WO2015014628A1 - Composition comprenant un système de libération déclenchée - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un système de libération déclenchée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015014628A1
WO2015014628A1 PCT/EP2014/065379 EP2014065379W WO2015014628A1 WO 2015014628 A1 WO2015014628 A1 WO 2015014628A1 EP 2014065379 W EP2014065379 W EP 2014065379W WO 2015014628 A1 WO2015014628 A1 WO 2015014628A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
skin
degradable material
actives
enzymatically degradable
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2014/065379
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Coralie Claudine Alonso
Stuart Anthony Barnett
Martin Peter Cropper
Edward George Pelan
Katherine Mary Thompson
Nicolaas Jan Zuidam
Original Assignee
Unilever Plc
Unilever N.V.
Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever
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Application filed by Unilever Plc, Unilever N.V., Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever filed Critical Unilever Plc
Publication of WO2015014628A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015014628A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/56—Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, which is suitable for application to the axillary skin, comprising particles that comprise a release system that is triggered by enzymes naturally present on the skin.
  • the invention further relates to the manufacture of said composition and its use.
  • the release of active components and/or benefit agents from personal care products, one example being deodorants is important in delivering good performance from such products.
  • the mechanism and timing of release can have a major impact on the benefit derived during product use.
  • Active components and benefit agents may be encapsulated in the form of particles, such that release of the encapsulated material is effected by a trigger, for example shear force, change in conditions, and so on.
  • Particles may be prepared that comprise different release systems in order to effectively release active compounds or benefit agents at particular points in time during use.
  • WO 2009/126742 (Appian Labs, 15/10/2009) discloses the release of active ingredients from microcapsules by the exposure to metalloproteinase.
  • IN 2009DE00656 (Council of Sci & Ind Res.) discloses hybrid conjugates of a skin care molecule and perfume molecule that is cleaved by enzymes in human skin.
  • fragrance molecules by enzymatic cleavage of the end groups on
  • polycaprolactone-polydecalactone copolymers by skin enzymes. The activity occurs when the polymers are applied topically to hair or skin.
  • hyperbranched polymer microencapsulates containing cosmetic/dermatogical ingredients that are degraded by skin enzymes.
  • the pro-fragrance approach suffers the disadvantage that only single fragrance notes are released.
  • the encapsulation of the present invention allows the release of a fully balanced and hedonically
  • the targeted systems of the present invention can be used to effectively mask microbially driven malodour
  • fragrance payload is not released and lost through volatility at times before the bacterial growth and malodour is most pronounced.
  • the invention provides a composition, which is not an ethanolic based deodorant spray composition, for treating axilla skin, wherein the skin has a naturally occurring enzyme population comprising protease and/or lipase, wherein the composition comprises:- a) a particle, having a particle size of from 1 to 100 microns, comprising
  • an insoluble enzymatically degradable material preferably natural, wherein the enzymatically degradable material is degraded by a protease enzyme
  • a hydrophobic benefit agent selected from a fragrance, a skin care agent, an anti-oxidant, a vitamin, an anti-fungal agent, an antiinflammatory active , a skin conditioning agent, a sunscreen and mixtures thereof; and an active ingredient selected from surfactants, polymers, moisturisers, humectants and emollients, antimicrobials, antiperspirant actives, deodoarant actives, skin health actives, and mixtures thereof.
  • a method of treating axilla skin wherein the skin has a naturally occurring enzyme population comprising protease comprising applying to the skin a composition, which is not an ethanolic based deodorant spray composition, wherein the composition comprises:- a) a particle, having a particle size of from 0.1 to 100 microns, comprising i) an insoluble enzymatically degradable material, preferably natural, wherein the enzymatically degradable material is degraded by protease enzyme; and
  • a hydrophobic benefit agent selected from a fragrance, an skin care agent, an anti-oxidant, a vitamin, an anti-fungal agent, an antiinflammatory active, a skin conditioning agent, a sunscreen and mixtures thereof; and b) an active ingredient selected from surfactants, polymers, moisturisers, humectants and emollients, antimicrobials, antiperspirant actives, deodoarant actives, skin health actives, and mixtures thereof
  • a third aspect of the invention provides a process for treating an axilla surface; said surface producing protease enzymes; wherein the process comprises the step of treating the surface with a composition as defined by the first aspect of the invention.
  • the Particle Preferred particles are encapsulates (in the following passages, the particles may also be referred to as "microcapsule(s)", “encap(s)", or “capsule(s)”).
  • the particle is an encapsulate
  • it is preferably of a core-shell structure, such as a simple particle or complex coacervate; or a matrix particle, most preferably a matrix particle.
  • Encapsulation can provide pore vacancies or interstitial openings depending on the encapsulation techniques employed.
  • the capsules may have a hollow nature.
  • the capsules may be solid porous structures, or a solid infrastructure, for example a "sponge" type encap.
  • Core-shell type encapsulates preferably have a volume average particle size in the range from 10 to 100 microns, more preferably from 20 to 75 microns and most preferably from 30 to 60 microns.
  • the encapsulate has a matrix structure, for example where it is lipid derived, it preferably has a volume average particle size of from 0.1 to 100 microns, more preferably from 1 to 50 microns and most preferably from 5 to 30 microns.
  • the capsule distribution can be narrow, broad or multimodal. Multimodal distributions may be composed of different types of capsule chemistries.
  • the particle comprises a benefit agent, which is hydrophobic, and an
  • the particle is broken down by action of protease enzymes on the enzymatically degradable material. This leads to release of the hydrophobic benefit agent.
  • the particle is suitable for use in compositions for the treatment of hair and skin, including compositions for use on, for example skin having dandruff or dry skin conditions.
  • the particle can be applied from personal care products such as deodorants, anti-perspirant products (aqueous and/or anhydrous), body washes, creams and lotions etc.
  • personal care products such as deodorants, anti-perspirant products (aqueous and/or anhydrous), body washes, creams and lotions etc.
  • the composition may be for direct
  • the particle comprises at least one insoluble enzymatically degradable material, which is degraded by a protease enzyme.
  • the enzymatically degradable material is biodegradable.
  • the enzymatically degradable material may be natural or synthetic, preferably natural.
  • Preferred natural protease degradable materials are selected from natural animal derived proteins and natural plant derived proteins. Non-limiting examples include collagen, gelatin, casein, albumin, gluten, zein, soy protein, keratin and silk.
  • a class of encapsulate useful for the present invention are complex coacervates formed from gelatine and an anionic polyelectrolyte, typically selected from sodium carboxymethylcellulose, alginate, pectin, acacia, carrageenan or dextran sulphate.
  • the complex coacervate particle may be cross-linked, for example by reaction with an aldehyde or dialdehyde to improve mechanical robustness.
  • Preferred synthetic materials include aliphatic poly(amides) such as Nylons and aromatic polyamides (poly[aramides]), more preferable aliphatic poly(amides).
  • the materials may be homopolymers, where the amino and carbonyl acid reacting groups are on the same monomer, or copolymers produced from reaction of di- or tri-carbonyl compounds and di- or tri-amines.
  • the carbonyl compounds may be carboxylic acid or more preferably acid chlorides.
  • said polyamide polymer may comprise at least one water miscible monomer and one water immiscible organic monomer.
  • said water miscible monomer may comprise a material selected from the group consisting of a diamine, a triamine and mixtures thereof.
  • said diamines and triamines may be selected from the group consisting of diethylene triamine, hexamethylene diamine, ethylene diamine and mixtures thereof.
  • said water immiscible organic monomer may be selected from the group consisting of diacyl chlorides, triacyl chlorides and mixtures thereof.
  • said diacyl chlorides may be selected from the group consisting of sebacoyl dichloride, adipoyl dichloride, and mixtures thereof and said triacyl chlorides may be selected from the group consisting of teraphthaloyl chloride, trimesoyl chloride, acetyl chloride, benzoyl chloride, 1 , 3, 5-benzentricarbonyl chloride, and mixtures thereof.
  • said polyamide polymer may comprise two or more water miscible monomers.
  • suitable synthestic polyamides include materials such as nylon 6 (polycaprolactam), nylon 12 (polylaurolactam), nylon 6:6
  • Suitable cosmetic grade porous matrix polyamide particles are supplied by Kobo Products Ltd. under the trade name MicrospheresTM and by Evonik Degussa under the trade name Tegolon®.
  • the enzymatically degradable moiety may be incorporated either in the polymer backbone or in the form of a cross-linking or spacer group.
  • biodegradable polymers with protease sensitive amide cross-linkers are described in US patent 201 1/0274682.
  • a further class of synthetic encapsulating material may combine both amide and ester linkages in a poly(ester-amide). Certain suitable materials are disclosed in US6221397. Other suitable poly(amide) and poly(ester-amide) materials are manufactured by Arizona Chemical under the trade name SylvaclearTM.
  • a preferred method of preparation is as described in US Pat. No. 6,045,835.
  • an aqueous solution of a cationic polymer for example gelatin or a closely related cationic polymer, is formed at an elevated temperature that is high enough to dissolve the gelatine, commonly at least 40°C and in many instances it is unnecessary to exceed 70°C. A range of 40 to 60°C is preferred.
  • the solution is typically dilute, often falling in the range from 1 to 10% w/w and particularly from 2 to 5%.
  • an oil-in-water emulsion is formed by the introduction of a hydrophobic benefit agent, for example a perfume oil, optionally together with a diluent oil if desired.
  • a hydrophobic benefit agent for example a perfume oil
  • a diluent oil if desired.
  • a polyanion of like negatively charged polymer is introduced and the composition diluted until a pH is attained of below the isoelectronic point of the system, such as below pH 5, and in particular from pH 3.5 to pH 4.5, whereupon a complex coacervate forms around the dispersed hydrophobic benefit agent droplets.
  • the polyanion commonly comprises gum arabic or a charged carboxymethyl cellulose derivative, such as an alkali metal salt, preferably the sodium salt.
  • the resultant shell is subsequently cross-linked with a short chain aliphatic dialdehyde, for example a C4 to C6 dialdehyde, including in particular
  • the cross-linking step is commonly conducted at a temperature of below ambient such as from 5 to 15°C, and in particular in the region of 10°C.
  • Representative weights and proportions of the reactants and of suitable operating conditions are shown in Examples, 1 , 2 or 3 of the aforementioned US Pat. No. 6,045,835.
  • the skilled person by suitable selection of the parameters within the general process outlined therein is well capable of producing capsules having a volume average particle size in the range from 30 to 100 microns, particularly up to 75 microns and especially 40 to 60 microns.
  • a second encapsulation method, suitable for forming encapsulated hydrophobic benefit agents, such as perfumes, in which the shell comprises a cross-linked coacervated gelatine comprises variations of the above process, as contemplated in WO2006/056096.
  • microcapsules comprising a blank hydrogel shell are first formed in a dry state and brought into contact with an aqueous of aqueous/alcoholic mixture of a fragrance compound, which may be diluted with a diluent oil.
  • the fragrance (or other hydrophobic benefit agent) compound is transported through the hydrogel shell by aqueous diffusion and is retained inside.
  • the resultant fragrance-containing microcapsules are then dried to a powder, which for practical purposes is anhydrous.
  • a preferred ratio of fragrance oil to diluents oil is in the range of from 1 :2 to 1 :1 , more preferably 3:4 to 1 :1 , for fragrance to diluents oils.
  • microcapsules made via the simple or complex coacervation of gelatin are also preferred for use with the coating.
  • Microcapsules having shell walls comprised of polyesters or combinations of these materials are also possible.
  • a representative process used for gelatin encapsulation is disclosed in U.S.
  • Patent No, 2,800,457 though it is recognized that many variations with regard to materials and process steps are possible. Both of these processes are discussed in the context of fragrance encapsulation for use in consumer products in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,145,184 and 5,1 12,688 respectively.
  • Core-shell nylon capsules containing perfume may be prepared using the following method :-
  • Step 1 The following liquids were prepared:-
  • Liquid A 2.4 ml perfume and 0.27 g terephthaloyl chloride were mixed until the terephthaloyl chloride dissolved to obtain an oily liquid.
  • Water solution B 30 ml deionised water containing 1 wt% polyvinyl alcohol (5- 88) was prepared and the pH adjusted to desired value using 1 M NaOH.
  • Step 2 Liquid A was then added to solution B under homogenization at 6000 rpm and the mixture emulsified for 5 min.
  • Solution C was then added dropwise into the emulsion and homogenization was continued for 10 min.
  • the resulting suspension of polyamide capsules, was allowed to age for 24 h to obtain a capsule slurry.
  • Suitable lipase sensitive poly(ester) particles may be prepared by a variety of processes such as those described by F Tewes, F Boury and J-P Benoit in "Microencapsulation: Methods and Industrial Applications", 2 nd edition, ed. S Benita, CRC Press, 2006, Taylor & Francis Group, Boca Raton, pp. 1 -54, including the so-called solvent diffusion, emulsification/solvent evaporation route, coacervation and spray drying. Methodologies for preparing sub-micron particles have been reviewed K
  • Preferred methods include a combined emulsion/solvent evaporation with miniemulsion technique reported to be especially useful for encapsulation of actives in pre-formed biodegradable polymers, as reported in F V Leimann, M H Biz, A Musyanovych, C Sayer, K Landfester and P H H de Araujo, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Volume 128, Issue 5, 2013, pp. 3093-3098.
  • one or more additional coatings of a protease sensitive material may be applied to a pre-formed particle or capsule.
  • a polyester coating could be applied to the outside of a gelatine based complex coacervate.
  • the capsules may be used in the form of a slurry, which preferably comprises about 40% solids.
  • the amount of such a 40% capsule slurry to be used in a composition is up to 10 %, preferably from 0.1 to 5 %, more preferably from 1 to 2 % by weight of the total composition.
  • Amount of capsules, based on dry weight, by weight of the total composition is preferably from 0.04 to 4 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt % and most preferably from 0.2 to 2 wt %.
  • the benefit agent is present in encapsulated form. It may also be present in non-encapsulated (free) form.
  • the following materials are suitable for both forms.
  • the benefit agent is a hydrophobic material, selected from a fragrance, an skin care agent, an anti-oxidant, a vitamin, an anti-fungal agent, an anti-inflammatory active, , a skin conditioning agent, a sunscreen and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable benefit agents include perfume raw materials, silicone oils, waxes, hydrocarbons, higher fatty acids, essential oils, lipids, skin coolants, vitamins, sunscreens, antioxidants, glycerine, malodour reducing agents, odour controlling materials, softening agents, insect and moth repelling agents, colourants, chelants, bodyfying agents, wrinkle control agents, sanitization agents, skin care agents, glycerine, natural actives, preservatives, , chemosensates, (for example menthol), sunless-tanning agents (for example dihydroxyacetone), emollients (for example sunflower oil and pertrolatum) and mixtures thereof.
  • Skin for example topical composition
  • emollients for example sunflower oil and pertrolatum
  • the preferred benefit agents include one or more of fragrances, skin lightening agents, skin conditioning agents, for example 12- hydroxy stearic acid, antimicrobials, oils and insect repellents.
  • Preferred sunscreens and/or skin lightening agents are vitamin B3 compounds.
  • Suitable vitamin B3 compounds are selected from niacin, niacinamide, nicotinyl alcohol, or derivatives or salts thereof.
  • Other vitamins which act as skin lightening agents can be advantageously included in the skin lightening composition to provide for additional skin lightening effects. These include vitamin B6, vitamin C, vitamin A or their precursors. Mixtures of the vitamins can also be employed in the composition for use in the method of the invention.
  • An especially preferred additional vitamin is vitamin B6.
  • skin lightening agents useful herein include adapalene, aloe extract, ammonium lactate, arbutin, azelaic acid, butyl hydroxy anisole, butyl hydroxy toluene, citrate esters, deoxyarbutin, 1 ,3 diphenyl propane derivatives, 2, 5 di-hydroxyl benzoic acid and its derivatives, 2-(4-acetoxyphenyl)-1 ,3-dithane, 2-(4- hydroxylphenyl)-1 ,3 diethane, ellagic acid, glue- pyranosyl-1 -ascorbate, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, green tea extract, 4-Hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, hydroquinone, 4- hydroxyanisole and its derivatives, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid derivatives,
  • hydroxycaprylic acid inositol ascorbate, kojic acid, lactic acid, lemon extract, linoleic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, 2,4 resorcinol derivatives, 3,5 resorcinol derivatives, salicylic acid, 3,4,5
  • sunscreens useful in the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, octyl dimethyl-p- aminobenzoic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • Particularly preferred sunscreen is chosen from 2-ethyl hexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 4,- t-butyl-4'- methoxydibenzoyl- methane or mixtures thereof.
  • UV-B filters such as 2- ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (sold commercially under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM)
  • UV-A filters such as benzophenone or 4-tert-butyl-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone, sold commercially under the trade name Parsol 1789 by DSM).
  • Antioxidants, anti-ageing actives and anti-inflammatory actives are antioxidants, anti-ageing actives and anti-inflammatory actives
  • Suitable actives include Retinol (Vitamin A), ascorbyl palmitate (Vitamin C palmitate), Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D3), tocopheryl (Vitamin E) acetate, Vitamin E palmitate, linoleic acid (Vitamin F), carotenoids such as beta-carotene and curcumin, phenols and polyphenols (e.g. resveratrol).
  • Preferred anti-oxidants include vitamin E, retinol, antioxiants based on
  • hydroxytoluene such as IrganoxTM or commercially available antioxidants such as the TrolloxTM series.
  • Perfume and fragrance materials are a particularly preferred benefit agent.
  • the pro-fragrance can, for example, be a food lipid.
  • Food lipids typically contain structural units with pronounced hydrophobicity. The majority of lipids are derived from fatty acids. In these 'acyl' lipids the fatty acids are predominantly present as esters and include mono-, di-, triacyl glycerols, phospholipids, glycolipids, diol lipids, waxes, sterol esters and tocopherols.
  • plant lipids comprise antioxidants to prevent their oxidation. While these may be at least in part removed during the isolation of oils from plants some antioxidants may remain. These antioxidants can be pro-fragrances.
  • the carotenoids and related compounds including vitamin A, retinol, retinal, retinoic acid and provitamin A are capable of being converted into fragrant species including the ionones, damascones and damscenones.
  • Preferred pro-fragrance food lipids include olive oil, palm oil, canola oil, squalene, sunflower seed oil, wheat germ oil, almond oil, coconut oil, grape seed oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, safflower oil, groundnut oil, poppy seed oil, palm kernel oil, rice bran oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, jojoba oil and mustard seed oil.
  • Perfume components which are odiferous materials are described in further detail below.
  • the perfume is typically present in an amount of from 10-85% by total weight of the particle, preferably from 15 to 75% by total weight of the particle.
  • the perfume suitably has a molecular weight of from 50 to 500Dalton. Pro-fragrances can be of higher molecular weight, being typically 1 -10 kD.
  • Useful components of the perfume include materials of both natural and synthetic origin. They include single compounds and mixtures. Specific examples of such components may be found in the current literature, e.g., in Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavour Ingredients, 1975, CRC Press; Synthetic Food Adjuncts, 1947 by
  • perfume in this context is not only meant a fully formulated product fragrance, but also selected components of that fragrance, particularly those which are prone to loss, such as the so-called 'top notes'.
  • Top notes are defined by Poucher (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 6(2):80 [1955]). Examples of well known top-notes include citrus oils, linalool, linalyl acetate, lavender, dihydromyrcenol, rose oxide and cis-3-hexanol. Top notes typically comprise 15-25%wt of a perfume composition and in those embodiments of the invention which contain an increased level of top-notes it is envisaged at that least 20%wt would be present within the particle.
  • embodiments of the present invention include those with a relatively low boiling point, preferably those with a boiling point of less than 300, preferably 100-250 Celsius.
  • perfume components which have a low LogP (i.e. those which will be partitioned into water), preferably with a LogP of less than 3.0.
  • materials of relatively low boiling point and relatively low LogP have been called the "delayed blooming" perfume ingredients and include the following materials: Allyl Caproate, Amyl Acetate, Amyl Propionate, Anisic Aldehyde, Anisole,
  • Methyl Eugenol Methyl Heptenone, Methyl Heptine Carbonate, Methyl Heptyl Ketone, Methyl Hexyl Ketone, Methyl Phenyl Carbinyl Acetate, Methyl Salicylate, Methyl-N-Methyl Anthranilate, Nerol, Octalactone, Octyl Alcohol, p- Cresol, p-Cresol Methyl Ether, p-Methoxy Acetophenone, p-Methyl
  • perfume components it is envisaged that there will be four or more, preferably five or more, more preferably six or more or even seven or more different perfume components from the list given of delayed blooming perfumes given above present in the particles.
  • compositions herein contain both encapsulated fragrance and non- encapsulated fragrance.
  • the combined weight of encapsulated and non- encapsulated fragrance is often at least 0.5% of the total composition weight and in many suitable compositions is up to 8% by weight thereof, and in many desirable embodiments is from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the weight of non-encapsulated fragrance is commonly at least 0.1 % by weight of the total composition weight, often at least 0.2% and particularly at least 0.4%.
  • the compositions contain up to 2% non-encapsulated fragrance based on the total composition weight (propellant-free).
  • the weight ratio of the encapsulated fragrance to non-encapsulated fragrance is at the discretion of the formulator, but in practice is often at least 1 :10, in many compositions at least 1 :5 and in some preferred compositions at least 1 :3. Said weight ratio is commonly up to 10:1 , often up to 5:1 and in at least some desirable compositions is up to 3:1 .
  • the respective fragrances can comprise any perfume component or preferably a mixture of components.
  • Each fragrance commonly comprises at least 6 components, particularly at least 12 components and often at least 20 components.
  • the perfume component oils herein commonly have a ClogP value of at least 0.1 and often at least 0.5.
  • fragrance oils having a boiling point of below 250°C at 1 bar pressure include the following materials:- anethol, methyl heptine carbonate, ethyl aceto acetate, para cymene, nerol, decyl aldehyde, para cresol, methyl phenyl carbinyl acetate, ionone alpha, ionone beta, undecylenic aldehyde, undecyl aldehyde, 2,6-nonadienal, nonyl aldehyde, octyl aldehyde, phenyl acetaldehyde, anisic aldehyde, benzyl acetone, ethyl-2-methyl butyrate, damascenone, damascone alpha, damascone beta, flor acetate, frutene, fructone, herbavert, iso cyclo citrai, methyl isobutenyl te
  • nonalactone cis 1 ,3-oxathiane-2-methyl-4-propyl, benzaldehyde, benzyl acetate, camphor, carvone, borneol, bornyl acetate, decyl alcohol, eucalyptol, linalool, hexyl acetate, iso-amyl acetate, thymol, carvacrol, limonene, menthol, iso-amyl alcohol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, alpha pinene, alpha terpineol, citronellol, alpha thujone, benzyl alcohol, beta gamma hexenol, dimethyl benzyl carbinol, phenyl ethyl dimethyl carbinol, adoxal, allyl cyclohexane propionate, beta pinene, citral, citronellyl acetate, citronellal
  • fragrance oils having a boiling point at 1 bar pressure of at least 250°C include:- ethyl methyl phenyl glycidate, ethyl vanillin, heliotropin, indol, methyl anthranilate, vanillin, amyl salicylate, coumarin, ambrox, bacdanol, benzyl salicylate, butyl anthranilate, cetalox, ebanol, cis-3-hexenyl salicylate, lilial, gamma undecalactone, gamma dodecalactone, gamma decalactone, calone, cymal, dihydro iso jasmonate, iso eugenol, lyral, methyl beta naphthyl ketone, beta naphthol methyl ether, para hydroxy I phenyl butanone, 8-cyclohexadecen-1 - one, oxocyclohexade
  • exaltolide/cyclopentadecanolide zingerone, methyl cedrylone, sandela, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl isobutyrate, triethyl citrate, cashmeran, phenoxy ethyl isobutyrate, iso eugenol acetate, helional, iso E super, ionone gamma methyl, pentalide, galaxolide, phenoxy ethyl propionate.
  • the fragrances employed herein, either into the capsules or not encapsulated can comprise a pre-formed blend, either extracted from natural products, or possibly created synthetically.
  • Aromatherapy includes oils from:- Bergamot, cedar atlas, cedar wood, clove, geranium, guaiac wood, jasmine, lavender, lemongrass, lily of the valley, lime, neroli, musk, orange blossom, patchouli, peach blossom, petitgrain or petotgrain, pimento, rose, rosemary, and thyme.
  • perfumes with which the present invention can be applied are the so-called 'aromatherapy' materials. These include many components also used in perfumery, including components of essential oils such as Clary Sage, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Lavender, Mace Extract, Neroli, Nutmeg, Spearmint, Sweet Violet Leaf and Valerian.
  • the benefit agent may also be an insect repellent material (where insect should be read broadly to include other pests which are arthropods but not strictly hexapods - for example ticks). Many of these materials overlap with the class of perfume components and some are odourless to humans or have a non-perfume odour.
  • repellents include: DEET (N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide), essential oil of the lemon eucalyptus (Corymbia citriodora) and its active compound p-menthane-3,8-diol (PMD), lcaridin, also known as Picaridin, D- Limonene, Bayrepel, and KBR 3023, Nepetalactone, also known as "catnip oil”, Citronella oil, Permethrin, Neem oil and Bog Myrtle.
  • Known insect repellents derived from natural sources include: Achillea alpina, alpha-terpinene, Basil oil (Ocimum basilicum), Callicarpa americana (Beautyberry), Camphor, Carvacrol, Castor oil (Ricinus communis), Catnip oil (Nepeta species), Cedar oil (Cedrus atlantica), Celery extract (Apium graveolens), Cinnamon (Cinnamomum
  • the particle optionally comprises a carrier oil (also referred to herein as a diluent).
  • a carrier oil also referred to herein as a diluent.
  • oils are suitable for use with a certain benefit composition.
  • the carrier oils are hydrophobic materials that are miscible in the benefit agent materials used in the present invention.
  • Suitable oils are those having reasonable affinity for the benefit agent.
  • Suitable materials include, but are not limited to triglyceride oil, mono and diglycerides, mineral oil, silicone oil, diethyl phthalate, polyalpha olefins, castor oil and isopropyl myristate.
  • the oil is a triglyceride oil, most preferably a capric/caprylic triglyceride oil.
  • composition of the invention is for the treatment of an axilary surface.
  • the surface produces protease enzymes.
  • Protease enzyme classes suitable for use in the present invention, may be found in the MEROPS database (http://merops.sanger.ac.uk/) from the Wellcome Trust at the Sanger Institute. Natural skin proteases, particularly serine proteases, specifically kallikreins are referenced in the following documents:-
  • Suitable proteases include those classified by the European Classification number EC 3.4.21 .- (Serine Proteases), with preferred skin specific proteases classified as EC 3.4.21 .8: kallikreins.
  • the Active Ingredient includes those classified by the European Classification number EC 3.4.21 .- (Serine Proteases), with preferred skin specific proteases classified as EC 3.4.21 .8: kallikreins.
  • the active ingredient is for the treatment of skin or hair.
  • the active ingredient is selected from surfactants, polymers, moisturisers, humectants and emollients, antifungals, antiperspirant actives, deodoarant actives, skin health actives, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition may further comprise various additional ingredients known to a person skilled in the art.
  • additional ingredients include but are not limited to: perfumes, chemosensates, pigments or dyes, optical brighteners, preservatives, sunscreens, emulsifiers, gelling agents, thickening agents, humectants (e.g.
  • the active ingredient may be a surfactant, selected from anionic surfactant, non- ionic surfactant, cationic surfactant, zwitterionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition may comprise an alkyl sulphate and/or ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant, preferably at a level of from 2 to 16 wt.%, preferably from 3 to 14 wt.%, more preferably from 4 to 10 wt.%.
  • Preferred alkyl sulfates are Ce-ie alky sulfates, more preferably C12-18 alkyl sulfates, preferably in the form of a salt with a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium.
  • a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium.
  • Examples are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS).
  • Preferred alkyl ether sulfates are those having the formula: RO(CH 2 CH2O) n SO3M; wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having from 8 to 18 (preferably 12 to 18) carbon atoms; n is a number having an average value of greater than at least 0.5, preferably between 1 and 3; and M is a solubilising cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium.
  • SLES sodium lauryl ether sulfate
  • a preferred ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant is sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) having an average degree of ethoxylation of from 0.5 to 3, preferably 1 to 3.
  • Compositions may comprise one or more further anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
  • further suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkaryl sulphonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts.
  • the alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be
  • alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.
  • Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulphonate, triethanolamine
  • dodecyl benzene sulphonate lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.
  • Suitable preferred additional anionic cleansing surfactants are sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is from 10 to 20).
  • the total amount of additional anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositions of the invention may generally range from 0.5 to 45 wt.%, preferably from 1 .5 to 35 wt.%, more preferably from 5 to 20 wt.%, calculated by total weight anionic cleansing surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.
  • a co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 8%, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in compositions of the invention include condensation products of aliphatic (Cs - Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.
  • nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and coco mono- isopropanolamide.
  • Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs).
  • APG alkyl polyglycosides
  • the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups.
  • Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula: wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group. R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C 5 to about C20.
  • R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about Cs to about C12. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5.
  • G may be selected from C 5 or C6 monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose.
  • the degree of polymerisation, n may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more; preferably, the value of n lies from about 1 .1 to about 2; most preferably the value of n lies from about 1 .3 to about 1 .5.
  • Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.
  • compositions of the invention include the C10-C18 N-alkyl (Ci-Ce) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C12-C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in WO 92/06154 and US 5,194, 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C10-C18 N- (3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.
  • C10-C18 N-alkyl (Ci-Ce) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides such as the C12-C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in WO 92/06154 and US 5,194, 639
  • N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides such as C10-C18 N- (3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.
  • a preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably from 0.5 to 8, more preferably from 1 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate.
  • a particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine. Mixtures of any of the foregoing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may also be suitable. Preferred mixtures are those of cocamidopropyl betaine with further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as described above. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.
  • the total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or any emulsifier) in a composition of the invention is generally from 1 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, more preferably from 10 to 25% by total weight surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions for use in the invention may contain one or more other ingredients.
  • ingredients include further preservatives (e.g. bactericides), pH buffering agents, perfume carriers, polyelectrolytes, anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, sunscreens, anti-corrosion agents, pearlisers and/or opacifiers, natural oils/extracts, processing aids, eg electrolytes, hygiene agents, eg anti-bacterials and antifungals, thickeners, skin benefit agents, colourants, whiteners, gel-control agents, freeze-thaw stabilisers, bactericides, preservatives (for example 1 ,2- benzisothiazolin-3-one), hydrotropes, perfumes and mixtures thereof.
  • preservatives e.g. bactericides
  • pH buffering agents e.g. bactericides
  • perfume carriers e.g. bactericides
  • polyelectrolytes e.g. bactericides
  • anti-wrinkle agents e.
  • compositions for use in the invention may also contain pH modifiers such as hydrochloric acid or lactic acid.
  • pH modifiers such as hydrochloric acid or lactic acid.
  • the antiperspirant or deodorant compositions can additionally comprise an aqueous phase, and commonly together with an oil phase, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.
  • the aqueous phase commonly constitutes from 10 % and particularly from 30% by weight of the total composition, often up to 97% by weight.
  • the balance of the composition comprises the oil phase, including any suspended material and the emulsifier or emulsifiers.
  • Emulsions according to the present invention particularly suitably comprise shear-sensitive encapsulated fragrance.
  • the composition preferably contains an antiperspirant active.
  • Antiperspirant actives are preferably incorporated in an amount of from 0.5-50%, particularly from 5 to 30% and especially from 10% to 26% of the weight of the composition. It is often considered that the main benefit from incorporating of up to 5% of an antiperspirant active in a stick composition is manifest in reducing body odour, and that as the proportion of antiperspirant active increases, so the efficacy of that composition at controlling perspiration increases.
  • Antiperspirant actives for use herein are often selected from astringent active salts, including in particular aluminium, zirconium and mixed aluminium/zirconium salts, including both inorganic salts, salts with organic anions and complexes. Preferred astringent salts include aluminium, zirconium and aluminium/zirconium halides and halohydrate salts, such as chlorohydrates.
  • Aluminium halohydrates are usually defined by the general formula
  • Al2(OH) x Qy-WH 2 O in which Q represents chlorine, bromine or iodine, x is variable from 2 to 5 and x + y 6 while wH 2 0 represents a variable amount of hydration.
  • Especially effective aluminium halohydrate salts, known as activated aluminium chlorohydrates, are described in EP-A-6739 (Unilever NV et al).
  • Zirconium actives can usually be represented by the empirical general formula: ZrO(OH)2n-nzB z .wH 2 0 in which z is a variable in the range of from 0.9 to 2.0 so that the value 2n-nz is zero or positive, n is the valency of B, and B is selected from the group consisting of chloride, other halide, sulphamate, sulphate and mixtures thereof. Possible hydration to a variable extent is represented by wH 2 0. Preferable is that B represents chloride and the variable z lies in the range from 1 .5 to 1 .87. In practice, such zirconium salts are usually not employed by themselves, but as a component of a combined aluminium and zirconium-based antiperspirant.
  • Antiperspirant complexes based on the above-mentioned astringent aluminium and/or zirconium salts can be employed.
  • the complex often employs a
  • amino acid examples include dl-tryptophan, dl- -phenylalanine, dl- valine, dl-methionine and ⁇ -alanine, and preferably glycine. It is highly desirable to employ complexes of a combination of aluminium halohydrates and zirconium chlorohydrates together with amino acids such as glycine, which are disclosed in US-A-3792068 (Luedders et al).
  • composition normally includes the weight of any water of hydration and any complexing agent that may also be present in the solid active.
  • at least 90%, preferably at least 95% and especially at least 99% by weight of the particles have a diameter in the range of from 0.1 pm up to 100pm, and usually have an average particle diameter of at least 1 pm and especially below 20pm.
  • the particles by weight have a weight average particle size of at least 2pm and particularly below 10pm, such as in the range of from 3 to 8pm.
  • compositions according to the invention may be emulsions. In such
  • the antiperspirant active is commonly dissolved in the aqueous phase, commonly at a weight concentration in that phase of between 10 and 55%. ln many suitable emulsions, the concentration of antiperspirant active is chosen in relation to the weight of oils (including any non-encapsulated fragrance oils), decreasing progressively from a ratio of about 3:1 to 5:1 when the proportion of oils is below 10% to a ratio in the range of 3:2 to 2:3 when the oils content is at least 50% of the total weight of the composition (excluding any propellant).
  • the invention compositions may include one or more thickeners or geiiants
  • compositions according to the invention may be stick compositions.
  • Such compositions desirably have a hardness as measured in a conventional penetration test (Seta) of less than 30mm, preferably less than 20 mm and particularly desirably less than 15 mm. Many have a penetration of from 7 to 13 or 7.5 to 10 or 12.5 mm.
  • the conventional penetration test employed herein utilises a lab plant penetrometer equipped with a Seta wax needle (weight 2.5 grams) which has a cone angle at the point of the needle specified to be 9°10' +/- 15'. A sample of the composition with a flat upper surface is used.
  • the needle is lowered onto the surface of the composition and then a penetration hardness measurement is conducted by allowing the needle with its holder to drop under the combined weight of needle and holder of 50 grams for a period of five seconds after which the depth of penetration is noted. Desirably the test is carried out at six points on each sample and the results are averaged.
  • the geiiants for forming stick compositions herein are usually selected from one or more of two classes: non-polymeric fibre-forming geiiants and waxes, optionally supplemented by incorporation of a particulate silica and/or an oil-soluble polymeric thickener.
  • Waxes when employed, are often selected from hydrocarbons, linear fatty alcohols, silicone polymers, esters of fatty acids or mixtures containing such compounds along with a minority (less than 50% w/w and often less than 20% w/w) of other compounds.
  • Non-polymeric fibre-forming gellants when employed, are typically dissolved in a water-immiscible blend of oils at elevated temperature and on cooling precipitate out to form a network of very thin strands that are typically no more than a few molecules wide.
  • One particularly effective category of such thickeners comprises N-acyl aminoacid amides and in particular linear and branched N-acyl glutamic acid dialkylamides, such as in particular N-lauroyl glutamic acid di n-butylamide and N-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid di n-butylamide and especially mixtures thereof.
  • Such amido gellants can be employed in anhydrous compositions according to the present invention, if desired, with 12-hydroxysteahc acid.
  • a gellant is often employed in a stick or soft solid composition at a concentration of from 1 .5 to 30%, depending on the nature of the gellant or gellants, the constitution of the oil blend and the extent of hardness desired.
  • the anhydrous compositions can contain one or more optional ingredients, such as one or more of those selected from those identified below.
  • Optional ingredients include wash-off agents, often present in an amount of up to 10% w/w to assist in the removal of the formulation from skin or clothing.
  • wash-off agents are typically non ionic surfactants such as esters or ethers containing a Cs to C22 alkyl moiety and a hydrophiiic moiety which can comprise a polyoxyalkylene group (POE or POP) and/or a polyol.
  • compositions herein can incorporate one or more cosmetic adjuncts.
  • Such adjuncts can include skin feel improvers, such as talc or finely divided (i.e. high molecular weight) polyethylene, i.e. not a wax, for example AccumistTM, in an amount of 1 up to about 10%; a moisturiser, such as glycerol or polyethylene glycol (mol wt 200 to 600), for example in an amount of up to about 5%; skin benefit agents such as allantoin or lipids, for example in an amount of up to 5%; colours; skin cooling agents other than the already mentioned alcohols, such a menthol and menthol derivatives, often in an amount of up to 2%, all of these percentages being by weight of the composition.
  • a further optional ingredient comprises a preservative, such as ethyl or methyl parabens or BHT (butyl hydroxy toluene) such as in an amount of from 0.01 to 0.1 % w/w.
  • compositions intended to be delivered from a roll -on dispenser or a pump spray conveniently comprise emulsions.
  • the total oil content is often less than 10% by weight of the total composition, for example comprising between 0.5 and 2% by weight of fragrance oils (non-encapsulated ) and from 1 to 6% by weight of other oils, selected for example from the carrier oils described hereinbefore. It is particularly suitable to employ from 1 to 5% by weight of a triglyceride oil, such as sunflower seed oil.
  • Emulsions commonly employ a non-ionic surfactant acting as an emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers providing an HLB value in the region of 6 to 10.
  • An especially desirable range of emulsifiers comprises a hydrophilic moiety provided by a polyalkylene oxide (polyglycol), particularly polyethylene oxide, such as containing 4 to 6 EO units or a mixture of 2-4 plus 10 to 30 EO units and a hydrophobic moiety provided by an aliphatic hydrocarbon, preferably containing at least 10 carbons and commonly linear.
  • the hydrophobic and hydrophilic moieties can be linked via an ester or ether linkage, possibly via an intermediate polyol such as glycerol.
  • the hydrophobic aliphatic substituent contains at least 12 carbons, and is derivable from lauryl, palmityl, cetyl, stearyl, olearyl and behenyl alcohol, and especially cetyl, stearyl or a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols or from the corresponding carboxylic acids.
  • the combination of emulsifiers comprises steareth-2 and a selection from steareth-15 to steareth-30.
  • the invention compositions desirably are substantially or totally free from water- soluble short chain monohydric alcohols (commonly recognised as up to Ce) and especially ethanol. Substantially in this context indicates a proportion of less than 5% and preferably less than 1 % by weight of the respective full or base composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may be aerosol compositions.
  • Such compositions herein comprise a base composition, namely a full composition except for a propellant mixed with a propellant.
  • the base composition commonly comprises the antiperspirant and/or deodorant active, the liquid carrier and often a suspending aid.
  • Many suitable aerosol compositions are anhydrous.
  • Such compositions typically have a proportion of carrier oils that is commonly from 50 to 95% by weight of the base composition, and the mixture commonly includes one or more volatile oils such as a volatile silicone oil and one or more non-volatile oils, often in a weight ratio of from 10:1 to 1 :2 and particularly from 5:1 to 1 :1 .
  • the concentration antiperspirant active in the base composition is often from 5% to 60% and especially 10% to 45% by weight.
  • One convenient process sequence for preparing a stick or soft composition according to the present invention comprises first forming a solution of the structurant combination in the water-immiscible liquid or one of the water- immiscible liquids. This is normally carried out by agitating the mixture at a temperature sufficiently high that all the structurants dissolve (the dissolution temperature) such as a temperature in a range from 70 to 140°C. Any oil-soluble cosmetic adjunct can be introduced into oil phase, either before or after the introduction of the gellants.
  • the fragrance oil is commonly the last ingredient to be incorporated into the composition, after the antiperspirant active on account of its sensitivity often to elevated temperature.
  • the resultant structurant solution is allowed to cool to a temperature that is
  • the carrier oils can be mixed together prior to introduction of the gellants and the antiperspirant or deodorant active.
  • it is desirable to dissolve all or a fraction of the gellants and especially for amido gellants in a first fraction of the composition such as a branched aliphatic alcohol, e.g. isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol, optionally in conjunction with an alcohol having some water-miscibility and boiling point above the dissolution temperature of the amido geiiant in the alcoholic fluid.
  • a first fraction of the composition such as a branched aliphatic alcohol, e.g. isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol, optionally in conjunction with an alcohol having some water-miscibility and boiling point above the dissolution temperature of the amido geiiant in the alcoholic fluid.
  • the fragrance capsules are most desirably introduced after any intensive mixing step.
  • the proportion of the carrier fluids for dissolving the structurants is often from 25 to 50% by weight of the carrier fluids.
  • the particulate material is introduced into preferably a second fraction of the carrier oils, for example silicone and/or ester and/or hydrocarbon oils and thereafter, and thereafter the first fraction containing dissolved structurant and second fraction containing
  • suspended particulate material are mixed at a temperature above that at which the composition gels, and often from 5°C to 30°C above the regular setting temperature of the composition, dispensing containers are filled and cooled or allowed to cool to ambient temperature.
  • Example 1 Preparation of lipid based microcapsules Lipid based microcapsules for use in these examples were prepared as follows:-
  • Gelucire 44/14 (1 .5 g; supplied by Gatte-Fosse), Stearic acid (0.2 g),
  • vitamin E acetate (3.15 g; supplied by DSM) and water (7.4 g) were placed in a beaker and warmed to 75°C with thorough mixing. The temperature was maintained using a water bath.
  • the volume size distribution of the capsules was 40 ⁇ and the fragrance content of the capsules was 40%.
  • Example 2 - in vitro degradation of gelatin based microcapsules
  • composition and method for preparing the glutaraldehyde cross-linked gelatine based microcapsules is described above whereby oil filled blank glutaraldehyde cross-linked gelatin shells are prepared and a fragrance oil is added and allowed to diffuse through the shell.
  • AlcalaseTM L (Sigma Aldrich cat. no. P4860; Novozymes) was considered a relevant model for proteases of both bacterial and human origin to carry out testing of microcapsules for susceptibility to enzyme hydrolysis. Enzyme incubation was carried out in freshly prepared pH 6 (25 mM) MES [2-(N- morpholino)ethane-sulfonic acid] buffer at 37°C.
  • a suspension of 10 mg encap solids was prepared in 25 mM of MES buffer with pH adjusted at 6.
  • the release of protein into solution due to protease digestion of the gelatin capsules was determined using the Bio-Rad DC protein assay kit (Bio-Rad Laboratories; Hercules, California, US). Following enzyme hydrolysis, encap suspensions were first syringe-filtered through a 0.2 ⁇ PTFE membrane filter. Protein concentration was determined spectrophotometrically at 750nm.
  • Example 3 in vivo degradation of gelatine based microcapsules
  • aqueous dispersion of microcapsules (1 .5% w/w) was prepared in a viscous suspending liquid (1 % Klucel M hydroxypropylcellulose, ex. Aqualon).
  • a 15 x 5 cm area of living human skin was first washed with a mild soap based detergent.
  • aqueous solution of microcapsules was then applied to the washed or sterilised skin at a dosage of 30 mg, applied by pipette and gently spread over the skin.
  • Application to the washed only skin was in accordance with the process of the invention (designated 1 ); application to the washed and sterilised skin was a control (designate A).
  • a statistical program was used to perform an Analysis of Variance on the fragrance scores (implemented with the SAS General Linear Models procedure), using a model incorporating fixed effects of subject, day, side, assessor and treatment.
  • the minimum difference required for significance at the 5% and 1 % level was estimated from the model error and compared to the actual difference between the least square means calculated for each treatment.
  • the treatment difference was deemed to be significant when the least square means differed by more than the minimum significant difference.
  • Table 2 Fragrance intensity arising from washed and sterilised skin treated with enzyme sensitive gelatin encaps containing perfume.
  • Example 1 in accordance with the invention, has significantly higher perfume intensity.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, qui n'est pas une composition d'aérosol déodorant à base d'éthanol, pour traiter la peau des aisselles, la peau ayant une population d'enzymes d'origine naturelle comprenant une protéase et/ou une lipase, la composition comprenant : - a) une particule, ayant une taille de particule de 1 à 100 microns, comprenant i) un matériau insoluble dégradable par voie enzymatique, de préférence naturel, le matériau dégradable par voie enzymatique étant dégradé par une enzyme protéase ; et ii) un agent bénéfique hydrophobe choisi parmi un parfum, un agent de soin de la peau, un antioxydant, une vitamine, un agent antifongique, une substance active anti-inflammatoire, un agent de conditionnement de la peau, un écran solaire et des mélanges de ceux-ci ; et b) une substance active choisie parmi des tensioactifs, des polymères, des hydratants, des humectants et des émollients, des antimicrobiens, des substances actives antisudorifiques, des substances actives déodorantes, des substances actives pour la santé de la peau, et des mélanges de ceux-ci.
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EP3261724B1 (fr) * 2015-02-25 2021-04-28 Symrise AG Dispersion de parfum pour compositions détergentes
WO2021115600A1 (fr) 2019-12-12 2021-06-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents de lavage et de nettoyage comprenant des microcapsules écologiquement compatibles
WO2021116432A1 (fr) 2019-12-12 2021-06-17 Papierfabrik August Koehler Se Systèmes de microcapsule biodégradable
EP4101528A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2022-12-14 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Milieu contenant des microcapsules dégradables de couleur neutre
EP4101529A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2022-12-14 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Milieu contenant des microcapsules dégradables de couleur neutre avec composition de parfum
WO2022258118A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2022-12-15 Koehler Innovation & Technology Gmbh Microcapsules dégradables de couleur neutre
WO2022258808A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2022-12-15 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Compositions contenant des microcapsules dégradables neutres en couleur
DE102021214457A1 (de) 2021-12-15 2023-06-15 Koehler Innovation & Technology Gmbh Mikrokapseldispersionen mit Emulgator
EP4198113A1 (fr) 2021-12-15 2023-06-21 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Milieu contenant un émulsifiant et des microcapsules
EP4198114A1 (fr) 2021-12-15 2023-06-21 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Agent contenant un émulsifiant et des microcapsules
EP4198115A1 (fr) 2021-12-15 2023-06-21 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Milieu contenant un émulsifiant et des microcapsules comportant des composition de parfum

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EP3851166A1 (fr) * 2015-02-25 2021-07-21 Symrise AG Dispersion
WO2021115600A1 (fr) 2019-12-12 2021-06-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents de lavage et de nettoyage comprenant des microcapsules écologiquement compatibles
WO2021116432A1 (fr) 2019-12-12 2021-06-17 Papierfabrik August Koehler Se Systèmes de microcapsule biodégradable
WO2021116365A1 (fr) 2019-12-12 2021-06-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents de lavage et de nettoyage comprenant des microcapsules écologiquement compatibles
WO2021115601A1 (fr) 2019-12-12 2021-06-17 Papierfabrik August Koehler Se Systèmes de microcapsules biodégradables
WO2022258118A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2022-12-15 Koehler Innovation & Technology Gmbh Microcapsules dégradables de couleur neutre
EP4101529A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2022-12-14 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Milieu contenant des microcapsules dégradables de couleur neutre avec composition de parfum
EP4101528A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2022-12-14 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Milieu contenant des microcapsules dégradables de couleur neutre
WO2022258808A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2022-12-15 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Compositions contenant des microcapsules dégradables neutres en couleur
DE102021205957A1 (de) 2021-06-11 2022-12-15 Koehler Innovation & Technology Gmbh Farbneutrale abbaubare Mikrokapseln
DE102021214457A1 (de) 2021-12-15 2023-06-15 Koehler Innovation & Technology Gmbh Mikrokapseldispersionen mit Emulgator
EP4198113A1 (fr) 2021-12-15 2023-06-21 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Milieu contenant un émulsifiant et des microcapsules
EP4198114A1 (fr) 2021-12-15 2023-06-21 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Agent contenant un émulsifiant et des microcapsules
EP4198115A1 (fr) 2021-12-15 2023-06-21 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Milieu contenant un émulsifiant et des microcapsules comportant des composition de parfum
WO2023110035A1 (fr) 2021-12-15 2023-06-22 Koehler Innovation & Technology Gmbh Dispersions de microcapsules avec émulsifiant

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