WO2010079041A1 - Agents cosmétiques comprenant des extraits de bois précieux - Google Patents

Agents cosmétiques comprenant des extraits de bois précieux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010079041A1
WO2010079041A1 PCT/EP2009/066942 EP2009066942W WO2010079041A1 WO 2010079041 A1 WO2010079041 A1 WO 2010079041A1 EP 2009066942 W EP2009066942 W EP 2009066942W WO 2010079041 A1 WO2010079041 A1 WO 2010079041A1
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hair
weight
acid
preferred
group
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PCT/EP2009/066942
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Petra Westphal
Marlene Battermann
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2010079041A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010079041A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, preferably compositions for the treatment of keratinous fibers containing an extract of certain precious woods and the use of at least one precious wood extract in cosmetic compositions, preferably for the treatment of keratinic fibers, preferably for improving the moisture keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human hair to protect the fibers from oxidizing agents and UV radiation, to protect the fibers from destructuring and to improve the color retention and color intensity of dyed fibers.
  • the oxidizing agent not only achieves the desired cosmetic effect, but also has a negative effect on the stability, the feel and the appearance of the keratin-containing fiber, in particular the human hair. Such damaged hair looks dull and brittle. In extreme cases, it even leads to hair breakage. There is a need to further improve hair care products and to give them further advantageous properties.
  • a care complex should be provided, which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agents.
  • the aim is also that the hair is protected from aggressive oxidizing agents or UV radiation by suitable ingredients.
  • Another disadvantage of strong and frequent sun exposure is that the hair color changes or fades faster. Also, this effect should optimally be avoided or reduced, without the need for the use of other care products.
  • the above-described side effects with the 2-in-1 product should already be reduced during the oxidative hair treatment but also after the oxidative hair treatment, without deteriorating the efficiency of the oxidative cosmetic, in particular with regard to color intensity, color fastness, whitening power or wave action.
  • the oxidative treatment keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human hair with the application of an effective fiber protection from environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected.
  • the invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing in a cosmetically suitable carrier at least one precious wood extract of woods from the group of mahogany, meranti, teak, ebony, balsa, palisander, bangkirai, pock wood, grenadilla, bongossi, abachi, framire, merbau, ovangkol , Ramin, Afzelia, Wenge, Madrona, Merbau, Myrtle, Zingana / Zebrano, Vavona, Elm, Walnut, Plane, Yew, Robinia, Boxwood, Birdseed Maple, Maple Bark, Cherry Tree, Pear Tree.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one precious wood extract of woods from the group of mahogany, meranti, teak, ebony, balsa wood, rosewood, bangkirai, pock wood, grenadilla, bongossi, abachi, framire, merbau, ovangkol, ramin, afzelia, wenge, madrona.
  • Merbau myrtle, zingrane / zebrano, vavona, elm, walnut, sycamore, yew, robinia, boxwood, bird's eye maple, barked maple, cherry tree, pear tree.
  • An extract in the sense of the present application is a substance or substance mixture which has been obtained by extraction and partial or complete evaporation of the extraction solution.
  • the extracts used in the compositions according to the invention can be obtained from the harvest-fresh woods, but also from stored goods. Particularly preferred is the use of extracts of wood residues, which are incurred in the processing of wood in other areas (construction, furniture, etc.). Such wood residues can be, for example, wood chips, sawdust or remnants from the production of boards.
  • compositions containing at least one exotic wood extract from tropical timbers preferably from mahogany, meranti, teak, ebony, rosewood, bangkirai, are preferred according to the invention.
  • the precious wood extracts used according to the invention are obtained from the woods or wood mixtures by extraction, preferably with organic solvents, water or mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvents are ketones (eg acetone), ethers, esters, alcohols or halogenated hydrocarbons.
  • Particularly preferred extractants are water and / or alcohols.
  • the alcohols C 1 to C 6 ) alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Particularly preferred extractants are water, ethanol, 2-propanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, very particularly preferably water, ethanol, 2-propanol and 1, 2-propylene glycol and mixtures thereof, for.
  • 2-propylene glycol / water in the ratio 4 1.
  • the extraction is preferably carried out at a temperature of 25 ° C to 90 0 C.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the precious wood extract contains at least one polar solvent selected from ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3 Butylene glycol, glycerol and water, and mixtures thereof.
  • solubilizers are, for. B. Ethoxylation products of optionally hydrogenated vegetable and animal oils.
  • Preferred solubilizers are ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides of C8-22 fatty acids having from 4 to 50 ethylene oxide units, e.g. Hydrogenated ethoxylated castor oil, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, mink oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol caprylic / capric acid glycerides, polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate, and
  • the dry matter of the extract is dependent on the molecular weight and the solubility of the dispersed ingredients and is usually from 1 to 80% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the extract.
  • the dry matter is preferably from 15 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 20 to 35% by weight. With a molecular weight of the ingredients above 100,000 daltons, a dry matter of 1 to 20 wt .-% may be preferred and a dry matter of 1 to 10 wt .-% may be particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that the dry matter of the precious wood extract is 5-80% by weight, based on the weight of the extract.
  • the extract used according to the invention is preferably present in the cosmetic compositions in amounts of from 0.001 to 15% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 5 % By weight used.
  • Corresponding cosmetic products in which the precious wood extract is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition are preferred.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention show improved care effects on skin and hair.
  • preferred cosmetic according to the invention are characterized in that they are formulated as a shampoo, hair conditioner, hair rinse, hair foam, hair spray, hair gel and / or Haarfärbemitte and additionally at least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers , cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of use, and selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).
  • Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and Ammonium and mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps),
  • Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (II)
  • Y is --CH - COOR 2 wherein X is H or a -CH 2 COOR group, Y is H or -OH is under the condition that Y is H when X is -CH 2 COOR, R, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another denote a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C 6 -C 18 ) Alkyl polysaccharides having from 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C 6 -C 16 ) hydroxyalkylpolyols having from 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals are selected, provided that at least one of the groups R, R 1 or R 2 is one Rest Z is,
  • esters of sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of general formula (III) are examples of esters of sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of general formula (III),
  • R 1 and R 2 are independently a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of ver - ethoxylated (C 6 -C 18 ) -alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C 6 -C 6 ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, provided that at least one of the groups R 1 or R 2 is a radical Z, sul
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R- (O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) X -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12, mixed hydroxysulfonate surfactants according to DE-A-37 25 030,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to C 8 . 22 are fatty alcohols, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which in particularly preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl , Myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or of the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-glucosides sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the
  • Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (- 'or -SO 3 ' " 'group in the molecule.)
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 C -atoms in the alkyl or acyl group as well as the coconut acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat a preferred
  • C 24 - Alkyl or acyl group pe at least one free amino group and contain at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 2 - C 8 - acyl sarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group
  • Polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms in particular glycerol,
  • Polyol fatty (partial) ester as Hydagen ® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ® - types (Cognis), especially of saturated C. 8 3 o-fatty acids, alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,
  • Ci O -alkyl groups essentially of C 2 - - C 4 alkyl groups and consists essentially of C 8 - to C 6 -alkyl or substantially of Ci 2
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • the alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides eg. B. Montanov ® 68
  • fatty alcohols eg. B. Montanov ® 68
  • Sterols e.g. Ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol and mycosterols,
  • Phospholipids e.g. B. lecithins or phosphatidylcholines
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
  • Preferred nonionic surface-active substances have been the alkylpolyglycosides, optionally in admixture with fatty alcohols, alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, alkylene oxide amide products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid.
  • cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
  • the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and triceptylmethylammonium chloride.
  • Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • composition of the invention the addition of fatty alcohol (s) and / or fatty alcohol alkoxylate (s), preferably C 2-22 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C 2-22 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 10 to 30 EO units , particularly preferably C 16 . 18 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C 16 . 18 - fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having from 12 to 20 EO units, preferably in amounts of from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7.5 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 10 to 15% by weight, each based on the weight of the agent included.
  • Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are further characterized in that they additionally contain amphoteric surfactant (s), preferably from the groups of N-alkyl,
  • Alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group
  • N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate,
  • N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate,
  • amphoteric surfactant in amounts of 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 12 wt .-% and in particular from 5 to 10 parts by weight. %, in each case based on the total mean.
  • Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (I)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms
  • surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amidopropylbetaine, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and as Cocoamidopropylbetaine 10
  • compositions according to the invention which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight, and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (I).
  • the hair-treatment compositions according to the invention may be used with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (II)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.
  • surfactants of this type always also contain betaines of the formula (IIa)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M is a cation.
  • surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetate, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetate.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (VII).
  • nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides. Accordingly, hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain alkylpolyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z) x as nonionic surfactants, where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.
  • alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO - (Z) x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.
  • alkyl polyglycosides in which R consists essentially of C 8 2 - to Ci 6 -alkyl groups or consisting essentially of Ci 6 to Ci 8 alkyl groups.
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • the alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain anionic, cationic and optionally also further amphoteric or zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are
  • Amino acids and their derivatives which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% Contain 12 cationic surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or esterquats and / or amidoamines, wherein preferred cationic surfactant (s) is / are selected
  • Alkyltrimethylammoniumchloriden having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or
  • Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or
  • Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride preferably having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or
  • the agents according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.
  • Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. 13
  • the agents according to the invention can also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged one
  • the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5
  • Wt .-% preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular
  • amphoteric polymer (s) From 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).
  • amphoteric polymers are or are not included in the compositions, further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight,
  • 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s).
  • R 1 is -H or -CH 3
  • Monomer units as well as nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • R 1 is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • poly methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride
  • Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ® CR (Ethnichem) in trade.
  • the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of multiply olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, 14
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1 -4 -alkyl esters and C 1 -4 -alkyl methacrylates.
  • nonionic monomers preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1 -4 -alkyl esters and C 1 -4 -alkyl methacrylates.
  • the acrylamide is particularly preferred.
  • These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers.
  • a copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80 are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular under the trade name Cosmedia ® guar and Jaguar® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • Merquat ® 100 Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)
  • Merquat ® 550 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as vinylpyrrolidone quaternized with diethyl sulfate 15
  • Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially available
  • Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552 quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as those under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and
  • Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain. Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are.
  • Cationic protein hydrolysates may also be used as cationic polymers, preferred agents being one or more cationic protein hydrolyzates from the group Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Con
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their
  • Wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s), containing preferred cationic (s) polymer (s) is / are selected from
  • Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) and / or; quaternized cellulose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and / or cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or cationized honey and / or cationic guar derivatives and / or polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and
  • the agents of the invention may contain amphoteric polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers preferably usable amphoteric polymers are composed essentially together
  • R1-CH CR2-CO-Z- (CnH2n) -N (+) R3R4R5 A (-) (Z-I)
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3, R 4 and R 5 independently represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A (-) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
  • R6-CH CR7-COOH (Z-II) 17 in which R6 and R7 are independently hydrogen or
  • Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide,
  • the monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents.
  • the quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.
  • such monomers of formula (Z-I) will be the derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of formula (Z-I) wherein R3, R4 and R5 are methyl groups.
  • the acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of formula (Z-I).
  • Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.
  • amphoteric polymer (s) comprise monomers A) and B), wherein A) and B) are selected from
  • R1-CH CR2-CO-Z- (CnH2n) -N (+) R3R4R5A (-) (ZI) in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3, R 4 and R 5 independently of one another Alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A (-) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
  • R6-CH CR7-COOH (Z-II) in which R6 and R7 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups. 18
  • amphoteric polymers used in the agents according to the invention contain monomers from the group of the acrylamides and / or methacrylamides with alkylammonium groups.
  • Acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or crotonic acid and / or 2-methyl crotonic acid have proven useful as monomers with anionic groups which are additionally present in the polymers.
  • the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids.
  • Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ⁇ Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5 -Hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-c
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.
  • vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors are described below:
  • the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include vitamin B 1 (thiamine) vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B 3 Vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent. 19
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 wt .-% , more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors which preferably belong to the groups A, B, C, E, Panthenol (( ⁇ ) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B 5 ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B 3 , Vitamin B 5 ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B 3 ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B 1 ) and / /
  • Component may therefore contain 0.0001 to 5 wt .-% of at least one biochinone inventive compositions.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-% containing at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones.
  • preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-Ib)
  • compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives.
  • the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones results in that the hairs treated with appropriate agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 21
  • purine 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), wherein the following compounds are preferred: purine , Adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purine thiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine, theophylline.
  • compositions of the invention may vary the nature and amount of the purine derivative.
  • Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0, 05 wt .-% (in each case based on the shampoo) can be used.
  • Agents according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of ingredients a) and b) is from 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably from 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably from 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular from 1: 1 to 1 : 10.
  • caffeine is a particularly preferred purine derivative
  • coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine and 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention characterized in that they are used as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates are selected out
  • Monosaccharides in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L. Fucose and / or L-rhamnose
  • Disaccharides in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight
  • preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0 , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.
  • preferred hair-treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol
  • compositions of the invention may contain, in addition to the wood pulp extract (s) and optional other ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss.
  • hair root stabilizing agents are described below:
  • Propecia (Finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.
  • Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.
  • spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.
  • Additional antidandruff active ingredients for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione
  • climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione are used to purposefully reduce the amount of dandruff causing the dandruff, to restore the normal bacterial count to the normal percentage and to reduce the scaling to the physiological level.
  • laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale react differently to the antidandruff active ingredients. In order to combat all dandruff agents maximum is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.
  • antidandruff active ingredients in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.
  • compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.
  • the agents contain at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable.
  • anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterines) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols. Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic
  • Values of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention. 25
  • the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or part of the sulfonic acid group to be in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt , More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 is commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • This compound which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci 3 -Ci 4 -lsopar
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids.
  • Such compounds are, for example, under the trademark
  • Carbopol ® commercially available.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • Methyl vinyl ether copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers such as for example, under the trade name Luviskol ®
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73 are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy- as for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ®
  • Starch and its derivatives in particular starch, such as Structure XL ® (National
  • Starch a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch
  • the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I).
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4- phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-
  • the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
  • water-insoluble are within the scope of the invention
  • UV filter to understand that at 20 0 C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular not more than
  • Oil components at room temperature to be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% soluble).
  • the use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are those available as commercial products
  • Cinnamic acid compounds trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • compositions of the invention may further comprise a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives
  • Agents are preferably 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).
  • Yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root are preferred.
  • Extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel are particularly preferred.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2
  • Extracting agent or extractant mixture Extracting agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • Penetrants and / or swelling agents are included. These include, for example, to count
  • Glycol and glycol ethers for example, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example
  • Propylene glycol monoethyl ether carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular
  • 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone, preferably a silicone, selected from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • acyloxyalkyl groups g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; I) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
  • linear polysiloxane A) - polyoxyalkylene
  • B block copolymers of the type (AB) n with n>3
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end
  • grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ; or their mixtures.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention preferably comprise the silicone (s) in
  • Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of from 0.2 to 2 mm 2 s -1 at 20 ° C., with silicones having viscosities of from 0.5 to 1 mm 2 s -1 being particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.
  • Such silicones may e.g. through the formula
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, wherein R 1 is a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and the radical 31
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, “b” assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, “a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3, and “c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halogenated hydrocarbon radicals and sulfur-containing radicals; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, am
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) z ⁇ NH wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is - N (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3
  • the molar ratio of R 3 Q b SiO (4. a. b) / 2 units to the R 0 SiO (4. C) / 2 units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -
  • a is a number between O and 3, in particular O;
  • b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m is preferably from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
  • R ' is a monovalent radical selected from O -QN (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R") 2 o -QN (R ") 2 O -QN + (R") 3 A " o - QN + H (R ") 2 A " o -QN + H 2 (R ") A " o -QN (R ”) - CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R ⁇ 2 A " , where each Q is a chemical bond , -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C (CH 3 ) 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C (CHs) 2 -, -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 2 -,
  • R " is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 - CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the C ⁇ o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , - CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)
  • agents according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)
  • These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.
  • agents according to the invention which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III
  • x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.
  • the silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions. Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-IV
  • R 3 Si- [O-SiR 2 ] ⁇ (CH 2 ) n - [O-SiR 2 ] y -O-SiR 3 (Si-IV), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H , -Phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -
  • CH (CH 3 ) Ph the C 1-6 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , x and y are each from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10 preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 34
  • n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.
  • the silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.
  • the NTU value Nephelometrie Turbidity Unit
  • compositions according to the invention have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the hair treated with them. Benefits have been observed especially in hair and scalp treatment.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention increase the elasticity of the hair treated with them and lead to an inner-structural strengthening of the hair fibers, which is e.g. reflected in higher melting temperatures in differential thermal analysis.
  • compositions according to the invention cause an increase in the elasticity and, surprisingly, sebum-regulating effects. The visual impression of "greasy" skin or hair is thus avoided or weakened.
  • Another object of the present invention the use of hair treatment compositions according to the invention for improving at least one of the properties
  • Arlypon F C12-14 fatty alcohol with about 2.5 EO-units (INCI name: Laureth 2) (Cognis)
  • Antil ® 141 Polyoxyethylenpropylenglykoldioleat (ca. 40% active substance content; INCI name: Propylene Glycol, PEG-55 Propylene glycol oleate) (Goldschmidt)
  • Cetiol ® HE Kokosmonglycerid with about 7.3 EO-units (INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) (Cognis) Polymer JR ® 400 quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10) (Amerchol) Gluadin ® WQ Wheat protein hydrolyzate ( about 31-35% solids; INCI name: Aqua (Water), Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben) (Cognis) Hair Conditioner:

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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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Abstract

L'invention porte sur des agents cosmétiques qui contiennent, dans un support cosmétiquement approprié, au moins un extrait de bois précieux provenant de bois du groupe acajou, meranti, teck, ébène, balsa, palissandre, bangkirai, bois de gaiac, bois de grenadille, azobé, abachi, framiré, merbau, ovangkol, ramin, afzelia, wengé, bois de madrona, merbau, myrte, zingana/zebrano, vavona, orme, noyer, platane, if, robinier, buis, érable moucheté, érable rayé, cerisier, poirier, et confèrent à la peau et en particulier aux cheveux des propriétés avantageuses, en particulier des soins en profondeur à longue durée et une brillance de couleur augmentée.
PCT/EP2009/066942 2008-12-18 2009-12-11 Agents cosmétiques comprenant des extraits de bois précieux WO2010079041A1 (fr)

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DE102008062771A DE102008062771A1 (de) 2008-12-18 2008-12-18 Kosmetische Mittel mit Edelholzextrakten

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Cited By (1)

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CN109970821A (zh) * 2019-04-28 2019-07-05 云南汉德生物技术有限公司 一种从红豆杉中提取阿拉伯糖的方法

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DE102011083312A1 (de) * 2011-09-23 2013-03-28 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarbehandlungsmittel mit kationischem Pflegestoff und Silikon(en)
WO2013191666A1 (fr) * 2012-06-22 2013-12-27 Recep Sivrikaya Liquide organique obtenu par séchage par haute fréquence sous vide du bois de sciage
CA2901658A1 (fr) * 2013-03-14 2014-09-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions de savonnette contenant de la pyrithione de zinc et un complexe zinc-oxyde de pyridine

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JPH06128169A (ja) * 1992-10-19 1994-05-10 Lion Corp 抗男性ホルモン剤
JPH0769853A (ja) * 1993-09-02 1995-03-14 Lion Corp 口腔用組成物
JP2001039821A (ja) * 1999-07-28 2001-02-13 Mikimoto Pharmaceut Co Ltd 化粧料、医薬部外品、医薬品、食品

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN109970821A (zh) * 2019-04-28 2019-07-05 云南汉德生物技术有限公司 一种从红豆杉中提取阿拉伯糖的方法
CN109970821B (zh) * 2019-04-28 2022-01-11 云南汉德生物技术有限公司 一种从红豆杉中提取阿拉伯糖的方法

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