WO2013117548A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant des particules d'aérogel de silice et un sucre ou un dérivé de sucre - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant des particules d'aérogel de silice et un sucre ou un dérivé de sucre Download PDF

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WO2013117548A1
WO2013117548A1 PCT/EP2013/052246 EP2013052246W WO2013117548A1 WO 2013117548 A1 WO2013117548 A1 WO 2013117548A1 EP 2013052246 W EP2013052246 W EP 2013052246W WO 2013117548 A1 WO2013117548 A1 WO 2013117548A1
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μηη
composition
esters
chosen
mixtures
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PCT/EP2013/052246
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English (en)
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Raluca Lorant
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • A61K8/988—Honey; Royal jelly, Propolis
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising silica aerogel particles and a sugar or a sugar derivative
  • the present patent application relates to a composition for topical application comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and at least one compound chosen from sugars and their derivatives, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for, making up or treating keratinous substances.
  • sugar derivatives are known as ingredients which are particularly respectful of the skin. This is because, often used as moisturizing active agents or as emulsifiers, they are very mild for the skin, both in terms of feel and of tolerance.
  • the soaping effect on application is very noticeable when the sugar derivative is a sucrose ester or a glucose ether (such as an alkyl polyglucoside), which are very often used as emulsifiers. Furthermore, this effect is all the stronger when the composition does not comprise a silicone fatty substance.
  • Document WO2012/085856 relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition
  • a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a C 2 -C 3 2 polyol, at least 1 % by weight of hollow particles relative to the total weight of the said composition, an oil, and a surfactant chosen from surfactants with an HLB of less than 12, emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Document WO2012/084781 relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising a mixture of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , a first hydrocarbon-based oil and a second hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from branched esters, pentaerythritol esters, hydrogenated polyolefins and fatty acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, the first hydrocarbon-based oil being present in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight of the mixture of the first and second oils.
  • SM surface area per unit of mass
  • compositions comprising the combination of a silica aerogel with sugars and/or sugar derivatives make it possible to overcome the disadvantages related to the use of sugars and sugar derivatives and to obtain products not exhibiting a sticky or whitening effect during application or at the end.
  • a subject matter of the present invention is a composition for topical application comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and at least one compound chosen from sugars and their derivatives.
  • the invention relates to a composition for topical application comprising:
  • - hydrophobic silica aerogel particles exhibiting a specific surface per unit of weight (S w ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , more preferentially still from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ ; and
  • a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising at least a C 2 -C 3 2 polyol ; at least 1 % by weight of hollow particles relative to the total weight of the said composition ; an oil ; and a surfactant chosen from surfactants with an HLB of less than 12, emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof ;
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with a specific surface area per unit of mass (S M ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ ; at least a first hydrocarbon-based oil ; and at least a second hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from branched esters, pentaerythritol esters, hydrogenated polyolefins and fatty acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof ; the first hydrocarbon-based oil being present in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight of the mixture of the first and second oils.
  • the invention relates to a composition for topical application provided in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising :
  • - hydrophobic silica aerogel particles exhibiting a specific surface per unit of weight (Sw) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , more preferentially still from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ ; and
  • the cosmetic compositions comprising a mixture of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ ; at least a first hydrocarbon-based oil ; and at least a second hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from branched esters, pentaerythritol esters, hydrogenated polyolefins and fatty acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof ; the first hydrocarbon-based oil being present in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight of the mixture of the first and second oils.
  • a composition for topical application comprising:
  • - hydrophobic silica aerogel particles exhibiting a specific surface per unit of weight (S w ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , more preferentially still from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ ; and
  • alkyl polyglucosides and sugar fatty acid esters which are optionally oxyalkylenated, for example oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, or polyglycerolated and chosen from esters or mixtures of esters of C 8 -C 2 2 fatty acid and of sucrose (saccharose), maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C14-C22 fatty acid and of (C1-C4 alkyl) glucose, such as methyl glucose, and their mixtures.
  • sucrose sucrose
  • maltose glucose or fructose
  • esters or mixtures of esters of C14-C22 fatty acid and of (C1-C4 alkyl) glucose such as methyl glucose, and their mixtures.
  • composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratinous substances, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratinous fibers (such as the hair or eyelashes).
  • a physiologically acceptable medium that is to say a medium compatible with all keratinous substances, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratinous fibers (such as the hair or eyelashes).
  • the present invention makes it possible to obtain compositions which are very mild for the skin, both in terms of feel and of tolerance, and which do not exhibit a sticky or whitening effect during application or at the end, after penetration into the skin.
  • Another subject matter of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances which consists in applying, to the keratinous substances, a composition as defined above.
  • Another subject matter of the invention is the use of said composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin of the body or face or for caring for the hair.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical C0 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (S w ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size, expressed as the volume- average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • S w specific surface per unit of weight
  • D[0.5] volume- average diameter
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • D[0.5] volume-average diameter
  • the specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
  • the BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of nonspherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter.
  • This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (S w ) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention can advantageously exhibit a packed density (p) ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 and preferably from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density known as the packed density
  • this density can be assessed according to the following protocol:
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of volume S v ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • S v S w x p; where p is the packed density, expressed in g/cm 3 , and S w is the specific surface per unit of weight, expressed in m 2 /g, as defined above.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • the absorption capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/w.
  • the aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica, the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface with trimethylsilyl groups trimethylsilylated silica
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, for example, of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which exhibit an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • Aerogel TLD 201 Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 , Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content as active material ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 1 % to 5% by weight and more preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compound or compounds chosen from sugars and their derivatives are chosen from sugar fatty acid esters, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, for example oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, or polyglycerolated, alkyl polyglucosides, and carbohydrates of the family of the monosaccharides, or of the oligosaccharides, or of the homopolysaccharides.
  • the sugar fatty acid ester or esters can be sugar or alkyl sugar fatty acid monoesters or polyesters. They can be oxyalkylenated, for example oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, or polyglycerolated.
  • the sugar fatty acid ester is chosen from sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and their mixtures, saccharose monolaurate, saccharose monococoate, methyl glucose monostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, methyl 6-O-hexadecanoyl-D-glucoside, 6-O-hexadecanoyl-D-maltoside and their mixtures, preferably sucrose monostearate.
  • the C 8 -C 2 2 (preferably C12-C22 and more preferably still C14-C22) fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used according to the invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms (preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and more preferably still from 8 to 22 carbon atoms).
  • the fatty unit of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, cocoates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates, oleates and their mixtures. Stearates are preferably used.
  • the sugar unit of the sugar fatty acid ester or esters is chosen from sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, trehalose or methyl glucose.
  • sucrose or glucose is preferably used.
  • sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose fatty acid esters or mixtures of esters of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and their mixtures, such as the products sold by Croda under the names Crodesta F50, F70, F1 10 and F160, respectively having an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) of 5, 7, 1 1 and 16, or the sucrose monostearate sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the reference Tegosoft PSE 141 G, saccharose monolaurate, such as the product sold under the name Grilloten LES 65, and saccharose monococoate, sold under the name Grilloten LES 65K by Grillo-Werke, and, as examples of methyl glucose fatty acid esters or mixtures of esters, of methyl glucose monostearate, such as the product sold under the name Grillocose IS by Grillo-Werke, or polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose di
  • glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl 6-0- hexadecanoyl-D-glucoside and 6-O-hexadecanoyl-D-maltoside.
  • Sucrose monostearate is favoured, in particular that sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the reference Tegosoft PSE 141 G (97% sucrose stearate / 3% water).
  • the optionally polyalkoxylated alkyl polyglucoside or polyglucosides can be chosen from the compounds of following general formula:
  • R-i denotes a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl group of which comprises from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the group G denotes a sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is a number ranging from 1 to 10.
  • ethers or mixtures of ethers of C 8 -C 2 2 fatty alcohol and of glucose can be chosen in particular from the group consisting of ethers or mixtures of ethers of C 8 -C 2 2 fatty alcohol and of glucose, maltose, sucrose, xylose or fructose and ethers or mixtures of ethers of C14-C22 fatty alcohol and of methyl glucose.
  • the fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl and octyldodecyl units and their mixtures, such as cetearyl.
  • the HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) of these surfactants is preferably between 8 and 18.
  • the alkyl polyglucoside is chosen from decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoylglucoside, octyldodecyl xyloside and their mixtures, preferably cetearyl glucoside and arachidyl glucoside.
  • alkyl polyglucosides of decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, for example sold by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, for example sold under the name Montanov 68 by Seppic, under the name Tego Care CG90 by Evonik Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE 3302 by Henkel, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by Seppic, the mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35/65) sold under the name Montanov 82 by Seppic, or octyldodecyl xyloside, sold under the names Fluidanov 20X or
  • the alkyl polyglucoside or polyglucosides are chosen from cetearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, for example sold under the name Montanov 68 by Seppic, under the name Tego Care CG90 by Evonik Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE 3302 by Henkel, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by Seppic, or the mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35/65) sold under the name Montanov 82 by Seppic.
  • Carbohydrate is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising a carbonyl (aldehyde or ketone) group and several hydroxyl (-OH) groups. Carbohydrates were historically known as carbon hydrates. Their chemical formula is based on the model C n (H 2 0)p (hence the historical name). However, this model is not suitable for all carbohydrates, some of which comprise heteroatoms, such as nitrogen or phosphorus.
  • Carbohydrates normally comprise: (1 ) monosaccharides, which are simple, non-hydrolyzable crystal-forming molecules. They are of two types: (a) aldoses, comprising an aldehyde functional group on the first carbon, and ketoses, comprising a ketone functional group on the second carbon. They are also distinguished according to the number of carbon atoms which they possess. (2) oligosaccharides, which are monosaccharide polymers having a sequence of monosaccharides comprising from 2 to 10 monosaccharide units linked via glycoside bonds.
  • polysaccharides which are monosaccharide polymers having a sequence of more than 10 monosaccharide units (for example: amylose, amylopectin, cellulose or glycogen).
  • oligosaccharides and polysaccharides the following are distinguished:
  • - homopolysaccharides are carbohydrates, the hydrolysis of which gives only one type of monosaccharide;
  • glycosides and heteropolysaccharides are carbohydrates, the hydrolysis of which does not give only one type of monosaccharide. These are polymers of monosaccharides and of non-carbohydrate molecule(s). Mention may be made, as example of glycoside, of salicin.
  • the invention relates to carbohydrates of the family of the:
  • trioses comprising 3 carbons: dihydroxyacetone or glyceraldehyde;
  • - tetroses comprising 4 carbons: erythrose, threose or erythrulose;
  • - pentoses comprising 5 carbons: ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose or deoxyribose;
  • - hexoses comprising 6 carbons: allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, fucose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fuculose, psicose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, quinovose, pneumose or rhamnose;
  • - heptoses comprising 7 carbons: sedoheptulose, glucoheptose, idoheptulose, mannoheptulose or taloheptulose;
  • Use will more preferably be made, among these monosaccharides, of trehalose and/or hexoses, and more particularly glucose, mannose, rhamnose and fucose.
  • CFA name Biosaccharide Gum-1
  • oligosaccharides which are composed of two monosaccharide molecules and which can be reducing or non-reducing.
  • non-reducing disaccharide is understood to mean any disaccharide, the 1 carbon of which, carrying the hemiacetal OH, is involved in a bond, namely the hemiacetal functional group of which is not free.
  • reducing disaccharide is understood to mean any disaccharide, the hemiacetal functional group of which is free.
  • Mention may be made, among non-reducing disaccharides, of sucrose or trehalose.
  • Mention may be made, among reducing disaccharides, of lactose, maltose, cellobiose, isomaltose or melibiose.
  • Trisaccharides which are composed of three monosaccharide molecules, such as, for example, raffinose, gentianose or melezitose.
  • homopolysaccharides or homoglycans which are composed of the same monosaccharide: fructans, glucans, galactans or mannans, for example, and which can be linear, branched or mixed.
  • fructan homopolymers including inulin, for example, which is a polysaccharide composed of fructose units connected via a * ⁇ (2 ⁇ 1 ) bond; the fructose chain terminating with an a-D-glucose;
  • glucan homopolymers including starches, for example, which are non-reducing homogenous polysaccharides composed of two compounds: amylose (water-soluble), polymer formed of glucose bonded via an a(1 ⁇ 4) bond (20% to 30%), and amylopectin (insoluble), amylose branched via an a(1 ⁇ 6) bond (70% to 80%). Mention may also be made of glycogen, which at the structural level is virtually identical to starch: it has more branchings than starch (one branching every 10 glucose residues) but all the remainder of the structure is identical to starch. Its molar mass is greater (of the order of 10 6 g.rmol " 1 ).
  • cellulose which is a homogenous polysaccharide formed of glucose bonded via a ⁇ (1 ⁇ 4) bond.
  • dextrans which are compounds formed of D-glucose units connected via an a(1 ⁇ 6) glycoside bond.
  • galactan homopolymers including agar, for example, which is a mixed polysaccharide composed of D- and L-galactose esterified by sulfuric acid, or carrageenans. or also xylose homopolymers (xylans) or mannose homopolymers (mannans).
  • the carbohydrate or carbohydrates are chosen from monosaccharides.
  • the compound or compounds chosen from sugars and their derivatives are chosen from sucrose esters, glucose esters, glucose ethers, rhamnose, mannose, trehalose or fucose.
  • the compound or compounds chosen from sugars and their derivatives can be present in the composition in accordance with the invention in a content as active material (AM) ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • AM content as active material
  • composition according to the invention can be provided in any formulation form conventionally used for topical applications and in particular in the form of dispersions of lotion or aqueous gel type, of emulsions with a liquid to semi-solid consistency, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or of liquid to semi-solid suspensions of cream or emulsified gel type.
  • the composition is provided in the form of a direct emulsion of oil-in-water (O/W) type or of an inverse emulsion of water-in-oil (W/O) type.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase will be chosen according to the sense of the emulsion. It can range, for example, from 1 % to 80% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • This indicated amount does not comprise the content of lipophilic surfactants.
  • the fatty phase includes any fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or which is solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty compound, which are present in said composition.
  • the fatty phase of the composition in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil.
  • oil is understood to mean any fatty substance which is in liquid form at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile or nonvolatile oils can be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or their mixtures.
  • silicon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • nonvolatile oil is understood to mean an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).
  • nonvolatile oils can be chosen in particular from nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, if appropriate fluorinated, and/or nonvolatile silicone oils.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil suitable for use in the invention of:
  • oils of vegetable origin such as phytosteryl esters, such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytosteryl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides composed of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin
  • hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin such as, for example: • synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, squalane and their mixtures, in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene,
  • oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R-i represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R-i + R 2 is >10.
  • esters can in particular be chosen from esters, in particular fatty acid esters, such as, for example:
  • cetearyl octanoate esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4- diheptanoate, 2-ethyl
  • polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters such as d i pentaeryth rity I tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
  • ⁇ esters of dimer diols and of dimer diacids such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and
  • Lusplan DD-DA7 ® sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application FR 03 02809,
  • fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol,
  • nonvolatile silicone oils such as, for example, nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes and (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100
  • PDMSs nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,
  • volatile oil is understood to mean an oil (or nonaqueous medium) which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a nonzero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar ® or Permethyl ® trade names.
  • hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar ® or Permethyl ® trade names.
  • volatile oils of volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s) and having in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and especially from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicones such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s) and having in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and especially from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures.
  • Use may also be made of volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and their mixtures.
  • the term "pasty fatty substance” is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change in state (this is not the case with all pasty compounds, I believe - for example, petrolatum is always solid, unless I am mistaken), which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance, measured at 23°C, can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to the standard ISO 1 1357-3:1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23°C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • the pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic fatty substances and fatty substances of vegetable origin.
  • a pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of vegetable origin.
  • polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyalkylene glycol, ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, and their mixtures, the ether of pentaerythritol and of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene (5 OE) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), the ether of pentaerythritol and of polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their mixtures, and more especially the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil mixture, sold under the name Lanolide by Vevy, in which mixture the constituents are in a 46/46/8 ratio by weight: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean
  • the pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.
  • copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer, such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • esters of a glycerol oligomer in particular diglycerol esters, especially condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols has reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as in particular those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by Sasol,
  • esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid if appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen in particular from esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA or Lusplan PHY/IS-DA), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures,
  • mango butter such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 by AarhusKarlshamn, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil or mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as the soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel ® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), shea butter, in particular that having the I NCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that sold under the reference Sheasoft ® by AarhusKarlshamn,
  • cocoa butter in particular that which is sold under the name CT Cocoa Butter Deodorized by Dutch Cocoa BV or that which is sold under the name Beurre De Cacao NCB HD703 758 by Barry Callebaut,
  • the pasty fatty substance is chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, a soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, and their mixtures, and more particularly those referenced above.
  • the waxes under consideration in the context of the present invention are generally deformable or nondeformable solid lipophilic compounds at ambient temperature (25°C) which exhibit a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which have a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally it is subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute
  • it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute
  • a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes capable of being used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures which are solid at ambient temperature. They can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and/or silicone waxes.
  • hydrocarbon waxes such as natural beeswax (or bleached beeswax), synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Jamaica Noda, candelilla wax, such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch
  • microcrystalline waxes such as, for example, the microcrystalline waxes having a melting point of greater than 85°C, such as the products HI-MIC® 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 sold by Nippon Seiro, ceresins or ozokerites, such as, for example, isoparaffins having a melting point of less than 40°C, such as the product EMW-0003 sold by Nippon Seiro, oolefin oligomers, such as the Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene/propylene copolymers
  • the wax used in a composition in accordance with the invention exhibits a melting point of greater than 35°C, better still of greater than
  • the wax or waxes are chosen from polymethylene waxes; the silicone wax sold under the name Dow Corning 2501 Cosmetic
  • Wax by Dow Corning (INCI name: bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane); beeswax; vegetable waxes, such as carnauba wax; the mixture of polyglycerolated (3 mol) vegetable (mimosa/jojoba/sunflower) waxes sold under the name Hydracire S by
  • the other fatty substances which can be present in the fatty phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid or palmitic acid, or fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and their mixtures (cetearyl alcohol).
  • the fatty phase can also comprise other compounds dissolved in the oils, such as gelling agents and/or structuring agents.
  • These compounds can in particular be chosen from gums, such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl C1 -4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the KSG names by Shin-Etsu, under the Trefil name by Dow Corning or under the Gransil names by Grant Industries; and their mixtures.
  • gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl C1 -4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the KSG names by Shin-Etsu, under the Trefil name by Dow Corning or under the Gransil names by Grant Industries; and their mixtures.
  • fatty substances can be chosen in a manner varied by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
  • the composition when the composition comprises a fatty phase, the latter predominantly comprises nonsilicone fatty substances.
  • the content of silicone fatty substances in the composition is less than 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the fatty phase, and more preferably still between 10% and 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the fatty phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises at least water.
  • the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 % to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, better still from 30% to 95% by weight and even better still from 40% to 95% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the formulation form of the composition desired.
  • the amount of water can represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight and better still at least 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase can comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and their mixtures.
  • the emulsions generally comprise at least one additional emulsifier, other than the sugars and sugar derivatives as defined above, chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as mixtures. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
  • the additional emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion as active material (AM) ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight and more preferably still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • AM active material
  • W/O emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning or the oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10 Dimethicone sold under the name KF-6017 by Shin-Etsu, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 R by Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt.
  • dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture
  • coemulsifiers can also be added thereto.
  • the coemulsifier can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters. Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI, and their mixtures.
  • polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by Goldschmidt
  • sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI
  • sorbitan glyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by
  • O/W emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say derivatives comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of C 8 - C 2 4 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; and their mixtures.
  • emulsifiers of nonionic surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain
  • glyceryl ester of fatty acid of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and their mixtures.
  • polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.
  • polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.
  • Use may also be made of mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product comprising glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product comprising glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
  • these surfactants such as, for example, the product comprising glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product comprising glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
  • fatty alcohol ethers for example, of polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol).
  • ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those with the CTFA name Ceteareth-20 or Ceteareth-30, and their mixtures.
  • lipoamino acids and their salts such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, such as, for example, monosodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-1 1 PF, and disodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-21 P, by Ajinomoto.
  • the composition does not comprise silicone emulsifier(s).
  • the compound or compounds chosen from sugar derivatives are present in the composition as predominant emulsifier(s).
  • the term "predominant emulsifier” is understood to mean the fact that, in the case where the composition comprises additional emulsifiers other than the sugar derivatives, these are always each present in an amount by weight which is lower than the amount by weight of the sugar derivatives.
  • the compound or compounds chosen from sugar derivatives are present in the composition as sole emulsifier(s).
  • compositions of the invention can comprise one or more of the adjuvants normal in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and/or thickeners; moisturizers; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; agents for combating free radicals; sequestering agents; antioxidants; preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; fillers; and their mixtures.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
  • the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example from 0.1 % to 20% and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Active agents
  • ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of D,L-a-tocopheryl 2-L- ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the reference Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and their mixtures.
  • active agent such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of D,L-a-tocopheryl 2-L- ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the reference Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and their mixture
  • the ascorbic acid can be of any nature. Thus, it can be of natural origin in the powder form or in the form of orange juice, preferably orange juice concentrate. It can also be of synthetic origin, preferably in the powder form. Mention may be made, as other active agents which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of moisturizing agents, such as protein hydrolyzates and polyols, such as glycerol, glycols, such as polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti- inflammatories; procyanidol oligomers; vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), the derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents, such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; o hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives;
  • the whitening effect (or "soap" effect) is evaluated by a panel of 8 experts trained in the description of care products.
  • the sensory evaluation is carried out as follows: 0.05 ml of product is applied to the back of the hand and the appearance of a white film is evaluated during application of the product up to penetration into the skin.
  • Phases A1 and A2, on the one hand, and phase B, on the other hand, are homogenized with stirring under hot conditions and then emulsification is carried out with stirring by pouring the fatty phase A1 +A2 into the aqueous phase B. Cooling is carried out down to 30°C and then the silica aerogel (phase C) is added.
  • Composition B according to the invention exhibits less of a "soap" effect during application than the comparative composition A not comprising silica aerogel.
  • Phase A and phase B are homogenized with stirring under hot conditions and then emulsification is carried out with stirring by pouring the fatty phase A into the aqueous phase B. Cooling is carried out down to 30°C and then the silica aerogel (phase C) is added. Phases D and E are then added at ambient temperature.
  • Composition D according to the invention exhibits less of a "soap" effect during application than the comparative composition C not comprising silica aerogel.
  • Composition H according to the invention exhibits less of a "soap" effect during application than the comparative composition G not comprising silica aerogel.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition pour application topique comprenant des particules d'aérogel de silice hydrophobes et au moins un composé parmi des sucres et leurs dérivés. La présente invention concerne un procédé pour le traitement cosmétique de substances kératiniques qui consiste à appliquer, sur les substances kératiniques, une composition telle que définie ci-dessus, ainsi que l'utilisation de ladite composition dans le domaine cosmétique ou dermatologique et en particulier pour le soin, la protection et/ou le maquillage de la peau du corps ou du visage ou pour le soin des cheveux. La présent invention permet d'obtenir des compositions qui sont très douces pour la peau, à la fois en termes de toucher et de tolérance, et qui ne présentent pas d'effet collant ou blanchissant à l'application ou à la fin.
PCT/EP2013/052246 2012-02-06 2013-02-05 Composition cosmétique comprenant des particules d'aérogel de silice et un sucre ou un dérivé de sucre WO2013117548A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

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FR1251081A FR2986429B1 (fr) 2012-02-06 2012-02-06 Composition cosmetique comprenant des particules d'aerogel de silice et un sucre ou un derive de sucre
FR1251081 2012-02-06
US201261600773P 2012-02-20 2012-02-20
US61/600,773 2012-02-20

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