WO2012079910A2 - Produit de teinture de fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Produit de teinture de fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012079910A2
WO2012079910A2 PCT/EP2011/070451 EP2011070451W WO2012079910A2 WO 2012079910 A2 WO2012079910 A2 WO 2012079910A2 EP 2011070451 W EP2011070451 W EP 2011070451W WO 2012079910 A2 WO2012079910 A2 WO 2012079910A2
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fatty acid
agent
amino
acid
agents
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PCT/EP2011/070451
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2012079910A3 (fr
Inventor
Christiane Witte
Hartmut Manneck
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2012079910A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012079910A2/fr
Publication of WO2012079910A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012079910A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to agents for dyeing keratinic fibers containing more specific hydrophobic compounds.
  • color-changing agents For fashionable color design of hairstyles or lamination of gray hair or even white hair with fashionable or natural colors, the consumer accesses to color-changing agents.
  • these agents are intended to cause the least possible damage to the hair, preferably even having additional care properties, and to put the hair in a visually appealing condition.
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors which form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen. The oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results. For temporary dyeings usually dyeing or tinting agents are used which contain as coloring component so-called substantive dyes. These are dye molecules that attach directly to the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint. Due to the color change, in particular by an oxidative color change, however, the hair is severely damaged and often remains in a haptically and optically less appealing state.
  • Agents for color change are often added active ingredients with care properties for the keratinic fiber.
  • these nourishing agents often have the disadvantage that they adversely affect the dyeing performance of the agent.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to lower the abovementioned disadvantages of commercially available means for changing the hair color and to provide means with good, preferably improved dyeing properties and good care properties.
  • agents for the color change of keratinic fibers which, in addition to at least one color-changing compound, furthermore contain at least one more precisely defined hydrophobic compound, have these positive properties.
  • Agent for dyeing keratinic fibers comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-changing compound and, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, at least 0.2 wt .-% of at least one hydrophobic compound selected from a fatty acid ester and / or a Fettklareesterderivat and / or a diol-fatty acid diester, characterized in that the hydrophobic compound contains more than 20 total carbon atoms and at least one branched carbon chain.
  • a first subject of the invention therefore comprises means for dyeing keratinous fibers, comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-changing compound and, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent, at least 0.2 wt .-% of at least one hydrophobic compound selected from a fatty acid ester and / or a fatty acid ester derivative and / or a diol-fatty acid diester, characterized in that the hydrophobic compound contains a total of more than 20 carbon atoms and at least one branched carbon chain.
  • Under keratinic fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand.
  • compositions used for the inventive use contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
  • this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a CC 4 alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as 4-methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given here to all water-soluble organic solvents, in particular 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol and / or diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
  • such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • Preferred carriers are emulsions and gels, with emulsions being particularly preferred.
  • Hydrophobic compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they contain a total of more than 20 carbon atoms and at least one branched carbon chain.
  • the alcohol component may be branched or unbranched.
  • the fatty acid component / fatty acid derivative may be branched or unbranched.
  • Fatty acid esters according to the invention are all esters of a fatty acid component and an alcohol component.
  • fatty acids are monocarboxylic acids whose carbon chain is preferably a C 8 -C 2 4 chain, the carbon chains being linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • suitable monocarboxylic acids are saturated fatty acids, such as 2-ethylhexanoic acid, octanoic acid, decanoic acid, dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid) and 16-methylheptadecanoic acid (isostearic acid), unsaturated fatty acids such as octadecenolic acid (9Z), palmitoleic acid (C16: 1, 9Z), oleic acid (C18: 1, 9Z), elaidic acid (C18: 1, 9E), eicosenoic acid (gondoic acid, C20: 1, 1 12),
  • fatty acid ester derivatives are all esters of a fatty acid derivative and an alcohol component.
  • Inventive fatty acid derivatives are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acids which are substituted.
  • substitution means at least one functionalized group, preferably at least one functionalized hydroxy group.
  • Preferred functionalized hydroxy groups according to the invention are acylated or alkylated.
  • the hydroxy groups can in turn be functionalized with further fatty acids.
  • a particularly preferred fatty acid derivative is 12-Ste a roy I stearic acid.
  • the carbon chain of the fatty acid is an alkyl, an-alkyl, an alkenyl or an alkoyl-alkyl chain.
  • Alkyl chains are those carbon chains that are linear or branched, and saturated.
  • the so-alkyl chains according to the present invention are alkyl chains having an additional methyl group on the penultimate carbon atom of the main chain.
  • Alkenyl chains are those carbon chains which are linear or branched, and unsaturated, which carbon chain can be both mono- or polyunsaturated.
  • Alkoyl-alkyl chains according to the present invention are alkyl chains having at least one additional acylated hydroxy group.
  • the carbon chains of the alcohol component can be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the carbon chain of the alcohol is branched.
  • Preferred alcohols have chain lengths of 4 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Particularly preferred branched alcohols are / so-decyl alcohol and 2-octadecanol.
  • a particularly preferred linear alcohol is hexadecan-1-ol.
  • Diol fatty acid diesters according to the invention are all esters of two fatty acid components - as defined above - and a diol component.
  • the two fatty acid components of the diol-fatty acid diester may independently be the same or different fatty acids.
  • Diols according to the invention are all aliphatic, linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chains having two hydroxy functions.
  • a particularly preferred diol is 2,2, -dimethyl-1,3-propanediol (neopentyl glycol).
  • hydrophobic compound selected from cetyl ethylhexanoate, isodecyl oleate, neopentyl glycol diethyl hexonate and / or octadecyl stearoyl stearate.
  • the inventive composition contains the hydrophobic compound in a proportion of 0.2 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the Total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the agent according to the invention also contains at least one color-changing compound.
  • the color-changing compound is selected from at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or a precursor of a naturally-analogous dye and / or a direct-acting dye and / or a brightener.
  • the agent contains as color-changing compound at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the dyeing formulations contain at least one developer component and optionally at least one coupler component.
  • the developer components can form the actual dyes with one another, but preferably with coupler components.
  • the colorants of the present invention contain at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the oxidation dye precursors are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.
  • the developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides and hydrobromides or the sulfates.
  • developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other. Although the molar use has proven to be expedient, so a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not detrimental, so that Developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3, in particular 2: 1 to 1: 1, may be included.
  • Suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are p-phenylenediamine and its derivatives.
  • Preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2 - hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • Preferred binuclear developer components are selected from ⁇ , ⁇ '-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, N, N'-bis ( 4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane and bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and Amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, preferably from 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-4-chlorophenol and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • pyrazolopyrimidines in particular pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines are preferred.
  • developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazole - 1-yl) propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • m-phenylenediamine derivatives naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used.
  • (F) pyridine derivatives in particular 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 3,5-diamino 2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
  • (M) Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • coupler components according to the invention are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diamino-phenoxy) propane , 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6- Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 1-naphthol and one of their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Developer-type and coupler-type oxidation dye precursors are particularly preferably used in certain combinations.
  • other dye precursors can also be combined with the oxidation dye precursors and / or their physiologically acceptable salts mentioned as a combination: p-toluenediamine / resorcinol; p-toluenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol; p-toluenediamine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol; p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol; p-toluenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; p-toluenediamine / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; p-toluenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; p-toluenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; p-toluenediamine
  • the agents according to the invention comprise at least one precursor of a naturally-analogous dye.
  • precursors of naturally-analogous dyes such indoles and indolines are preferably used which have at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 2,3-dioxoindoline (isatin) and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • a particularly preferred derivative of indole is 5,6-dihydroxyindole and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the indole or indoline derivatives in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, in each case based on their total weight.
  • the agents for use according to the invention may contain at least one substantive dye.
  • These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those referred to as Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems which are substituted by a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and HC Blue 16, as well as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1.
  • the optionally contained substantive dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as these do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.
  • direct dyes also occurring in nature dyes are used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu and alkano root are included.
  • the development of the color can in principle be done with atmospheric oxygen.
  • a chemical oxidizing agent is used, especially if, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired.
  • a further embodiment of the invention is therefore an agent which additionally contains an oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products of organic and inorganic compounds.
  • Suitable solid addition products according to the invention are in particular the addition products of urea, melamine, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and sodium borate in question.
  • Hydrogen peroxide is preferably used as oxidizing agent.
  • the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the ready-to-use agent is preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 6% by weight, in each case based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • the ready-to-use agent is prepared from a color change preparation and an oxidizer preparation just prior to use.
  • Such oxidizer formulations are preferably aqueous, flowable oxidizer formulations.
  • preferred preparations are characterized in that the flowable Oxidizing agent preparation, based on its weight, 40 to 90 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 85 wt .-%, particularly preferably 55 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably 60 to 77.5 wt .-% and in particular 65 to 75 Wt .-% water.
  • the color-changing agent can also be applied to the hair as an oxidation colorant together with a catalyst which promotes the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated.
  • a catalyst which promotes the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated.
  • catalysts are z.
  • the means, in particular the oxidizing agent preparations contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent.
  • Chelate complexing agents which are preferred in the context of the present invention are, for example, polycarboxylic acids, nitrogen-containing monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in particular ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), geminal diphosphonic acids, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), Aminophosphonic acids such as ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP) and diethylenetriaminepenta (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), phosphonopolycarboxylic acids such as 2-phosphonobutane-1, 2,4-tricarboxylic acid and cyclodextrins, alkali stannates (sodium stannate), al
  • Preferred brightening agents are bleaching power enhancers. These include peroxo salts, silica compounds and in particular cationized heterocycles.
  • the bleach booster is preferably selected from ammonium persulfate, alkali metal persulfates, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxodiphosphates and alkaline earth metal peroxides.
  • Particularly preferred bleach boosters are ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxodiphosphate, magnesium peroxide and barium peroxide.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which contain as bleaching power intensifier at least one inorganic salt selected from peroxodisulfates.
  • compositions of the invention contain at least two different peroxodisulfates.
  • Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate.
  • persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts is generally carried out in the form of an optionally dedusted powder.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain, instead of and / or in addition to the solid peroxo salts, a further bleaching power enhancer.
  • bleaching force enhancers it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid.
  • Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups.
  • polyacylated alkylenediamines in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N- Acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or i-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy- 2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • TAED tetraacet
  • At least one optionally hydrated Si0 2 compound may additionally be added to the composition according to the invention.
  • the optionally hydrated Si0 2 - compounds in amounts of 0.05 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably in amounts of 0.15 wt .-% to 10 wt .-% and completely particularly preferably used in amounts of from 0.2 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, each based on the anhydrous composition according to the invention.
  • the optionally hydrated Si0 2 compounds the present invention is in principle not limited. Preference is given to silicic acids, their oligomers and polymers and their salts.
  • the optionally hydrated Si0 2 compounds can be in various forms available.
  • the Si0 2 compounds are preferably used in the form of silica gels (silica gel) or as water glass.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are water glasses.
  • Waterglasses which are particularly preferred according to the invention are sold under the names Ferrosil 1 19, soda waterglass 40/42, Portil A, Portil AW, Portil W and Britesil C20.
  • Suitable bleach boosters of the cationized heterocyclic type are, in particular, physiologically tolerable salts of acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium and N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium, particularly preferably 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, 4-Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and N-methyl-3,4-dihydroisoquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate.
  • the brightening agents are contained in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably formulated as flowable preparations. These include in particular emulsions, suspensions and gels, more preferably emulsions.
  • the flowable preparations preferably additionally comprise as surface-active substance an emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances depending on the field of use being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers and being selected from anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group
  • a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Means further at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • Amphoteric surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 2 4-alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one COOH or SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • amphoteric surfactants are sold under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate with the trade names Miranol C2M SF conc. (Rhodia), Amphoterge K-2 (Lonza) and Monateric CEM-38 (Unichema) and designation Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate with the trade names Dehyton (Cognis), Miranol C2M (Rhodia) and Ampholak XCO 30 (Akzo Nobel). Furthermore, it has proved to be advantageous if the dyeing or whitening agents according to the invention contain nonionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Example a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and Polyglykoletherdung.
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides, in particular C 8 -C 2 2-alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs.
  • the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have been found.
  • Especially preferred according to the invention are saturated or unsaturated C 10 -C 2 fatty alcohols having in each case 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol (for example laureth-2 or ceteareth-20). Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are used in total amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent ,
  • cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type are ammonium halides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates.
  • Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further excipients and auxiliaries, for example associative polymers with fatty alkyl chain, cationic polymers, nonionic polymers (vinylpyrrolidinone-vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes); zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers); anionic polymers (polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidine / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl male
  • the preparations preferably contain the other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives in amounts of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the agents according to the invention have a pH in the range from 4 to 12.
  • the use of the colorants takes place in an alkaline medium, preferably at a pH in the range of 8.0 to 11.0, and more preferably 9.5 to 10.5.
  • the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia.
  • Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as, for example, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids.
  • Organic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from alkanolamines selected from 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1, 3 diol, monoisopropanolamine and triethanolamine.
  • the basic amino acids are preferably selected from arginine and lysine.
  • Inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate, preferably sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide.
  • another preferred alkalizing agent is ammonia.
  • Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are selected from monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine and / or ammonia.
  • the compositions according to the invention can also be prepared directly before use from two or more separately packaged preparations. This is particularly useful for the separation of incompatible ingredients to avoid premature reaction.
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising at least two separately assembled containers, wherein
  • a second container C2 at least one agent M2 comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and the adducts of hydrogen peroxide with organic and inorganic compounds,
  • the hydrophobic compound of the agent M1 contains, characterized in that the hydrophobic compound of the agent M1 contains a total of more than 20 carbon atoms and at least one branched carbon chain.
  • container is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally reclosable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet, a sachet or similar wrappings.
  • the wrapping material according to the invention are no limits. However, these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.
  • kit-of-parts contains at least one further hair treatment agent in a separate container, in particular a conditioner preparation or a bleaching powder with peroxodisulfates.
  • packaging unit application aids, such as combs, brushes, Applicetten or brush, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use.
  • An applicette is understood to mean a broad brush, with a handle at the end of the handle Tip is that allows the separation of fiber bundles or strands of the total amount of fibers and simplifies.
  • the dyeing composition contains as color-changing compound at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts)
  • what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
  • the means of the first subject of the invention can be used in methods of changing the color of human hair.
  • an agent of the first subject of the invention is applied to the hair and left in the hair for a period of 3 to 45 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes. Subsequently, the hair is rinsed with water and / or a commercial shampoo.
  • the application and reaction temperature of the color change preparation is room temperature up to 45 ° C.
  • the effect of the color change preparation may be enhanced by external heat input, such as by means of a heat cap.
  • the preferred exposure time of the color change preparation to the keratinic fiber is 3 to 45 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes. After completion of the exposure time, the remaining color-changing agent is washed out of the keratinic fibers with the aid of a cleaning preparation or water. After washing, the keratinic fibers are optionally dried with a towel or a hot air blower.
  • the application of the color change preparation is usually done by hand by the user.
  • Personal protective clothing is preferably worn here, in particular suitable protective gloves, for example made of plastic or latex for single use (disposable gloves) and optionally an apron. But it is also possible to apply the color changing agent with an application aid on the keratinic fibers.
  • the ready-to-use color-changing agent is prepared by mixing the agent (M1) with the agent (M2) of the multi-component packaging unit of the second subject invention, applied to the keratinic fibers, left in the hair for a certain exposure time, and then the hair with water and / or or rinsed with a commercial shampoo.
  • Another object of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an agent of the first subject of the invention for improving the staining performance and / or care of keratinic fibers in the dyeing of the fibers.
  • Emulgade® F (INCI Names: Cetearyl Alcohol (70 - 85%), PEG-40 Castor Oil (10 - 20%), Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate (5 - 10%)
  • the ready-mixed compositions according to Example 1 to 4 were each mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with an oxidizing agent preparation according to Example 5 and applied to the hair.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit pour teindre des fibres kératiniques, comprenant dans un excipient cosmétique au moins un composé de changement de couleur et, par rapport au poids total du produit prêt à l'emploi, au moins 0,2 % en poids d'au moins un composé hydrophobe, sélectionné parmi un ester d'acide gras et/ou un dérivé d'ester d'acide gras et/ou un diol-diester d'acide gras, le composé hydrophobe contenant, au total, plus de 20 atomes de carbone et au moins une chaîne de carbone ramifiée. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation du produit dans un procédé de teinture capillaire et un procédé d'application du produit.
PCT/EP2011/070451 2010-12-15 2011-11-18 Produit de teinture de fibres kératiniques WO2012079910A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102010063170.1 2010-12-15
DE201010063170 DE102010063170A1 (de) 2010-12-15 2010-12-15 Mittel zum Färben keratinischer Fasern

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WO2012079910A2 true WO2012079910A2 (fr) 2012-06-21
WO2012079910A3 WO2012079910A3 (fr) 2012-10-11

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2857590B1 (fr) * 2003-07-17 2006-01-27 Oreal Composition cosmetique de soin ou de maquillage des matieres keratiniques comprenant un polyester et utilisations
DE102006020050A1 (de) * 2006-04-26 2007-10-31 Henkel Kgaa Aufhell-und/oder Färbemittel mit mehreren Ameisensäureestern und/oder Imidoameisensäureestern
JP2008094820A (ja) * 2006-10-16 2008-04-24 Estate Chemical Kk 酸化染毛剤
ITMI20072336A1 (it) * 2007-12-14 2009-06-15 Gamma Croma Spa Procedimento per la preparazione di prodotti cosmetici

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WO2012079910A3 (fr) 2012-10-11

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