WO2014132219A2 - Composition contenant un rébaudioside a et un tensioactif oxyéthyléné - Google Patents

Composition contenant un rébaudioside a et un tensioactif oxyéthyléné Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014132219A2
WO2014132219A2 PCT/IB2014/059303 IB2014059303W WO2014132219A2 WO 2014132219 A2 WO2014132219 A2 WO 2014132219A2 IB 2014059303 W IB2014059303 W IB 2014059303W WO 2014132219 A2 WO2014132219 A2 WO 2014132219A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
oxyethylenated
sorbitan
skin
ionic
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Application number
PCT/IB2014/059303
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English (en)
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WO2014132219A3 (fr
Inventor
Chantal JOUY
Jérémy BERTHELOT
Véronique Chevalier
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR1351798A external-priority patent/FR3002447B1/fr
Priority claimed from FR1351797A external-priority patent/FR3002443B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2014132219A2 publication Critical patent/WO2014132219A2/fr
Publication of WO2014132219A3 publication Critical patent/WO2014132219A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • composition containing rebaudioside A and an oxyethylenated surfactant Composition containing rebaudioside A and an oxyethylenated surfactant
  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic field, and more particularly to a process for stabilizing a cosmetic active agent, rebaudioside A, in aqueous phase.
  • the present invention also relates to novel compositions, preferably cosmetic compositions, comprising said active agent, and also to cosmetic treatment processes.
  • the cosmetic qualities of the composition are generally modified. This may be reflected by cloudiness of the composition, by yellowing of the composition, in particular if its preparation process comprises a heating phase, by the development of odour, or by a less smooth appearance of the composition if it is intended for topical application, or even phase separation.
  • the composition may also show a loss of efficacy.
  • compositions of this type it is essential for cosmetic compositions of this type to be stable over a broad temperature range. Specifically, in the course of its duration of use, the product may be exposed to temperatures ranging from -20°C to +45°C minimum depending on the climatic, storage and/or transportation conditions.
  • active agents which exist in several polymorphic forms, i.e. in the form of several crystalline states having different arrangements and/or conformations of molecules in the crystal lattice, may be particularly unstable in aqueous media.
  • the active agent rebaudioside A (also known as Reb A), which is a steviol glycoside derivative, extracted from Stevia, is a polymorphic molecule existing in several commercial forms as indicated below.
  • Rebaudioside A is an active agent derived from the agrifood industry where it is in particular used for its strong sweetening power and its anti-hyperglycaemiant properties.
  • thermodynamically stable form of Reb A generally has low solubility in cosmetic solvents.
  • the aim of the present invention is to satisfy these needs.
  • the Applicant has found, unexpectedly and advantageously, that the introduction of a non-ionic oxyethylenated compound into a composition comprising rebaudioside A dissolved in aqueous phase can prevent or limit its recrystallization over time.
  • a subject of the invention is a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, rebaudioside A and at least one non-ionic oxyethylenated compound.
  • a subject of the invention is a composition, preferably cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, rebaudioside A which is present in an amount of from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one non-ionic oxyethylenated compound which is present in an amount of from 0.01% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • this composition is applied topically.
  • a subject of the invention is a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, rebaudioside A and at least one polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type comprising at least units of formula (I): and optionally units of formul
  • OCOCH preferably in which the units of formula (II) are present in a maximum amount of 5 mol% relative to the final polymer.
  • the Applicant has found, unexpectedly and advantageously, that the introduction of a polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type into a composition comprising rebaudioside A dissolved in aqueous phase can prevent or limit its recrystallization over time.
  • a subject of the invention is a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, Rebaudioside A, said Rebaudioside A being present in a content of from 0.5% to 20 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type comprising at least units of formula (I):
  • OCOCH preferably in which the units of formula (II) are present in a maximum amount of 5 mol% relative to the final polymer, said polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type being present in a content of from 0.001 to 10 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • this composition is applied topically.
  • the present invention relates to the use of said at least one non-ionic oxyethylenated compound for stabilizing rebaudioside A in aqueous phase in particular in a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention relates to the use of said at least one polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type for stabilizing rebaudioside A in aqueous phase in particular in a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition.
  • the aqueous phase may be an aqueous solution, i.e. a solution comprising water, or even consisting of water, or alternatively it may be the aqueous phase of a "direct” emulsion (O/W, oil-in-water emulsion) or an "inverse” emulsion (W/O, water-in- oil emulsion).
  • O/W oil-in-water emulsion
  • W/O water-in- oil emulsion
  • the present invention relates to a process for stabilizing rebaudioside A in aqueous phase in a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one step of introducing said at least one non- ionic oxyethylenated compound into a composition comprising rebaudioside A, optionally followed by a step of mixing the composition obtained.
  • the present invention relates to a process for stabilizing rebaudioside A in aqueous phase in a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one step of introducing said at least one polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type into a composition comprising rebaudioside A, optionally followed by a step of mixing the composition obtained.
  • this rebaudioside A-stabilizing property in the cosmetic products makes it possible to prevent crystallization of said rebaudioside A by inhibiting crystal seeding.
  • the stabilization of rebaudioside A thus ensures its efficacy and in particular facilitates its passage through the skin.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for stimulating, restoring or regulating the metabolism of skin melanocytes, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition according to the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for preventing, reducing and/or treating a skin complexion impairment, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition according to the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for lightening the skin, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition according to the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for stimulating, restoring or regulating the metabolism of cells of the skin or semi-mucous membranes, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition according to the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of the skin or of the semi-mucous membranes, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition according to the invention.
  • the preferred routes of administration are the topical route or the oral route and advantageously the topical route, i.e. the application of a composition in accordance with the invention directly in contact with the target surface of the skin or of a semi-mucous membrane.
  • the present invention relates to a kit comprising at least one container containing a composition in accordance with the invention, and at least one device arranged to enable the administration of said composition to an individual, and/or to increase the efficacy of said composition on an individual, and/or to promote the topical penetration of said composition on an individual.
  • oxyethylenated is intended to mean a compound comprising at least one linear group (-OCH 2 CH 2 -).
  • polyoxyethylenated is intended to mean a compound comprising at least two linear groups (-OCH 2 CH 2 -), this compound generally being obtained by means of a process comprising an ethylene glycol polymerization step.
  • the present invention relates to the use of Rebaudioside A (Reb A, also known as "RA” or ⁇ -D-glucopyranosyl 13-[(2-0-P-D-glucopyranosyl-3-0-P-D- glucopyranosyl-P-D-glucopyranosyl)oxy]kaur-16-en-18-oate) as main active agent.
  • Rebaudioside A also known as "RA” or ⁇ -D-glucopyranosyl 13-[(2-0-P-D-glucopyranosyl-3-0-P-D- glucopyranosyl-P-D-glucopyranosyl)oxy]kaur-16-en-18-oate
  • Reb A is represented by formula (I):
  • the present invention naturally employs an effective amount of Reb A so as to obtain the desired effect.
  • This effective amount may vary with regard to various parameters which are in particular the indication targeted, the characteristics of the individual treated, the galenical form adopted, the nature of the formulation excipients or the presence of additional active agent(s).
  • the term "effective amount” is intended to mean a sufficient and necessary amount of a given active agent to exert the desired effect and in particular the antiageing and/or antioxidant and/or bleaching effect for the cosmetic application.
  • Such an amount may be determined by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example by means of in vitro, ex vivo or in vivo trials, such as clinical trials.
  • the amount of Reb A ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of Reb A ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the main active agent according to the invention i.e. Reb A
  • the main active agent according to the invention is used in the form of an extract of at least one plant of the Stevia genus.
  • the use of the main active agent according to the invention in the form of an extract of at least one plant of the Stevia genus is particularly advantageous in that it affords a novel cosmetic active agent of natural origin and thus satisfies an increasing demand from consumers in this direction.
  • the Stevia genus belongs to the family of the Asteraceae, which combines
  • the Stevia plants are plants originating from the tropical regions of Latin America.
  • the extract of a plant of the Stevia genus can be chemically modified (it is then semi-synthetic) but it is preferably natural.
  • An extract of a plant of the Stevia genus for the purpose of the present invention, can be prepared from any plant material derived from said plant or from its cells cultivated according to conventional methods or by in vivo biotechnology or derived from in vitro culturing.
  • cultivating in vivo is intended to mean any cultivation of conventional type, that is to say in soil in the open air or in a greenhouse, or alternatively without soil.
  • in vitro culturing is intended to mean all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which make it possible to artificially obtain a plant or a plant part.
  • the selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain a standardized plant material which is available throughout the year, in contrast to plants cultivated in vivo.
  • An extract of a plant of the Stevia genus used in the present invention may be obtained from any plant material derived from this whole plant or from any part of this plant, for instance the leaves, stems, flowers and flowering tops, seeds, buds and roots, undifferentiated cells or plant stem cells.
  • an extract of a plant of the Stevia genus in accordance with the invention is obtained from the leaves.
  • an extract of a plant of the Stevia genus in accordance with the invention originates from a plant of the species Stevia rebaudiana (Bertoni), also known as Eupatorium rebaudianum or "sweet leaf .
  • Stevia rebaudiana also known as Eupatorium rebaudianum or "sweet leaf .
  • Such a species is today cultivated in many countries and on continents other than Latin America, in particular in Singapore, Taiwan, Malaysia, South Korea, China, Israel or even Australia.
  • the amount of extract of a plant of the Stevia genus ranges from 0.00001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.01%) to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • rebaudioside A which can be used in the present invention, of the Stevia extract comprising 99% of rebaudioside A sold by Blue California under the name Good'n sweetTM as well as the Stevia extract comprising 97%) of rebaudioside A sold by Chengdu Wagott Pharmaceutical under the name ViaSweetTM.
  • Stevia extract fermented by a yeast described in document WO 2003/035090.
  • the intrinsic properties of the main active agent according to the invention are such that they allow the use, within a composition according to the invention, of compounds or active agents which normally cannot be used because they are difficult to formulate, dissolve, deliver in a controlled manner or vectorize.
  • an extract according to the invention can advantageously be combined with at least one additional active agent chosen from polyols and in particular glycerol and propylene glycol, vitamins, keratolytic and/or desquamating agents, soothing agents and mixtures thereof.
  • additional active agent chosen from polyols and in particular glycerol and propylene glycol, vitamins, keratolytic and/or desquamating agents, soothing agents and mixtures thereof.
  • the term "desquamating agent” is intended in particular to mean the compounds capable of influencing desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as ⁇ - hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-(n- octanoyl)salicylic acid); a-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acid; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract and resveratrol.
  • ⁇ - hydroxy acids in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-(n- octanoyl)salicylic acid); a-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acid; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract and resveratrol.
  • additional active agents can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in which they are present.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic oxyethylenated compound.
  • non-ionic oxyethylenated compounds are chosen from non-ionic oxyethylenated surfactants, block copolymers comprising polyoxyalkylenated blocks, oxyethylenated silicones, in particular silicones comprising polyoxyethylenated/polyoxypropylenated side chains, and copolymers comprising a silicone block and a poly(ethylene oxide/propylene oxide) block.
  • non-ionic oxyethylenated surfactants examples include but are not limited to, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 1 16-178.
  • fatty acids are in particular chosen from fatty acids, (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, a-diols or alcohols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, and optionally polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and comprising at least one fatty chain containing, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and optionally propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 30, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-ionic oxyethylenated compound which is suitable for the invention is chosen from:
  • fatty acids (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, a-diols or alcohols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, and optionally polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and comprising at least one fatty chain preferably containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups preferably ranging from 1 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups preferably ranging from 2 to 30,
  • fatty compound such as, for example, a fatty acid
  • a fatty acid denotes a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better still from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • n, m and p are independently integers ranging from 1 to 1000 and x is an integer strictly greater than 2 and less than or equal to 10.
  • block copolymer is intended to mean a polymer comprising at least 2 distinct blocks and preferably at least 3 distinct blocks.
  • the block copolymer comprises at least one polyethylene glycol block and at least one polypropylene glycol block.
  • n and m integers between 1 and 1000 and x an integer strictly greater than 2 and less than 10.
  • copolymers advantageously have a molecular weight greater than or equal to 1000 g/mol, preferably greater than or equal to 1500 g/mol and better still greater than 2000 g/mol.
  • copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide also known as OE/OP polycondensates, for instance the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the name Synperonic, for instance Synperonic PE/L44, Synperonic PE/L64 (13 OE/13 OP/13 OE) with a MW of 2900 and Synperonic PE/F127, by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-ionic oxyethylenated compound(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of non-ionic oxyethylenated compound ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non-ionic oxyethylenated compound(s) is (are) present in the compositions according to the invention in such a way that the Reb A/non-ionic oxyethylenated compound(s) weight ratio is preferably greater than or equal to 0.005.
  • the rebaudioside A/oxyethylenated compound(s) weight ratio is from 0.0002 to 50 000, preferably from 0.005 to 3000 and even more preferentially from 0.01 to 50.
  • oxyethylenated sorbitan esters are preferably used.
  • the compounds that can be used to this effect comprise in particular oxyethylenated compounds of C8-C30 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan, containing from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
  • Use is preferably made of oxyethylenated compounds of C10-C24 fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan, containing from 4 to 30 and preferably from 15 to 25 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
  • the C10-C24 fatty acids used are preferably lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and oleic acid. Such compounds are also known as polysorbates. They are sold, inter alia, under the name Tween by the company Croda.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include: sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 4 OE, sold under the name Tween 21, sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, sold under the name Tween 20, sorbitan monopalmitate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, sold under the name Tween 40, sorbitan monostearate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, sold under the name Tween 60, sorbitan tristearate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, sold under the name Tween 65, sorbitan monooleate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, sold under the name Tween 80, sorbitan monooleate oxyethylenated with 5 OE, sold under the name Tween 81, sorbitan trioleate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, sold under the name Tween 85, and mixtures thereof.
  • the sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 4 OE is also sold under the name Tego SML 21 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
  • compound with X OE denotes an oxyethylenated compound comprising X oxyethylene units per molecule.
  • the fatty acid of the oxyethylenated sorbitan ester can be a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid.
  • the preferred sorbitan esters are sorbitan monostearate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, sorbitan monooleate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 20 OE.
  • the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total amount of at least 0.01% by weight of oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • it comprises a total a total amount of oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 15% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 10%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises amount of oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) ranging from 0.5%> to 10%) by weight and even more preferentially from 1%> to 10%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type may also be used in the compositions according to the invention.
  • This polymer comprises at least units of formula (I):
  • OCOCH preferably in which the units of formula (II) are present in a maximum amount of 5 mol% relative to the final polymer.
  • the units of formula (II) are present in the final polymer in an amount of from 0 to 3 mol% and preferably in an amount of from 0.05 mol% to 2 mol%.
  • the polymer has a mass-average molecular weight of between 1000 and 1 000 000 g/mol, preferably between 10 000 and 500 000 g/mol and even more preferentially between 50 000 and 400 000 g/mol.
  • the amount of polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type is from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01%) to 10%) by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1%> to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the rebaudioside A/polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type weight ratio is from 0.0002 to 50 000, preferably from 0.005 to 3000 and even more preferentially from 0.01 to 50.
  • Rhodoviol® sold under the name Rhodoviol® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and in particular:
  • Imbalances in the metabolism of the melanocytes can be the cause of various aesthetic disorders of the skin. These disorders can affect the complexion and/or the pigmentation of the skin and furthermore occur in an exacerbated fashion in elderly skin.
  • the defects of pigmentation of the skin can be marked by the presence of more or less extensive surface skin blemishes, having a darker or lighter colour than the normal colour of the skin of the individual which surrounds said skin blemishes.
  • the skin pigmentation defects in particular encompass melasma (pregnancy mask) and lentigines, including liver spots and actinic lentigo.
  • the melasma or chloasma considered by the invention can be triggered by exposure to UV rays, or can occur on photosensitive skin, photoallergic skin or skin subject to a phototoxicity reaction.
  • Lentigines arise in the form of hyperpigmented skin blemishes which can appear at any age and are usually darker and more extensive than freckles.
  • Lentigines encompass in particular (i) solar lentigines, which appear in light-skinned individuals on skin regions exposed for a long time to the sun, (ii) lentiginous pigmentation resulting from skin therapies involving UV-A radiation (320-400 nanometres - also known as PUVA therapy), (iii) multiple lentigines, in particular on the palms, soles of the feet, mucous membranes or unexposed skin, or also (iv) lentigines affecting the lips, vulva or penis.
  • the skin pigmentation defects also encompass hyperpigmentation conditions resulting from thermal burns or acne-type hyperpigmentation, or resulting from insect stings, cuts and other mechanical skin trauma, in particular during shaving, and pseudofolliculitis due to bodily hairs becoming ingrown resulting from shaving or depilation.
  • a skin pigmentation defect that is more particularly under consideration in the invention may be chosen from melasma, chloasma, lentigines, senile lentigo, hyperpigmentations caused by an abrasion and/or a burn and/or a scar, hyperpigmentations or any other pigmentary lesions.
  • the present invention may also be used to prevent, reduce and/or treat pregnancy mask.
  • An active agent of the invention may be used more particularly to lighten or whiten the skin.
  • the present invention also relates to aesthetic disorders of the skin affecting the skin complexion.
  • the invention may suitably be used for preventing, reducing and/or treating a lack of uniformity of the skin complexion, or even for improving the skin complexion, in particular of elderly skin.
  • the invention advantageously makes it possible to promote and maintain the radiance of the complexion of the skin and in particular a uniform complexion.
  • the use according to the invention makes it possible to treat and/or prevent an impairment in the radiance of the complexion or a loss of radiance of the skin complexion.
  • the use according to the invention gives the skin a uniform, luminous, more radiant, or even more glowing, complexion indicative of skin in good health.
  • the invention can advantageously prevent, reduce and/or treat a muddy skin complexion, a dull skin complexion, a non-uniform skin complexion or skin imperfections chosen in particular from spots, dry patches, dyschromias or blackheads or also prevent, reduce and/or treat a waxen, sallow, greyish or ashen, or even sickly, complexion.
  • Rebaudioside A may more preferentially be used for preventing, reducing and/or treating an impairment in the skin complexion chosen from an impairment in the radiance of the skin complexion, a muddy skin complexion, a dull skin complexion, a non-uniform skin complexion, spots, dry patches, dyschromias and/or blackheads.
  • a skin more particularly under consideration in the present invention may be elderly skin.
  • the present invention relates to the entire surface of an individual's skin.
  • the present invention may be used with regard to regions of skin more regularly exposed to the sun, to UV radiation or to external stress factors, such as pollution, irritation due to rubbing, or cigarette smoke.
  • the present invention may advantageously be used with regard to the skin of the hands, face or neckline.
  • the active agent according to the invention namely Reb A, optionally as a mixture with other additional active agent(s), may be formulated in a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
  • a composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition.
  • the main active agent according to the invention is intended for topical administration.
  • compositions comprising the main active agent according to the invention may be in the form of products for caring for the skin or semi-mucous membranes, such as a protective, treatment or care composition for the face, for the lips, for the hands, for the feet, for the anatomical folds or for the body (for example, day creams, night cream, makeup-removing cream, makeup base, antisun composition, protective or care body milk, aftersun milk, skincare or scalp-care lotion, gel or foam, serum, powder, mask, artificial tanning composition, aftershave composition, hair composition, product for the region of the armpits, or hygiene and cleansing product.
  • a protective, treatment or care composition for the face, for the lips, for the hands, for the feet, for the anatomical folds or for the body (for example, day creams, night cream, makeup-removing cream, makeup base, antisun composition, protective or care body milk, aftersun milk, skincare or scalp-care lotion, gel or foam, serum, powder, mask, artificial tanning composition, aftershave composition, hair composition,
  • the main active agent according to the invention is intended for oral administration.
  • the composition of the invention may be in any suitable form, particularly in the form of a drinkable solution, a drink, a tablet, a gel capsule, a wafer capsule, or alternatively a nutritional food or a nutritional supplement.
  • the main active agent according to the invention is intended for intracutaneous administration, such as intradermal or subcutaneous administration.
  • This administration may, for example, be performed by means of a device for intracutaneous injection (syringe, implant or reservoir and microneedles) or alternatively an ultrasound or iontophoresis device, or even a light or thermal device.
  • Such an administration may also be performed by mesotherapy.
  • the intracutaneous use of a composition of the invention is to be distinguished from a surgical operation and is targeted only at exerting a surface treatment of the skin for aesthetic, protective, repair or comfort purposes.
  • the intracutaneous administration route is reflected only by superficial penetration of the skin and thus does not come within any medical, surgical or therapeutic context.
  • the main active agent according to the invention namely Reb A
  • the main active agent according to the invention is intended for topical administration, i.e. for administration by application to the surface of the keratin material under consideration.
  • said main active agent in accordance with the invention when it is present in a composition, may be formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is suitable for the topical, oral or intracutaneous, such as intraepi dermal, intradermal or subcutaneous, administration of a composition.
  • a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that has no unpleasant odour or appearance and that is entirely compatible with the administration route under consideration.
  • compositions When the composition is intended for topical administration, i.e. for administration by application to the surface of the keratin material under consideration, such a medium is considered to be physiologically acceptable when it does not cause any stinging, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.
  • composition When the composition is intended for oral administration, such a medium is considered to be physiologically acceptable when it does not cause any digestive intolerance.
  • compositions intended for intracutaneous administration such a medium is considered to be physiologically acceptable when it does not cause any reaction experienced as unpleasant by the user, for example stinging, tightness or redness, or even does not cause any inflammatory, allergic, oedematous or pruritic reactions.
  • composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in cosmetics and dermatology.
  • aqueous solution aqueous/alcoholic solution or oily solution
  • a dispersion of the lotion type which is optionally a two-phase or three-phase lotion, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular with the aid of spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymer particles or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and/or non-ionic type, or alternatively in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste, a solid cake which can disintegrate by rubbing of an applicator or of a soft or rigid stick and which can melt on the skin or semi-mucous membranes. It can have a solid, pasty or more or less fluid liquid consistency.
  • the active agent according to the invention may be formulated with the usual constituents.
  • a composition according to the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of an emulsion, obtained in particular by dispersion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W/O) or of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi- solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively of a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or 0/W/O).
  • W/O a fatty phase
  • O/W a fatty phase
  • composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight and preferably from 30% to 95% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one fatty phase that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the amount of oily phase present in the compositions according to the invention may range, for example, from 0.01% to 90% by weight and preferably from 0.1%) to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, waxes and fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff chosen, for example, from pigments, nacres, dyes and effect materials, and mixtures thereof.
  • These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • These fillers may be mineral or organic and their choice falls within the competence of those skilled in the art.
  • a composition according to the invention preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, rebaudioside A and at least one non- ionic oxyethylenated compound as defined previously, may also comprise at least one polymer of polyvinyl alcohol type as defined previously.
  • the administration of the active agent under consideration according to the invention can be carried out via the use of a device adjusted to the method of administration under consideration, that is to say topical, oral or intracutaneous.
  • a device adjusted to the method of administration under consideration that is to say topical, oral or intracutaneous.
  • - devices for direct topical delivery or for delivery by means of a specific applicator such as, for example, intracutaneous microinjections, or simple or iontophoretic patches;
  • the device contributes to stimulating the effectiveness of the active agent according to the invention at the administration site under consideration.
  • the present invention is also directed towards a kit comprising at least one container containing a composition comprising Reb A in accordance with the invention and at least one device suitable for administering said composition to an individual and in particular as described above.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for stimulating, restoring or regulating the metabolism of melanocytes, in particular aged melanocytes of the skin or of the semi-mucous membranes, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • the present invention is directed towards a cosmetic treatment process for lightening the skin, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for preventing, reducing and/or treating a skin complexion impairment, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for stimulating, restoring or regulating the metabolism of skin cells, in particular of fibroblasts, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of the skin, comprising at least one step of administering, to an individual in need thereof, a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • a cosmetic process according to the invention can be carried out daily, for example at the rate of a single administration per day or of an administration split up into two or three times per day, for example once in the morning and once in the evening.
  • Reb A When Reb A is conventionally placed at 2% by weight in water, it does not totally dissolve and, furthermore, there is generally total reprecipitation of the Reb A after a few hours. So, it is preferred to perform the dissolution at 2% with the process of heating at 90°C as described in Example 5 of WO 2010/118218.
  • a control bottle comprising Reb A sold under the name ViaSweetTM by the company Chengdu Wagott Pharmaceutical at 2% in water is prepared.
  • a bottle comprising Reb A (identical to that used in the control bottle) at 2% in water into which has been placed oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) sold under the name Tween 20 SD® by the company Croda at 1% is also prepared. Similar bottles were prepared, with the oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (Tween 20 SD®) at 1% being replaced with oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) at, on the one hand, 0.25% and, on the other hand, 0.5%.
  • each of the bottles comprises Reb A (identical to that used in the control bottle) at 2% and an additive at 1% as indicated in the table below.
  • compositions of each bottle are observed with the naked eye in order to determine their limpidity at TO + 24 h, and TO + 2 months (named hereinafter TO + 2M), TO representing the initial time which corresponds to the moment at which the additive is introduced into the bottle already comprising the Reb A.
  • the composition is stable up to a maximum turbidity value of 30.
  • the bottles are placed before a panel on which are drawn lines in various colours, namely red, white, blue, yellow and black.
  • compositions according to the invention are transparent or exhibit a slight veil or small crystals; on the other hand, the comparative compositions exhibit visible crystals which can precipitate.
  • Sorbitan monostearate oxyethylenated with 20 OE (Tween 60), sorbitan monooleate oxyethylenated with 20 OE (Tween 80) and also PEG-8, used at 1%, also make it possible to conserve a gel that is clear or slightly veiled, but with no crystals, even after a duration of two months, whether at ambient temperature or at 45°C.
  • test samples in gel form are prepared in 10 ml bottles closed with a leaktight stopper.
  • Reb A When Reb A is conventionally placed at 2% in water, it does not totally dissolve and, furthermore, there is generally total reprecipitation of the Reb A after a few hours. So, it is preferred to perform the dissolution at 2% with the process of heating at 90°C as described in Example 5 of WO 2010/118218.
  • Reb A is totally in solution at TO and has not yet totally reprecipitated after a week.
  • a control bottle comprising Reb A sold under the name ViaSweetTM by the company Chengdu Wagott Pharmaceutical at 2% in water is prepared.
  • a bottle comprising Reb A (identical to that used in the control bottle) at 2% in water into which has been placed polyvinyl alcohol sold under the name Selvol 540 Polyvinyl Alcohol® by the company Sekisui Specialty Chemicals at 1% is also prepared.
  • each of the bottles comprises Reb A (identical to that used in the control bottle) at 2% and an additive at 1% as indicated in the table below.
  • compositions of each bottle are observed with the naked eye in order to determine their limpidity at TO + 24 h, and TO + 2 weeks (named hereinbelow TO + 2W), TO representing the initial time which corresponds to the moment at which the additive is introduced into the bottle already comprising the Reb A.
  • composition is stable up to a maximum turbidity value of 30.
  • the bottles are placed before a panel on which are drawn lines in various colours, namely red, white, blue, yellow and black.
  • Certain turbidity measurements are taken at ambient temperature (AT) and/or at 45°C and are reproduced in the table below.
  • compositions according to the invention are transparent, whereas the comparative compositions are not always transparent at TO + 2 weeks.
  • the composition is stable and shows no recrystallization of the Reb A.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • Dermatology (AREA)
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  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, de préférence une composition cosmétique, comprenant, dans un milieu acceptable du point de vue cosmétique, un rébaudioside A et au moins un composé oxyéthyléné non ionique. L'invention concerne également un procédé permettant de stabiliser le rébaudioside A dans une phase aqueuse dans une composition, un kit et des procédés de traitement cosmétique stimulant, restaurant ou régulant le métabolisme des mélanocytes de la peau, afin de prévenir, réduire et/ou traiter un défaut cutané, pour éclaircir la peau, pour stimuler, restaurer ou réguler le métabolisme des cellules de la peau ou des membranes semi-muqueuses et pour prévenir et/ou traiter les signes du vieillissement de la peau ou des membranes semi-muqueuses.
PCT/IB2014/059303 2013-02-28 2014-02-27 Composition contenant un rébaudioside a et un tensioactif oxyéthyléné WO2014132219A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1351798A FR3002447B1 (fr) 2013-02-28 2013-02-28 Composition comprenant du rebaudioside a et un polymere de type alcool polyvinylique
FR1351797 2013-02-28
FR1351797A FR3002443B1 (fr) 2013-02-28 2013-02-28 Composition contenant du rebaudioside a et un tensioactif oxyethylene
FR1351798 2013-02-28

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WO2014132219A3 WO2014132219A3 (fr) 2014-11-27

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WO2010118218A1 (fr) 2009-04-09 2010-10-14 Cargill, Incorporated Composition d'édulcorant comprenant une forme de rébaudioside a à solubilité élevée et procédé de fabrication
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WO2010118218A1 (fr) 2009-04-09 2010-10-14 Cargill, Incorporated Composition d'édulcorant comprenant une forme de rébaudioside a à solubilité élevée et procédé de fabrication
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