WO2015013951A1

WO2015013951A1 - An anhydrous composition comprising a polyglycerin ester, a polyhydric alcohol and a surfactant

Info

Publication number: WO2015013951A1
Application number: PCT/CN2013/080614
Authority: WO
Inventors: Zhen Xu; Yuta Nomura
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2013-08-01
Filing date: 2013-08-01
Publication date: 2015-02-05
Also published as: CN105407861A

Abstract

The present invention relates, in general, to an anhydrous composition for application onto a targeted substrate, comprising a) at least one ester produced from a polyglycerin compound having an average polymerization degree of 2 to 12, at least a straight chain saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons, and at least an aliphatic saturated dibasic acid having 16-28 carbons; b) at least one polyhydric alcohol which is trihydric or above, wherein the alcohol is present in the composition from 65% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one surfactant chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14-30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, its derivatives, or a mixture thereof.

Description

AN ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYGLYCERIN ESTER, A

POLYHYDRIC ALCOHOL AND A SURFACTANT

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates, in general, to an anhydrous composition for application onto a targeted substrate. More particularly, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition which has excellent moisturizing effect as well as warming effect when applying on the targeted substrate, such as the keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips are produced to satisfy the need of moisturizing of the skin and the lips. Conventionally, compositions as such use humectants such as glycerin, 1 , 3-butylene glycol, and sorbitol. In addition, main components of natural moisturizing factor such as pyrrolidone carboxylate and lactate, and sodium hyaluronate obtained by microbial production are also used.

EP 1417955 discloses a humectant comprising a component A, which is an ester compound of at least glycerin or a condensate thereof and of mixture of a straight chain saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons and of a straight chain saturated dibasic acid having 16-28 carbons, more than half of the hydroxyl groups of at least one of the glycerin and the condensate of the same remaining as hydroxyl groups in the ester compound, a component B which is a dihydric water soluble alcohol, and a component C which is a polyhydric alcohol which is trihydric or above. US2009/0123402 discloses a lip cosmetic comprising a) an oligomer produced from behenic acid, eicosane diacid, and a glycerin condensate; b) a polyol, c) water, d) an ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 2 to 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and being in a liquid or paste form at ordinary temperature, and e) an oily gelling agent.

It is understood that in addition to moisturizing components, water in the conventional skin care or make up composition, is used also for improving hydration and freshness properties to the composition. However, there exist disadvantages that such types of composition leave a too thin and light film on the lips, which is not perceived protective for a lip application. Besides, the moisturizing properties brought by the water do not last long enough, but decrease very quickly. Moreover, consumers tend to apply lip balm or lip gloss with lip rouge to solve lip drying and roughening. However the oil in water type of lip balm brings negative influence to the lip rouge and the makeup comes off quickly.

There thus exists a need for an anhydrous composition for caring for/making up the skin and the lips, especially the lips, having an improved moisturizing and moisturizing retaining effect. In addition, there is also a need to find an anhydrous composition that is stable over time.

In a surprising way, the inventors observed that the use of at least one ester produced from at least one polyglycerin compound, at least a straight chain saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons, and at least an aliphatic saturated dibasic acid having 16-28 carbons, , at least one polyhydric alcohol which is trihydric or above; and at least one surfactant chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14-30 carbon

atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, allows to obtain anhydrous cosmetic compositions, which are stable, and presenting good properties of usability, moisturizing and moisturizing retaining of the skin and/or the lips. It further possesses a warming effect after application. By "warming effect" brought by the invention, it allows the targeted keratin materials, such as the skin and the lips, especially the lips, to obtain heating effect by applying the example. Due to this warming or heating effect, the blood circulation or micro circulation in the lips improves tremendously, thus improving the moisturizing effect.

Besides, the warming effect brings to the skin and the lips, especially the lips an improved moisturizing as well as moisture retaining effect during winter season.

At the same time, this composition contains a high level of polyhydric alcohol is stable, and can provide a warming effect on the lips, making it especially suitable for winter use.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

The invention is thus relating to an anhydrous composition comprising, a) at least one ester produced from a polyglycerin compound having an average polymerization degree of 2 to 12, at least a straight chain saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons, and at least an aliphatic saturated dibasic acid having 16- 28 carbons; b) at least one polyhydric alcohol which is trihydric or above, wherein the alcohol is present in the composition from 65% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

c) at least one surfactant chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14-30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

According to an embodiment, the present invention further comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

According to another embodiment, the present invention further comprises at least one wax. According to yet another embodiment, the present invention further comprises at least one pasty compound.

According to yet another embodiment, the present invention comprises at least one additive which is different from the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, wax, or pasty compound mentioned above.

Another object of the invention is relating to a method for caring for and/or making up of keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular to the lips, of a composition as defined above.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is an anhydrous composition comprising a) at least one ester produced from a polyglycerin compound having an average polymerization degree of 2 to 12, at least a straight chain saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons, and at least an aliphatic saturated dibasic acid having 16-28 carbons; b) at least one polyhydric alcohol which is trihydric or above, wherein the alcohol is present in the composition from 65% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one surfactant chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14-30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 2% and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided. Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of greater than or equal to 10 Pa-s under 25^<€.

More preferably the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of between 20 Pa-s and 50 Pa-s under 25^qC, even more preferably, the composition has a viscosity of 25 Pa-s under 25°C.

The measurement of the viscosity was conducted using a rheometer Prorheo Model R180, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. The measurement procedures were as follows: thermostating the sample by putting the sample in a closed measuring tube in a thermostat bath under 25^<€;

switching on the rheometer Prorheo model R180, and at the same time pressing key 0 for adjustment;

putting the sample into the chamber of the rheometer and measuring the viscosity, under 25^qC. Preferably, the "keratin material" according to the present invention is the skin and the lips. By "skin", we intend all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the lips. According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention is for the lips.

Physiologically acceptable medium

A composition according to the invention may comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium that is

particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the invention to the skin or the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be packaged.

Ester compound

According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one ester produced from a polyglycerin compound having an average polymerization degree of 2 to 12, at least a straight chain saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons, and at least an aliphatic saturated dibasic acid having 16-28 carbons.

The polyglycerin for obtaining the ester compound of the ingredient a) has more particularly an average polymerization degree of 2 to 12. Preferably, the polyglycerin compound has an average polymerization degree of 5 to 10 and even more preferably, an average polymerication degree of about 10.

Specific examples of polyglycerin suitable for the present invention include diglycerin, triglycerin, pentaglycerin, hexaglycerin, decaglycerin, and a mixture thereof. More preferably, decaglycerin is used according to the present invention.

It has to be noted that the polyglycerin compound can be a mixture of different polyglycerin compounds with different polymerization degrees.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the ester compound can be obtained from a mixture of polyglycerin compounds having average polymerization degrees of 8 to 12.

The straight chain saturated fatty acids according to the present invention have 16 to 28 carbons, preferably have 18 to 28 carbons, and preferably 18 to 24 carbons. The fatty acids may further comprise at least a carbonyl group in the fatty chain or at least a hydroxyl radical. Examples of the straight chain saturated fatty acids, which can be preferably used in the present invention, include palmitic acid, stearic acid, 10-hydroxystearic acid, 10-ketostearic acid, , arachidic acid, behenic acid, montanoic acid, and a mixture thereof.

More preferably, the fatty acids have a straight chain of 20 to 22 carbons. Moreover, they do not comprise a carbonyl group in the fatty chain nor a hydroxyl radical.

Preferably, the straight chain saturated fatty acid according to the present invention is behenic acid.

The aliphatic saturated dibasic acids preferably useful to the invention have 16 to 28 carbons, preferably have 18 to 28 carbons, and more preferably have 18 to 24 carbons.

More preferably the aliphatic saturated dibasic acids of the present invention have 20 to 22 carbons.

Examples of the aliphatic saturated dibasic acid that can be used in the present invention include eicosanedioic acid, docosadioic acid, tetracosadioic acid, hexacosadioic acid, octacosadioic acid, and a mixture thereof.

Preferably the aliphatic saturated dibasic acid is eicosanedioic acid.

The ester compound a) may be produced by carrying out an esterification reaction of the polyglycerin compound and the acids above mentioned.

The esterification reaction may be performed by, for example, (1 ) simultaneous esterification reaction of these three components; or (2) esterification of the polyglycerin compound and the straight chain saturated fatty acid, and then esterification or transesterification of the resulting ester with the aliphatic saturated dibasic acid; or (3) esterification of the polyglycerin compound and the aliphatic saturated dibasic acid, and then esterification or transesterrification of the resulting ester and the straight chain saturated fatty acid.

The ester compound used in the present invention may be produced by any one of the above- mentioned methods (1 ) to (3). The esterification reaction can be performed in the presence or absence of an acid, alkaline, or metal catalyst in an organic solvent and/or gas inert to the esterification reaction,

advantageously at a temperature comprised between 100 to 240 ^°C for several to twenty hours while removing the by-product water.

The transesterification reaction is preferably conducted at 20 to 140 ^ for several tens of minutes to several tens of hours, using a catalyst such as metal alcoholate or lipase.

The progress of these reactions can be monitored by measuring acid value of composition of free acids in the reaction system. The completion of the reaction can be determined by this monitorizing.

The reaction product of the (trans)esterification reactions may contain unreacted polyglycerin, straight chain saturated fatty acid, aliphatic saturated dibasic acid and may further contain byproducts such as fatty acids and low molecular weight glycerides. Therefore the reaction product is advantageously purified by washing with water and removing the by-products by, for example, by alkaline deacidification, and then is more particularly subjected to bleaching and deodorization.

The thus obtained ester compound is preferably a mixture of the polyglycerin, with an average polymerization degree of 2 to 12, preferably 5 to 10 and behenic acid, and eicosanedioic acid. Preferably, the said ester which are esterified in a net-like form and has a melting point of about 50 to 80 ^°C .

The ester compound a) in the present invention is commercially available, for example polyglyceryl-10 (behenate/eicosadioate) sold under the trade name Nomcort^® HK-P by the company Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.

The ester compound(s) a) in accordance with the invention is/are preferably present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of active material ranging from 1 % to 15% by weight and more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyhydric alcohol

According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one polyhydric alcohol which is trihydric or above. The polyhydric alcohol which is trihydric or above, is not specifically limited as far as it is a polyhydric alcohol having three or more hydroxyl groups in a molecule. More particularly, the polyhydric alcohol is chosen from linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated compounds comprising 3 to 30 carbons.

Examples of suitable alcohols may include glycerin, and polyglycerin compounds such as diglycerin, tryglycerin, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, monosaccharide or oligosaccharide (preferably disaccharide) such as glucose, galactose, fructose, sucrose, maltose, xylose, xylobiose, and a reduced compound of oligosaccharide. These and these polyhydric alcohols can be used alone or in combination.

Among these polyhydric alcohols, glycerin is more preferred in the present invention.

According to another feature of the invention, the said polyhydric alcohol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 65% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the amount of the ester compound a) is comprised between 70% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably, between 70-80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactant The composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14-30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and its derivatives. If the fatty acid is unsaturated, it comprises 1 to 6 double carbon-carbon bonds.

Advantageously, the surfactant is chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14-30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups,

This surfactant may be chosen from the emulsifiers conventionally used in compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, more specifically the lips.

Examples of the fatty acids moiety of the surfactants that are useful according to the present invention include palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, linoleic acid, linoelaidic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, erucic acid, riarachidic acid, cinoleic acid, and docosahexaenoic acid, or their mixtures. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the surfactant(s) is/are chosen from glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl arachidate, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl arachidonate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

Mentions may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of the surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE). According to a preferred embodiment, the product sold by Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegin is used in the present invention. According to a particular embodiment of the invention,, the present invention comprises at least a mono-, di-, or triglyceryl ester of fatty acid with a saturated, unsaturated chain containing 14 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, or their mixtures, and preferably at least a monoglyceryl ester fatty acid with a saturated, chain containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

The composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, from 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, more preferably 3.4% by weight of surfactants chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 16-30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil

The composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, including nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils, nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based fluror oils, and nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils.

Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil In particular, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof: - hydrocarbon-based triglycerides such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, caprylic/capric triglycerides, ricinus communis (castor) oil, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, simmondsia chinensis seed oil, linum usitatissimum (linseed) oil, persea gratissima (avocado) oil, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, canola oil, prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil, elaeis guneenaeis guineensis (palm) oil, punica granatum seed oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, glycine soja (soybean) oil, zea mays (corn) germ oil, carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil, sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, oryza sativa (rice) bran oil, bertholletia excels seed oil; mentions maybe especially made of the products of this kind being sold, for example, under the tradename Myritol^® 318 from Cognis (BASF);

- hydrocarbon-based mono- or di- esters the carboxylic acid residue contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, oleyl erucate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate;

- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol

Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as

Hailuscent ISDA,

- fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, which are branched or linear, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol; Preferably, the said alcohols are branched; mentions maybe made of octyldodecanol such as the product with the trade name Eutanol G^® sold by the company BASF;

- saturated or unsaturated Ci₂-C₂₆ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;

- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC^® by Cognis; and - nonvolatile oils of high molecular mass, for example between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance: i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/1 -hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol), ii) ester oils such as: a) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g/mol); c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g/mol), d) esters of C₂4-C₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate

(MW = 891 .51 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1 143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g/mol) or else pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g/mol), e) esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer; mention may be made especially of the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5^® and DD-DA7^®,

- and mixtures thereof.

The esters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic acid may be obtained from a monocarboxylic acid containing from 4 to 34 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. As illustrative examples of triglycerides that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

According to one particular variant, it is more particularly the triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms are used.. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar nonvolatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based polar oils, preferably chosen from triglyceride of fatty acids containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one nonvolatile polar oil which is caprylic/capric triglycerides, which is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Myritol^® 318 from Cognis (BASF).

Nonvolatile fluoro oil

The nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a fluoro oil.

The term "fluoro oil" means oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. According to the invention, the term "perfluoro compounds" means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.

As examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil is chosen from

perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and especially the Fiflow^® products sold by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, use may be made of the fluoro oil for which the INCI name is Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.

Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils

The composition according to the invention preferably comprise a nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based apolar oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5a, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)1/2.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space:

- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and

- 5a is determined by the equation: 5a = (δρ² + 5h²)½.

The parameters δρ, 5h, 5D and 5a are expressed in (J/cm3)½. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.

As the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is apolar, the compoundis then free of oxygen, nitrogen atom(s). Preferably, the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, for example the product sold under the trade name , Primol 352 by the company Exxonmobil Chemical.

- squalane,

- isoeicosane,

- liquid petroleum jelly,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H- 300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Ineos,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam^® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol), - decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14,

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, if present, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil suitable for the invention is chosen from liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, for example the product sold under the trade name Primol 352 by the company Exxonmobil Chemical. According to an embodiment, the present invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil chosen from triglyceride of fatty acid containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. More preferably the present invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil of caprylic/capric triglycerides.

In another embodiment, the present invention comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based apolar oil chosen from liquid paraffin and its derivatives, more preferably liquid paraffin.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention comprises caprylic/capric triglycerides, liquid paraffin, or a mixture thereof.

Preferably, if present, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in a total content of between 3% and 40% by weight, preferably between 5% and 30%by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Wax

The composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one wax.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 'C, which may be up to 120°C.

The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from solid waxes that may or may not be deformable at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains.

Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, and bis(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.

Waxes that may also be mentioned include fluoro waxes.

Waxes that may also be used include those obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64^® and 22L73^® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.

A wax that may be used is a C₂o-C₄o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P^®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P^® and Kester Wax K 80 P^® by the company Koster Keunen.

If the composition comprises wax(es), the amount varies between 0.1 % and 10%, preferably between 0.1 % and 5% by weight of the composition.

Pasty compound

The composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one pasty compound. The term "pasty", within the meaning of the present invention, is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty ompound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and comprising, at a temperature of 23 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 °C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23^, represents 9 to 97% by weight of the composition. This liquid fraction at 23 °C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85%, by weight. Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in

Standard ISO 1 1357-3: 1999. The melting point of a pasty compounds can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of pasty compounds placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in

temperature ranging from -20 ^ to 100°C at a heating rate of 10 ^/minute, is then cooled from l OO 'C to -20^ at a cooling rate of 10 ^/minute and, finally, is subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20 ^ to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible comprising the sample of pasty compounds is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the pasty compounds is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compounds at 23 ^ is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ^ to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to change from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is "in the solid state" when the whole of its mass is in the solid crystalline form. The pasty compounds is "in the liquid state" when the whole of its mass is in the liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compounds is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10°C per minute, according to Standard ISO 1 1357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compounds is the amount of energy necessary to change the pasty compounds from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ^ is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23 ^, composed of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compounds measured at 32 ^<C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty compounds, preferably from 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compounds, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the pasty compounds. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compounds measured at 32 ^<C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compounds is less than or equal to 32 °C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compounds measured at 32 ^<C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compounds. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from hydrocarbon based pasty compounds and more particularly from the following compounds, alone or in combination:

- lanolin and derivatives thereof;

- petroleum jelly, in particular the product whose INCI name is petrolatum and which is sold under the name Ultima White PET USP by the company Calumet Specialty,

- polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyalkylene glycol, ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, and mixtures thereof, the ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether) and mixtures thereof, and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, which is a mixture in which the constituents are in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil;

- vinyl polymers, especially:

· olefin homopolymers and copolymers,

• hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers, • linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C₈-C₃o alkyl group,

• oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C₈-C₃o alkyl groups, such as vinyl ester homopolymers containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference

Mexomer PP by the company Chimex) and arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo;

• oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups;

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more

C2-C100 and preferably C₂-C₅o diols, Among the liposoluble polyethers that are particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C₆-C₃₀ long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made especially of copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

- esters especially those chosen from:

• vinyl ester homopolymers containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP by the company Chimex) and arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,

• phytosterol esters,

· pentaerythritol esters,

• noncrosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C₂-C₅o diol or polyol,

• aliphatic esters of an ester, resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic

hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid comprising from 4 to 30 carbons, preferably 8 to 30 carbons.

• esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen especially from the esters having the following INCI nomenclature: Bis-Behenyl/lsostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G), Phytosteryl/lsostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,

• mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AarhusKarlshamn,

· hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rape seed oil,

mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rape seed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel^® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil),

• shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft^® by the company

Aarhuskarlshamn,

• and mixtures thereof.

If present, the amount of pasty compound is comprised between 1 % and 50%, preferably 3% and 40%, more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, in the composition of the present invention.

Galenic form

The composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skin care, make up or cosmetic treatment product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of makeup product such as lip balm, lip stick, lip gloss, and so on. Additives

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from lipophilic solvents, gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants different from glyceryl esters of fatty acids described before, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected.

The composition according to the invention may be prepared in a conventional manner. The examples that follow are given as non limiting illustrations of the present invention. The percentages are weight percentages.

EXAMPLES

Formulation examples The following formulation examples are prepared (inv exp stands for invention example; compa exp stands for comparative example):

INCI name % of ingredient by raw material (wt%)

Inv exp 1 Inv exp Compa Compa Compa Compa Compa

2 exp 1 exp 2 exp 3 exp 4 exp 5

Glycerin 80 80 40 80 80 80 80 (Emery 917

from Emery

Oleo

Chemicals)

Polyglyceryl-10 4 4 4 0 0 4 4 behenate/eicos

adioate

(Nomcort^® HK- P from Nisshin

Oillio)

Cetyl alcohol 0 0 0 4 0 0 0

(Lanette 16

from Cognis

(BASF)) Dextrin 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 palmitate

(Rheopearlkl2- OR from Chiba

Flour Milling)

Glyceryl 3.4 3.4 3.4 3.4 3.4 0 0 Stearate SE

(Tegin Pellets

from Evonik

Goldschmidt)

PEG-10 0 0 0 0 0 3.4 0

D I MET HI CON

E

(KF-6017 from

SHIN ETSU)

PEG-7 0 0 0 0 0 0 3.4 Glyceryl

cocoate

(Tegosoft GC

from Evonik

Goldschmidt)

Caprylic/capric 12.6 0 52.6 12.6 12.6 12.6 12.6 triglyceride

(Myritol^® 318

from Cognis

(BASF))

Paraffin 0 12.6 0 0 0 0 0 (Primol 352

from

Exxonmobil

Remarks:

Compa exp 1 contains less than 65% of glycerin;

Compa exp 2 and 3 do not contain the ingredient a) as described in the invention;

Compa exp 4 and 5 do not contain the surfactant c) as described in the invention. Protocol of preparation

The above listed formulations examples are prepared following the steps of: mixing all the ingredients of the invention example 1 and 2, as well as the comparative examples 1 -5 respectively, under the temperature 85^°C ;

Stirring the mixture until homogenization; cooling down the temperature to 25^°C .

Evaluation example

Evaluation on the usability such as the viscosity of the examples, the spreadability of the examples, moisturizing effect such as moisturizing, moisture retaining effect, warming effect of the invention examples 1 and 2, as well as the comparative examples 1 to 5 are performed. By "warming effect" brought by the invention, it allows the targeted keratin materials, especially the lips, to obtain heating effect by applying the example. Due to this warming or heating effect, the blood circulation or micro circulation in the lips improves tremendously, thus improving the moisturizing effect.

Usability effect as well as moisturizing effect of the examples are evaluated by 6 panelists, by applying the invention example 1 and 2, as well as the comparative examples 1 to 5 to the lips, following a standardized gesture: squeeze out around 0.2 g of product from a tube and spread evenly onto the lips Finally, the viscosity of the examples is observed, and comments or scores of the above mentioned effects are given by the panelists.

5: very good;

4: basically good;

3: acceptable;

2: slightly poor and not acceptable;

1 : poor, not acceptable.

Evaluation items Evaluation results

Inv exp Inv exp Compa exp Compa Comp exp Compa Compa exp

1 2 1 exp 2 3 exp 4 5 5

Usability Viscosity Properl Properly not stable: Not not Not Not viscous effect of y viscous phase viscous homogeneo viscou enough the viscou for separation enough us, not s

examples s for applicati formulable enoug

applica on, h

tion, remains

remain still in

s still in bulk

bulk

Spreadabil Easy Easy to unavailable Too liquid, unavailable Too Too liquid, ity to apply, compositio liquid, composition apply, rich n runs off compo runs off the rich feeling the lips sition lips feeling during runs

during applicati off the

applica on lips

tion Moisturizi Moisturizin 5 5 unavailable 2 unavailable 3 2 ng effect g effect

of the

examples

Warming 5 5 unavailable 3 unavailable 4 3 effect

Based on the above listed evaluation results, the inventors discovered that the composition according to the present invention overcomes the technical issues existing in the prior art, and provides a stable cosmetic composition with optimized moisturizing effect and usability.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1 . An anhydrous composition comprising,

a) at least one ester produced from a polyglycerin compound having an average polymerization degree of 2 to 12, at least one straight chain saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons, and at least one aliphatic saturated dibasic acid having 16-28 carbons;

b) at least one polyhydric alcohol which is trihydric or above, wherein the alcohol is present in the composition from 65% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

c) at least one surfactant chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14-30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, its derivatives, or a mixture thereof.

2. Composition of claim 1 has a viscosity of great than or equal to 10 Pa-s under 25 ^°C , preferably has a viscosity between 20 Pa-s and 50 Pa-s under 25 ^°C , more preferably has a viscosity of 25 Pa-s under 25 ^°C .

3. Composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyglycerin compound preferably has an

average polymerization degree of 5 to 10, more preferably 10.

4. Composition of any one of the claims 1 -3, wherein the polyglycerin compound is chosen from diglycerin, triglycerin, pentaglycerin, hexaglycerin, decaglycerin, or a mixture thereof, preferably, the polyglycerin is decaglycerin.

5. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 -4, wherein the at least one straight chain saturated fatty acid has a straight chain of 18-28, preferably 18-24 carbon atoms.

6. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 -5, wherein the at least one straight chain saturated fatty acid is chosen from stearic acid, 10-hydroxystearic acid, 10- ketostearic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid, and a mixture thereof, more preferably the fatty acid is behenic acid.

7. Composition of any one of the preceding claims of 1 -6, wherein the at least one aliphatic saturated dibasic acid has18-28, preferably 20-24 carbon atoms.

8. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 -7, wherein the at least one aliphatic saturated dibasic acid is chosen from eicosanedioic acid, docosadioic acid, tetracosadioic acid, hexacosadioic acid, octacosadioic acid, and a mixture thereof, preferably the aliphatic saturated dibasic acid is eicosanedioic acid.

9. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the at least one ester is present in the composition from 1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the at least one

polyhydric alcoholpolyhydric alcohol is chosen from glycerin, diglycerin, triglycerin, polyglycerin, neopentyl glycol, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, glucose, galactose, fructose, sucrose, maltose, xylose, xylobiose, or a mixture thereof, preferably the alcohol is glycerin.

1 1 . Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the at least one polyhydric alcohol is present in the composition preferably from 70% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 1 1 , wherein the at least one surfactant is chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 16-22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, its derivatives, or a mixture thereof; preferably the surfactant is chosen from glyceryl esters of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 16-22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

13. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 -12, wherein the at least one surfactant is preferably chosen from glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl arachidate, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl arachidonate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and a mixture thereof, more preferably, the surfactant is glyceryl stearate.

14. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, wherein the surfactant is present in the composition from 1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, more preferably 3.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to14 further comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based polar oil, nonvolatile hydrocarbon based apolar oil, or a mixture thereof, more preferably the nonvolatile hydrocarbon based polar oil is chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, even more preferably, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil is

caprylic/capric triglyceride, and preferably the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil is chosen from mineral oils, more preferablythe nonvolatile hydrocarbon -based apolar oil is liquid paraffin.

16. Method for caring for and/or making up of keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular to the lips, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.