WO2014090524A2

WO2014090524A2 - Active substance combination for skin lightening ii

Info

Publication number: WO2014090524A2
Application number: PCT/EP2013/074218
Authority: WO
Inventors: Daniela KEßLER-BECKER; Susanne Dickhof; Marianne Waldmann-Laue
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2012-12-12
Filing date: 2013-11-20
Publication date: 2014-06-19
Also published as: DE102012222969A1; WO2014090524A3

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic agents for lightening the skin and/or age spots, containing, in relation to their weight - 0.001 to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.005 to 15 wt.%, more preferably 0.01 to 10 wt.%, still more preferably 0.05 to 5 wt.%, and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt.% of at least one extract of Quassia Amara, which are characterized by particularly good skin-lightening properties that can be utilized also under UV radiation (sunlight).

Description

"Active ingredient combination for skin lightening II"

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the cosmetic and topical dermatological skin whitening or for the prevention of skin tanning, in particular the skin tanning caused by UV radiation, and for the lightening of age spots or freckles.

The pigmentation of the skin is carried out by melanocytes, which are found in the lowest layer of the epidermis in addition to the basal cells as either isolated or frequently occurring pigment-forming cells depending on the skin type. Melanocytes contain melanosomes in which melanin is formed. Through various chemical and / or physical influences, in particular by UV radiation, melanin is increasingly formed. This is transported via the keratinocytes into the corneocytes (horny layer) and leads to a brownish to brown-black skin color. Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine is converted with the participation of the enzyme tyrosinase via several intermediates to the brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI melanin) or with the participation of sulfur-containing compounds to the reddish phaeomelanin. Melanin formation - and thus skin color - is subject to external influences and may cause unwanted effects in addition to desirable effects ("healthy tan"), eg UV radiation can lead to freckles Skin aging ("age spots") occur. Since the process of desquamation (superficial detachment of cells or cell groups from their epithelial dressing) involves a constant loss of melanin, lightening of the skin can be achieved by inhibiting the new synthesis of melanin. Age spots are a sign of aging that requires special treatment. As it is not a more intense pigmentation of the skin, but in fact accumulations of the brownish-waxy pigment lipofuscin (also age or wear pigment), which is the end product of the oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids of cell membranes. The lysosomes are no longer able to completely degrade the substance. So he stays back as a stain.

Effective cosmetic skin whitening compositions are known. However, these usually contain as active ingredient hydroquinone or kojic acid (for the inhibition of tyrosinase). Both substances are mutagenic and should therefore not be used for prolonged periods.

Alternative skin lightening agents are also disclosed in the prior art.

It was still the object to provide storage-stable skin-lightening compositions which are highly effective, even under UV irradiation (sunlight) applicable and as possible based on natural substances. In addition, further positive effects on older skin should be made possible, in particular a reduction of wrinkles.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that extracts of bitter wood show particularly good skin lightening properties, which are also usable under UV irradiation (sunlight). The present invention in a first embodiment, cosmetic compositions for lightening the skin and / or age spots, containing - based on their weight - 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% of at least one extract from Quassia Amara.

The Quassia amara, Brazilian Quassia tree, Quassia tree, Quassia tree, Bitter quassia or as some other species also called Bitter wood, is a plant species in the family Bittereschengewächse (Simaroubaceae). It is widespread in the Neotropics. The extracts used according to the invention are preferably obtained from the wood.

Extracts from Quassia amara can according to known manufacturing processes in variable composition with solvents such. As water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc., and mixtures thereof at temperatures from room temperature to 100 ° C under mild to vigorous mixing within 10 min. To 24 hours. Under atmospheric pressure up to 200 bar. For enrichment of effectiveness-determining components further concentration steps can be carried out such. B. liquid-liquid distribution with z. B. 1-butanol / water or ethyl acetate / water, adsorption-desorption on ion exchanger, LH20, HP20 and other resins or chromatographic separations over RP18, silica gel, etc .. If the further processing to dry extracts is desired, this is carried out according to known methods by stripping off the solvent at elevated temperature and / or reduced pressure.

The cosmetic effect of the Quassia extracts can be further enhanced by certain peptides, with particular pentapeptides have proven to be effective in addition to protein hydrolysates in particular. Cosmetic compositions containing, by weight, from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one pentapeptide containing the amino acids serine, cysteine, isoleucine, asparagine and threonine, preferably the pentapeptide obtainable under the INCI name Pentapeptide-28, are particularly preferred.

Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent. , even more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one pentapeptide from the group Ser-Cys-Ile-Asp-Thr, Ser-Cys-Ile-Thr-Asp, Ser Cys-Asp-Ile-Thr, Ser-Cys-Asp-Thr-Ile, Ser-Cys-Thr-Ile-Asp, Ser-Cys-Thr-Asp-Ile, Ser-Ile-Cys-Asp-Thr, Ser Ile-Cys-Thr-Asp, Ser-Ile-Asp-Cys-Thr, Ser-Ile-Asp-Thr-Cys, Ser-Ile Thr-Asp-Cys, Ser-Ile-Thr-Cys-Asp, Ser-Asp-Thr-Ile-Cys, Ser-Asp-Thr-Cys-Ile, Ser-Asp-Ile-Cys-Thr, Ser-Asp Ile-Thr-Cys, Ser-Asp-Cys-Thr-Ile, Ser-Asp-Cys-Ile-Thr, Ser-Thr-Asp-Cys-Ile, Ser-Thr-Asp-Ile-Cys, Ser-Thr Cys-Ile-Asp, Ser-Thr-Cys-Asp-Ile, Ser-Thr-Ile-Cys-Asp, Ser-Thr-Ile-Asp-Cys, Thr-Cys-Ile-Asp-Ser, Thr-Cys- Ile-Ser-Asp, Thr-Cys-Asp-Ile-Ser, Thr-Cys-Asp-Ser-Ile, Thr-Cys-Ser-Ile-Asp, Thr-Cys-Ser-Asp-Ile, Thr-Ile- Cys-Asp-Ser, Thr-Ile-Cys-Ser-Asp, Thr-Ile-Asp-Cys-Ser, Thr-Ile-Asp-Ser-Cys, Thr-Ile-Ser-Asp-Cys, Thr-Ile- Ser-Cys-Asp, Thr-Asp-Ser-Ile-Cys, Thr-Asp-Ser-Cys-Ile, Thr-Asp-Ile-Cys-Ser, Thr-Asp-Ile-Ser-Cys, Thr-Asp- Cys-Ser-Ile, Thr-Asp-Cys-Ile-Ser, Thr-Ser-Asp-Cys-Ile, Thr-Ser-Asp-Ile-Cys, Thr-Ser-Cys-Ile-Asp, Thr-Ser Cys-Asp-Ile, Thr-Ser-Ile-Cys-Asp, Thr-Ser-Ile-Asp-Cys, Cys-Ser-Ile-Asp-Thr, Cys-Ser-Ile-Thr-Asp, Cys-Ser Cys-Ser-Thr-Ile-Asp, Cys-Ser-Thr-Asp-Ile, Cys-Ile-Ser-Asp-Thr, Cys-Ile- Ser-Thr-Asp, Cys-Ile-Asp-Ser-Thr, Cys-Ile-Asp-Thr -Ser, Cys-Ile-Thr-Asp-Ser, Cys-Ile-Thr-Ser-Asp, Cys-Asp-Thr-Ile-Ser, Cys-Asp-Thr-Ser-Ile, Cys-Asp-Ile-Ser Cys-Asp-Ile-Thr-Ser, Cys-Asp-Ser-Thr-Ile, Cys-Asp-Ser-Ile-Thr, Cys-Thr-Asp-Ser-Ile, Cys-Thr-Asp-Ile -Ser, Cys-Thr-Ser-Ile-Asp, Cys-Thr-Ser-Asp-Ile, Cys-Thr-Ile-Ser-Asp, Cys-Thr-Ile-Asp-Ser, Asp-Cys-Ser-Ser Thr-Asp, Asp-Cys-Ser-Thr-Ser, Asp-Cys-Ser-Ser-Thr, Asp-Cys-Ser-Thr-Ser, Asp-Cys-Thr-Ser-Ser, Asp-Cys-Thr-Ser -Ser, Asp-Ser-Cys-Ser-Thr, Asp-Ser-Cys-Thr-Ser, Asp-Ser-Ser-Cys-Thr, Asp-Ser-Ser-Thr-Cys, Asp-Ser-Thr-Ser -Cys, Asp-Ser-Thr-Cys-Ser, Asp-Ser-Thr-Ser-Cys, Asp-Ser-Thr-Cys-Ser, Asp-Ser-Ser-Cys-Thr, Asp-Ser-Ser-Thr -Cys, Asp-Ser-Cys-Thr-Ser, Asp-Ser-Cys-Ser-Thr, Asp-Thr-Ser-Cys-Ser, Asp-Thr-Ser-Ser-Cys, Asp-Thr-Cys-Ser -Ser, Asp-Thr-Cys-Ser-Ser, Asp-Thr-Ser-Cys-Ser, Asp-Thr-Ser-Ser-Cys, Ile-Cys-Ser-Asp-Thr, Ile-Cys-Ser-Thr -Asp, Ile-Cys-Asp-Ser-Thr, Ile-Cys-Asp-Thr-Ser, Ile-Cys-Thr-Ser-Asp, Ile-Cys-Thr-Asp-Ser, Ile-Ser-Cys-Asp Thr, Ile-Ser-Cys-Thr-Asp, Ile-Ser-Asp-Cys-Thr, Ile-Ser-Asp-Thr-Cys, Ile-Ser-Thr-Asp-Cys, Ile-Ser-Thr-Cys-Asp, Ile-Asp-Thr-Ser-Cys, Ile-Asp-Thr-Cys-Ser, Ile-Asp-Ser-Cys-Thr, Ile-Asp-Ser-Thr-Cys, Ile-Asp-Cys-Thr-Ser, Ile-Asp-Cys-Ser-Thr, Ile-Thr-Asp-Cys-Ser, Ile-Thr-Asp-Ser-Cys, Ile-Thr-Cys-Ser-Asp, Ile-Thr-Cys-Asp-Ser, Ile-Thr-Ser-Cys-Asp, Ile-Thr-Ser-Asp-Cys and / or mixtures thereof, wherein the total amount of pentapeptides from this group preferably 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 17.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 15 wt .-%, even further preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% is.

The skin lightening effect, the effectiveness even under UV exposure (sunshine) and the skin compatibility of the compositions according to the invention can be surprisingly further increased by the use of geranylgeranylpropanol. According to the invention, particularly preferred cosmetic agents contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% Geranylgeranylpropanol

Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent

a) 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 Wt .-% of at least one extract from Quassia Amara and

b) from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular 1 up to 5% by weight of at least one pentapeptide from the group Ser-Cys-Ile-Asp-Thr, Ser-Cys-Ile-Thr-Asp, Ser-Cys-Asp-Ile-Thr, Ser-Cys-Asp-Thr Ile, Ser-Cys-Thr-Ile-Asp, Ser-Cys-Thr-Asp-Ile, Ser-Ile-Cys-Asp-Thr, Ser-Ile-Cys-Thr-Asp, Ser-Ile-Asp-Cys- Thr, Ser-Ile-Asp-Thr-Cys, Ser-Ile-Thr-Asp-Cys, Ser-Ile-Thr-Cys-Asp, Ser-Asp-Thr-Ile-Cys, Ser-Asp-Thr-Cys- Ile, Ser-Asp-Ile-Cys-Thr, Ser-Asp-Ile-Thr-Cys, Ser-Asp-Cys-Thr-Ile, Ser-Asp-Cys-Ile-Thr, Ser-Thr-Asp-Cys Ile, Ser-Thr-Asp-Ile-Cys, Ser-Thr-Cys-Ile-Asp, Ser-Thr-Cys-Asp-Ile, Ser-Thr-Ile-Cys-Asp, Ser-Thr-Ile-Asp Cys, Thr-Cys-Ile-Asp-Ser, Thr-Cys-Ile-Ser-Asp, Thr-Cys-Asp-Ile-Ser, Thr-Cys-Asp-Ser-Ile, Thr-Cys-Ser-Ile Asp, Thr-Cys-Ser-Asp-Ile, Thr-Ile-Cys-Asp-Ser, Thr-Ile-Cys-Ser-Asp, Thr-Ile-Asp-Cys-Ser, Thr-Ile-Asp-Ser Cys, Thr-Ile-Ser-Asp-Cys, Thr-Ile-Ser-Cys-Asp, Thr-Asp-Ser-Ile-Cys, Th r-Asp-Ser-Cys-Ile, Thr-Asp-Ile-Cys-Ser, Thr-Asp-Ile-Ser-Cys, Thr-Asp-Cys-Ser-Ile, Thr-Asp-Cys-Ile-Ser, Thr-Ser-Asp-Cys-Ile, Thr-Ser-Asp-Ile-Cys, Thr-Ser-Cys-Ile-Asp, Thr-Ser-Cys-Asp-Ile, Thr-Ser-Ile-Cys-Asp, Thr-Ser-Ile-Asp-Cys, Cys-Ser-Ile-Asp-Thr, Cys-Ser-Ile-Thr-Asp, Cys-Ser-Asp-Ile-Thr, Cys-Ser-Asp-Thr-Ile, Cys-Ser-Thr-Ile-Asp, Cys-Ser-Thr-Asple, Cys-Ile-Ser-Asp-Thr, Cys-Ile-Ser-Thr-Asp, Cys-Ile-Asp-Ser-Thr, Cys-Ile-Asp-Thr-Ser, Cys-Ile-Thr-Asp-Ser, Cys-Ile-Thr-Ser-Asp, Cys-Asp-Thr-Ile-Ser, Cys-Asp-Thr-Ser-Ile, Cys-Asp-Ile-Ser-Thr, Cys-Asp-Ile-Thr-Ser, Cys-Asp-Ser-Thr-Ile, Cys-Asp-Ser-Ile-Thr, Cys-Thr-Asp-Ser-Ile, Cys-Thr-Asp-Ile-Ser, Cys-Thr-Ser-Ile-Asp, Cys-Thr-Ser-Asp-Ile, Cys-Thr-Ile-Ser-Asp, Cys-Thr-Ile-Asp-Ser, Asp-Cys-Ser-Ser-Thr, Asp-Cys-Ser-Thr-Ser, Asp-Cys-Ser-Ser-Thr, Asp-Cys-Ser-Thr-Ser, Asp-Cys-Thr-Ser-Ser, Asp-Cys-Thr-Ser-Ser, Asp-Ser-Cys-Ser-Thr, Asp-Ser-Cys-Thr-Ser, Asp-Ser-Ser-Cys-Thr, Asp-Ser-Ser-Thr-Cys, Asp-Ser-Thr-Ser-Cys, Asp-Ser-Thr-Cys-Ser, Asp-Ser-T hr-Ser-Cys, Asp-Ser-Thr-Cys-Ser, Asp-Ser-Ser-Cys-Thr, Asp-Ser-Ser-Thr-Cys, Asp-Ser-Cys-Thr-Ser, Asp-Ser Cys-Ser-Thr, Asp-Thr-Ser-Cys-Ser, Asp-Thr-Ser-Ser-Cys, Asp-Thr-Cys-Ser-Ser, Asp-Thr-Cys-Ser-Ser, Asp-Thr Ser-Cys-Ser, Asp-Thr-Ser-Ser-Cys, Ile-Cys-Ser-Asp-Thr, Ile-Cys-Ser-Thr-Asp, Ile-Cys-Asp-Ser-Thr, all-cys- Asp-Thr-Ser, Ile-Cys-Thr-Ser-Asp, Ile-Cys-Thr-Asp-Ser, Ile-Ser-Cys-Asp-Thr, Ile-Ser-Cys-Thr-Asp, Ile-Ser Asp-Cys-Thr, Ile-Ser-Asp-Thr-Cys, Ile-Ser-Thr-Asp-Cys, Ile-Ser-Thr-Cys-Asp, Ile-Asp-Thr-Ser-Cys, Ile-Asp Thr-Cys-Ser, Ile-Asp-Ser-Cys-Thr, Ile-Asp-Ser-Thr-Cys, Ile-Asp-Cys-Thr-Ser, Ile-Asp-Cys-Ser-Thr, Ile-Thr Asp-Cys-Ser, Ile-Thr-Asp-Ser-Cys, Ile-Thr-Cys-Ser-Asp, Ile-Thr-Cys-Asp-Ser, Ile-Thr-Ser-Cys-Asp, Ile-Thr-Ser-Asp-Cys and / or their mixtures and

c) 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 1 % By weight of geranylgeranylpropanol.

Leaf extracts of the olive tree can further increase the skin compatibility of the compositions according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0, 5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one extract of the leaves of the olive tree (Olea Europea) included.

According to the invention, particularly preferred cosmetic agents are contained, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent

b) from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular 1 up to 5% by weight of at least one pentapeptide from the group Ser-Cys-Ile-Asp-Thr, Ser-Cys-Ile-Thr-Asp, Ser-Cys-Asp-Ile-Thr, Ser-Cys-Asp-Thr Ile, Ser-Cys-Thr-Ile-Asp, Ser-Cys-Thr-Asp-Ile, Ser-Ile-Cys-Asp-Thr, Ser-Ile-Cys-Thr-Asp, Ser-Ile-Asp-Cys- Thr, Ser-Ile-Asp-Thr-Cys, Ser-Ile-Thr-Asp-Cys, Ser-Ile-Thr-Cys-Asp, Ser-Asp-Thr-Ile-Cys, Ser-Asp-Thr-Cys- Ile, Ser-Asp-Ile-Cys-Thr, Ser-Asp-Ile-Thr-Cys, Ser-Asp-Cys-Thr-Ile, Ser-Asp-Cys-Ile-Thr, Ser-Thr-Asp-Cys Ile, Ser-Thr-Asp-Ile-Cys, Ser-Thr-Cys-Ile-Asp, Ser-Thr-Cys-Asp-Ile, Ser-Thr-Ile-Cys-Asp, Ser-Thr-Ile-Asp Cys, Thr-Cys-Ile-Asp-Ser, Thr-Cys-Ile-Ser-Asp, Thr-Cys-Asp-Ile-Ser, Thr-Cys-Asp-Ser-Ile, Thr-Cys-Ser-Ile Asp, Thr-Cys-Ser-Asp-Ile, Thr-Ile-Cys-Asp-Ser, Thr-Ile-Cys-Ser-Asp, Thr-Ile-Asp-Cys-Ser, Thr-Ile-Asp-Ser Cys, Thr-Ile-Ser-Asp-Cys, Thr-Ile-Ser-Cys-Asp, Thr-Asp-Ser-Ile-Cys, Th r-Asp-Ser-Cys-Ile, Thr-Asp-Ile-Cys-Ser, Thr-Asp-Ile-Ser-Cys, Thr-Asp-Cys-Ser-Ile, Thr-Asp-Cys-Ile-Ser, Thr-Ser-Asp-Cys-Ile, Thr-Ser-Asp-Ile-Cys, Thr-Ser-Cys-Ile-Asp, Thr-Ser-Cys-Asp-Ile, Thr-Ser-Ile-Cys-Asp, Thr-Ser-Ile-Asp-Cys, Cys-Ser-Ile-Asp-Thr, Cys-Ser-Ile-Thr-Asp, Cys-Ser-Asp-Ile-Thr, Cys-Ser-Asp-Thr-Ile, Cys-Ser-Thr-Ile-Asp, Cys-Ser-Thr-Asple, Cys-Ile-Ser-Asp-Thr, Cys-Ile-Ser-Thr-Asp, Cys-Ile-Asp-Ser-Thr, Cys-Ile-Asp-Thr-Ser, Cys-Ile-Thr-Asp-Ser, Cys-Ile-Thr-Ser-Asp, Cys-Asp-Thr-Ile-Ser, Cys-Asp-Thr-Ser-Ile, Cys-Asp-Ile-Ser-Thr, Cys-Asp-Ile-Thr-Ser, Cys-Asp-Ser-Thr-Ile, Cys-Asp-Ser-Ile-Thr, Cys-Thr-Asp-Ser-Ile, Cys-Thr-Asp-Ile-Ser, Cys-Thr-Ser-Ile-Asp, Cys-Thr-Ser-Asp-Ile, Cys-Thr-Ile-Ser-Asp, Cys-Thr-Ile-Asp-Ser, Asp-Cys-Ser-Ser-Thr, Asp-Cys-Ser-Thr-Ser, Asp-Cys-Ser-Ser-Thr, Asp-Cys-Ser-Thr-Ser, Asp-Cys-Thr-Ser-Ser, Asp-Cys-Thr-Ser-Ser, Asp-Ser-Cys-Ser-Thr, Asp-Ser-Cys-Thr-Ser, Asp-Ser-Ser-Cys-Thr, Asp-Ser-Ser-Thr-Cys, Asp-Ser-Thr-Ser-Cys, Asp-Ser-Thr-Cys-Ser, Asp-Ser-Thr-Ser-Cys, Asp-Ser-Thr-Cys-Ser, Asp-Ser-Ser-Cys-Thr, Asp-Ser-Ser-Thr-Cys, Asp-Ser-Cys-Thr-Ser, Asp-Ser-Cys-Ser-Thr, Asp-Thr-Ser-Cys-Ser, Asp-Thr-Ser-Ser-Cys, Asp-Thr-Cys-Ser-Ser, Asp-Thr-Cys-Ser-Ser, Asp-Thr-Ser-Cys-Ser, Asp-Thr-Ser-Ser-Cys, Ile-Cys-Ser-Asp-Thr, Ile-Cys-Ser-Thr-Asp, Ile-Cys-Asp-Ser-Thr, lle-Cys-Asp-Thr-Ser, Ile-Cys-Thr-Ser-Asp, Ile-Cys-Thr-Asp-Ser, Ile-Ser-Cys-Asp-Thr, Ile-Ser-Cys-Thr-Asp, Ile-Ser-Asp-Cys-Thr, Ile-Ser-Asp-Thr-Cys, Ile-Ser-Thr-Asp-Cys, Ile-Ser-Thr-Cys-Asp, Ile-Asp-Thr-Ser-Cys, Ile-Asp-Thr-Cys-Ser, Ile-Asp-Ser-Cys-Thr, Ile-Asp-Ser-Thr-Cys, Ile-Asp-Cys-Thr-Ser, Ile-Asp-Cys-Ser-Thr, Ile-Thr-Asp-Cys-Ser, Ile-Thr-Asp-Ser-Cys, Ile-Thr-Cys-Ser-Asp, Ile-Thr-Cys-Asp-Ser, Ile-Thr-Ser-Cys-Asp, Ile-Thr-Ser-Asp-Cys and / or their mixtures and

c) 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 1 Wt .-% geranylgeranylpropanol and

d) from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one extract of the leaves of the olive tree (Olea Europea).

Chinese date extracts further increase the UV tolerance of the skin treated with the agents of the invention and thus increase cosmetic success, so that preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized by being from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 17% by weight. 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight of at least one extract from the Chinese date (Ziziphus jujuba) contain.

As a further ingredient, the compositions according to the invention may contain at least one extract of Brassicae plants. The Kreuzblütengewächse (Brassicaceae or Cruciferae), also called cruciferous plants, are a plant family in the order of the cruciferous (Brassicales). The family contains about 336 (up to 419) genera with about 3,000 to 4,130 species. It is by many crops of great economic importance.

Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 17.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent. , even more preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one extract from Brassicae plants.

Brassica napus has proved to be particularly suitable among the Brassica plants. Extracts of Brassica Napus increase the skin lightening effect of Opuntia extracts and also lead to improved skin tolerance and a more intense and less irritating effect even under sunlight. Rapeseed (Brassica napus) is a plant of the family Brassica (Brassicaceae). The turnip Brassica napus subsp. Rapifera is a subspecies of oilseed rape (Brassica napus).

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent from 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 17.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably 0 , 5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one extract of Brassica Napus contain, are preferred embodiments of the present invention.

Also in this extract, the ingredients obtained by extraction can be chemically modified, in particular, the hydrolysis of particular importance. In addition, it has proved advantageous to ferment parts of Braissica napus before extraction, since the efficacy of the extracts is increased in this way. Cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent from 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 17.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, even more preferably 0 , 5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one wholly or partially hydrolyzed extract from fermented plant parts of Brassica Napus, are particularly preferred.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical treatment of the skin which are particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from:

Monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂ 4-acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances,

- DNA repair enzymes,

- DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,

- vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances,

a-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or salt form,

Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts,

- ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,

- Silymarin,

- Ectoin,

inorganic and organic UV filter substances,

- self-tanning,

- soothing,

- moisturizing and - Sebumregulierenden agents and

- Mixtures of these substances.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂ 4-acylamino acids are preferably selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, Isodesmosin, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, Sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, taurine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ - C 4 acyl group _2, with the said amino acids are derivatized at the amino group is selected from acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl -, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides according to the invention are Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (eg calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His) and N-palmitoyl-Arg-Arg. Particularly preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripotides are Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (tripeptide-2), tripeptides-4 (eg ATPeptide, available via IMPAG), His- Ala-Orn and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ . N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-Palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, which may be N-acylated and / or esterified according to the invention Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-Benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for the inhibition of desquamation). Preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (eg modulenes from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (cf. eg, SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapep tide-2 (eg, Vincan's melanostatine-DM), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine. Trp (hexapeptide-7) and hexapeptide-1 1 (e.g., Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively particularly preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1).

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions for topical treatment of the skin which are particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that they furthermore comprise at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.

The UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or unsymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadiene-carboxylic acid esters and -carbonsäureamiden, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the said components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione, 3- (4 ^{methylbenzylidene)} -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester Ethyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), salicylic acid 2- ethylhexyl ester, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2 ' Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) - benzoesäurhexylester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylest he, bound to polymers UV filter, z. B. the 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS No. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX), triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido tri- Azone, under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'- ethyl 1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazin-2-yl ] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] - 6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- ( 2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazole -2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS no. : 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS # 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS # 003147-75-9) No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl ) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy phen] yl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine or Aniso Triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4 - (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4 - (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (4-bis-) 3- (2-propyl-oxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4 tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methylpropenyloxy ) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and mixtures of the above components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which are available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898- 37-7), which is available for example under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers such. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS.No. .: 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. For example, solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (eg, Parsol 1789) in various UV-B filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-methoxy cinnamic acid, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. According to the invention, at least one organic UV filter substance is preferably in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, even more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 3 , 0 - 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

According to the invention, at least one inorganic UV filter substance is preferably in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10% by weight, most preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 2 , 0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

The compositions of the invention contain the respective active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. This cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous-glycolic. Such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as, for example, shower gels or other preparations which are suitable for use on the skin. For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier preferably contains at least 40% by weight, more preferably at least 50% by weight, of water. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from 10 to 80% by weight, preferably from 20 to 75% by weight, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, more preferably 30 to 70 wt .-%, still more preferably 35 to 60 wt .-% and in particular 40 to 60 wt .-% water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 60% by weight, particularly preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, of a monohydric C ₂ -C ₄ - Alcohol, especially ethanol, to understand.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-glycolic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight, preferably 10 to 60% by weight, more preferably 15 to 40% by weight, of at least one di- or polyvalent C ₂ C ₉ alcohol or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 - 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular selected from 1, 2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol , 1, 4-Butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1, 6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol , Dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16 , PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol mono-n butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

The compositions according to the invention can be formulated in all administration forms suitable for topical application to the skin. Preferred dosage forms are a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsion, an oil-in-water type emulsion (O / W), a multiple emulsion, such as water-in-oil type Water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion, a lipodispersion, a gel, a hydrodispersion gel, a lipodispersion gel, a solid stick, a gel patch (Gelpatch ), a patch, a cataplasm, drug-containing liposomes or a transdermal therapeutic system. Low-viscous or medium-viscosity dosage forms may also be packaged in a propellant-free pump or spray dispenser or together with a propellant in an aerosol container.

The ready-to-use agents according to the invention may contain further auxiliaries and additives. Thus, it has proven advantageous for the application and the fate of the composition on the skin if the compositions contain at least one thickener. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used. Suitable thickeners are

anionic synthetic polymers;

cationic synthetic polymers;

- naturally occurring thickeners, such as guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan gum, agar-agar, Locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses;

nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; such as

inorganic thickening agents, in particular phyllosilicates, for example bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite.

For the purposes of the present application, "flowable" are compositions which are pourable and can have viscosities of from 10 mPa.s to 250,000 mPa.s (20 ° C.) conventional standard methods (for example, Brookfield LVT-II viscosimeter at 20 rpm and 20 ° C., spindle 3), and is preferably in the range of 50 to 50,000 mPa.s Preferred agents have viscosities of 1,000 to 30,000 mPas, with values from 5,000 to 20,000 mPas are particularly preferred.

The compositions of the invention may further contain additional active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives. According to the invention emulsions, z. As in the form of a cream, a lotion or a cosmetic milk, are advantageous and contain z. As fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, and water and one or more emulsifiers, such as are commonly used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to provide the compositions according to the invention as aqueous systems or surfactant compositions for cleaning and care of the skin. This preferably comprises shower gels, scalp tonics, sprays, etc. The use of surfactants (E) in the compositions according to the invention has proved to be particularly advantageous. In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention therefore contain surfactants. The term "surfactants" is understood as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglycerol disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are surface active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^<_) in the molecule - Wear group - or -S0 ₃ ^<_). Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycineate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethyl-hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are meant those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ - contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group in the molecule and alkyl or acyl group to form - C ₂ 4 internal salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d ₂ -C ₈ -acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or

Fatty acid proved. Compositions having excellent properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example

1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1- Decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate. Furthermore, very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.

Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines can be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. According to the invention, preference is given to using QAV with behenyl radicals, in particular the substances known as behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide). Other preferred QAV's have at least two behenyl residues, with QAV being particularly preferred, which are two behenyl residues on an imidazolinium backbone. Commercially available, these substances, for example, under the names Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant) and Crodazosoft ^® DBQ (Crodauza) are.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.

The cationic surfactants are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. The surfactants (E) are preferably used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention ,

In summary, preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention which contain 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably 1 to 60% by weight and in particular 5 to 25% by weight of anionic (s) and / or by weight nonionic and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂ 2-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂ 2-alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, oligomerization degrees of from 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and of animal tissue (zoosterines) as well be isolated from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols. Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

As further advantageous, it has been shown that polymers (G) are included in the inventive compositions. In a preferred embodiment, polymers are therefore added to the compositions according to the invention, with both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are preferably usable according to the invention. Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (Ethnichem) in trade. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol (with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene pylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer ^®

^JR® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives,

cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ^® and Jaguar ^® products,

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and - methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylamino ethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain. Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ^® HS 1 10, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are available.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are available commercially, for example under the trade names.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the agents according to the invention can also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. In the context of the present invention, preferably usable zwitterionic polymers are composed essentially together

A) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Z-1),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ( ⁺ ) R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A <^" ) ( ^{Ζ ~} ')

In which R and R ² independently represent hydrogen or a methyl group and

R, R and R ° independently represent alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z a

NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A (~) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid

and B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (II)

in which and Fi7 are independently hydrogen or

Are methyl groups.

Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom. The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, those monomers of the formula (Z-I) are used, which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Likewise preferred are those

Monomers of the formula (Z-1) in which R 1, R 2 and R 2 are methyl groups. The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of the formula (Z-1). Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.

The cationic or amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer, where the sulfonic acid group may be completely or partially present as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt, have proved to be particularly effective , Particularly preferred are homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or its salts, as described, for. B. as Simulgel ^® 800 or Viscolam AT 100 P are available.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers are referred to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one anionic thickening polymer in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible polymer latex containing an oil phase, a water phase, at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and at least one branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte which is a copolymer which is at least a monomer having a strong acid function and at least one other monomer which is neutral or contains a weak acid function.

Preferred polyelectrolytes are composed of two, three, four, five or six different monomers, of which at least one monomer has a strong acid function and at least one further monomer is neutral or has a weak acid function.

Preference is given to the monomer combinations

strong acidity / neutral,

strong acidity / weak acidity,

strong acidity / weak acidity / neutral

strong acidity / weak acidity 1 / weak acidity 2 / neutral,

strong acidity function / weak acidity function / neutral 1 / neutral 2,

strong acid function / weak acidity 1 / weak acidity 2 / neutral 1 / neutral 2.

The above-mentioned sequence of the listing of the monomer units does not necessarily represent the actual order of the monomer units in the polyelectrolyte molecule.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyelectrolyte monomers which contain a weak acid function are selected from the monomers containing a carboxyl group -COOH which is partially or completely neutralized.

The partial neutralization of the weak acid function results in the neutralized monomer unit and the unneutralized, acidic monomer unit, for example, acrylic acid and sodium acrylate. Both monomers are considered to be the same for the purposes of the present application. Accordingly, both monomers in the sense of the present application are considered as "weak acid monomer".

Particularly preferred examples of such weakly acidic polyelectrolyte monomers are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid. Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the weak acid function of the polyelectrolyte monomer is a carboxyl group -COOH which is partially or completely neutralized, further preferred compositions according to the invention being characterized in that the monomers of the polyelectrolyte which react with the weakly acidic -COOH- Functionalized group are selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid, which are partially or completely neutralized.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyelectrolyte monomers having a strong acid group are selected from monomers which are functionalized with a sulfonic acid group -SO ₃ H or a phosphonic acid group. A particularly preferred polyelectrolyte monomer with a strong acid function is 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonic acid, which is partially or completely neutralized.

The partial neutralization of the strong acid function results in the neutralized monomer building block and the unneutralized, acidic monomer building block, for example 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid and sodium 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propane sulfonate. Both monomers are considered to be the same for the purposes of the present application. Accordingly, both monomers in the context of the present application are considered as "strong acid monomer".

Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the strong acid function of the polyelectrolyte monomer is selected from a sulphonic acid group -SO ₃ H and a phosphonic acid group which are partially or completely neutralized, further preferred compositions according to the invention being characterized in that the polyelectrolyte monomer having a strong acid function is selected is from 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid which is partially or completely neutralized.

For the purposes of the present invention, all polyelectrolyte monomers which are functionalized with a weak or strong acid group are partially or completely neutralized as sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt. Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the polyelectrolyte monomers which are functionalized with a weak or strong acid group are partially or completely neutralized as sodium, potassium, ammonium, ethanolamine or amino acid salt.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the neutral polyelectrolyte monomer is selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, the ethoxylated derivatives of the aforementioned esters having a molecular weight between 400 and 1000 g / mol, acrylamide, alkylacrylamides, such as, for example, methylacrylamide, ethylacrylamide, n-propylacrylamide and isopropylacrylamide, dialkylamides, such as dimethylacrylamide, diethylacrylamide, di-n-propylacrylamide and diisopropylacrylamide, and also polyvinylpyrrolidone. In preferred compositions of the invention, the neutral polyelectrolyte monomer is selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, the ethoxylated derivatives of said esters having a molecular weight between 400 and 1000 g / mol, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide , Diethylacrylamide, di-n-propylacrylamide, diisopropylacrylamide and Polyvinylpyrrolidone. Particularly preferred neutral polyelectrolyte monomers are selected from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and hydroxyethyl acrylate in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex are commercially available, e.g. B. under the name SimulgefNS, Simulgel ^® l-NS 100, SimulgefFL and Sepiplus ^® S from Seppic.

Also particularly preferred are partially or fully neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and acrylamide, in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex commercially available , z. B. under the trade name Simulgel ^® 600 from Seppic. Partially or completely neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and acrylic acid, in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible latex, are furthermore particularly preferred. z. Example, under the name Simulgel® ^® EC and Simulgel® ^® EPG Seppic. Also particularly preferred are partially or completely neutralized, crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS), acrylic acid or sodium acrylate, and (as the third monomer unit) dimethylacrylamide, in the form of an inverse, autoinvertible latex, e.g. Under the name SimulgefSMS 88 by Seppic.

All the abovementioned, preferably used inverse polymer latexes have in common that they contain at least one oil, preferably selected from white mineral oils, squalane, isohexadecane and (optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutene, and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier selected from the ethylene oxide adducts of Sorbitan oleate, castor oil, cured if desired, sorbitan laurate and lauryl alcohol, and further selected from the polyethylene oxide-free oil-in-water emulsifier class of C6-C22 fatty alcohol glucose ethers, in particular Caprinic Glucoside, Caprylic Glucoside, Capric Glucoside, Lauric Glucosides, myristic glucosides, cetyl glucosides, stearyl glucosides, arachidyl glucosides, behenyl glucosides, more preferably caprylic glucosides and capric glucosides. Accordingly, preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oil phase of the inverse polymer latex contains at least one oil selected from white mineral oils, squalane, isohexadecane and (optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutene. Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsifier contained in the inverse polymer latex is selected from the ethylene oxide adducts of sorbitan oleate, castor oil optionally cured, sorbitan laurate and lauryl alcohol, and caprylic glucosides and capric glucosides , The thickening polymer latices preferred according to the invention preferably have a polymer content of 30-90% by weight, preferably 35-75% by weight and more preferably 40-60% by weight, in each case based on the total latex. The polymer content of the latex, however, has only an importance for the preparation of the compositions of the invention, for. B. in relation on miscibility or meterability. For the compositions according to the invention itself, the polymer content per se, based on the composition according to the invention, is significant. Based on the total cosmetic composition according to the invention, the thickening polymer is used in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.3 to 3 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt. based on the total cosmetic composition according to the invention, wherein polymer contents of 0.4, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 3, 1 , 4, 1, 5, 1, 6, 1, 7, 1, 8, 1, 9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4 wt .-% are particularly preferred and polymer contents of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 0 and 1, 1 wt .-% may be extremely preferred.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers to increase the action of the active ingredient combination according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or S0 ₃ H groups and which are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -S0 ₃ ^" groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or S0 ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I),

R -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(_) (G3-I)

in which R and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group

(-)

or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{<_) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

The agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4) in a further preferred embodiment. Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as, for example, under the trademark

Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and cellulose moistened Methylhydroxypropylcel- as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and

Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules) are sold.

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch alkyl ethers;

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

It is also possible according to the invention that the compositions used contain a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and a amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer. The polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5, in particular from 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

Another group of care agents that may be included in the compositions of the invention are the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives (P). Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins. According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and most preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used. Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Of course, the teaching according to the invention encompasses all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers. According to the invention, it is also preferable to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P). The protein hydrolysates (P) are preferably present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, and most preferably in amounts from 0.05% by weight up to 5% by weight.

The agents according to the invention may furthermore preferably contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Particular preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof. Such polyols can promote a particularly even result of skin whitening.

According to the invention, water solubility is understood to mean a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say amounts of at least 5 g of the polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups or of the polyethylene glycol having 3-20 Ethylene oxide units in 95 g of water at 20 ° C are soluble.

These components are preferably selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols, such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols, such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1, 3 propanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG- 18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred are. Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are also suitable according to the invention.

The compositions of the invention may contain perfumes, perfume oils or perfume oil ingredients. The compositions according to the invention are suitable for lightening the skin and can be used accordingly. In this case, the skin can be locally limited (for example freckles, age spots or Fehlpigmentierungen) or large (for skin lightening) to be treated.

Further objects of the present invention are therefore the use of cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention for lightening the skin color, for reducing pigmentation of the skin, for compensating for the appearance of uneven skin pigmentation and / or for lightening age spots of the skin.

Another object of the present invention is the use of cosmetic and dermatological compositions according to the invention for the treatment of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Another object of the present invention is the use of extracts of Quassia Armara method for whitening the skin and / or for lightening age spots or freckles.

With regard to preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention, what has been said about the compositions according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Another object of the present invention is e4in a non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for lightening the skin and / or for lightening age spots or freckles, characterized in that a cosmetic agent containing at least one extract of Quassia Amara is applied to the skin.

With respect to preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the compositions of the invention.

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic agent for lightening the skin and / or age spots, containing - based on its weight - 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight of at least one extract from Quassia Amara.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 17.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, even more preferably 0 , 5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one pentapeptide containing the amino acids serine, cysteine, isoleucine, asparagine and threonine, preferably the pentapeptide available under the INCI name pentapeptide-28 contains.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is still preferred vorzu t from 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-% 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 1 wt .-% Geranylgeranylpropanol

contains.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 17.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 15 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one extract of the leaves of the olive tree (Olea Europea) contains.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 17.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 15 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one extract from the Chinese date (Ziziphus Jujuba) contains.

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 17.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 15 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one wholly or partially hydrolyzed extract of fermented plant parts of Brassica Napus contains.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises at least one further cosmetic active ingredient selected from:

a) Monomers and oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂ 4-acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, which do not stimulate collagen synthesis and do not increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts . b) DNA repair enzymes,

c) DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,

d) vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups B, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances,

e) a-H yd roxy carboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone and / or salt form,

f) extracting flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plants that do not stimulate collagen synthesis and do not increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts,

g) ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,

h) silymarin,

i) Ectoin,

j) inorganic and organic UV filter substances,

k) self-tanning active ingredients,

I) skin-calming active ingredients,

m) moisturizing active ingredients,

n) sebum-regulating active substances,

o) and mixtures of these active ingredients a) - n)

contains.

8. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is 10 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 20 to 75 wt .-%, more preferably 30 to 70 wt .-%, even more preferably 35 to 60 Wt .-% and in particular 40 to 60 wt .-% water.

9. Use of extracts of Quassia Armara procedure to lighten the skin and / or lighten age spots or freckles.

10. A non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for lightening the skin and / or for lightening age spots or freckles, characterized in that a cosmetic agent containing at least one extract of Quassia Amara be applied to the skin.