WO2015066777A1 - Compositions cosmétiques sous la forme de nano-émulsions huile dans eau, contenant un/des alcool(s) gras solide(s), un/des ester(s) gras liquide(s), une/des autre(s) huile(s) et un/des tensioactif(s) non ionique(s) - Google Patents

Compositions cosmétiques sous la forme de nano-émulsions huile dans eau, contenant un/des alcool(s) gras solide(s), un/des ester(s) gras liquide(s), une/des autre(s) huile(s) et un/des tensioactif(s) non ionique(s) Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015066777A1
WO2015066777A1 PCT/BR2013/000468 BR2013000468W WO2015066777A1 WO 2015066777 A1 WO2015066777 A1 WO 2015066777A1 BR 2013000468 W BR2013000468 W BR 2013000468W WO 2015066777 A1 WO2015066777 A1 WO 2015066777A1
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weight
composition
oil
water
liquid
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PCT/BR2013/000468
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English (en)
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Pedro Aprigliano FERNANDES
Megumi Nishitani YUKUYAMA
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/BR2013/000468 priority Critical patent/WO2015066777A1/fr
Publication of WO2015066777A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015066777A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions in the form of oil-in- water nanoemulsions, comprising one or more solid fatty alcohol(s), one or more liquid fatty ester(s), one or more non siliconated liquid oil(s) different from liquid fatty esters and one or more non-ionic surfactant(s), and a process for preparing them.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers such as hair, using such a composition and also to a cosmetic use of said composition.
  • compositions are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
  • O/W emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as external phase, which gives them a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions when they are applied to the skin.
  • Nanoemulsions (ultrafine emulsions) are particularly appreciated in terms of feel and efficiency of active ingredients they may contain.
  • the emulsions are generally stabilized with suitable emulsifying surfactants, which, by virtue of their amphiphilic structure, become positioned at the oil/water interface and thus stabilize the dispersed droplets.
  • suitable emulsifying surfactants which, by virtue of their amphiphilic structure, become positioned at the oil/water interface and thus stabilize the dispersed droplets.
  • these emulsifying surfactants have the drawback of being penetrating and potentially irritant to the skin, eyes and the scalp, especially in the case of individuals with sensitive skin.
  • cationic surfactants is known in the cosmetic field, and further contributes to improve the cosmetic properties, in particular hair conditioning.
  • an oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising the combination of at least one solid fatty alcohol, at least one liquid fatty ester, at least one non-siliconated liquid oil different from liquid fatty esters, with at least one non-ionic surfactant, and preferably at least two non-ionic surfactants, allows overcoming the above drawbacks.
  • the cosmetic composition allows to obtain excellent cosmetic properties such as anti-frizz effect, feel and disentangling.
  • a subject-matter of the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, comprising one or more solid fatty alcohol(s), one or more liquid fatty ester(s), one or more non-siliconated liquid oil(s) different from liquid fatty esters and one or more, preferably two or more non-ionic surfactant(s), and optionally one or more polyol(s).
  • Another subject-matter relates to a process for preparing the cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the following steps:
  • liquid fatty ester(s) one or more, preferably two or more non-ionic surfactant(s), one or more solid fatty alcohol(s), one or more non-siliconated liquid oil(s) different from liquid fatty esters and optionally one or more polyol(s) and the other components of the composition of the invention, other than water, including or not fragrance(s), and
  • composition A from 5 to 25 % by weight of water, the amount of water being expressed in weight % relative to the total weight of composition A,
  • composition A optionally mixing composition A with fragrance(s) to obtain composition A', when fragrance(s) is not used for the preparation of composition A, and
  • Composition A may be prepared by mixing beforehand two compositions B et C, the first one B comprising one or more, preferably two or more non-ionic surfactant(s), and optionally one or more polyol(s), and water, the second one C comprising one or more non siliconated liquid oil(s) different from liquid fatty esters and no water, the one or more solid fatty alcohol(s) and the one or more liquid fatty ester(s) being present in at least one composition B or C.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the invention, and optionally in rinsing.
  • a cosmetic treatment process preferably for conditioning keratin fibers, in particular the hair, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the invention, and optionally in rinsing.
  • the cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises one or more fatty alcohol(s), one or more liquid fatty ester(s) and one or more, preferably two or more non-ionic surfactants, and optionally one or more mineral oil(s) and/or one or more polyol(s).
  • the cosmetic composition is in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion.
  • the emulsion comprises oil droplets dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.
  • the emulsion is a nanoemulsion, that is to say that the number mean size of the oil droplets is less than or equal to 200 nm, more preferably less than or equal to 150 nm, and even more preferably less than or equal to 100 nm.
  • a nanoemulsion according to the invention is a thermodynamically unstable dispersion of oil droplets in a continuous aqueous phase.
  • Nanoemulsions are different from microemulsions which are thermodynamically stable dispersions and which form spontaneously when mixing constituents thereof without providing substantial power.
  • the number mean size of the oil droplets of the nanoemulsion according to the invention ranging from 20 to 80 nm, and even more preferred from 40 to 60 nm.
  • the amount of oil(s) in the composition of the invention may range from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% and better still from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water in the composition of the invention may preferably range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% and better still from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may also comprise one or more water-soluble solvents, such as linear or branched monoalcohols containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol.
  • water-soluble solvents such as linear or branched monoalcohols containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol.
  • the one or more solid fatty alcohol(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably comprise 8 to 100 carbon atoms, more particularly 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 16 to 30, even better still from 18 to 28 carbon atoms. They are neither glycerolated nor oxyalkylenated. They may be preferably saturated linear alcohols, most preferably saturated and linear C10-C40, better C16-C30, much better C18-C28 alcohols.
  • solid fatty alcohol is intended to mean a non-glycerolated and non- oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is solid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 ⁇ 105 Pa).
  • the solid fatty alcohol(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • liquid fatty esters means an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol, and that is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 ⁇ 105 Pa).
  • the esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
  • esters of monoalcohols at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isodecyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate and isononyl isononanoate.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
  • composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and in particular of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates.
  • oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include:
  • triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
  • Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and mixtures thereof are most particularly preferred.
  • the liquid fatty ester(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more non- siliconated liquid oil(s) different from liquid fatty esters.
  • non-siliconated liquid oils are encompassed oils which do not comprise any Si-0 bond in their chemical structure.
  • oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • non-siliconated liquid oil is selected from aliphatic hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid fatty alcohol is intended to mean a non-glycerolated and non- oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 * 105 Pa).
  • the liquid fatty alcohols could be saturated or unsaturated. Most preferably, they are unsaturated or saturated and branched.
  • the saturated liquid fatty alcohols are in particular branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • branched liquid fatty alcohol By way of examples of a branched liquid fatty alcohol, mention may be made of isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyM-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-tetradecyl-1- cetanol, 2-dodecyhhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-1-eicosanol, 2- hexadecyl-1-octadecanol, 2-hexadecyl-1-eicosanol and mixtures thereof. 2-octyl-1- dodecanol is most particularly preferred.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.
  • These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
  • They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
  • Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
  • the non-siliconated liquid oil be selected from the group consisting of aliphatic hydrocarbons, in particular mineral oils.
  • aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • Mineral Oil is a liquid mixture of hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. In the United States, Mineral Oil may be used as an active ingredient in OTC drug products. When used as an active drug ingredient, the established name is Mineral Oil.
  • the labeling name in the EU will be, Paraffinum Liquidum, when regulations for ingredient labeling under the 6th Amendment to the EC Cosmetics Directive go into effect. It is known by CAS Nos. 8012-95-1 and 8042-47-5 and is available in numerous grades and under numerous technical names including heavy mineral oil, light mineral oil, liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum and paraffin oil.
  • a non-comprehensive list of mineral oils and suppliers can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Seventh Edition, 1997, Edited by J. Wenninger and G.N. McEwen, Jr. Any type or grade of mineral oil may be used in accordance with the present invention. Blends of various grades and viscosities of mineral oils are also contemplated.
  • aliphatic hydrocarbons mention may also be made of linear or branched, or possibly cyclic C6-C 6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
  • the non siliconated liquid oil(s) different from liquid fatty esters is (are) present in proportions of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are disclosed in McCutcheon's "Detergents and Emulsifiers,” North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon's “Functional Materials,” North American Edition (1992); both of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.
  • nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following: fatty alcohols, fatty phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, wherein the fatty chain, which is saturated or insaturated, is in the C10-C50 range, preferably in the C12-C40 range, more preferably in the C16 to C40 range, these compounds having in their structure from 1 to about 100 alkoxy groups.
  • the alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferred alkoxides.
  • the alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated. Of these alkoxylated non- ionic surfactants, the ethoxylated non-ionic surfactants and propoxylated non-ionic surfactants are more preferred.
  • ethoxylated non-ionic surfactants include laureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 3), laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 23), ceteth-10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) steareth-10 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10), and steareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 2), steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 100), beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5), beheneth-10 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10), PEG
  • Brij® nonionic surfactants from Uniqema, Wilmington, DE.
  • Brij® is the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 54 moles of ethylene oxide, the alkyl chain of the alcohol being typically a linear chain and having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example, Brij® 72 (i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij® 76 (i.e., Steareth-10).
  • alkyl glycosides which are the condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g. C8-C30 alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers.
  • These compounds can be represented by the formula (S)n --0--R wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer of from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C8-C30 alkyl group.
  • long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like.
  • these surfactants are alkyl polyglucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a C8-C20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of from about 1 to about 9.
  • Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG® 325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG® 600CS and 625 CS),all the above-identified polyglucosides APG® are available from Cognis, Ambler, Pa.
  • sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.
  • glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters including but not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, and polyglyceryl esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl- 3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl monoesters preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branche
  • sorbitan esters are also useful herein as nonionic surfactants.
  • sorbitan esters Preferable are sorbitan esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids. Because of the manner in which they are typically manufactured, these sorbitan esters usually comprise mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters.
  • sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (e.g., SPAN® 80), sorbitan sesquioleate (e.g., Arlacel® 83 from Uniqema, Wilmington, Del.), sorbitan monoisostearate (e.g., CRILL® 6 from Croda, Inc., Edison, N.J.), sorbitan stearates (e.g., SPAN® 60), sorbitan trioleate (e.g., SPAN® 85), sorbitan tristearate (e.g., SPAN® 65), sorbitan dipalmitates (e.g., SPAN® 40), and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate are particularly preferred emulsifiers for use in the present invention.
  • alkoxylated derivatives of glyceryl esters, sorbitan esters, and alkyl polyglycosides are also suitable for use herein.
  • the alkoxy groups is selected from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of these materials being the preferred.
  • ethoxylated materials include TWEEN® (ethoxylated sorbitan mono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C12 to C18 fatty acids with an average degree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20).
  • nonionic surfactants are chosen from alkoxylated fatty acid esters and sorbitan esters such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan monooleate and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-ionic surfactants having different Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB).
  • HLB Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance
  • the composition comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant having a HLB ranging from 1.5 to 10 and at least one non-ionic surfactant having a HLB ranging from 10.1 to 20.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) will typically be present in the composition in proportions of from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 % to10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more polyol(s).
  • a polyol usable in the composition of the invention is a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated compound having at least two -OH groups carried by the alkyl chain, or polyether polymer of these polyhydroxylated alkyl-based compounds. More particularly, the polyol has an alkyl chain having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms. The most preferred polyol has a C2-3 alkyl chain.
  • the polyol(s) usable in the composition of the invention may be chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butyldiglycol, 1 ,2,3- trihydroxyhexane, glycerol and polyglycerines (such as hexaglycerol), polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, ethyleneglycol/propylene glycol copolymers and sorbitol.
  • the polyol may be oxyalkylated. Mention may be made of polyethylene glycols containing from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides.
  • the polyol(s) usable in the composition of the invention are chosen from liquid polyols at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 105 Pa).
  • polyol is glycerol, propyleneglycol or mixture thereof.
  • the polyol(s) When the polyol(s) is (are) included in the composition, it(they) will be present in proportions of from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention may contain one or more adjuvant(s).
  • adjuvants include UV-screening agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, pH adjusters (acidic or basic), fragrances, bactericides, odor absorbers, fillers, dyestuffs (pigments or dyes) and lipid vesicles.
  • adjuvants can be used in their usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01% to 30% of the total weight of the emulsion, and, depending on their nature, they may be introduced into the aqueous phase and/or into the oily phase of the emulsion, These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the emulsion of the invention.
  • composition of the invention is preferably used in topical application on keratin materials such as human hair and human skin. More preferably the composition of the invention is applied on human hair.
  • This composition may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse or a cream.
  • composition that is the subject of the invention finds application especially in a wide variety of cosmetic treatments of the hair, including the scalp, especially for treating, protecting, caring for, cleansing and/or conditioning the hair.
  • composition that is the subject of the invention finds application for treating the hair, especially for conditioning the hair.
  • one subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition as defined above for treating, protecting, caring for, cleansing and/or for conditioning the keratin material, preferably the hair, especially for cleansing and/or conditioning the hair.
  • Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers such as the hair, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the keratin materials, and optionally rinsed, in particular after the composition is left in contact with keratin material during 30 seconds to 30 minutes.
  • Another subject-matter relates to a process for preparing the cosmetic composition (I) according to the invention, comprising the following steps:
  • liquid fatty ester(s) one or more, preferably two or more non-ionic surfactant(s), one or more solid fatty alcohol(s), one or more non-siliconated liquid oil(s) different from liquid fatty esters and optionally one or more polyol(s) and the other components of the composition of the invention, other than water, including or not fragrance(s), and
  • composition A from 5 to 25 % by weight of water, the amount of water being expressed in weight % relative to the total weight of composition A,
  • composition A optionally mixing composition A with fragrance(s) to obtain composition A', when fragrance(s) is not used for the preparation of composition A, and
  • composition A can be prepared by mixing beforehand two compositions B et C, the first one B comprising one or more, preferably two or more non- ionic surfactant(s) and optionally one or more polyol(s) and water, the second one C comprising one or more non-siliconated liquid oil(s) different from liquid fatty esters and no water, the one or more solid fatty alcohol(s) and the one or more liquid fatty ester(s) being present in at least one composition B or C.
  • liquid fatty ester(s) are present in composition C.
  • Step (c) may be divided into two steps:
  • step (c') wherein a quantity of water representing from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (I), is added;
  • step (c") wherein a quantity of water representing from 65 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (I), is added, the total quantity of water introduced in steps (a), (c') and (c") representing 100% of water introduced in composition (I) according to the invention.
  • step (a) is carried out at a temperature ranging from 65 to 95°C, more preferably at about 70°C.
  • step (b) is carried out at a temperature ranging from 35 to 55°C, more preferably at about 45°C.
  • step (c') is a slow addition of water associated with phase inversion.
  • a composition according to the invention is prepared from the compounds indicated in Table 1 below.
  • Crodamol IPM-LQ 70 (3) sold under the name Crodamol IPM-LQ 70 by the company Croda
  • Emcaplus 70 sold under the name Emcaplus 70 by the company EMCA
  • composition can be prepared according to the following process comprising the following steps:
  • composition When applied to hair, composition affords a high level of conditioning effect particularly in terms of smoothness.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques sous la forme de nano-émulsions huile dans eau, contenant au moins un alcool gras solide, au moins un ester gras liquide, au moins une huile liquide siliconée différente des esters gras liquides, et au moins un tensioactif non ionique. L'invention concerne également un procédé de préparation de ces compositions cosmétiques. L'invention concerne également un processus de traitement cosmétique de matières kératiniques au moyen d'une telle composition, ainsi qu'un usage cosmétique de ladite composition.
PCT/BR2013/000468 2013-11-08 2013-11-08 Compositions cosmétiques sous la forme de nano-émulsions huile dans eau, contenant un/des alcool(s) gras solide(s), un/des ester(s) gras liquide(s), une/des autre(s) huile(s) et un/des tensioactif(s) non ionique(s) WO2015066777A1 (fr)

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WO2019072507A1 (fr) 2017-10-10 2019-04-18 Unilever Plc Nanoémulsions à acide gras neutralisé et procédé de production de celles-ci
WO2019224048A1 (fr) 2018-05-23 2019-11-28 Unilever Plc Nanoémulsions et leur procédé de fabrication
JP2020105077A (ja) * 2018-12-26 2020-07-09 クラシエホームプロダクツ株式会社 乳化化粧料
WO2021104786A1 (fr) * 2019-11-27 2021-06-03 Beiersdorf Ag Composition de conditionnement
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KR101900808B1 (ko) * 2016-11-16 2018-09-20 주식회사 엘지생활건강 고온 안정성이 우수한 나노 에멀전 조성물
WO2019072507A1 (fr) 2017-10-10 2019-04-18 Unilever Plc Nanoémulsions à acide gras neutralisé et procédé de production de celles-ci
CN111182883A (zh) * 2017-10-10 2020-05-19 荷兰联合利华有限公司 具有中和的脂肪酸的纳米乳液及其生产方法
US11219581B2 (en) 2017-10-10 2022-01-11 Conopco, Inc. Nanoemulsions with neutralized fatty acid and a method producing the same
WO2019224048A1 (fr) 2018-05-23 2019-11-28 Unilever Plc Nanoémulsions et leur procédé de fabrication
US11540984B2 (en) 2018-05-23 2023-01-03 Conopco, Inc. Nanoemulsions and a method for making the same
KR20180064355A (ko) * 2018-06-01 2018-06-14 주식회사 엘지생활건강 고온 안정성이 우수한 나노 에멀전 조성물
KR101904155B1 (ko) * 2018-06-01 2018-10-05 주식회사 엘지생활건강 고온 안정성이 우수한 나노 에멀전 조성물
JP2020105077A (ja) * 2018-12-26 2020-07-09 クラシエホームプロダクツ株式会社 乳化化粧料
JP7298863B2 (ja) 2018-12-26 2023-06-27 クラシエホームプロダクツ株式会社 乳化化粧料
WO2021104786A1 (fr) * 2019-11-27 2021-06-03 Beiersdorf Ag Composition de conditionnement
US11364199B1 (en) 2021-11-09 2022-06-21 King Abdulaziz University Essential oil nanoemulsion and methods of use thereof

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