WO2010060730A1 - Procédé de coloration des cheveux comprenant un post-traitement - Google Patents

Procédé de coloration des cheveux comprenant un post-traitement Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010060730A1
WO2010060730A1 PCT/EP2009/064377 EP2009064377W WO2010060730A1 WO 2010060730 A1 WO2010060730 A1 WO 2010060730A1 EP 2009064377 W EP2009064377 W EP 2009064377W WO 2010060730 A1 WO2010060730 A1 WO 2010060730A1
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Prior art keywords
amino
fiber
agent
active ingredient
dyeing
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PCT/EP2009/064377
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Anja Reichert
Christa Rohland
Astrid Kleen
Christa Hartwich
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Priority to EP09751866A priority Critical patent/EP2352483A1/fr
Publication of WO2010060730A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010060730A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606—Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a process for fiber-sparing dyeing of keratin-containing fibers, which is characterized by a two-stage application, wherein in a first step, a dyeing preparation containing a fiber structure-improving agent is applied to the hair, is rinsed out of the hair after a certain exposure time and in a second step, which adjoins the first stage of the process in a timely manner, an aftertreatment agent is applied which contains at least one biochinone active ingredient. Due to the specific combination of active ingredients in the dyeing preparation and after-treatment agent, an unexpected fiber structure improvement is achieved. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a packaging unit which contains a hair dyeing preparation and an aftertreatment agent containing a biochinone active ingredient. The use of the packaging unit makes it possible to achieve an excellent fiber structure improvement, in particular with regard to the fiber thickness.
  • Changing the shape and color of the hair is an important area of modern cosmetics. This allows the hair's appearance to be adapted to current fashion trends as well as to the individual wishes of the individual.
  • the consumer accesses to color-changing agents. In addition to the desired dyeing power, these agents should cause the least possible damage to the hair and protect the fiber structure.
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and
  • the developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components, the actual dyes.
  • the oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting dyeing results.
  • For naturally acting dyeings usually a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must be used; In many cases, direct dyes are still used for shading.
  • For temporary dyeings usually dyeing or tinting agents are used, which contain as coloring component so-called substantive dyes (direct drawers). These are dye molecules that attach directly to the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint.
  • a first class of oxo dye precursors are compounds having at least one reactive carbonyl group.
  • a second class of oxo dye precursors form C, H-acidic compounds and compounds having a primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group, preferably aromatic compounds.
  • the resulting dyeings have partially color fastness on the keratin-containing fiber, which are comparable to those of the oxidation dyeing, but without relying on oxidizing agent for dye formation.
  • the dyes coloring the substrate are usually decolorized oxidatively using appropriate oxidizing agents, for example hydrogen peroxide.
  • oxidative hair dyes are disadvantageous to the user despite their advantageous dyeing properties.
  • the use of the oxidizing agent for coloration or development of the actual coloration leads to damage in the hair structure and on the hair surface. The hair becomes brittle, its elasticity decreases and its fiber strength decreases.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to lower the mentioned disadvantages of hair dyeing processes.
  • the fiber structure should be spared as possible, so that their Elasticity is as little as possible affected by the color change agent, and that the fibers have the least possible deterioration of the fiber thickness.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a process for changing the color of keratinic fibers, wherein a dyeing preparation is applied to the fibers in a first step, is left on the fibers for a contact time T1 and subsequently washed out, and in a second step a post-treatment agent is applied to the keratinic fibers, is left on the fibers for a contact time T2 and is subsequently washed out, characterized in that a) the dyeing preparation in a cosmetic carrier contains at least one color-modifying component and additionally at least one fiber-structure-improving agent, b) the period a maximum of 60 minutes between completion of the first process step and beginning of the second process step, and c) the aftertreatment agent in a cosmetic carrier contains at least one active ingredient selected from biochinones.
  • compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, in principle there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.
  • the preparations used in the process according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
  • this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on Total weight of the application mixture, especially ethanol or isopropanol to understand.
  • the compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, such as, for example, 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
  • the dyeing preparation of the first process step contains at least one color-changing component.
  • the color-modifying component is selected from at least one (a) oxidation dye precursor and / or (b) direct dye and / or (c) natural dye and / or (d) oxo dye precursor.
  • the dyeing preparation contains as color-modifying component at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the dyeing formulations contain at least one developer component and optionally at least one coupler component.
  • the developer components can form the actual dyes with one another, but preferably with coupler components.
  • the colorants of the present invention contain at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the oxidation dye precursors are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the oxidation dye ready for use.
  • the developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides and hydrobromides or the sulfates.
  • developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other. Although the molar use has proven to be expedient, a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components may be contained in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 2.
  • Preferred oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are p-phenylenediamine derivatives.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6- Dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives according to the invention are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-Bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 2-methoxymethyl-p phenylenediamine and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • preferred binuclear developer components are selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N
  • Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2 -hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecan or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • p-amino phenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts.
  • Particularly preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-ol hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, A-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl phenol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4 -Amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4 -Amino-2,6-dichlor
  • Very particularly preferred compounds are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-amino-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl ) - phenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5, 6-triamino-pyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are, in particular, the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- Diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl- 3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-t-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-t-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl)
  • pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines particular preference is given to pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3 , 7-diamine, pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine, 3-aminopyrazolo [1 , 5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol, 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol, 2- (J-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine 3-ylamino) ethanol, 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyr
  • Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine , N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazole) 1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N
  • Very particularly preferred developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • the developer components are preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one developer component is additionally used when using at least one coupler component.
  • Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component.
  • Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups.
  • the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), so the said groups are preferably in ortho position or meta position to each other.
  • Coupler components according to the invention are preferably selected as at least one compound from one of the following classes:
  • o-aminophenol derivatives such as o-aminophenol
  • Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group having at least one hydroxy group
  • Pyrazolone derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
  • Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
  • Preferred m-aminophenol coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6 methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino- 4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-diethylaminophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3 Ethylamino-4-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol and the physiologically acceptable salts of all the compounds mentioned above.
  • Preferred m-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from m-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane , 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-Hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2- ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino ) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2-
  • Preferred o-diaminobenzene coupler components are selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene and the physiologically acceptable salts of all of the aforementioned compounds.
  • Preferred di- or trihydroxybenzenes and derivatives thereof are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from resorcinol, resorcinol monoethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, A-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene.
  • Preferred pyridine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6 -methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 3,5-diamino-2 , 6-dimethoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, 2- (2-methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2- (4'-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine, and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds ,
  • Preferred naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 3 Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene.
  • Preferred indole derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • Preferred indoline derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline and 7-hydroxyindoline and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected from at least one compound of the group formed from 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2 -Amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
  • coupler components according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2 -methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -ethanol, 1, 3 Bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2 '-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2- ( ⁇ 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl ⁇ amino) ethanol, 2 - ( ⁇ 3 - [
  • Resorcinol 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, very particular preference is given thereto.
  • the coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.0001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one substantive dye. These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.
  • Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 known compounds.
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic
  • Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive
  • the cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.
  • Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC HC Red 11, HC Red 11, HC Red 11, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 well-known compounds, as well 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino
  • the optionally contained substantive dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts even more Contain components, as far as they do not adversely affect the staining result or for other reasons, such as toxicological, must be excluded.
  • direct dyes also occurring in nature dyes are used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu and alkano root are included.
  • direct dyes also occurring in nature dyes are used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu and alkano root are included.
  • the dyestuff precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably indoles and indolines which have at least two groups selected from hydroxy and / or amino groups, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • Compositions according to the invention which comprise precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably used as air-oxidative colorants. Consequently, in this embodiment said compositions are not added with an additional oxidizing agent.
  • the dye precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are each preferably used in an amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 3% by weight.
  • Particularly suitable as precursors of natural-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6 dihydroxyindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, especially 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.
  • Derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindole are also outstandingly suitable as precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.
  • Another possibility for color change is the use of colorants containing so-called Oxofarbstoffvor employment.
  • a first class of oxo dye precursors are compounds having at least one reactive carbonyl group. This first class is called a component (Oxo1).
  • a second class of oxo dye precursors are C, H-acidic compounds and primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group compounds, which in turn are selected from compounds of the group formed from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds. This second class is called a component (Oxo2).
  • the aforementioned components (oxo1) and (oxo2) are generally not themselves dyes, and therefore are not in themselves suitable for coloring keratin-containing fibers. In combination, they form dyes in a non-oxidative process of so-called oxo dyeing. The resulting dyeings have partially color fastness on the keratin-containing fiber, which are comparable to those of the oxidation dyeing.
  • the Nuancenspektrum achievable with the gentle oxo staining is very broad and the color obtained often has an acceptable brilliance and color depth.
  • the method of oxo staining can be readily combined with the oxidative staining system.
  • oxo dye precursors can also be used as the color-modifying component according to the invention.
  • Oxofarbstoffvor pas are preferred as a combination of at least one compound containing at least one reactive carbonyl group (component (Oxo1)) with at least one compound (component Oxo2) compounds selected from (Oxo2a) C, H-acidic compounds and / or from
  • the above-mentioned compounds of the component (Oxo1) as well as the component (Oxo2), when used, are each preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent used.
  • Oxidative dyeing of the fibers can in principle be carried out with atmospheric oxygen in the presence of oxidation dye precursors.
  • preference is given to using a chemical oxidizing agent especially if, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired. This lightening effect may be desired regardless of the staining method.
  • Suitable oxidizing agents are persulfates, peroxodisulfates, chlorites, hypochlorites and, in particular, hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine and sodium borate.
  • a preferred embodiment of the process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the dyeing preparation additionally contains at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and / or one of its addition products of organic or inorganic compounds.
  • Preferred addition products are the addition products of hydrogen peroxide to urea, melamine and sodium borate.
  • hydrogen peroxide is preferably used as the oxidizing agent.
  • the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the ready-to-use agent is preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, in each case based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • Such oxidizing agent preparations are preferably aqueous, flowable oxidizing agent preparations.
  • Preferred preparations are characterized in that the flowable oxidizing agent preparation - based on their weight - 40 to 90 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 85 wt .-%, particularly preferably 55 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably 60 to 77, 5 wt .-% and in particular 65 to 75 wt .-% water.
  • the oxidation colorant can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which promotes the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated.
  • a catalyst which promotes the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated.
  • catalysts are z.
  • the agent according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one anionic acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymer or copolymer.
  • Preferred polymers of this type are:
  • the anionic acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the Total weight of the dye preparation, included.
  • the actual dyeing preparation is expediently prepared immediately before use by mixing a preparation according to the invention containing at least one color-modifying component and at least one fiber-structure-improving active ingredient, and a preparation containing the additional oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • the method according to the invention is characterized in that the dyeing preparation contains as fiber-structure-improving active ingredient at least one active ingredient selected from hydroxyl-containing amino acids and / or plant extracts.
  • the dyeing preparation contains, as a fiber-structure-improving active substance, serine and / or an extract of the seeds of Moringa oleifera.
  • the fiber-structure-improving active ingredient is selected from hydroxyl-containing amino acids.
  • hydroxyl-containing amino acid in the context of the invention, an organic compound which contains in its structure at least one protonatable amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and at least one hydroxyl group.
  • the hydroxyl group is bonded to an aliphatic radical.
  • Preferred hydroxyl-containing amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids and ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids in turn, threonine, 4-hydroxyproline and, in particular, serine are preferred.
  • the dyeing preparation contains serine as fiber-structure-improving active substance.
  • ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids usually contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom.
  • both possible enantiomers can be used equally as a specific compound or else mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates.
  • the dyestuff preparation particularly preferably contains L-serine, D-serine or D / L-serine as the fiber-structure-improving active substance, but most preferably L-serine.
  • the hydroxyl-containing amino acids may preferably be added to the inventive compositions in free form. In a number of cases, however, it is also advantageous to use the amino acids in salt form. Preferred salts are then the compounds with hydrohalic acids or sulfuric acid, in particular the hydrochlorides, the hydrobromides and the sulfates.
  • An inventively particularly preferred hydroxyl-containing amino acid is L-serine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.
  • the hydroxyl-containing amino acid is preferably present in the dyeing formulations according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
  • the dyeing preparation contains a plant extract as fiber-structure-improving active substance, provided that this plant extract has the fiber-structure-improving properties.
  • the plant extracts according to the invention can be obtained from all parts of the plants.
  • the plant extracts are preferably obtained by extraction with organic solvents (such as, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethyl ether, benzene, benzene, chloroform) or by steam distillation.
  • organic solvents such as, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethyl ether, benzene, benzene, chloroform
  • Preferred plant extracts are, for example, extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and balsams, and the seeds.
  • a plant extract which is particularly preferred according to the invention is the extract of the seeds of Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma).
  • a method preferred according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the dyeing preparation contains as fiber-structure-improving active ingredient an extract from the seeds of Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma).
  • Moringa growths in particular Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma), Moringa drouhardii, Moringa concanensis or Moringa peregrin, better known by their common name "miracle tree”, are preferably native to tropical regions
  • the various parts of this plant genus have been used since ancient times especially for medical purposes
  • the protein is obtained from the seeds of the Moringa growths by gentle extraction with water and glycerol, this protein having a molecular weight of 500 to 50,000 daltons
  • Preferred is a protein extract having a molecular weight of 3,000 to 30,000 daltons, more preferably 5,000 to 15,000
  • the extracted extract is obtained from the plant Moringa oleifera.Of course,
  • the above-described protein extract from the seeds of the Moringa growths is contained in an amount of at least 0.001 to 20% by weight.
  • amounts of the extract of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total preparation used.
  • a dyeing preparation is applied to the keratinic fibers and left in the hair for a certain exposure time.
  • the application of the dyeing preparation is usually done by hand by the user.
  • Personal protective clothing is preferably worn here, in particular suitable protective gloves, for example made of plastic or latex for single use (disposable gloves) and optionally an apron.
  • an application aid on the keratinic fibers are comb, brush, brush, mascara brush or applicette.
  • An applicette is understood to be a broad brush, on the end of which there is a tip which allows and simplifies the division of bundles of fibers from the total amount of fibers.
  • the application and the contact temperature of the dye preparation is room temperature up to 45 ° C.
  • the effect of the dyeing preparation can be enhanced by external heat input, such as by means of a heat hood.
  • the preferred exposure time T1 of the dyeing preparation to the keratinic fiber is 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 5 to 35 minutes.
  • a cleaning preparation in this case is preferably warm water, which optionally additionally contains surface-active additives (surfactants).
  • the preferred application temperature of the cleaning preparation is in particular at 25 ° C to 60 0 C, preferably at 30 0 C to 55 ° C.
  • the keratin fibers are optionally dried with a towel or a hot air blower (hair dryer).
  • the desired small reduction in the fiber structure thickness can only be achieved if the second process step is followed as soon as possible after completion of the first process step. If the second process step is only carried out with a delay of a few hours or even days, then no significant positive effect with respect to the fiber structure strength is more recognizable.
  • the period of time after the end of the first process step until the beginning of the second process step is therefore not more than 60 minutes, preferably not more than 30 minutes and particularly preferably not more than 10 minutes. It may be preferable to start the second method step immediately after the completion of the first method step.
  • aftertreatment agent comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one active ingredient selected from biochinones, applied to the keratinic fibers is left on the fibers for a contact time T2 and subsequently washed out.
  • biochinone active substances are natural, prenylated quinones which, as a common structural feature, carry a quinone according to formula (B) and differ in the substituents R 1, R 2 and R 3 and the degree of prenylation n:
  • biochinones are mitochinonones or coenzyme Q. These have as a common structural feature a compound according to formula (BC), wherein R1 is a methyl group and R2 and R3 are each a methoxy group. The degree of prenylation is given by the number n and is at the same time giving the name of the mitochinones (ubiquinone 5n or coenzyme Q n ).
  • Preferred mitoquinones have a degree of prenylation of 1 to 15.
  • Plastochinones which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R 2 and R 3 in compounds of the formula (BC) are each methyl, while the substituent R 1 is hydrogen.
  • the degree of prenylation is likewise given by the number n and is preferably between a value of 1 and 20, in particular 1 to 15.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment is characterized in that the preparation for the aftertreatment of the keratinic fibers as the active ingredient ubiquinone-50 (coenzyme Q 10 ) contains.
  • the biochinone active substances are preferably present in the preparation for the after-treatment in an amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the entire preparation.
  • the effect of the method according to the invention can be increased, in particular, if the aftertreatment agent is a combination of the biochinone active ingredient according to the invention and at least one further active ingredient selected from the group comprising amides of pantoic acid, in particular panthenol and / or pantothenic acid , and pantolactone, contains.
  • the additional active ingredient of the aftertreatment agent is preferably selected from amides of pantoic acid ((2R) -2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanoic acid) according to formula (PA):
  • R is an optionally substituted alkyl chain, wherein R as substituent contains a halogen, an amino group, a hydroxyl group, a carboxyl group, and / or a carbamoyl group, and R 'is hydrogen or a methyl group.
  • Particularly preferred aftertreatment agents according to the invention comprise, as amides of pantoic acid, a compound according to formula (PA) in which R 'is hydrogen and R 3-hydroxypropyl (panthenol) or 3-hydroxy-3-oxopropyl (pantothenic acid).
  • PA formula
  • the additional active ingredient selected from the group comprising amides of pantoic acid, in particular panthenol and / or pantothenic acid, and pantolactone is preferably present in the after-treatment agent in an amount of 0.005 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight. -%, in each case based on the weight of the total preparation included.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention is therefore given when the aftertreatment agent additionally contains panthenol.
  • the aftertreatment agent of the second process step contains an active ingredient combination of a biochinone and of panthenol, in particular of ubiquinone-50 and panthenol.
  • an aftertreatment agent is applied to the keratinic fibers and left in the hair for a certain exposure time T2.
  • the application and the contact temperature of the aftertreatment agent is room temperature up to 45 ° C.
  • the effect of the post-treatment agent can be enhanced by external heat, such as by means of a heat hood.
  • the preferred exposure time T2 of the aftertreatment agent to the keratinic fibers is 0.5 to 15 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes.
  • the remaining aftertreatment agent is washed out of the keratinic fibers with the aid of a cleaning preparation.
  • a cleaning preparation in this case is preferably warm water, which optionally additionally contains surface-active additives (surfactants). Such surfactants are described below.
  • the preferred application temperature of the cleaning preparation is in particular at 25 ° C to 60 0 C, preferably at 30 0 C to 55 ° C.
  • the keratinic fibers are optionally dried with a towel or a hot air blower.
  • the ready-to-use preparations for color change and after-treatment preferably comprise flowable preparations.
  • the flowable preparations additionally contain as surface-active substance an emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers depending on the field of application anionic, cationic, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers are selected. These substances will be described in detail below.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as for example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamid
  • the brightening agents according to the invention contain nonionic surfactants.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are, in particular, C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs.
  • the nonethoxylated compounds have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • the alkylene oxide adducts have been found to be saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids each having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, e.g. As cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as under the INCI names quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds.
  • the long alkyl chains of The surfactants mentioned above preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • useful cationic surfactants are the quaternized protein hydrolyzates.
  • a according to the invention particularly suitable compound from substance group of the amidoamine is sold under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 stearamidopropyldimethylamine commercially available.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized Estersalze of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized Estersalze of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • nonionic, zwitterionic and / or cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred.
  • the effect of the active ingredient according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers are, for example, addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; C 2 -C 22 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides; C 8 -C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, with glucose being preferred as the sugar component; Mixtures of alkyl
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the preparations according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the emulsifiers which contain no ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide in the molecule are very particularly preferred
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example nonionic polymers (such as vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes), cationic polymers (such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate-quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol), zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (such as acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride /
  • Gum alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, flax gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such.
  • cellulose derivatives e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such.
  • bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol
  • structurants such as (glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid)
  • hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins and silicone oils
  • protein hydrolysates of plant or animal origin especially elastin, collagen -, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates
  • perfume oils dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins, defoamers (such as silicones, preferably dimethicone), dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents (such as Piroctone Olamine, zinc Omadine and climbazole), sunscreens (especially derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines), active ingredients (such as allantoin, Pyrrolidinoncarbonklaren and their
  • the preparations used according to the invention contain the other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the dyeing formulations of the process according to the invention preferably have a pH in the range from 4 to 12.
  • the use of the colorants takes place in a mildly alkaline medium, preferably at a pH in the range of 8.0 to 10.5.
  • the inventively preferred pH of the aftertreatment agent is in a pH range of pH 3 to 5, preferably 3 to 4.
  • the pH values in the context of the present invention are pH values, which at a temperature of 22 0 C were measured.
  • alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia.
  • Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as, for example, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids.
  • Organic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are monoethanolamine and triethanolamine.
  • Organic alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. Very particular preference is given to sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide.
  • the basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine, particularly preferably L-arginine.
  • another preferred alkalizing agent is ammonia.
  • the acidifying agents and the alkalizing agents are preferably used in each case in an amount of from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the ready-to-use preparation.
  • a second subject of the present invention is a kit of parts which, packaged separately, comprises at least one container A containing a dyeing preparation and at least one container C containing an aftertreatment agent, characterized in that a) the Dye preparation in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-changing component and at least one fiber-structure-improving agent, and that b) the aftertreatment agent in a cosmetic carrier at least one active ingredient selected from the biochinones.
  • the term "container” hereby signifies a receptacle, irrespective of its shape, material or closure, which includes the possibility of containing substances or mixtures of substances, and the term “container” therefore includes, but is not limited to, the interior of a tube Bag or bag, a canister, a can, a tub, a bottle, a jar or a package, a box, a box, an envelope or other container.
  • the components of the dyeing preparation may be contained in a single container, but it is also possible, and optionally preferred, to divide them into different containers and to guide the consumer to mix them together before use.
  • a preferred embodiment of the second subject of the invention is a packaging unit which is characterized in that it also comprises at least one separate container B containing at least one oxidizing agent, and that the dyeing preparation of the container A contains as color-modifying component at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the packaging unit of the second subject of the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one additional component selected from the group consisting of personal protective clothing such as disposable gloves, apron, application aid such as comb, brush, brush or applicette, and Contains instructions for use.
  • the instructions for use contain in particular information and instructions for the consumer (m / f) for the application of the means from the containers of the packaging unit in a method according to the first subject of the invention.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of biochinones following the color change with dyeing formulations containing at least one fiber-structure-improving agent, keratinic fibers to protect the fiber structure.
  • dyeing formulations containing at least one fiber-structure-improving agent, keratinic fibers to protect the fiber structure.
  • Another object of the invention is finally the use of biochinones following the color change of keratinous fibers with dyeing formulations containing at least one fiber-structure-improving agent to obtain the fiber strength.
  • obtaining the fiber strength means the lowest possible reduction of the fiber strength.
  • Fiber strength can be determined by conventional tensile stress experiments well known to those skilled in the art. An example of such an experiment is described below.
  • coloring creams were prepared as follows:
  • Oxidative dye precursor mixture containing in each case by weight, 66.7% by weight of p-toluenediamine sulfate, 4.5% by weight of 3-aminophenol, 16.7% by weight of resorcinol and 12.1% by weight of 4- chlororesorcinol.
  • Extract (Cognis) Lanette D, Lorol, Eumulgin B1, Eumulgin B2 and Lamesoft PO 65 were melted together at 80 0 C and dispersed with a portion of the amount of water. Subsequently, the remaining recipe ingredients were incorporated with stirring in order. It was then made up to 100% by weight with water and the formulation was stirred cold.
  • the formulations E1 and E2 are examples according to the invention.
  • the formulation V1 is a comparative formulation not according to the invention without fiber-structure-improving active ingredient
  • the formulation V2 with panthenol as active ingredient is a non-inventive dyeing preparation.
  • Aculyn ® 33 A INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer (Rohm & Haas)
  • Cutina GMS ® V-INCI name Glyceryl Stearate (Cognis)
  • Hydrotriticum ® WQ INCI name Aqua, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein (Croda)
  • the dyeing and after-treatment process was repeated three times.
  • the Young's modulus (also known as Young's modulus) is defined by the ratio of stress to strain in the Hookeian region of a fiber.
  • the Young's modulus is a measure of the strength of a fiber (the higher the value, the stronger the fiber).
  • the hair fibers were soaked in water for 1 h before being measured at a constant rate of 10 mm-min -1 in the Hooke region (0-1, 5% elongation) by means of a tension-tension system Diastron (UK), and then the Young's modulus was calculated from the applied force.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de modification de la couleur de fibres kératiniques qui est doux pour les fibres. Le procédé selon l'invention est caractérisé par une application en deux étapes et par une combinaison de principes actifs spécifiques, en particulier d'acides aminés contenant des groupes hydroxyle et d'extraits de plantes dans la préparation colorante et de bio-quinones dans l'agent de post-traitement. L'invention concerne également un nécessaire comprenant de telles préparations colorantes et de tels agents de post-traitement. L'invention permet d'améliorer significativement la force des fibres par rapport aux procédés de coloration habituels.
PCT/EP2009/064377 2008-11-03 2009-10-30 Procédé de coloration des cheveux comprenant un post-traitement WO2010060730A1 (fr)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1059079A2 (fr) * 1999-06-09 2000-12-13 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Produits de coiffure alcoholiques contenant des bioquinons
EP1059077A2 (fr) * 1999-06-09 2000-12-13 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Composition traitante pour cheveux contenant de l'ubiquinone
EP1059081A2 (fr) * 1999-06-09 2000-12-13 Beiersdorf AG Composition cosmétique de nettoyage pour cheveux à base d'ubiquinones
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EP1232741A1 (fr) * 2001-02-14 2002-08-21 GOLDWELL GmbH Colorants capillaires ubiquinoniques
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