WO2013068962A2 - Acide gras monoinsaturé pour le soin des ongles - Google Patents

Acide gras monoinsaturé pour le soin des ongles Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2013068962A2
WO2013068962A2 PCT/IB2012/056264 IB2012056264W WO2013068962A2 WO 2013068962 A2 WO2013068962 A2 WO 2013068962A2 IB 2012056264 W IB2012056264 W IB 2012056264W WO 2013068962 A2 WO2013068962 A2 WO 2013068962A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
nails
fatty acid
monounsaturated fatty
oil
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2012/056264
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2013068962A3 (fr
Inventor
Audrey Gueniche
Isabelle Castiel
Cristina Cruz-Hernandez
Marjorie Marie-Carmen GUITARD
Frédéric DESTAILLATS
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2013068962A2 publication Critical patent/WO2013068962A2/fr
Publication of WO2013068962A3 publication Critical patent/WO2013068962A3/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetic and/or dermatological nailcare products.
  • the present invention proposes the use of a novel active agent for treating and/or preventing esthetic defects, and/or for reinforcing and/or improving the growth, solidity or hardness of the nails.
  • the present invention also relates to a nailcare process, in particular for treating and/or preventing esthetic defects of the nails, and/or for reinforcing and/or improving the growth, solidity or hardness of the nails.
  • a nail or ungual plaque is a flexible, translucent horny blade which forms a surface excrescence of the skin, consisting of keratinocytes and a very dense and homogeneous keratin matrix. This matrix keeps the cells welded together and gives the nail its strength, hardness, solidity and flexibility.
  • the nail is enveloped by an epidermal sheath, or matrix. It is at this level that the formation of the cells giving rise to the nail takes place.
  • a healthy nail grows on average by 0.10 mm per day. Its growth is continual.
  • a nail consists of a dorsal part, an intermediate part, a ventral part, a proximal matrix, an intermediate matrix, a lunula and the nail bed. 80% of the thickness of a nail is produced by the proximal matrix, and 20% of its thickness is produced by the intermediate matrix and the nail bed.
  • the dorsal part consists of hard keratin
  • the intermediate part is the thickest and is formed of moderately hard keratin
  • the ventral part consists of soft keratin.
  • a nail contains water, lipids, mucopolysaccharides and minerals, such as sodium, potassium, iron, calcium, zinc or silicon.
  • the hardness and flexibility of nails depends especially on the orientation of the keratin fibres, the arrangement of the keratinocytes and their cohesion and chemical constitution, in particular the content of water, lipids and phospholipids.
  • extrinsic factors that are liable to affect the nails mention may be made of exposure to sunlight, exposure to temperature and/or humidity variations, and exposure to pollutants or to cigarette smoke.
  • intrinsic factors affecting the nails mention may be made of stress, fatigue, hormonal changes, dehydration, a metabolic deficit, aging or certain pathologies.
  • the main solutions proposed in the field of nailcare are based on the use of nail varnishes, of moisturizing active agents in handcare products, or of chemical reinforcement of the nail.
  • the latter solution is based on the use of nail-hardening agents, such as formaldehyde at 1-2%, which generate crossbonds in the keratin.
  • nail-hardening agents such as formaldehyde at 1-2%
  • the object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs.
  • the present invention relates to a topical cosmetic use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, a salt thereof and/or an ester thereof, as a nailcare active agent.
  • Monounsaturated fatty acids have been described for various applications, such as the moisturization of dry skin in EP 0 709 084 or the treatment of dandruff and itchy scalps in EP O 116 439.
  • an individual treated according to the invention may advantageously observe a reduction in, or even disappearance of, his nails' impairments.
  • the nails become harder, less brittle, more flexible, more resistant to impacts, and have a smooth, translucent appearance and a uniform color and tint.
  • these fatty acids make it possible to overcome the lipid deficiencies induced by the various forms of external attack, and especially by exposure to water, to soap or to various detergents, since they tend toward reproducing the natural lipids of the nails.
  • the invention makes it possible to reinforce the nails and to improve their esthetic appearance.
  • a subject of the present invention is a topical cosmetic treatment process for nailcare, in the case of an individual in need thereof, comprising at least one step of administering to said individual, as an active agent, at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, a salt thereof and/or an ester thereof.
  • the present invention advantageously makes it possible to prevent or treat nail imperfections.
  • the invention advantageously makes it possible to prevent and/or treat brittle, fragile, soft, split or cracked nails.
  • the invention advantageously makes it possible to prevent and/or treat nails having a striated surface appearance, or to reduce the presence or depth of the nail striations, or to improve the smooth surface appearance of the nails.
  • a use in accordance with the invention advantageously makes it possible to prevent and/or treat a nonuniform color or tint or a dull appearance of the nails, or even to improve or reinforce a white color or tint of the nails.
  • a monounsaturated fatty acid according to the invention is necessarily used in an effective amount, i.e. an amount that enables the fatty acid to manifest its active properties with regard to the care to be afforded to the nails.
  • the term "prevent” means reducing to a lesser extent the risk or probability of manifestation of a given phenomenon, i.e. in the present invention impairment of the nails.
  • the term "monounsaturated fatty acid” means a fatty acid whose hydrocarbon-based chain comprises only one double bond, and which is in a free form.
  • the monounsaturated fatty acids that are suitable for use in the invention are especially monounsaturated fatty acids comprising a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the monounsaturated fatty acids that are suitable for use in the invention may be used in acid form or in salt form, or alternatively in the form of derivatives, especially fatty acid esters and amides.
  • the monounsaturated fatty acids of the invention are more particularly cosmetically acceptable salts, i.e. inorganic salts, such as ammonium salts, salts of alkali metals such as lithium, potassium or sodium, salts of alkaline- earth metals such as magnesium or calcium, or aluminum salts.
  • inorganic salts such as ammonium salts, salts of alkali metals such as lithium, potassium or sodium, salts of alkaline- earth metals such as magnesium or calcium, or aluminum salts.
  • the monounsaturated fatty acids that are suitable for use in the invention may be in the form of calcium salts.
  • the monounsaturated fatty acids of the invention may be esterified with glycerol in mono-, di- or triacyl form, with an alcohol such as methyl and ethyl alcohols, with a sugar, especially a monosaccharide or a disaccharide, a tocopherol, a tocotrienol, a sterol, such as cholesterol or a phytosterol such as ⁇ -sitosterol, or with a fatty acid, especially a Cg to Ci 8 fatty acid.
  • an alcohol such as methyl and ethyl alcohols
  • a sugar especially a monosaccharide or a disaccharide, a tocopherol, a tocotrienol, a sterol, such as cholesterol or a phytosterol such as ⁇ -sitosterol, or with a fatty acid, especially a Cg to Ci 8 fatty acid.
  • the monounsaturated fatty acid of the invention, the salt thereof and/or the ester thereof, may be used topically in a composition in a content ranging from 0.0001 % to 90%> by weight, especially from 0.01 % to 50%> by weight, or even from 0.1 % to 20%, or even from 0.1 %) to 10%), in particular from 1 % to 10%o, or even from 2%o to 10%o by weight relative to the total weight of a composition containing it.
  • a monounsaturated fatty acid of the invention may be administered topically, and may be formulated in any galenical form that is suitable for this type of administration. Such galenical forms, and the use thereof, are known to those skilled in the art and do not need to be detailed herein.
  • a monounsaturated fatty acid of the invention may be used in a nail cream, a nail varnish or a patch to be applied onto a nail.
  • monounsaturated fatty acids that are suitable for use in the invention, use may be made more particularly of oleic acid, petrosehnic acid, sapienic acid, cis-8- octadecenoic acid or cis-vaccenic acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • Petrosehnic acid is most particularly suitable for use in the invention.
  • the monounsaturated fatty acid(s) are used in an isolated form, i.e. after extraction from their source of origin.
  • the monounsaturated fatty acid(s) are used in a plant extract such as an oil.
  • the invention relates especially to the cosmetic use of an oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acid of the invention, and in particular rich in petrosehnic acid.
  • the oils rich in petrosehnic acid are more particularly chosen from Umbellifera plant oils.
  • oil rich in petrosehnic acid means an oil comprising at least 40% petrosehnic acid.
  • Umbelliferae are plants whose flowers are arranged in umbels, and the species that are particularly rich in petrosehnic acid are Umbelliferea-Apiacea and Araliaceae. Plants of the genus Thapsia are also sources of petrosehnic acid (Avato et ah, Lipids, 2001, 36, 845).
  • the species preferably used in the invention are coriander, chervil, carrot, celery, cumin, caraway, parsley and dill, or mixtures thereof.
  • the Umbellifera plant oil used according to the invention may be extracted from the seed of an Umbellifera plant, for example by grinding or pressing, followed by refining.
  • the Umbellifera plant oil has a petrosehnic acid content that varies according to the Umbellifera plant seed from which it is extracted.
  • the petrosehnic acid content also varies according to the country of origin of the Umbellifera plant and according to the extraction, which may be more or less complete.
  • Petrosehnic acid is also an abundant compound (about 48%) of the oil from the seed of Gernium sanguneum (Tsevegsuren et ah, Lipids, 2004, 39, 571).
  • the monounsaturated fatty acid more particularly under consideration in the invention is petrosehnic acid.
  • the petrosehnic acid may be used in the form of Umbellifera plant oil or Gernium sanguneum oil.
  • the Umbelliferae plant oil more particularly under consideration in the invention may be chosen from the seed oils of coriander, chervil, carrot, celery, cumin, caraway, parsley and dill, or mixtures thereof.
  • the invention improves, reinforces or restores an esthetically healthy state of a nail.
  • various intrinsic or extrinsic factors may be the cause of an esthetically degraded state of the nails.
  • the object of the present invention is to restore this state without treating or preventing the cause, and is thus limited to the cosmetic field.
  • the invention does not relate to the therapeutic field.
  • the invention is directed toward preventing and/or treating an impairment in the structure of the nails, in particular to prevent and/or treat brittle, fragile, soft, split or cracked nails.
  • the expression "impairment in the structure of the nails” means an impairment in the organization of the keratin fibers or of their chemical composition, especially their lipid composition, constituting the nails with regard to an organization or a composition observed in nails of healthy esthetic quality.
  • the impairments in the structure of the nails may lead to the presence of striations on the surface of the nails or to a deformation of the nails.
  • the invention is also directed toward preventing and/or treating deformed or striated nails.
  • the invention is also directed toward preventing and/or treating nails of nonuniform color or tint or nails which have marks or a dull appearance.
  • the nails under consideration by the invention may have a yellowish tint or marks.
  • an active agent under consideration in the invention promotes, reinforces and/or improves the growth and/or flexibility and/or hardness of the nails.
  • Nails treated according to the invention thus prove to be less brittle, harder, more flexible, and/or more resistant to impacts, and have a lesser tendency to split.
  • An active agent of the invention can also make the nails smooth, shiny and/or translucent.
  • an active agent of the invention gives the nails a whiter, shinier and/or more homogeneous color or tint.
  • compositions according to the invention may be administered topically.
  • the compositions according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used for the topical route.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium.
  • a topical composition that is suitable for use in the invention may advantageously be formulated in any galenical form that is suitable for nailcare and may be in the form of ointments, creams, milks, pomades, powders, impregnated pads, solutions, gels, sprays, lotions or suspensions. It may also be in the form of lipid or polymeric microspheres, nanospheres or vesicles or polymer patches and hydrogels allowing controlled release. These topical compositions may be either in anhydrous form or in aqueous form according to the dermocosmetic indication.
  • the composition intended for topical administration may be a nail varnish, a nail patch, a false nail, an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution, a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type, an emulsion of liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or conversely (W/O), a suspension or an emulsion, of soft, semisolid or solid consistency, of the cream type or of the aqueous or anhydrous gel type, a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or 0/W/O), a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a preparation of microcapsules, a preparation of microparticles, a vesicular dispersion of ionic and/or nonionic type, or a wax/aqueous phase dispersion, a mousse or an aerosol composition containing a propellant.
  • a topical composition that is suitable for use
  • a topical composition may also be in the form of a transdermal system allowing active or passive release of the active agent(s) transdermally, for example of the patch or patch gel (hydrogel) type.
  • compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • a topical composition may be uncolored or weakly colored, and may optionally contain additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents, especially as indicated below.
  • a topical composition may be formulated as a care base for the hands and nails, for protecting the hands and nails against the cold and/or sunlight and/or the wind.
  • a composition administered topically may especially constitute a cleansing, protecting, treating or care cream, a nailcare lotion, gel or mousse, such as a cleansing or disinfecting lotion, or a bath composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may also consist of a solid preparation constituting a soap or a cleansing bar.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight and preferably from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetics and/or dermatology.
  • the emulsifier and the coemulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 03% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the galenical forms intended for topical administration may also contain adjuvants that are common in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and/or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, odour absorbers and dyestuffs.
  • adjuvants that are common in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and/or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, odour absorbers and dyestuffs.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase and/or into the aqueous phase.
  • mineral oils for instance hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petroleum jelly
  • plant oils for instance a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and apricot kernel oil
  • animal oils for instance perhydrosqualene
  • synthetic oils especially purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethylhexyl palmitate
  • unsaturated fatty acids and fluoro oils for instance perfluoropolyethers.
  • fatty alcohols fatty acids, for instance stearic acid and, for example, waxes, especially paraffin wax, carnauba wax and beeswax.
  • silicone compounds for instance silicone oils, for example cyclomethicone and dimethicone, and silicone waxes, resins and gums.
  • emulsifiers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60, the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 33 mol of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO® by the company Henkel, the mixture of PEG-6/PEG-32/glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose® 63 by the company Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, and sorbitan monostearate or tristearate, PEG-40 stearate and oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate.
  • glyceryl stearate polysorbate 60
  • solvents that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, for instance ethanol, isopropanol and propylene glycol.
  • a composition of the invention may also advantageously contain a spring and/or mineral water, chosen especially from Vittel water, waters from the Vichy basin and Roche Posay water.
  • Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as acrylate/alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides and especially the mixture of polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305® by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides, for instance cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar gum, locust bean gum and xanthan gum, and clays.
  • carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as acrylate/alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides and especially the mixture of polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305® by the company SEPPIC
  • polysaccharides for instance cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses and in particular hydroxy
  • Lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified clays, for instance bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, for instance aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethylcellulose and polyethylene.
  • a monounsaturated fatty acid according to the invention may advantageously be used in combination with an additional active agent, especially a cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agent.
  • such an additional cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agent may be intended to exert a cosmetic care or hygiene effect on the nails.
  • the additional active agents are chosen by a person skilled in the art so that they do not harm the effect of the monounsaturated fatty acids of the invention.
  • vitamins such as vitamin A, B 5 , B 6 , B 8 , C, D, E or PP (vitamin B 3 or niacin),
  • curcuminoids such as curcuminoids; carotenoids, especially a carotenoid chosen from ⁇ -carotene, lycopene and derivatives thereof, such as cis-lycopene or lactolycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein or compounds containing same, such as wolfberry or lactowolfberry; polyphenol compounds, flavonoids such as catechins; hesperidin, proanthocyanidins, anthocyanins, PCOs (procyannidol oligomers); ubiquinones; coffee extracts containing polyphenols and/or diterpenes; chicory extracts; Ginkgo biloba extracts; grape extracts rich in proanthocyanidins; pimento extracts; soybean extracts; cocoa or coconut milk; pomegranate; Emblica,
  • sulfur amino acids such as glutathione precursors, taurine and selenium amino acids
  • oligosaccharides chosen especially from oligosaccharides, produced from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, gums of acacia type, for example, or a mixture thereof.
  • the oligosaccharide comprises at least one fructo-oligosaccharide.
  • this prebiotic may comprise a mixture of fructo-oligosaccharide and of inulin,
  • phytosterols such as resveratrol
  • a monounsaturated fatty acid according to the invention, a salt thereof and/or an ester thereof may be used in combination with at least one additional cosmetic active agent chosen in particular from vitamin B3, B5, B6, B8, C, E or PP, carotenoids, curcuminoids, niacin, flavonoids, orthosilicic acid, monomethylsilanetriol, or one or more divalent mineral cations, bacteria or bacterial extracts derived from non- photosynthetic and non- fructifying filamentous bacteria, probiotic microorganisms, in particular lactic acid microorganisms, prebiotic nutrients or a mixture of probiotic microorganisms and/or a mixture of prebiotic nutrients.
  • additional cosmetic active agent chosen in particular from vitamin B3, B5, B6, B8, C, E or PP, carotenoids, curcuminoids, niacin, flavonoids, orthosilicic acid, monomethylsilanetriol, or one or more divalent mineral cations, bacteria or bacterial extracts derived from non- photos
  • an antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, especially a carotenoid chosen from ⁇ -carotene, lycopene and derivatives (czs-lycopene, lactolycopene), astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein or compounds containing same such as wolfberry or lactowolfberry, flavonoids such as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins, resveratrol, cocoa or coconut milk, pomegranate and Emblica.
  • a carotenoid chosen from ⁇ -carotene, lycopene and derivatives (czs-lycopene, lactolycopene), astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein or compounds containing same such as wolfberry or lactowolfberry, flavonoids such as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins, re
  • a composition of the invention may also contain one or more divalent mineral cations in various forms.
  • a divalent mineral cation may thus be in the form of an anhydrous or hydrated mineral or organic salt or a chelated complex.
  • the salts may be, for example, carbonates, sulfates, glycerophosphates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, oxides, a-hydroxy acid salts (citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or fruit acid salts, or alternatively amino acid salts (aspartate, arginate, fumarate) or fatty acid salts (palmitate, oleate, caseinate, behenate).
  • a divalent mineral cation may be chosen from manganese, copper and/or zinc or from alkaline-earth metals.
  • alkaline-earth metals that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of barium, calcium, magnesium, strontium and/or beryllium.
  • a divalent mineral cation and especially an alkaline-earth metal, is used in the present invention in salt form.
  • the salt may be chosen from nitrate, citrate, chloride, gluconate, sulfate, lactate and/or acetate salts.
  • a divalent mineral cation may also be used in the form of a chelated complex, especially chelated to crystalline or ionized proteins.
  • a divalent mineral cation may also be in a specific form stored by a microorganism, for example such as a yeast, like selenium yeasts.
  • a composition of the invention may contain non-photosynthetic and non- fructifying filamentous bacteria or bacterial extracts derived from non-photosynthetic and non- fructifying filamentous bacteria as defined according to the classification in Bergey's Manual of Systemic Bacteriology, volume 3, section 23, 9th edition, 1989.
  • Mention may be made in particular of bacteria belonging to the order of Beggiatoales, and especially bacteria belonging to the genus Beggiatoa. Mention may moreover be made of bacteria belonging to the genus Vitreoscilla, which is similar to the genus Beggiatoa.
  • Mention may be made, for example, of Vitreoscilla beggiatoides (ATCC 43181) and Beggiatoa alba (ATCC33555), and preferentially the use of the extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis, in particular with the strain ATCC 15551, metabolites thereof and fractions thereof may be used.
  • a composition of the invention may also comprise at least one probiotic microorganism, a prebiotic agent or a mixture of probiotic microorganisms and a mixture of prebiotic agents.
  • probiotic microorganisms that are suitable for use in the invention are Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, Lactobacillus acidophilus (LCI, NCFB 1748); Lactobacillus amylovorus, Lactobacillus casei (Shirota), Lactobacillus rhamnosus (strain GG), Lactobacillus brevis, Lactobacillus crispatus, Lactobacillus delbruckii (subsp.
  • Lactobacillus fermentum Lactobacillus helveticus, Lactobacillus gallinarum, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus plantarum, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus, Lactobacillus salivarius, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus casei subsp. casei, Lactobacillus sake, Lactococcus lactis, Enterococcus faecalis or faecium, Lactococcus lactis subsp.
  • lactis or cremoris Leuconostoc mesenteroides subsp. dextranicum, Pediococcus acidilactici, Sporolactobacillus inulinus, Streptococcus salvarius subsp. thermophilus, Streptococcus thermophilus, Staphylococcus carnosus, Staphylococcus xylosus, Saccharomyces cerevisiae or boulardii), Bacillus cereus var. toyo or subtilis), Bacillus coagulans, Bacillus licheniformis, Escherichia coli strain nissle, Propionibacterium freudenreichii, and mixtures thereof.
  • microorganisms may be formulated in the form of powders, i.e. in a dry form, or in the form of suspensions or solutions.
  • probiotic microorganisms chosen from microorganisms of the genus Lactobacillus sp. and/or Bifidobacterium sp., a fraction thereof and/or a metabolite thereof.
  • Lactobacillus johnsonii Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus casei, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis and Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum, and mixtures thereof.
  • the species that are most particularly suitable for use are Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium longum and Bifidobacterium lactis NCC 2818 (also known as Bbl2 ATCC 27536), which were deposited, respectively, according to the treaty of Budapest, at the Institut Pasteur (28, rue du Dondel Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15) on 06/30/92, 01/12/99, 04/15/99, 04/15/99 and 06/07/05 under the following designations CNCM 1-1225, CNCM 1-2116, CNCM 1-2168 and CNCM 1-2170 and CNCM 1-3446, and the genus Bifidobacterium longum (BB536).
  • the strain of Bifidobacterium lactis CNCM 1-3446 may be obtained from Hansen (Chr. Hansen A/S, 10-12 Boege Alle, P.O. Box 40
  • the composition comprises at least two different microorganisms, which are especially probiotic, and/or metabolites and/or fractions thereof.
  • These microorganisms may differ by their nature, for example bacterium and fungus, or alternatively by their family, their genus or their species, or only by their strain.
  • the prebiotic agents that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from oligosaccharides, produced from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, gums of acacia type, for example, or a mixture thereof. More particularly, the oligosaccharide comprises at least one fructo-oligosaccharide. More particularly, this prebiotic may comprise a mixture of fructo-oligosaccharide and of inulin.
  • a composition of the invention may also advantageously contain polyunsaturated fatty acids chosen especially from co-3 fatty acids and co-6 fatty acids.
  • the unsaturated fatty acids that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from fatty acids comprising from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular polyunsaturated fatty acids, and especially co-3 and co-6 fatty acids.
  • polyunsaturated fatty acids of the co-6 series that may be used in a composition of the invention, mention may be made in particular of linoleic acid containing 18 carbon atoms and two unsaturations (18:2 co-6), ⁇ -linolenic acid containing 18 carbon atoms and three unsaturations (18:3 co-6), di-homo-y-linolenic acid containing 20 carbon atoms and three unsaturations (20:3 co-6), arachidonic acid (20:4 co-6) and docosatetraenoic acid (22:4, co-6).
  • the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the co-3 series may be chosen especially from a-linolenic acid (18:3 co-3), stearidonic acid (18:4 co-3), eicosapentaenoic acid or EPA (20:5 co-3), docosahexaenoic acid or DHA (22:6 co-3) and docosapentaenoic acid (22:5 co-3).
  • a-Linolenic acid ⁇ -linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, mixtures thereof or extracts comprising them will be most particularly suitable for use in the invention.
  • the sources of gamma- linolenic acid may be chosen from plant oils, for instance evening-primrose oil, borage oil, blackcurrant pip oil, Ecchium oil and hemp oil, and extracts of the microalga spirulina ⁇ Spirulina maxima and Spirulina platensis).
  • Plant oils from walnut, hazelnut, almond (Juglans regia), coriander, soybean (Glycina max), rape seed (Brassica naptus), chia, flax, musk rose and fish oils, for example, are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids of the co-3 series, co-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids may also be found in zooplankton, crustaceans/molluscs and fish.
  • Microalgal biomass may also constitute a raw material for the extraction of co-3 unsaturated fatty acids.
  • a polyunsaturated fatty acid may be used in a composition of the invention in the form of at least one oil chosen from evening-primrose oil, borage oil, blackcurrant pip oil, walnut oil, soybean oil, fish oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, hemp oil, fenugreek oil, musk rose oil, Ecchium oil, argan oil, baobab oil, rice bran oil, sesame oil, almond oil, walnut oil, hazelnut oil, chia oil, flax oil, musk rose oil, olive oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coriander oil and/or oil extracted from microalgal biomass (for example spirulina) or extracted from zooplankton.
  • oil chosen from evening-primrose oil, borage oil, blackcurrant pip oil, walnut oil, soybean oil, fish oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, hemp oil, fenugreek oil
  • a composition of the invention may comprise additional hydrophilic active agents.
  • Hydrophilic active agents that may be used include proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, especially of C 2 to C 1 0, for instance glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol or polyethylene glycol, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starch, and bacterial or plant extracts, for instance those from Aloe vera.
  • a composition of the invention may also comprise a lipophilic active agent.
  • Lipophilic active agents that may be used include retinol (vitamin A) and derivatives thereof, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives thereof, ceramides and essential oils.
  • the present invention relates to a topical cosmetic nailcare treatment process, which may especially be performed by administering the cosmetic compositions as defined above, according to the usual technique for the use of these compositions.
  • the invention relates to a topical cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating nail impairments, in the case of an individual in need thereof, comprising at least one step of administering to said individual, as an active agent, at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, a salt thereof and/or an ester thereof, and in particular petroselinic acid.
  • a process according to the invention may comprise a step that consists in observing a reduction in, or even disappearance of, the nail impairments.
  • the application of a process of the invention may reinforce, improve or even restore the growth, the hardness, the resistance to impacts, a physiological form, a smooth appearance, a translucent appearance, or a uniform tint or color, especially a white tint or color.
  • a cosmetic process according to the invention may be performed especially by administering a topical composition as defined above.
  • a process of the invention may be performed on a daily basis, for example, for instance at a rate of one administration per day or one administration twice a day, for example once in the morning and once in the evening, or three times a day.
  • a cosmetic process according to the invention may be performed, for example, by daily administration of a composition formulated, for example, in the form of nail gels, lotions, creams, mousses or varnishes.
  • An effective amount of monounsaturated fatty acid may be administered in a single dose per day or in fractional doses over the day, for example two to three times a day.
  • a process according to the invention may advantageously comprise a single administration.
  • a cosmetic process may be performed over a time period ranging from one week to several weeks, or even several months, this period moreover possibly being repeated after periods without treatment, for several months or even several years.
  • the administration of a monounsaturated fatty acid according to the invention may be performed at a rate, for example, of three times a day more generally over a prolonged period of at least 4 weeks, or even 4 to 15 weeks, optionally comprising one or more periods of interruption or being repeated after a period of interruption.
  • the present application relates to the topical cosmetic use of at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, a salt thereof and/or an ester thereof, as a nailcare active agent, said monounsaturated fatty acid being chosen from petroselinic acid, sapienic acid, cz ' s-8-octadecenoic acid and cz ' s-vaccenic acid, or mixtures thereof, and is preferably petroselinic acid.
  • the present application relates to a topical cosmetic treatment process for nailcare, in the case of an individual in need thereof, comprising at least one step of administering to said individual, as an active agent, at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, a salt thereof and/or an ester thereof, said monounsaturated fatty acid being chosen from petroselinic acid, sapienic acid, cz ' s-8-octadecenoic acid and cis- vaccenic acid, or mixtures thereof, and is preferably petroselinic acid.
  • Figure 1 Fatty acid profile for fatty acid in methyl ester form (FAME) in samples of hair, nail and sebum showing the presence of a complex mixture (left-hand Figure) of cis- octadecenoic acid isomers, comprising petroselinic acid (cis-6 18: 1), the monounsaturated fatty acid cis- 18: 1 , oleic acid (cis-9 18: 1) and cz ' s-vaccenic acid (cis-l l 18: 1).
  • the analysis was performed on a capillary column having as stationary phase an ionic liquid SLB-IL 1 1 1 (Supelco).
  • SLB-IL 1 1 1 SLB-IL 1 1 1 (Supelco).
  • the mixture of standards containing cis-6 16: 1 , cis-6 18: 1 , cis- 18: 1 and cis-5, cis- 8 18:2 fatty acids was obtained from Lipidox (Sweden).
  • 2-Amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol was obtained from Sigma-Aldrich (Saint-Louis, USA) and methanol/HCl (3N) was obtained from Supelco (Bellefonte, PA).
  • methyl esters of pure cis-6 16: 1, cis-6 18: 1 , cis- 18: 1 and cis-5, cis- 18:2 fatty acids were obtained from Lipidox (Sweden).
  • Sampling of hair approximately 20 hairs including the hair follicles were taken from the scalp of women, using tweezers. The hairs were then chopped with a razor blade to obtain about 1 cm of hair from the hair follicle. The hairs including the hair follicle were then combined in a 15 ml Falcon tube before methylation.
  • SC stratum corneum
  • the SC is a surface layer of the epidermis, which consists of corneocytes inserted in a lipid bilayer. Among these lipids are those produced by the sebum. Briefly, strips of adhesive tape 2 cm wide and 5 cm long were used (Scotch MagicTM tape). The adhesive tapes were applied to the skin of the right cheek of the volunteers, rubbed gently to ensure adhesion, and pulled off rapidly and abruptly. This procedure was repeated ten times on the same area. The ten samples of adhesive tape were combined in a 50 ml Falcon tube and subjected to the extraction process.
  • the fatty acid methyl esters were prepared as follows.
  • the hair and nail samples (> 20 mg) were placed in a mortar and ground finely under refrigerated conditions (liquid nitrogen). The crushed samples were then transferred into 10 ml test tubes with methanol (2 ml), methanol/HCl (2 ml, 3N) and hexane (1 ml). After vigorous stirring, methylation was performed at 100°C for 60 minutes and the tubes were stirred vigorously every 20 minutes. After cooling to the room temperature, water (2 ml) was added and the tubes were centrifuged at 1200 g for 5 minutes. If necessary, the sample was also concentrated before analysis by gas chromatography (GC).
  • GC gas chromatography
  • the sebum samples were extracted from the adhesive tapes by immersion and homogenization in hexane (1 ml) and methanol (2 ml) for 1 minute. After removal of the adhesive tapes from the tubes, methanol/HCl (2 ml, 3N) was added and methylation was performed as indicated above.
  • DMOX 4,4-dimethyloxazoline
  • the FAMEs were dried in the presence of nitrogen and mixed with 2- amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol (0.5 ml) and heated at 190°C overnight. After cooling to room temperature, hexane (2 ml) and water (2 ml) were added, and the tube was stirred vigorously and then centrifuged at 1000 rpm for 2 minutes. The organic phase was recovered and the hexane was evaporated off using nitrogen. The sample was diluted in fresh hexane and analyzed by GC-MS.
  • GC-MS gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry
  • the DMOX samples were analyzed on a 6890 Series II gas chromatograph (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, CA) coupled to a 5973N selective quadrupole mass detector (Agilent Technologies, Santa Clara, CA) equipped with a source of ions for electron ionization (EI).
  • the device was operated in positive ion mode using a standard electron energy of 70 eV.
  • the GC injector was operated in "split" distribution mode: (25: 1 distribution ratio) at 250°C, the GC-MS interface was maintained at 250°C.
  • Helium was used as vector gas, at a constant flow rate of 1 ml/minute.
  • the oven temperature program was: 60°C at isotherm for 5 minutes, then increased to 160°C in increments of 15°C/minute, then maintained at isotherm for 1 minute at this temperature, then increased to 195°C in increments of 2°C/minute, then maintained at isotherm for 1 minute, then increased to 250°C in increments of 5°C/minute, and maintained at isotherm for 8 minutes.
  • the length of the chains and the number of double bonds in the fatty acids were deduced from the molecular ions.

Abstract

L'invention porte sur l'utilisation cosmétique topique d'une quantité efficace d'au moins un acide gras monoinsaturé, d'un sel et/ou d'un ester de celui-ci, en tant qu'agent actif de soin des ongles.
PCT/IB2012/056264 2011-11-09 2012-11-08 Acide gras monoinsaturé pour le soin des ongles WO2013068962A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1160200A FR2982151B1 (fr) 2011-11-09 2011-11-09 Acide gras mono-insature pour le soin des ongles
FR1160200 2011-11-09

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2013068962A2 true WO2013068962A2 (fr) 2013-05-16
WO2013068962A3 WO2013068962A3 (fr) 2014-05-15

Family

ID=47326267

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IB2012/056264 WO2013068962A2 (fr) 2011-11-09 2012-11-08 Acide gras monoinsaturé pour le soin des ongles

Country Status (2)

Country Link
FR (1) FR2982151B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2013068962A2 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10806769B2 (en) 2016-03-31 2020-10-20 Gojo Industries, Inc. Antimicrobial peptide stimulating cleansing composition
US10874700B2 (en) 2016-03-31 2020-12-29 Gojo Industries, Inc. Sanitizer composition with probiotic/prebiotic active ingredient
US11564879B2 (en) 2016-11-23 2023-01-31 Gojo Industries, Inc. Sanitizer composition with probiotic/prebiotic active ingredient

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0116439A2 (fr) 1983-02-02 1984-08-22 Suntory Limited Composition tonique pour cheveux contenant un acide gras
EP0709084A2 (fr) 1994-10-07 1996-05-01 L'oreal Utilisation d'une huile riche en acide pétrosélinique comme agent hydratant

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3395236A (en) * 1961-09-28 1968-07-30 Cleveland J. White Composition comprising oleic acid, polyethylene glycol, and gelating for treating nail infections
FR1603765A (en) * 1968-11-18 1971-05-24 Cosmetics contg fatty acids, cholesterol and cystine
FR2569347B1 (fr) * 1984-08-22 1987-10-23 Mollet Marc Composition lipidique favorisant la pousse des phaneres et produits cosmetiques en renfermant
JPH01275514A (ja) * 1988-04-26 1989-11-06 Hiromichi Shimizu マッサージオイル
FR2756181B1 (fr) * 1996-11-26 1999-03-05 Au Mont Beaute Composition cosmetique, pharmaceutique a base de culture inactivee de bacteries bifidobacterium, d'huile de menthe et d'un acide
PL367514A1 (en) * 2001-09-04 2005-02-21 Trommsdorff Gmbh & Co.Kg Arzneimittel Plaster for the treatment of dysfunctions and disorders of nails
MX2011007104A (es) * 2009-01-08 2011-08-03 Allergan Inc Composiciones para mejorar el crecimiento de la uña.

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0116439A2 (fr) 1983-02-02 1984-08-22 Suntory Limited Composition tonique pour cheveux contenant un acide gras
EP0709084A2 (fr) 1994-10-07 1996-05-01 L'oreal Utilisation d'une huile riche en acide pétrosélinique comme agent hydratant

Non-Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"Bergey's Manual of Systemic Bacteriology", vol. 3, 1989
AVATO ET AL., LIPIDS, vol. 36, 2001, pages 845
DESTAILLATS ET AL., LIPID TECHNOLOGY, vol. 16, 2004, pages 183
FAY ET AL., J. CHROMATOGR. A, vol. 541, 1991, pages 89
TSEVEGSUREN ET AL., LIPIDS, vol. 39, 2004, pages 571

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10806769B2 (en) 2016-03-31 2020-10-20 Gojo Industries, Inc. Antimicrobial peptide stimulating cleansing composition
US10874700B2 (en) 2016-03-31 2020-12-29 Gojo Industries, Inc. Sanitizer composition with probiotic/prebiotic active ingredient
US11633451B2 (en) 2016-03-31 2023-04-25 Gojo Industries, Inc. Antimicrobial peptide stimulating cleansing composition
US11564879B2 (en) 2016-11-23 2023-01-31 Gojo Industries, Inc. Sanitizer composition with probiotic/prebiotic active ingredient

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2982151B1 (fr) 2014-01-24
WO2013068962A3 (fr) 2014-05-15
FR2982151A1 (fr) 2013-05-10

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US11154731B2 (en) Cosmetic use of Bifidobacterium species lysate for the treatment of dryness
CN102131495B (zh) 微生物用于治疗头皮病症的美容应用
US8951775B2 (en) Cosmetic use of microorganisms for the treatment of oily skin
EP2181703B1 (fr) Utilisation d'un lysat de microorganisme pour le traitement des peaux grasses
JP6163284B2 (ja) 脂性の頭皮の処置のためにビフィズス菌種の溶解物を用いる化粧的方法
US20120301452A1 (en) Probiotic microorganisms as active agents for enhancing the radiance of the skin's complexion
KR20070070153A (ko) 민감성 및/또는 건성 피부의 예방 및/또는 치료에 유용한방법 및 조성물
WO2009053564A2 (fr) Utilisation cosmetique de lysat de bifidobacterium species pour renforcer la fonction barriere cutanee
EP2830588B1 (fr) Utilisation d'un lysat d'une culture de bactérie du genre vitreoscillasp. dans la prévention et/ou le traitement d'états d'hyperséborrhée du cuir chevelu
WO2009031099A2 (fr) Utilisation sous forme cosmétique de micro-organismes
US10555882B2 (en) Monounsaturated fatty acid for nailcare
WO2013068962A2 (fr) Acide gras monoinsaturé pour le soin des ongles
FR2937548A1 (fr) Utilisation d'un lysat de bifidobacterium species pour preparer la peau d'un sujet a traitement cutane de surface
EP1932510A1 (fr) Utilisation d'au moins un acide gras monoinsaturé pour le traitement des peaux, muqueuses et cuirs chevelus fragiles
WO2008078050A2 (fr) Utilisation d'au moins un acide gras mono-insature pour le traitement des peaux, muqueuses ou semi-muqueuses et cuirs chevelus fragiles
TWI809596B (zh) 來自結構化水介質的發酵物與包含彼之化妝品組合物
FR2945944A1 (fr) Procede cosmetique de traitement des etats pelliculaires comprenant l'administration d'un microorganisme probiotique et d'un actif antipelliculaire

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 12798870

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A2

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 12798870

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A2