EP3280386A1 - Colorants d'oxydation contenant une association de copolymères à blocs silicone et de phospholipides - Google Patents

Colorants d'oxydation contenant une association de copolymères à blocs silicone et de phospholipides

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Publication number
EP3280386A1
EP3280386A1 EP16701599.9A EP16701599A EP3280386A1 EP 3280386 A1 EP3280386 A1 EP 3280386A1 EP 16701599 A EP16701599 A EP 16701599A EP 3280386 A1 EP3280386 A1 EP 3280386A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
formula
radical
amino
agent
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP16701599.9A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Sylvia KERL
Camille Grosjacques
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3280386A1 publication Critical patent/EP3280386A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic agents for coloring keratinic fibers containing silicone block copolymers and phospholipids. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a packaging unit (kit-of-parts), a method for dyeing keratinic fibers and the use of the cosmetic compositions of the invention and the packaging unit according to the invention for increasing the chroma of color shades.
  • the change in the shape and color of hair represents an important area of modern cosmetics.
  • the appearance of the hair can be adapted to current fashion trends as well as to the individual needs of the individual consumer.
  • the fashionable color design of hairstyles or the lamination of gray or white hair with fashionable or natural tones is usually done with color-changing agents. These agents are in addition to a high staining performance additional properties, such as increasing the hair volume, have.
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting dyeing results. For naturally acting dyeings, however, it is usually necessary to use a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors; In many cases, direct dyes are still used for shading.
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called direct drawers as coloring component. These are dye molecules that grow directly onto the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than oxidative dyeings, so that much earlier an often undesirable change in shade or a visible homogeneous color loss occurs. Finally, another dyeing process has received much attention. In this method, precursors of the natural hair dye melanin are applied to the substrate, eg hair; These then form naturally-analogous dyes in the course of oxidative processes in the hair.
  • 5,6-dihydroxyindoline is used as the dye precursor.
  • agents with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline it is possible to restore the natural hair color in persons with graying hair.
  • the coloration can be carried out with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant, so that can be dispensed with further oxidizing agent.
  • 5,6-dihydroxyindoline can be used as the sole dye precursor.
  • satisfactory results can often only be achieved for use in persons with originally red and, in particular, dark to black hair color, by using other dye components, in particular special oxidation dye precursors.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for changing the color of keratinous fibers, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • w is a direct bond or a heteroatom selected from the group of
  • x, y and z each independently represent a substituted or unsubstituted O-
  • Ri is a substituted or unsubstituted C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical
  • R2 and R3 are each independently, substituted or unsubstituted
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a Ci-C4-Alkyrest
  • R4 and R6 are each independently, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of the formula * - (CH 2) c COOM, wherein c is an integer from 1 to 3 and M is hydrogen or a physiologically acceptable cation , stand,
  • R5 is a Cs-C22 alkyl radical, a Cs-C22 alkenyl radical, a C8-C22 radical
  • M is a physiologically acceptable cation
  • a chemical bond marked with the symbol " * " stands for a free valence of the corresponding structural fragment.
  • Free valence here means the number of atomic bonds which can be obtained from the corresponding structural fragment at the go out of the " * " marked position.
  • an atomic bond preferably proceeds from the positions of the structural fragments marked with the symbol " * " to form further structural fragments.
  • keratinic fibers or also keratin fibers is understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and human hair, In the context of the present invention it is particularly preferred if the cosmetic agents are used for dyeing human hair.
  • color change in the context of the present invention, the change in natural hair color using dyes that are able to form a color on the hair, understood.
  • block copolymer in the context of the present invention is understood to mean a block copolymer of different monomers (M1, M2, M3, etc.), the polymer being formed by linking polymer blocks which are produced from the individual monomers and therefore by the general formula - (M1) x - (M2) y - (M3) z - the variables can be described in x, y and z are in this case for the number of repeating units of the respective monomer in the respective polymer block.
  • physiologically compatible ions is understood to mean both anions and cations which have no negative influence on the physical and biochemical processes of living beings.
  • fatty alcohols is understood as meaning aliphatic, long-chain, monohydric, primary alcohols which have unbranched hydrocarbon radicals having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • the hydrocarbon radicals may be saturated or monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.
  • fatty acids in the context of the present invention is understood as meaning aliphatic monocarboxylic acids with unbranched carbon chain which have hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • the hydrocarbon radicals can be either saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated.
  • the statement of the total amount in relation to the components of the cosmetic agent according to the invention relates in the present case - unless stated otherwise - to the total amount of active substance of the respective component. Furthermore, the indication of the total amount in relation to the components of the cosmetic product according to the invention relates to Unless otherwise stated - on the total weight of the oxidant-free cosmetic product according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair can be used.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions comprising a C 1 -C 4 alcohol in a total amount of from 3 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents such as methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether.
  • organic solvents such as methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains as the first essential component a) a compound selected from the group of oxidation dye precursors (OFV), substantive dyes (DZ) and mixtures thereof.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories, so-called developer components and coupler components. Developer components can form the actual dye with themselves. They may therefore be included as sole compounds in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the present invention contain at least one type of oxidation dye precursor of the developer type.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor. Particularly good results with respect to the coloring of keratinic fibers are obtained when the according to the invention, at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the developer and coupler components are usually used in free form.
  • cosmetic agents which contain the developer and / or coupler components in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. , in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it comprises an oxidation dye precursor of the developer and / or coupler type in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition contains.
  • Suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are, for example, p-phenylenediamine and its derivatives.
  • Preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group which is formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloropiphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethylbenzenediamine.
  • p-phenylenediamine N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine and N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • Preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, preferably from 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-4-chlorophenol and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • a preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts.
  • pyrazolopyrimidines in particular pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines are preferred.
  • Preferred oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are selected from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine,
  • developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H - Imidazol-1 -yl) -propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention as oxidation dye precursor additionally contains, in addition to at least one developer component, additionally at least one coupler component.
  • coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used.
  • Coupler components preferred according to the invention are selected from
  • (F) pyridine derivatives in particular 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 3,5- Diamino-2,6-dimethoxy-pyridine,
  • (M) Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • Coupler components preferred according to the invention are selected from the group formed from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4 -chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - (
  • coupler components according to the invention are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diamino-phenoxy) propane , 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 1-naphthol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as oxidation dye precursor at least one developer component selected from the group of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino p-phenylenediamine, 1, 3- bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl-4 'aminophenyl) amino] -propan-2-ol, 1, 10-bis (2', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4, 7,10-tetraoxadecane, 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6 -triaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof, and at least
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one substantive dye.
  • Direct dyes are dyes that are applied directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the dye. Direct dyes are usually nitro phenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those referred to as Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14 as well as aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and HC Blue 16, as well as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1. HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, and 1, 4-Diamino-2 nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4- Bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl ) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino 4-
  • direct dyes also occurring in nature dyes are used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu and alkano root are included.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention preferably contains the substantive dyes in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one specific silicone block copolymer.
  • This special silicone block copolymer in conjunction with a phospholipid leads to an improved chroma of color shades, so that a smaller amount of dyes or dye precursors, such as developer components, coupler components, substantive dyes and mixtures thereof, must be used to an identical chroma to obtain as with the use of cosmetic agents without silicone block copolymer and phospholipid.
  • w is a direct bond or an oxygen atom
  • x is a C 2 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • y and z are each independently a C 1 -C 3 -alkyl group
  • R 1 and R 2 are each independently of one another, for a hydroxypropyl radical.
  • the radical R3 is a hydrogen atom and a is an integer from 4 to 25, preferably from 6 to 20, preferably from 8 to 18, in particular from 12 to 16, stands.
  • the silicone block copolymer b) particularly preferably contains at least one structural unit (Ia)
  • w is a direct bond or an oxygen atom.
  • the cosmetic composition contains as silicone block copolymer b) a silicone block polymer of the formula (IV)
  • w is a direct bond or an oxygen atom
  • x is propyl
  • y and z are each independently of one another, represent a methyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 are each independently of one another, represent a 2-hydroxypropyl radical
  • R3 is hydrogen
  • a represents integers from 4 to 25, preferably from 6 to 20, preferably from 8 to 18, in particular from 12 to 16.
  • silicone block copolymers of the formula (IV) in combination with a phospholipid results in improved chroma of color shades.
  • the at least one silicone block copolymer b) comprises a silicone block copolymer of polyethylene glycol bis (2-methyl-2-propen-1-yl) ether, 3- [3- [bis ( 2-hydroxypropyl) amino] -2-hydroxypropoxy] propylsiloxane and dimethylsiloxane.
  • a very particularly preferred silicone block copolymer in the context of this embodiment is a block copolymer with the INCI name bis-diisopropanolamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer (CAS number 1253692-80-6).
  • Such block copolymers are sold, for example, under the trade name Dow Corning CE-841 1 Smooth Emulsion Plus from Dow Corning.
  • the at least one silicone block copolymer b) is present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 8.0% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 1, 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the use of the abovementioned total amount of the at least one specific silicone block copolymer, in combination with the phospholipid, leads to improved chroma of color shades.
  • the aforementioned amounts of the specific silicone block copolymer ensure that no incompatibilities with other ingredients of the cosmetic composition according to the invention occur, so that a high storage stability of the cosmetic products is ensured when using these amounts.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one specific phospholipid.
  • This special phospholipid in conjunction with the above-mentioned silicone block copolymer leads to improved chroma of color shades, so that a smaller amount of dyes or dye precursors, such as developer components, coupler components, direct dyes and their mixtures must be used to a to obtain the same chroma as when using cosmetics without phospholipid and silicone block copolymer.
  • the cosmetic agent contains as phospholipid c) a phospholipid of the formula (Phos-Ia)
  • M stands for a sodium ion
  • b is the integer 0 or 1
  • phospholipids of the formula (Phos-Ia) in combination with the previously cited silicone block copolymer, in particular the silicone block copolymer of the formula (IV), results in improved chroma of color shades.
  • the amount of dye used compared to cosmetic agents that do not contain the aforementioned combination can be significantly reduced, but without affecting the chroma of the corresponding shades negatively.
  • a very particularly preferred phospholipid in the context of this embodiment is a phospholipid with the INCI name Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate.
  • Such phospholipids are marketed, for example, under the trade name Arlasilk Phospholipid EFA by Croda.
  • the at least one phospholipid c) is present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 2.0% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition containing.
  • the use of the abovementioned total amount of the at least one specific phospholipid in combination with the abovementioned silicone block copolymer leads to improved chroma of color shades.
  • the aforementioned amounts of the specific phospholipid ensure that no incompatibilities with other ingredients of the cosmetic composition according to the invention occur, so that a high storage stability of the cosmetic products is ensured when using these amounts.
  • preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention additionally contain dimethylcyclosiloxane in a total amount of less than 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, wherein the dimethylcyclosiloxane has the formula (V)
  • z represents integers from 2 to 10, preferably from 4 to 10, in particular from 6, 7 or 8.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain other active ingredients and additives. It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention if the cosmetic agent additionally contains at least one further compound selected from the group of (i) thickeners; (ii) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 8 to 20 carbon atoms; (iii) surfactants, especially amphoteric surfactants; (iv) alkalizing agents; (v) oils; and (vi) their mixtures.
  • the cosmetic agent additionally contains at least one further compound selected from the group of (i) thickeners; (ii) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 8 to 20 carbon atoms; (iii) surfactants, especially amphoteric surfactants; (iv) alkalizing agents; (v) oils; and (vi) their mixtures.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferably formulated as flowable preparations.
  • the cosmetic products should be formulated in such a way that they can be applied and distributed well on the one hand, but on the other hand they are sufficiently viscous so that they remain at the site of action during the exposure time and do not run away.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one thickener selected from the group of (i) anionic, synthetic polymers; (ii) cationic synthetic polymers; (iii) naturally occurring thickening agents, such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives, such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives, such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; (iv) nonionic synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; (v) inorganic thickening agents, especially phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially
  • At least one naturally occurring thickener in particular xanthan gum and salts thereof, in a total amount of from 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably as a thickener from 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol having 8 to 20 carbon atoms is selected from the group of myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), cetearyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol , Arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -eicosa-5,8,1 1, 14-tetraen-1-ol), preferably 2-octyldodecanol and / or cetearyl alcohol, and in a total amount of 1, 0 to 35 wt .-%, preferably from 5.0 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 10 to 25 Wt .-%, in particular from 12 to 20 wt .
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention may preferably further comprise at least one partial ester of a polyol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and linear saturated carboxylic acids having 12 to 30, in particular 14 to 22, carbon atoms, wherein the partial esters may be hydroxylated, in a total amount of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Such partial esters are in particular the mono- and diesters of glycerol or the monoesters of propylene glycol or the mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol or the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol, each with linear saturated C 12 -C 30 -carboxylic acids which hydroxylates in particular those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters of C12-C30 linear saturated carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids and the like Methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear saturated C 12 -C 30 -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise at least one polyol partial ester selected from glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glycerol distearate, glycerol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol monopalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate and mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glyceryl distearate and Glycerindipalmitat in a total amount of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition containing.
  • the use of the abovementioned alcohols, partial esters and polypartial esters in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be particularly preferred when the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one surfactant.
  • Surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety.
  • a basic property of surfactants and Emulsifiers is the oriented absorption at interfaces as well as the aggregation to micelles and the formation of lyotropic phases.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain at least one amphoteric surfactant in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 () group.
  • amphoteric surfactants the following compounds are particularly preferred in the context of the present invention:
  • Alkylbetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group
  • Amidopropylbetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the acyl group
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain as surfactant at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from amidopropylbetaines having 9 to 13 carbon atoms in the acyl group, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular of 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.5 to 6.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • the ethoxylated nonionic surfactants here are different from the previously mentioned ethoxylated primary alcohols. It has proved to be particularly advantageous if the ethoxylated nonionic surfactant has an HLB value above 10, preferably above 13. For this purpose, it is necessary that the nonionic surfactant has a sufficiently high degree of ethoxylation.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention therefore contains, as the ethoxylated nonionic surfactant, at least one ethoxylated surfactant having at least 12 ethylene oxide units.
  • the ethoxylated nonionic surfactant in particular lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, the addition products of 20 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil are particularly suitable according to the invention.
  • the at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, cetea- reth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and Ceteareth-30.
  • Cosmetic agents in the context of the present invention generally have a basic pH, in particular between pH 8.0 and pH 12. These pHs are required to ensure opening of the outer cuticle (cuticle) and to allow penetration of the oxidation dye precursors and / or the oxidizing agent into the hair.
  • the adjustment of the aforementioned pH can preferably be carried out using an alkalizing agent.
  • the alkalizing agent is selected from the group of (i) inorganic alkalizing agents; (ii) organic alkalizing agents; and (iii) mixtures thereof, and in a total amount of from 1.5 to 9.5% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 8.5% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 8.0% by weight. %, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are selected from the group consisting of ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, ie aqueous solutions of ammonia, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate and mixtures thereof.
  • Ammonia or ammonium hydroxide is a particularly preferred alkalizing agent. Particularly preferred is ammonia in a total amount of 0, 1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 7.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic By means of, included.
  • Preferred organic alkalizing agents are selected from at least one alkanolamine.
  • Alkanolamines which are preferred according to the invention are selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-amino-butan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (monoisopropanolamine), 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl propanol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2 -methylpropane-1,3-diol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, N, N-dimethyl-ethanolamine, triethanol
  • alkanolamines are selected from the group of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1, 3-diol and triethanolamine.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise a mixture of monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1ol.
  • the at least one alkanolamine in a total amount of 0.05 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • organic alkalizing agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from basic amino acids, more preferably selected from the group which is formed from L-amino acids. Arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine and mixtures thereof.
  • Basic amino acids which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from L-arginine, D-arginine and D / L-arginine.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise at least one alkalizing agent other than alkanolamines and ammonia in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent ,
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise, as alkalizing agents, a mixture of at least two different alkalizing agents, in particular monoethanolamine and ammonia, in a total amount of from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. -%, In particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the pH of the cosmetic compositions of the invention measured at 22 ° C, 8 to 13, preferably 9.5 to 12, preferably 10 to 1 1, 5, in particular 10.5 to 1 1.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one oil selected from the group of sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil and theirs Mixtures, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic By means of, included.
  • the care effect of the nonionic linear silicone polymers can be further enhanced.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain grape seed oil in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
  • Cosmetic agents for the color change of keratinous fibers containing in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle - based on their total weight - a) 0.005 to 25 wt .-% of at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or direct dye described above
  • Cosmetic agents for the color change of keratinous fibers containing in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle - based on their total weight - a) 0.005 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0, 1 to 15 wt .-% at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or direct dye described above
  • w is a direct bond or a heteroatom selected from the group of
  • x, y and z each independently represent a substituted or unsubstituted O-
  • Ri is a substituted or unsubstituted C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical
  • R2 and R3 are each independently, substituted or unsubstituted
  • R3 is hydrogen or a Ci-C4-Alkyrest
  • R4 and R6 are each independently, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of the formula * - (CH 2) c COOM, wherein c is an integer from 1 to 3 and M is hydrogen or a physiologically acceptable cation , stand,
  • Rs is a Cs-C22 alkyl radical, a Cs-C22 alkenyl radical, a C8-C22 radical
  • b stands for integers from 0 to 3
  • M is a physiologically acceptable cation
  • Cosmetic agents for the color change of keratinous fibers containing in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle - based on their total weight - a) 0, 1 to 15 wt .-% of at least one previously described oxidation dye precursor and / or direct dye
  • w is a direct bond or a heteroatom selected from the group of
  • each of x, y and z independently represents a substituted or unsubstituted O-Ce alkylene group
  • Ri is a substituted or unsubstituted C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical
  • R2 and R3 are each independently, substituted or unsubstituted
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a Ci-C4-Alkyrest
  • R4 and R6 are each independently, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of the formula * - (CH 2) c COOM, wherein c is an integer from 1 to 3 and M is hydrogen or a physiologically acceptable cation , stand,
  • R5 is a Cs-C22 alkyl radical, a Cs-C22 alkenyl radical, a C8-C22 radical
  • b stands for integers from 0 to 3
  • M is a physiologically acceptable cation
  • X stands for a physiologically acceptable anion
  • Cosmetic agents for the color change of keratinous fibers containing in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle - based on their total weight - a) 0, 1 to 15 wt .-% of at least one previously described oxidation dye precursor and / or direct dye
  • w is a direct bond or an oxygen atom
  • x is propyl
  • y and z are each independently of one another, represent a methyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 are each independently of one another, represent a 2-hydroxypropyl radical
  • R3 is hydrogen
  • a is an integer from 4 to 25, preferably from 6 to 20, preferably from 8 to 18, in particular from 12 to 16,
  • M stands for a sodium ion
  • X represents a chloride ion
  • b is the integer 0 or 1
  • Cosmetic agents for the color change of keratinous fibers containing in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle - based on their total weight - a) 0, 1 to 15 wt .-% of at least one previously described oxidation dye precursor and / or direct dye
  • w is a direct bond or an oxygen atom
  • x is propyl
  • y and z are each independently of one another, represent a methyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 are each independently of one another, represent a 2-hydroxypropyl radical
  • R3 is hydrogen
  • a is an integer from 4 to 25, preferably from 6 to 20, preferably from 8 to 18, in particular from 12 to 16,
  • M stands for a sodium ion
  • X represents a chloride ion
  • b is the integer 0 or 1
  • d) from 15 to 30% by weight of 2-octyldodecanol and / or cetearyl alcohol and / or mixtures of glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glyceryl distearate and glycerol dipamine, e) from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of xanthan,
  • Oxidative staining compositions may also be prepared directly prior to use from two or more separately packaged compositions. This is particularly useful for the separation of incompatible ingredients to avoid premature reaction. Separation into multicomponent systems is particularly preferred where incompatibilities of the ingredients are to be expected or feared.
  • the oxidative coloring composition in these cases is prepared by the consumer just prior to use by mixing the components. In the context of the present invention, this procedure is particularly preferred for oxidative colorants in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is initially present separately from an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent.
  • a further subject of the present invention is therefore a packaging unit (kit-of-parts) comprising - made up separately - a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent according to the invention, and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation which contains in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one oxidizing agent and at least one acid.
  • kit-of-parts comprising - made up separately - a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent according to the invention, and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation which contains in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one oxidizing agent and at least one acid.
  • the oxidative colorants which can be prepared from the packaging unit according to the invention and contain at least one special silicone block copolymer and at least one phospholipid lead to improved chroma of the keratin fibers dyed with these dyes.
  • the amount of dyes can be significantly reduced in the case of the oxidative colorants prepared from the packaging unit according to the invention.
  • the term "container” is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally resealable bottle, tube, can, sachet, sachet or similar wrappings However, these are enclosures made of glass or plastic.
  • the oxidizing agents in the present invention are different from atmospheric oxygen.
  • hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products to organic and inorganic compounds can be used.
  • Suitable solid addition products according to the invention are, in particular, the addition products of urea, melamine, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and also sodium borate.
  • Hydrogen peroxide and / or one of its solid addition products of organic or inorganic compounds are particularly preferred as the oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidizing agent is therefore preferably selected from the group of persulfates, chlorites, hydrogen peroxide and adducts of hydrogen peroxide with urea, melamine and sodium borate, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.75 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 25 to 7 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 5 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation, is included.
  • the calculation of the total amount refers to 100% H2O2.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations may further contain water in a total amount of from 40 to 98% by weight, in particular from 65 to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations further contain at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5 , 0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • Preference is given in particular to cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, such as are obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids, and mixtures of these alkanols.
  • the mixture is cetearyl alcohol.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations comprise at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI designation Ceteth-12, Steareth-12, Ceteareth-12, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30 and ceteareth-30, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular of 1 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • surfactants having the INCI designation Ceteth-12, Steareth-12, Ceteareth-12, Ceteth-20
  • the oxidizing agent formulation s at least one ester of a carboxylic acid having 10 to 20 carbon atoms and a linear or branched alcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular isopropyl myristate, in a total amount of 3.0 25 wt .-%, preferably from 5.0 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 8.0 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations contain, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparations,
  • At least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant which is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and ceteareth-30, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, such as
  • the oxidizing agent preparations according to the invention also contain at least one acid.
  • Preferred acids are selected from dipicolinic acid, edible acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid, dilute mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, pyrophosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, as well as mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent preparations preferably have a pH in the range from 2 to 5, in particular from 3 to 4, on.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention in the container C1 is mixed with the oxidizing agent preparation in the container C2 or vice versa.
  • the packaging unit contains at least one further hair treatment agent, in particular a conditioner preparation, in an additional container.
  • This conditioner composition advantageously contains at least one conditioning agent selected from the group of cationic polymers, silicone derivatives and oils.
  • the packaging unit Application aids such as combs, brushes, Applicetten or brushes, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use.
  • An applicette is understood to mean a broad brush, on whose end of the stem there is a tip, which allows and simplifies the division of fiber bundles out of the total amount of fibers.
  • a further subject of the present invention is a process for dyeing keratinic fibers, the process comprising the following process steps:
  • an oxidizing agent preparation comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one oxidizing agent and at least one acid, c) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), d) applying the mixture obtained in step c) the keratinic fibers and leaving this mixture for a time of 10 to 60 minutes, preferably from 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 30 ° C on the keratinic fibers,
  • the method according to the invention for coloring keratinic fibers using a combination of silicone block copolymer and phospholipid results in improved chroma of color shades over processes in which the aforementioned combination is not used. In this way, the same chroma can be achieved with a smaller amount of dyes, as with methods of the prior art, in which this combination is not used.
  • room temperature is to be understood as meaning the ambient temperature, which prevails without the action of external heat and is preferably from 10 to 39 ° C.
  • the effect of the dyeing and / or whitening preparation can be enhanced by external heat, for example by means of a heat hood.
  • the preferred exposure time of the dyeing and / or whitening preparation to the keratinic fiber is 10 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes.
  • the remaining colorant is washed out of the keratinic fibers by means of a cleaning preparation, which preferably contains at least one cationic and / or anionic and / or nonionic surfactant, and / or water. If necessary, the process is repeated with a further agent.
  • the keratinic fibers are optionally treated with an aftertreatment agent, for example, a conditioner, rinsed and dried with a towel or a hot air blower.
  • an aftertreatment agent for example, a conditioner
  • the application of the dyeing preparation is usually done by hand by the user.
  • Personal protective clothing is preferably worn here, in particular suitable protective gloves, for example made of plastic or latex for single use (disposable gloves) and optionally an apron. But it is also possible to apply the colorants with an application aid on the keratinic fibers.
  • a further subject of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic agent according to the invention for increasing the chroma of color shades.
  • the use of a combination of silicone block copolymer and phospholipid results in an increased variety of color nuances.
  • the amount of dyes in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be lowered over prior art compositions without such combination to achieve identical chroma as with prior oxidative colorants.
  • a further subject of the present invention is the use of a packaging unit according to the invention for the production of a cosmetic agent for the color change of keratinic fibers with increased chroma of color nuances.
  • a packaging unit according to the invention for the production of a cosmetic agent for the color change of keratinic fibers with increased chroma of color nuances.
  • the present invention is outlined in particular by the following points:
  • a cosmetic composition for modifying keratinous fibers comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • w is a direct bond or a heteroatom selected from the group of
  • each of x, y and z independently represents a substituted or unsubstituted O-Ce alkylene group
  • Ri is a substituted or unsubstituted C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical
  • R2 and R3 are each independently, substituted or unsubstituted
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a Ci-C4-Alkyrest
  • R4 and R6 are each independently, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of the formula * - (CH 2) c COOM, wherein c is an integer from 1 to 3 and M is hydrogen or a physiologically acceptable cation , stand,
  • R5 is a Cs-C22 alkyl radical, a Cs-C22 alkenyl radical, a C8-C22 radical
  • b stands for integers from 0 to 3
  • M is a physiologically acceptable cation
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 1 characterized in that the cosmetic agent contains the at least one oxidation dye precursor in a total amount of 0.005 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 15 wt. %, based on the cosmetic product.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the items 1 or 2, characterized in that the cosmetic agent contains the at least one substantive dye in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition contains.
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that in the formula (I) w is a direct bond or an oxygen atom, x is a C 2 -C 4 -alkyl group, y and z, each independently of one another, are a C3 alkyl group, and R1 and R2, each independently, are a hydroxypropyl.
  • composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that in the formula (II) the radical R3 represents a hydrogen atom and a represents integers from 4 to 25, preferably from 6 to 20, preferably from 8 to 18, in particular from 12 to 16, stands.
  • silicone block copolymer b) contains at least one structural unit (Ia)
  • w is a direct bond or an oxygen atom.
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the cosmetic agent is used as silicone block copolymer b) a silicone block polymer of the formula (IV)
  • w is a direct bond or an oxygen atom
  • x is propyl
  • y and z are each independently of one another, represent a methyl group
  • R 2 and R 3 are each independently of one another, represent a 2-hydroxypropyl radical
  • a is an integer from 4 to 25, preferably from 6 to 20, preferably from 8 to 18, in particular from 12 to 16,
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the at least one silicone block copolymer b) comprises a silicone block copolymer
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the cosmetic agent prefers the at least one silicone block copolymer b) in a total amount of 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably of 0.0005 to 10% by weight from 0.005 to 8.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0, 1 to 1, 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition contains.
  • Cosmetic agent characterized in that in the formula (Phos-I) the radical R5 for an acylaminoalkyl radical of the formula R 7 C (O) NH (C m H 2m) - *, wherein R 7 is a linear C s C22-acyl radical and m is an integer from 2 to 3, R4 and R6 are each, independently of one another, a Ci-C2-alkyl radical, b is an integer 0 or 1, M is an alkali metal, in particular lithium , Potassium or sodium, and X "is a halide ion, in particular chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the cosmetic agent contains as phospholipid c) a phospholipid of the formula (Phos-Ia)
  • M stands for a sodium ion
  • b is the integer 0 or 1
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the cosmetic agent comprises the at least one phospholipid c) in a total amount of 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-% , preferably from 0.005 to 2.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition contains.
  • Packing unit comprising - made up separately - a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 19, and
  • a process for dyeing keratinic fibers comprising the following process steps:
  • step c) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), d) applying the mixture obtained in step c) to the keratinic fibers and leaving this mixture for a time of 10 to 60 minutes, preferably from 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 45 ° C on the keratinic fibers, e) rinsing the keratinic fibers with water and / or a cleansing composition for 1 to 5 minutes, and
  • compositions of the cosmetic agents used oil-in-water emulsions, all amounts in% by weight.
  • the silicone block copolymer used in the following formulations is preferably a silicone block copolymer of the formula (IV).
  • a phospholipid of the formula (Phos-Ia) is preferably used as the phospholipid.
  • the fat base was melted together at 80 ° C and dispersed with a portion of the amount of water. Subsequently, the remaining recipe ingredients were incorporated with stirring in order. It was then made up to 100% by weight with water and the formulation was stirred cold.
  • the formulations V1 and V2 are non-inventive comparative formulations without silicone block copolymer or phospholipid.
  • the recipe E1 is an example according to the invention.
  • Oxidizing agent preparation 01 (all amounts in% by weight) Raw material 01
  • the oxidative dyes prepared in this manner were each applied in defined amounts (4 g oxidative dye per 1 g Yakhaar) to Yakhaar streaks (12 streaks per oxidative stain) and remained on the hair tresses for a period of 30 minutes at 32 ° C , The remaining remedies were then rinsed with lukewarm water from the hair strands for 2 minutes, the strands first dried with a towel and then dry-blown.
  • the colorations with the cosmetic product E1 according to the invention which contain a combination of a silicone block copolymer and a phospholipid, have an improved chroma as compared to the coloration of the silicone block copolymer (V1) and the phospholipid (V2).

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un produit cosmétique utilisé pour la coloration de fibres kératiniques, en particulier de cheveux humains, qui contient une association d'un copolymère à blocs silicone et d'un phospholipide, l'utilisation de l'association mentionnée précédemment permettant d'obtenir une meilleure variété de nuances. L'invention concerne en outre une unité d'emballage correspondante (kit d'éléments), l'utilisation dudit produit cosmétique, l'unité d'emballage ainsi qu'une méthode d'utilisation en employant les produits cosmétiques.
EP16701599.9A 2015-04-08 2016-01-25 Colorants d'oxydation contenant une association de copolymères à blocs silicone et de phospholipides Withdrawn EP3280386A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102015206261.9A DE102015206261A1 (de) 2015-04-08 2015-04-08 Oxidationsfärbemittel, enthaltend eine Kombination aus Silikon-Blockcopolymeren und Phospholipiden
PCT/EP2016/051428 WO2016162131A1 (fr) 2015-04-08 2016-01-25 Colorants d'oxydation contenant une association de copolymères à blocs silicone et de phospholipides

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DE102019214464A1 (de) 2019-09-23 2021-03-25 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zum Färben von keratinischem Material mit Aminosilikon, farbgebender Verbindung und Esteröl

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DE19914927A1 (de) * 1999-04-01 2000-10-05 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Pflegende Wirkstoffkombination in Haarbehandlungsmitteln
DE19914926A1 (de) * 1999-04-01 2000-02-24 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Färbemittel mit konditionierenden Tensiden
DE102012213251A1 (de) * 2012-07-27 2014-01-30 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Pflegende Haarfärbemittel mit Silicon-Blockcopolymeren

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US20180110717A1 (en) 2018-04-26
DE102015206261A1 (de) 2016-10-13

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