WO2015091336A1 - Composition riche en substances grasses comprenant du peroxyde d'hydrogène, un persel et des tensioactifs oxyéthyléniques - Google Patents

Composition riche en substances grasses comprenant du peroxyde d'hydrogène, un persel et des tensioactifs oxyéthyléniques Download PDF

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WO2015091336A1
WO2015091336A1 PCT/EP2014/077721 EP2014077721W WO2015091336A1 WO 2015091336 A1 WO2015091336 A1 WO 2015091336A1 EP 2014077721 W EP2014077721 W EP 2014077721W WO 2015091336 A1 WO2015091336 A1 WO 2015091336A1
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weight
composition
oxyethylenated
ionic surfactant
units
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PCT/EP2014/077721
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English (en)
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Estelle MILLET
Géraldine Fack
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the subject of the present invention is a composition for dyeing or lightening human keratin fibres, comprising a high content of fatty substances, a mixture of specific oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactants, a basifying agent, a persalt and hydrogen peroxide.
  • the invention also relates to a dyeing process using said composition, and to multicompartment devices.
  • oxidation dyeing or permanent dyeing. More particularly, this form of dyeing uses one or more oxidation dyes, usually one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
  • oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give access to coloured entities.
  • the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are often varied by combining them with one or more couplers, these couplers being chosen in particular from aromatic meia-diamines, meia-aminophenols, meia-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
  • direct dyes which are coloured and colouring molecules having an affinity for the fibres.
  • the direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes. The presence of such compounds enables the colouration obtained to be further enriched with tints or enables the chromaticity of the colouration obtained to be increased.
  • Oxidation dyeing processes thus consist in using, with these dyeing compositions, a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, generally hydrogen peroxide, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.
  • This oxidizing agent is, inter alia, to reveal the colouration, via an oxidative condensation reaction between the oxidation dyes.
  • Oxidation dyeing must moreover satisfy a certain number of requirements. Thus, it must be free of toxicological drawbacks, it must enable shades to be obtained in the desired intensity and it must show good resistance to external attacking factors such as light, bad weather, washing, permanent waving, perspiration and rubbing.
  • the dyes must also be able to cover white hair and, finally, they must be as unselective as possible, i.e. they must produce the smallest possible colour differences along the same keratin fibre, which generally comprises areas that are differently sensitized (i.e. damaged) from its end to its root.
  • compositions obtained must also have good mixing and application properties, and in particular good rheological properties so as not to run down the face, onto the scalp or beyond the areas that it is proposed to dye, when they are applied.
  • aqueous compositions comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.
  • This oxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to more or less pronounced lightening of the fibres.
  • the aim of the present invention is to obtain novel compositions for the dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres, which do not have the drawbacks of the prior art. More particularly, the aim of the present invention is to obtain novel dyeing and/or lightening compositions which are very effective in terms of colouration, in particular in terms of coverage of white hairs, of level of power or strength of colouration, of selectivity, and of quality of the uniformity of the dyeing, and are easy to mix and to apply, which limits the olfactory problems on application while at the same time detrimentally modifying the keratin fibres as little as possible.
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • OE non-ionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units
  • the total amount of fatty substances in the composition being greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the invention also relates to a process for dyeing or lightening human keratin fibres, comprising the application of the abovementioned composition to the keratin fibres.
  • a subject of the invention is likewise a three-compartment device comprising:
  • composition (A) comprising:
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • composition (B) comprising at least hydrogen peroxide and preferably at least one fatty substance and
  • composition (C) comprising at least one persalt, the total amount of fatty substances in the ready-to-use composition resulting from mixing the compositions (A)+(B)+(C) being greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said mixture composition.
  • the human keratin fibres treated by means of the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.
  • the dyeing and the lightening of the keratin fibres can be simultaneous. Fatty substances
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, the total amount of fatty substances representing at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 55% by weight, preferably greater than 60% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • fatty substance is intended to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1 % and even more preferentially less than 0.1 %). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • o/T is intended to mean a "fatty substance” that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • non-silicone o/T is intended to mean an oil not containing any silicon atoms (Si) and the term "silicone o/T is intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom.
  • the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -Ci 6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, non- silicone waxes other than solid fatty alcohols and than solid synthetic esters, and silicones, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
  • C 6 -Ci 6 lower alkanes they are linear or branched, or possibly cyclic.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
  • the triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, more particularly from those present in plant oils, for instance sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil or synthetic caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
  • the fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acids that may be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. These fatty acids are, in the composition of the invention, not salified with organic or inorganic bases, so as not to give rise to soaps.
  • esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above and plant waxes mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci-C 2 6 or branched C 3 -C 2 6 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci-C 2 6 or branched C 3 -C 2 6 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; Ci 2 -Ci 5 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate
  • esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 - C 2 6 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobuty
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 - C 30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 - C 30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters are intended to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • sucrose or saccharose
  • glucose or galactose
  • ribose or fucose
  • maltose fructose
  • mannose mannose
  • arabinose xylose
  • lactose and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or - oleate/stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
  • esters or mixtures of esters of sugar of fatty acid examples include:
  • sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 % diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
  • Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester, triester and polyester;
  • sucrose monodipalmitostearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft ® PSE.
  • non-silicone wax(es) other than solid fatty alcohols and solid synthetic esters are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that may be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as the wax sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
  • the silicones that may be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5x 10 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, and preferably 1 x10 "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione ® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
  • linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x10 "6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. Use is preferably made of nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to Standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • the silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
  • CTFA hydroxy-terminated polydimethylsiloxane or dimethiconol
  • CFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane
  • product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x10 "6 m 2 /s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
  • R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • R denotes a C C 4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
  • organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 x10 "5 to 5x10 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • silicones of the PK series from Bayer such as the product PK20;
  • silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer such as the products PN1000 and
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
  • C 2 4 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 by the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci 2 )alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
  • substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
  • the substituted amino groups are, in particular, CrC 4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax ® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • the fatty substance(s) does (do) not comprise any C 2 -C 3 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, they did not contain any glycerolated units. More particularly, the fatty substances are other than fatty acids.
  • the fatty substances are chosen from compounds that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty substance is a compound that is liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, or oil.
  • the fatty substances are not silicone-based.
  • the fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -Ci 6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that are liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, or mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 50% of fatty substances and preferably at least 50% of oils.
  • the composition according to the invention more particularly has a fatty substance content ranging from 50% to 80% by weight, better still from 50% to 70% by weight, and even better still from 52% to 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and quite particularly an oil content ranging from 50% to 80% by weight, better still from 50% to 70% by weight, and even better still from 52% to 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxyethylenated (OE) non-ionic surfactant comprising a number of OE units ranging from 1 to 9 and at least one oxyethylenated (OE) non-ionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units.
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • the weight ratio in the composition of the invention of the amount of oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant(s) comprising at least 10 OE units to the amount of oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant(s) comprising a number of OE units ranging from 1 to 9, is greater than or equal to 1 , preferably greater than or equal to 2.
  • This weight ratio can range, for example, from 1 to 25, better still from 2 to 15 and even better still from 3 to 10.
  • OE oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactants comprising a number of OE units ranging from 1 to 9 and the oxyethylenated (OE) non-ionic surfactants comprising at least 10 OE units can be chosen from the following categories:
  • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 3 o acids and of polyethylene glycols • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 3 o acids and of polyethylene glycols,
  • the oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units and the oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OE units are chosen from oxyethylenated derivatives of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear, C 8 -C 3 o, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohols, for instance cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleocetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OE units
  • Emulgin 05 (Cognis) [oleocetyl alcohol 5 OE].
  • the content of oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant(s) comprising from 1 to 9 OE units in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.25% to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactants comprising at least 10 OE units used in the invention may in particular have a number of oxyethylene groups ranging from 10 to 50, preferably from 15 to 30.
  • the oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactants comprising at least 10 OE units used in the invention comprise at least 15 oxyethylene groups.
  • oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OE units
  • use is in particular made of the products of addition of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, in particular those comprising from 10 to 20 oxyethylene groups, for instance the products sold under the references Brij 96V (Oleth-10) and Brij 98V (Oleth-20) by the company Croda.
  • the content of oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactants comprising at least 10 oxyalkylene groups in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactants in the composition is preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may range from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 7% by weight and even better still from 2% to 6% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more basifying agents.
  • the basifying agent may be inorganic or organic or hybrid.
  • the inorganic basifying agent(s) is (are) preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) is (are) preferably chosen from organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that it is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) is (are) chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (A1 ) below:
  • W is a Ci-C 6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C 6 alkyl radical
  • Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 6 alkyl, CrC 6 hydroxyalkyl or CrC 6 aminoalkyl radical.
  • amines that may be mentioned include 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 1 ,3- diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
  • alkanolamine is intended to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC 8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
  • Alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising from one to three identical or different CrC 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
  • amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function more particularly chosen from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid and phosphoric acid functions.
  • the amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
  • amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
  • the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
  • Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (A2) below:
  • R denotes a roup chosen from:
  • the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made in particular of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
  • amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of carnosine, anserine and balenine.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
  • amines of this type that may be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made in particular of creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4- guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
  • the organic amine present in the dyeing and/or lightening agent of the invention is an alkanolamine.
  • the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
  • Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may in particular be used.
  • the content of basifying agent(s) ranges from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • composition of the invention preferably contains one or more alkanolamines and/or one or more basic amino acids.
  • the composition comprises monoethanolamine.
  • the amount of basifying agent(s) other than the aqueous ammonia is greater than that of aqueous ammonia (expressed as NH 3 ).
  • the composition does not comprise aqueous ammonia.
  • the ready-to-use composition according to the invention comprises, as oxidising agent, hydrogen peroxide in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially from 1 % to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the persalts can be chosen from alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal persulfates, perborates and percarbonates.
  • the persalts are chosen from persulfate(s) such as sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate or ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the persalt content can range from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more colouring agents chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.
  • the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
  • para-phenylenediamines examples that may be mentioned include para- phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl- para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ -diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para- phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(p-hydroxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(p-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N- bis(p-hydroxyethyl)
  • para-phenylenediamine para-phenylenediamine, para- tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-p-hydroxyethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-p-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para- phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(p-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para- phenylenediamine and 2-p-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
  • bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines examples that may be mentioned include N,N'-bis(p-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(p- hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(p-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4- aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4- methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'- methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3
  • para-aminophenols examples that may be mentioned include para- aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3- chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(p-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2- fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
  • ortho-aminophenols examples that may be mentioned include 2- aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2- aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof.
  • heterocyclic bases examples that may be mentioned include pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
  • pyridine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5- diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4- diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.
  • Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the addition salts thereof, described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- acetylaminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1 ,5- a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2- methoxypyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-7- yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3- aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyrid-2- yl)methanol, 3,
  • pyrimidine derivatives mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571 , JP 05-63124 and EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetra-amino- pyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diamino-pyrimidine, 2,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
  • Use will preferably be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and more preferentially still of 4,5-diamino-1 -(p-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a salt thereof.
  • Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N- dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3- diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7- dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro- 1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H- pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol-1 -one, 4,5-diamino-1
  • Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one and/or a salt thereof.
  • Heterocyclic bases that will preferentially be used include 4,5-diamino-1 -(p- hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one and/or 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1 ,5-a]pyridin-2-yloxy)ethanol and/or a salt thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing of keratin fibres.
  • couplers mention may be made in particular of meta- phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2- methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1 -(3- hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(3-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methoxybenzene, 1 ,3- diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1 - dimethylaminobenzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(p-hydroxyethyl)amino-2- methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, sesamol, 1-3-hydroxyethylamino-3,4- methylenedioxybenzene, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-1 -naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole
  • addition salts of the oxidation bases and of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
  • an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
  • the oxidation base(s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • coupler(s), if it (they) is (are) present each advantageously represent from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one oxidation base and at least one coupler.
  • the direct dyes may be synthetic or natural dyes, chosen from ionic or non-ionic species, preferably cationic or non-ionic species.
  • Suitable direct dyes include azo direct dyes; methine direct dyes; carbonyl direct dyes; azine direct dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl direct dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane direct dyes; porphyrin direct dyes; phthalocyanine direct dyes, and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins.
  • Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions comprising these natural dyes and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts.
  • the direct dye(s) represent more particularly from 0.0001 % to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise water.
  • the composition has a water content ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight and even more particularly from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise one or more organic water- soluble solvents.
  • water-soluble is intended to mean an organic solvent which has a solubility in water greater than or equal to 5% by weight at ordinary temperature (25° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1 ,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; glycerol; polyols or polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol; and also di
  • the water-soluble organic solvents when they are present, generally represent between 1 % and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and preferably between 5% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more acidifying agents.
  • acidifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of inorganic or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
  • the composition of the invention comprises one or more optionally oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 fatty acid amides.
  • These amides may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10%, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 8% and better still from 1 % to 5% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer.
  • cationic polymer denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.
  • the cationic polymer present in the composition according to the invention is a linear, random, graft or block homopolymer or copolymer and comprises at least one cationic group and/or group that can be ionized into a cationic group chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that form part of the main polymer chain or that are borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
  • the cationic charge density of the cationic polymers according to the invention is greater than 1 meq/g, better still greater than or equal to 4 meq/g.
  • This charge density is determined by the Kjeldahl method. It may also be calculated from the chemical nature of the polymer.
  • the cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular weight of between 500 and 5 ⁇ 10 6 approximately, and preferably between 10 3 and 3 ⁇ 10 6 .
  • cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type.
  • cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of the following polymers, alone or as a blend:
  • R 3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci-C 6 and preferably C 2 -C 3 alkyl group or a Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl group;
  • R 4 , R 5 and R 6 which may be identical or different, represent a Ci-Ci 8 alkyl group or a benzyl radical, and preferably a Ci-C 6 alkyl group;
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a Ci-C 6 alkyl group, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the polymers of family (1 ) can also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (CiC 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937.
  • These polymers are described in FR 2 077 143 and FR 2 393 573, - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
  • the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyl tri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names of Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyi celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride).
  • Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Meyhall.
  • Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.
  • Such polymers are described, in particular, in FR 2 162 025 and FR 2 280 361 .
  • Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis- unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis- unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides may
  • Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical is C1-C4 and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in FR 1 583 363.
  • the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8:1 and 1 .4:1 ; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5:1 and 1 .8:1.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in US 3 227 615 and US 2 961 347.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57, PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules.
  • Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (V) or (VI):
  • Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R 7 and R 8 independently of each other, denote a Ci-C 8 alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group is Ci-C 5 , an amidoalkyl group in which the alkyl is Ci-C 4
  • R 7 and R 8 can also denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl
  • R 7 and R 8 independently of each other, preferably denote a C1 -C4 alkyl group
  • Y " is an organic or inorganic anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • the cyclopolymers preferably comprise at least one unit of formula (V).
  • copolymers they also comprise an acrylamide monomer.
  • R 10 , Ri i , Ri2 and Ri 3 which may be identical or different, represent Ci-C 2 o aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in which the alkyl radical is Ci-C 4 , or alternatively Rio, Rn , R12 and R13, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R10, Rn , R12 and R-I3 represent a linear or branched Ci-C 6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-0-Ri 4 -D or -CO-N H-R 14 -D where Ri 4 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; A-i and B-i represent C 2 -C 2 o polymethylene groups which may be linear or branched, saturated
  • X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid
  • A-i , R-io and Ri 2 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
  • A-i denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical
  • D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -0-Z-0-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH 2 -CH 2 -0) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - and -[CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-0] y -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers have a number-average molecular weight generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
  • Polymers of this type are described in particular in FR 2 320 330, FR 2 270 846, FR 2 316 271 , FR 2 336 434, FR 2 413 907, US 2 273 780, US 2 375 853, US
  • Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in US 4 157 388, US 4 702 906 and US 4 719 282. They are in particular described in patent application EP 122 324.
  • examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol A 15, Mirapol AD1 , Mirapol AZ1 and Mirapol 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, polyquaternary ureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use, alone or as blends, polymers of families (1 ), (7), (8) and (9). In accordance with one more particular embodiment of the invention, it is preferred to use polymers of families (7), (8) and (9). According to one even more advantageous embodiment of the invention, use is made of polymers of families (7) and (8) alone or as blends, and even more preferentially of polymers having repeating units of formulae (W) and (U) below:
  • the molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography is between 9500 and 9900;
  • the cationic polymer present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from polymers of families (7) and (8).
  • the cationic polymer present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from polymers of family (7), preferably dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers, polymers of formula (VIII) above, in particular polymers of formula (U) or (W), and blends thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 6% by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight of dry matter of cationic polymer(s) relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dye compositions, such as anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or blends thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; preserving agents; opacifiers; "additional" surfactants different from the oxyethylenated surfactants described above.
  • adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 % and 20% by weight relative to the weight of each composition.
  • the additional surfactants may in particular be chosen from anionic surfactants, non- ionic surfactants different from the oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactants described above, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • the surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from non-ionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -C0 2 H, -C0 2 " , -S0 3 H, -S0 3 " ,
  • anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyi sulfates, alkyi ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, oolefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamat.es, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyi monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarbox
  • These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyi monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyi polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyi polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -C 24 alkyi polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) in salt form, it (they) may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • aminoalcohol salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
  • anionic surfactants that may optionally be present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function.
  • mild anionic surfactants of the following compounds and their salts, and also mixtures thereof:
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups,
  • alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
  • Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for instance lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
  • lauryl ether carboxylic acid 4.5 OE
  • surfactants different from the oxyethylenated non-ionic surfactants described above mention may be made of alkylpolyglycosides and monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants.
  • Monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 4 o alcohols are preferably used.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
  • R represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 40 and preferably C 8 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical
  • m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 /Ci 0 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C1 0 /C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • the content of additional surfactants in the composition more particularly represents from 0.01 % to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of each composition.
  • compositions of the invention may also comprise one or more inorganic thickeners chosen from organophilic clays and fumed silicas, or mixtures thereof.
  • the organophilic clay can be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite or sepiolite, and mixtures thereofs.
  • the clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
  • These clays may be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Rheox, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by the company Rheox, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay; quaternium- 18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay, quaternium-18 hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel EC05, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone Gel IPP, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone
  • the fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas bearing a large number of silanol groups at their surface.
  • hydrophilic silicas are sold, for example, under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil HS-5®, Cab-O-Sil EH-5®, Cab-O-Sil LM- 130®, Cab-O-Sil MS-55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5® by the company Cabot.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS- 530® by the company Cabot.
  • Silicas thus treated are known as Silica Dimethyl Silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O- Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
  • the fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
  • the inorganic thickener represents from 0.1 % to 30% by weight relative to the weight of each composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may also each comprise one or more organic thickeners.
  • thickeners may be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconut monoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylenated carboxylic acid monoethanolamide alkyl ether), polymeric thickeners such as cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic regions and fatty-chain hydrophobic regions (alkyl or alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules).
  • fatty acid amides coconut monoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylenated carboxylic acid monoethanolamide alkyl ether
  • the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum) and crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulose-based thickeners in particular with hydroxyethyl cellulose.
  • cellulose-based thickeners hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose
  • guar gum and derivatives thereof hydroxypropyl guar
  • gums of microbial origin xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum
  • crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and preferably from cellulose-based thickeners in particular with hydroxyethyl cellulose.
  • composition according to the invention may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams or gels, or in any other form that is suitable for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
  • composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel or a cream.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention is advantageously between 3 and 12, preferably between 5 and 1 1 and preferentially between 7 and 1 1 , limits inclusive.
  • the alkaline and acidifying agents are, for example, those described previously.
  • Process of the invention is, for example, those described previously.
  • composition according to the invention as previously defined is applied to dry or wet keratin fibres. It is left in place on the fibres for a time generally ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.
  • the temperature during the dyeing process conventionally ranges from ambient temperature (between 15°C and 25°C) to 80°C and preferably from ambient temperature to 60°C.
  • the human keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
  • the composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing at least two compositions.
  • composition according to the invention results from the mixing of three compositions:
  • composition (A) comprising one or more basifying agents
  • composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide
  • composition (C) comprising at least one persalt
  • compositions (A), (B) and (C), preferably at least one of the compositions (A) and (B), comprises
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • the total amount of fatty substances in the mixture of the compositions (A)+(B)+(C) being greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said mixture.
  • the composition (A) comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably in a content of at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, better still from 70% to 90% by weight, even better still from 75% to 85% by weight of liquid fatty substance(s) relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
  • the composition (B) comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably in a content of at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25% by weight, better still at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
  • a subject of the invention is likewise a three-compartment device comprising: - a composition (A) comprising one or more basifying agents, and
  • composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide
  • composition (C) comprising at least one persalt
  • compositions (A), (B) and (C), preferably at least one of the compositions (A) and (B), comprises
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • the total amount of fatty substances in the mixture of the compositions (A)+(B)+(C) being greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said mixture.
  • a preferred a variant of this three-compartment device is the one comprising:
  • composition (A) comprising:
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • OE oxyethylenated
  • the total amount of fatty substances in the composition (A) being greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition
  • composition (B) comprising at least hydrogen peroxide and preferably at least one fatty substance and
  • composition (C) comprising at least one persalt.
  • the compositions (A), (B) and (C) give, after mixing, a ready-to-use composition according to the invention, as described above.
  • compositions are prepared (unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts are expressed in g% of product per se):
  • compositions obtained are stable. Mode of application
  • compositions (A), (B) and (C) are mixed at the time of use in the following proportions: 10 g of the composition (A), 20 g of the composition (B) and 1 g of the composition (C).
  • the resulting mixture is then applied to locks of chestnut hair, at a rate of 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
  • the mixture is left on at ambient temperature for 50 minutes.
  • the hair is then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.
  • the lightening and the colouration are of a very good level with good uniformity. Very very light blonde locks are obtained (visual evaluation).

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition pour colorer et/ou éclaircir des fibres de kératine, comprenant : - au moins une substance grasse, - au moins un tensioactif non ionique oxyéthylénique (OE) comprenant un nombre de motifs OE dans la plage de 1 à 9, et au moins un tensioactif non ionique oxyéthylénique (OE) comprenant au moins 10 motifs OE, le rapport en poids de la quantité de tensioactif(s) non ionique(s) oxyéthylénique(s) comprenant au moins 10 motifs OE à la quantité de tensioactif(s) non ionique(s) oxyéthylénique(s) comprenant un nombre de motifs OE dans la plage de 1 à 9, étant supérieur ou égal à 1, - au moins un agent basifiant, - au moins un persel et - du peroxyde d'hydrogène, la quantité totale de substances grasses dans la composition étant supérieure ou égale à 50 % en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition. L'invention concerne en outre un procédé pour colorer des fibres de kératine au moyen de cette composition, ainsi qu'un kit.
PCT/EP2014/077721 2013-12-19 2014-12-15 Composition riche en substances grasses comprenant du peroxyde d'hydrogène, un persel et des tensioactifs oxyéthyléniques WO2015091336A1 (fr)

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FR1363000A FR3015252B1 (fr) 2013-12-19 2013-12-19 Composition riche en corps gras comprenant du peroxyde d'hydrogene, un persel et des tensioactifs oxyethylenes
FR1363000 2013-12-19

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Cited By (1)

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WO2017136264A1 (fr) * 2016-02-03 2017-08-10 Elevance Renewable Sciences, Inc. Acides gras insaturés alcoxylés et leurs utilisations

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FR2542997A1 (fr) 1983-03-23 1984-09-28 Oreal Composition epaissie ou gelifiee de conditionnement des cheveux contenant au moins un polymere cationique, au moins un polymere anionique et au moins une gomme de xanthane
EP0122324A1 (fr) 1983-04-15 1984-10-24 Miranol Inc. Composés d'ammonium polyquaternaire et leurs compositions cosmétiques
US4719282A (en) 1986-04-22 1988-01-12 Miranol Inc. Polycationic block copolymer
DE3843892A1 (de) 1988-12-24 1990-06-28 Wella Ag Oxidationshaarfaerbemittel mit einem gehalt an diaminopyrazolderivaten und neue diaminopyrazolderivate
JPH0563124A (ja) 1991-09-03 1993-03-12 Mitsubishi Electric Corp 混成集積回路装置
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