WO2010070595A1 - Procédé de fabrication de substances kératiniques et trousse cosmétique pour sa mise en oeuvre - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication de substances kératiniques et trousse cosmétique pour sa mise en oeuvre Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010070595A1
WO2010070595A1 PCT/IB2009/055794 IB2009055794W WO2010070595A1 WO 2010070595 A1 WO2010070595 A1 WO 2010070595A1 IB 2009055794 W IB2009055794 W IB 2009055794W WO 2010070595 A1 WO2010070595 A1 WO 2010070595A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
range
applicator
casting
powder
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2009/055794
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Xavier Blin
Sophie Beaumard
Pascal Arnaud
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2010070595A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010070595A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D33/00—Containers or accessories specially adapted for handling powdery toiletry or cosmetic substances
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/20—Additional enhancing means
    • A45D2200/207—Vibration, e.g. ultrasound
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetics, in particular for makeup and/or care purposes, and packaged in solid form.
  • compositions are said to be in “solid” form when it presents hardness such that it does not flow under its own weight, in contrast with compositions that are said to be “fluid".
  • a composition may in particular be in the form of a pressed powder or in the form of a casting, obtained respectively by pressing or by casting while hot into a mold and cooling down.
  • compositions generally comprise firstly a powder phase comprising in particular pigments and fillers, and secondly an oily phase acting as a binder, comprising fats, for conferring on the finished product: softness; the property of being emollient; and encouraging adhesion on the skin.
  • Certain makeup compositions such as foundations, eye shadows, or face powder are in the form of a pressed powder, generally comprising both an oily phase, referred to as a binder, and a powder phase, comprising in particular pigments and/or fillers.
  • pressed powders have the drawback of sometimes presenting poor aptitude for being taken, being difficult to disperse with a finger or using a sponge, and the user does not manage to take a sufficient quantity of composition to be able to apply makeup in satisfactory manner.
  • This difficulty of dispersing the composition often leads to the user rubbing hard against the surface of the pressed powder in order to be able to take a larger quantity of the composition, however rubbing harder merely serves to harden the surface of the composition by making it smooth: the composition then becomes even more difficult to disperse.
  • its softness and spreading properties are difficult for the user to perceive while applying the composition to the skin.
  • compositions in the form of castings e.g. compositions that are cast while hot, which compositions need to be capable of dispersing while also being mechanically strong.
  • the invention seeks to facilitate the fabrication and the use, in particular the taking and/or application by a user, of solid cosmetics, in particular in the form of pressed powder or in the form of castings, and more preferably skin makeup in the form of a hot-cast foundation .
  • a solid cosmetic composition e.g. in the form of a pressed powder or of a casting
  • a vibration source enabling one of the applicator and the composition to be caused to vibrate, at least while the composition is being taken by the applicator.
  • the composition harder, thereby giving it greater strength to withstand being dropped if it is in the form of a pressed powder or greater ability to withstand pressure and high temperatures if it is in the form of a casting, but without that making the composition more difficult to take and/or to apply.
  • Vibrating applicators that are suitable for the invention are already known, e.g. from publications FR 2 882 506 or EP 1 842 520.
  • Application FR 2 882 506 gives an example in which, while the composition is being taken, the applicator element is subjected to vibration from the vibration source, thereby enabling a more uniform load of composition to be obtained on the applicator element.
  • the composition is a stick of lipstick that is subjected to vibration during application.
  • Application FR 2 904 923 describes a vibration source configured for mounting on a user's finger. That application provides the possibility of loading an applicator or the finger with composition, in particular when the composition is in the form of a pressed powder, by causing the applicator or the finger in contact with the powder to vibrate. It is possible to cause the source vibration to operate from the moment the composition is taken, e.g. for the purpose of improving the composition, and in particular for making it easier to disperse the composition when it is in the form of a pressed powder.
  • the composition of the invention may be a makeup composition and/or a skin care product, and it may constitute a cheek rouge, an eye shadow, a face powder, a foundation, an anti-wrinkle care product, body makeup, a face or body care product, or a sunscreen. More particularly, but not exclusively, the invention relates to a foundation and in particular a foundation that has been cast.
  • exemplary embodiments of the invention provide a method of applying makeup and/or care product to keratinous materials, wherein a vibrating applicator is used to take a certain quantity of a solid composition in the form of a pressed powder or a casting prior to application by subjecting at least one of an application surface of the applicator and the composition to vibration, and wherein the composition as taken in this way is applied on the keratinous material.
  • the solid composition in the form of a pressed powder presents hardness greater than or equal to 15 on the Shore scale
  • the solid composition in the form of a casting has hardness greater than or equal to 100 grams (g) , in particular hardness lying in the range 100 g to 1000 g.
  • the applicator is also subjected to vibration while the composition is being applied to the keratinous material.
  • the application surface and/or the composition is subjected to vibration, which vibration comes from a vibration source.
  • a suitable vibration source produces vibration that can be obtained in various ways, in particular mechanically, electronically, or electromechanicalIy .
  • the cosmetic kit shown in Figure 1 and described below includes a vibration source that enables vibration to be produced when taking and applying composition, the vibration being produced on an application surface that is to come into contact with the keratinous material while it is in use.
  • the frequency of the vibration may lie in the range 5 hertz (Hz) to 10 kilohertz (kHz) , better lying in the range 100 Hz to 5000 Hz.
  • the vibration frequency lies in the range 100 Hz to 1000 Hz, and in particular in the range 100 Hz to 300 Hz.
  • the vibration source may comprise a vibrator made up of a motor and a flyweight that is rotated by the motor and that has its center of gravity located eccentrically relative to the axis of rotation.
  • the motor may be powered electrically by an energy source such as, for example a cylindrical battery electrically connected to the motor via a switch.
  • the vibration source may include a vibrator other than an electric motor rotating a flyweight.
  • the vibration source may in particular comprise any electromechanical, piezoelectric, pneumatic, hydraulic, mechanical, electronic, or electromechanical system capable of producing vibration.
  • the vibration source may include vibration control means other than a simple on/off switch, and in particular it may include mechanical or electronic control means enabling the amplitude and/or the frequency of the vibration to be adjusted.
  • the control means may include a potentiometer or a rotary or linear switch enabling at least two speeds of rotation of the electric motor to be selected, when the vibrator includes such a motor.
  • the vibration source may also include more than one vibrator, and for example two vibrators arranged to produce oscillations in different directions.
  • the applicator may also, for example, include a selector for selecting the vibrator (s) that is/are to be put into operation.
  • the vibration source may be oriented by the user so as to cause the application element defining the vibrating application surface to vibrate with vibration of a desired orientation.
  • the vibration source may include an energy source other than a battery, and in particular it may include one or more rechargeable batteries or capacitors.
  • the vibration source may be arranged in such a manner as to be suitable for being recharged with electricity when it is placed on a base. Where appropriate, the vibration source may be mains powered, optionally via a transformer .
  • the vibration source may be mounted in multiple ways in a corresponding housing of the applicator or the packaging and dispenser device, and the way the vibration source is mounted may be designed in such a manner as to encourage vibration to be transferred towards the application surface or towards the grip surface, for example .
  • the vibration source is placed in the applicator with resilient damper means being interposed between the housing of the applicator and the vibration source.
  • the damper means may for example comprise an elastomer gasket.
  • the vibration source may be carried on a user's finger, as described in application FR 2 904 923.
  • the kit 1 shown in Figure 1 comprises a container 2 containing the solid composition P of the invention, and an applicator 3 capable of being housed inside the container when it is closed by a closure cap 4.
  • the applicator 3 has a grip portion 6 housing the vibration source 8 that includes an energy source 7 and an on/off switch 9.
  • the vibration source 8 comprises an electric motor rotating a flyweight, however the vibration source could be made in any other way.
  • the application surface 15 of the applicator 3 is defined, for example, by a skin 16 that may cover foam 17, as shown.
  • the motor and the flyweight are contained in a housing 18 of the applicator.
  • the container 2 may optionally include a cup that contains the composition P.
  • the cup may be secured in the container between the first and last uses, or in a variant it need not be secured, as shown in Figure 2 and as described in patent application WO 2006/090343, incorporated herein by reference.
  • the composition P is contained in a cup 193 that is housed in a container 190 onto which the applicator 181 can be fastened.
  • the applicator has an applicator element 182 that engages inside the container when the applicator is in place thereon.
  • the applicator example comprises a foam.
  • the applicator element 182 comes into contact with the composition P present in the cup 193, the cup being pressed against the applicator element 182 by a resilient return member, e.g. a spring 191 that is interposed between the cup 193 and the bottom end of the container 190.
  • a resilient return member e.g. a spring 191 that is interposed between the cup 193 and the bottom end of the container 190.
  • the vibration source forms part of a removable unit that enables it to be reused with another container.
  • the applicator may include any applicator element, e.g. a brush, a paint brush, a flocked tip, a sintered piece, or a wipe.
  • any applicator element e.g. a brush, a paint brush, a flocked tip, a sintered piece, or a wipe.
  • a vibration source of the kind described in application FR 2 904 923 is mounted on a user's finger.
  • the application surface may be defined by the end of the finger that comes into contact with the composition that is to be taken and applied, or in a variant by an applicator pad that is fastened on the finger.
  • the composition is in solid form.
  • solid is used to mean that the composition presents hardness such that it does not flow under its own weight, as contrasted with compositions that are said to be fluid.
  • Such a composition may in particular be in the form of a pressed powder or in the form of a casting, obtained respectively by pressing or by hot-casting into a mold and cooling.
  • the composition may present hardness greater than or equal to 15 on the Shore scale if it is in the form of a pressed powder.
  • the composition preferably presents hardness greater than or equal to 100 g, in particular hardness lying in the range 100 g to 1000 g, preferably lying in the range 200 g to 900 g, and still better, lying in the range 400 g to 800 g.
  • Protocol for measuring the hardness of a casting Hardness measurements are used by means of a TA-XT2 texture analyzer as sold by the supplier Rheo.
  • Hardness is considered in terms of the compression force (in grams) as measured when causing a stainless steel cylinder having a diameter of 3 millimeters (mm) to penetrate to a depth of 2 mm and at a speed of
  • Protocol for measuring the hardness of a pressed powder With pressed powders, hardness is measured on the composition, generally in a cup, with the help of a Zwick type hardness meter.
  • Measurement consists in manually lowering a lever to cause a moving body that is connected to a force measurement system to move downwards. When the entire surface of the moving body is in contact with the sample, the hardness value is measured on a dial with a pointer.
  • the measurement is expressed on the Shore scale.
  • the moving body is a metal needle having a diameter of 1 mm. Constitution
  • the composition is in the form of a pressed powder or of a casting.
  • the casting may be in anhydrous form or in the form of a solid emulsion.
  • the solid emulsion does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature, in contrast with a conventional emulsion, and it is characterized in particular by the presence of one or more waxes in its liquid oily phase.
  • the term "pressed powder" designates a mass of composition presenting cohesion that is associated at least in part with a pressing operation performed during fabrication .
  • the term "casting" is used to designate a mass of composition presenting cohesion that is provided by at least one of its ingredients solidifying during preparation.
  • the composition may be cast while hot and then solidify as a result of cooling.
  • the composition is in the form of a casting.
  • composition of the invention is solid, i.e., at ambient temperature (20 0 C), it does not flow under its own weight in a manner that is visible to the eye.
  • the cosmetic composition may comprise a powder phase, a liquid oily phase, and possibly also at least one wax, in particular in compositions that are in the form of a casting, and also an aqueous phase, in particular in castings in the form of a solid emulsion.
  • the powder phase comprises at least one filler and optionally at least one pigment.
  • the powder phase comprises at least one filler, and advantageously also at least one pigment, in particular for makeup compositions of the invention.
  • fillers is used to mean particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthesized, and insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is fabricated.
  • the fillers may be inorganic or organic, of any form, flakes, spherical, or oblong, and regardless of their crystallographic form (e.g. sheets, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.) .
  • the filler (s) may be present in the composition with a total filler content lying in the range 0.01% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 1% to 95% by weight, and better in the range 3% to 94% by weight.
  • the total filler content may lie in the range 0.01% to 96% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably in the range 1% to 85% by weight, and better in the range 1% to 80% by weight .
  • the total filler content may lie in particular in the range 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably in the range 0.1% to 25% by weight, and better in the range 1% to 15% by weight.
  • Pigments The term “pigments” is used to designate particles of any form, white or colored, inorganic or organic, that are insoluble in the physiological medium, and that are intended to color the composition.
  • the pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic.
  • inorganic pigments mention may be made of: titanium dioxide, possibly with surface treatments; oxides of zirconium or cerium; and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red) , or chromium; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium hydrate; and ferric blue; and metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.
  • organic pigments mention may be made of: carbon black; D & C type pigments; and lacquers, in particular lacquers based on cochenille carmine, on barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum.
  • the pigments may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 0.5% to 65% by weight, and better lying in the range 1% to 60% by weight.
  • the pigment content will generally lie in the range 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably in the range 5% to 30% by weight, and in particular 10% to 25% by weight.
  • the composition of the invention may include an additional coloring material in powder form, other than the above-described pigments, and possibly selected in particular from nacres, and other interference pigments, flakes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nacres may be selected from white nacres such as titanium-covered mica, or bismuth oxychloride, or from colored nacres such as titanium mica covered with iron oxides, titanium mica covered in particular with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type, and nacres based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the nacre may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 0.1% to 40% by weight, and better lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight.
  • Binder The composition of the invention includes at least one liquid and/or solid oily phase, generally referred to as a binder.
  • composition of the invention may include least one liquid oily phase, in particular at least one oil as mentioned below.
  • the liquid oily phase comprises an oil selected from volatile and nonvolatile oils of hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated type.
  • oil is used to designate any oily body in liquid form at ambient temperature (20°C-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the binder may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 1% to 80% by weight, and better lying in the range 2% to 60% by weight.
  • the binder content will generally lie in the range 0.1% to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 0.1% to 10% by weight, and better lying in the range 0.1% to 8% by weight.
  • the binder content in particular the oil content, may lie in the range 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably lying in the range 20% to 60% by weight, and in particular 30% to 50% by weight.
  • Oil may be present in the binder at a content lying in the range 1% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably lying in the range 10% to 98% by weight, and better lying in the range 30% to 95% by weight.
  • the oil (s) may in particular be selected from hydrocarbon, silicone, or fluorinated oils.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • They may be animal, vegetal, mineral, or synthetic in origin.
  • volatile oil designates an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that, on contact with the skin, is suitable for evaporating in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a vapor pressure lying in the range 0.13 pascals (Pa) to 40,000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 millimeters of mercury (mmHg) to 300 mmHg) , and preferably in the range 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 mmHg to 100 mmHg), and better in the range 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 mmHg to 10 mmHg) .
  • non-volatile oil designates an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
  • sicone oil designates an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
  • fluorinated oil designates an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon oil designates an oil mainly comprising atoms of hydrogen and carbon.
  • the oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and/or phosphorous, e.g. in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • Volatile oils may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the commercial names Isopars® or Permethyls®.
  • hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the commercial names Isopars® or Permethyls®.
  • volatile oils such as, for example: volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, and in particular those having viscosity of ⁇ 8 centistokes (cSt) (8xlO ⁇ 6 square meters per second (m 2 /s) ) , and in particular having 2 to 10 atoms of silicon, better 2 to 7 atoms of silicon, these silicone oils optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils and in particular those having viscosity of ⁇ 8 centistokes (cSt) (8xlO ⁇ 6 square meters per second (m 2 /s) ) , and in particular having 2 to 10 atoms of silicon, better 2 to 7 atoms of silicon, these silicone oils optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • cSt centistokes
  • volatile silicone oils usable in the invention mention may be made in particular of: dimethicones having viscosity of 5 cSt to 6 cSt; octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane; decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane; dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane; heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane; heptamethyloctyl trisloxane; heptamethyl disiloxane; octamethyl trisiloxane; decamethyl tetrasiloxane; dodecamethyl pentasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcylopentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile oil may be present at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 1% to 30% by weight, and better lying in the range 5% to 25% by weight.
  • the non-volatile oils may in particular be selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated, and/or silicone oils.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon oil mention may be made in particular of:
  • hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
  • hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as phytostearyl esters
  • phytostearyl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203)
  • triglycerides constituted by esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, in particular, in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths lying in the range C 4 to C36, and, in particular, Cis to C36, possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
  • said oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea butter, oils of alfalfa, of poppy, of Hokkaido squash, of millet, of barley, of quinoa, of rye, of candlenut, of passion flower, of
  • R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R 2 ⁇ 10.
  • the esters may in particular be selected from alcohol and fatty acid esters, e.g.
  • cetostearyl octanoate isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl, stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, alcohols or polyalcohols of octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzo
  • esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate;
  • esters of dimeric diols and diacid dimers such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ® , sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in US patent application No. 2004- 175338;
  • copolymers of dimeric diols and diacid dimers and their esters such as copolymers of dilinoleyl diol dimer and dilinoleic dimer and their esters, such as, for example, Plandool-G;
  • copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid and butanediol copolymer;
  • fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2- octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
  • C12-C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the trade name Cetiol CC ® , by Cognis;
  • oil of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass going from 400 grams per mole (g/mol) to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular, about 650 g/mol to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular, about 750 g/mol to about 7500 g/mol, and more particularly, lying in the range about 1000 g/mol to about 5000 g/mol.
  • oils selected from:
  • esters of linear fatty acids having a total number of carbon atoms lying in the range 35 to 70;
  • fluorinated oils possibly partially hydrocarbon or silicone oils, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones such as those described in document EP-A-847752; • silicone oils such as non-volatile, linear, or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ; polydimethylsiloxanes including, pendant and/or terminal alkyl, alcoxy, or phenyl group, on the silicone chain, said groups each containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as the phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates; and • mixtures thereof.
  • silicone oils such as non-volatile, linear, or cyclic polydimethylsilox
  • the non-volatile oil may be present at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 1% to 30% by weight, and better lying in the range 5% to 25% by weight.
  • a composition of the invention may include at least one liquid oily phase structuring agent selected from a wax, a pasty compound, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition in the form of a casting of the invention includes at least one wax.
  • the term "wax” designates a lipophilic oily compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa), that presents a reversible solid/liquid change of state, in particular having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 0 C, in particular greater than or equal to 55°C, and possibly being as high as 250 0 C, in particular up to 230 0 C, and better up to 120°C.
  • Wax may be present in the composition of the invention at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the oily phase, and preferably in the range 1% to 20%.
  • melting point values correspond to the melting peaks as measured with the help of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), e.g. the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the supplier Metier, with temperature rising at a rate of 5°C or 10 0 C per minute.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the wax may be a wax as generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields.
  • the wax may be a hydrocarbon, a silicone, and/or a fluorinated wax, optionally including ester or hydroxyl functions.
  • the wax may likewise be of natural or of synthetic origin.
  • waxes of animal origin such as beeswax
  • waxes of vegetable origin such as carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax
  • waxes of animal origin such as beeswax
  • waxes of vegetable origin such as carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax
  • inorganic waxes e.g. paraffin, or microcristalline waxes, or ozokerites
  • hydrogenated oils that are concrete / solid at 25°C such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and fatty esters that are solid at 25°C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen;
  • the wax present in the composition of the invention may be completely or partially in the form of a powder, in particular a micronized powder, so as to make it easier to use while preparing the cosmetic composition.
  • composition of the invention may include substituted polysiloxanes, preferably having a low melting point, e.g. substituted linear polysiloxanes essentially constituted (ignoring end groups) by motifs of formulae II and III, in respective molar proportions of m and n:
  • each R' represents independently a (linear or branched) possibly unsaturated alkyl, having 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, or an -X-R" group, where each X independently represents:
  • a and b represent independently numbers that may vary over the range 0 to 6; and each R" represents independently a possibly unsaturated alkyl group having 6 to 30 atoms of carbon;
  • • m is a number that may lie in the range 0 to 400, and in particular in the range 0 to 100; and • n is a number that may lie in the range 1 to 200, and in particular in the range 1 to 100; with the sum (m+n) being less than 400, and in particular being less than or equal to 100.
  • silicone waxes are known or suitable for being prepared using known methods.
  • commercial silicone waxes of this type mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801, or 9810 (Goldschmidt) ; KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu) ; or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric) .
  • Suitable silicone waxes may also be selected from compounds having the following formula (IV) :
  • R is defined as above; • R 1 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group having the following formula:
  • R 2 represents an alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group having the following formula:
  • • a and b represent numbers lying in the range 0 to 6; • R" being an alkyl having 6 to 30 carbon atoms; and
  • silicone waxes of formula (IV) that are known compounds or that are suitable for being prepared using known methods, mention may be made in particular of the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434, and 2440 (Goldschmidt) ; or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (Wacker) .
  • the wax may be present in the composition in particular in the form of a casting of the invention at a content lying in the range 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably lying in the range 2% to 10% by weight, and better lying in the range 2% to 5% by weight.
  • the binder may include a silicone resin.
  • Silicone resins are products of hydrolyzing and polycondensing mixtures of siloxanes having the formulae (R) 3 SiOCH 3 and Si (OCH 3 ) 4 , where R represents an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms .
  • These silicone resins are known and are suitable for being prepared using known methods.
  • commercial silicone resins that are suitable for use, mention may be made for example of those sold under the names DC 593 (Dow Corning) or SS 4230 (General Electric) .
  • the silicone resin may be present at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the silicone binder.
  • a composition of the invention may also include at least one pasty compound.
  • Such a compound may advantageously be selected from lanolin and derivatives; optionally polymeric silicone compounds; optionally polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinylic polymers, in particular olefin homopolymers; olefin copolymers; hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers; linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylic esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, in particular, C2-C50 fatty acids or alcohol esters; and mixtures thereof.
  • esters mention may be made in particular of:
  • esters of a glycerol oligomer in particular, diglycerol esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerol have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12- hydroxystearic acid, in particular, like those sold under the trade name Softisan 649 by Sasol, or such as bis diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 ; arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, such as hydrogenated coco-glycerides; non cross- linked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 5 O dicarboxylic acid or carboxylic polyacid
  • Risocast DA-H ® and Risocast DA-L ® products and mixtures thereof .
  • the structuring agent (s) may be present in a composition of the invention at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight of agent relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably in the range 0.5% to 20% by weight.
  • composition of the invention may also include one or more thickening or gelling agents.
  • a composition in the form of a casting of the solid emulsion type of the invention may include a hydrophilic thickening or gelling agent, i.e. an agent that is soluble or dispersible in water.
  • hydrophilic gelling agents mention may be made in particular of: thickening polymers that are hydrosoluble or hydrodispersible .
  • said polymers may be selected from: optionally modified carboxyvinylic polymers, such as the products sold under the trade name Carbopol (CTFA [Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association] name: carbomer) by Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the trade name Lubrajel and Norgel by Guardian or under the trade name Hispagel by Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, possibly cross-linked and/or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ; anionic acrylamide and AMPS cross-linked copolymers, in the
  • Polysorbate 80 by Seppic; polysaccharidic biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum, acacia gum, scleroglucanes, derivatives of chitin and chitosan, carageenans, gellan gums, alginates, celluloses such as microcristalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and mixtures thereof.
  • polysaccharidic biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum, acacia gum, scleroglucanes, derivatives of chitin and chitosan, carageenans, gellan gums, alginates, celluloses such as microcristalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions of the invention in particular castings, it is also possible to use a lipophilic thickening or gelling agent, of inorganic or organic type.
  • modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox)
  • modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with C 10 to C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, e.g. hectorite modified with di- stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, such as for example that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the supplier Elementis, or that sold under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by the supplier Rheox, or that sold under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the supplier Elementis.
  • the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents may be: fully or partially cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the trade names
  • lipophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may also be made of: dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the supplier Chiba Flour; hydrogenated vegetable oils such as hydrogenated castor oil; fatty alcohols, in particular C 8 to C 26 alcohols, and better C 12 to C 22 alcohols, such as for example mysrityl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol.
  • dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitates, in particular those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the supplier Chiba Flour
  • hydrogenated vegetable oils such as hydrogenated castor oil
  • fatty alcohols in particular C 8 to C 26 alcohols, and better C 12 to C 22 alcohols, such as for example mysrityl alcohol
  • a composition of the invention may include thickening agents at a content of active material lying in the range 0.01% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 0.1% to 20% by weight, and better 0.3% to 15% by weight.
  • compositions of the invention may also include at least one film-forming polymer, in particular for compositions of the invention that are in the form of a casting.
  • polymer is used herein to designate a compound having at least two repetition motifs, and preferably at least three repetition motifs.
  • film-forming is used herein of a polymer to designate a polymer that is suitable on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent for forming a film that is macroscopically continuous on a medium, in particular on keratinous materials.
  • the polymer may be present in the composition at a content lying in the range 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the range 0.3% to 25% by weight, more preferably in the range 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably in the range 1% to 30% by weight, and still more preferably in the range 1% to 15% by weight.
  • the film-forming organic polymer is at least one polymer selected from the group comprising:
  • composition includes an aqueous phase.
  • film-forming polymers suitable for use in the composition of the present invention mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of the radical type or of the polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • film-forming polymer mention may be made in particular of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, silicone polymers, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, polyamide polymers and copolymers, and polyisoprenes . More particularly, it may comprise polyurethane and/or polyamides.
  • composition of the invention in particular when present in the form of a casting of a solid emulsion, may include an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water.
  • Water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water, or La Roche Posay water, and/or thermal water.
  • the aqueous phase may also include organic solvents that are miscible in water (at ambient temperature 20 0 C- 25°C) such as for example monoalcohols having 2 to 6 atoms of carbon such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having in particular 2 to 20 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 10 atoms of carbon, and more preferably 2 to 6 atoms of carbon, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 atoms of carbon) such as mono-, di-, or tri-propylene glycol alkyl (C 1 -C
  • the aqueous phase may also include stabilizing agents, e.g. sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, and magnesium sulfate.
  • stabilizing agents e.g. sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride, and magnesium sulfate.
  • the aqueous phase may also include any hydrosoluble or hydrodispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickening agents, wetting agents, and mixtures thereof .
  • a composition of the invention in the form of a casting of the solid emulsion type may have an aqueous phase of content lying in the range 25% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in the range 25% to 45% by weight, and better in the range 25% to 35% by weight.
  • composition may include other ingredients
  • additives of the kind usually used in cosmetics such as preserving agents, cosmetic active agents, hydrating agents, hydrosoluble or liposoluble coloring agents, UV filters, thickening agents, water, wetting agents, fragrances.
  • liposoluble coloring agents may be Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soya bean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinolene yellow.
  • the hydrosoluble coloring agents may be beetroot juice and caramel .
  • composition of the invention may be a composition that is anhydrous, i.e. a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or indeed less than 0.5% of water, and in particular having no water, with water not being added during preparation of the composition but corresponding to residual water contributed by the ingredients that are mixed together.
  • composition in the form of a pressed powder may be prepared by mixing ingredients in powder phase and then adding the oily phase while stirring, with the mixture then being ground, screened, and then poured into a cup and pressed.
  • the ground and screened mixture of the powder phase and the oily phase is pressed in a press, in particular by applying pressure lying in the range 0.5 megapascals (MPa) to 20 MPa, and preferably lying in the range 3 MPa to 15 MPa.
  • the composition as obtained in this way is in the form of pressed powder.
  • composition in the form of a casting may be prepared by hot mixing the ingredients of the powder phase, the oily phase, and where appropriate the aqueous phase for castings of the solid emulsion type, and then allowing the mixture to cool down in a mold.
  • the composition was prepared by mixing together all of the powders and then adding the binder (oils) thereto, the mixture then being ground and screened so as to obtain a uniform mixture. 9.5 g of the mixture was placed in a cup and then pressed under a pressure of 10 MPa (100 bar) .
  • Hardness was measured on the composition in the cup, using a Zwick type hardness meter.
  • the moving body was a metal needle having a diameter of 1 mm.
  • the hardness of the pressed powder was 19 on the Shore scale.
  • phase A The ingredients of phase A were weighed into a double-walled pot using a flow of oil heated to 95°C- 100 0 C.
  • phase A After phase A had been made uniform, the pigments were added and dispersed in the medium, followed by the talc.
  • Hardness was measured using a TA-XT2 texture analyzer sold by the supplier Rheo, acting on the cast foundation composition.
  • Hardness was measured as a compression force (in grams) measured while causing a stainless steel cylinder having a diameter of 3 mm to penetrate at 20 0 C to a depth of 2 mm and at a speed of 1 mm/s.
  • the hardness of the cast foundation was 750 g.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une trousse cosmétique comprenant : • une composition cosmétique solide sous la forme d'une poudre compacte présentant une dureté supérieure ou égale à 15 sur l'échelle Shore, ou sous la forme d'un produit moulé de dureté supérieure ou égale à 100 g ; et • un applicateur permettant la prise de la composition par mise en contact d'une surface d'application de l'applicateur avec la composition, une source de vibrations permettant la vibration de l'applicateur ou de la composition, au moins pendant la prise de la composition par l'applicateur.
PCT/IB2009/055794 2008-12-18 2009-12-16 Procédé de fabrication de substances kératiniques et trousse cosmétique pour sa mise en oeuvre WO2010070595A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR08/58769 2008-12-18
FR0858769A FR2940048B1 (fr) 2008-12-18 2008-12-18 Procede de maquillage des matieres keratiniques et ensemble cosmetique pour la mise en oeuvre d'un tel procede.
US19392309P 2009-01-08 2009-01-08
US61/193,923 2009-01-08

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Cited By (2)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2012004896A1 (fr) * 2010-07-05 2012-01-12 L'oreal Composition cosmétique pulvérulente
GB2537648A (en) * 2015-04-22 2016-10-26 Cosmetic Warriors Ltd Composition

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0847752A1 (fr) 1996-11-26 1998-06-17 L'oreal Composition topique sans transfert comprenant un composé fluorosiliconé
FR2773073A1 (fr) * 1997-12-30 1999-07-02 Rhodia Chimie Sa Utilisation de silicones a fonctions esters comme agents anti-transfert dans les compositions cosmetiques
US6132739A (en) * 1998-09-01 2000-10-17 Amway Corporation Makeup compositions and methods of making same
EP1433460A1 (fr) * 2002-12-24 2004-06-30 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de type fond de teint destinée au maquillage des peaux foncées
US20040175338A1 (en) 2003-03-06 2004-09-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing an ester and a pasty compound
WO2006090343A1 (fr) 2005-02-25 2006-08-31 L'oreal Procede d'application de maquillage en moyen d'un applicateur vibrant
EP1842520A1 (fr) 2006-04-06 2007-10-10 L'Oréal Dispositif vibrant de traitement cosmétique ou de soin esthétique et appareil de stockage ou d'application d'un produit cosmétique ou de soin pourvu d'un tel dispositif
FR2904923A1 (fr) 2006-08-21 2008-02-22 Oreal Dispositif vibrant et procede de maquillage utilisant un tel dispositif
US20080081026A1 (en) * 2006-09-28 2008-04-03 The Procter & Gamble Company Cosmetic product
US20080279899A1 (en) * 2006-07-18 2008-11-13 Nathalie Geffroy Cosmetic composition in powdered form
FR2916631A1 (fr) * 2007-06-01 2008-12-05 Oreal Composition cosmetique sous forme de poudre compacte.

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0847752A1 (fr) 1996-11-26 1998-06-17 L'oreal Composition topique sans transfert comprenant un composé fluorosiliconé
FR2773073A1 (fr) * 1997-12-30 1999-07-02 Rhodia Chimie Sa Utilisation de silicones a fonctions esters comme agents anti-transfert dans les compositions cosmetiques
US6132739A (en) * 1998-09-01 2000-10-17 Amway Corporation Makeup compositions and methods of making same
EP1433460A1 (fr) * 2002-12-24 2004-06-30 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de type fond de teint destinée au maquillage des peaux foncées
US20040175338A1 (en) 2003-03-06 2004-09-09 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing an ester and a pasty compound
WO2006090343A1 (fr) 2005-02-25 2006-08-31 L'oreal Procede d'application de maquillage en moyen d'un applicateur vibrant
FR2882506A1 (fr) 2005-02-25 2006-09-01 Oreal Procede de maquillage au moyen d'un applicateur vibrant
EP1842520A1 (fr) 2006-04-06 2007-10-10 L'Oréal Dispositif vibrant de traitement cosmétique ou de soin esthétique et appareil de stockage ou d'application d'un produit cosmétique ou de soin pourvu d'un tel dispositif
US20080279899A1 (en) * 2006-07-18 2008-11-13 Nathalie Geffroy Cosmetic composition in powdered form
FR2904923A1 (fr) 2006-08-21 2008-02-22 Oreal Dispositif vibrant et procede de maquillage utilisant un tel dispositif
US20080081026A1 (en) * 2006-09-28 2008-04-03 The Procter & Gamble Company Cosmetic product
FR2916631A1 (fr) * 2007-06-01 2008-12-05 Oreal Composition cosmetique sous forme de poudre compacte.

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2012004896A1 (fr) * 2010-07-05 2012-01-12 L'oreal Composition cosmétique pulvérulente
GB2537648A (en) * 2015-04-22 2016-10-26 Cosmetic Warriors Ltd Composition
US10525000B2 (en) 2015-04-22 2020-01-07 Cosmetic Warriors Limited Composition
GB2537648B (en) * 2015-04-22 2020-01-08 Cosmetic Warriors Ltd Composition

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