WO2011035945A2 - Use of a combination of carnitine and/or a carnitine derivative with purine and/or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation process - Google Patents

Use of a combination of carnitine and/or a carnitine derivative with purine and/or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation process Download PDF

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WO2011035945A2
WO2011035945A2 PCT/EP2010/060032 EP2010060032W WO2011035945A2 WO 2011035945 A2 WO2011035945 A2 WO 2011035945A2 EP 2010060032 W EP2010060032 W EP 2010060032W WO 2011035945 A2 WO2011035945 A2 WO 2011035945A2
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Prior art keywords
carnitine
wt
preferably
hair
purine
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PCT/EP2010/060032
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German (de)
French (fr)
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WO2011035945A3 (en )
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Melanie Giesen
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Edo Hoting
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4953Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom containing pyrimidine ring derivatives, e.g. minoxidil
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/70Biological properties of the composition as a whole

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a combination of carnitine and/or a carnitine derivative with purine and/or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and/or cutaneous appendages.

Description

Using a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative having purine and / or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation

The invention relates to the use of a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative, particularly carnitine tartrate, purine and / or a purine derivative, particularly theophylline, for influencing the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages.

Hair have not to be underestimated psychosocial function in addition to their actual physiological function as thermal insulation and light protection. They serve as a means of interpersonal communication and make a sign of individuality is. Changes, such as the graying can lead to a major impairment of self-consciousness of the person concerned.

Up to now, do not fight the causes of hair graying, but treats the hair to gray coverage with the help of chemical often aggressive and damaging the hair colorants. In addition, customers often complain about lack of compatibility (itching, burning, stinging) and sustainability (approach must be nachgefärbt regularly). The effectiveness of the few on the market biological products has not been scientifically proven and often doubtful. Significantly effective, biologically active agents that affect the Ergrauungsprozess directly at the root, are not used.

The pigmentation of the hair follicle is controlled by a complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis is obviously influenced grizzled follicles can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in their role in graying follicle. A consequence is the reduction of melanin synthesis leading to graying of the follicle. To the complex set of molecular signals which affect melanogenesis, include the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1) gp100 and c-kit. MCR1 and c-kit, the key signals of melanogenesis by the binding of their ligands alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone and stem cell factor are receptors, passing into the cell. Gp100 is a protein of Melanosomenmembran and also regulates other proteins melanogneserelevante. Since these parameters are of essential importance in the Haarfollikelpigmentierung are, it is of advantage to influence these parameters when the melanin synthesis is to be maintained in the hair follicle cells, or reactivated through the application of a test formulation. By appropriate drug formulations, the pigmentation and thus obtain youthfulness of hair, is a challenge for cosmetic research.

From the state of the art (WO91 / 07945) describes the use of xanthines for stimulating pigmentation of the skin and hair is well known.

L-carnitine is a vitamin-like drug, which is related with the vitamins of the B complex, and is essentially important for energy production and lipid metabolism of the human body. For this reason, L-carnitine is mainly used as a dietary supplement (US20040170709 A1). As well as L-carnitine is also L-carnitine tartrate use as a dietary supplement, for example, to support weight reduction (US20040028668 A1). The use of carnitine for influencing the natural pigmentation was not known.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide active compounds which are suitable, the natural pigmentation, particularly in the hair or hair follicles to influence still better, without the described disadvantages of the known prior art methods for influencing hair color or Haarergrauungsgrad exhibit and youthful appearance of the hair.

The object is achieved by the use of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative having purine and / or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages.

As a first ingredient, the agent used in the invention can therefore comprise purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine. Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) is released in not occur naturally, but forming the main body of the purines. Purines in turn a group are important in nature widespread and human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes involved compounds derived from the basic body by substitution with OH, NH 2, SH in the 2-, 6- and 8-positions and / derived or with CH 3 in the 1, 3, 7-position. Purine can be made for example of amino acetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are synthetically accessible in many ways. Under purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are inventively particularly preferred. According to the invention, preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they purine and / or purine derivative (s) containing the formula (PU-I)

Figure imgf000003_0001

in which the radicals R, R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH2, -SH and the radicals R 4, R 5 and R 6 are independently selected from -H, -CH 3 and -CH 2 - CH 3, whereby the following compounds are preferred:

Purine (R = R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

Adenine (R = NH 2, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

Guanine (R = OH, R 2 = NH 2, R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

Uric acid (R = R 2 = R 3 = OH, R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

Hypoxanthine (R = OH, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

6-purinethiol (R = SH, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H) - 6-thioguanine (R = SH, R 2 = NH 2, R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- xanthine (R = R 2 = OH, R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)

- caffeine (R = R 2 = OH, R 3 = H, R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = CH 3)

- theobromine (R = R 2 = OH, R 3 = R 4 = H, R 5 = R 6 = H)

- Theophylline (R = R 2 = OH, R 3 = H, R 4 = CH 3, R 5 = CH 3, R 6 = H)

Preferably, the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline.

It can further according to invention also purine and / or purine derivative-containing extracts are used.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the purine or purine derivative is used in a cosmetic product, the purine or the purine derivative in a total amount from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent contains. If at least one purine and purine derivative or two or more purine derivatives are used together, the total amounts / ratios each refer to the amount of all purines used (including the purine derivatives).

Another component of the present invention to be used in combination carnitine (3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonium) buttersäurebetain, [(R) -3-carboxy-2- hydroxypropyljtrimethylammoniumbetain), particularly preferably L-carnitine.

Further preferably also carnitine derivatives can be used. Preferred carnitine derivatives are in particular selected from carnitine tartrate, acetyl-carnitine, carnitine fumarate, carnitine

Citrate, lauroyl carnitine and particularly preferably carnitine tartrate. Particularly preferably, the L-

Carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine, and particularly preferred L-carnitine tartrate. Said L-carnitine compounds are for example from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).

Particularly preferred are the L-carnitine derivatives acetylcarnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine are

Citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate.

Preferred combinations are carnitine and xanthine, carnitine and caffeine, carnitine and theobromine, particularly carnitine and theophylline; Acetyl-carnitine and xanthine, acetyl-carnitine and caffeine, acetyl-carnitine and theobromine, especially acetyl-carnitine and theophylline; Carnitine fumarate and xanthine, carnitine fumarate and caffeine, carnitine fumarate and theobromine, particularly carnitine fumarate, and theophylline; Carnitine citrate, and xanthine, carnitine citrate and caffeine, carnitine, citrate and theobromine, particularly carnitine citrate, and theophylline; Lauroyl carnitine and xanthine, lauroyl carnitine and caffeine, lauroyl carnitine and theobromine, especially lauroyl-carnitine and theophylline. Particularly preferred combinations are carnitine tartrate and xanthine, caffeine and carnitine tartrate, carnitine-tartrate and theobromine, particularly carnitine tartrate and theophylline.

Another particularly preferred combination is the combination of carnitine with caffeine and Theopyhllin, especially the combination of carnitine tartrate with caffeine and theophylline. The above-mentioned preferred combinations are capable to stimulate at least a portion of the natural pigmentation process step in a synergistic manner.

In a preferred embodiment, the ratio of the amount of purine and / or the purine derivative to the total amount of carnitine and / or carnitine derivative of 30: 1 to 1: 30, preferably 20: 1 to 1: 20, in particular 10: 1 to 1: 10, more preferably from 7: 1 to 1: 7, most preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 4.

1 to 1: More preferably, the ratio of the amount of purine to the total amount of carnitine is from 10 10, in particular from 7: 1 to 1: 7, preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 4. 1 to 1: Most preferably, the ratio of the amount of theophylline to the total amount of the carnitine tartrate of 20 is 20, preferably 10: 1 to 1: 10, especially from 7: 1 to 1: 7, more preferably 4: 1 to 1: 4.

According to a further preferred embodiment, carnitine and / or carnitine derivative is used in a cosmetic product which carnitine and / or carnitine derivative in a total amount from 0.000001 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent contains. If carnitine and at least one carnitine derivative or two or more carnitine derivatives are used together, the total amounts / ratios (and therefore also that of the carnitine derivatives) each refer to the amount of all Carnitine used.

Particularly preferred combinations are in according to the invention to use resources from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% carnitine, and 0.000001 -3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, extremely preferably 0.0003 to 0.05 wt .-% theobromine in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

Particularly preferred combinations are in according to the invention to use resources from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% carnitine, and from 0.000001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, extremely preferably 0.0003 to 0.05 wt .-% xanthine in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

Further particularly preferred combinations are in according to the invention to use resources from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably .001 to 0.5 wt .-% carnitine, and from 0.000001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.0003 to 0, 05 wt .-% caffeine, in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Very particularly preferred combinations are in according to the invention to use resources from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% carnitine, and from 0.000001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.0003 to 0, 05 wt .-% of theophylline in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Particularly preferred combinations are in according to the invention to use resources from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% carnitine tartrate, and 0.000001 -3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.0003 to 0 , 05 wt .-% of theobromine based on the total weight of the composition. Particularly preferred combinations are in according to the invention to use resources from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% carnitine tartrate, and from 0.000001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.0003 to 0 , 05 wt .-% xanthine in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Further particularly preferred combinations are in according to the invention to use resources from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably .001 to 0.5 wt .-% carnitine tartrate, and from 0.000001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, extremely preferably 0.0003 - 0.05 wt .-% caffeine, in each case based on the total weight of the composition. Highly preferred are combinations in accordance with the invention to use resources from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% carnitine tartrate, and 0.000001 -3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.0003 to 0 , 05 wt .-% of theophylline in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

Preference is given in a further preferred embodiment in accordance with the invention to use resources from 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0001 - 1 wt .-%, extremely preferably 0,001 - 0.5 wt .-% carnitine tartrate, and from 0.000001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, extremely preferably 0 , 0003 to 0.05 wt .-% theophylline and 0.000001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt .-%, extremely preferably 0 , 0003 to 0.05 wt .-% caffeine in each case based on the total weight of the composition. It has surprisingly been found that the use of a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative, particularly carnitine tartrate with purine and / or purine derivative, in particular theophylline, is capable of the natural pigmentation, particularly in the hair or to affect hair follicles to stimulate particular. The combination according to the invention induces both the gene expression of MCR-1 and the gp100 of c-kit and in a synergistic manner. In addition, an increase in melanin synthesis was observed. Further, the natural pigmentation process by increasing the available ATP content and the Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) is a positive influence in the hair follicles.

By applying the combination of the invention or of the means according to the invention thus the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages can be influenced, in particular to be stimulated. In particular, this may in particular stimulates the natural pigmentation of the hair, the hair follicle or influenced in hair follicles are. The inventive agents used are suitable to stimulate the pigmentation of the hair and / or improve, stimulate melanogenesis, especially in the hair follicles to prevent hair graying and / or reduce and to repigmentieren gray hair.

Under the concept of influencing the natural pigmentation is in the context of the present invention, the positive or negative influence on the natural coloring / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, ie biological pigmentation in skin and / or skin appendages, hair or hair follicles insbesonderen understood.

Under the skin and skin appendages in the context of this invention are the skin, mucous membrane, hair and their hair follicles, glands and nails, especially skin, mucous membrane, hair and hair follicles to understand. Particularly preferred the term skin the skin is to be understood without mucosa. Very particularly preferably by the term skin appendages is hair or hair follicles, preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair, most preferably beard and head hair, very preferably to understand head hair or the corresponding hair follicles.

According to a preferred embodiment, the positive or negative influence is meant at least one partial step of the natural pigmentation under the influence of the natural pigmentation. This influence concerns in particular the regulation of such molecular signals that affect the biological or natural pigmentation.

the regulation of the biological or natural pigmentation process is preferably carried gene regulation, that is the regulation of expression level and / or enzyme regulation, that is the regulation for activity level, and / or the regulation of hormone levels.

Particularly preferred is the regulation of melanogenesis, including the regulation of gene expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1) gp100 and c-kit. Furthermore, the regulation of tyrosinase, both the gene expression of the tyrosinase as well as the regulation includes enzyme level.

According to a preferred embodiment of the natural pigmentation of the hair is affected, in particular stimulated or stimulated. In particular, the influencing positively influencing, preferably the positive regulation (up-regulation or activation or stimulation or increase) understood, which leads to a stimulation of the natural, biological pigmentation. Particularly preferred is the stimulation of melanogenesis in human hair follicles, in particular of head hair (the hair follicles that / are located on the scalp to the top of the head).

According to the invention of the pigmentation, in particular the melanogenesis of the skin and skin appendages, are preferred affects the hair or the hair follicle. In particular, the natural pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis in mammals, particularly preferred are affected in humans. the pigmentation is preferred, preferably melanogenesis of human hair or the human hair follicle affected.

Under stimulation of melanogenesis, preferably of melanogenesis in the hair follicle, the invention particularly preferably stimulating, increasing, or improving stimulation of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes (preferably, the melanocytes in the hair follicle) to understand. This is ckit achieved for example by increasing the gene expression of signaling molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), as well as gp100. According to a preferred embodiment, the positive influence, preferably stimulation of melanogenesis is achieved by the inventive use. In particular, the melanogenesis in the hair or hair follicles of the scalp and / or beard is stimulated in particular in humans. For the purposes of the present invention is under the stimulation of pigmentation in particular improving, increasing and / or stimulating the transport of the melanosomes in the follicle surrounding keratinocytes and further the perceptible with the eye or other appropriate measurement methods pigmentation of the individual hair, a selection of hair to understand in particular an area hairy skin, especially the scalp, or the whole head and / or beard hair.

In a preferred embodiment, the inventive use, the hair graying, in particular of human hair, preferably substantially prevents prevented and / or reduced. Among hair graying is to be understood in the context of the present invention, both the visually perceptible through the mixture of white and pigmented hair graying, as well as for pigment dilution in a single hair, so the graying of a single hair.

Prevention of hair graying occurs especially in not gray hair, a reduction of hair graying can take place both with already graying as well as not yet gray hair. In the one case, the hair follicles in which melanogenesis not, no longer or not fully functional or is disturbed or reduced, again excited to melanogenesis / stimulated, while in non-gray hair / hair follicles a disorder reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis do takes place not only, or only to a lesser extent.

According to a further preferred embodiment is already gray hair by the inventive use of a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative having purine and / or a purine derivative, in particular by using a combination of theophylline and carnitine or carnitine tartrate, preferably theophylline and carnitine tartrate repigmentiert.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment, in the inventive use is a cosmetic use, which is non-therapeutic. In particular, the use according to the invention, aimed at the object resulting from the natural aging process, particularly non-pathological hair graying, is a purely cosmetic use, which is not the treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease, and thus is non-therapeutic. therefore refers in particular to the non-pathological, non-disease-related hair graying.

According to a particular embodiment, the use according to the invention takes place topically, that is by application to the skin and / or skin appendages, particularly the face and / or scalp, particularly the scalp.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention exhibit improved care effects on skin and hair. Especially on keratinous fibers, the positive effects are pronounced, so that preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are hair treatment compositions.

Hair treatment compositions according to the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, hair bleaching, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, permanent wave fixing, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair setting compositions, hair setting compositions, hair styling preparations, Fönwell - lotions, mousse, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they are formulated as a shampoo, hair tonics, hair treatment, hair rinse, hair mousse, hair setting lotion, hair spray, hair gel and / or Haarfärbemitte. In view of the fact that the consumer of time and convenience shrink often the use of several different agents and / or multiple application steps, these means are particularly advantageous.

According to a preferred embodiment at least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils is also preferably contained.

The means used in this invention may include other active ingredients and excipients. These are described below.

The inventive use compositions may contain surfactants, especially cationic surfactants. For inventive use surfactant agent protection is sought or may be sought protection; Surfactants, in particular cationic surfactants contribute to the technical object of the invention, and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application technical problem. Preferred surfactants, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions of the invention are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044964 on pages 10 to 20, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus to the content of this application , Particularly preferred hair treatment composition according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as the cationic care substance - based on its weight - 0,05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic surfactant (s) (e) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or esterquats and / or the amidoamine contained, preferred cationic (s) surfactant (s) is / are selected from alkyl trimethylammoniumchloriden with preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or dialkyldimethylammonium with preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl and / or trialkyl with preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and / or distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and / or lauryl and / or lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and / or Tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-83, and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (ditalgacyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (distearoyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or N, N-dimethyl-N, N-distearoyloxyethyl- ammonium chloride and / or N, N-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (fettsäureesterethyl) - ammonium chloride. As a further optional ingredient, the agent used in the invention 0.01 to 10 wt .-% may contain at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers. For inventive use polymer-containing means protection is sought or may be sought protection; Polymers, especially cationic polymers contribute to the technical object of the invention, and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application technical problem. Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are included in accordance with the invention to be used in compositions are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044964 on pages 20 to 30, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus to the content this application.

A further preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances designated as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-ι) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2). The beta-carotene is a provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention are for example vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde, and Vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate. The means used in the invention include vitamin A component preferably used in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex vitamin B-ι include (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), Vitamin B3. Under this designation, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. According to the invention, the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the used in the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition, is. Also this includes vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Within this group, panthenol and / or pantolactone is preferably used. According to the invention usable derivatives of panthenol are the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol, panthenol nolmonoethylether and its monoacetate, and those disclosed in WO 92/13829 the cationic panthenol. The compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are in accordance with the invention used preferably in amounts of 0.05 - 10 wt .-% contain, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0, 1 - 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Furthermore, it can be used Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in accordance with the invention used in amounts of from 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols can likewise be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate are, in accordance with the invention used preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total composition , Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H., the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-Oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] Vitamin H - referred imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however in the meantime the trivial name biotin has. Biotin is in accordance with the invention used preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 percent by .-%, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agent used in the invention contain a combination of at least one tocopherol or tocopherol ester with carnitine and / or an Carnitinderviat and theophylline.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agent used in the invention are characterized in that they contain as a conditioning substance - based on its weight - from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0, 1 weight % of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one of ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, said means particularly preferred to use coenzyme Q 10, preferably 0.005 to 0, 1 percent by .-%. As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to the means used in the invention may also contain plastoquinones (polyprenylierte 2,3-dimethylbenzoquinone derivatives). Here are preferred used in the invention characterized in that it contains from 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and comprise, in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone. The prenyl contains n prenyl units. Values ​​for n is from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and especially 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, wherein agents particularly preferably to be used contain a plastoquinone with n = 9 are preferred.

It is also advantageous, purine or purine derivatives a) and) b bioquinones use (in particular ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones) in a certain ratio to each other. Here are used in the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of components a) and b) is 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably from 5: 1 to 1: 50, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 20 and especially 1: 1 to 1: 10th

As already mentioned, theophylline and caffeine particularly preferred purine derivatives, and the coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred bioquinone. used in the invention means that in addition carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative, are therefore characterized in that it is particularly preferred - based on its weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt %, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine or theophylline and 0.0002 part to 4 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 3 wt .-% , more preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.0015 to 1, and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 contained.

As further ingredient, the agent used in the invention may with particular advantage contain one or more amino acids. According to the invention particularly preferably usable amino acids are from the group of glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ß alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dOPA), 5' hydroxy -L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine ​​sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid) L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, both the individual amino acids as well as mixtures can be used. Preferred agents used in this invention contain one or more amino acids in the narrower ranges of amounts. Here are preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention characterized in that they contain as a conditioning substance - based on its weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 % by weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

Particularly preferred is a combination of theophylline and Carntintartrat with glycine, Carntintartrat and theophylline with alanine, Carntintartrat and theophylline with valine, Carntintartrat and theophylline with lysine, Carntintartrat and theophylline with leucine, Carntintartrat and theophylline with threonine. Also particularly preferred are combinations of Carntin and theophylline with glycine, Carntin and theophylline with alanine, Carntin and theophylline with valine, Carntin and theophylline with lysine, Carntin and theophylline with leucine, Carntin and theophylline with threonine.

Means according to the invention preferably to be used as a conditioner containing - based on its weight - 0,01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of at least one 2-furanone derivative of formula (Fur-I) and / or formula (Fur-Il)

Figure imgf000013_0001

For inventive use furanonderviathaltige means protection is sought or may be sought protection; 2-furanone derivatives contribute to the technical object of the invention, and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application technical problem. Suitable 2-furanone derivatives, the amounts in which they are included in accordance with the invention to be used in compositions are disclosed in the priority document DE 102 009 044 964 on pages 34 to 42, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus the disclosure of this application.

Another, more preferably usable care substance, which has activating properties is taurine this. Preferred hair treatment compositions as a care substance - based on its weight - 0,01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

The means used in this invention may additionally contain other substances to optional further ingredients, prevent, alleviate or cure the hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below: Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only drug that is approved worldwide for the efficacy and safety has been demonstrated in numerous studies. Propecia causes less DHT from testosterone can form. Minoxidil is with or without additional additives, the oldest demonstrably acting hair restorer. it must be used only for external use for the treatment of hair loss. There are hair lotion containing 2% -5% minoxidil, also gel with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage in hair tonics minoxidil but only up to 5% portion is soluble. In many countries, Hair water with up to 2% Minoxidilgehalt are without prescription available. For the control of hormonal effects on the hair follicle for external application Spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be employed. Spironolactone acts as androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented. inventive use cosmetic products are particularly preferred which additionally - comprise from 0.001 to 5 wt .-% hair root stabilizing materials, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole - based on its weight. A preferred packaging form of the hair treatment composition of the invention takes the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably include at least one monohydric alcohol, L-Carnitih and / or L-carnitine Derviat as well as purine and / or a purine derivative, and optionally a gelling agent and optionally at least one particular care enhancer included.

The present invention is in a further embodiment of a hair-treatment composition comprising

(A) 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, Isoporopanol, n-butanol,

(B) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent

(C) L-carnitine and / or an L-carnitine derivative and

(D) purine and / or a purine derivative.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the hair treatment agent according to the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the novel uses of said.

Particularly preferred is a hair treatment composition comprising

(A) 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, Isoporopanol, n-butanol,

(B) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent

(C) L-carnitine tartrate and

(D) theophylline.

The means according to the invention contain 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, Isoporopanol, n-butanol. Under these ethanol and / or ispopropanol are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred hair treatment composition according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - based on its weight - 0,5 to 85 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 80 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 75 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% of ethanol and / or isopropanol included.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain only ethanol. Here are hair treatment compositions according to the invention, which - based on its weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% of ethanol included is particularly preferred.

The means used in this invention may additionally comprise a gelling agent. By using these gelling agents, the liability of the funds on the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant. Here, hair treatment agents are preferred, which - based on its weight - 0, 15 to 9 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 3 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent from the group of silicas and / or layer silicates and / or Organoschichtsilicate and / or metal soaps and / or hydrogenated castor oil and / or modified fatty acid derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC) and / or ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (EHEC), and / or polyvinyl alcohols and / or polyacrylic acid and / or polymethacrylic and salts and / or polyacrylamides and / or polyvinylpyrrolidone, and / or polyethylene and / or styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers and salts thereof and / or copolymers and / or terpolymers of acrylic acid and Methacr oic acid and / or cellulose and / or starch and / or xanthan included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions used in the invention, in particular the erfindunsgemäßen hair lotions and / or hair tonics can contain emulsifiers (F). For inventive use emulsifier means protection is sought or may be sought protection; Emulsifiers contribute to the technical object of the invention and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application engineering task. Preferred emulsifiers, the amounts in which they are contained in compositions of the invention are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044964 on pages 45 to 46, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus to the content of this application ,

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent of the invention also UV - contain filter (I). The inventive use UV filters are not generally limited in terms of their structure and their physical properties. Instead, all used in the cosmetic field UV filters having an absorption maximum in the UVA (315-400 nm) -, in the UVB (280-315) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters having an absorption maximum in the UVB region, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. The UV filter according to the invention can for example be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylates, cinnamates, salicylates, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. Examples of suitable UV filters according to the invention are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate (Homosalate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone

(Benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2- phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts (phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol ® HS ; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ® 1789 Eusolex ® 9020), a- (2-oxoborn-3 ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4- aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ® DMO, Escalol 507 ® , Eusolex ® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ® 587, Neo Heliopan OS ®, Uvinul ® 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan e 1000 ®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid -2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Metho xycinnamate; Parsol ® MCX, Escalol ® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul MS 40; Uvasorb S 5), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ® 5000, Eusolex ® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3- imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N- { (2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ® 20 H, Uvinul ® 400) 1, 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ® OCR, Neo Heliopan ® Type 303, Uvinul ® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone -2; Uvinul ® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2 cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl. 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate, are preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone , sulfonic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) - bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, a- (2-oxoborn-3- ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4- methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2 -hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and (the sodium salt thereof, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- p- carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 u nd 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. According to the invention are very particularly preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and (the potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- 4- methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor. those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient of 15, 000 above, in particular above 20000, at the absorption maximum are preferred. Furthermore, it was found that with structurally similar UV filters, in many cases, the water-insoluble compound having the higher activity against such water-soluble compounds in the context of the teaching according to the invention, which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. As water-insoluble are to be understood as UV filters in the context of the invention, which at 20 ° C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular not more than 0.1 wt .-%, dissolves in water. Furthermore, these compounds should be wt .-% soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred in the invention. According to another embodiment of the invention, UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. These UV filters have the general structure U - Q. The structural moiety U stands for a UV absorbing group. This group can in principle from the prior art, used in the cosmetic field, derived above-mentioned UV filters, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function, ,

Compounds from which the structural moiety U may be derived are for example substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Structural parts U derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred in the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters in both the UVA (315-400 nm) -, and in the UVB (280-315) - (<280 nm) range may be or UVC. UV filters having an absorption maximum in the UVB region, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural moiety U, as a function of structural element Q is preferably chosen so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter higher than 15,000, in particular above 20000, at the absorption maximum.

The structural element Q contains as cationic group is preferably a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group may be directly connected to the structural moiety U, in principle, so that the structural moiety U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents at the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which acts as a link between the structural moiety U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2) x N + RR 2 R 3 X ", where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R and R 2 are independently CI_ 4 alkyl groups, R 3 represents a CI_ 2 2-alkyl group or a benzyl group and X "is a physiologically acceptable anion. Within this general structure, x is preferably the number 3, R and R 2 are each a methyl group and R 3 is either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having from 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms ,

Physiologically compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, particularly chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions, and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV-filters. Within this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter is preferably at least one UV filter having a cationic group. The UV filter (I) are usually contained in the used in the invention in amounts 0, 1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% being preferred.

The UV filters in the inventively used agents improve the results of Repigmentierungsprozesses, particularly in the long term, and are therefore particularly suitable. at least one of the above-mentioned UV filters with theophylline and carnitine or carnitine tartrate is particularly preferably combined.

As a further, it has been found advantageous if, in addition to or instead of polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, other polymers (G) are contained in the used in the invention means. For inventive polymer-containing means protection is sought or may be sought protection; Polymers contribute to the technical object of the invention, and thus the underlying to the solution of the invention according to the application technical problem. Preferred polymers, the amounts in which they are contained in used in the invention compositions are disclosed in the priority document DE 102009044964 on pages 47 to 49, the given therein are clearly implied to the description of the invention contained in the application as filed, and thus to the content of this Registration.

The agents used in this invention may further comprises a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and derivatives thereof (J) included. The sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts are those in which the ammonium ion addition to hydrogen, one to three d- to C 4 - alkyl groups bears. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the present invention means are preferably used from 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total composition, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and particularly 0, 1 to 3 wt.%.

Finally, the agents used in the invention may also contain plant extracts (L). Typically these extracts are prepared by extracting the entire plant. but it can in some cases also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the present invention usable plant extracts is made in particular to the extracts listed in the on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the introduction to the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW), Frankfurt, incipient table lists.

According to the invention, the extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almond, aloe vera, pine needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon , preferably wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's smock, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, Hauhechel, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, are rosemary, birch, lady's smock, wild thyme, yarrow, rest harrow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. especially suitable for use in the invention, the extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi and melon are.

As extraction agents for producing the plant extracts mentioned water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant or in a mixture with water, preferably. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1: 10 to 10: 1 have proved to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure form or in dilute form. If they are used in diluted form, they typically contain ca. 2 - 80 wt .-% of active substance and solvent as the extraction agent used to obtain them or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the invention compositions used according mixtures of several, more particularly two, different plant specially kth.

In addition, it may prove to be advantageous if in accordance with the invention used the means penetration auxiliaries and / or swelling agent (M) are included. For this purpose, are, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine, and derivatives thereof, water glass, imidazole and derivatives thereof, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols, and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2- hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing, particularly positive influence on the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation, in particular of melanogenesis and / or pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing the hair graying and / or for repigmentation of gray hair, characterized in that a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative having purine and / or a purine derivative, in particular theophylline, particularly preferably carnitine tartrate and theophylline, topically with hair and / or brings skin contact.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the inventive method applies mutatis mutandis to the novel uses of said.

Example 1: Detection of differential expression of genes melanogeneserelevanten:

The ligands involved in melanogenesis as SCF or alpha-MSH (melanocyte-stimulating

Hormones alpha) bind to different receptors through which the corresponding signal is forwarded to the cell interior. The receptor for SCF is c-kit, the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1 (melanocortin receptor 1). Such substances, which cause a change in the expression of MCR-1 and / or c-kit can affect melanogenesis. In the case of induction (up-regulation or stimulation) of the gene expression of the receptors entsprecheden is to start from a stimulation of melanogenesis.

Gp100 is a protein found in the membrane of melanosomes and stabilize them. Since, increased melanin is produced in the cells after application of substances which positively influence melanogenesis, it also comes to an increase in the time required to transport melanosomes. Therefore, a substance that induces the gene expression of gp100, is a pigmentation stimulierenderWirkstoff.

Particularly preferred substances stimuieren the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, particularly the hair and hair follicles, are those which induce gene expression of both the MCR-1 and / or induce c-kit as well as the gene expression of gp100.

The determination of the extent of alteration of gene expression by an application of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can yield information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.

The differential gene expression was determined by RT-PCR quantitatitiver. After preparation of three-dimensional organotypic Haarfollikelzellkulturen from dermal papilla cells on microcarriers, these were incubated for 48h with theophylline or carnitine tartrate in two different concentrations. To perform the PCR Qiagen, first using the RNeasy Mini Kit of the company. RNA from the organotypic cell cultures isolated and transcribed into cDNA by reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction which is carried out using gene-specific primers for respective genes and is used to amplify the desired gene segments, the formation of PCR products is detected online via a fluorescent signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of PCR product formed. The stronger is the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product formed and the higher is the fluorescence signal.

To quantify the gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of genes to be determined based on it (x-fold expression). In this case, values ​​/ equal to 1, 8 times the expression or less than / equal to the 0.5fachen expression of the untreated control are significantly larger than be classified differentially expressed. Values ​​equal to 1, 5 times the expression or less than / equal to the 0.7fachen expression of the untreated control are larger / classified as differentially expressed tended. Table 1: Effect of theophylline and carnitine tartrate on the expression of genes regulating melanogenese-

Figure imgf000021_0001

For the selected use concentrations of theophylline induction of gene expression of c-kit and gp100 when compared to the untreated control was insebsondere detected at a use concentration of 10 μΜ. Carnitine tartrate induced in two selected use concentrations, the expression of gp100.

Example 2: Effect of carnitine tartrate:

L-carnitine and L-carnitine tartrate were evaluated for their effects on ATP synthesis, the release of growth factors, hepatocyte growth factor (HGF) and keratinocyte growth factor (KGF) was investigated. ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the universal storage form of chemical energy in cells. In the cleavage of the phosphate groups ADP and Pi (inorganic phosphate). This reaction is highly exergonic, ie, it is energy. ATP is produced during cellular oxidative degradation of fats, carbohydrates and proteins. It serves as an energy source for biochemical synthesis (also melanin synthesis) for transport processes (active transport), and for mechanical work. These processes are endergonic, meaning they only run the input of energy. HGF and KGF are important growth factors, by means of which the dermal papilla control hair growth and the hair growth cycle to which the pigment production in the hair follicle is coupled in a special way. Melanin formation takes place exclusively in the Anagenpahse the hair cycle. In addition, in various publications, the effect of HGF on the DNA synthesis, the growth and differentiation of melanocytes is discussed.

The ATP was determined using the ATPLiteTM-M assay (Packard). The test principle of this assay is based on that the luciferase of Photinus pyralis catalyzes a reaction in the presence of ATP converted to D-luciferin in oxyluciferin. In this reaction, the green light is emitted, which can be measured with a luminometer. The emitted bioluminescent light is proportional to the amount of ATP present.

The determination of the ATP activity was in organotypic cell cultures of three-dimensionally cultured dermal papilla cells. Treatment with carnitine and carnitine tartrate was performed over 24 hours against an untreated control. Table 2: ATP content in Haarfollikelzellkulturen after treatment with the amino acid mixture

Figure imgf000022_0001

In use concentrations carnitine 0.05%, and 0, 1% carnitine tartrate and 0.01% of the ATP content was increased in the treated cultures was significant compared to control. The release of HGF and KGF can be quantified using one commercially available ELISA kits. By organotypic Haarfollikelzellkulturen from dermal papilla, hair follicle melanocytes and Outer Root Sheath keratinocytes are incubated for 72h with carnitine tartrate, and the concentration of HGF and KGF in the medium.

Table 3: Relative distribution of HGF and KGF in [%]

Figure imgf000022_0002

increased at the chosen use concentrations levels of growth factors in the treated cultures significantly compared to the untreated control.

Claims

claims:
1. Use of a combination of carnitine and / or at least a carnitine derivative having purine and / or at least one purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages.
2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the natural pigmentation of the hair affected, in particular stimulated is.
3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that at least part of the natural pigmentation step is stimulated.
4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the pigmentation of the hair stimulating and / or improved.
5. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the melanogenesis, especially in the hair follicle, affecting, preferably is stimulated.
6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hair graying prevented and / or reduced.
7. Use according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the gray hair is repigmentiert.
8. Use according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the use takes place topically.
9. Use according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the use is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic use.
10. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carnitine derivative is selected from carnitine tartrate, acetyl-carnitine, carnitine fumarate, citrate carnitine, lauroyl-carnitine and particularly preferably carnitine tartrate.
1 1. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the purine derivative is selected from adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6- thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline.
12. Use according to claim 1 1, characterized in that the purine derivative is selected from xanthine, caffeine, theobromine and theophylline, especially theophylline.
13. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of the amount of purine and / or a purine derivative to the total amount of carnitine and / or carnitine derivative of 30: 1 to 1: 30, in particular 10: 1 to 1: 10, preferably particularly preferably 7: 1 to 1: 7, most preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 4.
14. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the purine or purine derivative is used in a cosmetic product, the purine or the purine derivative in a total amount from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent contains.
15. Use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carnitine carnitine derivative is used in a cosmetic product, and / or which carnitine and / or carnitine derivative in a total amount from 0.000001 to 15 wt .-% , preferably from 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably from 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent contains.
16. A method for influencing the natural pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation, in particular of melanogenesis and / or pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing the graying and / or for repigmentation grayed hair, characterized in that one brings a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative having purine and / or a purine derivative topically with hair and / or skin in contact.
17. Hair treatment composition comprising
a. 0.1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, Isoporopanol, n-butanol,
b. 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent
c. L-carnitine and / or an L-carnitine derivative and
d. Purine and / or a purine derivative.
PCT/EP2010/060032 2009-09-24 2010-07-13 Use of a combination of carnitine and/or a carnitine derivative with purine and/or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation process WO2011035945A3 (en)

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WO2012055581A3 (en) * 2010-10-28 2013-01-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Use of purine and/or a purine derivative and at least one amino acid for influencing the natural pigmentation process
WO2012055580A3 (en) * 2010-10-28 2013-02-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Use of purine and/or a purine derivative and at least one biochinone for influencing the natural pigmentation process

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DE102009044964A1 (en) 2009-09-24 2011-03-31 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Using a combination of carnitine and / or a carnitine derivative having purine and / or a purine derivative for influencing the natural pigmentation
DE102014212921A1 (en) 2014-07-03 2016-01-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Use of specific oligopeptides for stimulating the natural pigmentation in skin appendages

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WO1992013829A1 (en) 1991-02-06 1992-08-20 Smith Ronald J Quaternized panthenol compounds and their use
US20040170709A1 (en) 1998-10-20 2004-09-02 Hastings Carl W. Performance-enhancing dietary supplement
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WO2012055581A3 (en) * 2010-10-28 2013-01-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Use of purine and/or a purine derivative and at least one amino acid for influencing the natural pigmentation process
WO2012055580A3 (en) * 2010-10-28 2013-02-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Use of purine and/or a purine derivative and at least one biochinone for influencing the natural pigmentation process

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