WO2013041553A1 - Oil-in-water emulsion including a high plant oil content - Google Patents

Oil-in-water emulsion including a high plant oil content Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013041553A1
WO2013041553A1 PCT/EP2012/068406 EP2012068406W WO2013041553A1 WO 2013041553 A1 WO2013041553 A1 WO 2013041553A1 EP 2012068406 W EP2012068406 W EP 2012068406W WO 2013041553 A1 WO2013041553 A1 WO 2013041553A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
emulsion
poloxamer
sucrose
sugar
weight
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PCT/EP2012/068406
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Claire PELE
Florence BARRAQUET
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2013041553A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013041553A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/90Block copolymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • Oil-in-water emulsion including a high plant oil content
  • This invention relates to an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion including a high plant oil content.
  • the invention relates in particular to an emulsion that can be used as a composition that can be applied topically, and in particular a cosmetic composition.
  • the invention also relates to the use of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate in an O/W emulsion so as to improve the stability thereof.
  • compositions are formulated in the form of O/W emulsions. This is the case in particular of cosmetic compositions. These compositions include an oily phase in which one or more plants oils may be present.
  • An emulsion is a macroscopically homogeneous but microscopically heterogeneous mixture of an oily liquid (or lipophilic) phase and an aqueous liquid (or hydrophilic) phase, which are non-miscible, such as water and an oil.
  • One phase is dispersed in the second phase in the form of droplets.
  • the oil is dispersed in the water.
  • the inventors discovered that the presence of a high plant oil content causes instability of the emulsion appearing during its conversion, in particular when the composition includes one or more oxyalkylene sugar ethers and/or one or more sugar esters.
  • This problem of stability may cause a drop in viscosity, a very rough microscopic appearance with the presence of oil in the aqueous phase, and/or a more translucent appearance of the composition, which is obviously undesirable.
  • the invention is intended primarily to solve the technical problem consisting of providing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of a stable
  • O/W emulsion in particular when the emulsion includes a high proportion of plant oil, at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and/or at least one sugar ester.
  • This invention is also intended to provide such a composition without altering the sensory appearance perceived by the user.
  • This invention is also intended to identify one or more substances making it possible to stabilize O/W emulsions including a high proportion of plant oil, at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and/or at least one sugar ester, without negatively affecting the sensory qualities of the final composition.
  • the invention therefore also proposes providing a method for improving the stability of a O/W emulsion as described above.
  • the invention relates to an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion including at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether, at least one sugar ester, at least 4%, and preferably at least 6%, of one or more plants oils, and at least 0.1 % of one or more ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensates, with the percentages indicating the weight with respect to the weight of the total composition.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate is in the hydrophilic phase.
  • This polycondensate is more specifically a copolymer consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates.
  • These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:
  • the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate preferably has an average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000, and more preferably ranging from 1500 to
  • 15000 and in particular ranging from 1500 to 10000, and even more preferably ranging from 1500 to 5000 g/mol.
  • said ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate has a cloud temperature, at 10 g/L in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20°C, preferably greater than or equal to 60°C.
  • the cloud temperature is measured according to ISO standard 1065.
  • the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate may, for example, be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1 % by weight and even more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight.
  • An optimal poloxamer proportion is 0.15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • oil we mean a substance comprised of identical or different molecules having hydrophobic and liquid properties at ambient temperature.
  • plant or “plant origin”, we mean a substance extracted or obtained from one or more parts of one or more plants. This therefore rules out, in particular, compounds obtained from an animal.
  • the plant(s) oil(s) of the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: hydrocarbon oils of plant origin or a mixture of hydrocarbons of plant origin, such as perhydrosqualene, fatty acid liquid triglycerides comprising 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides of plant origin, or sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, sesame, hazelnut, apricot seed, sweet almond, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor, avocado, musk rose, rosehip, grape seed, black currant and jojoba oils; triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids of plant origin such as those sold by the Stearineries Dubois company or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the Dynamit Nobel company, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; linear alkanes of plant origin, preferably including 7 to 14 carbon atoms, and any one
  • the proportion of plant oil is between 4 and 15% by weight.
  • the proportion of plant(s) oil(s) is between 6 and 8%, and is preferably 6.5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oxyalkylene sugar ether(s) used in this invention are products that are well known in themselves, and they may more specifically be represented by the following general formula (I):
  • R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, alkyl radical, comprising around 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, and even more preferably 1 ;
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • t designates a value ranging from 0 to 25; preferably from 5 to 25; and even more preferably from 15 to 25.
  • Preferred oxyalkylene sugar ethers according to this invention are compounds of formula (I) wherein R1 more specifically designates a methyl radical, t designates a value ranging from 15 to 25 and more specifically equal to 20, and G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose.
  • the oxyalkylene sugar ethers may be chosen, for example, from oxyethylene methyl-glucose (20 OE) such as the product sold under the name GLUCAM E-20 HUMECTANT by the Lubrizol company; or oxyethylene methyl-glucose (10 OE) such as the product sold under the name GLUCAM E-10 HUMECTANT by the Lubrizol company.
  • oxyethylene methyl-glucose (20 OE) such as the product sold under the name GLUCAM E-20 HUMECTANT by the Lubrizol company
  • oxyethylene methyl-glucose (10 OE) such as the product sold under the name GLUCAM E-10 HUMECTANT by the Lubrizol company.
  • the oxyalkylene sugar ether(s) may, for example, be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.
  • sucrose in this application, we mean compounds that have several times the alcohol function with or without an aldehyde or ketone function and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms, and preferably 5 to 6 carbon atoms. It is possible to cite, in particular, optionally oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) or polyglycerol fatty esters of sugar.
  • the fatty acid and sugar esters may be chosen in particular from the group including the C 12 to C 2 2 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, trehalose or methylglucose esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters. It is also possible to cite the sorbitol or sorbitan esters. Preferably, these esters are chosen from the mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, the polyesters and mixtures thereof. As an example, these esters can in particular be chosen from the stearates, behenates, cocoates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates, oleates, laurates and mixtures thereof.
  • sucrose esters It is possible to use sucrose esters. It is possible to cite, for example, as a sucrose ester, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or di-laurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or di-palmitate, sucrose mono- or di-stearate, sucrose mono-, di-, or tri-oleate, sucrose mono- or di-linoleate, sucrose polyesters such as sucrose pentaoleate, hexaoleate, heptaoleate or octooleate, and mixed esters such as sucrose palmito-stearate.
  • sucrose ester sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or di-laurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or di-palmitate, sucrose mono- or di-stearate, sucrose mono-, di
  • the oxyalkylene sugar esters used in the invention are in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid and sugar esters. These oxyalkylene sugar esters can be chosen, for example, from the oxyethylene glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate sold under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the Amerchol company.
  • the sugar ester(s) may, for example, be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight.
  • the emulsion of the invention typically includes one or more topically acceptable excipients, and optionally one or more active ingredients.
  • the composition may thus include at least one additional ingredient intended to provide a visual effect (cosmetically active ingredients or cosmetic active agents). It is possible to cite in particular fillers with a soft-focus effect or agents promoting the natural pink coloring of the skin.
  • compositions according to this invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants in particular chosen from fatty substances, in particular non-plant or synthetic oils, waxes, organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic, softeners, moistening agents, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti- foaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active substances, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient routinely used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field.
  • conventional cosmetic adjuvants in particular chosen from fatty substances, in particular non-plant or synthetic oils, waxes, organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic, softeners, moistening agents, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti- foaming agents
  • the fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax or mixtures thereof.
  • wax we mean a compound that is solid or substantially solid at ambient temperature, and of which the melting point is generally greater than 35.
  • oils we may cite, for example, inorganic oils (paraffin oil); synthetic oils such as perhydrosqualene, fatty alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name "Eldew SL-205" by Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as C12-C15 alcohol benzoate sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN” or “Witconol TN” by WITCO, 2- ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226® by ISP, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by Cognis), oxyethylene or oxypropylene fatty esters and ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethysiloxanes
  • the waxes include, for example, carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by SASOL
  • the organic solvents include, for example lower alcohols and polyols. These may be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
  • the hydrophilic thickeners include, for example, carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides such as for example cross-linked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (C.T.F.A. name polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (C.T.F.A.
  • carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer)
  • polyacrylamides such as for example cross-linked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (C.T.F.A. name polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (C.T.F.A.
  • the lipophilic thickeners include, for example, synthetic polymers such as polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate
  • the O/W emulsions according to the invention may be prepared according to techniques well known to a person skilled in the art. They may in particular be in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex, such as a cream, a milk, or a cream gel; in the form of an aqueous gel; or in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of a foam or a spray.
  • the emulsions according to the invention may also include at least one emulsifying surfactant different from the oxyalkylene sugar ethers, generally chosen from the amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifying surfactants, used alone or in a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are suitably chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained.
  • non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylene (more specifically polyoxyethylene) fatty acid and glycerol esters; oxyalkylene fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) fatty acid esters such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers.
  • oxyalkylene more specifically polyoxyethylene
  • fatty acid and glycerol esters oxyalkylene fatty acid and sorbitan esters
  • oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) fatty acid esters such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by ICI under the name Arlacel 165
  • compositions according to the invention are applicable in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments for the skin, lips and/or hair, including the scalp, in particular for protection and/or care of the skin, lips, nails and/or hair, and/or for makeup of the skin and/or lips and/or nails.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a makeup and/or sun protection product.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a care and/or sun protection product for the face and/or the body with a liquid to semi- liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less unctuous creams, cream gels and pastes. They may optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
  • compositions according to the invention in the form of fluid lotions suitable for vaporization according to the invention are applied on the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurization devices.
  • the devices according to the invention are well known to a person skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", with the aerosol containers including a propellant as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in patents US 4 077 441 and US 4 850 517 (herein included by reference).
  • compositions packaged as an aerosol according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, the hydrofluorinated compounds dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethylether, isobutane, n-butane, propane, trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the invention also relates to a method (or process) for stabilizing an O/W emulsion including at least 4%, and preferably at least 6%, of one or more plants oils, at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and/or at least one sugar ester, said method including the addition in the emulsion of at least 0.1 % by weight of at least one ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, said polycondensate preferably being as defined above.
  • this method makes it possible in particular to preserve the sensory qualities of the O/W emulsion.
  • sensor qualities it is meant the appearance, odor, color and texture, perceived and/or experienced by the user when looking at, touching or applying the product on the skin, lips, nails and/or hair.
  • preserving the sensory qualities it is meant not significantly modifying, for the user, the sensory qualities of the composition, and even preserving identical sensory qualities.
  • the invention also relates to the use of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, in particular as defined in the invention, in an emulsion of the O/W type as defined in the invention, so as to improve its stability.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic care method including the topical application of a O/W emulsion as defined in this invention.
  • Figure 1 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°2- example 1 ) after two months of preservation at 45°C;
  • Figure 3 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°3) including an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, after two months of preservation at 45°C
  • Figure 4 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°4) with 0.05% by weight of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, after two months of preservation at 37°C;
  • Figure 5 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°5) with 0.1 % by weight of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, after two months of preservation at 45°C;
  • Figure 6 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°6) with 0.15% by weight of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, after two months of preservation at 37°C.
  • emulsion n°1 of which the composition is provided in table 1
  • emulsion n°2 of which the composition is provided in table 1
  • the microscope used is a LEICA DMLB - type: 020-519.508LB100T and the microscope photographs were taken with enlargement x100.
  • Emulsion n°1 and emulsion n°2 differ primarily by the presence of plant oil in emulsion n°2.
  • emulsion n°2a an O/W emulsion was prepared (emulsion n°2a) including in addition 3.5% of fatty substance (ISOHEXADECANE) and 3% silicone (DIMETHICONE) instead of 6.5% fatty substance of plant origin.
  • fatty substance ISOHEXADECANE
  • silicone DIMETHICONE
  • Example 2 Addition of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate to stabilize emulsion n°2 (Invention)
  • an emulsion n°3 corresponding to the composition of emulsion n°2 was produced in which 0.15% ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate was added instead of water.
  • emulsion n°3 has comparable, sensory qualities, if not identical to those of emulsion n°2 just after its preparation and after it has been preserved over time (2 months, at 45°C). Thus, the sensory qualities of emulsion n°2 were preserved in emulsion n°3.
  • POLOXAMER 338 sold under the name SYNPERONIC PE/F 108 (FLAKES) by the CRODA company
  • SYNPERONIC PE/F 108 FLAKES
  • Example 3 Dose effect and stability As indicated above, emulsion n°2 after two months of preservation at 45°C is not stable ( Figure 1 ).
  • Figure 4 shows a photograph of the state after two months of preservation at 37°C of an emulsion (emulsion n°4) corresponding to emulsion n°2 to which 0.05% of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate (poloxamer 338) was added.
  • emulsion n°4 corresponding to emulsion n°2 to which 0.05% of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate (poloxamer 338) was added.
  • This figure shows that the addition of such a small amount of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate does not enable the emulsion including a high proportion of plant oil to be sufficiently stabilized.
  • Figure 5 shows a photograph of the state after two months of preservation at 45°C of an emulsion (emulsion n°5) corresponding to emulsion n°2 to which 0.1 % of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate (poloxamer 338 sold under the name
  • Figure 6 shows a photograph of the state after two months of preservation at 37°C of an emulsion (emulsion n°6) corresponding to emulsion n°2 to which 0.15% of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate (poloxamer 338 sold under the name SYNPERONIC PE/F 108 (FLAKES) by the CRODA company) was added instead of water.
  • emulsion n°6 an emulsion n°6
  • polyxamer 338 sold under the name SYNPERONIC PE/F 108 (FLAKES) by the CRODA company

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Abstract

This invention relates to an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion including at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and/or at least one sugar ester, characterized in that it includes at least 4%, and preferably at least 6%, of one or more plants oils, and at least 0.1% of one or more ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensates, with the percentages indicating the weight with respect to the weight of the total composition, as well as a cosmetic care method implementing such an emulsion. This invention also relates to a method for stabilizing an O/W emulsion including at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and/or at least one sugar ester and at least 4%, and preferably at least 6%, of one or more plants oils, characterized in that it comprises the addition to the emulsion of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate.

Description

Oil-in-water emulsion including a high plant oil content
This invention relates to an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion including a high plant oil content. The invention relates in particular to an emulsion that can be used as a composition that can be applied topically, and in particular a cosmetic composition.
The invention also relates to the use of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate in an O/W emulsion so as to improve the stability thereof.
Numerous compositions are formulated in the form of O/W emulsions. This is the case in particular of cosmetic compositions. These compositions include an oily phase in which one or more plants oils may be present.
An emulsion is a macroscopically homogeneous but microscopically heterogeneous mixture of an oily liquid (or lipophilic) phase and an aqueous liquid (or hydrophilic) phase, which are non-miscible, such as water and an oil. One phase is dispersed in the second phase in the form of droplets. For an O/W emulsion, the oil is dispersed in the water.
The inventors discovered that the presence of a high plant oil content causes instability of the emulsion appearing during its conversion, in particular when the composition includes one or more oxyalkylene sugar ethers and/or one or more sugar esters.
This problem of stability may cause a drop in viscosity, a very rough microscopic appearance with the presence of oil in the aqueous phase, and/or a more translucent appearance of the composition, which is obviously undesirable.
When seeking to stabilize this type of emulsion, it appears to be difficult to simultaneously obtain stabilization of the emulsion without negatively affecting the sensory qualities of the final composition by the user, and conversely. If the oxyalkylene sugar ether(s) and/or the sugar ester(s) are replaced by other compounds, the sensory qualities are modified, and this is undesirable in the composition of the invention because the texture becomes waxier.
Thus, the invention is intended primarily to solve the technical problem consisting of providing a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of a stable
O/W emulsion, in particular when the emulsion includes a high proportion of plant oil, at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and/or at least one sugar ester.
This invention is also intended to provide such a composition without altering the sensory appearance perceived by the user.
This invention is also intended to identify one or more substances making it possible to stabilize O/W emulsions including a high proportion of plant oil, at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and/or at least one sugar ester, without negatively affecting the sensory qualities of the final composition.
The invention therefore also proposes providing a method for improving the stability of a O/W emulsion as described above.
Thus, the invention relates to an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion including at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether, at least one sugar ester, at least 4%, and preferably at least 6%, of one or more plants oils, and at least 0.1 % of one or more ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensates, with the percentages indicating the weight with respect to the weight of the total composition.
Below, the phrase "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the ranges of values are inclusive.
The ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate is in the hydrophilic phase.
This polycondensate is more specifically a copolymer consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:
H-(0-CH2-CH2)a-(0-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(0-CH2-CH2)a-OH, in which formula a ranges from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100; preferably, a ranges from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80.
The ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate preferably has an average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000, and more preferably ranging from 1500 to
15000, and in particular ranging from 1500 to 10000, and even more preferably ranging from 1500 to 5000 g/mol.
Advantageously, said ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate has a cloud temperature, at 10 g/L in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20°C, preferably greater than or equal to 60°C. The cloud temperature is measured according to ISO standard 1065.
As an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate that can be used according to the invention, it is possible to cite the triblock polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol polycondensates sold under the names "SYNPERONIC" such as "SYNPERONIC® PE/F32" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 108), "SYNPERONIC® PE/F108" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 338), "SYNPERONIC® PE/ L44" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 124), "SYNPERONIC® PE/L42 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 122), "SYNPERONIC® PE/F127" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 407), "SYNPERONIC® PE/F88" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 238), "SYNPERONIC® PE/L 62" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 182), "SYNPERONIC® PE/L64" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 184) by the CRODA company, or "LUTROL® F68" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 188) by the BASF company.
Among the poloxamers, POLOXAMER 338 (wherein, in the formula above: a=128 and b=54) is preferred.
The ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate may, for example, be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1 % by weight and even more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight.
An optimal poloxamer proportion is 0.15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
By oil, we mean a substance comprised of identical or different molecules having hydrophobic and liquid properties at ambient temperature.
By "plant" or "plant origin", we mean a substance extracted or obtained from one or more parts of one or more plants. This therefore rules out, in particular, compounds obtained from an animal.
The plant(s) oil(s) of the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: hydrocarbon oils of plant origin or a mixture of hydrocarbons of plant origin, such as perhydrosqualene, fatty acid liquid triglycerides comprising 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides of plant origin, or sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, sesame, hazelnut, apricot seed, sweet almond, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor, avocado, musk rose, rosehip, grape seed, black currant and jojoba oils; triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids of plant origin such as those sold by the Stearineries Dubois company or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the Dynamit Nobel company, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; linear alkanes of plant origin, preferably including 7 to 14 carbon atoms, and any one of their mixtures. It is possible, for example, to use a mixture of sunflower, sunflower hybrid, musk rose and black currant seed oils, for example, in the proportions 31/60/5,95/3, refined and stabilized (BHT 0.05%), as sold under the name BALANCE LIPIDS 1 A by the NESTLE WORLD TRADE CORPORATION company.
It is considered that 4% by weight of plant oil with respect to the total weight of the composition corresponds to a high plant oil content. Typically, the proportion of plant oil is between 4 and 15% by weight. According to one embodiment, the proportion of plant(s) oil(s) is between 6 and 8%, and is preferably 6.5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The oxyalkylene sugar ether(s) used in this invention are products that are well known in themselves, and they may more specifically be represented by the following general formula (I):
R1 -(G)-(OR2)t-OH (I)
wherein:
R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, alkyl radical, comprising around 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, and even more preferably 1 ;
R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; and
t designates a value ranging from 0 to 25; preferably from 5 to 25; and even more preferably from 15 to 25.
Preferred oxyalkylene sugar ethers according to this invention are compounds of formula (I) wherein R1 more specifically designates a methyl radical, t designates a value ranging from 15 to 25 and more specifically equal to 20, and G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose.
The oxyalkylene sugar ethers may be chosen, for example, from oxyethylene methyl-glucose (20 OE) such as the product sold under the name GLUCAM E-20 HUMECTANT by the Lubrizol company; or oxyethylene methyl-glucose (10 OE) such as the product sold under the name GLUCAM E-10 HUMECTANT by the Lubrizol company.
The oxyalkylene sugar ether(s) may, for example, be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.
Moreover, by "sugar" in this application, we mean compounds that have several times the alcohol function with or without an aldehyde or ketone function and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms, and preferably 5 to 6 carbon atoms. It is possible to cite, in particular, optionally oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) or polyglycerol fatty esters of sugar. The fatty acid and sugar esters may be chosen in particular from the group including the C12 to C22 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, trehalose or methylglucose esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters. It is also possible to cite the sorbitol or sorbitan esters. Preferably, these esters are chosen from the mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, the polyesters and mixtures thereof. As an example, these esters can in particular be chosen from the stearates, behenates, cocoates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates, oleates, laurates and mixtures thereof.
It is possible to use sucrose esters. It is possible to cite, for example, as a sucrose ester, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or di-laurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or di-palmitate, sucrose mono- or di-stearate, sucrose mono-, di-, or tri-oleate, sucrose mono- or di-linoleate, sucrose polyesters such as sucrose pentaoleate, hexaoleate, heptaoleate or octooleate, and mixed esters such as sucrose palmito-stearate.
The oxyalkylene sugar esters used in the invention are in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid and sugar esters. These oxyalkylene sugar esters can be chosen, for example, from the oxyethylene glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate sold under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the Amerchol company.
The sugar ester(s) may, for example, be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight.
The emulsion of the invention typically includes one or more topically acceptable excipients, and optionally one or more active ingredients.
The composition may thus include at least one additional ingredient intended to provide a visual effect (cosmetically active ingredients or cosmetic active agents). It is possible to cite in particular fillers with a soft-focus effect or agents promoting the natural pink coloring of the skin.
The compositions according to this invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants in particular chosen from fatty substances, in particular non-plant or synthetic oils, waxes, organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, hydrophilic or lipophilic, softeners, moistening agents, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti- foaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active substances, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient routinely used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field.
The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax or mixtures thereof. By wax, we mean a compound that is solid or substantially solid at ambient temperature, and of which the melting point is generally greater than 35.
As oils, we may cite, for example, inorganic oils (paraffin oil); synthetic oils such as perhydrosqualene, fatty alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name "Eldew SL-205" by Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters such as C12-C15 alcohol benzoate sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by WITCO, 2- ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name X-TEND 226® by ISP, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids, dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by Cognis), oxyethylene or oxypropylene fatty esters and ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethysiloxanes or PDMS) or fluorinated oils, polyalkylenes, trialkyl trimellitates such as tridecyl trimellitate.
The waxes include, for example, carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene waxes and polymethylene waxes such as that sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by SASOL
The organic solvents include, for example lower alcohols and polyols. These may be selected from glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
The hydrophilic thickeners include, for example, carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides such as for example cross-linked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (C.T.F.A. name polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the Seppic company; 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally cross-linked and/or naturalized, such as poly(2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the Hoechst company under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS" (C.T.F.A. name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 sold by the SEPPIC company (C.T.F.A. name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by the SEPPIC company; cellulosic derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as Xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, silicone polyethers and cationic silicones and mixtures thereof.
The lipophilic thickeners include, for example, synthetic polymers such as poly
C10-C30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name "INTELI MER IPA 13-1 " and "INTELIMER I PA 13-6" by Landec or modified clays such as hectorite and derivatives thereof, such as the products marketed under the name Bentone.
Obviously, a person skilled in the art would take care to select the optional complementary compound(s) cited above and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions according to the invention are not, or substantially not, impaired by the envisaged addition(s).
The O/W emulsions according to the invention may be prepared according to techniques well known to a person skilled in the art. They may in particular be in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex, such as a cream, a milk, or a cream gel; in the form of an aqueous gel; or in the form of a lotion. They may optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of a foam or a spray.
The emulsions according to the invention may also include at least one emulsifying surfactant different from the oxyalkylene sugar ethers, generally chosen from the amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifying surfactants, used alone or in a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained.
For O/W emulsions, it is possible to cite, for example, as emulsifying surfactants, non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylene (more specifically polyoxyethylene) fatty acid and glycerol esters; oxyalkylene fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) fatty acid esters such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylene (oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers.
The compositions according to the invention are applicable in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments for the skin, lips and/or hair, including the scalp, in particular for protection and/or care of the skin, lips, nails and/or hair, and/or for makeup of the skin and/or lips and/or nails.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a makeup and/or sun protection product.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may, for example, be used as a care and/or sun protection product for the face and/or the body with a liquid to semi- liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less unctuous creams, cream gels and pastes. They may optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of foam or spray.
The compositions according to the invention in the form of fluid lotions suitable for vaporization according to the invention are applied on the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurization devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to a person skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", with the aerosol containers including a propellant as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in patents US 4 077 441 and US 4 850 517 (herein included by reference). The compositions packaged as an aerosol according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, the hydrofluorinated compounds dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethylether, isobutane, n-butane, propane, trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
The invention also relates to a method (or process) for stabilizing an O/W emulsion including at least 4%, and preferably at least 6%, of one or more plants oils, at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and/or at least one sugar ester, said method including the addition in the emulsion of at least 0.1 % by weight of at least one ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, said polycondensate preferably being as defined above.
Advantageously, this method makes it possible in particular to preserve the sensory qualities of the O/W emulsion.
By "sensory qualities", it is meant the appearance, odor, color and texture, perceived and/or experienced by the user when looking at, touching or applying the product on the skin, lips, nails and/or hair.
By "preserving the sensory qualities", it is meant not significantly modifying, for the user, the sensory qualities of the composition, and even preserving identical sensory qualities.
The invention also relates to the use of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, in particular as defined in the invention, in an emulsion of the O/W type as defined in the invention, so as to improve its stability.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic care method including the topical application of a O/W emulsion as defined in this invention.
In the figures:
Figure 1 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°2- example 1 ) after two months of preservation at 45°C;
- Figure 2 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion
(emulsion n°2a - example 1 ) after two months of preservation at 45°C;
Figure 3 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°3) including an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, after two months of preservation at 45°C; Figure 4 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°4) with 0.05% by weight of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, after two months of preservation at 37°C;
Figure 5 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°5) with 0.1 % by weight of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, after two months of preservation at 45°C;
Figure 6 shows an electron microscope photography of an O/W emulsion (emulsion n°6) with 0.15% by weight of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate, after two months of preservation at 37°C.
In the examples, all of the percentages are provided by weight, unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated. In the examples, the ingredients are indicated by their INCI name and their amounts are provided as a weight% with respect to the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES
Example 1 : Problem of stability of certain formulations:
The inventors noted that emulsion n°1 , of which the composition is provided in table 1 , is stable, while emulsion n°2, of which the composition is provided in table 1 , is not stable, even though these emulsions had similar compositions (stability measurement performed after two months of preservation at 45°C, according to visual monitoring by microscope). The microscope used is a LEICA DMLB - type: 020-519.508LB100T and the microscope photographs were taken with enlargement x100. Emulsion n°1 and emulsion n°2 differ primarily by the presence of plant oil in emulsion n°2.
Table 1
Figure imgf000010_0001
ACTIVE AGENT HYDROXYETHYLPI PERAZI N E ETHANE
A 1
SULFONIC ACID
A PRESERVATIVE(S) PRESERVATIVE(S) 0.50 0.50
B FATTY SUBSTANCE ISOPROPYL PAL Ml TATE 3
B FATTY SUBSTANCE SHOREA ROBUSTA SEED BUTTER 2
B FATTY SUBSTANCE ISOHEXADECANE 5 5
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED
OIL (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS
(SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL (and) ROSA CANINA
FATTY SUBSTANCE
B FRUIT OIL (and) RIBES NIGRUM (BLACK - 6.50 OF PLANT ORIGIN CURRANT) SEED OIL sold under the name
BALANCE LIPIDS 1 A by NESTLE WORLD
TRADE CORPORATION
B PRESERVATIVE(S) STEARYL ALCOHOL 1.50 1 .50
B SUNSCREEN(S) SUNSCREEN(S) 2 2
B PIGMENT(S) PIGMENT(S) 0.30 0.30
B PERFUME(S) PERFUME(S) 0.30 0.30
C POLYMER XANTHAN GUM 0.20 0.20
POLYACRILAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN
C POLYMER (and) LAURETH-7 sold under the name SEPIGEL 1 1 .20
305 by the SEPPIC company
B SILICONE DIMETHICONE 4 4
D SOLVENT DENAT. ALCOHOL 3 3
A SOLVENT WATER 57.8750 51.2050
A SOLVENT GLYCERIN 15 15
GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100
B SURFACTANT STEARATE sold under the name Arlacel 165 by 1 0.50 the CRODA company
METHYL GLUCETH-20 sold under the name
A SURFACTANT GLUCAM E-20 HUMECTANT by the Lubrizol 2 2
company
SORBITAN STEARATE (and) SUCROSE
B SURFACTANT COCOATE sold under the name ARLACEL 2121- 2.50 3
U-FL-(MV) by the CRODA company
B VITAMIN(S) VITAMI N(S) 0.60 0.60 Such emulsions may be prepared according to the following protocol:
Heating aqueous phase A to 60°C. Heating phase B to 85°C, then cooling it to 65°C. Producing the emulsion by pouring B over A under a turbine. Gelling with phase C. Cooling and finishing by adding alcohol.
It can be noted from figure 1 that, after two months of preservation at 45° C emulsion n°2 is not stable since the oily phase releases hydrophobic compounds into the aqueous phase (presence of vesicles in the aqueous phase). The conclusion is that the presence of a high proportion of plant oil (in this case the mixture of plan oils at 6.5%) produced instability.
Starting with emulsion n°2, an O/W emulsion was prepared (emulsion n°2a) including in addition 3.5% of fatty substance (ISOHEXADECANE) and 3% silicone (DIMETHICONE) instead of 6.5% fatty substance of plant origin.
As can be seen in figure 2, emulsion n°2a, which does not include a high proportion of plant oil is stable under the same conditions.
It was also verified that the other differences between emulsions n°1 and n°2 were not responsible for destabilization.
It was therefore possible to conclude that the presence of a high proportion of plant oil indeed produced instability of the O/W emulsion.
It is particularly interesting to stabilize emulsion n°2, which corresponds to a composition very suitable for protecting sensitive skin. However, this improvement in stability should not be achieved at the expense of the sensory qualities of the resulting composition. This parameter is therefore an additional constraint in the formulation of a stable O/W emulsion.
Example 2 - Addition of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate to stabilize emulsion n°2 (Invention)
For this test, an emulsion n°3 corresponding to the composition of emulsion n°2 was produced in which 0.15% ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate was added instead of water.
After two months of preservation at 45° C, it was noted (figure 3) that emulsion n°3 was stable. The addition of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate therefore made it possible to stabilize an emulsion having a high plant oil proportion.
In addition, a panel of 12 experts was able to assess the sensory qualities of emulsion n°3. It was noted that emulsion n°3 has comparable, sensory qualities, if not identical to those of emulsion n°2 just after its preparation and after it has been preserved over time (2 months, at 45°C). Thus, the sensory qualities of emulsion n°2 were preserved in emulsion n°3.
The addition of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate (POLOXAMER 338 sold under the name SYNPERONIC PE/F 108 (FLAKES) by the CRODA company) stabilizes the emulsion even though the fatty phase includes a high proportion of plant oil.
Example 3 - Dose effect and stability As indicated above, emulsion n°2 after two months of preservation at 45°C is not stable (Figure 1 ).
Figure 4 shows a photograph of the state after two months of preservation at 37°C of an emulsion (emulsion n°4) corresponding to emulsion n°2 to which 0.05% of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate (poloxamer 338) was added. This figure shows that the addition of such a small amount of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate does not enable the emulsion including a high proportion of plant oil to be sufficiently stabilized.
Figure 5 shows a photograph of the state after two months of preservation at 45°C of an emulsion (emulsion n°5) corresponding to emulsion n°2 to which 0.1 % of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate (poloxamer 338 sold under the name
SYNPERONIC PE/F 108 (FLAKES) by the CRODA company) was added instead of water.
Figure 6 shows a photograph of the state after two months of preservation at 37°C of an emulsion (emulsion n°6) corresponding to emulsion n°2 to which 0.15% of an ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate (poloxamer 338 sold under the name SYNPERONIC PE/F 108 (FLAKES) by the CRODA company) was added instead of water.
Conclusion: The results show that the addition of an amount at least equal to 0.1 % of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate in an O/W emulsion containing a high plant oil content (in this case 6.5%), and at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and at least one sugar ester, makes it possible to obtain an emulsion that is stable over time while preserving sensory qualities that are satisfactory to a user.

Claims

1. Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion including at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether, at least one sugar ester, at least 4%, and preferably at least 6%, of one or more plants oils, and at least 0.1 % of one or more ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensates, with the percentages indicating the weight with respect to the weight of the total composition.
2. Emulsion according to claim 1 , characterized in that the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate is a copolymer consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks.
3. Emulsion according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate is a triblock polycondensate having the following chemical structure:
H-(0-CH2-CH2)a-(0-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(0-CH2-CH2)a-OH, wherein a ranges from 2 to 150 and b ranges from 1 to 100; preferably, a ranges from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80.
4. Emulsion according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate preferably has an average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15000, and more preferably ranging from 1500 to 15000, and in particular ranging from 1500 to 10000, and even more preferably ranging from 1500 to 5000 g/mol.
5. Emulsion according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate(s) are POLOXAMER, preferably chosen from POLOXAMER 108, POLOXAMER 338, POLOXAMER 124, POLOXAMER 122, POLOXAMER 407, POLOXAMER 238, POLOXAMER 182, POLOXAMER 184, POLOXAMER 188, and even more preferably POLOXAMER 338.
6. Emulsion according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that the plant oil is a hydrocarbon, of plant origin oil or a mixture of hydrocarbon oils of plant origin.
7. Emulsion according to claim 1 , characterized in that it includes at least 6% of one or more plants oils, at least 0.1 % POLOXAMER 338, at least one oxyalkylene sugar ether and at least one sugar ester, with the percentages being expressed as a weight with respect to the weight of the total composition.
8. Emulsion according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that the oxyalkylene sugar ether(s) have the following general formula (I)
R1 -(G)-(OR2)t-OH (I)
wherein:
R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, alkyl radical, comprising around 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, and even more preferably 1 ;
R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; and
t designates a value ranging from 0 to 25; preferably from 5 to 25; and even more preferably from 15 to 25.
9. Emulsion according to claim 8, characterized in that the oxyalkylene sugar ether(s) are chosen from oxyethylene methyl-glucose (20 OE) and oxyethylene methyl- glucose (10 OE).
10. Emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that the oxyalkylene sugar ether is oxyethylene methyl-glucose (20 OE).
1 1. Emulsion according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that the sugar ester is a sucrose ester, such as, for example, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or di-laurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or di-palmitate, sucrose mono- or di-stearate, sucrose mono-, di-, or tri-oleate, sucrose mono- or di-linoleate, or a sucrose polyesters, such as, for example, sucrose pentaoleate, hexaoleate, heptaoleate or octooleate, or a mixed ester such as, for example, sucrose palmito-stearate.
12. Emulsion according to any one of the previous claims, characterized in that it includes one or more excipients, and optionally one or more active ingredients.
13. Method for stabilizing an O/W emulsion including at least one oxyalkylene glucose ether, at least one sugar ester, and at least 4% of one or more plants oils, said method being characterized in that it comprises the addition to the emulsion of at least 0.1 % by weight of at least one ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensate with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, said polycondensate preferably being as defined in any one of claims 2 to 5.
14. Cosmetic care method characterized in that it comprises the topical application of an O/W emulsion as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.
PCT/EP2012/068406 2011-09-20 2012-09-19 Oil-in-water emulsion including a high plant oil content WO2013041553A1 (en)

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CN108348441A (en) * 2016-10-19 2018-07-31 (株)杰恩宝 The lip for containing natural ceramide and rose hip oil as active ingredient protects the composition that applies some make up
CN111032004A (en) * 2017-12-20 2020-04-17 弗门尼舍有限公司 Oral care compositions
CN111568847A (en) * 2020-05-30 2020-08-25 杭州心悦化妆品有限公司 Emulsion easy to be absorbed by skin and production process thereof

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CN111032004A (en) * 2017-12-20 2020-04-17 弗门尼舍有限公司 Oral care compositions
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CN111568847A (en) * 2020-05-30 2020-08-25 杭州心悦化妆品有限公司 Emulsion easy to be absorbed by skin and production process thereof

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