WO2014083116A2 - Composition comprenant un polymère superabsorbant et une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse visuellement distinctes, la phase grasse ayant une transition thermique à une température supérieure ou égale à 25°c - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un polymère superabsorbant et une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse visuellement distinctes, la phase grasse ayant une transition thermique à une température supérieure ou égale à 25°c Download PDF

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WO2014083116A2
WO2014083116A2 PCT/EP2013/074989 EP2013074989W WO2014083116A2 WO 2014083116 A2 WO2014083116 A2 WO 2014083116A2 EP 2013074989 W EP2013074989 W EP 2013074989W WO 2014083116 A2 WO2014083116 A2 WO 2014083116A2
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composition
phase
fatty
fatty phase
composition according
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PCT/EP2013/074989
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WO2014083116A3 (fr
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Laure Fageon
Véronique Gourlaouen
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/24—Thermal properties
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/546—Swellable particulate polymers

Definitions

  • composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and a visually distinct aqueous phase and fatty phase, the fatty phase having a thermal transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C
  • the present patent application relates to a composition for topical application comprising a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the fatty phase and the aqueous phase being visually distinct, the aqueous phase comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and the fatty phase having at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetics and dermatology fields, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for hair care.
  • compositions are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
  • O/W emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.
  • These products may be in the form of a two-phase system, the oily phase being above the aqueous phase.
  • this type of product In order to be used, this type of product must be homogenized before use by the consumer, since the dispersion of one phase in the other phase is not stable over time. The latter action does not guarantee the composition of the product applied to the skin and therefore its properties and its effectiveness.
  • an aqueous phase comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and of a fatty phase having at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C makes it possible to obtain compositions which comprise an aqueous phase and a fatty phase which are visually distinct, and which do not have the drawbacks of those of the prior art.
  • the subject of the present invention is a composition
  • a composition comprising a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the fatty phase and the aqueous phase being visually distinct, the aqueous phase comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and the fatty phase having at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C.
  • composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or the skin appendages, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratin fibres (such as the hair or the eyelashes).
  • a physiologically acceptable medium i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratin fibres (such as the hair or the eyelashes).
  • the present invention makes it possible to prepare compositions of which the two aqueous and oily phases are visually distinct, of which the dispersion of the two phases with respect to one another is stable over time, and which do not require a particular production or packaging process.
  • the composition according to the invention has advantageous cosmetic properties, such as good comfort on application, a feeling of freshness, good skin moisturization, and good spreading.
  • the distinction of the two aqueous and oily phases, in the composition in accordance with the invention is done visually, on a macroscopic scale, i.e. with the naked eye.
  • the expression "the two aqueous and oily phases are visually distinct” is intended to mean that the oil globules dispersed in the aqueous phase are visually distinct with the naked eye.
  • the subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetics or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for hair care.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water.
  • the amount of aqueous phase can range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 70% to 99% by weight and better still from 80% to 97% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the galenical form of the composition desired.
  • the amount of water may represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight and better still at least 60% by weight.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic solvent for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol
  • polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents.
  • Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned, for example, include carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol® products (carbomers) and the Pemulen products (acrylate/Ci 0 -C 3 o-alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; cellulose-based derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof; sodium polyacrylates such as the product which is sold under the name Cosmedia SP ® by the company Cognis; polymers
  • superabsorbent polymer is intended to mean a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and in particular distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the publication "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science
  • polymers have a large capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus engorged with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus conserve their individualized particulate state.
  • the superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under normal temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 100000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water.
  • the value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 ⁇ filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
  • the superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles.
  • the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated state, an average size of less than or equal to 100 ⁇ , preferably less than or equal to 50 ⁇ , ranging for example from 10 to 100 ⁇ , preferably from 15 to 50 ⁇ , and better still from 20 to 30 ⁇ .
  • the average size of the particles corresponds to the weight-average diameter (D 50 ) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.
  • these particles swell, forming soft particles which have an average size that can range from 10 ⁇ to 1000 ⁇ , preferentially from 20 ⁇ to 500 ⁇ and even more preferentially from 50 ⁇ to 400 ⁇ .
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are in the form of spherical particles.
  • absorbent polymers chosen from:
  • Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked. They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably neutralized, and which are in particulate form.
  • the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with an average size (or average diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles.
  • These polymers preferably have a capacity for absorbing water containing 0.9% of NaCI of from 10 to 100 g/g, preferably from 20 to 80 g/g and better still from 30 to 80 g/g.
  • the superabsorbent polymer(s) may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, or even from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase in the composition in accordance with the invention can range, for example, from 1 % to 50% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 30% by weight and better still from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This indicated amount does not comprise the content of lipophilic surfactants.
  • the fatty phase has at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C.
  • the thermal transitions of the fatty phase are evaluated by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry), using a DSC Q100 from TA Instruments equipped with a refrigeration system and a nitrogen stream. The measurements were carried out on samples of 5 mg of fatty phase.
  • the capsule containing the sample and the reference capsule are subjected to a first temperature increase from 20°C to 85°C at a rate of 5°C per minute, and then a decrease from 85°C to -20°C at a rate of 5°C per minute and, finally, a second increase from -20°C to 85°C at a rate of 5°C per minute.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention has at least one thermal melting transition as described previously, at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C. According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention has at least one thermal melting transition, as described previously, at a temperature between 35°C and 120°C.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention has at least one thermal melting transition, as described previously, at a temperature between 35°C and 85°C.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may have other phase transitions of melting type at temperatures below 25°C.
  • the fatty phase includes any fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or which is solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty compound, which are present in said composition.
  • the term "pasty fatty substance” is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the initial melting point of the pasty fatty substance may be less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance, measured at 23°C, may represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85% by weight and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard
  • the melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments, with a temperature increase of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to the standard ISO 1 1357- 3:1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23°C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • the pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic fatty substances and fatty substances of vegetable origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of vegetable origin.
  • polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythrityl ethers of a polyalkylene glycol, fatty alkyl ethers of a sugar, and mixtures thereof, the pentaerythrityl ether of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), the pentaerythrityl ether of polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more especially the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soya bean oil mixture, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, in which mixture the constituents are in a 46/46/8 ratio by weight: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% so
  • liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 - Cioo and preferably C 2 -C 5 o diols,
  • the pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon-based polymer.
  • liposoluble polyethers that are particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C 6 -C 30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30.
  • copolymers such as the long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • - esters of a glycerol oligomer in particular diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols has reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as in particular those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by Sasol,
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen in particular from esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA or Lusplan PHY/IS- DA), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,
  • mango butter such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AarhusKarlshamn,
  • hydrogenated soya bean oil hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil or mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as the soya bean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel ® by the company AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil),
  • shea butter in particular that having the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that sold under the reference Sheasoft ® by AarhusKarlshamn,
  • the pasty fatty substance is chosen from a mixture of hydrogenated soya bean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oils, shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly those referenced above.
  • the waxes under consideration in the context of the present invention are generally deformable or non-deformable solid lipophilic compounds at ambient temperature (25°C) which exhibit a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which have a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • ambient temperature 25°C
  • 30°C 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally it is subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • a first temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute
  • it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute
  • a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes capable of being used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof, which are solid at ambient temperature. They can be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and/or silicone waxes.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes such as natural beeswax (or bleached beeswax), synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Jamaica Noda, candelilla wax, such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes, such as, for example, the microcrystalline waxes having a melting point of greater than 85°C, such as the products HI-MIC® 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 sold by Nippon Seiro, ceresins or ozokerites, such as, for example, isoparaffins having a melting point of less than 40°C, such as the product EMW-0003 sold by Nippon Seiro, oolefin oligomers, such as the Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene/propylene copo
  • the wax used in a composition in accordance with the invention exhibits a melting point of greater than 35°C, better still of greater than 40°C, indeed even of greater than 45°C or also of greater than 55°C.
  • the wax(es) is (are) chosen from polymethylene waxes; beeswax; vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax; the mixture of polyglycerolated (3 mol) vegetable waxes (mimosa / jojoba / sunflower) sold under the name Hydracire S by the company Gattefosse; the hydrogenated castor oil sold under the name Antisettle CVP by the company Cray Valley; microcrystalline waxes, such as the product which is sold under the name Microwax HW by the company Paramelt.
  • the fatty phase of the composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one oil.
  • the oil(s) present in the composition may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • oil is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile or non-volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.
  • silicon oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil is intended to mean an oil mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil having a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, if appropriate fluorinated, and/or non-volatile silicone oils. Mention may in particular be made, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil suitable for use in the invention, of:
  • oils of vegetable origin such as phytosteryl esters, such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytosteryl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soya bean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof, in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene;
  • oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R-i represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R-i + R 2 is > 10.
  • esters can in particular be chosen from esters, in particular fatty acid esters, such as, for example:
  • cetearyl octanoate esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4- diheptanoate, 2-ethyl
  • esters of dimer diols and of dimer diacids such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ® , sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application FR 03 02809,
  • ⁇ fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol,
  • dialkyl carbonates it being possible for the two alkyl chains to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,
  • non-volatile silicone oils such as, for example, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes and (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof;
  • PDMSs non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethico
  • volatile oil is intended to mean an oil (or non-aqueous medium) which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a nonzero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar ® or Permethyl ® trade names.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar ® or Permethyl ® trade names.
  • Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 "6 m 2 /s), and in particular containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicones for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 "6 m 2 /s), and in particular containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the other fatty substances which can be present in the fatty phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid or palmitic acid, or fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol).
  • the various fatty substances as defined previously can be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art such that the fatty phase has at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C, and so as to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or of texture.
  • the fatty phase comprises at least one wax and at least one oil.
  • the fatty phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based wax.
  • the fatty phase can also contain other compounds dissolved in the fatty phase, such as gelling agents and/or structuring agents. These compounds can in particular be chosen from modified clays, such as hectorite and derivatives thereof, such as the products sold under the Bentone names; gums, such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl(Ci-C 4 )alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone, silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the "KSG" names by the company Shin-Etsu, under the "Trefil” name by the company Dow Corning or under the "Gransil” names by the company Grant Industries; semi-crystalline polymers, such as the product sold under the names Intelimer I PA-1 and Intelimer I PA13-6 by the company Air Products and Chemicals; dextrin palmitates, such as R
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one gelling and/or structuring agent chosen from semi- crystalline polymers, such as the products sold under the names Intelimer I PA-1 and Intelimer I PA13-6 by the company Air Products and Chemicals, and dextrin palmitates, such as Rheopearl KL2 - OR from Chiba Flour Milling; and mixtures thereof.
  • semi- crystalline polymers such as the products sold under the names Intelimer I PA-1 and Intelimer I PA13-6 by the company Air Products and Chemicals, and dextrin palmitates, such as Rheopearl KL2 - OR from Chiba Flour Milling; and mixtures thereof.
  • composition in accordance with the invention is prepared according to the usual methods.
  • It is in the form of a direct emulsion or of a dispersion and can have the appearance of a gel with white or coloured visible particles in a dispersion, this gel possibly being more or less fluid.
  • the composition preferably has a skin-friendly pH which generally ranges from 3 to 8 and preferably from 5.5 to 8.
  • the composition may contain at least one emulsifier (or surfactant).
  • Said emulsifiers may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifier(s) is (are) generally present in an amount between 0% and 10% by weight and preferably from 0% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of surfactants is between 0% and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition and even more preferentially between 0% and 1 % by weight.
  • the emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.02% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the content of surfactants is low, preferably less than 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition and even more preferentially less than 1 % by weight.
  • emulsifiers examples include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90® by the company Goldschmidt, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning
  • coemulsifiers can also be added thereto.
  • the coemulsifier can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters. Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company I CI , sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company I CI , and mixtures thereof.
  • polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt
  • sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company I CI
  • emulsifiers examples include non-ionic surfactants, and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e.
  • derivatives containing oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units such as the glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • CFA name glyceryl stearate
  • glyceryl ricinoleate glyceryl ricinoleate
  • polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.
  • polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.
  • Use may also be made of mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
  • these surfactants such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
  • fatty alcohol ethers for example, of polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol).
  • ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those with the CTFA name Ceteareth-20 or Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
  • sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers of methyl glucose isostearate, sold under the name Isolan-IS by the company Degussa Goldschmidt, or else sucrose distearate, sold under the name Crodesta F50 by the company Croda, and sucrose stearate, sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by the company Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods.
  • lipoamino acids and salts thereof such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, for instance monosodium stearoyi glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-1 1 PF, and disodium stearoyi glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-21 P, by the company Ajinomoto, and also hydrophobically modified inulins, such as Inutec SP1 sold by the company Beneo Bio Based Chemicals.
  • the composition is free of surfactant.
  • the composition comprises at least one surfactant chosen from hydrophobically modified inulins.
  • the composition comprises a hydrophobically modified inulin as predominant surfactant.
  • the composition in accordance the invention comprises a hydrophobically modified inulin as sole surfactant.
  • the term "predominant surfactant” is intended to mean the fact that, in the case where the composition comprises additional surfactants other than a hydrophobically modified inulin, these are always each present in an amount by weight which is lower than the amount by weight of the hydrophobically modified inulins.
  • the term "hydrophobically modified inulin” is in particular intended to mean an inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular modified by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of said inulin. Inulin is part of the fructan family.
  • Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally combined with several saccharide residues other than fructose.
  • Fructans may be linear or branched.
  • Fructans may be products obtained directly from a vegetable or microbial source or alternatively products whose chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic.
  • Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60.
  • the first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are for the most part linked via ⁇ -2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins.
  • the second group also corresponds to linear fructoses, but the fructose units are essentially linked via ⁇ -2-6 bonds. These products are levans.
  • the third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. containing ⁇ -2-6 and ⁇ -2-1 sequences. These are essentially branched fructans, such as graminans.
  • Inulin may be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke.
  • the hydrophobiclly modified inulin is preferentially obtained from chicory.
  • the inulins used in the compositions according to the invention are hydrophobically modified. In particular, they are obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of the fructan.
  • the hydrophobic chains that may be grafted onto the main chain of the fructan may in particular be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains.
  • These hydrocarbon- based or organopolysiloxane chains may in particular comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide functions in particular such as methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.
  • hydrophobically modified inulin(s) used in the context of the invention are inulins bearing hydrophobic groups chosen from hydrophobic carbamate or ester groups.
  • hydrophobic carbamate group is intended to mean a C4-C32 alkyl carbamate group, i.e. a group -OCONH-R, R being a C4-C32 alkyl.
  • hydrophobic ester group is intended to mean a C4-C32 alkyl ester group, i.e. a group -OCO-R, R being a C4-C32 alkyl.
  • the inulin has a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000, preferably from 2 to about 100 and even more preferentially from 2 to about 70, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a fructose unit.
  • the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C 6 -C 2 o alkyl carbamate group.
  • the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C 8 -Ci 8 alkyl carbamate group.
  • the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C10-C18 alkyl carbamate group. More preferentially, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C10-C14 alkyl carbamate group.
  • the hydrophobic carbamate group is a lauryl carbamate group (C12 alkyl group).
  • Inulins bearing hydrophobic carbamate groups are described, for example, in patent application WO 99/64549.
  • the hydrophobic ester group is a C 6 -C 2 o alkyl ester group.
  • the hydrophobic ester group is a C 8 -C 2 o alkyl ester group.
  • the hydrophobic ester group is a C10-C20 alkyl ester group. More preferentially, the hydrophobic ester group is a C10-C18 alkyl ester group.
  • Inulins bearing hydrophobic ester groups are described, for example, in patent US 5 877 144.
  • hydrophobic groups of inulin are chosen from C4-C32 alkyl carbamate or C4-C32 alkyl ester groups, preferably from C10-C18 alkyl carbamate or Ci 0 -Ci 8 alkyl ester groups.
  • an inulin bearing hydrophobic carbamate groups is used.
  • the inulin bearing hydrophobic carbamate or ester groups may have a degree of substitution (proportion of OH of the inulin substituted with a hydrophobic group) ranging from 0.01 to 0.5, preferably ranging from 0.02 to 0.4 and preferentially ranging from 0.05 to 0.35.
  • the degree of substitution may range from 0.1 to 0.3.
  • inulins bearing hydrophobic ester groups mention may be made of stearoyl inulin, such as the products sold under the names Lifidrem INST ® by the company Engelhard and Rheopearl INS ® by the company Ciba; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin, such as the products sold under the names Lifidrem INUK ® and Lifidrem INUM ® by the company Engelhard.
  • inulin bearing hydrophobic carbamate groups that may be mentioned is inulin lauryl carbamate, such as the product sold under the name Inutec SP1 ® by the company Beneo.
  • the hydrophobically modified inulin in the composition of the invention is based on chicory inulin and in particular is inulin lauryl carbamate.
  • compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the adjuvants that are common in the cosmetics and dermatology fields: moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; sequestrants; antioxidants; preserving agents; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; colorants (pigments such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide, nacres, soluble dyes), and fillers; and mixtures thereof.
  • the adjuvants that are common in the cosmetics and dermatology fields: moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; sequestrants; antioxidants; preserving agents; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; colorants (pigments such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide, nacres, soluble dyes), and fillers; and mixtures thereof.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
  • the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example from 0.1 % to 20% and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may comprise one or more active agents chosen, for example, from moisturizing agents, such as protein hydrolysates and polyols, for instance glycerol, glycols, for instance polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti-inflammatory agents; oligomeric proanthocyanidins; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; o hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts, of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'
  • composition may also comprise at least one UV-screening agent which may be chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic screening agents and/or inorganic pigments. It will preferentially consist of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV-screening agent.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise one or more fillers.
  • Fillers Mention may, for example, be made of pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments; kaolin; silica; talc; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibres; and mixtures thereof.
  • spherical organic powders for example, of polyamide powders and in particular Nylon® powders, such as Nylon-1 or Polyamide 12 powder, sold under the Orgasol names by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon®; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, sold by the company Dow Corning under the Polytrap name; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the Expancel name by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the Tospearl name by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene/acrylate copoly
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one filler.
  • the thermal transitions of the fatty phases are evaluated according to the protocol described previously. Interest is focused here on the melting points Mp and the enthalpies of fusion ⁇ .
  • compositions A and C according to the invention containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.
  • Composition B containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, but a fatty phase which does ot have a melting peak above 25°C, is a homogeneous cream, the fatty phase of which not visually distinguished.
  • Composition D containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibits a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.
  • Composition E containing a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, but no superabsorbent polymer (replaced in this case with a crosslinked acrylic polymer), is a homogeneous cream, the fatty phase of which is not visually distinguished.
  • Compositions A, F, G, H and I according to the invention containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.
  • Compositions A, J and K according to the invention containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.
  • compositions A and L according to the invention containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.
  • compositions M and N according to the invention containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.
  • compositions O, P, Q and R according to the invention containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.
  • phase globules phase globules
  • compositions S and T according to the invention containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.
  • the macroscopic appearance of the formulae is evaluated at 24 hours.
  • the thermal transitions of the fatty phases are evaluated according to the protocol described previously. Interest is focused here on the melting points Mp.
  • compositions U and V according to the invention containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having a melting peak respectively equal to 25°C and above 25°C, exhibits a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase with the naked eye.
  • Composition B containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, but a fatty phase which does not have a melting peak above 25°C, is a homogeneous cream, the fatty phase of which is not visually distinguished with the naked eye.

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Abstract

La présente invention a pour objet une composition comprenant une phase grasse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, la phase grasse et la phase aqueuse étant visuellement distinctes, la phase aqueuse comprenant au moins un polymère superabsorbant et la phase grasse ayant au moins une transition thermique de fusion à une température supérieure ou égale à 25°C. L'invention a également pour objet l'utilisation de cette composition dans le domaine des produits cosmétiques ou de la dermatologie et, en particulier, pour les soins, la protection et/ou le maquillage de la peau du corps ou du visage ou pour les soins des cheveux. La présente invention permet de préparer des compositions dont les phases aqueuse et huileuse sont visuellement distinctes, dans lesquelles la dispersion des deux phases l'une par rapport à l'autre est stable au cours du temps et qui ne nécessitent pas un procédé de production ou d'emballage particulier. De plus, la composition selon l'invention a des propriétés cosmétiques avantageuses.
PCT/EP2013/074989 2012-11-30 2013-11-28 Composition comprenant un polymère superabsorbant et une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse visuellement distinctes, la phase grasse ayant une transition thermique à une température supérieure ou égale à 25°c WO2014083116A2 (fr)

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FR1261486A FR2998780B1 (fr) 2012-11-30 2012-11-30 Composition comprenant un polymere superabsorbant, une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse visuellement distinctes, la phase grasse presentant une transition thermique a une temperature superieure ou egale a 25 °c
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US10285926B2 (en) 2015-06-29 2019-05-14 The Procter & Gamble Company Superabsorbent polymers and starch powders for use in skin care compositions
WO2020138424A1 (fr) * 2018-12-28 2020-07-02 株式会社 資生堂 Produit cosmétique sous forme de gel

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FR3029111A1 (fr) * 2014-11-27 2016-06-03 Oreal Composition comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse visuellement distinctes

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FR2967056A1 (fr) * 2010-11-05 2012-05-11 Oreal Composition solaire fluide aqueuse a base d'un polymere superabsorbant et d'un copolymere reticule d'acide methacrylique et d'acrylate d'alkyle en c1-c4.

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EP0452202A1 (fr) * 1990-04-05 1991-10-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique ou dermo-pharmaceutique aqueuse contenant en suspension des sphéroides hydratés d'une substance lipidique hydrophile
EP1055406A2 (fr) * 1999-05-26 2000-11-29 L'oreal Composition sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau et ses utilisations notamment cosmétiques
WO2001083876A1 (fr) * 2000-04-27 2001-11-08 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Textiles non-tisses modifies au moyen de petrolatum
US20030054019A1 (en) * 2001-05-17 2003-03-20 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Wet-skin treatment compositions
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FR2967056A1 (fr) * 2010-11-05 2012-05-11 Oreal Composition solaire fluide aqueuse a base d'un polymere superabsorbant et d'un copolymere reticule d'acide methacrylique et d'acrylate d'alkyle en c1-c4.

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10285926B2 (en) 2015-06-29 2019-05-14 The Procter & Gamble Company Superabsorbent polymers and starch powders for use in skin care compositions
WO2020138424A1 (fr) * 2018-12-28 2020-07-02 株式会社 資生堂 Produit cosmétique sous forme de gel
JPWO2020138424A1 (ja) * 2018-12-28 2021-11-04 株式会社 資生堂 ジェル状化粧料
JP7387640B2 (ja) 2018-12-28 2023-11-28 株式会社 資生堂 ジェル状化粧料

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