DE102013219673A1 - Cosmetic use of cosmetic composition comprising extract of Prunella vulgaris, extract of Celosia cristata, hydrolyzed protein, and peptide, which is different from the hydrolyzed protein, for reducing aging signs of the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition comprising (a) 0.0001-2 wt.% at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris. (b) 0.0001-2 wt.% at least one extract of Celosia cristata, (c) 0.0001-2 wt.% at least one hydrolyzed protein, and (d) 0.000001-0.1 wt.% at least one peptide different from the component (c), based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, for reducing aging signs of the skin, is claimed. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. The dermatological activity of the composition was tested on skin models by applying the composition containing (0.0204 wt.% hydrolyzed extract of Prunella vulgaris, 0.0816 wt.% hydrolyzed extract of Celosia cristata, 0.0338 wt.% hydrolyzed protein, 0.000480 wt.% peptide and balance of water) and analyzing elastin gene expression using elastin gene expression analysis. The results showed that the composition exhibited increased elastin gene expression after 6 hrs (2.6). MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition which comprises a combination of an extract of Prunella vulgaris, an extract of Celosia cristata, a hydrolyzed protein and a peptide for the treatment or reduction of aging of the skin.

An important goal of anti-aging cosmetics is the reduction of skin aging and, at best, even the rejuvenation of the skin. In particular, the last point is a particular challenge because the rejuvenating properties to be achieved when using a composition must be linked to particular cellular parameters.

In the aged skin, a progressive transfer of skin cells from a proliferative status to a resting, senescent status occurs. This transition corresponds to aging at the cellular level, to which much of the macroscopic aging effects can be attributed. The number of cells in the tissue decreases and can no longer be filled due to lack of proliferating cells. As a result, no repairs of the surrounding tissue can be performed and defects accumulate, causing the skin to become atrophied and slacken.

Means and treatment methods for treating mature or intrinsically or extrinsically aged or photodamaged skin, especially for anti-wrinkle treatment, are a significant cosmetic challenge. These compositions have a need for ingredients which give the formulations further benefits, be it from an application point of view, from a manufacturing point of view or from the point of view of the consumer, who, for example, develops an improved subjective feeling when using the cosmetic composition due to certain ingredients.

The aging skin is cosmetically treated primarily with vitamin A derivatives or hydroxy acids, which lead to a stimulation of the proliferation of basal cells in the epidermis to a thickening of the epidermis and thus to a smoothing of the skin.

Vitamin A derivatives, also called retinoids, intervene in the metabolism of skin cells and, in addition to stimulating the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes, increase the production of collagen by fibroblasts. In addition, retinol is expected to reduce the formation of collagen-digesting enzymes ( New Scientist 2031, pages 42 to 46, 1996 ). However, retinol has a relatively high phototoxicity and therefore can only be used in low concentrations in compositions for human use. In addition, retinol is readily oxidatively degraded under the action of heat and / or light and is therefore difficult to stabilize in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations over longer storage periods.

Hydroxyacids are often poorly tolerated in the concentrations needed to treat skin aging, particularly for the treatment of sensitive skin and for the treatment of the skin in the eye area.

There is therefore a need for the use of cosmetic compositions which results in effective wrinkle reduction and which prevents skin irritation at low levels due to well-tolerated wrinkle-reducing agents.

It is an object of the present invention to provide the use of a cosmetic composition for reducing the appearance of aging of the skin, which avoids or at least alleviates the disadvantages of the prior art and which results in a reduction of wrinkles. Furthermore, during and / or after the use of the cosmetic composition, skin irritations and / or skin intolerances should be unavoidable.

It has now surprisingly been found that the use of a cosmetic composition containing a combination of an extract of Prunella vulgaris, an extract of Celosia Cristata, a hydrolysed protein and a peptide, the formation of structural proteins, such as elastin, in the upper skin layers Significantly increases over a longer period of time and leads to firmer facial contours due to the high levels of structuring proteins. In addition, the inventive use of the above combination does not lead to skin irritation and / or skin intolerances.

• a) mindestens einen Extrakt der Prunella Vulgaris in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 2 Gew.-%,
• b) mindestens einen Extrakt der Celosia Cristata in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 2 Gew.-%,
• c) mindestens ein hydrolysiertes Protein in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 2 Gew.-%, und
• d) mindestens ein von dem hydrolysierten Protein c) verschiedenes Peptid in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,000001 bis 0,1 Gew.-%,

zur Behandlung bzw. Verminderung von Alterserscheinungen der Haut. A first subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition, containing - based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition -

• a) at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris in a total amount of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%,
• b) at least one extract of Celosia cristata in a total amount of 0.0001 to 2% by weight,
• c) at least one hydrolyzed protein in a total amount of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, and
• d) at least one peptide other than hydrolyzed protein c) in a total amount of 0.000001 to 0.1% by weight,

for the treatment or reduction of signs of aging of the skin.

The use according to the invention of the above-mentioned combination leads to a significantly increased formation of structural proteins, such as elastin, which are of great importance for the shaping of facial skin. Due to the increased formation of structural proteins after the inventive use of the cosmetic composition on the skin, the skin condition is visibly improved due to the higher concentrations of shaping structural proteins. This results from the use according to the invention thus visibly tighter facial contours, which give a younger appearance.

Furthermore, the use of the invention leads to a significant increase in elastin synthesis over a longer period of time, so that the reduction of wrinkles and wrinkles lasts longer and the tighter facial contours can be ensured over a longer period.

In addition, in the inventive use of the cosmetic composition even over prolonged periods of use no skin irritation and / or skin intolerance.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract" is understood as meaning a substance or mixture of substances which has been obtained by extraction. Of these, both dry extracts, i.e. Extracts evaporated to dryness, fluid extracts i. extracts so prepared that from a part of the plant at most 2 parts of fluid extract are recovered and viscous extracts or thick extracts, i. Extracts in which a portion of the solvent has been evaporated comprises. All extracts are suitable according to the invention, but preferably extracts from the plant parts mentioned below are used.

In addition, the term "protein" in the context of the present invention refers to an organic compound which is composed of more than 50 amino acids and can be linear or cyclic. This also includes complexes of organic compounds of more than 50 amino acids, wherein the organic compounds are each connected to each other via hydrogen bonds or disulfide bonds.

Finally, the term "peptide" in the context of the present invention means an organic compound which is obtained by linking up to 50 amino acids via peptide bonds. The individual amino acids are arranged in particular in a defined order (sequence). Within the scope of the invention, both linear and cyclic peptides can be used.

The indication of the total amount in relation to the components of the composition in the present case - unless otherwise stated - refers to the total amount of active substance of the respective component.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris in a total amount of 0.0005 to 1 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.003 to 0.1 wt. %, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.08% by weight, in particular from 0.009 to 0.04% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the at least one extract of Celosia Cristata is present in a total amount of from 0.0005 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.3 wt .-%, in particular from 0.03 to 0.15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.

It may also be provided according to the invention that the at least one hydrolyzed protein in a total amount of 0.0005 to 1 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.003 to 0.3 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 0.06 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the at least one peptide other than the hydrolyzed protein is present in a total amount of from 0.000005 to 0.008% by weight, preferably from 0.00001 to 0.005% by weight, preferably from 0.00005 to 0.003 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.0001 to 0.001 wt .-%, in particular from 0.0002 to 0.0007 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used.

According to the invention, a particularly high increase in the formation of elastin or elastin expression is observed when the components are used in the abovementioned amounts. In particular, the elastin expression can be enhanced over a longer period of time, if according to the invention a composition is used which contains the components in the abovementioned amounts. Due to the enhancement of elastin expression over a longer period of up to 72 h, a particularly high firming of the facial contours is achieved, which also lasts for a longer time. In addition, a significantly increased elastin expression is achieved even with small amounts of the respective components, so that the risk of skin intolerance due to high amounts of active ingredients in the use according to the invention can be avoided.

According to the invention, a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Prunella Vulgaris to the at least one extract of Celosia Cristata of from 1:10 to 1: 0.5, preferably from 1: 8 to 1: 1, preferably from 1: 7 to 1: 2 is preferred , in particular from 1: 5 to 1: 3, used. Particularly good results in terms of increasing elastin expression and thus increasing the level of structuring proteins in the skin are achieved when a cosmetic composition having a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Prunella Vulgaris to the at least one extract of Celosia Cristata of 1: 4 is used.

Furthermore, it can be provided in the context of the invention that a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris to the at least one hydrolyzed protein of 1: 8 to 1: 0.1, preferably from 1: 6 to 1: 0.5, is preferred from 1: 4 to 1: 1, especially from 1: 3 to 1: 2 is used. In particular, a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris to the at least one hydrolyzed protein of 1: 1.7 has proven to be particularly effective in terms of increasing elastin expression in the context of the present invention.

According to another embodiment of the present invention, a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris to the at least one peptide other than the hydrolyzed protein is from 100: 1 to 1: 1, preferably from 80: 1 to 10: 1, preferably from 70: 1 to 20: 1, especially from 50: 1 to 30: 1 used. A particularly high increase in elastin expression was measured when using a cosmetic composition having a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris to the at least one peptide other than the hydrolyzed protein of 43: 1.

Moreover, it can also be provided according to the invention that a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Celosia cristata to the at least one hydrolysed protein is from 10: 1 to 0.1: 1, preferably from 8: 1 to 0.5: 1, preferably from 7: 1 to 1: 1, in particular from 4: 1 to 1.5: 1, is used. Particular preference is given according to the invention to compositions which have a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Celosia cristata to the at least one hydrolyzed protein of 2.4: 1, since using such a composition results in an increase in elastin expression over a longer period of up to 72 h ,

In addition, according to the invention, a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Celosia cristata to the at least one peptide other than the hydrolysed protein of from 300: 1 to 50: 1, preferably from 280: 1 to 80: 1, preferably from 250: 1 to 100, is preferred: 1, in particular from 200: 1 to 150: 1, used. Particularly good results in terms of increasing elastin expression over a period of up to 72 hours are obtained when using, according to the invention, a weight ratio of the at least one Celosia Cristata extract to the at least one peptide other than the hydrolyzed protein of 170 : 1.

Furthermore, it has proved to be advantageous according to the invention if a weight ratio of the at least one hydrolysed protein to the at least one of the hydrolyzed protein different peptide from 150: 1 to 10: 1, preferably from 120: 1 to 20: 1, preferably from 100: 1 to 30: 1, in particular from 80: 1 to 50: 1, is used. In particular, the use according to the invention of compositions which contain a weight ratio of the at least one hydrolysed protein to the at least one peptide other than the abovementioned protein of 70: 1 results in a particularly strong increase in elastin expression over a period of up to 72 hours.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris to the at least one extract of Celosia cristata to the at least one hydrolysed protein to the at least one peptide other than the hydrolysed protein of 80: 300: 100: 5 to 10: 80: 40: 0.1, preferably from 65: 250: 90: 4 to 20: 110: 50: 0.3, preferably from 55: 220: 80: 3 to 30: 130: 55: 0.5, especially from 45: 190: 75: 2 to 35: 150: 60: 1. The elastin expression could be significantly increased over a period of 72 h when using a composition which has a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Prunella Vulgaris to the at least one extract of Celosia Cristata to the at least one hydrolyzed protein to the at least one of the aforementioned protein containing different peptide of 43: 170: 70: 1. Due to the significantly increased elastin expression and thus the significantly increased amount of structuring protein in the skin, especially in the facial skin, results in an improved facial contour and thus a younger appearance.

In the context of the present invention, it may be provided that a hydrolysed extract of the upper plant parts of Prunella vulgaris is used as the extract of Prunella vulgaris. It is also possible within the scope of the invention to use further plant parts of Prunella Vulgaris. However, especially when using a hydrolyzed extract of specific plant parts of Prunella vulgaris in the cosmetic compositions, a beneficial effect on elastin expression results.

In this connection it can be provided that the hydrolyzed extract is obtained by acidic or enzymatic hydrolysis. In the context of the present invention, however, it is also possible to use extracts of prunella vulgaris, which are obtained by hydrolysis processes other than those mentioned above.

Furthermore, it is preferred in this context if the at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris is used as an aqueous-glycolic solution. By using an aqueous glycolic solution, a complete solution of all components of the extract of Prunella vulgaris in the solvent is ensured and ensures easy incorporation and uniform distribution of these active ingredients in the cosmetic composition. Furthermore, the use of a glycol leads to a stabilization of the active ingredients of the extract of Prunella vulgaris, so that a high efficiency is ensured over long periods. For stabilization, glycols having a chain length of from 3 to 10 carbon atoms are preferably used according to the invention, the proportion of glycol in the aqueous-glycolic solution being from 5 to 30% by volume.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the Celosia Cristata extract used is a hydrolyzed extract of the seeds and / or flowers of Celosia Cristata. In the context of the present invention, it is likewise possible to use further plant parts of Celosia Cristata. However, preference is given to using a hydrolyzed extract of special plant parts of Celosia cristata, since its use results in a particularly advantageous effect on elastin expression.

In this connection, it may be provided that the hydrolyzed extract is obtained by acidic or enzymatic hydrolysis. In the context of the present invention, however, extracts of Celosia Cristata can be used, which are obtained by other than the above-mentioned hydrolysis.

Furthermore, it is preferred in this context if the at least one extract of Celosia Cristata is used as an aqueous or aqueous-glycolic solution. The use of an aqueous-glycolic solution of the hydrolyzed extract ensures the complete dissolution of all active ingredients of the extract of Celosia Cristata in the solvent and thus leads to a better incorporability and uniform distribution of the active ingredients in the cosmetic composition. Furthermore, the active ingredients of the extract of Celosia Cristata are effectively stabilized by the use of a glycol, so that their effectiveness is ensured even over long periods. For stabilization, glycols having a chain length of from 3 to 10 carbon atoms are preferably used according to the invention, the proportion of glycol in the aqueous-glycolic solution being from 5 to 30% by volume.

According to the invention, preference is given to using a mixture of hydrolyzed extract of Prunella vulgaris and hydrolyzed extract of Celosia cristata. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mixture" is understood to mean the mixing of the two extracts before addition to the cosmetic composition, ie the extracts are added as a mixture to the cosmetic composition.

In this context, it is furthermore preferred if this mixture of the two aforementioned extracts has a dry matter content in a total amount of 10 to 70 g / l, preferably 15 to 60 g / l, preferably 20 to 50 g / l, in particular 25 to 45 g / L, contains. The use of this total amount of dry matter ensures a significant increase in elastin expression and thus a significant tightening of the facial contours. Furthermore, it is preferred if this mixture is a total sugar content, determined according to the Dubois method ( Dubois M., Gilles KA, Hamilton JK, PA Rebers, F. Smith, Anal. Chem., 1956, Vol. 28, pages 350-356 ), from 3 to 25 g / L, and the total amount of polyphenols expressed in gallic acid is from 0.1 to 0.8 g / L. In addition, it is preferred if this mixture has a pH of from pH 2.5 to pH 6.0. According to the invention can be used mixtures of the foregoing hydrolysed extracts, for example, under the trade name Biosculptine ^® S GR of the company Silab (Silab France, France) available.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrolyzed protein used is a hydrolyzed soya protein having an average molecular weight M _W in the range from 1200 to 1800 daltons, in particular in the range from 1400 to 1700 daltons. The use of hydrolyzed soya proteins having the aforementioned average molecular weights in combination with the other components of the cosmetic composition when used according to the invention leads to a significant increase in elastin expression and thus to a significantly greater amount of structuring proteins in facial skin. This higher amount of structuring proteins results in firmer facial contours and a rejuvenated appearance. The average molecular weight M _W can be determined, for example, by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using polystyrene as an internal standard according to DIN 55672-3 be determined. According to the invention usable hydrolyzed soy proteins, for example, under the trade name Ridulisse ^® C from Silab (Silab France, France) available.

• (i) Reaktionsprodukten von C_2-24-Alkancarbonsäuren mit einem synthetischen Peptid aus zwei oder mehr Aminosäuren, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von Alanin, Arginin, Asparaginsäure, Glycin, Histidin, Lysin, Prolin, Serin, Valin, Tyrosin, Methionin und Phenylalanin;
• (ii) Reaktionsprodukten von C_2-24-Alkancarbonsäuren mit einem synthetischen Peptid aus mindestens vier Aminosäuren, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe von Alanin, Arginin, Asparaginsäure, Glycin, Histidin, Lysin, Prolin, Serin, Valin, Tyrosin, Methionin und Phenylalanin; sowie
• (iii) deren Mischungen

verwendet wird. Die vorgenannten Peptide führen in Kombination mit den weiteren Wirkstoffen der Zusammensetzung bei der erfindungsgemäßen Verwendung zu einer signifikanten Steigerung der Elastinexpression und somit zu einer Straffung der Gesichtshaut. Besonders gute Ergebnisse werden im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung erhalten, wenn eine Mischung aus einem N-acetylierten Tetrapeptid und einem N-acetylierten Tripeptid eingesetzt wird, wobei sich eine Mischung von N-acetylierten Peptiden mit den Aminosäuresequenzen Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg und Gly-His-Lys im Gewichtsverhältnis von 1 : 3 besonders bewährt hat. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention that a peptide other than the hydrolyzed protein is a peptide selected from the group of

• (i) reaction products of C _{2-24 alkanecarboxylic} acids with a synthetic peptide of two or more amino acids selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine, valine, tyrosine, methionine and phenylalanine;
• (ii) reaction products of C _{2-24 alkanecarboxylic} acids with a synthetic peptide of at least four amino acids selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine, valine, tyrosine, methionine and phenylalanine; such as
• (iii) their mixtures

is used. The abovementioned peptides in combination with the other active ingredients of the composition in the use according to the invention lead to a significant increase in elastin expression and thus to a tightening of the facial skin. Particularly good results are obtained in the context of the present invention, when a mixture of an N-acetylated tetrapeptide and an N-acetylated tripeptide is used, wherein a mixture of N-acetylated peptides having the amino acid sequences Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg and Gly -His-Lys in the weight ratio of 1: 3 has proven particularly useful.

The peptides of the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides, which are N-acylated. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit cells of the immune system, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce tissue repair processes, such as collagen synthesis, through the release of growth factors. Also, these amino acid oligomers may be capable of binding to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus releasing active tissue growth factor (TGF-β), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts ,

Preferred N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides according to the invention are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the inventively particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, which is available for example under the name Eyeliss ^® Sederma, but also a component of the product Matrixyl ^® 3000 from the company Sederma represents.

In this context, it is preferred if the aforementioned peptide or the mixture of peptides is free of polyethylene glycols. In particular, it is preferred in the context of the present invention if the peptides are not dissolved in ethylene and / or polyethylene glycol as a solvent.

According to the invention, it may be provided that the cosmetic composition used according to the invention comprises at least one further adjuvant selected from the group of (i) polysaccharides; (ii) kombuchka; (iii) ureas and substituted ureas; (iv) fruit extracts, in particular apple seed extracts; (v) vitamins; (vi) UV filters; (vii) conditioning agents; (viii) surfactants; (ix) thickener; and (x) their mixtures.

Kombuchka is an approximately 0.5 vol .-% alcohol-containing, sour-sour, slightly sour, sparkling, fermentative drink based on mono- or disaccharide-containing tea (black tea, green tea, herbal tea) from East Asia or fruit tea), which is prepared without the addition of preservatives, dyes and flavorings. For reasons of production safety and production stability, industrially manufactured kombuchka is often heat treated.

According to the invention, the term "tea" is understood to mean aqueous infusions of leaves, buds and tender stems of Thea sinensis and Thea assamica, but also of various other plants, for example mint, linden, mallow, red bush, camomile, etc ,

Preferred kombuchka is obtained from mono- or disaccharide-containing tea of fermented (black tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, pu-erh tea) or unfermented (green tea) leaves of thea sinensis (Camellia sinensis) or thea assamica. Further preferred Kombuchka is obtained by fermentation of (usually with sucrose) sugared tea with the symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum. An inventively particularly preferred Kombuchka product is a product which has been obtained by fermentation of sucrose sugared black tea with two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum and, for example, under the INCI name "Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, Glycerol, Hydroxyethylcellulose" with the trade name "Kombuchka" is available as glycerine-containing thickened preparation from the company Sederma.

The substituted urea used according to the invention preferably bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea. However, urea itself is also preferred. It is further preferred to use mixtures of urea and alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds, it being particularly preferred in the context of the present invention when a mixture of urea and bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea is used.

Other preferred excipients according to the invention are apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). According to the invention particularly preferred apple seed extracts of the company Seporga are available under the trade name Ederline ^®. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is available both in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract) and in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). The raw material Ederline ^® in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 1 to 8 wt .-% According to the invention preferred in particular from 3 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used ,

In addition, it can be provided that the cosmetic composition used according to the invention additionally contains at least one vitamin which is selected from at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound called vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, E, H and K and the esters of aforementioned substances.

The vitamin A group or the vitamin A complex include, among others, vitamin A ₁ , trivial name retinol, and the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol (= retinyl ester, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ), retinal and its isomers, all-trans-retinoic acid, 9-cis-retinoic acid and 13-cis-retinoic acid (tretinoin), the esters of retinoic acid and other related substances (synthetic retinoids). Particularly preferred vitamins according to the invention are retinol and the C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of retinol, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) verstanden. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist Nicotinsäureamid, welches in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt, es ist jedoch im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung auch möglich, Derivate des Panthenols, insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole, einzusetzen. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Vitamin B₆ ist in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c), welche als Synonym für den internationalen Freiname von N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu) verwendet wird. Folate bezeichnet den Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, welche einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Erfindungsgemäß verwendete kosmetische Zusammensetzungen enthalten Folsäure bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihre Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß verwendete kosmetische Zusammensetzungen enthalten Orotsäure und/oder Orotate und/oder deren Ester bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung.

Furthermore belong to the vitamin B-group or to the vitamin B-complex among other things

• - Vitamin B ₁ , common name thiamine. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in a total amount of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . For the purposes of the present invention, this term is understood as meaning the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide). Preferred according to the invention is nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used, but it is also possible within the scope of the present invention to use derivatives of panthenol, in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol, and also cationically derivatized panthenols. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are contained in the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Vitamin B ₆ is preferably present in the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably contained in the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• - folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c ), which is synonymous with the international nickname of N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) benzoyl] -L- glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu) is used. Folate refers to the generic term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of substances containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic connected pteridine ring. Cosmetic compositions used according to the invention preferably contain folic acid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline esters or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic compositions used according to the invention contain orotic acid and / or orotate and / or their esters preferably in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In addition, the vitamin E group includes tocopherol, in particular α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably contained in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Furthermore, it can be provided that the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention contain at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "UV filter substances" is understood to mean liquid or crystalline substances at room temperature which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of releasing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, such as heat. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of mixtures of the aforementioned UVA and UVB filters is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarboxylic acid esters and -carbonsäureamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The Benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention. But it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives in pigmentary, ie undissolved form - for example, in particle sizes of 10 nm to 300 nm - are present. Oil-soluble and water-soluble UV filters which are particularly preferred according to the invention are, for example, in the document EP 2 005 941 A2 described.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can also serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UVA filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione prepared (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in different UVB filters. The cosmetic compositions used according to the invention can therefore also be 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UVB filter selected from 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2 ethylhexyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of the UVB filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is from 1: 1 to 10: 1, especially 2: 1 to 8: 1, and the molar ratio of 0.3 to 3.8, especially 0.7 to 3.0. Cosmetic compositions used according to the invention preferably contain the organic UV filter substances in a total amount of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 15% by weight, in particular of 3.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 to 50 nm, in particular from 15 to 30 nm (so-called nanopigments). They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are, in particular, silicones, such as trialkoxyoctylsilanes or dimethicones. Cosmetic compositions used according to the invention contain the inorganic UV filter substances preferably in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 1.0 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In addition, it may be preferred for the purposes of the present invention if the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention also contain at least one conditioning agent. According to the invention, the term "conditioning active ingredients" is to be understood as meaning substances which are absorbed on keratinic materials, in particular on the skin, and improve the physical and sensory properties of both the skin and of the product as such. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. By selecting the conditioning agents (greasy - less greasy, fast or slow spreading, quickly or slowly penetrating into the skin, etc.), the skin feel of the entire product can be adjusted.

• (i) Fettstoffen, insbesondere pflanzlichen Ölen, wie Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und den flüssigen Anteilen des Kokosöls, Lanolin und seinen Derivaten, flüssigen Paraffinölen, Isoparaffinölen und synthetischen Kohlenwasserstoffen, Di-n-alkylethern mit insgesamt 12 bis 36 Kohlenstoffatomen, z. B. Di-n-octylether und n-Hexyl-n-octylether, Carbonsäuren, besonders linearen und/oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten C_8-30-Carbonsäuren, Alkoholen, besonders gesättigten, ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkoholen mit 4 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welche mit 1 bis 75, insbesondere 5 bis 20 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten ethoxyliert und/oder mit 3 bis 30, insbesondere 9 bis 14 Propylenoxid-Einheiten propoxyliert sein können, Esterölen, wie Estern von C_6-30-Carbonsäuren mit C_2-30–Alkoholen, Hydroxycarbonsäurealkylestern, Dicarbonsäureestern, wie Di-n-butyladipat, sowie Diolestern, wie Ethylenglykoldioleat oder Propylenglykoldi(2-ethylhexanoat), symmetrischen, unsymmetrischen oder cyclischen Estern der Kohlensäure mit Alkoholen, z. B. Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC), Mono,- Di- und Tricarbonsäureestern von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Carbonsäuren mit Glycerin, welche mit 1 bis 10, insbesondere 7 bis 9 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten ethoxyliert sein können, z. B. PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate;
• (ii) Wachsen, insbesondere Insektenwachsen, Pflanzenwachsen, Fruchtwachsen, Ozokerit, Mikrowachsen, Ceresin, Paraffinwachsen, Triglyceriden gesättigter und gegebenenfalls hydroxylierter C_16-30-Carbonsäuren, z. B. gehärteten Triglyceridfetten, Phospholipiden, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephalinen;
• (iii) Siliconverbindungen, ausgewählt aus Decamethylcyclopentasiloxan, Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan und Siliconpolymeren, welche gegebenenfalls quervernetzt sein können, z. B. Polydialkylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, ethoxylierten und/oder propoxylierten Polydialkylsiloxanen mit der früheren INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone Copolyol, sowie Polydialkylsiloxanen, welche Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten, bevorzugt Substanzen mit den INCI-Bezeichnungen Dimethiconol, Amodimethicone oder Trimethylsilylamodimethicone; sowie
• (iv) deren Mischungen.

Conditioning agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from

• (i) fatty substances, especially vegetable oils such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, for. B. di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl n-octyl ether, carboxylic acids, particularly linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 carboxylic acids, alcohols, particularly saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be ethoxylated with 1 to 75, in particular 5 to 20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3 to 30, in particular 9 to 14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, such as esters of C _6-30 Carboxylic acids with C _2-30 alcohols, hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl esters, dicarboxylic acid esters, such as di-n-butyl adipate, and diol esters, such as ethylene glycol dioleate or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with alcohols, eg. B. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and tricarboxylic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched carboxylic acids with glycerol, which may be ethoxylated with 1 to 10, especially 7 to 9 ethylene oxide units, z. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate;
• (ii) growing, in particular insect waxes, plant waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 - Carboxylic acids, eg. Hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins;
• (iii) silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers, which may optionally be crosslinked, e.g. B. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes with the earlier INCI name dimethicone copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances with the INCI names dimethiconol, amodimethicone or trimethylsilylamodimethicone; such as
• (iv) their mixtures.

The total amount of the conditioning active ingredients in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention is 0.1 to 99 wt .-%, preferably from 2 to 50 wt .-%, in particular from 5 to 20 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention may contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. The use of a surface-active substance is particularly preferred when the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention are in the form of emulsions or dispersions.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare C₈-C₂₂-Alkohole, an C₁₂-C₂₂-Carbonsäuren und an C₈-C₁₅-Alkylphenole,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Carbonsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an C₃-C₆-Polyole, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Carbonsäureester, Carbonsäurealkanolamide und Carbonsäureglucamide, C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Alkoholen, z. B. das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^® 68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten C₈-C₂₂-Carbonsäuren,
• – Sterole (Sterine), insbesondere Cholesterol, Lanosterol, Beta-Sitosterol, Stigmasterol, Campesterol und Ergosterol sowie Mykosterole, Phospholipide, vor allem Glucose-Phospolipide,
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen wie Sorbit, Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate, bevorzugt Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH) und Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearat (Handelsprodukt Lameform^® TGI) sowie
• – lineare und verzweigte C₈-C₃₀-Carbonsäuren und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example

• Addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alcohols, on C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carboxylic acids and on C ₈ -C ₁₅ -alkylphenols,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carboxylic acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methylglucoside carboxylic acid esters, carboxylic acid alkanolamides and carboxylic acid glucamides, C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component,
• - Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and alcohols, eg. As the commercially available product Montanov ^® 68,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ -carboxylic acids,
• Sterols, in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol and mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids,
• - fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives, preferably polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (commercial product Lameform ^® TGI) and
• - linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

However, surface-active substances in the form of nonionic emulsifiers with HLB values of 8 and below may also be present in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention. Such preferred emulsifiers are in particular compounds of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably a behenyl radical, and R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a group of the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where x = 1 or 2 and n = 2 to 4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4 to 6 carbon atoms and 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups, preferably hydrogen. A particularly preferred compound R ¹ -OR ² is behenyl alcohol. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are, for example, sorbitan monobehenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate. The presence of emulsifiers of the general formula R ¹ -OR ² can lead to lamellar structures in the emulsion, which in the inventive use can have particularly favorable effects on the restoration of the lamellar structure of the skin.

The cosmetic compositions used according to the invention preferably contain the surface-active substances in a total amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

• – natürliche und synthetische Tone und Schichtsilikate, wie Bentonit, Hectorit, Montmorillonit oder Laponite^®,
• – anionische Polymere aus Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure, Crotonsäure, Maleinsäureanhydrid und 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure, wobei die sauren Gruppen ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium-, Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegen können und wobei mindestens ein nichtionisches Monomer enthalten sein kann. Bevorzugte nichtionogene Monomere sind Acrylamid, Methacrylamid, Acrylsäureester, Methacrylsäureester, Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylether und Vinylester. Bevorzugte anionische Copolymere sind Acrylsäure-Acrylamid-Copolymere sowie insbesondere Polyacrylamidcopolymere mit Sulfonsäuregruppen-haltigen Monomeren. Diese Copolymere können auch vernetzt vorliegen. Geeignete Handelsprodukte sind Sepigel^®305, Simulgel^®600, Simulgel^®NS und Simulgel^®EG der Firma SEPPIC. Weitere besonders bevorzugte anionische Homo- und Copolymere sind unvernetzte und vernetzte Polyacrylsäuren. Solche Verbindungen sind zum Beispiel die Handelsprodukte Carbopol^®. Ein besonders bevorzugtes anionisches Copolymer enthält als Monomer 80 bis 98 % einer ungesättigten, gegebenenfalls substituierten C_3-6-Carbonsäure oder ihres Anhydrids sowie 2 bis 20 % eines gegebenenfalls substituierten Acrylsäureesters von gesättigten C_10-30-Carbonsäuren, wobei das Copolymer mit den vorgenannten Vernetzungsagentien vernetzt sein kann. Entsprechende Handelsprodukte sind Pemulen^® und die Carbopol^®-Typen 954, 980, 1342 und ETD 2020 (ex B.F. Goodrich).
• – Geeignete nichtionische Polymere sind beispielsweise Polyvinylalkohole, welche teilverseift sein können, z. B. die Handelsprodukte Mowiol^® sowie Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere und Polyvinylpyrrolidone, die z. B. unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.

Further suitable additives in the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention are thickeners, such as

• - natural and synthetic clays and layered silicates, such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^®,
• Anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the acidic groups may be wholly or partially present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt and at least one nonionic Monomer may be included. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. These copolymers can also be present in crosslinked form. Suitable commercial products are NS Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600 ^® and Simulgel® Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80 to 98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2 to 20% of an optionally substituted acrylic acid ester of saturated C _10-30 carboxylic acids, said copolymer having the abovementioned Networking agents can be networked. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).
• Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example, polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, e.g. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold.

Further preferred additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring of the cosmetic composition substances for adjusting the pH Value, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition used according to the invention is a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, Nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, hydrogel, lipogel, mono- or multiphase solution, foam, powder or used in a mixture with at least one polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. However, within the scope of the present invention, it is also possible to prepare the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention in anhydrous form, such as, for example, an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.

Preferably, the cosmetic agents are used in the form of a microemulsion. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions form in a certain temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT"), which convert to water-in-oil emulsions upon further heating. During the subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, which, however, are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having a mean particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100 to 300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.

In the context of the present invention, it is particularly preferred for the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention to be used in the form of a lamellar structure oil-in-water emulsion. It is also possible within the scope of the present invention to use the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion. Such water-in-oil emulsions can be formulated to have a higher viscosity and to be massaged into the skin. However, low-viscous water-in-oil emulsions can be formulated just as well, in particular based on the polymeric water-in-oil emulsifier PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Arlacel P 135 from Uniqema ,

According to the invention, the cosmetic composition used according to the invention is preferably in the form of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation.

In this context, it may in particular be provided that the cosmetic composition is selected from skin care products, in particular skin creams.

The following examples illustrate the present invention without, however, limiting it to:

Examples:

The reduction of aging of the skin due to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention was determined by determination of elastin expression in phenion full-skin models. Furthermore, the skin compatibility during the use according to the invention was tested on 100 subjects aged 35 to 50 years.

1. Compositions used:

For this purpose, the following compositions were prepared, wherein the amounts in the table relate to wt .-% of the active substance content:

2. Preparation of Phenion Full Skin Models:

Neonatal fibroblasts and human foreskin keratinocytes were isolated to produce the full-thickness skin models. The fibroblasts were first sown in a matrix of stabilized collagen and cultivated for colonization over a period of 14 days. The keratinocytes grew after sowing on the fibroblast-covered dermis construct for another 2 days before transfer to the ALI (air-liquid-interface) phase. Over a period of 11 days developed a differentiated and surface keratinized epidermis.

3. Elastin gene expression analysis

The test substances V1, V2, V3 and E1 were applied to the epidermis of the models (30 μl of the respective composition) and evenly distributed with a brush. After application, the models were incubated at 37 ° C and 5% CO ₂ for 6 and 72 hours, respectively.

The gene expression of elastin in the full-skin models treated with the compositions V1, V2, V3 and E1 was investigated by means of a quantitative real-time PCR. To carry out the PCR, the RNA was first isolated from the full-skin models using the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which was carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective markers and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products was detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of PCR product formed, d. H. the stronger the expression of the elastin gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.

For quantification of gene expression, the fluorescence signal of the PCR products of the untreated control was set to 1 and the fluorescence of the PCR products in the samples treated with the compositions V1, V2, V3 and E1 related thereto (x-fold expression). Values which are greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression of the untreated control can be regarded as significant.

The results of elastin expression after 6 h and 72 h are listed in the following table:

A significant increase in elastin expression was observed in the treatment of full-skin models with composition V2 (hydrolyzed protein) and composition V3 (peptide) after 6 hours. However, elastin expression for composition V3 (peptide) decreases sharply after 72 hours. On the other hand, for composition V1 (mixture of hydrolyzed extracts of Prunella vulgaris and Celosia cristata), no increase in elastin expression is found compared to the untreated full skin model.

In the case of the use according to the invention of the composition E1, a significantly improved elastin expression is determined after 6 h compared with the compositions V2 and V3, which again increases significantly after 72 h. Due to the significantly higher amount of structuring elastin in the full-skin models treated with the composition E1, the use according to the invention achieves a significantly tighter skin contour than with the non-inventive use of the compositions V1, V2 and V3.

4. Histology for the detection of elastin in full-thickness models

For the detection of elastin in the full-skin models, cryosections were prepared both from the untreated and from the full skin models treated with the compositions V1, V2, V3 and E1 and stained by means of indirect immunofluorescence. For this purpose, the sections were labeled with the primary antibody anti-elastin (Novotec) and with the corresponding secondary antibody (Alexa 568 goat anti-rabbit, Fa. Molecular Probe) and then determined the fluorescence of the antibodies used for labeling.

The obtained immunohistological images confirm the values determined for elastin expression. Also in the staining of elastin in the treated full-skin models, the greatest increase in elastin expression was determined in the inventive use of the composition E1.

5. Skin compatibility during the use according to the invention

The skin compatibility during the use according to the invention of the composition E1 was tested during and after the application on 100 test persons aged 30 to 50 years, whereby the subjects applied the composition E1 over a period of 4 weeks in each case morning and evening and evaluated the skin compatibility , 89% of the test persons were satisfied or very satisfied with the compatibility after the use according to the invention. Consequently, the use according to the invention of the composition E1 results in a good skin compatibility with at the same time significant tightening of the facial skin.

6. Formulation Examples of Inventive Usable Cosmetic Compositions

All amounts are given in wt .-% of the respective raw material, based on the total composition.

6.1. Oil-in-water emulsions

Hautcremes: 5 6 7 Cetearyl Isononanoate 4,00 4,00 4,00 Mineral oil 6,00 6,00 6,00 Cutina CBS 2,00 2,00 2,00 Palmitic Acid/Stearic Acid 1,50 1,50 1,50 Eumulgin B3 1,00 1,00 1,00 Baysilone-Öl M 350 1,00 1,00 1,00 Tocopheryl Acetate 0,50 0,50 0,50 Propylparaben 0,30 0,30 0,30 Pemulen TR 1 0,27 0,27 0,27 Glycerin 5,00 3,00 3,00 Milchsäure 80 % 0,26 0,26 0,26 Propylenglycol 5,00 5,00 5,00 Methylparaben 0,30 0,30 0,30 Phenoxyethanol 0,90 0,90 0,90 Phytokine 2,00 1,50 2,00 Ridulisse C 0,50 0,50 0,50 Liftiline 2,00 3,00 2,00 Sepigel 305 0,50 0,50 0,50 Biosculptine S GR 3,00 2,50 3,50 Matrixyl 3000 3,00 2,50 3,00 Taurin 1,00 0,50 2,00 Calmosensine 1,00 2,00 - Keltrol SF 0,20 0,20 0,20 N,N-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)harnstoff 4,30 2,50 8,60 Perfume 0,30 0,30 0,30 Natrium Ascorbylphosphat 1,00 - 1,00 Keratec Pep - 2,00 - Kreatin - - 1,00 Retinol 0,10 - - Deliner - 2,00 - Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Tagescremes für anspruchsvolle Haut:

Pflegecremes mit gel-ähnlicher Konsistenz:

Tagescremes mit höherem Lichtschutzfilter (SPF ca. 10 – 15):

Day creams for normal skin:

Skin creams: 5 6 7 Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.00 4.00 4.00 Mineral oil 6.00 6.00 6.00 Cutina CBS 2.00 2.00 2.00 Palmitic Acid / Stearic Acid 1.50 1.50 1.50 Eumulgin B3 1.00 1.00 1.00 Baysilone oil M 350 1.00 1.00 1.00 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 Pemulen TR 1 0.27 0.27 0.27 glycerin 5.00 3.00 3.00 Lactic Acid 80% 0.26 0.26 0.26 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 methylparaben 0.30 0.30 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.90 0.90 0.90 Phytokine 2.00 1.50 2.00 Ridulisse C 0.50 0.50 0.50 Liftiline 2.00 3.00 2.00 Sepigel 305 0.50 0.50 0.50 Biosculptine S GR 3.00 2.50 3.50 Matrixyl 3000 3.00 2.50 3.00 taurine 1.00 0.50 2.00 Calmosensine 1.00 2.00 - Keltrol SF 0.20 0.20 0.20 N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea 4.30 2.50 8.60 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 1.00 - 1.00 Keratec Pep - 2.00 - creatine - - 1.00 retinol 0.10 - - deliner - 2.00 - water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Day creams for demanding skin:

Care creams with gel-like consistency:

Day creams with higher sun protection filter (SPF approx. 10 - 15):

6.2 Water-in-oil emulsion

Nachtcreme: 31 Montanov 68 3,00 Capryl-/Caprinsäure-Triglycerid 2,00 Cetiol SN 8,00 Safloröl raffiniert 3,50 Cetearyl Alcohol 2,50 Cutina MD 1,70 Behenylalkohol 3,00 Cetiol SB 45 4,00 NOVATA AB PH 0,50 Silikonöl 350 cs 2,50 Controx KS 0,050 Propylparaben 0,20 Glycerin 86% 9,00 Hexandiol-1,6 6,00 Methylparaben 0,20 Tego Carbomer 140 0,30 Biosculptine S GR 3,00 Ultrasomes 0,10 Ridulisse C 0,50 Matrixyl 3000 3,00 Parfum 0,10 FD&C Yellow No. 6 0,00070 Aluminiumstärkeoctenylsuccinat 1,80 Simulgel EPG 0,40 Natriumhydroxid 0,031 Aqua ad 100 Hautcremes auf Basis einer Lipoprotein-Creme

Reinigungsgele: 38 39 40 Tego Carbomer 140 1,40 1,40 1,40 1,3-Butylenglycol 4,00 4,00 4,00 Sodium Benzoate 0,40 0,40 0,40 Plantaren^®1200 7,50 7,50 7,50 Dehyton^® K 3,40 3,40 3,40 Texapon^® SB 3 5,00 5,00 5,00 Cetiol^® HE 0,50 0,50 0,50 Lamesoft^® PO 65 5,00 5,00 5,00 Controx KS 0,05 0,05 0,05 Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 1,60 1,60 - Pantolactone 1,00 1,00 - Tetrasodium EDTA 0,25 0,25 0,25 Sodium Lactate 1,80 Panthenol 0,50 0,50 0,50 Biosculptine S GR 3,00 2,50 2,00 Ridulisse C 0,50 0,50 0,50 Matrixyl 3000 3,00 2,50 2,00 Carnitin 0,20 - 0,20 Perfume 0,40 0,40 0,40 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Liste der vervendetan Rohstoffe

Creams based on water-in-silicone emulsion: 24 25 26 Belsil DM 100 2.50 2.50 2.50 Dow Corning 245 Fluid 25.0 25.0 25.0 Abil EM 90 2.00 2.00 2.00 sodium chloride 2.00 2.00 2.00 Symdiol 68 0.30 0.30 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 0.40 Biosculptine S GR 3.00 2.50 3.50 Ridulisse C 3.00 2.50 3.50 Matrixyl 3000 3.00 2.50 3.50 Rhamnosoft 2.00 - - Hydro Vance - 3.00 - folic acid - - 0.10 Perfume 0.30 0.30 0.30 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Day creams for particularly demanding skin:

Night Cream: 31 Montanov 68 3.00 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 2.00 Cetiol SN 8.00 Refined safflower oil 3.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50 Cutina MD 1.70 behenyl 3.00 Cetiol SB 45 4.00 NOVATA FROM PH 0.50 Silicone oil 350 cs 2.50 Controx KS 0,050 Propylparaben 0.20 Glycerin 86% 9.00 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 methylparaben 0.20 Tego Carbomer 140 0.30 Biosculptine S GR 3.00 Ultrasomes 0.10 Ridulisse C 0.50 Matrixyl 3000 3.00 Perfume 0.10 FD & C Yellow No. 6 0.00070 aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 1.80 Simulgel EPG 0.40 sodium hydroxide 0.031 Aqua ad 100 Skin creams based on a lipoprotein cream

cleaning gels: 38 39 40 Tego Carbomer 140 1.40 1.40 1.40 1,3-butylene glycol 4.00 4.00 4.00 Sodium benzoate 0.40 0.40 0.40 Plantar ^® 1200 7.50 7.50 7.50 Dehyton ^® K 3.40 3.40 3.40 Texapon.RTM ^® SB 3 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cetiol ^® HE 0.50 0.50 0.50 Lamesoft ^® PO 65 5.00 5.00 5.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 1.60 1.60 - Pantolactone 1.00 1.00 - Tetrasodium EDTA 0.25 0.25 0.25 Sodium lactate 1.80 panthenol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Biosculptine S GR 3.00 2.50 2.00 Ridulisse C 0.50 0.50 0.50 Matrixyl 3000 3.00 2.50 2.00 carnitine 0.20 - 0.20 Perfume 0.40 0.40 0.40 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 List of used raw materials

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• EP 2005941 A2 [0055]

Cited non-patent literature

• New Scientist 2031, pages 42-46 , 1996 [0006]
• Dubois M., Gilles KA, Hamilton JK, PA Rebers, F. Smith, Anal. Chem., 1956, Vol. 28, pp. 350-356 [0038]
• DIN 55672-3 [0039]

Claims (10)

Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition containing - based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition - a) at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris in a total amount of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, b) at least one extract of Celosia cristata in a total amount of 0.0001 to 2% by weight, c) at least one hydrolyzed protein in a total amount of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, and d) at least one peptide other than hydrolyzed protein c) in a total amount of 0.000001 to 0.1% by weight, for the reduction of aging signs of the skin.  Cosmetic use according to claim 1, wherein the at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris in a total amount of 0.0005 to 1 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.003 to 0.1 wt. %, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.08 wt .-%, in particular from 0.009 to 0.04 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.  Cosmetic use according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the at least one extract of Celosia Cristata in a total amount of 0.0005 to 1.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0, 5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.3 wt .-%, in particular from 0.03 to 0.15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.  Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one hydrolyzed protein in a total amount of 0.0005 to 1 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.003 to 0.3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 0.06 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.  Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one peptide other than the hydrolyzed protein is present in a total amount of from 0.000005 to 0.008% by weight, preferably from 0.00001 to 0.005% by weight, preferably from 0.00005 to 0.003 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.0001 to 0.001 wt .-%, in particular from 0.0002 to 0.0007 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.  A cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein a weight ratio of the at least one extract of Prunella vulgaris to the at least one extract of Celosia cristata to the at least one hydrolyzed protein to the at least one peptide other than the hydrolysed protein of 80: 300: 100: 5 to 10: 80: 40: 0.1, preferably from 65: 250: 90: 4 to 20: 110: 50: 0.3, preferably from 55: 220: 80: 3 to 30: 130: 55: 0.5 , in particular from 45: 190: 75: 2 to 35: 150: 60: 1, is used.  Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein a hydrolysed extract of the upper plant parts of Prunella vulgaris is used as the extract of Prunella vulgaris.  Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Celosia Cristata extract used is a hydrolyzed extract of the seeds and / or flowers of Celosia Cristata. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrolyzed protein used is a hydrolyzed soya protein having an average molecular weight M _W in the range from 1200 to 1800 daltons, in particular in the range from 1400 to 1700 daltons. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein as a peptide other than the hydrolyzed protein a peptide selected from the group of (i) reaction products of C _2-24 alkanecarboxylic acids with a synthetic peptide of two or more amino acids selected from the group of Alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine, valine, tyrosine, methionine and phenylalanine; (ii) reaction products of C _{2-24 alkanecarboxylic} acids with a synthetic peptide of at least four amino acids selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine, valine, tyrosine, methionine and phenylalanine; and (iii) mixtures thereof is used.