Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
  • A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/24—Thermal properties

Definitions

• Method for permanent reshaping and in particular for straightening comprising a stage of straightening keratinous fibres employing a composition comprising at least 40 % by weight of non- silicone fatty substances
• the present invention relates to a method for the permanent reshaping and in particular straightening of keratinous fibres, in particular human keratinous fibres, such as the hair, compri sing a stage of application, to the keratinous fibres, of a cosmetic composition comprising one or more non- silicone fatty sub stances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and a stage of heating the keratinous fibres using an iron, after the application of the said cosmetic composition.
• the first of the techniques commonly used to obtain permanent reshaping of the hair consists, in a first step, in opening the - S- S- di sulphide bonds of the keratin (keratocystine) using a composition compri sing a suitable reducing agent (reduction stage) and then, after having rinsed the hair thus treated, generally with water, in reforming, in a second step, the said di sulphide bonds by applying, to the hair, placed under tension beforehand, for example with curlers, an oxidizing composition (oxidation stage, al so known as fixing stage), so as to finally give the hair the desired shape.
• oxidation stage al so known as fixing stage
• Thi s technique thus makes it possible to carry out the waving (permanent-wave method) and/or the straightening (relaxing) of the hair.
• the new shape imposed on the hair by chemical treatment as above is long-lasting and withstands in particular the action of washing with water or with shampoos, in contrast to simple conventional techniques for temporary reshaping, such as hair setting.
• the reducing compositions which can be used for the implementation of the first stage of a permanent reshaping and in particular of a straightening generally compri se, as reducing agents, sulphites, bi sulphites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thiols.
• cysteine and various derivative s thereof cysteamine and derivatives thereof, thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid, and salts thereof and al so esters thereof, especially glyceryl thioglycolate.
• the oxidizing compositions required for performing the fixing step are usually compositions based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution.
• thi s permanent reshaping operation i s generally performed on curly or voluminous hair so as to obtain more or less pronounced straightening and a reduction in the volume and apparent mass of the hair.
• Thi s technique can thus bring about, in the long term, a detrimental change in the quality of the hair, resulting in a decline in its cosmetic properties, such as its gloss, and a deterioration in it s mechanical properties, more particul arly in its mechanical strength, due to swelling of the individual hairs during the rinsing between the reduction stage and the oxidation stage, which may al so be reflected by an increase in the porosity of the individual hairs.
• These di sadvantages are ob served in particular with thioglycolic acid, which i s generally used in a basic medium at pH values of between 8.5 and 9.5.
• the second reaction i a reaction of the dehydroalanine with a thiol group .
• This i because the double bond of the dehydroalanine formed i s a reactive doubl e bond. It can react with the thiol group of the cysteine residue which was released, in order to form a new bond referred to as lanthionine bridge or bond or residue .
• Thi s second reaction i s illustrated by the following reaction scheme.
• thi s lanthionization technique does not require a fixing stage since the formation of the lanthionine bridge i s irreversible. It i s thus carried out in a single stage and makes it possible without di stinction to produce either waving of the hair or the shaping or defrizzing or straightening thereof.
• Thi s technique i s mainly used for the shaping of naturally frizzy hair.
• hydroxides employed during thi s method exhibit the maj or di sadvantage of being caustic .
• Thi s causticity affects the scalp, causing irritation, sometimes severe irritation, and can al so affect the state of the hair by rendering it, on the one hand, harsh to the touch and, on the other hand, much more fragile .
• the use of hydroxides can al so cause, in some cases, bleaching of the natural colour of the hair.
• the Applicant Company has di scovered, surpri singly, that it i s possible to achieve the desired properties by employing a method for the permanent reshaping and in particular straightening or relaxing of keratinous fibres, in particular human keratinous fibres, such as the hair, compri sing a stage of application, to the said keratinous fibres, of a cosmetic composition compri sing one or more non- silicone fatty sub stances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and a stage of heating the said keratinous fibres at a temperature varying from 60 to 250°C using an iron, the said stage occurring after the application of the said cosmetic composition.
• the treatment method according to the invention makes it possible in particular to render the hair straight both to the touch and vi sually, thi s being achieved in a lasting fashion, while conferring good cosmetic properties on it.
• the treatment method according to the invention confers, on the hair, a reshaping and in particular a straightening which i s persi stent with regard to shampooing operations, and al so sati sfactory cosmetic properties .
• the treatment method according to the invention makes it possible to confer a more lasting straightness than a conventional care product, it being possible, for example, for the straightness to be still ob served after approximately twenty shampooing operations.
• the treatment method according to the invention does not require the use of a reducing composition or of a composition based on alkaline active agents and can be carried out on keratinous fibres which may be damaged, thi s being the case without bringing ab out a deterioration in the cosmetic properties or their colours .
• the treatment method according to the invention al so makes it possible to confer, on the hair, sati sfactory cosmetic properties, in particular cosmetic properties which are satisfactory in terms of softness, feel and di sentangling.
• the treatment method according to the invention al so results in a reduction in the volume and in the apparent mass of the hair.
• a stage of application, to the keratinous fibres, of a cosmeti c composition comprising one or more non- silicone fatty sub stances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition, and
• the permanent reshaping i s preferably a straightening of the hair.
• the cosmeti c composition according to the invention compri ses one or more non-silicone fatty sub stances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• fatty sub stance i s understood to mean an organi c compound which i s insoluble in water at standard ambi ent temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), having a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably of less than 1 % and more preferably still of less than 0. 1 % .
• Non-silicone fatty sub stances generally exhibit, in their structure, a hydrocarbon chain compri sing at least 6 carbon atoms.
• fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
• the fatty substance or substances of the invention is or are furthermore nonpolyoxyethylenated and nonpolyglycerolated.
• non-silicone fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a structure which does not comprise more than one silicon atom.
• the fatty substance or substances can be liquid or non-liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
• the liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably exhibit a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still of less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still of less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s, at the temperature 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 .
• non-silicone fatty substance or substances used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, nonsalified fatty acids and their mixtures.
• liquid hydrocarbon means a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
• liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: - linear or branched and optionally cyclic C 6 -Ci6 alkanes.
• Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,
• liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as that sold under the Parleam® trademark by NOF Corporation, or squalane.
• liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons i s or are chosen from liquid petrol atum, i soparaffins, i sododecane or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.
• liquid fatty alcohol i s understood to mean a nonglycerolyated and nonoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which i s liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i . e . 1 .013 x 10 5 Pa) .
• liquid fatty alcohols of the invention compri se from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
• the liquid fatty alcohol s of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
• the saturated liquid fatty alcohol s are preferably branched.
• They may optionally compri se in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
• liquid saturated fatty alcohol s of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, i sostearyl alcohol and 2- hexyldecanol.
• Octyldodecanol i very particularly preferred.
• the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conj ugated or nonconj ugated.
• These unsaturated fatty alcohol s may be linear or branched. They may optionally compri se in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
• liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
• Oleyl alcohol is very particularly preferred.
• liquid fatty esters i s understood to mean an ester resulting from a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol and which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013.10 5 Pa).
• the esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched aliphatic Ci-C 26 mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched Ci-C 2 6 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
• At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
• ethyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate
• alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
• isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
• isodecyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
• Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci-C 22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 4 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
• esters it is preferable, among the abovementioned esters, to use ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, cetyl myri state or 2-octyldodecyl myri state, hexyl stearate, propane glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, i sobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl i sononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
• alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate
• the composition can al so compri se, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars and of C6 - C30 , preferably C 12 - C22 , fatty acids .
• sugar means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and which compri se at least 4 carbon atoms . These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides .
• suitabl e sugars examples include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, manno se, arabinose, xylose and l actose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
• the esters of sugars and of fatty acids can b e chosen in particular from the group consi sting of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars describ ed above and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C6 - C30 , preferably C 12 - C22 , fatty acids . If they are unsaturated, these compounds can compri se from one to three conj ugated or nonconj ugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
• esters according to this variant may al so be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
• esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myri states, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters .
• Glucate® DO a product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which i s a methylglucose dioleate.
• Use may also be made, among the sugar esters, of pentaerythrityl esters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate or hexaesters of caprylic and capric acids as a mixture with dipentaerythritol.
• esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol may also be made of natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol.
• oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include:
• triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid or also, for example, sesame, soybean, coffee, safflower, borage, sunflower, olive, apricot kernel, camellia, bambara groundnut, avocado, mango, rice bran, cottonseed, rose, kiwi seed, seabuckthorn pulp, bilberry, poppy, orange seed, sweet almond, palm, coconut, vernonia, marjoram, baobab, rapeseed, ximenia or pracaxi oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter oil.
• liquid esters according to the invention of triglycerides of vegetable origin, in particular the oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, and their mixtures, and the esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, in particular 1,3-propanediol dicaprylate.
• oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, and their mixtures
• esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols in particular 1,3-propanediol dicaprylate.
• the fatty acid has to be in the form of a soap which is generally soluble, that is to say must not be salified by a base.
• liquid fatty acids can be chosen from acids of formula
• RCOOH where R is a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched radical preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.
• R is a C7-C29 alkyl or C7-C29 alkenyl group and better still a C12-C24 alkyl or C12-C24 alkenyl group.
• R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.
• the liquid fatty acid can be chosen in particular from oleic acid, linoleic acid and isostearic acid.
• the liquid fatty substance or substances is or are chosen from C 6 -Ci6 alkanes which are linear or branched, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters, in particular oils of vegetable origin and esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols.
• the fatty substance or substances used in the composition according to the invention can also be fatty substances which are non- liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
• non-liquid is preferably understood to mean a solid compound or a compound exhibiting a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at the temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 .
• non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and fatty ethers, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.
• non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol). Use will more particularly be made of cetylstearyl alcohol.
• non-liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters mention may in particular be made of the solid esters resulting from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
• esters mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.
• the non-silicone wax(es) is or are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides.
• Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as the glycoceramides which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules which can correspond to the following general formula (I):
• - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, alkyl radical, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this radical possibly being substituted with a hydroxyl group in the a position or a hydroxyl group in the ⁇ position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
• R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) n , (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
• R 3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon radical which is saturated or unsaturated in the a position, this radical possibly being substituted with one or more C 1 -C14 alkyl radicals;
• R3 can also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified by a C16-C30 a-hydroxy acid.
• ceramides that are preferred in the context of the present invention are those described by Downing in Arch. Dermatol., Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French Patent FR 2 673 179.
• the ceramide or ceramides which is or are more particularly preferred according to the invention is or are the compounds in which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acids, R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 3 denotes a saturated linear Ci5 radical.
• Such compounds are, for example:
• Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids
• R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical
• waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as those sold by Sophim under the reference M82, and waxes of polyethylene or of polyolefins in general.
• the non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and especially dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
• the non-silicone fatty substance or substances used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is or are liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
• the fatty substance or substances used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is or are chosen from hydrocarbons, in particular linear or branched C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, and fatty acid esters, in particular oils of vegetable origin and esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C22 alcohol s, liquid fatty alcohol s and more preferably from triglycerides of vegetable origin.
• the non-silicone fatty sub stance or sub stances i s or are chosen from liquid petrolatum, i soparaffins, i sododecane, undecane, tridecane, avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, 1 , 3 -propanediol dicaprylate and their mixtures.
• the non- silicone fatty sub stance or sub stances used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be present in a content ranging from 40 to 100% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 50 to 100% by weight and more preferably still in a content ranging from 75 to 100% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be provided in particular in the form of a gel, cream, paste, foam, spray, lotion or liquid.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be provided in the form of an emul sion, in particular an oil-in-water (O/W), water-in-oil (W/O) or multipl e (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or 0/W/O) emul sion, a microemul sion or a nanoemul sion.
• an emul sion in particular an oil-in-water (O/W), water-in-oil (W/O) or multipl e (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or 0/W/O) emul sion, a microemul sion or a nanoemul sion.
• the cosmetic composition can additionally compri se one or more surfactants.
• the surfactants optionally present in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention are in particular as follows :
• anionic surface-active agent i s understood to mean a surfactant compri sing, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anioni c groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups C0 2 H, CCV , S O 3 H, S0 3 " , O S O 3 H, O S O 3 " , O 2 PO 2 H, O 2 PO 2 H " and
• the anionic surface-active agent or agents which can be used in the compositions of the invention i s or are chosen in particular from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl- sulphonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, a-olefinsulphonates, paraffinsulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, acyli sethionates and N-acyltaurates, polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid and alkyl monoester salts, acyl lact
• Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably compri se from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units .
• the salts of C 6 -24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -24 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C 6 -24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -24 alkyl poly glycoside- sulphosuccinates .
• anionic surface-active agent or agents i s or are in the salt form it i s or they are not in the form of zinc salts and it/they can be chosen from salts of alkali metal s, such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, salts of ammonium, salts of amine s and in particular amino alcohol s, and salts of alkaline earth metal s, such as the magnesium salt.
• alkali metal s such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, salts of ammonium, salts of amine s and in particular amino alcohol s, and salts of alkaline earth metal s, such as the magnesium salt.
• aminoalcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, dii sopropanolamine or trii sopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- l , 3 -propanediol salts and tri s(hydroxymethyl)- aminomethane salts.
• Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
• Use i s preferably made of (C 6 -24)alkyl sulphates, (C 6 -24)alkyl ether sulphates, which are optionally oxyethylenated, compri sing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and their mixtures, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.
• the anionic surface-acting agent or agents is or are chosen from (Cio-2o)alkyl ether sulphates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulphate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.
• the amount of the anionic surface-active agent or agents varies preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• nonionic surface-active agents examples include but not limited to, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.
• They are chosen in particular from alcohols, oc-diols or (Ci_2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50 and it being possible for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30.
• fatty compound for example a fatty acid
• fatty acid denotes, for these surfactants, a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
• the amount of the nonionic surface- active agent or agents varies preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the amphoteric or zwitterioni c surface-active agent or agents that may be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, in which the aliphatic group i s a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxyl ate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group .
• Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20 )alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 alkyl) amido(C3 - 8 alkyl) betaines or (C 8 -C 20 alkyl) amido(C 6 -C 8 alkyl) sulphobetaines. Mention may al so be made, among the derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines as defined above which can be used, of the compounds with the following respective structures (II) and (III) :
• Ra represents a C 10 - C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
• Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group
• Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
• Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
• X' represents the group -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ ' , -CH 2 CH 2 - COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ ' , or a hydrogen atom
• Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ' or the group -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 Z',
• Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
• Ra' represents a Cio-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
• cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surface- active agents it is preferred to use (C 8 -C 20 alkyl) betaines such as cocoyl betaine, and (C 8 -C 20 alkyl) amido(C 2 -C 8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agent or agents is or are chosen from cocoylamidopropyl betaine and cocoyl betaine.
• the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agent or agents is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• cationic surfactant means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention.
• This surface-active agent can carry one or more permanent positive charges or can comprise one or more functional groups which can be converted to cations within the composition according to the invention.
• the cationic surfactant or surfactants is or are preferably selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
• the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Mention may be made, among the fatty amines which can be used according to the invention, for example, of stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
• quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
• the groups R 8 to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to Rn denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
• the aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms, such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens.
• the aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C 1-30 alkyl, C 1-30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C 2 -Ce)alkylene, C 1-30 alkylamide, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkylamido- (C 2 -C 6 )alkyl, (Ci 2 -C 22 ) lkyl acetate and C 1-30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
• X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl sulphates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulphonates or (C 1 -C 4 )- alkylarylsulphonates.
• quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III) those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethyl- ammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearyl- ammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds;
• Ri 2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
• Ri 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
• Ri 4 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group
• R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C4 alkyl group
• X " is an anion chosen from the group of the halogens, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkylsulphonates or alkylarylsulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
• R12 and Rn preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
• R12 and Rn preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
• Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo;
• R 16 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
• R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R 16a )(Rl7a)(Rl8a)N-(CH 2 ) 3 , Riea, Rl7a, Rl8a, Rl8, Rl9, R20 and
• R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates.
• Compounds of this kind are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from Finetex (Quaternium 75),
• R22 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl groups and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;
• R23 is selected from:
• R27 groups which are saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups
• R25 is chosen from: 0
• R-29 groups which are saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C i -C 6 hydrocarbon groups
• R 2 4 , R-26 and R 28 which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 7 - C 2 1 hydrocarb on groups;
• r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
• y i an integer having a value from 1 to 10;
• x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 1 0;
• X " is a simple or complex and organic or inorganic anion
• the alkyl groups R 22 can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
• R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group .
• the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 10.
• R 23 i a hydrocarbon group R 27 , it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
• R 25 is a hydrocarbon group R 2 g, it preferably has from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
• R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C n -C 2 1 hydrocarbon groups and more particularly from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C n -C 2 1 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
• x and z which are identical or different, have the value 0 or 1.
• y is equal to 1.
• r, s and t which are identical or different, have the value 2 or 3 and more particularly still are equal to 2.
• the anion X " is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate.
• a halide chloride, bromide or iodide
• an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate.
• methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible the ammonium comprising an ester functional group.
• the anion X " is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulphate.
• R-22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
• x and y are equal to 1;
• z is equal to 0 or 1;
• r, s and t are equal to 2;
• R-23 is selected from:
• R24, R26 and R-28 which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon groups and preferably from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
• the hydrocarbon groups are advantageously linear.
• acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil . When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may b e identical or different.
• These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, trii sopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldii sopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C 10 - C30 fatty aci ds or with mixtures of C 10 - C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters.
• Thi s esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl halide or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethylsulphate or diethylsulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para- toluenesulphonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
• an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl halide or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethylsulphate or diethylsulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para- toluenesulphonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
• an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl halide or ethyl halide), a dialkyl
• Such compounds are sold, for example, under the name s Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by Rewo-Witco.
• composition according to the invention can comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and tri ester salts, with a predominance by weight of diester salts.
• Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride, provided by Kao under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
• the ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group contain two ester functional groups.
• quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group which may be used, it is preferred to use dip almitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl ammonium salts.
• the amount of the cationic surface- active agent or agents is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants chosen in particular from polyoxyethylenated (Ci_2o)alkylphenols, such as beheneth- 10.
• nonionic surfactants chosen in particular from polyoxyethylenated (Ci_2o)alkylphenols, such as beheneth- 10.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more thickening agents.
• the thickening agent or agents possibly present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from cellulose thickening agents, for example hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and its derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guar, sold by Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105, gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickening agents, such as crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropane- sulphonic acid, for example Carbomer, or nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric associative polymers, such as the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR 1 or TR2 by Goodrich, S alcare SC90 by Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33 , 44 or 46 by Rohm & Haas and Elfacos T210 and T212 by Akzo . Mention may also be made of thickening polymers of polysacchari
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention compri ses one or more nonionic thickening agents, in particular one or more cellulose thickening agents and especially xanthan gum.
• the cosmetic composition compri ses one or more fatty sub stances, in a content of at least 40% by weight, chosen from triglycerides of vegetable origin and one or more nonionic thickening agents .
• the cosmetic composition compri ses one or more non-silicone fatty sub stances, in a content of at least 40% by weight, chosen from triglycerides of vegetable origin, one or more nonioni c thickening agents and one or more nonionic surfactants.
• the cosmetic composition can comprise water. If the composition compri ses water, its content generally varies from 5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight and better still from 5 to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions of the invention can compri se one or more volatile or non-volatile and linear, branched or cyclic silicones.
• silicones preferably polydimethyl siloxanes
• organomodified i s understood to mean silicones carrying functional groups, such as amine, amide, hydroxyl, aryl, carboxyl, phosphate, alkoxy or polyoxyalkylene functional groups.
• the silicones are polydimethyl siloxanes which are optionally aminated and/or polyoxyethylenated.
• the composition can additionally compri se one or more additives chosen from the cosmetic adj uvants and active principles commonly used in the hair field.
• additives are chosen, for example, from conditioning agents, such as cationic polymers, chitosans and their derivatives, vitamins, amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides, hydrolysed or nonhydrolysed and modified or nonmodified proteins, enzymes, organic aci ds other than nonsalified fatty acids, UV screening agents, antioxidants and agents for combating free radical s, chelating agents, antidandruff agents, seborrhoea-regulating agents, soothing agents, hair colouring agents, such as direct dyes, oxidation dye precursors and pigments, aci ds, bases, plasti cizers, fragrances, preservatives, inorganic fillers, pearlescent agents or glitter.
• conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, chitosans and their derivatives, vitamins, amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides
• additives are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be employed on dry or wet hair, preferably on wet hair, with or without a leave-in time.
• the said composition After application of the cosmetic composition according to the invention and before rai sing the temperature of the keratinous fibres using an iron, the said composition can be left to stand for a period of time ranging from 5 to 60 minutes, preferably ranging from 5 to 1 5 minutes .
• the leave-in time can be passed under heat and in particular under an occlusive system.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention i s applied to the keratinous fibres at a level of 0. 1 to 10 grams, preferably of 0.2 to 5 grams, of composition per gram of keratinous fibres.
• the keratinous fibres can be wrung out in order to remove the excess composition.
• the method according to the invention compri ses a stage of heating the hair at a temperature varying from 60 to 250°C, which i s carried out using an iron after application of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
• the heating stage i s necessary to optimize the effects of the method.
• the term "iron” i s understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a device for heating keratinous fibres, the said fibres and the heating device being brought into contact.
• the end of the iron which comes into contact with the keratinous fibres generally exhibits two flat surfaces. These two surfaces can be made of metal. In particular, these two surfaces can b e smooth or crimped.
• the heating stage can be carried out using a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron or a steam iron.
• the heating stage i s performed using a straightening iron.
• the iron can be applied by successive separate strokes lasting a few seconds or by gradual movement or sliding along the locks.
• the iron i s applied in the method according to the invention by a continuous movement from the root to the tip, in one or more passes, in particular in two passes each lasting from 5 seconds to 1 minute.
• the use of the iron during the method according to the invention provides the keratinous fibres with a dry heat and not with a wet heat, which makes possible reshaping and in particular permanent straightening of the keratinous fibres .
• the stage of heating the hair is carried out at a temperature varying from 100 to 250°C, preferably from 190 to 220°C, better still from 200 to 21 5 °C and in particular at a temperature of 210°C, for a period of time which can range from 5 seconds to one hour and preferably from 5 seconds to one minute.
• the straightening method according to the invention can al so compri se an additional stage of predrying after the application of the cosmetic composition and before the stage of heating the keratinous fibres carried out at a temperature ranging from 60 to 250°C, so as to prevent significant releases of vapours which might burn the hands of the hairdresser and the scalp of the person.
• the predrying stage can b e carried out using a hand-held hairdryer or a hood dryer or by drying in the open air.
• the keratinous fibres can optionally be rinsed or washed with a shampoo.
• the keratinous fibres are sub sequently optionally dried using a hand-held hairdryer or a hood dryer.
• the straightening method according to the invention advantageously does not compri se the application of a reducing composition, neither before nor during nor after the application of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
• the cosmetic composition according to the invention i s preferably devoid of reducing agents.
• composition devoid of reducing agents i s understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a composition compri sing less than 1 % by weight of reducing agents, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably a composition not compri sing reducing agents .
• the permanent reshaping method and in particular straightening method according to the invention compri ses a stage of application of a cosmetic composition compri sing one or more non-silicone fatty sub stances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, a stage of carrying out one or more cosmetic treatments of the keratinous fibres, in particular a stage of application of a shampoo to the fibres, and a stage of heating the keratinous fibres using an iron, after application of the said cosmetic composition according to the invention, thi s being done until the desired shape or the desired shape intensity is obtained.
• the cosmetic composition When relaxing or defrizzing the hair, the cosmetic composition is applied to the hair, preferably wet hair, and then the hair is subj ected to a mechanical reshaping, which makes it possible to fix it in its new shape, by an operation of straightening the hair with a wide- toothed comb, with the back of a comb, with the hand or with a brush.
• the stage of heating the hair i s sub sequently carried out at a temperature varying from 60 to 250°C using an iron, preferably a flat iron, as indicated above.
• the treatment method i s carried out on tightly curled or curly hair.
• the present invention al so relates to a kit comprising a cosmetic composition compri sing one or more non-silicone fatty sub stances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight and an iron which provides a temperature varying from 60 to 250°C .
• compositions tested a Compositions compri sing 100% of oils
• compositions (A) to (F) according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as per cent by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions compri sing a mixture of fatty sub stances
• the compositions (G) to (K) according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as per cent by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions compri sing an emul sified oil
• the compositions (L) and (M) according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as per cent by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
• the locks are washed with a shampoo and are then dried.
• a panel of experts compares the effects introduced by the compositions (A) to (M) according to the invention and the reference composition 1 comprising only water.
• composition (A) according to the invention and 12 grams of the reference composition 1 (water) are applied to each half-head of a model having curly hair, and the compositions are left to stand for 10 minutes. After the leave-in time, the hair i s sub sequently wrung out, to remove the excess product, and then the hair i s predried using a hang-held hairdryer at a temperature of 60°C .

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• 2010
  • 2010-12-14 FR FR1060505A patent/FR2968546B1/fr active Active
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