WO2021085197A1 - Émulsion à phase aqueuse interne élevée - Google Patents

Émulsion à phase aqueuse interne élevée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021085197A1
WO2021085197A1 PCT/JP2020/039201 JP2020039201W WO2021085197A1 WO 2021085197 A1 WO2021085197 A1 WO 2021085197A1 JP 2020039201 W JP2020039201 W JP 2020039201W WO 2021085197 A1 WO2021085197 A1 WO 2021085197A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
oil
composition according
emulsifier
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PCT/JP2020/039201
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English (en)
Inventor
Rohit Jain
Ritesh Sinha
Nathalie Monteiro VARELA
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2021085197A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021085197A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a W/O emulsion including a large amount of water.
  • W/O emulsions which consist of an aqueous phase dispersed in an oil phase have an external oil phase, and therefore cosmetic/dermatological products based on the W/O emulsions can provide a comfortable feeling to the touch.
  • high internal phase W/O emulsions which include a relatively large amount of water are called high internal phase W/O emulsions.
  • high internal phase W/O emulsions can provide a fresher sensation due to the relatively large amount of water, in addition to good resistance to water or sweat due to the external fatty phase of the emulsions.
  • an objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition in the form of a W/O emulsion including a large amount of water.
  • composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising:
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise a continuous phase and a dispersed phase, and the continuous phase may comprise the (a) oil(s) and the (b) emulsifier(s), and the dispersed phase may comprise the (c) water.
  • the Hansen solubility parameter of the (a) oil may be 13.5 to 18 MPa 0 ⁇ 5 , preferably 14.0 to 17.5 MPa 05 , and more preferably 14.5 to 17 MPa 05 .
  • the (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, plant oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of dodecane, hemisqualane, squalane, coconut oil, and mixtures thereof
  • the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the HLB value of the (b) emulsifier(s) may be more than 1.7 and less than 7, preferably more than 2.0 and less than 6.5, and more preferably more than 3.0 and less than 6.0.
  • the (b) emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, amphoteric, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (b) emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of lecithin, glycol distearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, steareth-2, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise, as the (b) emulsifier(s), first and second emulsifiers, wherein the first emulsifier has a melting point of less than 5 °C, and the second emulsifier has a melting point of more than 30 °C.
  • the amount of the (b) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one alcohol.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise 1% by weight or less of thickener(s), preferably 0.1% by weight or less of thickener(s) and more preferably no thickener (s).
  • composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a skin cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process, preferably a moisturizing or hydrating process, for a keratin substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin substance.
  • the composition in the form of a W/O emulsion according to the present invention comprises:
  • (c) water wherein the melting point of a mixture of the (a) oil(s) and the (b) emulsifier(s) is between 5 °C and 50 °C, and the amount of the (c) water in the composition is 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in the form of a W/O emulsion according to the present invention is stable such that it can maintain the W/O structure thereof for a long period of time. This can be affirmed visually by the uniform or homogeneous aspect thereof without visible phase separation.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises an oil phase and aqueous phases which are dispersed in the oil phase.
  • the emulsifier(s) can be present at the interface between the oil phase and the aqueous phases.
  • the emulsifier(s) may form a protective layer around the aqueous phase which can stabilize the dispersion of the aqueous phase in the oil phase.
  • the thickness of the protective layer around the aqueous phases in the oil phase tends to be thin or may be less rigid, and therefore, it is in general difficult to stabilize the dispersion of the aqueous phases in the oil phase.
  • the protective layer can have a controlled rigidity, which is not very hard but not very soft, and therefore, the protective layer is not fragile. Accordingly, the aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention can be protected well and maintain their dispersion in the oil phase. On the other hand, the protective layer can be broken quickly, when the composition according to the present invention is applied onto a keratin substance, by shear force which can be provided by fingers or the like. Therefore, the aqueous phases can be spread on the keratin substance to release water, which can provide a fresh sensation of use.
  • the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention can be controlled without a thickening agent.
  • the viscosity of the composition according to the present invention can be controlled by the internal phase structure such as the droplet size and weight percent of the aqueous phases. Further, the composition according to the present invention can provide superior cosmetic effects because the amount of water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient(s) in the internal aqueous phases can be increased. Furthermore, the composition in the form of a W/O emulsion according to the present invention can provide unique textural properties. On application, a user can feel the composition is soft and slippery (these feeling can come from mostly the oil phase). When the user applies more shear force in order to spread it well onto a keratin substance, the emulsion can become harder. Then, the emulsion can break to release water from the aqueous phases.
  • the stability of the composition according to the present invention may be further improved. If the (b) emulsifier(s) has or have an HLB value of more than 1.7 and less than 7, preferably more than 2.0 and less than 6.5, and more preferably more than 3.0 and less than 6.0, the stability of the composition according to the present invention may be further improved.
  • composition according to the present invention can comprises a continuous phase and a dispersed phase, and the continuous phase can comprise the (a) oil(s) and the (b) emulsifier(s), and the dispersed phases can comprise the (c) water.
  • the (a) oil and the (b) emulsifier are substances which are different from each other.
  • the melting point of a mixture of the (a) oil(s) and the (b) emulsifier(s) is between 5 °C and 50 °C, preferably between 10 °C and 50 °C, and more preferably between 15 °C and 50 °C.
  • the (a) oil(s) and the (b) emulsifier(s) can be mixed at a temperature above the highest melting temperature of the oil(s) and surfactant(s) mixture. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the (a) oil(s) and the (b) emulsifier(s).
  • the mixture of the (a) oil(s) and the emulsifier(s) should be homogeneous or even.
  • the melting point of a mixture of the (a) oil(s) and the (b) emulsifier(s) can be determined by, for example, a DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) analysis which is common in the art.
  • the mixture can be heated.
  • the temperature reading at the peak on the melting curve (during heating) can be regarded as the melting point of the mixture.
  • the mixture can be cooled.
  • the temperature reading at the first freezing point (during cooling) can be regarded as the melting point of the mixture.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. If two or more (a) oils are used, they may be the same or different.
  • oils means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (1 atm).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils mention may be made of, for example, coconut oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci- C 26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C 4 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sucrose means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleo stearates.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexy
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/ caprylate/linolenate) .
  • capryl caprylyl glycerides glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/ caprylate/linolenate) .
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like
  • cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof.
  • cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula: " ' - D" - '
  • organosilicon compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclo
  • decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione ® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil ® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the Mirasil ® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s; and the Viscasil ® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
  • the Silbione ® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil ® oils sold by Rhodia for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000
  • the oils of the Mirasil ® series sold by the company Rhodia the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
  • the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:
  • Ri to Rio independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.
  • oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia examples include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
  • Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, hemisqualane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce- C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.
  • saturated fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • saturated fatty alcohols mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.
  • Haen solubility parameter here means the solubility parameters defined by C.
  • HSP Hansen Solubility Parameters
  • Solubility parameters are calculated numerical constants which are a useful tool in predicting the behavior of the (a) oil.
  • Each of the three parameters i.e., dispersion, polar and hydrogen bonding
  • the three parameters are a measure of the overall strength and selectivity of a solvent.
  • the Total Hansen solubility parameter which is the square root of the sum of the squares of the three parameters mentioned previously, provides a more general description of the solvency of the (a) oil. Individual and total Solubility Parameter units are given in (MPa) 05 .
  • d characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts
  • d r characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles
  • d h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.).
  • the (a) oil for use in compositions, according to the present invention has a Hansen Solubility Parameter (d) ranging from 13.5 to 18 MPa 0 ⁇ 5 , preferably 14.0 to 17.5 MPa 05 , and more preferably 14.5 to 17 MPa 05 .
  • the (a) oil be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, plant oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (a) oil be chosen from dodecane, hemisqualane, squalane, coconut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one emulsifier. If two or more (b) emulsifiers are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the types of the (b) emulsifier are not limited.
  • amphiphilic powder(s) may be used as the (b) emulsifier.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a Pickering emulsion.
  • the (b) emulsifier be selected from surfactants.
  • composition according to the present invention may include at least one surfactant.
  • Two or more surfactants may be used in combination.
  • a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactant may be used.
  • the surfactant used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from nonionic surfactants.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • the anionic surfactant be selected from the group consisting of (C6- C 3 o)alkyl sulfates, (C 6 ⁇ C 3 o)alkyl ether sulfates, (C 6 -C 3 o)alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; (C 6 -C 3 o)alkylsulfonates, (C 6 -C 3 o)alkylamide sulfonates, (C 6 -C 3 o)alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefm sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; (C 6 -C3o)alkyl phosphates; (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, (C6
  • the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts such as salts of alkali metals, for instance sodium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance magnesium; ammonium salts; amine salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in acid form.
  • the anionic surfactant be selected from salts of (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl sulfate, (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl ether sulfates or polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl ether carboxylic acid, that may or may not be salified.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.
  • the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quatemized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain including 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate, or phosphonate).
  • amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.
  • amphoteric surfactant be selected from betaine-type surfactants.
  • the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C8-C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C 2 4)alkylamido(Ci- C 8 )alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulphobetaines.
  • amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (Cs- C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.
  • Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.
  • the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
  • amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:
  • Ri denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl, or undecyl radical,
  • R2 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R3 denotes a carboxymethyl group
  • M + denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metals such as sodium; ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • X denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, particularly methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or M + and X are not present;
  • Rf denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Rf-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C7, C9, C11, or C13 alkyl radical, a Cn alkyl radical and its iso-form, or an unsaturated C17 radical,
  • X' denotes a -CH2-COOH group, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ ⁇ or a hydrogen atom
  • Y’ denotes -COOH, -COOZ’, -CHz-CHOH-SOsZ’, -CH2-CHOH-SO3H radical, or a -CH 2 - CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z’ radical, wherein Z’ represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion; and
  • Y denotes -C(0)0H, -C(0)0Z”, -CH 2 -CH(0H)-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CH(0H)-S0 3 -Z”, wherein Z” denotes a cationic ion derived from alkaline metal or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium, an ion derived from organic amine or an ammonium ion;
  • Rd and Re denote a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical
  • Ra denotes a Cio-C 3 o group alkyl or alkenyl group from an acid, and n and n’ independently denote an integer from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric surfactant with formula B1 and B2 be selected from (Cs- C 2 4)-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (Cg-C 2 4)alkyl amphodiacetates, (Cs-C 2 4)alkyl amphomonopropionates, and (C8-C 2 4)alkyl amphodipropionates
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • CTFA diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more cationic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • the cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include, but are not limited to: those of general formula (B3) below: wherein
  • Ri, R 2 , R 3 , and R4 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (Ci2-C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 - C6)alkyl, (Ci 2 -C 2 2)alkylacetate, and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (B4) below: wherein:
  • R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;
  • R6 is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • R7 is chosen from C1-C4 alkyl radicals
  • Re is chosen from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl radicals
  • X is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • R5 and Re are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl, and Rs is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quatemium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;
  • R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals including from 16 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -
  • R11, R12, RB, Ri4, Ri6a, Ri7a, and Ri8a which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • X is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.
  • R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R23 is chosen from: the radical below: linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R27, and hydrogen,
  • R 25 is chosen from: the radical below: linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R29, and hydrogen,
  • R22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10.
  • R23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and include from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and include from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it may include, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R24, R26, and R28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s, and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2.
  • the anion X may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium including an ester function are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the present invention.
  • the anion X is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
  • the ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used, wherein: R22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals, x and y are equal to 1 ; z is equal to 0 or 1 ; r, s, and t are equal to 2;
  • R23 is chosen from: the radical below: methyl, ethyl, and C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, hydrogen;
  • R 25 is chosen from: the radical below: and hydrogen;
  • R- 24 , R 26 , and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl- methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl- dimethyl-ammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound includes several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification may be followed by a quatemization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
  • the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetatejammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl®
  • the cationic surfactant that may be used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quatemium-83, Quatemium-87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.
  • nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in and of themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178).
  • they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha- diols, alkylphenols, and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30.
  • Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.
  • the nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated, or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
  • monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include: monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated Cs- C30 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated Cs- C30 amides, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of monoalkyleneglycol or polyalkyleneglycols, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids, and of sorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated plant oils, and condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide,
  • the surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, and more preferably between 1 and 20.
  • the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of ethyleneglycol and fatty alcohol), monooxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of ethyleneglycol and fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.
  • Examples of monooxyalkylenated fatty ester that may be mentioned include glycol distearate.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of polyethyleneglycol and fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of polyethyleneglycol and fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohol examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (Laureth-2 to Laureth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with ethylene alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20
  • polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol or C8-C30 alcohols
  • examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) include the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (Oleth-2 to Oleth-20, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
  • monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols are preferably used.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: R0-[CH 2 -CH(CH 2 0H)-0] m -H or R0-[CH(CH 2 0H)-CH 2 0] m -H in which R represents a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is preferable to use a Cs/Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, a Cio/Ci 2 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, and a Ci 2 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:
  • polyoxyethylenated fatty esters examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-2 to PEG-20 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-2 laurate to PEG-20 laurate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-2 palmitate to PEG-20 palmitate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-2 stearate to PEG-20 stearate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitostearate; PEG-2 to PEG-20 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-2 behenate to PEG-20 behenate); and mixtures thereof.
  • PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitate CTFA names: PEG-2 palmitate to PEG-20 palmitate
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a Cs-C 24 , preferably Ci 2 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a Cs- C 2 4, preferably Ci 2 -C 22 , fatty acid or acids, and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose,
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) (CTFAname: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof can be cited, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) and polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate)
  • surfactants such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFAname: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
  • the sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, sobitan sesquioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFAname: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFAname: polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.
  • CTFA name sorbitan monostearate
  • esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFAname: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFAname: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFAname: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl
  • ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFAname: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl-glucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can for example be cited.
  • CTFAname PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate
  • CTFA name P
  • sucrose esters saccharose palmito-stearate, saccharose stearate, and saccharose monolaurate can for example be cited.
  • alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for example decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302
  • glycerides of alkoxylated plant oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.
  • the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention may preferably contains alkenyl or a branched C12-C22 acyl chain such as an oleyl or isostearyl group. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula:
  • the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants.
  • silicone surfactants Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
  • the silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I): in which: Ri, R2, and R3, independently of each other, represent a Ci-Ce alkyl radical or a radical - (CH2)x-(OCH2CH 2 ) y -(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR 4 , at least one radical Ri, R 2 , or R 3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical, or an acyl radical;
  • A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
  • B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
  • the alkyl radical is a methyl radical
  • x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
  • y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):
  • silicone surfactants of formula (I) mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III):
  • Compounds of the present invention which may be used are those sold by the company Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695, and Q4-3667.
  • the compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2, and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10, and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3, and y is 12.
  • the compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 and y is 13.
  • the HLB value of the (b) emulsifier(s) be more than 1.7 and less than 7, preferably more than 2.0 and less than 6.5, and more preferably more than 3.0 and less than 6.0.
  • the (b) emulsifier be selected from the group consisting of lecithin, glycol distearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate, steareth-2, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • first and second emulsifiers it may be preferable to use, as the (b) emulsifier(s), first and second emulsifiers, wherein the first emulsifier has a melting point of less than 5 °C, and the second emulsifier has a melting point of more than 30 °C.
  • the amount of the (b) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (b) emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention includes (c) water.
  • the amount of the (c) water in the composition according to the present invention is 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 88% by weight or less, and more preferably 86% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 60% to 88% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 86% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may include at least one alcohol.
  • the alcohol may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile means that the alcohol can evaporate under a normal atmospheric pressure such as 1 atm and at room temperature such as 25°C.
  • alcohol mention may be made of, for example, monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms
  • the amount of the alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
  • the cosmetic active ingredient There is no limitation to the cosmetic active ingredient. Two or more cosmetic active ingredients may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cosmetic active ingredient or a combination of different types of cosmetic active ingredients may be used.
  • UV filters include UV filters, anti oxidants, cleansing agents, free radical scavengers, moisturizers, whitening agents, liporegulators, anti-acne agents, antidandruff agents, anti-aging agents, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, keratolitic agents, anti-inflammatory agents, fresheners, healing agents, vascular protectors, antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, antiperspirants, deodorants, skin conditioners, anesthetics, immunomodulators, nourishing agents, and sebum absorbers or moisture absorbers.
  • the cosmetic active ingredient is oil-soluble.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise the cosmetic active ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the dispersed phase of the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.5 to 8, and more preferably from 4 to 7.
  • the pH of the dispersed phase of the composition may be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one acid.
  • the pH of the composition may also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent.
  • Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination.
  • a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
  • the alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of ammonia; alkaline metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkaline metal phosphates and monohydrogenophosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogeno phosphate.
  • the inorganic alkaline metal hydroxides mention may be made of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
  • alkaline earth metal hydroxides mention may be made of calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide.
  • sodium hydroxide is preferable.
  • the alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of monoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof; basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; oligomers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; polymers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.
  • organic alkaline agents examples include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:
  • R2 R4 wherein R denotes an alkyl ene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci- C4 alkyl radical, and Ri, R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferable.
  • the alkaline agent(s) may be used in a total amount of from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
  • a monovalent acid and/or a polyvalent acid may be used.
  • a monovalent acid such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid (HC1) may be used. HC1 is preferable.
  • the acid(s) may be used in a total amount of from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one buffering agent. Two or more buffering agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of buffering agent or a combination of different types of buffering agents may be used.
  • the buffering agent mention may be made of an acetate buffer (for example, acetic acid + sodium acetate), a phosphate buffer (for example, sodium dihydrogen phosphate + di-sodium hydrogen phosphate), a citrate buffer (for example, citric acid + sodium citrate), a borate buffer (for example, boric acid + sodium borate), a tartrate buffer (for example, tartaric acid + sodium tartrate dihydrate), Tris buffer (for example, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane), and Hepes buffer (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-l-piperazineethanesulfonic acid).
  • acetate buffer for example, acetic acid + sodium acetate
  • a phosphate buffer for example, sodium dihydrogen phosphate + di-s
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned components, components typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, such as dyes, powders, thickeners, polymers, silicones and silicone derivatives, natural extracts derived from vegetables, waxes, and the like, within a range which do not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • components typically employed in cosmetics specifically, such as dyes, powders, thickeners, polymers, silicones and silicone derivatives, natural extracts derived from vegetables, waxes, and the like, within a range which do not impair the effects of the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional additive(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises 1% by weight or less of thickener(s), more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of thickener(s), and even more preferably no thickener(s).
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by the process comprising:
  • Step (ii) heating the mixture of the above ingredients (a) and (b) to a temperature above the melting points of the mixture of the above ingredients (a) and (b) to prepare an isotropic phase;
  • Step (iii) adding (c) water having the same temperature as in step (ii) slowly to the isotropic phase while mixing.
  • the mixing speed at step (iii) may be critical for making emulsions since with the addition of water, the viscosity of the bulk will increase. Mixing speeds that are too low may lead to pooling of water on the bulk surface and sometimes polydisperse distribution of water droplets that may lead to unstable compositions. Mixing speeds that are too high, on the other hand, may break the high internal phase emulsion structure of the composition irreversibly. Hence, moderate mixing speeds are recommended to make fine water droplets with monodisperse distribution.
  • a Rayneri mixer [TURBOTEST Type V2004] with a rotor/stator homogenizer (Diameter of the blade is 55 mm) supplied by VMI Linxis Group [France] may be used.
  • the speed of mixing in step (iii) may preferably be kept at 1,500 rpm.
  • composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion.
  • the (a) oil(s) and the (b) emulsifier(s) can form the continuous phase of the emulsion, and the (c) water can form the dispersed phases of the emulsion.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin substance.
  • Keratin substance here means a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process for the keratin substance, in particular skin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a skin cosmetic composition, preferably a skin care composition or a skin makeup composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process, preferably a moisturizing or hydrating process, for a keratin substance such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin substance.
  • the cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and/or making up the surface of a keratin substrate such as skin.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of (a) at least one oil and (b) at least one emulsifier wherein the melting point of a mixture of the (a) oil(s) and the (b) emulsifier(s) is between 5 °C and 50 °C, in order to prepare a stable W/O emulsion wherein the amount of (c) water in the emulsion is 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-3 (Ex. 1-3) and Comparative Example 1 (Comp. Ex. 1) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.
  • Heating cycle 0 °C to 80 °C
  • Cooling cycle 80 °C to -50 °C
  • Heating/Cooling rate 5 °C/min If the mixture was not liquid at the starting temperature, the mixture was heated. The temperature reading at the peak on the melting curve (during heating) was taken as the melting point of the mixture.
  • the mixture was liquid at the starting temperature, the mixture was cooled. The temperature reading at the first freezing point was taken as the melting point of the mixture.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1 in the form of a W/O emulsion, was stored in a transparent glass vessel at room temperature at least for one week.
  • the stability of the composition was visually observed and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
  • Stable The uniformity of the emulsion was maintained.
  • Unstable The uniformity of the emulsion was not maintained.
  • the mixture was not liquid at the starting temperature, the mixture was heated. The temperature reading at the peak on the melting curve (during heating) was taken as the melting point of the mixture.
  • the mixture was liquid at the starting temperature, the mixture was cooled. The temperature reading at the first freezing point was taken as the melting point of the mixture.
  • compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 2 in the form of a W/O emulsion, was stored in a transparent vessel at 4 °C, 25 °C and 45 °C for one week.
  • the stability of the composition was visually observed and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria. Stable: The uniformity of the emulsion was maintained. Unstable: The uniformity of the emulsion was not maintained.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition sous la forme d'une émulsion E/H, comprenant : (a) au moins une huile, (b) au moins un émulsifiant, et (c) de l'eau, le point de fusion d'un mélange de ladite au moins une huile (a) et dudit au moins un émulsifiant (b) étant compris entre 5 °C et 50 °C, et la quantité d'eau (c) dans la composition étant de 50 % en poids ou plus, de préférentiellement de 60 % en poids ou plus, et plus préférentiellement de 70 % en poids ou plus, par rapport au poids total de la composition. La composition sous la forme d'une émulsion E/H selon la présente invention est stable de sorte qu'elle peut maintenir sa structure E/H pendant une longue période.
PCT/JP2020/039201 2019-10-30 2020-10-09 Émulsion à phase aqueuse interne élevée WO2021085197A1 (fr)

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WO2024095947A1 (fr) * 2022-11-01 2024-05-10 株式会社マンダム Composition cosmétique en émulsion eau dans l'huile

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