WO2012055580A2 - Utilisation de purine et/ou d'un dérivé de purine et d'au moins une biochinone pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel - Google Patents

Utilisation de purine et/ou d'un dérivé de purine et d'au moins une biochinone pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012055580A2
WO2012055580A2 PCT/EP2011/058356 EP2011058356W WO2012055580A2 WO 2012055580 A2 WO2012055580 A2 WO 2012055580A2 EP 2011058356 W EP2011058356 W EP 2011058356W WO 2012055580 A2 WO2012055580 A2 WO 2012055580A2
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Prior art keywords
hair
purine
biochinone
weight
use according
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PCT/EP2011/058356
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2012055580A3 (fr
Inventor
Melanie Giesen
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2012055580A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012055580A2/fr
Publication of WO2012055580A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012055580A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A61K8/355—Quinones
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606—Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the use of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one specific amino acid for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.
  • hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated.
  • they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.
  • Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction of melanin synthesis, which leads to the graying of the follicle.
  • the complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their ligands alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor to the cell interior.
  • Gp100 is a protein of the melanosomal membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation maintains melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells or reactivated. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research.
  • WO91 / 07945 A1 discloses the use of xanthines for stimulating the pigmentation of the skin and hair. Although the use of biochinones - especially coenzyme Q10 - in hair treatment products is widely known, its effects on melatonin have not been described so far.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide further active compounds or active agent combinations and compositions containing them, which are suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, even better, without the described disadvantages of the prior art have known methods for influencing hair color or degree of hair graying and youthful appearance of the hair.
  • the object is achieved by the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.
  • the natural pigmentation process of the hair is influenced, in particular stimulated or stimulated.
  • the positive influence preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or excitation or increase) is understood as influencing, which leads to a stimulation of the natural, biological pigmentation process.
  • the pigmentation process in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle
  • the natural pigmentation process in particular melanogenesis
  • the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.
  • the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes is particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • This is achieved, for example, by increasing the gene expression of signal molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit.
  • the influence, preferably stimulation, of melanogenesis by the achieved use according to the invention.
  • melanogenesis is stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans.
  • the stimulation of the pigmentation means in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.
  • the use according to the invention prevents, preferably substantially prevents, and / or reduces hair graying, in particular of human hair.
  • hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.
  • a prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying.
  • hair follicles in which the melanogenesis is not, no longer or not completely or disturbed or reduced again stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-grayed hair / hair follicles a disorder, reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis not first or only to a lesser extent.
  • already grayed hair is repigmented by the use according to the invention of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone.
  • the use according to the invention which aims at the hair growth caused by the natural aging process, in particular non-diseased hair graying, is a purely cosmetic use which does not represent a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease and is therefore non-therapeutic.
  • the use according to the invention takes place topically, ie by application to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or scalp, in particular the scalp.
  • already gray hair through the inventive use of a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one oligonucleotide repigmented.
  • a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative, preferably theophylline, with at least one biochinone is capable of positively influencing, in particular stimulating, the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle .
  • the combination according to the invention induced both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner.
  • a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed.
  • the natural pigmentation process can thus be influenced, in particular stimulated, by the skin and / or skin appendages.
  • this can be used to influence, in particular stimulate, the natural pigmentation process of the hair, the hair follicle or in the hair follicle.
  • the compositions used in the invention are suitable for stimulating and / or improving the pigmentation of the hair, stimulating melanogenesis, in particular in the hair follicle, preventing and / or reducing hair graying, and repigmenting grayed hair.
  • the agents used in the invention may therefore contain purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine.
  • Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines.
  • Purines are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH 2 , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH 3 in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived.
  • Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide.
  • Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.
  • compositions preferably to be used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I)
  • the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline.
  • Very particularly preferred uses according to the invention are characterized in that purine derivative is theophylline.
  • the purine or purine derivative is used in a cosmetic composition, the purine or the purine derivative in a total amount of 0.00001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains.
  • biochinone a combination of purine or purine derivative (s) and biochinone (s) is used.
  • suitable biochinones are preferably to be understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
  • Preferred uses are therefore characterized in that the biochinone (s) is (are) selected from ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
  • ubiquinone of the formula where n 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.
  • Uses which are particularly preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the biochinone is coenzyme Q10.
  • biochinone (s) are used in a cosmetic composition containing the biochinone (s) in a total amount of 0, 0000001 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.000001 - 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.00001 - 0.1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.00005 - 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent.
  • the ingredients used in combination according to the invention are used in a certain ratio to each other in order to develop the widest possible effect.
  • Uses preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the weight ratio of purine or purine derivative to biochinone (s) is 50: 1 to 1:10, in particular 25: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 10: 1 to 1: 2.
  • the cosmetic agents used according to the invention show improved care effects on the skin and on the hair.
  • preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are hair treatment agents.
  • Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dyeing agent. In view of the fact that the consumer often shies away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps for reasons of time and convenience, these means are particularly advantageous.
  • At least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils is contained.
  • the agents used in the invention may contain other active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.
  • compositions to be used according to the invention may contain surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s)
  • Surfactant (s) is / are selected from alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or trialkylmethylammonium chloride having preferably
  • the agents used according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.
  • vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
  • vitamin A The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in quantities of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, inter alia, vitamin B (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid).
  • Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate are in the used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the common name biotin has become established. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • the agents used according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids.
  • Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ⁇ Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy -L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sul
  • Preferred agents used according to the invention comprise one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 % By weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.
  • compositions used according to the invention may contain, in addition to optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or heal hair loss.
  • a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous.
  • Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only preparation approved worldwide and has been shown to be effective and well tolerated in numerous studies. Propecia causes less DHT to be produced from testosterone. Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application.
  • hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.
  • spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application.
  • Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the Hair follicles are prevented.
  • cosmetic agents to be used according to the invention which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.
  • a preferred form of preparation of the hair treatment agent used according to the invention takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably contain at least one monohydric alcohol, a purine and / or a purine derivative, at least one biochinone, optionally a gelling agent and optionally at least one specific care enhancer.
  • Another object of the present invention is a hair treatment composition containing a. theophylline,
  • compositions according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol.
  • ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 70 Wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.
  • hair treatment agents contain only ethanol.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.
  • the agents used according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent.
  • a gelling agent Through the use of these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents on the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant.
  • Hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred here which, based on their weight, are 0, 15 to 9% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0, From 3 to 6% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5% by weight % of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicic acids and / or phyllosilicates and / or organophosphorus silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hydrogenated castor oil and / or modified fatty derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC ) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (H
  • the agents used according to the invention in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers.
  • an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I).
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone
  • water-insoluble in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
  • water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight.
  • these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%).
  • the use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,
  • Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably chosen such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group.
  • This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2) x N + RR 2 R 3 X ", where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R and R 2 are independently CI_ 4 alkyl groups, R 3 is a Ci_ 2 2-alkyl group or a benzyl group and X "is a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • R and R 2 each represent a methyl group and R 3 represents either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms ,
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts 0, 1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the UV filters in the compositions used according to the invention improve the results of the repigmentation process, especially in the long term, and are therefore particularly suitable.
  • the agents used in the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three Cp to C 4 -alkyl groups.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight.
  • compositions used according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are especially suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention may be preferred to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plants extra kten in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the agents used according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M).
  • M penetration aids and / or swelling agents
  • M include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1,
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis and / or pigmentation of the hair, to prevent and / or reduce the Haarergrauung and / or for the repigmentation of gray hair, in which a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone is brought into contact with hair and / or skin topically.
  • a combination of purine and / or a purine derivative with at least one biochinone is brought into contact with hair and / or skin topically.

Abstract

L'invention concerne un agent cosmétique contenant de la purine et/ou un dérivé de purine et au moins une biochinone, ainsi que son utilisation pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel de la peau et/ou de phanères.
PCT/EP2011/058356 2010-10-28 2011-05-23 Utilisation de purine et/ou d'un dérivé de purine et d'au moins une biochinone pour influencer le processus de pigmentation naturel WO2012055580A2 (fr)

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DE201010043068 DE102010043068A1 (de) 2010-10-28 2010-10-28 Verwendung von Purin und/oder einem Purinderivat und mindestens einem Biochinon zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses

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US6267948B1 (en) * 1998-04-06 2001-07-31 Applied Genetics Incorporated Dermatics Dermatological formulations and methods
DE10150445A1 (de) * 2001-10-12 2003-04-17 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung einer oder mehreren Substanzen, gewählt aus der Gruppe der Pyrimidine und Purine in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Haarfärbung
DE10154559A1 (de) * 2001-11-07 2003-05-15 Beiersdorf Ag Wirkstoffkombination zur Verhinderung unerwünschter Hautpigmentierung
KR20070079390A (ko) * 2006-02-02 2007-08-07 (주)아모레퍼시픽 피부 미백용 화장료 조성물
DE102006042231A1 (de) * 2006-09-06 2008-03-27 Henkel Kgaa Mittel, enthaltend Biochinone und Purin oder Purinderivate
DE102007008284A1 (de) * 2006-10-26 2008-04-30 Henkel Kgaa Leistungsgesteigerte kosmetische Mittel mit Purin und/oder Purinderivaten II
JP4300370B2 (ja) * 2007-03-13 2009-07-22 春三 小林 上皮改善剤
KR20090080153A (ko) * 2008-01-21 2009-07-24 주식회사 엘지생활건강 피부 주름개선 또는 피부 미백용 조성물
DE102009044977A1 (de) * 2009-07-23 2011-01-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend Purin und/oder ein Purinderivat und Sclareol
DE102009044964A1 (de) * 2009-09-24 2011-03-31 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung einer Kombination aus Carnitin und/oder eines Carnitin-Derivats mit Purin und/oder einem Purin-Derivat zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses

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