WO2011039138A2 - Décoloration de fibres kératiniques par un agent réducteur, assistée par l'action de la chaleur - Google Patents

Décoloration de fibres kératiniques par un agent réducteur, assistée par l'action de la chaleur Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011039138A2
WO2011039138A2 PCT/EP2010/064245 EP2010064245W WO2011039138A2 WO 2011039138 A2 WO2011039138 A2 WO 2011039138A2 EP 2010064245 W EP2010064245 W EP 2010064245W WO 2011039138 A2 WO2011039138 A2 WO 2011039138A2
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Prior art keywords
group
formula
component
acid
cysteine
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PCT/EP2010/064245
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2011039138A3 (fr
Inventor
Winfried Emmerling
Yvonne Lissner
Stefan Hoepfner
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2011039138A2 publication Critical patent/WO2011039138A2/fr
Publication of WO2011039138A3 publication Critical patent/WO2011039138A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/447—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/24—Thermal properties

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a process for the reductive decolorization of dyed, keratin-containing fibers, in which an agent containing a combination of (a) at least one organic
  • Derivatives and C 4 -C 2 fatty acid dimethylamides is applied to the fibers and left on the fibers, the fibers are subjected to a heat treatment of 65 ° C to 200 ° C and preferably rinsed final.
  • the dye In dyeing, the dye is transferred to the substrate by adsorption to the surface, by diffusion, by formation on and / or in the substrate, or by chemical bonding.
  • natural dyes e.g. Purple or carmine
  • direct dyes or oxidation dyes are generally suitable.
  • Oxidative dyes are formed by oxidative coupling of one or more developer components with each other or with one or more coupler components. Coupler and developer components are also known as
  • the oxidative coupling preferably takes place during the dyeing process so that the dye precursors can diffuse into the substrate and the dye forms in the substrate. Due to the size of the resulting
  • Dye molecule is difficult to wash out of the substrate.
  • the developer components are usually primary aromatic amines having a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and derivatives thereof used.
  • m-phenylenediamine derivatives naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols and substituted pyridine derivatives are generally used.
  • Suitable coupler substances are, in particular, CC-naphthol, 1,5,7,7-and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 2,4 -Diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -anisole (Lehmann's Blue), 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazol-5-one, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-bis - (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylamino -pyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dime
  • Direct-acting dyes are generally understood to be dyes which are already preformed before the beginning of dyeing and are applied to the substrate. Important representatives of this class of dyes are, for example, triphenylmethane dyes, azo dyes,
  • Anthraquinone dyes or nitrobenzene dyes each of which may carry cationic or anionic groups.
  • Oxidative discoloration usually leads to good results.
  • the structure of the substrate can be chemically altered by the strong oxidizing action of the decolorizing oxidizing agent. This is accompanied by an undesirable physical change of the substrate. For example, textiles or hair can become brittle or even break, especially if they are discolored several times. The visual impression, the feel as well as the durability of the substrate are negatively influenced.
  • EP-A1-943 316 relates to the use of thiol group-containing compounds in combination with alpha-ketocarboxylic acids in dyed hair discoloring agents.
  • the document DE-A-102004045353 has the discoloration of colored hair with the aid of glycerol or derivatives thereof, organic carbonates or fatty acid dimethylamides to the subject.
  • the object of the present invention is a process for reductive decolorization
  • Reducing agent for cosmetic use physiologically acceptable and toxicologically safe.
  • the contact time of the decolorizing medium should be as low as possible.
  • the process according to the invention is outstandingly suitable for the accelerated and improved decolorization of dyed keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
  • the active ingredient combination according to the invention is particularly suitable for the fiber-sparing decolorization of keratin-containing fibers.
  • a first object of the invention is a process for the reductive discoloring of colored, keratin-containing fibers, in which a cosmetic preparation (A) containing a
  • Heat treatment of 65 ° C to 200 ° C are subjected and preferably rinsed final.
  • keratin fibers are, for example, wool, furs, feathers and especially human hair to understand.
  • the preparation (A) is in the first step of the method according to the invention on the Applied fibers and left there preferably for a contact Z1.
  • the exposure time Z1 is 10 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 1 minute to 10 minutes, more preferably 1 minute to 5 minutes.
  • the preparation (A) does not matter how the preparation (A) is applied to the fibers. This can be done for example by incorporation with the hands, technical application aids, such as a brush or a comb applicator, or spraying. However, it was found that the most uniform effects were found when the preparation (A) was sprayed onto the fibers.
  • the heat treatment takes place in a second step.
  • Rinsing out of preparation (A) and / or treatment with an intermediate treatment agent are not provided according to the invention.
  • Complete drying of the fibers, for example by using a hair dryer, is not desired according to the invention.
  • the type of heat treatment according to the invention is in principle subject to no restrictions.
  • the punctual action time of the heat treatment on the individual fiber or the individual area of the fiber (also referred to below as exposure time Z2) does not exceed 15 minutes under any circumstances.
  • Exposure time Z2 of 10 seconds to 3 minutes is preferred according to the invention, most preferably an exposure time Z2 of 20 seconds to 1 minute, in each case based on the treatment of the individual fiber or partial treatment of the fibers, based on the treatment of this fiber part.
  • the treatment temperature during the heat treatment is between 70 ° C and 180 ° C, in particular between 80 ° C to 150 ° C.
  • the exposure time Z2 refers to the treatment of the individual strand or on the sum of the times required for the multiple moving along the plates to the fibers.
  • the heat treatment is carried out by using a correspondingly tempered smoothing iron.
  • Heat treatment should, according to the invention, also encompass the treatment of partial regions of the fibers.
  • this technique can be used in the case of uneven dyeing of the fibers. If, after dyeing, no uniform dyeing has occurred, the darker areas of such a fiber (for example, the previously damaged hair tips) can be selectively subjected to the process of the present invention.
  • this technique can be used if a nonuniform staining result is deliberately desired.
  • patterns can be punctuated
  • the exposure time Z2 refers to the treatment of the corresponding part of the fiber so that no point is treated for more than 15 minutes.
  • a derivatized carboxyl group is preferably taken to mean salts with a physiologically compatible cation, carboxylic acid esters (-CO-O-R) and carboxamides (-CO-NH-R).
  • R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic or aromatic, hydrocarbon radical which may optionally be substituted.
  • At least one compound of the formula (I) is suitable.
  • X is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and aliphatic
  • Hydrocarbon skeleton which is optionally substituted with at least one of the following groups
  • M is particularly suitable for a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 8 ) -alkyl group or one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation.
  • X is methylene, ethane-1, 1-diyl, ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane
  • each of these groups may optionally be substituted with at least one of the following radicals: thiol group, carboxyl group, carboxylate group, hydroxy group, -NH 2 , (C 1 to C 6 ) -alkylamino group, (C 1 to C 6 ) -dialkylamino group.
  • X is a group of methylene, ethane-1, 1-diyl, ethane
  • each of these groups may be optionally substituted with at least one of the following radicals: carboxyl group, carboxylate group, hydroxy group, -NH 2 .
  • X is an ethane-1,2-diyl group
  • Carboxylate group hydroxy group, -NH 2 .
  • alkyl radicals are preferably for (or are preferably derived from) Methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, sec-pentyl, n-hexyl, 2-methylpentyl, n-heptyl, n Octyl, 6-methylheptyl, 2-ethylhexyl or 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl.
  • M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.
  • the monovalent or polyvalent cation M z + with a charge number z of one or higher serves, for reasons of electroneutrality, to compensate for the singly negative charge of the saltato carboxylate fragment -COO " in formula (I).
  • the equivalent of the corresponding cation to be used is 1 / z.
  • the fragment - COOM of the formula (I) in the case of salt formation stands for the group:
  • physiologically compatible cations are suitable as mono- or polyvalent cation M z + .
  • these are metal cations of the physiologically acceptable metals from groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, Via or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements,
  • Ammonium ions as well as cationic organic compounds with quaternized nitrogen atom.
  • the latter are obtained, for example, by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid, e.g. with compounds of the formula (I) in their acidic form, or formed by permanent quaternization of said organic amines.
  • Examples of these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol.
  • M in formula (I) is preferably a hydrogen atom
  • Ammonium ion an alkali metal ion, for half an equivalent of an alkaline earth metal ion or a half equivalent of a zinc ion, more preferably a hydrogen atom
  • Ammonium ion a sodium ion, a potassium ion, calcium ion, magnesium ion or zinc ion.
  • the agent according to the invention contains as component (a) at least one compound selected from at least one member of the group formed from L-cysteine (acid or salt), D-cysteine (acid or salt), D, L- Cysteine (acid or salt), cysteamine and acetylcysteine.
  • component (a) at least one compound selected from at least one member of the group formed from L-cysteine (acid or salt), D-cysteine (acid or salt), D, L- Cysteine (acid or salt), cysteamine and acetylcysteine.
  • component (a) at least one compound selected from at least one member of the group formed from L-cysteine (acid or salt), D-cysteine (acid or salt), D, L- Cysteine (acid or salt), cysteamine and acetylcysteine.
  • Component (a) is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total composition.
  • the cyclic, organic carbonate of component (b) (i) according to the invention is preferably at least one cyclic carbonic acid ester.
  • These cyclic esters of carbonic acid are derived from 1, 3-dioxolan-2-one and can be described by the following basic structure of the formula (11-1):
  • radicals R, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or organic radicals, in particular alkyl, alkenyl or alkylaryl, which may additionally be substituted by further groups, in particular hydroxyl groups.
  • the 1, 3-dioxolan-2-one, the radicals R, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 of the formula (11-1) are each a hydrogen atom.
  • suitable cyclic carbonic acid esters concern derivatives of this basic body, wherein at least one of the radicals R, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 of the formula (11-1) is different from a hydrogen atom.
  • R is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl or alkylaryl radical.
  • Preferred radicals R according to formula (II-2) are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl and hydroxymethyl, 1-hydroxyethyl and 2-hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain as 1,3-dioxolan-2-one derivative at least one compound of the above formula (II-2), wherein R is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl or Alkylaryl radical, wherein in further preferred inventive agents the radical R in formula (II-2) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl and hydroxymethyl, 1-hydroxyethyl and 2-hydroxyethyl residues.
  • 3-dioxolan-2-ones of the formula (11-1) are selected from the group
  • Ethylene carbonate is a colorless crystalline compound that melts at 39 ° C and boils at 238 ° C.
  • the readily soluble in water, alcohols and organic solvents ethylene carbonate can be prepared by large-scale synthesis of ethylene oxide and liquid C0 2 .
  • Propylene carbonate is a water-bright, easily mobile liquid, with a density of 1, 2057 like "3 , the melting point is -49 ° C, the boiling point at 242 ° C.
  • Propylene carbonate is also industrially by reaction of propylene oxide and C0 2 at 200 ° C.
  • glycerol carbonate is obtainable by transesterification of ethylene carbonate or dimethyl carbonate with glycerol, with the by-products of ethylene glycol or methanol, as well as glycidol (2,3-epoxy-1-propanol), which under pressure is present is reacted with catalysts of C0 2 to glycerol.
  • glycerol is a clear, mobile liquid with a density of 1, 398 like "3, boiling at 125-130 ° C (0.15 mbar).
  • Preferred glycerol compounds of component b) (ii) for the purposes of the invention are glycerol and / or at least one glyceride according to formula (III)
  • R, R 2 and R 3 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a C 2 -C 0 acyl group, in particular independently a hydrogen atom or a (C 2 to C 8) acyl, are provided.
  • Preferred C 2 -C 0 acyl groups are acetyl, n-propanoyl, i-propanoyl, n-butanoyl, sec- butanoyl, n-pentanoyl, n-hexanoyl, n-octanoyl and n-decanoyl.
  • the compounds of the formula (III) are monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides. According to the invention, it is particularly preferable to use those compounds of the formula (III) which are liquid at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
  • Very particularly preferred glycerol compounds of component (b) are selected from the group consisting of glycerol and glycerol triacetate.
  • At least one compound of the formula (IV) is preferably suitable as component (b) (iii).
  • R (4 to Ci 2 C) alkyl group means a linear or branched.
  • R is particularly preferably n-butyl, sec-butyl, n-hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl and n-dodecyl.
  • the compounds of component (b) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 5% by weight to 50% by weight, in particular from 10% by weight to 30% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition ,
  • Component (b) is preferably 1 to 2 to 1 to 20, in particular 1 to 3 to 1 to 10.
  • Active substance combinations in the agent according to the invention contain:
  • compositions according to the invention additionally contain oxalic acid in addition to the active substance combination.
  • This addition is preferably carried out in an amount of 1 wt .-% to 5 wt .-% based on the weight of the composition.
  • active substance combinations are preferred:
  • cysteine and / or a salt at least one compound of the formula oxalic acid (II-2)
  • Suitable carriers for a ready-to-use agent are preferably liquid media, such as, for example, water or organic solvents, which are different from the components of the active ingredient complex according to the invention. It is preferred according to the invention if the carrier is a cosmetic carrier.
  • cosmetic carriers are particularly creams, emulsions, gels or else
  • surfactant-containing foaming solutions such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair.
  • the cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 8 -alcohol other than the compounds of component (b), in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • alcoholic solvents are, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethanol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol.
  • inventive composition additionally contains, as solvent, at least one (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkyl monoalcohol and / or a (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkanediol, in particular ethanol, isopropanol and / or 1,2-propylene glycol.
  • the preparation (A) preferably has a pH of from pH 1 to pH 9, in particular from pH 2.0 to pH 6.5, in particular from pH 3 to pH 4.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one reductone in addition to the effect enhancement.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one reductone in addition to the effect enhancement.
  • Reductones which can be used are ascorbic acid, isoascorbic acid, 2,3-dihydroxy-2-propen-dial and 2,3-dihydroxy-2-cyclopentenone.
  • the reductones are preferably contained in an amount of 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, based on the weight of the preparation (A), in the preparation (A).
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula ascorbic acid
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula ascorbic acid
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof ethylene carbonate ascorbic acid
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula ascorbic acid
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula ascorbic acid
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula isoascorbin (11-1) acid
  • Cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula isoascorbic acid (II-2)
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula isoascorbic acid (III)
  • the performance of the preparation (A) increases, if they additionally at least one
  • Oxocarboxylic acids are organic compounds in addition to
  • At least one carboxyl group carry a carbonyl group and are thus aldehyde or
  • Keto carboxylic acids Preferred oxocarboxylic acids are -oxocarboxylic acids, .beta.-oxocarboxylic acids, .gamma.-oxocarboxylic acids and .omega.-oxocarboxylic acids. Among them are in turn compounds of
  • R is a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 6 ) alkyl group, a (C 1 to C 6 ) hydroxyalkyl group, an optionally substituted aryl group, an optionally substituted one
  • Heteroaryl group a (C 2 to C 6) alkenyl group or a carboxy (Ci to C6) - alkyl group,
  • n is a number 0, 1, 2 or 3.
  • the oxocarboxylic acids are particularly preferably selected from at least one member selected from the group glyoxalic acid, acetoacetic acid, 3-oxoglutaric acid, 4-oxovaleric acid and
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula glyoxylic acid
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula glyoxylic acid
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula glyoxylic acid (III)
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula glyoxylic acid
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of formula 3-oxoglutaric (11-1) acid
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula 3-oxoglutaric acid (III)
  • cysteine and / or a salt thereof at least one compound of the formula 3-oxoglutaric acid (IV)
  • the oxocarboxylic acids are preferably present in an amount of from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, of the composition according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic agents used in the process according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations:
  • cosmetic preparations (A) which have a pH of from 2 to 6.5 and contain a combination of active substances in a carrier
  • the cosmetic preparation (A) used in the context of this embodiment preferably has a pH of from pH 2.5 to pH 5, in particular a pH of from pH 3 to pH 4.
  • Embodiment is maintained even at a 6 month storage at a temperature of 40 ° C.
  • the cosmetic preparation (A) of this embodiment is preferably particularly effective if it has a viscosity of 2000 to 10,000 mPa s, in particular from 3000 to 6000 mPa s (each Brookfield DV-II +, spindle 4, 20 rpm at 20 ° C).
  • the compounds of component (c) and the compounds of component (d) in a weight ratio of 5 to 1 to 20 to 1, particularly preferably 8 to 1 to 12 to 1, in the preparation (A) are included.
  • the preparation (A) of this embodiment necessarily contains at least one (Ci 0 to C 30 ) fatty alcohol, in particular at least one (d 2 to C 22 ) fatty alcohol.
  • the compounds of component (c) in an amount of 3 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 4 to 6 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the preparation (A), in the preparation (A) are included.
  • fatty alcohols are primary aliphatic alcohols of the formula
  • R-OH in the R for an aliphatic, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 10 to 30 carbon atoms (preferably having 12 to 18 carbon atoms) which is saturated or may contain up to 3 double bonds.
  • Typical examples are capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are e.g. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • the (Cio to C30) fatty alcohols are in the
  • Agents of this embodiment according to the invention preferably in an amount of 3 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 4 to 6 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the preparation (A) included.
  • the preparation (A) of this embodiment contains as component (d) at least one of the emulsifiers defined above. These are preferably in an amount of 0.8 to 7.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 0 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the preparation (A) included.
  • the compounds of component (c) and the compounds of component (d) are preferably present in a weight ratio of 5: 1 to 20: 1, more preferably 8: 1 to 12: 1, in the preparation (A) used according to the invention ,
  • the preparation (A) as component (d) in the embodiment of component (d) (i) contains at least one (do to C 30 ) alkoxylated with 2 to 100 units of (C 2 - and / or C 3 ) -alkylene oxide fatty alcohol.
  • the (do to C 3 o) fatty alcohols alkoxylated with from 2 to 100 units of (C 2 - and / or C 3 ) -alkylene oxide are preferably present in the preparation (A) in an amount of from 0.2 to 1.2% by weight. %, particularly preferably from 0.3 to 0.7% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the preparation (A), contain.
  • components (d) (i) which are selected from at least one 2 to 100 units of ethylene oxide alkoxylated (Ci 0 to C 30 ) fatty alcohol, in particular linear (Ci 0 to C 30 ) fatty alcohol.
  • the preparations (A) used as component (D) (i) particularly preferably comprise at least one (d 2 to C 18 ) fatty alcohol alkoxylated with from 10 to 30 units of ethylene oxide.
  • the compounds of component (c) and the compounds of component (d) (i) are preferred according to the invention in a weight ratio of 5: 1 to 20: 1, particularly preferably 8: 1 to 12: 1, in preparation (A). contain.
  • the preparations (A) comprise as component (d) at least one emulsifier of component (d) (ii) selected from amphoteric emulsifier substituted with at least one (do to C 30 ) hydrocarbon radical.
  • a (do to C 3 o) hydrocarbon radical is meant linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chains having (d 0 to C 3 o) carbon atoms.
  • amphoteric emulsifiers of component (d) (ii) are preferably in the preparation (A) in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, in each case based on the weight of the preparation (A).
  • Amphoteric emulsifiers are subdivided into the groups of the zwitterionic emulsifiers and of the ampholytic emulsifiers, wherein according to the invention the zwitterionic emulsifiers are preferably suitable.
  • Zwitterionic emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ _) - or -S0 3 ⁇ _) group.
  • sulfobetaines such as N- (d 0 to C 3 o) acylaminoethyl-N, N-dimethyltaurine, N- (d 0 to C 3 o) - acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethyltaurine, N - (d 0 to C 3 o) -acylaminoethyl-N, N-dimethylsarcosine, N- (do to C 3 o) -acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylsarcosine.
  • sulfobetaines such as N- (d 0 to C 3 o) acylaminoethyl-N, N-dimethyltaurine, N- (d 0 to C 3 o) - acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethyltaurine, N- (d 0 to C 3 o) -acylaminoethyl-N, N-
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium, N- (Cio to C30) -Acylaminoethyl-N, N-dimethyl (for example, the
  • Kokosacylaminoethyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat N- (Cio to C 30 ) acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate (for example, the Kokosacylaminopropyl- dimethylammoniumglycinat) and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethyl- hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • Preferred suitable zwitterionic emulsifiers are selected from at least one betaine compound of N- (N '- (Ci 0 to C 3 o) -acylamino (C 2 or C 3 ) -alkyl) -N, N-dialkylglycine of the formula (D-1 )
  • R is a (Ci 0 to C 30 ) acyl group
  • R 'and R "independently of one another represent a methyl or an ethyl group (in particular R' and R" stand for a methyl group),
  • n is the number 2 or 3 (preferably 3).
  • the sulfobetaines of the formula (D1-a), which are related to the compounds of the formula (D-1), are suitable for use according to the invention as component (d), but do not lead to the effects of the invention to such an extent as they do when using the betaines of the formula (D-1)
  • R is a (Ci 0 to C 30 ) acyl group
  • R 'and R "independently of one another represent a methyl or an ethyl group (in particular R' and R" stand for a methyl group),
  • n is the number 2 or 3 (preferably 3).
  • a particularly preferred zwitterionic surfactant is that under the INCI name
  • Cocamidopropyl betaine known fatty acid amide derivative which, for example, under the Trade name Dehyton K or Dehyton PK 45 of the company. Cognis is traded.
  • amphoteric emulsifiers (d) (ii) are ampholytic emulsifiers - these are, however, not preferred amphoteric emulsifiers of component (d) according to the invention.
  • Ampholytic emulsifiers are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from at least one C 1 -C 30 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -CO-H or -SO_H group and are capable of forming internal salts ,
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines (especially those of the following formula (D-2)), N- Alkylsarcosines (insbeosndere those of the following formula (D-3)), 2-Alkylaminopropion- acids and Alkylaminoessigklaren each having about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, acylaminoethylaminopropionat the coconut, N-Ci 2 -18-acyl taurines and Ci 2 -i 8-acylsarcosines.
  • Preferred ampholytic surfactants are selected from at least one following N-acyl sarcosine derivative of the formula (D-2) and / or at least one N-acyl taurine derivative of the formula (D-3)
  • R is a (C 7 to C 30 ) alkyl group, (C 7 to C 30 ) alkenyl group or a
  • R 2 is a (Ci to C 4) alkyl group or a (Ci -C 4) hydroxyalkyl group
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C 4) alkyl group or a (Ci to C 4) - hydroxyalkyl group
  • R 4 is a (C 7 to C 30 ) alkyl group, (C 7 to C 30 ) alkenyl group or a
  • the radicals R of the formula (D-2) and R 4 of the formula (D-3) are preferably, independently of one another, a (C 9 to C 2 3) -alkyl group, (C 9 to C 2 3) -alkenyl group or a ( C 9 to C 23) - hydroxyalkyl group, particularly preferably independently of one another, a radical selected from the list which is formed from nonyl, undecyl, tridecyl, pentadecyl, heptadecyl,
  • Nonadecyl henicosanyl, 15-methylhexadecyl, heptadec-8-enyl, heptadeca-8,1,1-dienyl, nonadeca-4,7,10,13-tetraenyl, heptadeca-8,1,1,1,4-trienyl and 1 1-hydroxyheptadecyl ,
  • the radical R 2 according to formula (D-2) preferably represents a radical selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl and 2-hydroxyethyl. Particularly preferably, R 2 of the formula (D-2) is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.
  • the radical R 3 according to formula (D-3) preferably represents a radical selected from the group consisting of hydrogen atom, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl and 2-hydroxyethyl.
  • the radical M or the radical M ' is a hydrogen atom.
  • M or M ' represents one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.
  • the monovalent or polyvalent cation M z + or M ' y + each having a charge number z or y of one or higher, is used for compensation of the singly negative charge of the carboxylate fragment -CO- ⁇ - of the formula ( D-2) or the sulfonate fragment -SO_ ⁇ _) of the formula (D-3).
  • the equivalent of the corresponding cation to be used is 1 / z or 1 / y.
  • the fragment -CO-M of the formula (D-2) or the fragment -SO_M of the formula (D-3) is in the case of salt formation for the group:
  • physiologically compatible cations are suitable as mono- or polyvalent cations M z + or M ' y + .
  • these are metal cations of the physiologically acceptable metals from the groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, Via or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, ammonium ions, as well as cationic organic compounds with quaternized nitrogen atom.
  • the latter are formed, for example, by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid, such as with compounds of formula (D-2) or formula (D-3) in their acidic form, or by permanent quaternization of said organic amines.
  • M or M 'in the formulas (D-2) and (D-3) is preferably a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an alkali metal ion, for a half equivalent of an alkaline earth metal ion or a half equivalent of a zinc ion preferably a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, a sodium ion, a potassium ion,
  • the compounds of formula (D-2) are preferably selected from at least one member of the group formed from N-lauroyl sarcosine, N-myristoyl sarcosine, N-palmitoyl sarcosine, N-oleyl sarcosine, N-cocoyl sarcosine (here a group of Compounds is present and cocoyl the composition of the fatty acid cut of coconut oil corresponds) and N-palm kernel sarcosine (wherein there is a group of compounds and palm kernel corresponds to the composition of the fatty acid cut of palm kernel oil), as well as from the salts of the aforementioned N-acylsarcosine derivatives.
  • the compounds of formula (D-3) are preferably selected from at least one member of the group formed from N-dodecanoyl-N-methyltaurine, N-octadecanoyl-N-methyltaurine, N-hexadecanoyl-N-methyltaurine, N Tetradecanoyl-N-methyltaurine, N-oleyl-N-methyltaurine, N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurine (where there is a group of compounds and cocoyl corresponds to the composition of the fatty acid cut of coconut oil), N-palm kernel N-methyltaurine (where Here is a group of compounds and palm kernel of the group formed from N-dodecanoyl-N-methyltaurine, N-octadecanoyl-N-methyltaurine, N-hexadecanoyl-N-methyltaurine, N Tetradecanoyl-N-methyltaurine, N-oleyl-N-methyltaurine
  • composition of the fatty acid section of palm kernel oil corresponds), as well as from the salts of the aforementioned N-Acyltaurinderivate.
  • preparations (A) have a pH of 2 to 6.5 and contain in a carrier an active ingredient combination
  • At least one optionally derivatized carboxyl group carries and
  • Active substance combinations in the preparation (A) used according to the invention contain:
  • cysteine and / or an ethylene carbonate at least one with at least 10 salt thereof (C 12 to C 18 ) - to 30 units
  • cysteine and / or a propylene carbonate at least one with at least 10 salt thereof (C 12 to C 18 ) - to 30 units
  • cysteine and / or at least one at least one salt of at least 10 thereof (C 12 to C 18 ) - up to 30 units
  • cysteine and / or a glycerol triacetate at least one with at least 10 salt thereof (C 12 to C 18 ) - to 30 units Fatty alcohol alkoxylated ethylene oxide
  • Cysteine and / or a glycerol least one at least one salt thereof (C12 to C18) - betaine compound of
  • Cysteine and / or a glycerol least one at least one salt thereof (C12 to C18) - betaine compound of
  • Formula fatty alcohol ethylene oxide alkoxylated (II-2) (C 12 to C 18 ) fatty alcohol and at least one betaine compound of the formula (D-1)
  • Cysteine and / or an ethylene carbonate at least one at least one with 10 salt thereof (C 12 to C 18 ) - to 30 units
  • Cysteine and / or a propylene carbonate at least one at least one with 10 salt thereof (C 12 to C 18 ) - to 30 units
  • cysteine and / or a glycerol least one at least one of them with 10 salt (C12 to C18) - to 30 units
  • cysteine and / or a glycerol least one at least one of them with 10 salt (C12 to C18) - to 30 units
  • inventively preferred parameters of viscosity and pH as well as those of the compounds of formulas (11-1), (N-2), (III), (IV) and (D-1) also apply to these embodiments of Invention.
  • the washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • the agents contain at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable.
  • the surfactants from anionic, select zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in the cosmetic compositions are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 C-men men. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanol ammonium salts with 2 or 3 C atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms are especially preferred.
  • Alkyl sulfates and Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula R-0 (CH 2 -CH 2 0) x -S0 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 10 to 18 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12, anionic alkyl oligoglycosides or anionic alkenyl oligoglycoside derivatives selected from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of general formula (VI),
  • G glycoside unit which is derived from a sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as it is available as Plantapon ® LGC from Cognis Germany,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 2 -carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, Isostearic acid and palmitic acid.
  • the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized
  • Ester salts of fatty acids with Diethanolalkylaminen and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1, 2-Dihydroxypropyldialkylaminen are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • Protein hydrolysates are also suitable according to the invention.
  • cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM -2059 (manufactured by General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufactured by Wacker) and Abi-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufactured by Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to use native plant or animal raw materials in the manufacture of these substances, so that one can
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • normal homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts.
  • the use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one silicone for enhancing the fiber care without reducing the decolorizing power.
  • the silicones if they are present in the agents according to the invention, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • the silicones are selected from at least one member of the list formed from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • organofunctional groups selected under: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted onto them non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least at one of its ends;
  • Silicone contains, such as the marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone commercial product Abil B 8832 Degussa;
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1)
  • Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of from 0.2 to 2 at 20 ° C. mmV, with silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mmV being particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.
  • Cationic silicone oils such as the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5 are suitable according to the invention -71 13 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer:
  • Wacker Wacker
  • Abi-Quat 3270 and 3272 manufactured by Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g.
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight of amino-functional ⁇ ) silicone (s).
  • cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention.
  • the agent according to the invention preferably contains at least one cationic polymer for hair conditioning.
  • Compositions according to the invention containing such a polymer do not suffer any decrease in the decolorizing power but even experience a slight decrease
  • Cationic polymers are polymers according to the invention which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent
  • These are generally polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium - groups.
  • such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group over a d. 4-hydrocarbon group are bonded to a constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • R is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked,
  • crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyunsaturated unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or
  • polyunsaturated unsaturated compounds for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or
  • Sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, more Components: Mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1 -Trideceth-6)) commercially available.
  • Copolymers contain monomer units having the formula (G1 -I) as a non-ionic monomer, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid alkyl esters and CI_ 4
  • Methacrylic acid-d-4-alkyl ester Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers.
  • a copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as under the trade names Celquat ® and polymer
  • JR® are commercially available.
  • Polymer JR® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
  • cationized honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50,
  • cationic guar derivatives in particular those sold under the trade names Cosmedia®Guar and Jaguar®,
  • Polysiloxanes having quaternary groups such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM -2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt), di- quaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80)
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
  • Such compounds are among the Drawings Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially available,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers. Also usable according to the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, as they are known as
  • cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationically. Preference is given, for example, to chitosan and its derivatives, as used, for example, in the
  • Hydagen® ® CMF Hydagen® ® HCMF
  • Kytamer ® PC Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
  • R -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 3 R 4 R 5 A (_) (Ml)
  • R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer from 2 to 5 and A ⁇ _) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (M-II),
  • R 6 and R 7 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • alkali metal hydroxide an alkali metal hydroxide
  • R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups
  • Z is an NH group
  • a ⁇ _ is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is;
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a).
  • Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.
  • the color-modifying agents according to the invention contain the cationic polymers preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, in particular in an amount of 0, 1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.
  • the agent of the invention is preferably particularly effective if it has a viscosity of 500 to 30,000 mPa s, in particular from 1,000 to 10,000 mPa s (each Brookfield DV-II +, spindle 4, 20 rpm at 20 ° C).
  • the agent according to the invention is thus preferably added with at least one thickener.
  • Thickening polymers are preferably suitable for thickening the compositions according to the invention. In aqueous phases, their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature.
  • the polymers used according to the invention for thickening are used both in surface-active and in emulsion-type systems.
  • Polymeric thickeners are preferably used which exert a thickening effect at an acidic pH, preferably in the stated preferred viscosity range.
  • Particularly preferred suitable thickening polymers are selected from xanthan gum and / or cellulose or derivatives of cellulose, in particular cellulose ethers.
  • cellulose ethers as thickening polymer contain structural elements of the formula (Cell-1)
  • R irrespective of its position in the structural element, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an octyl group, a dodecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a residue -CH 2 CH 2 - (O-CH 2 CH 2 ) y -OH y> 0 or a radical - CH 2 CHMe- (O-CH 2 CHMe) z -OH with z> 0,
  • n is an integer from 300 to 15,000
  • At least one radical R is a radical
  • the inventive compositions most preferably at least one thickening polymer selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose (for example Natrosol ® 250 HR of Messrs. Hercules), hydroxypropyl cellulose contained (eg Klucel ® from PR. Hercules),
  • Methylhydroxyethylcellulose (eg Culminal.RTM ® MHEC 8000 from. Hercules),
  • Methylhydroxypropylcellulose eg Benecel ® MP 943 R from. Hercules
  • Benecel ® MP 943 R from. Hercules
  • Hexadecylhydroxyethylcellulose eg Natrosol ® plus grade 330 PA of the company. Hercules).
  • the keratin-containing fibers to be decolorized are preferably dyed with oxidation dyes and / or substantive dyes as representatives of the synthetic dyes.
  • Developer components can in principle serve as subsequent developer components.
  • a developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts; Compounds containing at least two aromatic nuclei substituted with amino and / or hydroxyl groups; a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts; o-aminophenol and its derivatives; heterocyclic developer components such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts for coloring the keratin-containing fibers to be decolored.
  • Very particularly preferred developer components for dyeing the keratin-containing fibers to be decolored are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (a , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazole-1 -yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2- hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that, for the dyeing of the keratin-containing fibers to be decolored, at least one additional developer component is additionally used when using at least one developer component
  • Coupler component is used. Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry at least two groups on the cycle selected from (i) optionally substituted
  • cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably in ortho position or meta position to each other.
  • Coupler components according to the invention for coloring the keratin-containing fibers to be decolored are preferably selected as at least one compound from one of the following classes: m-aminophenol and / or its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and / or its derivatives, o-diaminobenzene and / or its derivatives, o -Aminophenolderivate,
  • Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxyl group, di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or derivatives thereof,
  • particularly preferred coupler components are selected from m-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino 4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, m-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2, 6-Bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4
  • the coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on that for dyeing the to be decolored
  • keratin-containing fibers used oxidation dyes used.
  • developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other.
  • a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , can stand.
  • the keratin-containing fibers to be decolored may have been dyed either with substantive dyes alone or in combination of substantive dyes with oxidation dyes.
  • Preferred substantive dyes are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the ready-to-use agent by mixing a composition comprising, optionally in a cosmetic carrier, at least one organic compound carrying at least one thiol group and at least one optionally derivatized carboxyl group having a composition containing in a cosmetic carrier, at least one organic compound selected from the group that is formed
  • compositions may be formulated or obtained before mixing as described below.
  • the keratin-containing fibers are rinsed out, with preference being given to using a surfactant-containing agent, for example a cleaning agent or a shampoo.
  • a surfactant-containing agent for example a cleaning agent or a shampoo.
  • the substrate can be rinsed out several times, or treated with the surfactant-containing agent.
  • the keratin-containing fibers After rinsing, it may be advantageous to include the keratin-containing fibers with a
  • Hydrogen peroxide is preferably used as the oxidizing agent, preferably in concentrations of from 0.5 to 6% by weight.
  • the reaction time is preferably 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably 1 to 10 minutes. After expiry of the contact time, the oxidant-containing composition is rinsed out.
  • the agent according to the invention as a multi-component system in the form of a kit-of-parts. It is preferred that in a first container a composition containing, optionally in a cosmetic carrier, at least one organic compound containing at least one thiol group and at least one
  • composition comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one organic compound selected from the group being formed
  • Containers according to the invention are containers such as bottles, Sachets, pouches, tubes, cans and many more. Also a chamber of one
  • Assembled chambers and are brought together immediately before exiting the multi-chamber container or thereafter and thereby mixed.
  • composition of the first container is preferably present as a solid, in particular in powder form, granulated or as a shaped body.
  • a powdery composition of the first container has a preferred mean particle size of 0.0001 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 0.005 to 10 ⁇ .
  • These powders can be dedusted by coating with fats, oils or waxes, such as silicone oils, liquid hydrocarbons, dialkyl ethers, fatty acids, fatty alcohols.
  • Granules according to the invention are understood to mean granular particles. These granular particles are flowable.
  • Granules can be prepared by wet granulation, by dry granulation or compaction and by melt solidification granulation. The most common
  • Granulation technology is wet granulation, since this technique is subject to the fewest restrictions and leads most safely to granules with favorable properties.
  • the wet granulation is carried out by moistening the powder mixtures with solvents and / or solvent mixtures and / or solutions of binders and / or solutions of adhesives and is preferably carried out in mixers, fluidized beds or spray towers, said mixer can be equipped, for example, with stirring and kneading tools.
  • combinations of fluidized bed (s) and mixer (s) or combinations of different mixers can also be used for the granulation.
  • the granulation takes place under the action of low to high shear forces.
  • composition of the first container is in the form of a shaped body
  • inventive shaped bodies can have any geometric shape.
  • the training as a blackboard, the bar or bar shape, cubes, cuboids and corresponding space elements with flat side surfaces and in particular cylindrical configurations with a circular or oval cross-section and shaped bodies with spherical geometry are inventively preferred.
  • Particularly preferred are shaped bodies in the form of spherical geometry.
  • An inventive shaped body with a spherical configuration can be produced by the known methods. It is possible, the moldings by extrusion of a To produce premix with subsequent shaping, as described in more detail, for example, in WO-A-91/02047, which is incorporated herein by reference.
  • a molded body according to the invention has a preferred breaking hardness of 30-100 N, particularly preferably 40-80 N, very particularly preferably 50-60 N (measured according to European Pharmacopoeia 1997, 3rd edition, ISBN 3-7692-2186-9, " 2.9.8 Breaking strength of tablets ", page 143-144 with a tablet hardness tester Schleuniger 6D).
  • composition of the second container preferably includes one
  • liquid cosmetic carrier This applies in particular if the composition of the first container is in powder form, granulated or in the form of a shaped article.
  • the kit may also contain application aids, such as brush or mascara brush.
  • the kit may additionally contain protective gloves.
  • the kit may additionally contain a conditioner and / or a shampoo.
  • the quantities are percent by weight based on the weight of the respective agent.
  • Active substance content INCI name: Sodium PCA) (Ajinomoto) Dehyton ® PK 45 N, N-dimethyl-N- (cocamidopropyl) ammoniumaceto betaine (ca.
  • the application mixture was applied to two oxidation hair dyed strands of hair and allowed to act for a period of 15 minutes. Subsequently, the treated hair was rubbed. A lock of hair was treated with straightening iron at a temperature of 120 ° C for, with the straightening iron being moved 4 times along the strand. Both tresses were rinsed and dried. The heat application achieved a significantly improved color removal.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de décoloration, par un agent réducteur, de fibres contenant de la kératine et colorées, selon lequel on applique sur les fibres un produit, contenant une association de (a) au moins un composé organique qui porte au moins un groupe thiol et au moins un groupe carboxylique éventuellement transformé en dérivés et (b) au moins un composé organique qui est sélectionné dans le groupe constitué de cycles, carbonates organiques, glycérine et ses dérivés et diméthylamide d'acide gras en C4-C12 et on laisse agir ce produit sur les fibres. Ensuite les fibres sont soumises à un traitement thermique de 65°C à 200°C.
PCT/EP2010/064245 2009-09-30 2010-09-27 Décoloration de fibres kératiniques par un agent réducteur, assistée par l'action de la chaleur WO2011039138A2 (fr)

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DE102009045176.5 2009-09-30
DE102009045176A DE102009045176A1 (de) 2009-09-30 2009-09-30 Wärmeunterstützende reduktive Entfärbung keratinhaltiger Fasern

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WO2011039138A2 true WO2011039138A2 (fr) 2011-04-07
WO2011039138A3 WO2011039138A3 (fr) 2012-09-07

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DE102013225169A1 (de) * 2013-12-06 2015-06-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Blondiermitteltabletten

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DE3723354A1 (de) 1987-07-15 1989-01-26 Henkel Kgaa Sulfatierte hydroxy-mischether, verfahren zu ihrer herstellung und ihre verwendung
DE3725030A1 (de) 1987-07-29 1989-02-09 Henkel Kgaa Oberflaechenaktive hydroxysulfonate
WO1991002047A1 (fr) 1989-08-09 1991-02-21 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Fabrication de granules comprimes pour produits de lavage
DE3926344A1 (de) 1989-08-09 1991-02-28 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur herstellung von hellfarbigen oelsaeuresulfonaten
DE3929973A1 (de) 1989-09-08 1991-03-14 Henkel Kgaa Haarpflegemittel
DE4413686A1 (de) 1994-04-20 1995-10-26 Henkel Kgaa Kationische Zuckertenside
EP0943316A2 (fr) 1998-03-12 1999-09-22 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Agent pour colorer et decolorer des cheveux
DE102004045353A1 (de) 2004-09-17 2006-04-06 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Mittel zur Entfernung von Oxidationshaarfarben

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DE2213671A1 (de) * 1972-03-21 1973-10-04 Cosmital Sa Verfahren und mittel zur dauerverformung von haaren.
GB9708182D0 (en) 1997-04-23 1997-06-11 Dow Corning Sa A method of making silicone in water emulsions
US5998537A (en) 1998-09-21 1999-12-07 Dow Corning Corporation Emulsions containing ultrahigh viscosity silicone polymers
FR2785183B1 (fr) 1998-11-04 2002-04-05 Oreal COMPOSITION TINCTORIALE CONTENANT UN COLORANT DIRECT CATIONIQUE ET UNE PYRAZOLO-[1,5-a]- PYRIMIDINE A TITRE DE BASE D'OXYDATION, ET PROCEDES DE TEINTURE
DE102007039954A1 (de) * 2007-08-23 2009-02-26 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Reduktive Entfärbung keratinhaltiger Fasern

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DE3723354A1 (de) 1987-07-15 1989-01-26 Henkel Kgaa Sulfatierte hydroxy-mischether, verfahren zu ihrer herstellung und ihre verwendung
DE3725030A1 (de) 1987-07-29 1989-02-09 Henkel Kgaa Oberflaechenaktive hydroxysulfonate
WO1991002047A1 (fr) 1989-08-09 1991-02-21 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Fabrication de granules comprimes pour produits de lavage
DE3926344A1 (de) 1989-08-09 1991-02-28 Henkel Kgaa Verfahren zur herstellung von hellfarbigen oelsaeuresulfonaten
DE3929973A1 (de) 1989-09-08 1991-03-14 Henkel Kgaa Haarpflegemittel
DE4413686A1 (de) 1994-04-20 1995-10-26 Henkel Kgaa Kationische Zuckertenside
EP0943316A2 (fr) 1998-03-12 1999-09-22 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Agent pour colorer et decolorer des cheveux
DE102004045353A1 (de) 2004-09-17 2006-04-06 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Mittel zur Entfernung von Oxidationshaarfarben

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DE102009045176A1 (de) 2011-04-07

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