WO2013091974A2

WO2013091974A2 - Use of a combination of 2-methylene-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidincarboxylic acid or the derivate thereof and a blue-green algae extract for increasing the skin barrier function

Info

Publication number: WO2013091974A2
Application number: PCT/EP2012/071820
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ira Hartmann; Soraya Heinen; Marianne DR. WALDMANN-LAUE; Claudia Jassoy
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2011-12-22
Filing date: 2012-11-05
Publication date: 2013-06-27
Also published as: DE102011089582A1; WO2013091974A3

Abstract

The invention relates to a combination of at least one compound of 2-methylene-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidine carboxylic acid or the derivates thereof and at least one blue-green algae extract and if necessary at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide (in particular in the embodiment of one of the cosmetic products of claims 1 to 6) stimulates the epidermal syntheses of filaggrin and/or transglutaminase and/or involucrin. The skin barrier is strengthened.

Description

"Use of a combination of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivative and a blue-green algae extract to increase the skin barrier function"

The barrier function of the skin protects the skin from drying out. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which, as the outermost layer, forms the actual protective cover against the environment. The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum) represents the barrier function function important part. It is worn down in contact with the environment and is therefore in a constant process of renewal. In this renewal process, fine dandruff is continuously released to the outside and the celluloid and lipid material, which has hardened from the inside, is subsequently reproduced.

Elias Skin Model (PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105), which is now recognized in the art, describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (US Pat. Brick-mortar model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks, the complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multi-layered structure, it can also be passed through by lipophilic substances just as easily. The special structure of the horny layer protects the skin and stabilizes its own flexibility by binding a defined amount of water.

Even mechanical stress, such as pressure, shock or shear forces, can be intercepted to an amazing extent by the horny layer alone or in combination with the deeper skin layers. Greater pressure, turning or shearing forces are passed on to the deeper skin layers via the interlocking of the epidermis with the corium. The regulation of water and moisture content is one of the most important functions of the epidermal lipid membrane. However, it not only has a barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, but also contributes to the cohesion of the horny layer.

Even when the skin is cleansed with the aid of a simple water bath - without the addition of surfactants - the horny layer of the skin initially swells. The degree of this swelling depends u. a. from the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, such as. As water-soluble soil constituents, but also the skin's own substances that are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the horny layer. In addition, skin fats are to a certain extent dissolved and washed out by the skin's own surfactants. This causes after initial swelling a subsequent dehydration of the skin, which can be significantly enhanced by detergent additives.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant, as the protective mechanisms of the skin can readily compensate for such minor disorders of the upper layers of the skin. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from the normal status, eg. B. by environmental wear damage or irritation, photodamage, aging skin, etc., the protective mechanism is disturbed on the skin surface. In the case of old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal slows down, whereby in particular the water-binding capacity of the horny layer subsides. It therefore becomes inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a result, even toxic or allergic skin reactions may occur. The reduced integrity and repair performance of the skin barrier results in increased transepidermal water loss. The skin becomes rough, dry, flaky and prone to tense as well as itching.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin or skin affected by atopic dermatitis, there is a priori barrier damage.

Various skincare products are known in the art which are capable of improving the epidermal barrier function. However, these skin care products are usually occlusive in nature, eg. As Vaseline and Vaseline-containing creams, and often have a sticky skin sensation and / or uncomfortable wearing comfort. The ointment or cream is, so to speak, a (second) artificial barrier that is supposed to prevent the loss of water from the skin. Accordingly, this physical barrier - for example, with cleaning agents - can be removed again, whereby the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the skin care effect may decrease with regular treatment. After discontinuation of the product application, the skin returns to its pre-treatment state very quickly. A sustainable product effect is usually not achieved or only to a limited extent. To aid the skin in its natural regeneration and to strengthen its physiological function, more and more intercellular lipid mixtures such as ceramides or ceramide analogues, which are to be used by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier, are increasingly being added to the topical preparations. However, these lipids are usually very expensive raw materials, which are also difficult to formulate because of their high melting point. In addition, their effect is limited because the topically applied lipids penetrate only to a small extent in the barrier-relevant lipid membranes in the middle stratum corneum and are integrated only to a small extent in these structures.

Accordingly, the prior art lacks preparations which have a positive influence on the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer and strengthen or even restore the physicochemical properties of the horny layer and in particular the lamellae of intercellular lipids.

The object of the present invention was to develop topical compositions which strengthen the barrier function of the skin, for example against transepidermal water loss and simultaneously reduce further adverse skin reactions to environmental stress. Another object of the present invention was to develop topical compositions that strengthen the barrier function of the skin. Another object of the present invention was to develop topical compositions that strengthen the barrier function of the skin with a longer lasting effect than the prior art compositions. A further object of the present invention was to develop cost-effective and production-optimized topical compositions which strengthen the barrier function of the skin.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the regeneration of the skin barrier function is significantly accelerated using a combination of at least one compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivative and at least one blue-green algae extract. Furthermore, it has been found experimentally that the epidermal synthesis of filaggrin and / or transglutaminicase and / or involucrin is stimulated by the combination of active substances according to the invention.

The present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the active ingredient combination of at least one compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivative, at least one blue-green algae extract and optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide for stimulation the epidermal synthesis of epidermal synthesis of filaggrin and / or transglutaminicase and / or involucrin. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the active ingredient combination of at least one compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivative, at least one blue-green algae extract and optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide for the regeneration of the skin barrier function. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the active ingredient combination of at least one compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivative, at least one blue-green algae extract and optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide to accelerate the regeneration of the skin barrier function. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the active ingredient combination of at least one compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivative, at least one blue-green algae extract and optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide to improve the appearance of dry skin. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the active ingredient combination of at least one compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivative, at least one blue-green algae extract and optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide to reduce skin dryness. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the active ingredient combination of at least one compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4- pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivative, at least one blue-green algae extract and optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide for stimulating the epidermal synthesis of barrier lipids, for regeneration of the skin barrier function, for accelerating the regeneration of the skin barrier function and / or for improving the appearance of dry skin and at the same time for reducing reddening of the skin.

A second subject of the invention is a cosmetic agent containing a combination of active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier

at least one compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivatives, and

at least one blue-green algae extract, and

optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide

The active ingredient combination according to the invention necessarily comprises at least one 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or its derivative. Under a derivative erfindun accordingly be compounds with the structural unit

understood, wherein at the bonds marked with ^* a variable

Rest binds.

Preferred 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or derivatives thereof are preferably from at least one compound of general formula (I) and / or a physiologically acceptable salt and / or an isomeric or stereoisomeric form thereof Selected compounds in which

R is a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group and R 'is a moiety

-COOR or a grouping -CO (NH) R ¹ , where R is a hydrogen atom, a C ¹ -C ₄ -

Alkyl radical, an amino acid residue, a dipeptide or a tripeptide radical means. Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of the general compounds of the formula (I) are, for example, the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, triethylamine or tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salts and those which are obtained from the reaction of compounds of the formula (I ) with inorganic and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted (for example by one or more hydroxy groups) Ci-C4 mono- or dicarboxylic acids, aromatic carboxylic acids and sulfonic acids such as acetic acid, citric acid, benzoic acid, maleic acid , Fumaric, tartaric and p-toluenesulfonic acid. Examples of particularly preferred physiologically acceptable salts are the Na, K, Mg, Ca and ammonium salts of the compounds according to the formula (I), and the salts which are obtained by the reaction of compounds of the formula (I) with hydrochloric acid , Acetic acid, citric acid and benzoic acid.

Isomeric and stereoisomeric forms of the compounds according to formula (I) are understood according to the invention to mean all occurring optical isomers, diastereomers, racemates or mixtures thereof.

The term amino acid is understood to mean the stereoisomeric forms, for example D and L forms, of the following compounds: asparagine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamine, glutamic acid, β-alanine, γ-aminobutyrate, N ₈ -acetyllysine, N ₈ -acetylornitin, N _y -acetyldiaminobutyrate, N _a -acetyldiaminobutyrate, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, serine, threonine and tyrosine.

L-amino acids are preferred. Amino acid residues are derived from the corresponding amino acids. The following amino acids are preferred:

Gly, Ala, Thr, Val, β-Ala, γ-aminobutyrate, Asp, Glu, Asn, N ₈ -acetyllysine, N ₈ -acetylornitine, N _y -acetyldiaminobutyrate and N _a -acetyldiaminobutyrate.

The short notation of the amino acids was carried out according to the usual notation. The Dioder tripeptide radicals are acid amides in their chemical nature and decompose on hydrolysis in 2 or 3 amino acids. The amino acids in the di- or tripeptide moiety are linked together by amide bonds.

With regard to the preparation of the di- and tripeptide radicals, reference is expressly made to EP 671 161 A1 of Marbert. Examples of di- and tripeptide radicals can also be found in the disclosure of EP 0 671 161 A1.

Examples of C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups in the compounds according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl. Preferred alkyl groups are methyl and ethyl, methyl is a particularly preferred alkyl group. Preferred C ₂ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups are Groups 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl or 4-hydroxybutyl; 2-hydroxyethyl is a particularly preferred hydroxyalkyl group.

Furthermore, the use of those compounds of formula (I) is favored according to the invention, in which the radical R is the grouping -COOH.

Further, R represented by the general formula (I) is preferably a hydrogen atom.

The use of (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (ectoine) as the compound of the general formula (I) and the physically acceptable salts of this compound is very particularly preferred.

Cosmetic skin treatment agents which can be used according to the invention preferably comprise the 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid and / or derivatives thereof, in particular the compounds of the formula (I) (preferably ectoine) in a total amount of 0.0005 to 10.0% wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 3.0 wt .-% and most preferably 0.01 to 1, 0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition.

As a further obligatory component of the combination of active substances according to the invention, at least one blue-green algae extract must be present in the composition according to the invention.

Blue algae - also called cyanobacteria - are bacteria that lack the nucleus, mitochondria, and chloroplasts. The cell envelope of the blue-green algae consists of a cytoplasmic mambrane surrounded by a murein layer and an outer cell wall of lipopolysaccharides and proteins. Blue-green algae also contain pigments for photosynthesis.

It is preferred according to the invention to use a blue-green extract of blue-green algae of the order Oscillatoriales (according to the taxonomy database of the National Center for Biotechnology Information of the USA) in the compositions according to the invention. It is particularly preferred to use an extract of the blue-green algae of the genus Spirulina. A blue-green algae extract from Spirulina Platensis can be used very particularly preferably within the scope of the invention.

The blue-green extract used according to the invention preferably contains

50 to 70 g of crude protein,

2 to 15 g lipids,

10 to 19 g of carbohydrates,

1 to 9 g minerals (such as magnesium salts)

and other ingredients of blue-green algae or their cleavage products

in each case based on 100 g dry matter of the extract. The extracts of a blue-green algae according to the invention can be obtained by conventional extraction methods.

Cosmetic skin treatment agents which can be used according to the invention preferably contain the blue-green algae extract in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.005 to 1.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the entire composition.

The agent according to the invention contains as optional component of the combination of active substances according to the invention at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide.

The fucose-containing polysaccharides according to the invention therefore necessarily comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (F1)

(F1)

A bond denoted by ^* within a general formula of this application is - unless otherwise defined - a free valency of the structure shown. The bonds marked with ^* according to formula (F1) represent a glycosidic bond to another saccharide residue of the fucose-containing polysaccharide.

According to the invention, the structural units of the formula (F1) are derived from L-fucose and / or from D-fucose. The structural units of the formula (F1) are preferably derived from the L-fucose with formation of the preferred structural units of the formula (F1-1)

(F1-1)

wherein the bonds marked with ^* according to formula (F1-1) represent a glycosidic bond to another saccharide residue of the fucose-containing polysaccharide.

The fucose-containing polysaccharide is preferably anionic. It therefore preferably contains in addition to said fucose structural unit additionally at least one structural unit derived from a uronic acid, in particular of galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid or iduronic acid. Particularly preferably, the additional structural unit is derived from the formula (F2)

wherein the bonds indicated by ^* according to formula (F2) represent a glycosidic bond to another saccharide residue of the fucose-containing polysaccharide.

Furthermore, the fucose-containing polysaccharides according to the invention, in addition to the structural unit derived from fucose, additionally contain at least one structural unit which is derived from galactose. Particularly preferably, the additional galactose structural unit is derived from the formula (F3)

wherein the bonds indicated by ^* according to formula (F3) represent a glycosidic bond to another saccharide residue of the fucose-containing polysaccharide.

An inventively particularly preferred fucose-containing polysaccharide contains at least one previously defined structural unit of the formula (F1-1) and at least one previously defined structural unit of the formula (F2) at least one previously defined structural unit of the formula (F3). A still preferred fucosehaltiges polysaccharide of this embodiment carries the INCI nomenclature Biosaccharide Gum-1 and is marketed, for example, by the company Solabia under the trade name Fucogel 1000 ^® or Fucocert ^®.

Cosmetic skin treatment agents which can be used according to the invention preferably contain the fucose-containing polysaccharide in an amount of 0.0001 to 2.0% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, in each case on the weight of the entire composition.

Particularly preferred cosmetic skin treatment agents are those of the embodiments (A) to (F)

(A): Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, an active ingredient combination of at least one compound of the formula (I) and / or a physiologically tolerable salt and / or an isomeric or stereoisomeric form of these compounds,

in which R is a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group and R 'is a grouping -COOR or a grouping -CO (NH) R ¹ , wherein R is a hydrogen atom, a C-ι - C ₄ alkyl radical, an amino acid residue, a dipeptide or a tripeptide radical, and

at least one blue-green algae extract of blue-green algae of the genus Spirulina, in particular Spirulina platensis, and

optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (F1-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (F2) at least one structural unit of the formula (F3)

wherein the bonds marked with ^* according to formulas (F1-1), (F2) and (F3) for a glycosidic bond to another saccharide residue of the fucose-containing polysaccharide.

(B): Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, a combination of active ingredients, each based on the total weight of the agent

From 0.0005 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, of at least one compound of the formula (I) and / or a physiologically acceptable salt and / or an isomeric or stereoisomeric form of these compounds,

in which R is a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group and R 'is a grouping -COOR ¹ or a grouping -CO (NH) R ¹ , where R is a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl radical, an amino acid radical, a dipeptide radical or a tripeptide radical, and From 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 1.0% by weight, of at least one blue-green algae extract of the genus Spirulina, in particular Spirulina platensis, and

optionally 0.0001 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 1, 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, of at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide containing at least one structural unit of the formula (F1-1 ) and at least one structural unit of the formula (F2) at least one structural unit of the formula (F3)

(C): Cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetic carrier an active ingredient combination of ectoine, and

at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (F1-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (F2) at least one structural unit of the formula (F3)

(D): Cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of active ingredients, each based on the total weight of the agent

From 0.0005 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, of ectoine, and

From 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 1.0% by weight, of at least one blue-green algae extract of the genus Spirulina, in particular Spirulina platensis, and optionally 0.0001 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 1, 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, of at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide containing at least one structural unit of the formula (F1-1 ) and at least one structural unit of the formula (F2) at least one structural unit of the formula (F3)

(E): Cosmetic composition containing a combination of active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier

Ectoin, and

optionally biosaccharides Gum-1 as fucose-containing polysaccharide.

(F): Cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of active ingredients, each based on the total weight of the agent

From 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 1.0% by weight, of at least one blue-green algae extract of the genus Spirulina, in particular Spirulina platensis, and

optionally 0.0001 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 1, 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, biosaccharides Gum-1 as a fucose-containing polysaccharide.

Advantageously, the cosmetic skin treatment agents used according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil or water In-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a single- or multiphase solution, a foam, a powder or a Mixture with at least one suitable as a medical adhesive polymer.

In an embodiment used particularly preferably according to the invention, the skin treatment agents are present as microemulsions. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 Components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") and, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions. During the subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm. In the embodiment as emulsion, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. Suitable emulsifiers are for example adducts of from 4 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂ 2-fatty alcohols, on C ₂ -C ₂ 2 fatty acids and C ₈ -C- | ₅ -alkylphenyls, C ₂ -C ₂ 2 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methylglucoside fatty acid esters, Fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose being preferred as the sugar component, mixtures of alkyl ( oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, e.g. For example, the commercially available products Montanov ^® 68, Montanov ^® 202 or Montanov ^® L, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂ 2 fatty acids Sterols, in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol, and also mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives, preferably polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product) and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI commercial product) as well as linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn - salts ,

The skin treatment agents used according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such emulsifiers are, for example, compounds of the general formula R - O - R ² , in which R is a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group having the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H with x = 1 or 2 and n = 2-4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃ o fatty acids with polyols such. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. B. sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate. Furthermore, an emulsifier system is particularly preferably suitable as a mixture

0.2 to 2.0 wt .-% of at least one salt of a C ₂ -2O-alkyl phosphate, and in particular a salt of cetyl phosphate, as anionic oil-in-water emulsifier,

0, 1 - 1, 7 wt .-% of at least one to C _14. ₂ o-mono- or diacylglycerides, preferably at least one Ci6-i8-mono- or diacylglyceride, particularly preferably selected from hardened palm oil glycerides, can be formulated and stored particularly stable in storage.

The at least one salt of a C ₂ -2O-alkyl phosphate is present in the inventive compositions used in a total amount from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 - 1. 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1, 0 - 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition. Preferred compositions used according to the invention comprise at least one salt of cetyl phosphate in a total amount of 0.2-2.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-1.8% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Further preferred compositions used according to the invention comprise a mixture of dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate in a total amount of 0.2-2.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-1.8% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.1 , 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition. Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. Example, natural and synthetic clays and sheet silicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, where the acidic groups wholly or partly as sodium , Potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt, and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylates, methacrylates, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are NS Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600, Simulgel® ^®, Simulgel® ^® EC and Simulgel® ^® EPG SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C ₃ . _6- carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2 to 20%, if desired, substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C ₁₀ -3o-carboxylic acids, wherein the copolymer can be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold. The skin treatment agents used in the invention preferably contain fatty substances selected from oils, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils , Isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, eg. B. di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl n-octyl ether, fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C ₈ -3o fatty acids, fatty alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms which may be ethoxylated with 1-75, preferably 5-20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3-30, preferably 9-14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, ie esters of C ₆ - _30- fatty acids with C ₂ -3o fatty alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol diol or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. B. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and tri fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, with 1 - 10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, z. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, in particular insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C ₁₆ . ₃ o-fatty acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers which may, if desired, be cross-linked, e.g. As polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes with the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone or Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

The amount used of the fatty substances is 0, 1-50 wt.%, Preferably 0.1-20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0, 1-15 wt.%, Each based on the total skin treatment agent.

Other suitable additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances for adjusting the pH Value, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-Alanindiessigsäure and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ 0, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ and air. Examples

1.0 example recipes

1.1: Night cream

Ectoin 0, 10

Algae Extract from Spirulina Platensis 0.02

Biosaccharides Gum-1 0.02

Rosa Damascena Flower Water 15,00

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 8,00

1, 6-hexanediol 6.00

Glycerin 5.00

Laurus Nobilis Leaf / Stem Water 5.00

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 3.00

Dicaprylyl Carbonate 3.00

Arachidyl alcohol 2.75

Behenyl Alcohol 2.50

Betaine 2,00

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil 2.00

Cocoglycerides 1, 00

Glyceryl Stearate 1, 00

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 1, 00

Panthenol 0.75

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate 0.012

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil 0.50

Bisabolol 0.45

Allantoin 0.20

Copernicia Cerifera Cera 0,50

Magnesium chloride 0.04

Sorbitan Oleate 0.01

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 0.90

Arachidyl glucosides 0.75

Cetearyl alcohol 0.50

Sodium carbomer 0.30

Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzyl malonates 0.40

Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate

Copolymer 0, 10

Polyisobutenes 0, 10

Butylene glycol 0.08

Pentylene glycol 0.03

Caprylyl / caprylic glucoside 0.01

Pantolactone 0.01

2-phenoxyethanol 0.50

(2-ethylhexyl) glycerol 0.20

Sodium benzoate 0.06

Potassium sorbate 0.02

Water ad 100 .2 moisturizing day cream

Ectoin 0, 10

Algae Extract from Spirulina Platensis 0.02

Biosaccharides Gum-1 0.03

Rosa Damascena Flower Water 15,00

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 8.00

1, 6-hexanediol 6.00

Glycerol 4.95

Laurus Nobilis Leaf / Stem Water 4.95

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 3.00

Arachidyl alcohol 2.75

Behenyl Alcohol 2.50

Betaine 2,00

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil 2.00

Cetearyl Isononanoate 2.00

Cocoglycerides 1, 00

Glyceryl Stearate 1, 00

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 1, 00

Panthenol 0.75

Tocopheryl acetate 0.50

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate 0.01

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil 0.45

Bisabolol 0.45

Allantoin 0.20

Magnesium chloride 0.04

Sorbitan Oleate 0.01

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 0.90

Arachidyl glucosides 0.75

Cetearyl alcohol 0.50

Sodium carbomer 0.30

Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzyl malonates 0.40

Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate

Copolymer 0, 10

Polyisobutenes 0, 15

Butylene glycol 0.08

Pentylene glycol 0.05

Caprylyl / caprylic glucoside 0.01

Pantolactone 0.01

Phenoxyethanol 0.50

(2-ethylhexyl) glycerol 0.20

Sodium benzoate 0.06

Potassium sorbate 0.02

Water ad 100 .3 cream

Ectoin 0, 10

Algae Extract from Spirulina Platensis 0.02

Biosaccharides Gum-1 0.03

Rosa Damascena Flower Water 15,00

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 8,00

Glycerol 6,65

1, 6-hexanediol 6.00

Laurus Nobilis Leaf / Stem Water 4,90

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 3.00

Dicaprylyl Carbonate 2.95

Arachidyl alcohol 2.75

Behenyl Alcohol 2.50

Betaine 2,00

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil 2.00

Cocoglycerides 1, 00

Glyceryl Stearate 1, 00

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 0.95

Panthenol 0.75

Tocopheryl acetate 0.50

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate 0.012

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil 0.45

Bisabolol 0.45

Allantoin 0.20

Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax 0.50

Magnesium chloride 0.045

Sodium lactate 0.015

Sorbitan Oleate 0.015

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 0.90

Arachidyl glucosides 0.75

Cetearyl alcohol 0.50

Sodium carbomer 0.40

Bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzyl malonates 0.40

Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer 0, 18

Polyisobutenes 0, 15

Butylene Glycol 0.65

Pentylene Glycol 0.035

Coco-glucoside 0,015

Caprylyl / caprylic glucoside 0.012

Pantolactone 0.01

2-phenoxyethanol 0.55

(2-ethylhexyl) glycerol 0.20

Sodium benzoate 0.06

Potassium sorbate 0.02

Water ad 100

Claims

a t e n t a n s p r e c h e

Cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier an active ingredient combination of at least one compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or derivatives thereof, and

at least one blue-green algae extract, and

optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide.

Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that as the compound of 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid or derivatives thereof at least one compound of the general formula (I) (preferably ectoine) is contained, and or a physiologically acceptable salt and / or an isomeric or stereoisomeric form of these compounds, in which

R is a hydrogen atom or a hydroxy group and R 'is a moiety

-COOR or a grouping -CO (NH) R ¹ , where R is a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl radical, an amino acid radical, a dipeptide or a tripeptide radical.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid and / or derivatives thereof, in particular the compounds of formula (I) (preferred Ectoin) in a total amount of 0.0005 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 3.0 wt .-% and most preferably 0.01 to 1, 0 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the entire composition

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the blue-green extract of blue algae of the order Oscillatoriales (according to taxonomy database of the National Center for Biotechnology Information of the USA), preferably from the blue-green algae of the genus Spirulina, particularly preferably a blue-green algae extract from Spirulina Platensis is from.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the blue-green algae extract in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 3.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 , 0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition is included.

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the fucose-containing polysaccharide contains at least one structural unit of the formula (F1-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (F2) at least one structural unit of the formula (F3)

7. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination of

at least one blue-green algae extract, and

optionally at least one fucose-containing polysaccharide

(especially in the embodiment of any of the cosmetic agents of claims 1 to 6) for stimulating the epidermal synthesis of filaggrin and / or transglutaminicase and / or involucrin.

8. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 7 for the reduction of skin dryness.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 7 for the reduction of skin redness.

10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 7 for reducing the itching of the skin.