WO2011035945A2

WO2011035945A2 - Use of a combination of carnitine and/or a carnitine derivative with purine and/or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation process

Info

Publication number: WO2011035945A2
Application number: PCT/EP2010/060032
Authority: WO
Inventors: Melanie Giesen; Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche; Edo Hoting
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2009-09-24
Filing date: 2010-07-13
Publication date: 2011-03-31
Also published as: WO2011035945A3; EP2480195A2; DE102009044964A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a combination of carnitine and/or a carnitine derivative with purine and/or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and/or cutaneous appendages.

Description

Use of a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative with purine and / or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation process

The invention relates to the use of a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative, in particular carnitine tartrate, with purine and / or a purine derivative, in particular theophylline, for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.

In addition to their actual physiological tasks such as thermal insulation and light protection, hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated. Among other things, they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.

So far, the causes of hair graying are not combated, but the hair is treated for gray coverage with the help of chemical often aggressive and thus damaging the hair colorations. In addition, customers often complain of lack of compatibility (itching, burning, stinging) and sustainability (approach must be re-dyed regularly). The effectiveness of currently isolated on the market biological products is not scientifically proven and often doubtful. Significantly effective, biologically active agents that affect the graying process directly at the root, are not used.

The pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction of melanin synthesis, which leads to the graying of the follicle. The complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key signals of melanogenesis through the binding of their ligands alpha- melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor into the cell's interior. Gp100 is a protein of the melanosomal membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation is intended to maintain or reactivate melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research.

The prior art (WO91 / 07945) discloses the use of xanthines for stimulating pigmentation of the skin and hair.

L-carnitine is a vitamin-like active ingredient that is related to the vitamins of the B complex and is essential for the energy production and metabolism of the human body. For this reason, L-carnitine is mainly used as a dietary supplement (US20040170709 A1). Like L-carnitine, L-carnitine tartrate is also used as a nutritional supplement, for example to support weight reduction (US20040028668 A1). The use of carnitine to influence the natural pigmentation process was not known.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide active substances which are suitable for even better influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, without the described disadvantages of the methods known in the prior art for influencing hair color or degree of hair graying and have a youthful look of hair.

The object is achieved by the use of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative with purine and / or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.

As a first ingredient, the agents used in the invention may therefore contain purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine. Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways. Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I)

in which the radicals R, R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ - CH ₃ , with the following compounds being preferred:

Purine (R = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-Purethiol (R = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H) 6-thioguanine (R = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Theophylline (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H)

Preferably, the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use purine and / or purine derivative-containing extracts.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the purine or purine derivative is used in a cosmetic composition, the purine or the purine derivative in a total amount of 0.00001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains. If purine and at least one purine derivative or two or more purine derivatives are used together, the total amounts / ratios in each case relate to the amount of all purines used (including the purine derivatives).

A further constituent of the combination to be used according to the invention is carnitine (3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonium) butyric acid betaine, [(R) -3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium betaine), more preferably L-carnitine.

Furthermore, it is also possible to use carnitine derivatives. Preferred carnitine derivatives are in particular selected from carnitine tartrate, acetyl carnitine, carnitine fumarate, carnitine

Citrate, lauroyl carnitine, and most preferably carnitine tartrate. Particularly preferred are the

Carnitine derivatives Acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and especially preferred L-carnitine tartrate. The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).

Particularly preferred are the L-carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine

Citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and especially preferred L-carnitine tartrate.

Preferred combinations are carnitine and xanthine, carnitine and caffeine, carnitine and theobromine, in particular carnitine and theophylline; Acetyl-carnitine and xanthine, acetyl-carnitine and caffeine, acetyl-carnitine and theobromine, especially acetyl-carnitine and theophylline; Carnitine fumarate and xanthine, carnitine fumarate and caffeine, carnitine fumarate and theobromine, in particular carnitine fumarate and theophylline; Carnitine citrate and xanthine, carnitine citrate and caffeine, carnitine citrate and theobromine, especially carnitine citrate and theophylline; Lauroyl carnitine and xanthine, lauroyl carnitine and caffeine, lauroyl carnitine and theobromine, especially lauroyl carnitine and theophylline. Particularly preferred combinations are carnitine tartrate and xanthine, carnitine tartrate and caffeine, carnitine tartrate and theobromine, in particular carnitine tartrate and theophylline.

Another particularly preferred combination is the combination of carnitine with caffeine and theopyhlin, in particular the combination of carnitine tartrate with caffeine and theophylline. The aforementioned preferred combinations are capable of synergistically stimulating at least one sub-step of the natural pigmentation process.

According to a preferred embodiment, the ratio of the amount of purine and / or purine derivative to the total amount of carnitine and / or carnitine derivative is from 30: 1 to 1: 30, preferably 20: 1 to 1:20, in particular 10: 1 to 1:10, more preferably from 7: 1 to 1: 7, most preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 4.

The ratio of the amount of purine to the total amount of carnitine is particularly preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular from 7: 1 to 1: 7, preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 4. Most preferably, the ratio of the amount of theophylline to the total amount of carnitine tartrate is from 20: 1 to 1:20, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, in particular from 7: 1 to 1: 7, particularly preferably 4: 1 to 1: 4.

According to a further preferred embodiment, carnitine and / or the carnitine derivative is used in a cosmetic composition which contains carnitine and / or the carnitine derivative in a total amount of 0.000001-15% by weight, in particular 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains. If carnitine and at least one carnitine derivative or two or more carnitine derivatives are used together, the total amounts / ratios in each case relate to the amount of all carnitines used (including those of the carnitine derivatives).

Particularly preferred combinations are 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt % Carnitine, and 0.000001-3 wt%, preferably 0.00001-1 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt%, most preferably 0.0003-0.05 Wt .-% theobromine in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

Particularly preferred combinations are 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt % Carnitine, and 0.000001-3 wt%, preferably 0.00001-1 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt%, most preferably 0.0003-0.05 Wt .-% xanthine in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

Further particularly preferred combinations are 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001-5% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-1% by weight, most preferably 0.001-0.5, in agents to be used according to the invention % By weight of carnitine, and 0.000001-3% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, most preferably 0.0003-0, 05 wt .-% caffeine, each based on the total weight of the composition. Very particularly preferred combinations are 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.0001-1% by weight, most preferably 0.001-0.5, in agents to be used according to the invention % By weight of carnitine, and 0.000001-3% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, most preferably 0.0003-0, 05 wt .-% theophylline in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Particularly preferred combinations are 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt % Carnitine tartrate, and 0.000001-3 wt%, preferably 0.00001-1 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt%, most preferably 0.0003-0 , 05 wt .-% theobromine in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Particularly preferred combinations are 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt % Carnitine tartrate, and 0.000001-3 wt%, preferably 0.00001-1 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt%, most preferably 0.0003-0 , 05 wt .-% xanthine in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Further particularly preferred combinations are 0.000001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 - 0.5 in inventively used agents % By weight carnitine tartrate, and 0.000001-3% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, most preferably 0.0003% 0.05 wt .-% caffeine, each based on the total weight of the composition. Extremely preferred combinations are 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001-5% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-1% by weight, even more preferably 0.001-0.5% by weight, in the agents to be used according to the invention % Carnitine tartrate, and 0.000001-3 wt%, preferably 0.00001-1 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt%, most preferably 0.0003-0 , 05 wt .-% theophylline in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents to be used according to the invention preferably contain 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001-5% by weight, more preferably 0.0001-1% by weight, most preferably 0.001%. 0.5 wt% carnitine tartrate, and 0.000001-3 wt%, preferably 0.00001-1 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt%, most preferably 0 , 0003 - 0.05 wt .-% theophylline and 0.000001-3 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, most preferably 0 , 0003 - 0.05 wt .-% caffeine in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative, in particular carnitine tartrate with purine and / or the purine derivative, in particular theophylline, is capable of the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or Hair follicles, influence, in particular, to stimulate. The combination according to the invention induces both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner. In addition, an increase in melanin synthesis was observed. Furthermore, the natural pigmentation process is positively influenced by the increase in the available ATP content as well as the Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) in the hair follicles.

By applying the combination according to the invention or the agents used according to the invention, the natural pigmentation process can thus be influenced, in particular stimulated, by the skin and / or skin appendages. In particular, so can the natural Pigmentation process of the hair, the hair follicle or in the hair follicle influenced, in particular stimulated. The agents used according to the invention are suitable for stimulating and / or improving the pigmentation of the hair, stimulating melanogenesis, in particular in the hair follicle, preventing and / or reducing hair graying, and repigmenting grayed hair.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "influencing the natural pigmentation process" means the positive or negative influence on the natural coloration / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, i. understood biological pigmentation process in skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles.

Under skin and skin appendages in the context of the invention, the skin, the mucosa, the hair and its hair follicles, glands and nails, especially skin, mucous membranes, hair and hair follicles to understand. The term skin is particularly preferably to be understood as meaning the skin without mucous membrane. Hair and hair follicles, preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably hair on the head or the corresponding hair follicles are to be understood by the term skin appendages.

According to a preferred embodiment, the influencing of the natural pigmentation process means the positive or negative influencing at least one partial step of the natural pigmentation process. This influence relates in particular to the regulation of such molecular signals that influence the biological or natural pigmentation process.

Preferably, the regulation of the biological or natural pigmentation process by gene regulation, i. the regulation at the expression level, and / or enzyme regulation, i. the regulation at the activity level, and / or the regulation at the hormone level.

Particularly preferred is regulation of melanogenesis, including the regulation of gene expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. Furthermore, the regulation of tyrosinase, both the gene expression of tyrosinase and the regulation at the enzyme level includes.

According to a preferred embodiment, the natural pigmentation process of the hair is influenced, in particular stimulated or stimulated. In particular, the positive influence, preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or excitation or increase) is understood as influencing, which leads to a stimulation of the natural, biological pigmentation process. Particularly preferred is the stimulation of melanogenesis in the human hair follicle, especially the hair of the head (the hair follicles located on the scalp / head).

According to the invention, the pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle, can be influenced. In particular, the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, can be influenced in mammals, particularly preferably in humans. Preferably, the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.

By stimulating melanogenesis, preferably melanogenesis in the hair follicle, the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes (preferably the melanocytes in the hair follicle) is particularly preferred according to the invention. This is achieved, for example, by increasing the gene expression of signal molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. According to a preferred embodiment, the positive influence, preferably stimulation, of melanogenesis is achieved by the use according to the invention. In particular, melanogenesis is stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans. For the purposes of the present invention, the stimulation of the pigmentation means, in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the use according to the invention prevents, preferably substantially prevents, and / or reduces hair graying, in particular of human hair. For the purposes of the present invention, hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.

A prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying. In one case, hair follicles in which the melanogenesis is not, no longer or not completely or disturbed or reduced, again stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-grayed hair / hair follicles a disorder, reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis not first or only to a lesser extent.

According to a further preferred embodiment, already gray hair is obtained by the use according to the invention of a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative with purine and / or a purine derivative, in particular by using a combination of theophylline and carnitine or carnitine tartrate, preferably theophylline and carnitine tartrate repigmented.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the use according to the invention is a cosmetic use which is non-therapeutic. In particular, the use according to the invention, which aims at the hair growth caused by the natural aging process, in particular non-diseased hair graying, is a purely cosmetic use which does not represent a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease and is therefore non-therapeutic. This refers in particular to the non-pathological, non-illness-related hair graying.

According to a particular embodiment, the use according to the invention is topical, i. by applying to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or scalp, in particular the scalp.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention show improved care effects on skin and hair. Especially on keratinic fibers, the positive effects are clearly pronounced, so that preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are hair treatment agents.

Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dyeing agent. In view of the fact that the consumer often shies away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps for reasons of time and convenience, these means are particularly advantageous.

According to a preferred embodiment, additionally preferably at least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils is contained.

The agents used in the invention may contain other active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.

The compositions to be used according to the invention may contain surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants. For surfactant-containing agents to be used according to the invention, protection is desired or protection may be desired; Surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants, contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Preferred surfactants, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions according to the invention are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044964 on pages 10 to 20, the features mentioned there are clearly implicit in describing the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content of this application , Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the Amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s) surfactant (s) is / are selected from alkyl trimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or trialkylmethylammonium chlorides having preferably 10 to 18 Carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or distearyldimethylammonium chloride and / or lauryldimethylammonium chloride and / or lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and / or tricetylmethylammonium chloride and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-83 and / or N-methyl-N (2- hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (ditalgacyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (distearoyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N, N-dimethyl-N, N- distearoyloxyethyl ammonium chloride and / or N, N-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (fatty acid ethyl) ammonium chloride. As a further optional component, the agents used according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers. For polymer-containing agents to be used according to the invention protection is desired or protection can be desired; Polymers, in particular cationic polymers, contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions to be used according to the invention, are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044964 on pages 20 to 30, the features mentioned there clearly belong implicitly to the description of the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content this application.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the agents used in the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in quantities of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, inter alia, vitamin B (thiamine), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin), vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent. Also included is vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and those disclosed in WO 92/13829 cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Furthermore, vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal) can be used. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent , Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions used according to the invention comprise a combination of tocopherol or at least one tocopherol ester with carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative and theophylline.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions used according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0, 1 wt. % of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, with agents to be used particularly preferably containing coenzyme Q 10, preferably from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight. As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents used according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones (polyprenylated 2,3-dimethylbenzoquinone derivatives). Here, preferred agents used in the invention are characterized by being 0.0002 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and In particular, 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone. The prenyl side chain contains n prenyl units. Preference is given to values of n from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, with agents to be used particularly preferably containing a plastoquinone with n = 9.

It is furthermore advantageous to use purine or purine derivatives a) and biochinones b) (in particular ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones) in a specific ratio to one another. Here, agents used according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of the ingredients a) and b) is 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 50, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1: 10.

As already mentioned, theophylline and caffeine are particularly preferred purine derivatives, and the coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone. Particularly preferred agents used according to the invention, which additionally contain carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative, are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight. %, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of caffeine or theophylline and 0.0002 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 3% by weight , particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.

As a further ingredient, the agents used according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy -L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid) , L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used. Preferred agents used according to the invention comprise one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 % By weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

Particularly preferred is a combination of carintene tartrate and theophylline with glycine, carintene tartrate and theophylline with alanine, carintene tartrate and theophylline with valine, carintene tartrate and theophylline with lysine, carintintartrate and theophylline with leucine, carintene tartrate and theophylline with threonine. Also particularly preferred are combinations of carntine and theophylline with glycine, carntin and theophylline with alanine, carntin and theophylline with valine, carntin and theophylline with lysine, carntin and theophylline with leucine, carntin and theophylline with threonine.

Compositions preferably to be used according to the invention contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)

For furanonderviathaltige agent to be used according to the invention protection is sought or protection can be sought; 2-furanone derivatives contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Suitable 2-furanone derivatives, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions to be used according to the invention, are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044964 on pages 34 to 42, the features mentioned there clearly belong implicitly to the description of the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure of this application.

Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to the invention, preferred hair-treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

The compositions used according to the invention may contain, in addition to optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or heal hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below: Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone. Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription. To combat the hormonal influences on the hair follicles spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented. Particular preference is given to cosmetic agents to be used according to the invention which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole. A preferred form of preparation of the hair treatment agent according to the invention takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably contain at least one monohydric alcohol, L-carnitine and / or an L-carnitine derivative, as well as purine and / or a Purine derivative and optionally a gelling agent and optionally at least one specific care enhancer included.

The present invention is in a further embodiment, a hair treatment agent containing

(a) 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol,

(b) 0 to 10% by weight of at least one gelling agent

(c) L-carnitine and / or an L-carnitine derivative as well

(d) purine and / or a purine derivative.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the hair treatment agent according to the invention, what has been said about the uses according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Particularly preferred is a hair treatment agent containing

(b) 0 to 10% by weight of at least one gelling agent

(c) L-carnitine tartrate as well

(d) Theophylline.

The compositions used according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol. Among these, ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 70 Wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain only ethanol. Here are hair treatment compositions according to the invention which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.

The agents used according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent. By using these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents to the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant. Hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred here which, based on their weight, are 0, 15 to 9% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7% by weight, more preferably 0, From 3 to 6% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicic acids and / or layered silicates and / or organophosphorus silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hardened castor oil and / or modified fatty derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) and / or ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and / or Polyvinyl alcohols and / or polyacrylic acid and / or polymethacrylic acids and their salts and / or polyacrylamides and / or polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or polyethylene glycols and / or styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers and their salts and / or copolymers and / or terpolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or Contain cellulose and / or starch and / or xanthan gum.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used according to the invention, in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers (F). Protection is sought or protection can be sought for emulsifier-containing agents to be used in the present invention; Emulsifiers contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Preferred emulsifiers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions according to the invention are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044964 on pages 45 to 46, the features mentioned there are clearly implicit in describing the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content of this application ,

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone

(Benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, ^® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2- phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts (phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol ^® HS ; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), a- (2-oxoborn-3 ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4- aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol 507 ^® , Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan OS ^®, Uvinul ^® 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan e 1000 ^®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Metho xycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Uvinul MS 40; Benzophenone-4 Uvasorb S 5), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3 Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and their ethyl esters, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400) 1 , 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2' , 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'- dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-) yliden) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2 Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-) carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 3'-methyl-4-yl-1-yl); nd 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4- methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor. Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000. Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. In the context of the invention, water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention. According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. These UV filters have the general structure U - Q. The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,

Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂₎ x N ⁺ RR ² R ³ X ^", where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R and R ² are independently CI_ ₄ alkyl groups, R ³ is a Ci_ ₂ 2-alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms ,

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred. The UV filters (I) are commonly used in the compositions used in the invention Quantities 0, 1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The UV filters in the compositions used according to the invention improve the results of the repigmentation process, especially in the long term, and are therefore particularly suitable. More preferably, at least one of the aforementioned UV filters is combined with theophylline and carnitine or carnitine tartrate.

It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents used according to the invention. For polymer-containing agents according to the invention protection is sought or protection can be sought; Polymers contribute to the technical aim of the invention and thus to the solution of the technical problem underlying the application according to the invention. Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions used according to the invention, are disclosed in priority document DE 102009044964 on pages 47 to 49, the features mentioned there belong clearly implicitly to the description of the invention contained in the filed application and thus to the disclosure content thereof Registration.

The agents used in the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight.

Finally, the compositions used according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L). Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, Mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use mixtures of several, in particular two, different plants extra kten in the compositions according to the invention.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the agents used according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing, in particular positive influence on the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis and / or the pigmentation of the hair, to prevent and / or reduce the Hair graying and / or for repigmentation of gray hair, characterized in that a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative with purine and / or a purine derivative, in particular theophylline, more preferably carnitine tartrate and theophylline, topically with hair and / or skin.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made on the uses according to the invention apply.

Example 1: Detection of the differential expression of melanogenesis-relevant genes:

The ligands involved in melanogenesis, such as SCF or alpha-MSH (Melanocyte Stimulating

Hormones alpha) bind to different receptors, through which the corresponding signal into the Cell interior is forwarded. The receptor for SCF is ckit, the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1 (melanocortin receptor 1). Such substances which cause a change in the expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit may influence melanogenesis. In the case of induction (upregulation or stimulation) of the gene expression of the corresponding receptors, a stimulation of the melanogenesis is to be assumed.

Gp100 is a protein found and stabilized in the membrane of melanosomes. Since melanin is increasingly produced in the cells after the application of substances that have a positive influence on melanogenesis, there is an increase in the number of melanosomes required for transport. A substance that induces gene expression of gp100 is therefore a pigment stimulating agent.

Particularly preferred substances which stimulate the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles, are those which both cause gene expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit and also induce gene expression of gp100.

The determination of the extent of the change in gene expression after administration of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can provide information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.

Differential gene expression was determined by quantitative RT-PCR. After preparation of three-dimensional organotypic hair follicle cell cultures from dermal papilla cells on microcarriers, they were incubated for 48 h with theophylline or carnitine tartrate in two different concentrations. To carry out the PCR, the RNA from the organotypic cell cultures is first isolated with the aid of the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective genes and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.

To quantify gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). In this case, values greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression or less than or equal to 0.5 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed. Values greater than or equal to 1.5-fold expression or less than or equal to 0.7-fold expression of the untreated control are considered to tend to be differentially expressed. Table 1: Influence of theophylline and carnitine tartrate on the expression of melanogenesis-regulating genes

For the selected use concentrations of theophylline, induction of gene expression of ckit and gp100 was detected in particular at a use concentration of 10 μΜ in comparison to the untreated control. Carnitine tartrate induced the expression of gp100 in both selected use concentrations.

Example 2: Effect of carnitine tartrate:

L-carnitine and L-carnitine tartrate were studied for their effects on ATP synthesis, the release of the growth factors Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF). ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the universal storage form for chemical energy in cells. Cleavage of the phosphate groups produces ADP and Pi (inorganic phosphate). This reaction is highly exergonic, i. it releases energy. ATP is produced in the cellular, oxidative degradation of fats, carbohydrates and proteins. It serves as an energy supplier for biochemical syntheses (also melanin synthesis), for transport processes (active transport) and for mechanical work. These processes are endergonic, i. they only run with energy. HGF and KGF are important growth factors, with the help of which the dermal papilla controls hair growth and the hair cycle to which the pigment production in the hair follicle is particularly coupled. Melanin formation occurs exclusively in the anagen episode of the hair cycle. In addition, various publications discuss the effects of HGF on DNA synthesis, growth and differentiation of melanocytes.

The ATP determination was carried out using the ATPLite ™ -m assay (Packard). The test principle of this assay is based on the fact that Photinus pyralis luciferase catalyzes a reaction in which D-luciferin is converted to oxyluciferin in the presence of ATP. In this reaction, green light is emitted which can be measured with a luminometer. The emitted bioluminescent light is proportional to the amount of ATP present.

The ATP activity was determined in organotypic cell cultures from three-dimensional cultured dermal papilla cells. The treatment with carnitine and carnitine tartrate occurred over 24 hours against an untreated control. Table 2: ATP content in hair follicle cell cultures after treatment with the amino acid mixture

At the use concentrations of carnitine 0.05% and 0, 1% and carnitine tartrate 0.01%, the ATP content in the treated cultures could be significantly increased compared to the control. The secretion of HGF and KGF can be quantified using a commercially available ELISA kit. For this purpose, organotypic hair follicle cell cultures from dermal papilla cells, hair follicle melanocytes and outer root sheath keratinocytes are incubated with carnitine tartrate over 72 h and the concentration of HGF and KGF in the medium is determined.

Table 3: Relative distribution of HGF and KGF in [%]

At the selected concentrations of use, the content of growth factors in the treated cultures can be significantly increased compared to the untreated control.

Claims

claims:

1. Use of a combination of carnitine and / or at least one carnitine derivative with purine and / or at least one purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the natural pigmentation process of the hair is influenced, in particular stimulated, is.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that at least one sub-step of the natural pigmentation process is stimulated.

4. Use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the pigmentation of the hair is stimulated and / or improved.

5. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the melanogenesis, in particular in the hair follicle, influenced, preferably stimulated, is.

6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hair graying is prevented and / or reduced.

7. Use according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the gray hair is repigmented.

8. Use according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the use is made topically.

Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the use is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic use.

10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carnitine derivative is selected from carnitine tartrate, acetyl carnitine, carnitine fumarate, carnitine citrate, lauroyl carnitine and more preferably carnitine tartrate.

1 1. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the purine derivative is selected from adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purine thiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline.

12. Use according to claim 1 1, characterized in that the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, in particular theophylline.

13. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of the amount of purine and / or a purine derivative to the total amount of carnitine and / or carnitine derivative of 30: 1 to 1: 30, in particular of 10: 1 to 1: 10, more preferably 7: 1 to 1: 7, most preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 4.

14. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the purine or purine derivative is used in a cosmetic agent, the purine or the purine derivative in a total amount of 0.00001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.005 - 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains.

Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that carnitine and / or the carnitine derivative is used in a cosmetic composition containing carnitine and / or the carnitine derivative in a total amount of from 0.000001 to 15% by weight. , preferably 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains.

16. A method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulating the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing the hair graying and / or for the repigmentation of grayed hair, characterized in that bringing a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative with purine and / or a purine derivative topically with hair and / or skin in contact.

17. hair treatment composition containing

a. 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol,

b. 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent

c. L-carnitine and / or an L-carnitine derivative as well

d. Purine and / or a purine derivative.