WO2014087955A1

WO2014087955A1 - Emulsion cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2014087955A1
Application number: PCT/JP2013/082317
Authority: WO
Inventors: 千紘上山; 英広長澤
Original assignee: 花王株式会社
Priority date: 2012-12-03
Filing date: 2013-12-02
Publication date: 2014-06-12
Also published as: TW201427703A; JP2014108953A; CN104812363A; CN104812363B

Abstract

An emulsion cosmetic composition which contains (A) 0.01-10% by mass of one or more compounds that are selected from among sphingosine salts and ionic surfactants, (B) one or more compounds that are selected from among linear glycerol di-fatty acid esters and linear sorbitan di-fatty acid esters, (C) an alcohol having 12-22 carbon atoms, a glycerol mono-fatty acid ester having 12-22 carbon atoms, or the like, (D) 0.01-30% by mass of a powder having an average particle diameter of 0.1-30 μm and (E) water. With respect to the components (A), (B) and (C), (1) the mass ratio of (A)/((B) + (C)) is 0.04-1, (2) the molar fraction of (B)/((B) + (C)) is 0.01-0.45, and (3) the maximum molar fraction of a single compound component in the components (B) and (C) is 0.2-0.8.

Description

Emulsified cosmetics

The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic.

Α-gel is a hydrated crystal structure and has a lamellar structure. Most of stratum corneum intercellular lipids present in the outermost stratum corneum of skin have this α-gel structure, and at the same time it suppresses invasion of substances from the outside and moisture transpiration from the inside. , By itself retaining moisture, it has the function of maintaining the skin's flexibility and smooth appearance. Therefore, as a cosmetic for obtaining a moisturizing effect, a composition that forms a liquid crystal structure has been studied. However, a composition that forms an α-gel has a problem that it becomes sticky over time after being applied to the skin. there were.

For this reason, it has been studied to obtain a smooth feeling by blending powder into α-gel (Patent Document 1).
Patent Document 2 describes a cosmetic in which a lamellar liquid crystal structure is formed using a surfactant having an HLB of 10 or less and a powder is blended.

JP 2006-36763 A JP 2006-56851 A

The present invention includes the following components (A), (B), (C), (D) and (E):
(A) 0.01 to 10% by mass of one or more compounds selected from sphingosine salts and ionic surfactants,
(B) 1 type or 2 types of compounds chosen from di linear fatty acid glycerin ester and di linear fatty acid sorbitan ester,
(C) a compound represented by the general formula (3), an alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a monofatty acid glycerin ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a monoalkyl glyceryl ether having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a monocarbon having 12 to 22 carbon atoms One or more compounds selected from fatty acid sorbitan esters

(Wherein R ¹¹ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms or a hydrogen atom, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group. Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom; X ¹¹ , X ¹² and X ¹³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group, and X ¹⁴ represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group; or shown, together with the adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group (provided that when Z is a methine group, either X ¹¹ and X ¹² is a hydrogen atom, is .X ¹⁴ to the other is not present X ¹³ is not present when forming an oxo group.); R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; R ¹⁴ is a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl A linear or branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated carbon atom having 5 to 60 carbon atoms, which may have an ether bond, ester bond or amide bond in the main chain, which may be substituted by a group or amino group Represents a hydrogen group; R ¹⁵ represents a hydrogen atom, or may have a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. A saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group of the chain (provided that when R ¹¹ is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R ¹⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms in total, and R ¹¹ is a hydrocarbon group; When R ¹⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in total; the broken line portion may indicate an unsaturated bond)
(D) 0.01-30% by mass of powder having an average particle size of 0.1-30 μm,
(E) water,
In components (A), (B) and (C),
(1) The mass ratio of (A) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.04 to 1,
(2) The molar fraction of (B) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.01 to 0.45,
(3) The maximum molar fraction of one compound single component in (B) + (C) constituents is 0.2 to 0.8.
It is related with the emulsified cosmetics which are.

In the composition described in Patent Document 1, the liquid crystal structure is broken at the time of application, and an α-gel film is not formed. Therefore, it is difficult to uniformly adhere the powder, and both a high moisturizing effect and non-stickiness are achieved. It is also difficult. Moreover, the composition described in Patent Document 2 does not describe a specific effect regarding the relationship between the lamellar liquid crystal structure and the powder.

The present invention forms a uniform and flexible lamellar α-gel structure film containing powder on the skin surface when applied to the skin, and the powder adheres uniformly and is difficult to remove against friction. The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic that maintains a high moisturizing effect and non-stickiness.

The present inventors have (A) one or more compounds selected from sphingosine salts and ionic surfactants, and (B) one or two compounds selected from di-linear fatty acid glycerin esters and di-linear fatty acid sorbitan esters. One compound or two or more compounds selected from (C) ceramide, higher alcohol, monoglycerin monofatty acid ester, monoalkyl glyceryl ether, sorbitan monofatty acid ester, (D) powder within a specific range By adjusting to a uniform and flexible lamellar α-gel structure film containing powder on the skin surface, the powder adheres uniformly and is difficult to remove against friction. I found that stickiness persists.

The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention forms a uniform and flexible lamellar α-gel film containing powder on the skin surface after application, and the powder adheres uniformly and is difficult to remove against friction. High moisturizing effect and non-stickiness last.

[Component (A)]
Component (A) used in the present invention is one or more compounds selected from sphingosine salts and ionic surfactants. In addition, here, even if it is a compound classified into the same ionic surfactant, two or more types of compounds are regarded as two or more types if the structures are different.
Among the compounds of component (A) used in the present invention, examples of sphingosine include sphingosine represented by general formula (1).

(Wherein R ¹ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group; A methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom; each of X ¹ , X ² and X ³ independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group, and X ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group Together with an adjacent oxygen atom to form an oxo group (provided that when Y is a methine group, ^one of X ¹ and X ² is a hydrogen atom and the other does not exist. X ⁴ is an oxo group) X ³ is not present when R.sup.3 is present.); R ² and R ³ each independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; a R each independently represents a hydrogen atom. Or an amidino group or hydro A linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having a total of 1 to 8 carbon atoms which may have a substituent selected from a sil group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group and an acetoxy group; 2 or 3 is shown; the broken line indicates that it may be an unsaturated bond)

In the formula, R ¹ is a straight chain or branched chain having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 22 carbon atoms optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group. It is a chain or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group. In particular, a linear or branched alkyl group having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, a linear or branched alkyl group having 10 to 20 carbon atoms having a hydroxyl group at the Y-side end, and a branched chain in the case of a branched alkyl group. Are preferably methyl-branched. Specifically, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a 1-hydroxytridecyl group, a 1-hydroxypentadecyl group, an isohexadecyl group, and an isostearyl group are preferable.

Y represents a methylene group (CH ₂ ), a methine group (CH), or an oxygen atom.
X ¹ , X ² , and X ³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, or an acetoxy group, and X ⁴ represents an oxo group together with a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group, a glyceryl group, or an adjacent oxygen atom. The substituent to be formed is shown. In particular, among X ¹ , X ² , and X ³ , those in which 0 to 1 are hydroxyl groups, the remainder is a hydrogen atom, and X ⁴ is a hydrogen atom are preferred. When Y is a methine group, only ^one of X ¹ and X ² is a hydrogen atom, and the other does not exist. Also, when X ⁴ forms an oxo group, X ³ does not exist.

R ² and R ³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group, and R ³ is particularly preferably a hydrogen atom.

A represents a number of 2 or 3, R represents R ⁴ and R ⁵ when a is 2, and R represents R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ when a is 3.

R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ are each independently a hydrogen atom or an amidino group, or may have a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group and an acetoxy group. 1 to 8 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups. Here, the hydroxyalkoxy group which can be substituted with a hydrocarbon group is preferably a linear or branched hydroxyalkoxy group having 1 to 7 carbon atoms. The alkoxy group is preferably a linear or branched alkoxy group having 1 to 7 carbon atoms. Examples of R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ include a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, 2-ethylhexyl and isopropyl; an alkenyl group such as vinyl and allyl; an amidino group; Methyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 1,1-dimethyl-2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl, 2-hydroxy-3-methoxypropyl, 2,3,4,5,6-penta Hydroxyhexyl, 1,1-bis (hydroxymethyl) ethyl, 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethyl, 2-methoxyethyl, 1-methyl-2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl, 3-methoxypropyl, 1 , 1-bis (hydroxymethyl) -2-hydroxyethyl, etc., hydroxyl groups, hydroxyalkoxy groups And a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms substituted by 1 to 6 selected from alkoxy groups.

In particular, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group such as a methyl group, 2-hydroxyethyl, 1,1-dimethyl-2-hydroxyethyl, 1,1-bis (hydroxymethyl) ethyl, 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethyl, and the like Alkyl groups optionally substituted by 1 to 3 groups selected from hydroxyalkoxy groups are preferred.

As the sphingosine represented by the general formula (1), a naturally occurring sphingosine represented by the following general formula (2) or a synthetic product having the same structure is preferable.

(Wherein R ⁷ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group; Y ₁ represents a methylene group or a methine group; X ⁵ , X ⁶ and X ⁷ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group, and X ⁸ represents a hydrogen atom or together with an adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group ( However, when Y ₁ is a methine group, _one of X ⁵ and X ⁶ represents a hydrogen atom and the other does not exist.When X ⁸ forms an oxo group, X ⁷ does not exist.); R ⁸ Represents a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; a R ^{1 s} are each independently a hydrogen atom or an amidino group, or have a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group and an acetoxy group The total number of carbons that may be 1 ~ Of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group; a represents a number of 2 or 3; indicates that the broken line may be an unsaturated bond)

R ⁷ is preferably a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms, particularly a linear saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 13 to 15 carbon atoms. Is preferred. a is preferably 2, and each R ¹ is independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Specific examples of the natural sphingosine represented by the general formula (2) include natural sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine, sphingadienin, dehydrosphingosine, dehydrophytosphingosine, and N-alkyl derivatives thereof (for example, N-methyl form) and the like.
These sphingosines may be either natural (D (+)) optically active or non-natural (L (−)) optically active, or a mixture of natural and non-natural types. May be used. The relative configuration of the above compound may be a natural configuration, a non-natural configuration other than that, or a mixture thereof.
In particular, PHYTOSPHINGOSINE (INCI name: 8th Edition) and the following formula are preferable.

These may be either natural extracts or synthetic products, and commercially available products can be used. Examples of commercially available natural sphingosine include D-Sphingosine (4-Sphingenine) (SIGMA-ALDRICH), DS-phytosphingosine (DOOSAN), and phytosphingosine (Cosmo Farm).

These sphingosine salts include acidic amino acid salts such as glutamic acid and aspartic acid; basic amino acid salts such as arginine; inorganic acid salts such as phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid; monocarboxylic acid salts such as acetic acid; dicarboxylic acids such as succinic acid Salts: Examples include oxycarboxylates such as citric acid, lactic acid, and malic acid, and one or more selected from these are preferable.

Among the compounds of component (A), examples of the ionic surfactant include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.
Examples of the anionic surfactant include fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium laurate, potassium palmitate and arginine stearate or salts thereof; alkyl sulfates having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium lauryl sulfate and potassium lauryl sulfate. Esters or salts thereof; alkyl ether sulfates having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate triethanolamine or salts thereof; N-carbon acyl sarcosine or salts thereof having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium lauroyl sarcosine; monostearyl Alkyl phosphoric acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium phosphate or a salt thereof; polyoxyethylene alkyl having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium polyoxyethylene oleyl ether phosphate or sodium polyoxyethylene stearyl ether phosphate -Teruric acid or a salt thereof; dialkylsulfosuccinic acid having 12 to 24 carbon atoms such as sodium di-2-ethylhexylsulfosuccinate or a salt thereof; N-alkyloyl having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine sodium Methyl taurine or a salt thereof, sodium dilauroyl glutamate, monosodium N-lauroyl glutamate, sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, arginine N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, sodium N-stearoyl glutamate, sodium N-myristoyl-L-glutamate N-C12-C22 acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof such as

Further, as the cationic surfactant, a quaternary ammonium salt is preferable, and examples thereof include alkyltrimethylammonium chloride dialkyldimethylammonium chloride such as stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, trialkylmethylammonium chloride, and alkylamine salt. Can be mentioned.

Furthermore, examples of the amphoteric surfactant include alkyldimethylamine oxide, alkylcarboxybetaine, alkylsulfobetaine, amide amino acid salt, and alkylamidopropylbetaine, with alkylamidopropylbetaine being particularly preferred.

As the component (A), a sphingosine salt and an anionic surfactant are preferable from the viewpoint of emulsion stability.
As the anionic surfactant, those other than fatty acids or salts thereof are preferable, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphoric acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms or salt thereof, sodium N-alkyloylmethyl taurate having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, One or more selected from N-carbon atoms having 12 to 22 acyl glutamates are preferable, and N-carbon atoms having 22 to 22 acyl glutamic acids or salts thereof are more preferable from the viewpoint of feeling in use. As the acyl glutamate having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, N-stearoyl-L-glutamate is preferable, and N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid arginine salt and N-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid potassium salt are more preferable.

Component (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more. For example, stearoyl glutamic acid, polyoxyethylene (4) sodium lauryl ether phosphate, and phytosphingosine can be used alone. Stearoyl glutamic acid and polyoxyethylene (4) sodium lauryl ether phosphate may be used in combination, or sodium dilauroyl glutamate and stearoyl glutamic acid may be used in combination.

Component (A) can be used alone or in combination of two or more. The content of the component (A) indicates the content of the compound excluding the counter ion, and each component described later can be stably dispersed, and from the point of obtaining a non-sticky feeling, 0.01% by mass or more in the total composition 0.05 mass% or more is preferable, 0.1 mass% or more is more preferable, 10 mass% or less is preferable, 5 mass% or less is preferable, and 3 mass% or less is more preferable. In addition, the content of the component (A) is 0.01 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 3 mass% is more preferable.

[Component (B)]
The component (B) used in the present invention is a di-linear fatty acid glycerin ester and a di-linear fatty acid sorbitan ester, a di-linear fatty acid glycerin ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and a di-linear fatty acid sorbitan having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. One or more compounds selected from esters are preferred. In addition, even if it is a compound classified into di linear fatty-acid glycerol ester with 2 or more types of compounds, for example, if a structure differs, it will be considered as 2 or more types.

Examples of the di-linear fatty acid glycerin ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms include glycerin dilaurate, glycerin dimyristic ester, glycerin dipalmitate, glyceryl distearate, glycerin dibehenate, glycerin dioleate, Examples include glycerin diisostearate.
Examples of the di-linear fatty acid sorbitan ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms include sorbitan dilaurate, sorbitan dimyristate, sorbitan dipalmitate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan dibehenate, and sorbitan dioleate.
Among these, glyceryl distearate and sorbitan distearate are preferable from the viewpoint of storage stability.

The component (B) used in the present invention forms a lamellar structure by combining the component (A) and the component (C) described later.
The content of the component (B) is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.1% by mass or more in the total composition from the viewpoint of stability and stickiness at the time of application. More preferably, 10 mass% or less is preferable, 8 mass% or less is more preferable, and 5 mass% or less is still more preferable. The content of component (B) is preferably 0.01 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 8% by mass, and still more preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass in the total composition.

[Component (C)]
Component (C) used in the present invention includes a compound represented by the general formula (3), an alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a mono fatty acid glycerin ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a monoalkyl glyceryl ether having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and One or more compounds selected from monofatty acid sorbitan esters having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

(Wherein R ¹¹ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms or a hydrogen atom, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group. Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom; X ¹¹ , X ¹² and X ¹³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group, and X ¹⁴ represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group; or shown, together with the adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group (provided that when Z is a methine group, either X ¹¹ and X ¹² is a hydrogen atom, is .X ¹⁴ to the other is not present X ¹³ is not present when forming an oxo group.); R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; R ¹⁴ is a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl A linear or branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated carbon atom having 5 to 60 carbon atoms, which may have an ether bond, ester bond or amide bond in the main chain, which may be substituted by a group or amino group Represents a hydrogen group; R ¹⁵ represents a hydrogen atom, or may have a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. A saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group of the chain (provided that when R ¹¹ is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R ¹⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms in total, and R ¹¹ is a hydrocarbon group; R ¹⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in total); the broken line portion may indicate an unsaturated bond)
In addition, with 2 or more types of compounds, even if it is a compound classified into General formula (3), if a structure differs, it will be considered as 2 or more types.

In the formula, R ¹¹ is a straight chain having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 22 carbon atoms optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group, A branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group or a hydrogen atom.
Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom.

X ¹¹ , X ¹² and X ¹³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group. In particular, it is preferable that 0 to 1 of X ¹¹ , X ¹² and X ¹³ is a hydroxyl group and the remainder is a hydrogen atom. When Z is a methine group, only one of X ¹¹ and X ¹² is a hydrogen atom, and the other does not exist. X ¹⁴ is preferably a hydrogen atom or a glyceryl group.
R ¹² and R ^{13 each} represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group, preferred R ¹² is a hydrogen atom or a hydroxymethyl group, and preferred R ¹³ is a hydrogen atom.

R ¹⁴ may be a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group, may be substituted, and the main chain may have an ether bond, an ester bond or an amide bond. A cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group is shown. Preferably, the hydroxyl group or amino group may be substituted a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 35 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group at the ω position of the hydrocarbon group In which a straight-chain, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted is an ester bond or an amide bond. The fatty acid to be bonded is preferably isostearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid or linoleic acid.

R ¹⁵ represents a hydrogen atom, or may have a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. It is a saturated hydrocarbon group. When R ¹¹ is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R ¹⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having a total carbon number of 10 to 30. When R ¹¹ is a hydrocarbon group, R ¹⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in total. In particular, a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in which 1 to 3 groups selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group and an alkoxy group may be substituted is preferable. Here, the hydroxyalkoxy group and the alkoxy group are preferably those having 1 to 7 carbon atoms.

The compound represented by the general formula (3) is preferably a ceramide represented by the following general formula (4) or (5).
(I) A naturally-occurring ceramide represented by the general formula (4) or a synthetic product having the same structure and a derivative thereof (hereinafter referred to as a natural ceramide).

(Wherein R ²¹ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group; Z ₁ represents a methylene group or a methine group; X ¹⁵ , X ¹⁶ and X ¹⁷ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group; X ¹⁸ represents a hydrogen atom or together with an adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group. (However, when Z ₁ is a methine group, _one of X ¹⁵ and X ¹⁶ is a hydrogen atom and the other does not exist. When X ¹⁸ forms an oxo group, X ¹⁷ does not exist.); R ²² represents a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; R ²³ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R ²⁴ has 5 to 30 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group Linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups Or a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group at the ω-terminus of the alkyl group; Indicates that it may be an unsaturated bond.)

Preferably, R ²¹ is a linear alkyl group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms, more preferably 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R ²⁴ is a linear alkyl group having 9 to 27 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, or linoleic acid Is a straight-chain alkyl group having 9 to 27 carbon atoms bonded with an ester. X ¹⁸ preferably represents a hydrogen atom or forms an oxo group together with an oxygen atom. In particular, R ²⁴ is preferably tricosyl, 1-hydroxypentadecyl, 1-hydroxytricosyl, heptadecyl, 1-hydroxyundecyl, or a nonacosyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω position.

Specific examples of natural ceramides include ceramide types 1 to 7 in which sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine or sphingadienin is amidated (for example, J. Lipid Res., 24: 759 (1983), FIG. And J. Lipid. Res., 35: 2069 (1994), porcine and human ceramides described in FIG.

Further, these N-alkyl compounds (for example, N-methyl compounds) are also included.
These ceramides may be either natural (D (−)) optically active or non-natural (L (+)) optically active, or a mixture of natural and non-natural. May be used. The relative configuration of the above compound may be a natural configuration, a non-natural configuration other than that, or a mixture thereof. In particular, compounds of CERAMIDE1, CERAMIDE2, CERAMIDE3, CERAMIDE5, CERAMIDE6II (above, INCI, 8th Edition) and those represented by the following formula are preferable.

These may be either natural extracts or synthetic products, and commercially available products can be used. Examples of such commercially available ceramides include Ceramide 、 I, Ceramide III, Ceramide IIIA, Ceramide IIIB, Ceramide IIIC, Ceramide VI (above, Cosmo Farm), Ceramide TIC-001 (Takasago Inc.), CERAMIDE 、 II (Quest International), DS-Ceramide VI, DS-CLA-Phytoceramide, C6-Phytoceramide, DS-ceramide Y3S (DOOSAN), CERAMIDE2 (Cedama).

(II) A pseudo-ceramide represented by the general formula (5).

(Wherein R ²⁵ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group or a hydrogen atom having 10 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group; X ¹⁹ represents a hydrogen atom; Acetyl group or glyceryl group; R ²⁶ is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group or an amino group; Or a hydrocarbon group having an ester bond with a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, at the ω-terminal; R ²⁷ represents a hydrogen atom Or a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group or an acetoxy group which may be substituted is an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms in total.

R ²⁶ includes nonyl, tridecyl, pentadecyl, an undecyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω-position, a pentadecyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω-position, a pentadecyl group in which 12-hydroxystearic acid is ester-bonded to the ω-position, An undecyl group in which methyl branched isostearic acid is amide-bonded at the ω position is preferred.

When R ²⁵ is a hydrogen atom, R ²⁷ is an alkyl group having a total carbon number of 10 to 30, preferably a total carbon number of 12 to 20, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group or an acetoxy group. Yes; when R ²⁵ is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, R ²⁷ represents a hydrogen atom, It is preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group or an acetoxy group. As the hydroxyalkoxy group or alkoxy group for R ²⁷ , those having 1 to 7 carbon atoms are preferred.

In general formula (5), R ²⁵ is a hexadecyl group, X ¹⁹ is a hydrogen atom, R ²⁶ is a pentadecyl group, R ²⁷ is a hydroxyethyl group; R ²⁵ is a hexadecyl group, X ¹⁹ is a hydrogen atom, and R ²⁶ is Pseudo-type ceramide having a nonyl group and R ²⁷ of hydroxyethyl group is preferred, and R ^{25 in the} general formula (5) is a hexadecyl group, X ¹⁹ is a hydrogen atom, R ²⁶ is a pentadecyl group, and R ²⁷ is a hydroxyethyl group ( N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide) is more preferred.

Component (C) As the compound represented by the general formula (3), one or more selected from natural ceramide and pseudo-ceramide can be used.

Examples of the alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms of component (C) include myristyl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and the like. Among these, those having a linear alkyl group are preferred, particularly preferably an alcohol having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and cetanol and stearyl alcohol are preferred.

Examples of the component (C) C12-22 monofatty acid glycerin ester include glycerin monolaurate, glycerin monomyristic ester, glycerin monopalmitate, glycerin monostearate, glycerin monobehenate, glycerin. Examples include monooleate and glycerin monoisostearate. Of these, glycerol monobehenate, glycerol monostearate, and glycerol monopalmitate are preferable, and glycerol monobehenate is particularly preferable.

Examples of the monoalkyl glyceryl ether having 12 to 22 carbon atoms of the component (C) include monodecyl glyceryl ether, monolauryl glyceryl ether, monomyristyl glyceryl ether, monocetyl glyceryl ether, monostearyl glyceryl ether, monobehenyl glyceryl ether and the like. Is mentioned.

Examples of the component (C) monofatty acid sorbitan ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms include sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monomyristate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan monobehenate and the like.

Among these, as the component (C), from the viewpoint of long-term storage stability, the alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, the mono fatty acid glycerin ester having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, the monoalkyl glyceryl ether having 14 to 22 carbon atoms, carbon Mono-fatty acid sorbitan esters of several 14 to 22 are preferred. More preferred are alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mono fatty acid glycerin esters having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

The component (C) used in the present invention forms a lamellar structure by combining the component (A) and the component (B).
The content of the component (C) is preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.5% by mass in the total composition from the viewpoint of stability and less stickiness during coating. % Or more is more preferable, 15 mass% or less is preferable, 13 mass% or less is more preferable, and 10 mass% or less is further more preferable. The content of component (C) is preferably 0.05 to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 13% by mass, and still more preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass in the total composition.

In the present invention, the components (A), (B), (C)
(1) The mass ratio of (A) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.04 to 1,
(2) The molar fraction of (B) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.01 to 0.45,
(3) It is important that the maximum molar fraction occupied by one single compound component in (B) + (C) constituents satisfies the relationship of 0.2 to 0.8.

(1) The mass ratio of (A) / ((B) + (C)) indicates a preferable range in which the component (A) can stably emulsify the components (B) and (C). Moreover, it has the function of keeping the alignment of the molecules formed by the components (B) and (C) by electrostatic repulsion. Furthermore, when the cosmetic of the present invention is applied to the skin, it is preferable in that it forms a film having an α-type structure and retains the water of component (E), and maintains the flexibility of the film. From the above viewpoint, the mass ratio of (A) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.04 or more, preferably 0.06 or more, more preferably 0.09 or more, and 1 or less. .5 or less is preferable, and 0.3 or less is more preferable. The mass ratio of (A) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.04 to 1, preferably 0.06 to 0.5, and more preferably 0.09 to 0.3.

(2) The molar fraction of (B) / ((B) + (C)) is preferable in that the arrangement of molecules formed by the components (B) and (C) forms a layered structure. From the above viewpoint, the molar fraction of (B) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.01 or more, preferably 0.03 or more, more preferably 0.04 or more, and 0.45 or less. Yes, 0.4 or less is preferable, and 0.35 or less is more preferable. The molar fraction of (B) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.01 to 0.45, preferably 0.03 to 0.4, more preferably 0.04 to 0.35. preferable.

(3) (B) + (C) The maximum molar fraction occupied by one compound in the constituent components is that the arrangement of molecules formed by components (B) and (C) forms a layered structure, and the layered structure is stabilized. It is considered necessary. More specifically, it is considered that when the layered structure is formed, the crystallization of the components is suppressed, the α gel structure which is a hydrated solid is maintained, and the flexibility of the film formed on the skin is maintained. In addition, storage stability is improved. From the above viewpoint, the maximum mole fraction occupied by one compound in the (B) + (C) constituent component is 0.2 or more, preferably 0.3 or more, 0.8 or less, and 0.78 or less. Is preferred. Further, the maximum mole fraction occupied by one compound in the (B) + (C) constituent components is 0.2 to 0.8, preferably 0.3 to 0.78.
From the same viewpoint, each component of components (B) and (C) is preferably one kind or a mixture of two or more kinds, and the compound species constituting components (B) and (C) The total of is preferably 3 or more.

Further, in the contents of the components (B) and (C), the total content of the components (B) and (C) is preferably 0.1% by mass or more from the viewpoint of the moisturizing effect and the storage stability. 0.5 mass% or more is more preferable, 17 mass% or less is preferable, and 10 mass% or less is more preferable. The total content of components (B) and (C) is preferably 0.1 to 17% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass.

[Component (D)]
The powder of component (D) used in the present invention has an average particle size of 0.1 to 30 μm, preferably 1 to 20 μm, from the viewpoint that the non-stickiness lasts.
Here, the average particle size is calculated from the volume-based particle size distribution measured by the laser diffraction / scattering method using a laser diffraction / scattering particle size distribution analyzer (for example, LA-920 manufactured by Horiba, Ltd.). Mean median diameter.

The powder of component (D) is not limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics, and any of inorganic powder, organic powder, etc. can be suitably used, and its shape is either spherical or plate-like. But it ’s okay. There is no restriction | limiting also in the internal structure of powder, Any things, such as porous, hollow, and nonporous, can be used. These powders do not dissolve in water, alcohol, oil, etc. at 15 to 100 ° C.
Examples of the inorganic powder include silica (anhydrous silicic acid), calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, mica, talc, kaolin, sericite, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and silicic acid. Examples thereof include magnesium, barium sulfate, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, carbon black, manganese violet, glass beads, zeolite, pearl pigment (eg, Bengala-coated mica, titanium oxide-coated mica), and composites thereof.
Examples of the organic powder include thermoplastic resins such as styrene resin, acrylic resin, polyolefin, silicone resin, fluorine resin, polyester, and polyamide, epoxy resin, phenol resin, and urethane resin, and silk, wool, cellulose, and starch. Etc.

As the powder of component (D), a modified powder whose surface is treated with a compound or the like may be used, but a powder that has not been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment using a silicone oil, a fatty acid metal salt, or the like is uniformly α This is preferable from the viewpoint of dispersion in the gel film.
In addition, the shape of the powder is more preferably a spherical shape from the viewpoint that it is difficult to be buried in the α-gel coating and expresses a smooth feel. Specifically, the spherical shape is preferably a spherical powder having a sphericity of 70% or more. The sphericity is taken by taking an electron micrograph of solid particles with a scanning electron microscope and randomly selecting 100 particles that do not overlap each other. In the selected particle, a projected image is written, and the projected image is a perfect circle, or a circumscribed circle is drawn on the projected image of the particle, and a concentric circle having a radius of 90% of the radius of the circumscribed circle. And having a shape that includes the entire contour of the projected image of the particle between the circumscribed circle is defined as a true sphere. The number of spheres is taken as the sphericity of the particle.

Spherical powder includes inorganic powder such as silica, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate; organic powder such as crystalline cellulose, nylon powder, poly (meth) acrylate (methyl ester, ethyl ester); siloxane bond is three-dimensional And a polymethylsilsesquioxane powder having an intermediate structure between an inorganic and an organic structure in which a methyl group is bonded to one silicon atom.
Among these spherical powders, the powder of the component (D) is preferably a porous powder because it can contact the α gel film in a larger area. Porous powder has the advantage of being difficult to remove from the coating against friction. Here, the porous powder refers to a powder having a large number of pores on the powder surface. Furthermore, a powder having a pore volume of 0.5 mL / g or more is preferable. Specifically, porous silica having a hydrophilic surface is desirable. These commercial products include Sunsphere H31, Sunsphere H-32, Sunsphere H-51, Sunsphere H-52, Sunsphere H-121, Sunsphere H-122, Sunsphere L-31, Sunsphere L -51, Sunsphere L-121 (above AGC S-Tech).

The powder of component (D) can use 1 type (s) or 2 or more types, and content is 0.01 mass% or more in the whole composition from the point of the non-stickiness after application | coating, 0. 15 mass% or more is preferable and 0.3 mass% or more is more preferable. And from the point of difficulty of taking out with respect to friction, it is 30 mass% or less in the whole composition, 15 mass% or less is preferable, and 10 mass% or less is more preferable. Further, the content of the component (D) is 0.01 to 30% by mass, preferably 0.15 to 15% by mass, and more preferably 0.3 to 10% by mass in the total composition.

In addition, in the components (A), (B), (C) and (D), the mass ratio of (D) / ((A) + (B) + (C)) is a point of smooth feeling and its sustainability. Therefore, 0.01 or more is preferable, 0.1 or more is more preferable, and 0.12 or more is still more preferable. And 10 or less is preferable from the point of the uniform adhesion to an alpha gel coat, and its persistence, 5 or less are more preferred, and 4 or less are still more preferred. In the components (A), (B), (C) and (D), the mass ratio of (D) / ((A) + (B) + (C)) is preferably 0.01 to 10, 1 to 5 is more preferable, and 0.12 to 4 is still more preferable.

In the present invention, the water of component (E) is used as a solvent in the emulsified cosmetic and becomes the remainder of the above components and other components constituting the emulsified cosmetic. The content is preferably 50% by mass or more, more preferably 60% by mass or more, preferably 98% by mass or less, and more preferably 95% by mass or less in the entire composition. Component (E) has the function of imparting flexibility to the film composed of components (A) to (C) and (E) after applying and drying the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, and forms a film that follows the skin. Is possible. Further, the component (D) has an effect of making it difficult to fall off the film.

The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can uniformly apply the powder of component (D) to the skin. This is a performance different from conventional emulsified cosmetics. For example, in a system in which powder is dispersed in an oil-in-water emulsion, when the emulsion is applied to the skin, water that is in a continuous phase with the oil droplets adheres to the skin surface, and when the water dries, the oil droplets form islands. And remains on the skin. The powder will adhere to the oil droplets and remain on the skin. Then, since oil droplets will remain unevenly on the skin, the powder will also remain unevenly on the skin. On the other hand, in the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, the emulsified cosmetic itself is a liquid having a lamellar structure, and uniform components remain on the skin surface after application and drying. Therefore, it was found that the powder can adhere to the skin everywhere and the powder can be uniformly applied.

The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can further contain (F) a polyhydric alcohol, and can improve the flexibility of the film formed on the skin surface when applied to the skin.
Examples of the polyhydric alcohol include glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol.
Component (F) can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is preferably 1% by mass or more in the total composition from the viewpoint of the flexibility of the film formed on the skin surface and the feeling of use. It is more preferably at least mass%, preferably at most 30 mass%, more preferably at most 20 mass%. Further, the content of the component (F) is preferably 1 to 30% by mass, more preferably 3 to 20% by mass in the total composition.

The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can further contain an oily component.
Such oily components are not limited as long as they are used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane and petrolatum; cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, ethylene glycol dioctyl ether, glycerol monooleyl ether, etc. Ether oils; ester oils such as octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, di-2-ethylhexyl adipate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, trioctanoin, olive oil, etc .; dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic dimethylpoly Siloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, amino-modified silicone, carboxy-modified silicone, alcohol-modified silicone, alkyl-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, fluorine-modified Silicone oils such as recone; perfluoroalkylethyl phosphoric acid, perfluoroalkyl polyoxyethylene phosphoric acid, a perfluoropolyether, such as fluorine-based oils such as polytetrafluoroethylene.
These oily components can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and the content is preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more in the total composition from the viewpoint of storage stability. 20 mass% or less is preferable and 15 mass% or less is more preferable. Further, the content of the oil component is preferably 0.5 to 20% by mass, more preferably 1 to 15% by mass in the total composition.

The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is an active ingredient or additive used in normal cosmetics, for example, water-soluble vitamins such as ascorbic acid, nicotinic acid amide, and nicotinic acid; buckwheat extract, licorice extract, aloe extract, Animal and plant extracts such as horse chestnut extract, tea extract, cucumber extract, clove extract, carrot extract, cranberry extract, placenta extract, seaweed extract, maronier extract, yuzu extract, asunaro extract, royal jelly extract, eucalyptus extract, asunaro extract; Carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium alginate, carrageenan, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, guar gum, xanthan gum, carboxymethylchitosan, sodium hyaluronate, oxazoline-modified silicone, N, N- It can also contain such thickeners methylaminoethyl methacrylate diethyl sulfate-N, N-dimethylacrylamide-dimethacrylate polyethylene glycol copolymers.

The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by the following method.
(Manufacturing method 1)
Step 1: Mix the unneutralized product of component (A), components (B), (C), and other oil components, warm to the melting point of the highest melting component, stir and homogenize the mixture ( Step of obtaining 1).
Step 2: A step of mixing the components (D), (E), the neutralizing agent of the component (A) and other water-soluble components, and heating them to substantially the same temperature as the mixture (1) to obtain a mixture (2).
Step 3: A step of mixing the mixture (1) and the mixture (2) to make it uniform, and then cooling to 15 to 35 ° C.

(Manufacturing method 2)
Step 1: A step of mixing components (B), (C) and other oily components, heating to a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the component having the highest melting point, and stirring to obtain a mixture (3).
Step 2: Mix the unneutralized product of component (A), components (D) and (E), the neutralizing agent of component (A) and other water-soluble components, and warm to approximately the same temperature as mixture (3). And obtaining a mixture (4).
Step 3: A step of mixing the mixture (3) and the mixture (4) to make them uniform and then cooling to 15 to 35 ° C.

(Manufacturing method 3)
Step 1: Mix the unneutralized product of component (A), component (B), component (C), and other oily components, warm above the melting point of the component with the highest melting point, and stir and mix uniformly. A step of obtaining (1).
Step 2: A step of mixing a part of the component (E), the neutralizing agent of the component (A) and other water-soluble components, and heating the mixture to approximately the same temperature as the mixture (1) to obtain a mixture (5).
Step 3: Mix the mixture (1) and the mixture (5), homogenize, cool to 15 to 35 ° C., mix the remaining component (E), component (D) and other water-soluble components, The process of making it uniform.

(Manufacturing method 4)
Step 1: A step of mixing components (B), (C) and other oily components, heating to a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point of the component having the highest melting point, and stirring to obtain a mixture (3).
Step 2: Mix the unneutralized product of component (A), a part of component (E), the neutralizing agent of component (A) and other water-soluble components, and warm to approximately the same temperature as mixture (3). And obtaining the mixture (6).
Step 3: Mix the mixture (3) and the mixture (6), homogenize, cool to 15 to 35 ° C., mix the remaining components (E), (D) and other water-soluble components, The process of making it uniform.

Among these, as the production method of the present invention, production methods 3 and 4 first make a lamellar cosmetic, and then mix component (D), so that component (D) adheres to the skin. It is preferable at the point which property increases. Furthermore, the manufacturing method 3 is more preferable from the viewpoints of high moisture retention, high film flexibility, and high powder retention.

The structure of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is α-gel (α-type crystal), and the precipitation of crystals (γ-type crystal) is suppressed. The α-gel can be confirmed by structural analysis by X-ray.
Moreover, the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is suitable as a skin cosmetic such as a lotion, milky lotion, cream, and cosmetic liquid.

The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to the skin to form a film having an α-gel structure on the skin surface and used for moisturizing the skin.
Moreover, the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be used for skin care that is applied to the skin and stretched.
Furthermore, the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention relates to a method of applying moisture to the skin and drying to form a film having an α-gel structure on the skin surface and moisturizing the skin.
The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention relates to use for producing a skin moisturizer.
Regarding the above-described embodiments, the present invention further discloses the following compositions, uses and production methods.

<1> The following components (A), (B), (C), (D) and (E):
(A) 0.01 to 10% by mass of one or more compounds selected from sphingosine salts and ionic surfactants,
(B) 1 type, or 2 or more types of compounds chosen from di linear fatty acid glycerin ester and di linear fatty acid sorbitan ester,
(C) a compound represented by the general formula (3), an alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a monofatty acid glycerin ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a monoalkyl glyceryl ether having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a monocarbon having 12 to 22 carbon atoms One or more compounds selected from fatty acid sorbitan esters,

(Wherein R ¹¹ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms or a hydrogen atom, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group. Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom; X ¹¹ , X ¹² and X ¹³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group, and X ¹⁴ represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group; or shown, together with the adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group (provided that when Z is a methine group, either X ¹¹ and X ¹² is a hydrogen atom, is .X ¹⁴ to the other is not present X ¹³ is not present when forming an oxo group.); R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; R ¹⁴ is a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl A linear or branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated carbon atom having 5 to 60 carbon atoms, which may have an ether bond, ester bond or amide bond in the main chain, which may be substituted by a group or amino group Represents a hydrogen group; R ¹⁵ represents a hydrogen atom, or may have a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. A saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group of the chain (provided that when R ¹¹ is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R ¹⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms in total, and R ¹¹ is a hydrocarbon group; When R ¹⁵ is a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in total; the broken line portion may indicate an unsaturated bond)
(D) 0.01-30% by mass of powder having an average particle size of 0.1-30 μm,
(E) water,
In components (A), (B) and (C),
(1) The mass ratio of (A) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.04 to 1,
(2) The molar fraction of (B) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.01 to 0.45,
(3) The maximum molar fraction of one compound single component in (B) + (C) constituents is 0.2 to 0.8.
Is an emulsified cosmetic.

<2> The emulsified cosmetic according to <1>, wherein the component (A) is preferably an ionic surfactant.
<3> The ionic surfactant of component (A) is preferably polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphoric acid having 12 to 22 carbon atoms or a salt thereof, N-alkyloylmethyl taurine having 12 to 22 carbon atoms or a salt thereof. N-C12-C22 acylglutamic acid or a salt thereof selected from one or more compounds, the content excluding counterions being preferably 0.01% by mass in the total composition Or more, 0.05 mass% or more is more preferable, 0.1 mass% or more is further preferable, preferably 10 mass% or less, more preferably 5 mass% or less, still more preferably 3 mass% or less, The emulsified cosmetic according to <1> or <2>, preferably 0.01 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 5% by mass, and still more preferably 0.1 to 3% by mass.
<4> The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <3>, wherein the component (A) is preferably an acyl glutamate.

<5> Component (A) is preferably one or more compounds selected from sphingosine salts, and the content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more in the total composition, 0 0.05% by mass or more is more preferable, 0.1% by mass or more is further preferable, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, still more preferably 3% by mass or less, and preferably 0.0% by mass. The emulsified cosmetic according to <1>, which is from 01 to 10% by mass, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by mass, and still more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by mass.

<6> Component (B) is preferably one or more compounds selected from di-linear fatty acid glycerin esters, and the content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more in the entire composition. 0.05 mass% or more is more preferable, 0.1 mass% or more is more preferable, preferably 10 mass% or less, more preferably 8 mass% or less, still more preferably 5 mass% or less, The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <5>, preferably 0.01 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 8% by mass, and still more preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass. .
<7> The emulsified cosmetic according to <6>, wherein the di-linear fatty acid glycerin ester of component (B) is preferably glyceryl distearate.

<8> Component (B) is preferably one or more compounds selected from di-linear fatty acid sorbitan esters, and the content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more in the total composition. 0.05 mass% or more is more preferable, 0.1 mass% or more is more preferable, preferably 10 mass% or less, more preferably 8 mass% or less, still more preferably 5 mass% or less, The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <5>, preferably 0.01 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 8% by mass, and still more preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass. .
<9> The emulsified cosmetic according to <8>, wherein the di-linear fatty acid sorbitan ester of component (B) is preferably sorbitan distearate.

<10> Component (C) is preferably one or more compounds selected from alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the content is preferably 0.05 to 15 in the entire composition. The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <9>, wherein the emulsified cosmetic composition is preferably 0.1 to 13% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass.
<11> The emulsified cosmetic according to <10>, wherein the alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms of the component (C) is preferably cetanol or stearyl alcohol.

<12> Component (C) is preferably one or two or more compounds selected from mono-fatty acid glycerin esters having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the content is preferably 0. The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <9>, which is from 05 to 15% by mass, more preferably from 0.1 to 13% by mass, and still more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by mass.
<13> The monofatty acid glycerin ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms of the component (C) is preferably one or more selected from monoglycerin monostearate and monoglycerin monobehenate <12> emulsified cosmetics.

<14> Component (C) is preferably one or two or more compounds selected from alkyl glyceryl ethers having 16 to 22 mono carbon atoms, and the content thereof is preferably 0.8. The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <9>, which is from 05 to 15% by mass, more preferably from 0.1 to 13% by mass, and still more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by mass.
<15> The emulsified cosmetic according to <14>, wherein the alkyl glyceryl ether having 16 to 22 mono carbon atoms of component (C) is preferably monostearyl glyceryl ether.

<16> Component (C) is preferably one or more compounds selected from fatty acid sorbitan esters having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the content is 0.05% by mass in the total composition The above is preferable, 0.1% by mass or more is more preferable, 0.5% by mass or more is further preferable, 15% by mass or less is preferable, 13% by mass or less is more preferable, 10% by mass or less is further preferable, and preferably The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <9>, wherein 0.05 to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 13% by mass, and still more preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass.
<17> The emulsified cosmetic according to <16>, wherein the fatty acid sorbitan ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms of the component (C) is preferably sorbitan monostearate.

The mass ratio of <18> (A) / ((B) + (C)) is preferably 0.06 or more, more preferably 0.09 or more, preferably 0.5 or less, and 0.3 or less. Further, the mass ratio of (A) / ((B) + (C)) is preferably 0.06 to 0.5, more preferably 0.09 to 0.3. The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of> to <17>.
The molar fraction of <19> (B) / ((B) + (C)) is preferably 0.03 or more, more preferably 0.04 or more, preferably 0.4 or less, 0.35 More preferably, the molar fraction of (B) / ((B) + (C)) is preferably 0.03 to 0.4, more preferably 0.04 to 0.35. <1>-<18> The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <18>.

<20> The maximum molar fraction occupied by one compound in the (B) + (C) component is preferably 0.3 or more, preferably 0.78 or less, and (B) + (C). The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <19>, wherein the maximum mole fraction occupied by one compound in the constituent components is preferably 0.3 to 0.78.
<21> The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <20>, wherein the compounds constituting the component (B) and the component (C) are preferably 3 or more.
<22> In the components (A), (B), (C) and (D), the mass ratio of (D) / ((A) + (B) + (C)) is preferably 0.01 to 10 The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <21>, wherein 0.1 to 5 is more preferable, and 0.12 to 4 is still more preferable.

<22> The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <21>, wherein the component (D) is a powder that has not been hydrophobized.
<23> The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <22>, wherein the component (D) is a spherical powder.
<24> The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <23>, wherein the component (D) is porous silica.
<25> Use for skin care in which the emulsified cosmetic according to any one of the above items <1> to <24> is applied to a skin and stretched.
<26> Use for emulsifying the skin by applying the emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <24> to the skin.
<27> Use of the emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <24> above for producing a skin moisturizing agent.
<28> A method of moisturizing the skin by applying the emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <24> above to the skin and drying it.

<29> The method for producing an emulsified cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <24>, which is produced by the following steps.
Step 1: The unneutralized product of component (A), component (B), component (C) and other oily components are mixed, heated to the melting point of the highest melting component, stirred and mixed (1 )
Step 2: A part of component (E), a neutralizing agent of component (A) and other water-soluble components are mixed and heated to substantially the same temperature as mixture (1) to obtain mixture (5),
Step 3: Mix the mixture (1) and the mixture (5) to make it uniform, then cool to 15 to 35 ° C., and mix the remaining components (E), (D) and other water-soluble components , Making it uniform.

Production Example 1 (Production of (Lauryl Methacrylate / Na Methacrylate) Cross Polymer)
A beaker was charged with 82 g of lauryl methacrylate, 3 g of methacrylic acid, 15 g of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and 2 g of lauroyl peroxide, and dissolved by mixing and stirring. To this, 400 g of ion-exchanged water in which 0.75 g of sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine (SMT) was dissolved was added and dispersed with a homomixer until the particle size became 2.2 μm. This dispersion was poured into a four-necked flask and purged with nitrogen for 30 minutes while stirring. The temperature inside the flask was heated to 80 ° C. with an oil bath, polymerization was performed for 5 hours after reaching 80 ° C., and 3.9 g of 1N NaOH was added dropwise to neutralize. The dispersion liquid of the polymerized particles was freeze-dried, and the resin powder was obtained by collecting the particles.

Examples 1 to 25, Comparative Examples 1 to 8
Manufactures emulsified cosmetics having the compositions shown in Tables 1 to 4; structural analysis of dry film by X-ray, uniform adhesion of powder, difficulty of powder removal against friction, persistence of stickiness and dryness The duration of moisturizing feeling was evaluated. The results are also shown in Tables 1 to 4.

(Production method)
(1) Examples 1 to 5, 7, 9 to 21, Comparative Examples 1 to 8:
Ingredients (A), (B) and (C) were heated to 85 ° C., dissolved and stirred to homogenize. Next, the component (E) excluding 5% by mass of the component (E) and the neutralizing agent (arginine or glutamic acid) of the component (A) were mixed and heated to 80 to 90 ° C. This mixture and the mixture of components (A), (B) and (C) were mixed and stirred to make uniform. Then, it cooled to 25 degreeC and the mixture of 5 mass% component (E) and component (D) was further mixed, and it was made uniform, and the emulsified cosmetics were obtained.

(2) Examples 6 and 8:
Ingredients (B) and (C) were heated to 85 ° C., dissolved and stirred to homogenize. Next, the component (E) excluding 5% by mass of the component (E) and the neutralized product of the component (A) were mixed and heated to 80 to 90 ° C. This mixture and the mixture of components (B) and (C) were mixed and stirred to make uniform. Then, it cooled to 25 degreeC and the mixture of 5 mass% component (E) and component (D) was further mixed, and it was made uniform, and the emulsified cosmetics were obtained.

(3) Examples 22 to 25:
Ingredients (A), (B) and (C) were heated to 85 ° C., dissolved and stirred to homogenize. Next, the neutralizing agent (arginine) of component (E) and component (A) was mixed and heated to 80 to 90 ° C. This mixture and the mixture of components (A), (B) and (C) were mixed and stirred to make uniform. Then, it cooled to 25 degreeC, the mixture of ethanol, a component (D), and another water-soluble component was further mixed, and it was made uniform, and the emulsified cosmetics were obtained.

(1) Structural analysis of dry film by X-ray:
Each cosmetic was applied to a surface of black artificial leather (Celanu Back Black, manufactured by Okamoto Chemicals Co., Ltd.) using an applicator (manufactured by YOSHIMITSU) at a thickness of 0.1 mm and dried at room temperature for one day. The dried film was collected and the structure was confirmed by X-ray structure diffraction. The results are shown as follows.
α type: A film is formed and the structure is α type.
Including non-α type: A film is formed and the structure includes non-α type.
-: No film is formed.

(2) Uniform powder adhesion:
Each cosmetic was applied to the surface of black artificial leather (Seranubak Black 5 cm × 15 cm, manufactured by Okamoto Chemicals Co., Ltd.) using an applicator (manufactured by YOSHIMITSU) at a thickness of 0.1 mm. By five expert panelists, the appearance uniformity was visually evaluated according to the following criteria, and an average value was obtained.
5: The powder adheres very uniformly.
4; The powder adhered uniformly.
3; The powder adhered almost uniformly.
2: The powder is not very uniform.
1: The powder is not uniform.

(3) The difficulty of powder collection against friction:
Each cosmetic was applied to a thickness of 0.1 mm on the surface of black artificial leather (Celanu back black 5 cm × 15 cm, manufactured by Okamoto Chemicals Co., Ltd.) using an applicator (manufactured by YOSHIMITSU) and dried for one day. After that, using a surface property measuring machine (HEIDON, manufactured by SOHGOH KEISO), it was reciprocated 5 times with a 5 cm stroke (5 cm / s) under a load of 50 g / cm ² . The degree of appearance change was visually observed by a specialized panelist, and the difficulty of removing the powder was evaluated according to the following criteria.
5: Almost no powder remains and no change in appearance is observed.
4; Almost all the powder remained, but the appearance changed slightly.
3; Powder decreased slightly and the appearance changed.
2; Powder decreased and appearance changed.
1; Powder decreased considerably and the appearance changed greatly.

(4) Persistence of stickiness and smoothness:
Five professional panelists used 0.5 g of each cosmetic on the entire face. The non-stickiness and smoothness when the face was touched with a hand after 5 hours were evaluated according to the following criteria, and the average value was determined.
5; I feel very sticky and smooth.
4; Feels sticky and smooth.
3; I feel a little stickiness and smoothness.
2; hardly feel sticky and smooth.
1; Does not feel sticky and smooth.

(5) Sustained moisturizing feeling:
Five professional panelists used 0.5 g of each cosmetic on the entire face, evaluated the moisturizing feeling after 5 hours according to the following criteria, and determined the average value.
5; I feel very moisturizing.
4; I feel a moisturizing feeling.
3; I feel a little moisturizing feeling.
2; almost no moisturizing feeling.
1; Does not feel moisturizing.

Examples 26 to 27 (lotion)
In the same manner as in Example 22, a lotion having the composition shown in Table 5 was produced, and the structure analysis of the dried film by X-rays, the uniform adhesion of the powder, the difficulty of powder collection against friction, and the absence of stickiness The duration of the smooth feeling and the moisturizing feeling were evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 5.

Example 28 (milky lotion)
In the same manner as in Example 22, an emulsion having the composition shown in Table 6 was produced, and the structure analysis of the dried film by X-rays, the uniform adhesion of the powder, the difficulty of powder collection against friction, the non-stickiness and smoothness Sustained feeling and moisturizing feeling were evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 6.

Examples 29-31 (cream)
A cream having the composition shown in Table 7 was produced in the same manner as in Example 22, and the structure analysis of the dried film by X-rays, the uniform adhesion of the powder, the difficulty of powder collection against friction, the non-stickiness and smoothness Sustained feeling and moisturizing feeling were evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 7.

Claims

The following components (A), (B), (C), (D) and (E):
(A) 0.01 to 10% by mass of one or more compounds selected from sphingosine salts and ionic surfactants,
(B) 1 type, or 2 or more types of compounds chosen from di linear fatty acid glycerin ester and di linear fatty acid sorbitan ester,
(C) a compound represented by the general formula (3), an alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a monofatty acid glycerin ester having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, a monoalkyl glyceryl ether having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a monocarbon having 12 to 22 carbon atoms One or more compounds selected from fatty acid sorbitan esters,

(Wherein R 11 represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms or a hydrogen atom, which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group. Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom; X 11 , X 12 and X 13 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group, and X 14 represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group; or shown, together with the adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group (provided that when Z is a methine group, either X 11 and X 12 is a hydrogen atom, is .X 14 to the other is not present X 13 is not present when forming an oxo group.); R 12 and R 13 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; R 14 is a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl A linear or branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated carbon atom having 5 to 60 carbon atoms, which may have an ether bond, ester bond or amide bond in the main chain, which may be substituted by a group or amino group Represents a hydrogen group; R 15 represents a hydrogen atom, or may have a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. A saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group of the chain (provided that when R 11 is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R 15 is a hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms in total, and R 11 is a hydrocarbon group; When R 15 is a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in total; the broken line portion may indicate an unsaturated bond)
(D) 0.01-30% by mass of powder having an average particle size of 0.1-30 μm,
(E) water,
In components (A), (B) and (C),
(1) The mass ratio of (A) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.04 to 1,
(2) The molar fraction of (B) / ((B) + (C)) is 0.01 to 0.45,
(3) The maximum molar fraction of one compound single component in (B) + (C) constituents is 0.2 to 0.8.
Is an emulsified cosmetic.
The component (A), (B), (C) and (D) has a mass ratio of (D) / ((A) + (B) + (C)) of 0.01 to 10. The emulsified cosmetic described.
3. The emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein there are three or more compounds constituting component (B) and component (C).
The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the component (A) is an acyl glutamate.
The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the component (D) is a powder that has not been hydrophobized.
The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the component (D) is a spherical powder.
The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the component (D) is porous silica.
Use for emulsifying the skin by applying the emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7 to the skin.
The method for producing an emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising the following steps.
Step 1: The unneutralized product of component (A), component (B), component (C) and other oily components are mixed, heated to the melting point of the highest melting component, stirred and mixed (1 )
Step 2: A part of component (E), a neutralizing agent of component (A) and other water-soluble components are mixed and heated to substantially the same temperature as mixture (1) to obtain mixture (5),
Step 3: Mix the mixture (1) and the mixture (5), homogenize, cool to 15 to 35 ° C., mix the remaining component (E), component (D) and other water-soluble components, The process of making it uniform.