EP1576949A1 - Combination of the lipids shea butter and cocoa butter for the treatment of ashen skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsion comprises a combination of shea butter and cocoa butter.

Description

The present invention relates to a combination of shea butter and cocoa butter as well their use.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in man. Although the beauty ideal has undergone changes over time, so is the quest after a flawless appearance always been the goal of the people. An essential Share in a beautiful and attractive appearance has the state and that Appearance of the skin.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many features (for example for thermoregulation and sensory organ) is the barrier function that causes the desiccation of the Organism prevents, probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This is done Barrier function through the epidermis, which as the outermost layer the actual protective cover towards the environment. At about one tenth of the total thickness, it is simultaneously the thinnest layer of the skin.

The skin is exposed to stress due to various exogenous and endogenous factors, which affect their external appearance and their physiological function. One consequence of these impairments is, for example, dehydration of the skin. The The cause of dry skin is usually a lack of moisturizing factors (engl. Moisturizer) in the epidermis. In atopic dry skin additionally plays impaired fatty acid metabolism. An important factor of dry skin is the reduced water binding capacity. This depends on the concentration of natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) in the skin, besides Urea and amino acids play an essential role in epidermal lipids. A lack of Natural moisturizing factors leads to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and finally to the drying of the skin with their typical symptoms such as roughness, Scaling, tightness, cracking, redness or itching. The lack of natural Moisturizing factors can be caused by endogenous factors such as genetic predisposition, Hormonal disorders, diseases or by exogenous factors such as defatting the Skin during skin cleansing or caused by climatic influences.

Dry skin torments an increasing number of patients, especially in winter. In addition to elders People as well as children of lighter skin type are also people with darker skin type disproportionately affected by this condition.

Depending on their origin and descent, different types of skin can be observed in humans, as this organ has adapted to the different environmental influences in the course of evolution. For example, from the field of sun protection, the classification of the skin into the following six pigmentation types with different sensitivity to UV light radiation is known: skin type description description I Skin strikingly pale, pale and prone to freckles; reddish hair; Nipples: very bright; Eyes: green, blue Celtic type II Slightly darker than Type I, rarely freckled; Hair blond to brown; Nipples: bright; Eyes: blue, green, blue Germanic type III Skin light to light brown, no freckles; Hair dark blond, brown; Nipples: darker Dark-skinned European IV Skin brown, olive; no freckles; Hair: dark brown, black, nipples: very dark Mediterranean type V Skin with a deep brown base color Middle Eastern or South American type VI Skin with dark brown to black color African guy

Although obvious in itself, it remained in the cosmetic and dermatological skin care long time largely unnoticed that the different skin types also affect others Environmental influences such as heat, cold, dryness or high humidity vary sensitive. Only recently has this phenomenon been tried with the help of "Ethnic skin care" or "ethnic cosmetics". In the process, they are increasingly moving also the problems of people with skin types IV to VI, especially in temperate ones and cold climates, in the focus of research. But so rich the offer On cosmetics for fair-skinned people, for example, this is the negative Preserve consequences of UV light exposure, so insufficient is the offer for Dark-skinned people, especially their skin from the stresses of cold and to protect dry air.

Dehydration of the skin results in highly pigmented skin to an optical gray coloration the same. Dead, dehydrated dander create a gray haze, which is generally considered to be of little aesthetic value. In the Anglo-Saxon Literature, this phenomenon is known by the term "ashy skin". According to the state of Technique will use this "ash skin" with pure fat creams e.g. treated like Vaseline. However, such products have the disadvantage that they have an intense greasy on the skin Create a skin feeling, give it a shiny unaesthetic appearance and the Cover skin mostly impermeable to air. Also, the ability to moisturize the skin too store extremely limited. Such preparations can be confidently called "Stone Age cosmetics" be designated.

It was therefore the object of the present invention lipid combinations and preparations which eliminate the deficiencies of the prior art and an effective one Prophylaxis, treatment and care of dry or even dry-chapped skin and especially strongly pigmented dry or even dry-chapped skin. The rough, tense skin sensation that occurs on dry skin should be just as effective and be removed for a long time, such as stains, cracks, and dry skin and / or redness of the skin.

• eine kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Wasser-in-Öl-Emulsion enthaltend eine Lipidkombination aus Sheabutter und Kakaobutter.
• die Verwendung einer Lipidkombination aus Sheabutter und Kakaobutter zur Prophylaxe, Behandlung und Pflege von trockener und/oder rissiger Haut, insbesondere von stark pigmentierter trockener und/oder rissiger Haut.
• die Verwendung einer W/O-Emulsion enthaltend eine Lipidkombination aus Sheabutter und Kakaobutter, zur Prophylaxe, Behandlung und Pflege von trockener und/oder rissiger Haut, insbesondere von trockener und/oder rissiger stark pigmentierter Haut.
• die Verwendung einer Lipidkombination aus Sheabutter und Kakaobutter zur Prophylaxe, Behandlung und Pflege des Phänomens der aschenfarbener Haut bei Menschen mit stark pigmentierter Haut.
• die Verwendung einer W/O-Emulsion enthaltend eine Lipidkombination aus Sheabutter und Kakaobutter, zur Prophylaxe, Behandlung und Pflege des Phänomens der aschenfarbener Haut bei Menschen mit stark pigmentierter Haut.

The tasks are solved by surprise

• a cosmetic and / or dermatological water-in-oil emulsion comprising a lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter.
• the use of a lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter for the prophylaxis, treatment and care of dry and / or chapped skin, in particular of highly pigmented dry and / or chapped skin.
• the use of a W / O emulsion comprising a lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter for the prophylaxis, treatment and care of dry and / or chapped skin, in particular of dry and / or chapped, strongly pigmented skin.
• The use of a lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter for the prophylaxis, treatment and care of the phenomenon of ash-colored skin in people with heavily pigmented skin.
• the use of a W / O emulsion containing a lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter for the prophylaxis, treatment and maintenance of the phenomenon of the ash-colored skin in people with highly pigmented skin.

In this case, according to the invention, "strongly pigmented skin" or "dark-skinned" in particular Skin types of category IV-VI understood.

As cocoa butter (cocoa oil, INCI Theobroma Cocoa (Cocoa) Seed, CAS 8002-31-1), cocoa processing refers to yellowish colored cocoa-smelling fat localized in the cacao bean storage cotyledons (50-58%) , Cocoa butter forms six crystal forms with melting points between 17.3 and 36.3 ° C. It consists on average of 25% palmitic acid, 37% stearic acid, 34% oleic acid and 3% linoleic acid. The fatty acid profile is characterized by narrow concentration ranges; only for linoleic acid there are small differences. Among the vitamin E derivatives usually dominates the γ-tocopherol, but its content is subject to very strong fluctuations. Due to the climatic requirements of the kakako plant ( Theobroma cacao L., Sterculiaceae) cocoa is grown exclusively in a narrow belt along the equator. Therefore, three main provenances (Central and South America, West Africa, Southeast Asia / Oceania) can be distinguished, which are also reflected in the chemical composition of cocoa butter. For many of the characteristic properties of cocoa butter, a high content of symmetrical, monounsaturated triglycerides is responsible (Römpp Chemie-Lexikon online, Version 2.2).

Shea butter (INCI Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter), CAS 68920-03-6) is made from the seeds (about 45% fat) of the predominantly West African-based, about 20 m high butter tree Vitellaria paradoxa, [syn. Butyrospermum parkii ], Sapotaceae. It is a tough buttery fat that is relatively stable to oxide. is u. used directly for food purposes in producer countries (eg Sudan). Furthermore, shea butter is used in cosmetics. The most important fatty acids in the triglycerides are: oleic acid 49-50%, stearic acid 36-42%, palmitic acid 5-6% u. Linoleic acid 4-5%. The export quantities amount to approx. 50,000 t / a (Römpp Chemie-Lexikon online, Version 2.2).

According to the invention advantageous water-in-oil emulsions (W / O emulsions) and uses are characterized by containing cocoa butter in an amount of from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based in each case on Total weight of the preparation, included.

According to the invention advantageous water-in-oil emulsions (W / O emulsions) and uses are characterized by containing shea butter in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight, and preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 30.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention advantageous water-in-oil emulsion and uses are also characterized characterized in that the weight ratio of shea butter to cocoa butter in the emulsion from 1: 1 to 1:10.

It is advantageous according to the invention, if as W / O emulsifiers one or more Compounds selected from the group polyglycerol isostearates and ethoxylated W / O emulsifiers the following emulsifiers / emulsifier mixtures are used according to the invention preferred are: triglycerol diisostearate and PEG-40 perisostearate and triglycerol diisostearate and diglycerol polyhydroxystearate.

In accordance with the invention advantageous water-in-oil emulsion and uses are characterized characterized in that the W / O emulsifiers in a total amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, and preferably in a total amount of 0.75 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation in which emulsion is present.

The lipid phase of the emulsion of the invention may contain fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substances contain.

• Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z.B. Rizinusöl, Macadamia-, Avocado- oder Jojobaöl, Dialkylether wie z.B. Di-n-octylether sowie Dialkylcarbonate wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylcarbonat
• Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• Alkylbenzoate;
• Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• Mineral oils, mineral waxes
• Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic, further natural oils such as castor oil, macadamia, avocado or jojoba oil, dialkyl ethers such as di-n-octyl ether and dialkyl carbonates such as di-n-octyl carbonate
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower C-number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• benzoates;
• Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

It can also according to the invention advantageously selected compounds from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, enhalten. Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, Isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, Erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such Esters, e.g. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched Hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be chosen, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, Soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention. It may also be advantageous, waxes, For example, cetyl palmitate to use as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in terms of to use present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or entirely of such oils, although preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils an additional content of other oil phase components to use.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the invention Silicone oil used. But other silicone oils are advantageous in the context of the present Invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageous Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, Propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ethers and analogous products, furthermore lower C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can be chosen advantageously from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be cosmetic Contain excipients as commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, UV light filters, skin bleaching agents, Foaming inhibitors, dyes, pigments containing a coloring matter Have thickening agents, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or others usual constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

In particular, active compound combinations used according to the invention can also be used with others Antioxidants and / or radical scavengers are combined.

Advantageously, such antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters ) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa). , Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, phytin, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), Humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, tocopherols and derivatives (eg Vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and benzylic resin, benzylic acid, rutinic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, sesamol, Sesamolin, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their D derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives which are suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances mentioned.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the additional antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the one or more represent additional antioxidants is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Niacinamide and / or panthenol can also be used according to the invention in the preparations be used.

Compositions according to the invention may also contain active substances which increase the blood flow of the Stimulate the skin and / or have a vasodilatory effect, advantageous are caffeine, B vitamins (pyridoxine and nicotinic acid and its derivatives), camphor, capsaicin.

In addition, selected formulations of the invention are suitable which z. B. known Anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, in particular advantageous for Prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological lesions such as they z. In skin aging (e.g., wrinkles and wrinkles).

If α-glycosylrutin is the antioxidant, it is advantageous whose respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

In the preparations according to the invention, however, other pharmaceutical or Dermatologically active substances such as skin soothing and nourishing Be incorporated substances. These include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, Tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (e.g., hydrocortisone), and plant agents such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as Chamomile, aloe vera, Hamazelis, licorice root.

Moisturizers substances or mixtures of substances which impart to cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property, after the application or distribution on the skin surface, the release of moisture in the horny layer (also called t rans e pidermal w ater l oss (TEWL)) to reduce and / or to positively influence the hydration of the horny layer.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, Lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, Biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble ones and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides to use. Hyaluronic acid, for example, is particularly advantageous. Chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 filed and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available. Moisturizers can be beneficial also as anti-wrinkle active ingredients for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological Skin changes, such as B. occur during skin aging, can be used.

The following moisturizers are particularly preferably used according to the invention:
Glycerin, sorbitol, urea and panthenol.

It is advantageous according to the invention one or more moisturizers in a total concentration from 1 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, in the Use emulsion.

The cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can furthermore advantageous, although not mandatory to contain fillers which z. B. the sensory and further improve cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example create or strengthen a velvety or silky skin feeling. Advantageous fillers in For the purposes of the present invention, starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, Distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenylsuccinate and the like), Pigments which have neither primary UV filter nor coloring action (such as boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as an ointment, cream or lotion. Also, their use is in the form of a spray, e.g. a pump spray According to the invention advantageous, wherein the preparations advantageously also foamed can be. Not least, they can according to the invention advantageous for impregnation of a substrate (e.g., a nonwoven cloth).

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. All quantities, proportions and percentages are, unless stated otherwise, on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations based.

Examples

W / O emulsions, 1 2 3 4 5 Triglycerindiisostearat 1.0 0.5 1.4 2.0 3.0 PEG-40 perisostearate 1.0 1.5 1.75 3.0 2.0 isopropyl palmitate --- 3.0 3.0 5.0 --- paraffin oil 12.5 10.0 8.5 5.0 1.5 vaseline 8.0 6.0 3.0 12.0 2.5 Silicone oil (cyclomethicone) 2.0 1.0 3.0 5.0 0.25 isohexadecane 0.5 0.75 3.0 2.0 0.25 octyldodecanol 0.5 1.0 0.75 3.0 0.25 aluminum stearate 0.4 0.3 0.6 1.0 0.05 dicaprylyl 0.1 0.05 0.15 0.5 1.0 Vitamin E acetate 0.5 0.75 0.5 2.5 0.5 cocoa butter 0.5 1.0 0.5 2.5 25 shea butter 0.5 1.0 0.5 0.25 2.5 magnesium sulfate 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.7 1.0 glycerin 3.0 5.0 5.0 15.0 1.5 lactic acid 0.2 0.1 0.7 0.3 1.0 citric acid 0.1 0.25 0.05 0.1 0.2 sodium lactate 0.2 00:05 1.5 0.3 2.0 Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, Caprylic / capric 2.0 2.5 --- 5.0 --- potassium sorbate 0.04 0.15 0.05 0.03 0.4 lanolin 0.3 0.4 0.1 0.15 --- talc --- --- 0.1 1.0 0.1 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 W / O emulsions, 6 7 8th 9 10 PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate --- 0.5 0.25 --- 3.0 Lanolin Alcohol 1.0 1.5 1.75 3.0 - paraffin oil 12.5 10.0 8.0 5.0 1.5 vaseline 8.0 6.0 5.0 12.0 2.5 hydrogenated coconut glycerides 2.0 1.0 2.5 5.0 0.25 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1.0 2.0 0.25 octyldodecanol 0.5 1.0 0.75 3.0 0.25 aluminum stearate 0.4 0.3 0.6 1.0 0.05 dicaprylyl 0.1 0.05 0.15 0.5 1.0 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5 0.75 1.0 2.5 5.0 cocoa butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 2.5 25 shea butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 0.25 2.5 Microcrystalline cellulose 0.5 1.0 0.75 0.25 0.1 magnesium sulfate 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.7 1.0 glycerin 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1.5 citric acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.3 1.0 Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, 1,3 butylene glycol 2.0 --- 5.0 --- --- Caprylic / capric 2.0 2.5 3.0 5.0 0.5 Natriumdehydracet --- --- 0.05 --- --- potassium sorbate 0.3 0.4 0.25 0.15 --- talc --- --- 0.05 --- 0.1 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 W / S-emulsion 11 12 13 14 15 Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone 1.0 --- - 3.0 5.0 Cylomethicone + PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone (90:10) 10.0 12.5 25 - - cyclomethicone 12.5 15 28.0 25.0 7.5 dimethicone 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 5.0 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1.0 2.0 0.25 octyldodecanol 0.5 1.0 0.75 3.0 0.25 panthenol 0.5 1.0 0.75 0.25 0.1 sodium chloride 2.0 0.6 2.5 0.7 1.0 cocoa butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 2.5 25 shea butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 0.25 2.5 glycerin 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1.5 citric acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.3 1.0 sodium citrate 1.0 0.1 0.4 0.9 2.5 Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, potassium sorbate 0.4 0.1 0.05 0.3 0.4 Microcrystalline cellulose 1.0 0.1 0.5 0.25 0.1 cetyidimethicone 0.5 --- 0.7 --- --- benzyl alcohol --- --- 0.05 --- 0.1 modified starch --- 2.5 --- 0.15 - water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 W / S emulsions 16 17 18 19 20 Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone 1.0 --- - 3.0 5.0 Cylomethicone + PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone (90:10) 10.0 12.5 25 - - cyclomethicone 12.5 15 28.0 25.0 7.5 dimethicone 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 5.0 hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1.0 2.0 0.25 octyldodecanol 0.5 1.0 0.75 3.0 0.25 cocoa butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 2.5 25 shea butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 0.25 2.5 panthenol 0.5 1.0 0.75 0.25 0.1 sodium chloride 2.0 0.6 2.5 0.7 1.0 glycerin 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1.5 lactic acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 --- --- sodium lactate 0.2 1.0 00:05 --- --- Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, Microcrystalline cellulose 1.0 0.1 1.5 2.5 0.1 potassium sorbate 0.3 0.4 0.25 0.15 --- stearyl 0.5 --- 0.7 --- --- dehydroacetic --- --- 0.05 --- 0.1 modified starch --- 2.5 --- 0.15 - water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 W / O emulsions, 21 22 23 24 25 PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer 5.0 1.5 0.25 --- 3.0 PEG-45 dodecyl glycol polymer 1.0 1.5 1.75 3.0 - paraffin oil 12.5 10.0 8.0 5.0 7.5 lsopropylstearat 8.0 6.0 5.0 12.0 2.5 hydrogenated coconut glycerides 2.0 1.0 2.5 5.0 0.25 Evening primrose oil 0.5 0.75 1.0 2.0 0.25 octyldodecanol 0.5 1.0 0.75 3.0 0.25 aluminum stearate 0.4 0.3 0.6 1.0 0.05 cocoa butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 2.5 25 shea butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 0.25 2.5 dicaprylyl 0.1 0.05 0.15 0.5 1.0 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5 0.75 1.0 2.5 5.0 Microcrystalline cellulose 0.5 1.0 0.75 0.25 0.1 magnesium sulfate 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.7 1.0 glycerin 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1.5 sodium citrate 0.2 0.1 --- --- --- citric acid 0.2 0.1 --- --- --- Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, 1,3 butylene glycol 2.0 --- 5.0 --- --- Caprylic / capric 2.0 2.5 3.0 5.0 0.5 potassium sorbate 0.4 0.15 0.05 0.3 0.4 talc 0.3 0.4 0.25 0.15 --- benzyl alcohol --- --- 0.05 --- 0.1 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 W / O emulsions, 26 27 28 29 30 Diglycerindipolyhydroxystearat 3.0 --- 0.25 --- 3.0 Triglycerindiisostearate 1.0 3.5 1.75 2.5 - PEG-40 sorbitan isostearate --- 2.5 0.5 3.5 3.0 paraffin oil 12.5 10.0 8.0 5.0 7.5 lsopropylstearat 8.0 6.0 5.0 12.0 2.5 cocoa butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 2.5 25 shea butter 0.5 1.0 5.0 0.25 2.5 hydrogenated coconut glycerides 2.0 1.0 2.5 5.0 0.25 isopropyl palmitate 0.5 1.0 0.75 3.0 0.25 dicaprylyl 0.1 0.05 0.15 0.5 1.0 hydrogenated castor oil 0.5 0.75 1.0 2.5 5.0 Microcrystalline cellulose 0.5 1.0 0.75 0.25 0.1 magnesium sulfate 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.7 1.0 glycerin 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1.5 citric acid 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.3 1.0 sodium citrate 0.2 0.3 0.2 1.5 0.8 Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, Caprylic / capric 2.0 2.5 3.0 5.0 0.5 potassium sorbate 0.24 0.15 0.05 0.3 0.4 talc --- --- 0.5 --- 0.1 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Claims (10)

Cosmetic and / or dermatological water-in-oil emulsion containing a Lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter. Use of a lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter for prophylaxis, Treatment and care of dry and / or chapped skin, in particular of strong pigmented dry and / or chapped skin. Use of a W / O emulsion containing a lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter, for the prophylaxis, treatment and care of dry and / or cracked Skin, in particular dry and / or chapped, strongly pigmented skin. Use of a lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter for prophylaxis, Treatment and care of the phenomenon of ash-colored skin in humans with heavily pigmented skin. Use of a W / O emulsion containing a lipid combination of shea butter and cocoa butter for the prophylaxis, treatment and care of the phenomenon of ash-colored skin in people with heavily pigmented skin. A water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1 or a use according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that it contains shea butter in an amount of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Water-in-oil emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains cocoa butter in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. A water-in-oil emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of shea butter to cocoa butter in the emulsion is from 1: 1 to 1:10. Water-in-oil emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as W / O emulsifiers one or more compounds selected from the group Polyglycerinisostearate and ethoxylated W / O emulsifiers are used. A water-in-oil emulsion or use according to claim 9, characterized in that the W / O emulsifiers in a total amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, are present in the emulsion.