be manufactured with a process according to an embodiment of the invention
  • Figure 4 shows a double-gauze tubular fabric manufactured by means of a process according to an embodiment of the invention, which is then folded on itself;
  • Figure 5 shows a brassiere manufactured with some additional operations starting from the tubular fabric of Figure 4;
  • Figure 6 is a front view of the brassiere of Figure 5 once worn
  • Figure 7 is a side view of the brassiere of Figure 5 once worn
  • Figure 8 is a rear view of the brassiere of Figure 5 once worn.
  • Figure 1 shows an exploded view of a brassiere 30 according to a solution belonging to the prior art, made up of a plurality of components to be assembled, among which two symmetrical cups 2, one or two supporting underwires 3 inserted between the cups and the lining to give the brassiere 30 stiffness and support, two elastic lateral bands 4, a central sector 5, a buckle 6 for closing the brassiere 30, two shoulder straps 7, an edge or elastic strip 8 and an inner lining 9.
  • a process for manufacturing a knitted item, in particular a brassiere 1 on a circular knitting machine for weft- knitting, of the type operating at least with alternating motion, and preferably also with continuous motion, and having at least one needle cylinder and at least one yarn feed to the needles.
  • the knitting machine comprises at least a supporting structure, a needle cylinder turnably mounted in the supporting structure, and a plurality of needles supported by the needle cylinder and moving parallel to an axis of rotation of the needle cylinder so as to manufacture a weft-knitted fabric or knitted article.
  • the wording "circular knitting machine for weft-knitting” means a circular knitting machine designed for the manufacture of knitted, seamless and/or hosiery items, having at least one feed or a plurality of feeds or feeding points and corresponding stitch adjusting cams or stitch cams.
  • the stitch cams can e.g. be automatically adjustable in an individual fashion, i.e. each cam independently from the other in each predefined knitting area of a knitted article or item, and can also be contextually adjusted, i.e. all the cams simultaneously in the same fashion.
  • These knitting machines can be e.g. of single jersey or double jersey type (i.e. with needle dial or with double cylinder). The knitting machine will not described in further detail since it is of per se known type.
  • a process according to the invention comprises at least the steps of manufacturing the following portions of a first tubular fabric 10: at least a first portion 1 1 of fabric shaped as a brassiere 1 cup, produced with at least a part of the needles belonging to a first sector of adjacent working needles of the cylinder; at least a second portion 12 of fabric shaped as a brassiere 1 cup, produced with at least a part of the needles belonging to a second sector of adjacent working needles of the cylinder; at least a third portion 13 of central fabric of the brassiere 1 , produced with at least a part of the needles belonging to a third sector, which is distinct or partially overlapping with respect to the first and second sector, of adjacent working needles of the cylinder and at least partially placed between the first portion 11 and the second portion 12 and having
  • the aforesaid portions of fabric 11 , 12, 13, 14, 15 are produced and reciprocally connected automatically by the knitting machine in a seamless fashion, i.e. without seams, during the manufacture of the first tubular fabric 10.
  • at least a part of the first portion 11 of fabric and of the second portion 12 of fabric and/or of the third portion 13 of fabric is manufactured by means of an alternating motion of the needle cylinder.
  • the whole knitted article, or at least the first and the second and/or the third and/or the fourth and the fifth portion 15 of fabric are wholly produced using an alternating motion of the needle cylinder.
  • the whole knitted article, or at least the first and second portion 12 of fabric are partially produced using s continuous motion of the needle cylinder.
  • the process may further comprise the step of successive removal, by cutting, of a waste portion 19 of the fabric produced by means of the continuous or alternating motion of the needles.
  • the process further comprises the step of varying the overall extension of the first needle sector and of the second needle sector during the production of the first portion 11 of fabric and of the second portion 12 of fabric so as to define a suitable cup shape of the brassiere.
  • the process further comprises the step of varying the overall extension of the third needle sector during the production of the third portion 13 of fabric so as to define a suitable shape of a central portion of the brassiere 1.
  • the process further comprises the step of varying the overall extension of respective needle sectors used for manufacturing the fourth and the fifth portion 15 of fabric so as to define a suitable shape of the lateral bands of the brassiere.
  • the first and the second portion 12 of fabric have at least one area having a three-dimensional shape obtained by alternating, selectively and according to a predefined sequence, basic knitted courses, produced with needles selected from among the needles of the first and the second sector of cylinder needles, respectively, with reduced knitted courses, produced by an alternating motion of the needle cylinder and bringing into work operation only needles belonging to a first sub-group of adjacent needles selected from among the needles belonging to the first sector of needles and to a second sub-group of adjacent needles selected from among the needles belonging to the second sector of needles, respectively, and excluding from work operation the remaining needles of the first and second sector not included in the first and second sub-group of adjacent needles,
  • the reduced knitted courses are produced in respective central areas of the first and of the second portion 12 of fabric, excluding from work operation the needles arranged in respective lateral areas of the first and second sector of needles.
  • the three-dimensional shape of the first and of the second portion 12 of fabric is obtained by producing, by an alternating motion of the needle cylinder, different types of reduced courses having a different extension, by selecting during work operation respective different sub-groups of adjacent needles, comprising a different number of needles, of the first and second sector not included in these subgroups.
  • the three-dimensional shape of the first and second portion 12 of fabric is obtained, in at least one area of the first and second portion 12 of fabric, by excluding from work operation and then re-introducing into work operation the remaining needles of the first and of the second sector progressively, by excluding and re-introducing one or more needles at a time on one or more successive courses, according to a predefined sequence.
  • at least one knitted area of the first and second portion 12 of fabric is produced by selectively and progressively increasing or reducing the extension of the knitted courses produced so as to suitably shape this knitted area.
  • the third portion 13 of fabric is connected at least to the first and to the second portion 12 of fabric by means of an inlay operating technique between yarns of different type.
  • the third portion 13 of central fabric is produced by at least an additional yarn with respect to the yarns used for the production of the first and of the second portion 12 of fabric.
  • the third portion 13 of central fabric is manufactured by means of at least an additional yarn to the yarns used for the production of the first and of the second portion 12 of fabric.
  • the third portion 13 of central portion is produced by means of at least one yarn having a higher stiffness with respect to the corresponding yarn used for the production of the first and of the second portion 12 of fabric.
  • the third portion 13 of central fabric is produced by using stitches and knitted structures that are able to give a higher stiffness to the fabric with respect to the fabric of the first and of the second portion 12 of fabric and/or of the fourth and of the fifth portion 15 of fabric.
  • the process further comprises the step of producing a sixth portion 16 of fabric and a seventh portion 17 of fabric arranged at least inferiorly to the first portion 11 and to the second portion 12 of fabric, respectively, the sixth and the seventh portion of fabric being connected seamlessly and/or by means of an inlay operating technique at least to some of the aforesaid portions of fabric, and being produced at least partially with an alternating motion of the needle cylinder and by means of a suitable variation of the number of courses produced with respect to the adjacent areas, in such a way as to suitably shape the sixth and the seventh portion of fabric and/or so as to define respective lower sides having a convex shape.
  • At least one knitted area of the sixth and of the seventh portion of fabric is produced by selectively and progressively increasing or reducing the extension of the knitted courses produced so as to suitably shape this knitted area.
  • the third portion 13 of fabric is at least partly produced by an alternating motion of the needle cylinder and by selective reduction of the number of courses produced with respect to adjacent areas of fabric and/or with respect to corresponding knitted areas of the first and of the second portion 12 of fabric and/or of the fourth and of the fifth portion 15 of fabric, and/or of the sixth and of the seventh portion of fabric, so as to suitably shape the third portion 13 of fabric and/or define a lower side of the third portion 13 of fabric having a concave shape.
  • At least a knitted area of the third portion 13 of fabric is produced by selectively and progressively increasing or reducing the extension of the knitted courses produced for suitably shaping this knitted area.
  • the fourth and fifth portion 15 of fabric are produced at least partially by an alternating motion of the needle cylinder and by selective reduction of the number of courses produced with respect to the adjacent areas, or with respect at least to the first and to the second portion 12 of fabric, such as to suitably shape the fourth and the fifth portion 15 of fabric and define respective lower sides of a suitable shape.
  • the process also comprises the step of producing a second tubular fabric 100 joined seamlessly to the first tubular fabric 10 and apt to define a second layer of fabric of the brassiere 1 that can be folded onto the first tubular fabric 10 so as to define a double-gauze brassiere 1.
  • the second tubular fabric 100 comprises at least some additional portions of fabric corresponding and arranged symmetrically with respect to the portions of fabric of the first tubular fabric 10.
  • the additional portions of fabric exhibit a same shape as the portions of fabric of the first tubular fabric 10.
  • the additional portions of fabric are symmetrically identical with respect to the portions of fabric of the first tubular fabric 10. In one aspect, at least some of the additional portions of fabric are manufactured with at least a different yarn and/or at least a different knitted structure with respect to corresponding portions of fabric of the first tubular fabric 10.
  • the process also comprises the step of defining a folding portion 18 placed between the first tubular fabric 10 and the second tubular fabric 100, the folding portion 18 being a slimmed portion made with a smaller number of yarns or with a single yarn with smaller cross section with respect to the adjacent portions 13, 14, 15, such as to define a folding line enabling the overlapping of the first tubular fabric 10 and of the second tubular fabric 100 so as to define a double-gauze brassiere without an edge in relief having an increased thickness.
  • at least one knitted area adjacent to the folding portion 18 is produced by selectively and progressively increasing or reducing the extension of the knitted courses produced for suitably shaping this knitted area and therefore the folding area.
  • the folding area is produced with a predetermined shape differing from a circular shape. In one aspect, the folding area extends on the whole circular cross-section extension of the first tubular fabric 10. In one aspect, the folding area extends only on a circular sector of the circular cross- section extension of the first tubular fabric 10.
  • the process also comprises the step of manufacturing, at least on respective lower and/or lateral areas of the first and of the second portion 12 of fabric of the first tubular fabric 10 and/or at least on respective lower and/or lateral areas of the first and of the second portion 12 of additional fabric of the second tubular fabric 100, knitted structures in relief, with or without using suitable yarns with increased size, apt to define knitted areas in relief having an increased thickness with respect to adjacent areas.
  • these knitted structures in relief can include sponge-like and plush-like structures, spaced fabric structures, float stitches, etc.
  • these knitted areas in relief are defined on both the first and on the second area of the first tubular fabric 10 and on the first and on the second zone of the second fabric 100. In one aspect, the knitted areas in relief are defined both on the first and on the second area of the first tubular fabric 10 and on the first and on the second area of the second fabric 100 on a same side of the fabric and such as to remain enclosed between the first tubular fabric 10 and the second tubular fabric 100 following a folding of the first fabric on the second fabric 100. In one aspect, the knitted areas in relief are suitably graduated with a variable height or thickness, so as to define an increasing thickness towards a lower and/or lateral, either internal and/or external, area of the first and of the second portion 12 of fabric.
  • Figure 3 represents a manufacturing diagram of the knitted article, listing the types of manufacturing operations performed by the cylinder needles (the needles correspond to the abscissae of the figure) in each manufacturing course (the courses correspond to the ordinates of the figure).
  • the brassiere 1 is wholly produced with the alternating motion of the needle cylinder in a weft-knitting machine.
  • the brassiere 1 is made with double-gauze, one consisting of the lower half, or first tubular fabric 10, of the article shown in the figure, and one consisting of the upper half, or second tubular fabric 100, which are then fooled onto one another on the folding portion 18 and joined, e.g. by seaming only in the upper part of the brassiere 1.
  • the shoulder straps 22 are not produced automatically and will then be attached to the brassiere thus manufactured.
  • the brassiere 1 is produced with adjacent areas of elastic fabric connected to areas of fabric with a high stiffness.
  • the cylinder needles are arranged starting from the right (i.e. with the first needle on the far right side of the picture) to the left (i.e.
  • the area referred to in Figure 3 with the numeral 20 is designed to be the contour 20, and therefore the edge or profile, delimiting the brassiere 1 in its upper part.
  • a knitted structure having in the example shown a selection of 1x1 needles (i.e. a working needle and a non-working needle) on the odd knitted courses, whereas on the even knitted courses plain knitted fabric (i.e. with all the needles working) is produced.
  • the type of selection applies can be varied according to the result desired in this area;
  • the areas referred to with the numeral 19 correspond to the waste portion 19 manufactured and then cut. In these areas it is in fact possible to operate the concerned needles producing knitted fabric to be removed afterwards, or as an alternative it is possible to keep the needles of the area non-working without producing knitted fabric, thanks to the alternating motion of the cylinder. If knitted fabric is produced, in these areas are manufactured knitted courses with selections of working, non-working and/or float-stitch needles, so as to minimize the use of yarn in the waste area which will then be cut. If, on the contrary, one decides to keep the needles non-working without producing knitted fabric, no yarn waste will occur in this area.
  • waste fabric can be useful for simplifying the handling of the product after manufacturing the same;
  • the areas referred to with the numerals 11 a, 11 b, 11c, 12a, 12b, 12c are designed to define corresponding parts of the first portion 11 of fabric and of the second portion 12 of fabric and thus of the brassiere cups, and exhibit in the example shown a width of 300 needles in the wider area.
  • 11 a and 12a refer to the knitted areas comprising the upper part of the brassiere cups, each consisting of about 200 knitted courses.
  • 11 b and 12b designate the central parts of the brassiere cups, on which a controlled three-dimensional increase of the fabric is carried out using the methods disclosed in the present text.
  • 11c and 12c designate lower areas of the brassiere cups, which can be produced with about 200 knitted courses each.
  • these areas 11 a, 11 b, 11c, 12a, 12b, 12c in the example shown plain knitted fabric is produced and the yarns used, either in different colors or individually, have suitable features enabling the fabric to surround and contain the breast;
  • the areas referred to with the numerals 21 a and 21 b correspond to areas in which the needles are brought to a non-working condition, with the knitting stitch kept inside the needle head. Therefore, in these areas the needles do not form knitted fabric but their exclusion from the manufacturing process enables indeed a controlled fabric growth in the areas referred to with 11 b, 12b and determine the desired three- dimensional shape.
  • These areas 21 a, 21 b are therefore represented in the manufacturing diagram of Figure 3 so as to indicate that in the corresponding courses (lying on the ordinates) the corresponding needles (lying on the abscissae) do not produce any knitted fabric, but these areas 21 a, 21 b are not areas of fabric in the knitted article.
  • the three-dimensional shape of the outer part of the cup; (determined by the shape of the areas referred to with 21 a and comprised between cup and lateral bands) can be the same or different with respect to the three-dimensional shape of the inner part of the cup (determined by the shape of the area referred to with 21 b and comprised between the cups).
  • the area 21 a in its maximum width includes in the example 430 needles for 180 shots or cylinder rotations (90 counter-clockwise and 90 clockwise).
  • the area 21 b in its maximum width includes in the example 285 needles for 140 shots or cylinder rotations (70 counter-clockwise and 70 clockwise);
  • the areas referred to with the numerals 13a, 13b, 13c correspond to the central parts between the cups of the brassiere and to the parts arranged under the brassiere cup and thus define the third portion 13 of central fabric of the brassiere. These areas are manufactured with a high stiffness. In the area referred to with 13a is worked 25% less of the knitted courses with respect to the adjacent areas (14, 15), in which all knitted courses are worked. In the area 13b is worked 50% less of the knitted courses with respect to the adjacent area (14, 15), in which all knitted courses are worked. In the area 13c is worked 75% less of the knitted courses with respect to the adjacent area (14, 15 and/or 11c, 12c)), in which all knitted courses are worked.
  • the areas 13a, 13b, 13c are the stiff part of the brassiere produced with a "parallel yarn" which is a stiff yarn. Moreover, as indicated, in this area less knitted courses are produced with respect to the adjacent areas.
  • the knitted courses produced have a knitted structure with the selection of working and non-working needles configured so as to increase the stiffness in the area and shape the profile in the lower part of the brassiere under the cups;
  • the areas referred to with the numerals 16 and 17 are areas with knitted structure in selection configured so as to contour and profile the different areas and can correspond to the sixth portion 16 of fabric and to the seventh portion 17 of fabric.
  • these areas is manufactured a knitted structure with 1x1 needle selection (i.e. an odd needle working and an even needle not working) on the odd knitted courses, whereas on the even knitted courses the selection is inverted to 1x1 A (i.e. alternated to 1x1 , thus with an odd needle not working and an even needle working).
  • these areas are manufactured with the same yarn or yarns used for at least some of the adjacent areas, in particular used for the first portion 11 of fabric and the second portion 12 of fabric and/or the fourth portion 14 and the fifth portion 15 of fabric. These areas can be used to improve the aesthetic appearance of the brassiere 1 creating particular knitting effects with suitable needle selections;
  • the areas referred to with the numerals 14, 15 correspond to the fourth portion 14 of fabric and to the fifth portion 15 of fabric, respectively, forming the lateral bands of the brassiere 1 and preferably made of elastic fabric. In these areas it is possible to decide whether to produce plain fabric or knitted structures with selection of working, non-working and/or float-stitch needles as required. In these areas of the brassiere, elasto- meric yarns of different colors with other yarns, selected according to the features to be obtained in the brassiere;
  • the area referred to with the numeral 18 is a part designed to produce the slimmed folding portion 18, configured so as to define a folding line of the two fabric (inner and outer) onto one another.
  • This area can be produced with yarn counts having a lower thickness/size than those used in the other areas of the brassiere, so as to simplify and flatten the folding area of the two fabric; the knitted areas produced after the area 18 and arranged in the upper half of Figure 3 can be identical or different with respect to the areas produced before the area 18 and thus arranged in the lower half of Figure 3.
  • these areas of the second tubular fabric 100 have been designated with numerals corresponding to those of the areas of the first tubular fabric 10, though adding 100 to each numeral (therefore the area corresponding to the area 1 1 is referred to with the numeral 11 1 and so on).
  • the lower half of the article, corresponding to the first tubular fabric 10, and the upper half, corresponding to the second tubular fabric 100 designed to be one the inner fabric and one the outer fabric of the double-layer brassiere, respectively, are made identical, but according to an aspect of the invention it is possible to vary the number of areas, their shapes or the type of knitting stitch for each area, as required.
  • first tubular fabric 10 and the second tubular fabric 100 are symmetrical, with portions of fabric having a same shape and a same arrangement, with respect to a line defined by the folding portion 18.
  • Figure 4 shows a tubular, double-gauze fabric made with a process according to the embodiment of the invention disclosed above, wherein the double-gauze have been folded and superposed one onto the other.
  • Figure 5 shows the brassiere 1 made starting from the tubular fabric of Figure 4 with few finishing operations, including e.g.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé pour fabriquer un article tricoté, en particulier un soutien-gorge (1), sur un métier à tricoter circulaire pour tricot trame, du type fonctionnant au moins avec un mouvement alternatif, le procédé comprenant au moins les étapes consistant à produire les parties suivantes d'un premier tissu tubulaire (10) : au moins une première partie (11) de tissu en forme de bonnet du soutien-gorge (1) ; au moins une deuxième partie (12) de tissu en forme de bonnet du soutien-gorge (1) ; au moins une troisième partie (13) de tissu central du soutien-gorge (1) ; au moins une quatrième partie (14) de tissu définissant une première bande latérale du soutien-gorge (1) ; au moins une cinquième partie (15) de tissu définissant une seconde bande latérale du soutien-gorge (1) ; lesdites parties de tissu mentionnées ci-dessus sont produites et reliées mutuellement et automatiquement par la machine à tricoter, sans couture, pendant la production du premier tissu tubulaire (10), et au moins une partie de la première partie (11) de tissu et de la deuxième partie (12) de tissu, et/ou de la troisième partie (13) de tissu, est produite au moyen d'un mouvement alternatif du cylindre à aiguilles.
PCT/IB2015/051898 2014-03-20 2015-03-16 Procédé de réalisation d'article tricoté, en particulier un soutien-gorge, sur un métier à tricoter circulaire pour tricot trame WO2015140687A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITBS20140065 2014-03-20
ITBS2014A000065 2014-03-20

Publications (1)

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WO2015140687A1 true WO2015140687A1 (fr) 2015-09-24

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3537279A (en) * 1967-06-28 1970-11-03 Pilot Res Corp Knit seamless brassiere and method of forming same
US5553468A (en) 1994-05-03 1996-09-10 Alba-Waldensian, Inc. Brassiere and method of making same
US6125664A (en) 1999-04-28 2000-10-03 Browder, Jr.; George Alexander Graham Brassiere, brassiere blank and methods of making same
US6287168B1 (en) 2000-06-14 2001-09-11 Alba-Waldensian, Inc. Substantially seamless brassiere, and blank and method for making same
WO2005003419A1 (fr) 2003-07-03 2005-01-13 Santoni, S.P.A. Procede de production de dessins a intarsia a maille a l'aide d'un metier circulaire
WO2005010259A1 (fr) * 2003-07-03 2005-02-03 Santoni S.P.A. Procede de fabrication d'articles tricotes permettant d'obtenir des vetements, par exemple des justaucorsps, des brassieres, des maillots de corps, des soutiens-gorges, des slips ou autres articles semblables, sans coutures laterales, a l'aide d'une machine a tricoter

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3537279A (en) * 1967-06-28 1970-11-03 Pilot Res Corp Knit seamless brassiere and method of forming same
US5553468A (en) 1994-05-03 1996-09-10 Alba-Waldensian, Inc. Brassiere and method of making same
US6125664A (en) 1999-04-28 2000-10-03 Browder, Jr.; George Alexander Graham Brassiere, brassiere blank and methods of making same
US6287168B1 (en) 2000-06-14 2001-09-11 Alba-Waldensian, Inc. Substantially seamless brassiere, and blank and method for making same
WO2005003419A1 (fr) 2003-07-03 2005-01-13 Santoni, S.P.A. Procede de production de dessins a intarsia a maille a l'aide d'un metier circulaire
WO2005010259A1 (fr) * 2003-07-03 2005-02-03 Santoni S.P.A. Procede de fabrication d'articles tricotes permettant d'obtenir des vetements, par exemple des justaucorsps, des brassieres, des maillots de corps, des soutiens-gorges, des slips ou autres articles semblables, sans coutures laterales, a l'aide d'une machine a tricoter

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