WO2010057739A1

WO2010057739A1 - Device and method for assembling ring-forming flexible jewellery

Info

Publication number: WO2010057739A1
Application number: PCT/EP2009/063942
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jean-Marie Cadoret
Original assignee: Jean-Marie Cadoret
Priority date: 2008-11-20
Filing date: 2009-10-22
Publication date: 2010-05-27
Also published as: EP2358231A1; FR2938406B3; FR2938406A3

Abstract

The invention pertains to the field of jewellery, and particularly relates to ring-forming flexible jewellery such as necklaces or bracelets obtained by threading pearls on a link (1). The invention relates to a piece of jewellery including means (40, 50, 23, 24, 21, 13, 14) for placing all the pearls of said piece of jewellery under compression by tensioning the link made of a wear-resistant material. The invention also relates to a method for assembling this type of jewellery that advantageously uses said means and that makes it possible for any person without particular skills and holding a user's manual explaining the method to achieve such a result. The means constituting the jewellery can thus be readily proposed in the form of a kit adapted for mail order selling for people fond of making such fancy jewellery.

Description

Device and method for mounting soft jewelry forming rings

The invention is preferably but not exclusively dedicated to the field of so-called fancy jewelery.

In the latter field it is common to make this type of jewelry by threading beads of a relatively large diameter and charms on a link, which pearls eventually penetrate at each of their ends in inserts such as cups and double cups. For aesthetic reasons, but also to ensure the longevity of the link, the pearls must be maintained under a certain compression between them and on the cups so as to constitute an assembly not letting appear the mounting link between said beads, for the aesthetic appearance, and to limit the relative movements between the beads and the link, movements that cause friction and wear of said link.

For ergonomic reasons it is also desirable that the bracelet can be threaded and removed from the wrist easily with one hand. According to the prior art these requirements are met by mounting these bracelets on a very elastic link, such as a wire made of a material derived from polyurethane commonly called "spandex" or "elastane". The beads and interleaves are threaded onto the elastic link, the ends of said link are then joined by a generally triple or double knot node, applying a tension during the knotting. The knot is hidden in a pearl or cup.

The tension installed in the tie at the time of the knotting keeps the pearls under a slight compression, sufficient to hide the link when the bracelet is worn on the wrist. The strong elastic deformation capacity of the link and its low modulus of elasticity make it possible to easily remove the bracelet so as to put it on the wrist, so that

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) type of bracelet does not require clasp. On the other hand, the installed tension is not sufficient to prevent the small relative displacements between the pearls and the link, movements consecutive to the movements of the wrist when the bracelet is worn, so that the link, otherwise constituted of a weak material , eventually wear out and break.

The other mounting technique known from the prior art, is to mount the bracelet on wired wire, that is to say a metal or composite link, for example nylon-clad metal. This type of link has in fact a wear resistance significantly higher than the elastic yarn and is therefore preferred when said bracelets wear pearls of noble materials because of the greater reliability it provides.

According to this embodiment of the prior art, after threading the beads and spacers, the ends of the link are connected to a ring located on a clasp and then crimped with beads to crush. In addition to the fact that the mounting on this type of wire requires a clasp, said assembly does not allow to install a tension in the link and there is still a play between the pearls revealing the wired wire. In addition, the crimp beads are visible. This type of bracelet is therefore unsightly, and, if the crimps must remain discreet, they are areas of weakness, especially if a tension is applied when closing or opening the bracelet, which can no longer be put on the wrist also easy.

To facilitate the opening and closing of the bracelet on the wrist, it is known to use a magnetic clasp. However, according to the prior art, most clasps of this type remain connected to the link by rings and solve neither the aesthetic problem nor the structural weakness of the crimps of the link on these rings.

German Patent Application DE10232292A1 discloses a bracelet comprising beads strung on a link, which link comprises stopping nodes between each bead. A cup is threaded at each end of the

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) link that is stopped in this cup by a nylon ring set and embedded in resin on the bottom of the cup. The magnets are then crimped into said cup. This technical solution makes it possible to dispense with crimp beads to connect the magnets and thus responds to the aesthetic problem and at least in part to the reliability of the connection with the clasp, the link and the ring being embedded in the resin on the bottom of the the cup; but it requires the use of a sufficiently flexible link to allow the knotting between each bead, which knots are essential to immobilize the beads because the method of crimping the ends does not allow to install a tension on the entire link. This type of jewel therefore preferably uses a link consisting of a nylon or silk thread that is not very suitable for the fancy pearl holder. The technique is long implementation due to the realization of the nodes and the setting time of the resin. It also requires a technique of crimping the magnets in the end cups and leaves no room for mounting error: in such a case, once the setting of the resin made, the end cups are no longer usable, the pearls must be removed by cutting the pearl bead link and the set must be reassembled on a new link with new end cups. The invention aims to solve the disadvantages of the prior art by proposing a jewel comprising means for placing all the beads of said jewel in compression by tensioning the link consisting of a material resistant to wear . The invention also relates to a method of mounting this type of jewel advantageously using said means and allowing any person without special skill and provided with a user manual explaining the process, to obtain such a result. Thus, the means constituting the jewel can easily be proposed in kit adapted to the mail order for lovers of making such fancy jewelry. The invention proposes a flexible jewel in the form of a ring consisting of:

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) a plurality of pierced beads,

- A link through the plurality of beads and having two ends, the beads crossed by the link at each end forming a clasp;

- Means able to install a permanent tension in the link.

Thus, unlike the embodiments of the prior art, the link passes through all the beads including the end beads that form clasp. Everything is held in place by a permanent tension installed in the link and not by crimping or knotting. The presence of a clasp allows the use of a link made of a resistant material such as stainless steel wire, piano wire, Kevlar wire or carbon fiber. The strength of such a link is such that it can be used in a small diameter, between 0.2 and 0.5 mm, which opens the range of usable beads and keeps the mechanical flexibility of the jewel while installing a longitudinal tension sufficient to limit the movements of the beads and their friction on the link and to hide the link in all circumstances.

Advantageously, the bore of at least one of the clasp end beads comprises a diameter variation. This variation in diameter can take the form of a shoulder, a conical portion or any more complex shape and makes it possible to achieve a solid point of attachment of the end of the link in the end bead, by crimping to using a ring, by making a stopping knot, by welding or by gluing. The use of a crimping ring threaded on the link and cooperating with the bore also allows to install the tension in the link. In all cases the locking of the link remains hidden in the bore of the pearl.

According to another embodiment that can be combined with the previous embodiment, the means able to install a permanent tension in the link

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) include a link consisting of two strands. Said strands are stopped in the end beads by crimping, gluing, welding or by stopping knots. The tension is installed in the link by making a knitting node between the strands after the set of beads have been threaded on each of the strands. This embodiment is more particularly adapted to links whose flexibility is sufficient to allow the realization of said node ajut.

Advantageously according to another embodiment which can be combined with the preceding and adapted to any kind of link, the voltage means comprise:

a bead forming a clasp of which a first boring portion is of diameter equal to or greater than twice the diameter of the link and a second portion of bore having a diameter greater than that of the first portion;

a cylindrical ring whose internal diameter is equal to or greater than that of the link and the outer diameter greater than the bore diameter of the first portion but smaller than the bore diameter of the second portion.

This embodiment allows easy installation of the permanent tension in the link while performing crimping. This embodiment allows a robust and perfect fitting of the jewel even by a person with no experience, provided it is provided with a description of the operating mode. Advantageously, only one of the end beads comprises this device, the other end bead being pre-mounted on the link by any means known to those skilled in the art.

Advantageously, the clasp consists of magnetic studs. This embodiment is compatible with all the previous embodiments, and, according to the embodiment, at least one of the magnetic pads will comprise a bore having a diameter variation, the other being advantageously pre-mounted on link. In this case this

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) diameter variation also serves as a polarizer so that said magnetic pad is mounted in the right direction at the other end and that the two magnets are in facing relation with opposite polarity faces.

The invention also relates to a mounting kit adapted for mail order comprising a link on which is pre-assembled a bead forming part of a clasp at one end of said link, an end bead having a bore whose diameter is variable along the length, a crimping ring adapted to the link and the end bead and instructions explaining the mounting methods adapted to said kit. The instructions can be integrated into the kit as a form or booklet or refer to an internet address giving access to different editing techniques adapted to the kit.

Alternatively the kit may comprise a link on which is preassembled at each end a bead forming a clasp. The invention will now be more specifically described in the context of preferred embodiments, which are in no way limiting, represented in FIGS. 1 to 12, in which:

- Figure 1 shows a general sectional view of an embodiment of a jewel according to the invention; - Figure 2 shows a block diagram in longitudinal section of the tensioning (Figure 2A) and crimping (Figure 2B) of the link according to one embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 3 illustrates a mode of stopping an end bead on the link by a stopping node; FIG. 4 represents a step of a mounting method according to one embodiment of the invention by the connection of two strands with an ajut node;

FIG. 5 illustrates an exemplary embodiment of an ajut node;

FIGS. 6 to 9 are a block diagram of an embodiment of the

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) mounting a jewel according to the invention in which a ring is set in the end bead by a loop of the link; - Figures 10 to 12 illustrates in block diagram a particular embodiment of the invention to include two rows of parallel beads in the jewel.

The invention advantageously uses points attached and locked in the axis of the link (1), all the beads, including the end beads (2, 3) being traversed by the link (1). Figure 1, the end bead (2 and / or 3) comprises a bore (20) whose diameter varies along its length. For example, it has a conical portion (21) and an end counterbore (22). This characteristic is advantageously used for crimping the end of the link (1) in said bead (2). According to an exemplary embodiment, this crimping is obtained by the use of a conical ring (40) whose internal diameter is adjusted to the diameter of the link so that said ring can slide on said link. The link is threaded into the end bead (2) which bead is stopped in translation either by appropriate tooling (60) and / or by the beads previously threaded on the link. The outer surface of the ring (40) is conical corresponding to that of the bore.

It consists of a deformable material, for example plastic or malleable bronze. Advantageously, the half-angle at the top of the cone is smaller than the angle of friction between the material constituting the ring (40) and the material constituting the end bead (2) so that the adjustment of the ring (40) in the bore is self-jamming. The outer surface of the ring may also include a crenellated profile so as to promote jamming.

To crimp the end of the link (1) in the end bead, the ring (40) is forced into the bore. The ring (40) tightens on the link (1) and stops in the bore (21). The whole can be secured in

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) introducing a drop of glue, for example a cyanoacrylate glue, into the counterbore (22). If this operation is carried out while the jewel is mounted, it makes it possible to put the link under permanent tension by applying this tension (42) on the link during the introduction (41) of the ring in the bore. This gesture, however, requires a certain dexterity that is why the same technique can be used advantageously to pre-crimp end beads on a link. Said link can then be delivered in kit with its pre-set end beads to allow a person without special technical knowledge who is communicated the procedure, to mount such a jewel.

3, according to another alternative, the end beads (2, 3) comprise a stepped bore (20) of which a first section (23) has a diameter greater than or equal to the link and a second section (24) having a diameter greater than first. In this case, the immobilization of the link in the end beads can be performed by a stop node (13), for example an eight-node, made at each end of the link. The knot is received in the larger diameter portion (24) of the bore of the end beads. Advantageously it can be secured in this position by a drop of glue. According to a first embodiment adapted to the presentation of the invention in a mounting kit, it comprises a link (1) on which are threaded two end beads whose bore has a diameter variation. Said beads are stopped at the ends by a stop knot or by crimping according to one of the techniques described above. Figure 4, to achieve the assembly, the link is first separated into two strands (11, 12). The pearls constituting the jewel are strung on each of the strands. Figure 5, the two strands are then gathered by an ajut node (14), for example a flat knot. The tension is installed in the link thus reconstituted during the knotting. The knot is concealed in a cup (100). According to another embodiment, the proposed kit includes a link

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) on which only one end bead (3) is crimped. The other end bead (2) comprises a stepped bore. The pearls are strung on the link (1).

At the end, Figure 6, the link is inserted into the end bead (2), and a cylindrical ring (50) made of a malleable material is also threaded at the free end of the link. By forming a loop, the free end of the link is inserted in the reverse direction into the end bead and then into

N beads behind this one, figure 7.

The tension is installed by pulling on the free end of the link while sliding the ring (50) on the link until it is housed in the portion (24) of larger diameter of the bore of the end bead.

Figure 8, the ring (50) is pushed into the bore (24), then the loop is closed on the ring (50) by pulling on the free end of the link (1) while maintaining the cylindrical ring (50). ) in the bore (24). Figure 9, the over-length (15) link is cut and the end of said link is concealed in a cup (110) or between two beads. Crimping can be secured by a drop of glue in the bore (24).

Advantageously, whatever the embodiment, the end beads may be magnetic studs and they may be housed in cups (111) for aesthetic reasons. In this case, only the tension of the link holds said stud in the cup and no crimping or welding thereof is necessary.

According to a particular embodiment, the method can be used to mount a jewel having two rows (16,17) of parallel threaded beads. Figure 10, after having threaded the beads on the link (1) on which is pre-crimped an end bead (3) forming part of the clasp, a loop is performed with the link (1) before donning the other end bead (2) at its end, Figure 11. The voltage is then installed in the link (1) which allows to obtain said two rows (16,17) while using a single link (1). Those skilled in the art will readily combine these embodiments

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) for the realization of mounting kits or for the assembly of jewels in which a permanent tension is installed in the link.

The above description clearly illustrates that by its different characteristics and advantages, the present invention achieves the objectives it has set for itself. In particular, the invention makes it possible to propose mounting kits adapted to the easy assembly of jewelry necklace or bracelet type whose link is subject to a permanent installed tension ensuring the light compression of the pearls and limiting the movements of those without intermediate knotting.

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26)

Claims

1. Flexible ring-shaped jewel characterized in that it consists of:

- a plurality of pierced beads

- a link (1) passing through the plurality of beads and comprising two ends, the beads (2,3) traversed by the link at each end forming a clasp,

- Means (40, 50, 23, 24, 21, 13, 14) adapted to install a permanent tension in the link comprising an end bead forming part of the clasp whose bore (20) has a variation in diameter ( 21, 24) along its length

2. Jewel according to claim 1 characterized in that the link (1) consists of two strands (11, 12) and the tensioning means comprise an ajut node (13) connecting the two strands between the ends of the jewel .

3. Jewel according to claim 1 characterized in that the tensioning means comprise:

a bead (2) forming part of the clasp of which a first bore portion (25) is of diameter equal to or greater than 2 times the diameter of the link (1) and a second bore portion (24) is greater in diameter than that of the first portion

a ring (50) whose inner diameter is equal to or greater than that of the link (1) and the outer diameter greater than the bore diameter of the first portion (25) but less than the diameter; boring the second portion (24).

4. Jewel according to claim 1 characterized in that the clasping beads are magnetic studs.

5. Process for the manufacture of a jewel according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises the steps of:

a) immobilizing in translation an end bead (2) traversed by the link while all the pearls constituting the jewel are threaded onto said link (1),

b) pull on the free end of the link in order to put the entire length of said link under tension,

c) immobilizing the link (1) with respect to said end bead by wedging a ring (40,50) threaded on the link in the bore (21, 24) of said end bead,

so as to install a permanent tension in the link.

6. Method according to claim 5 characterized in that it comprises between steps a) and b) a step of making a loop at the free end of the link and iron said end in the bore of the end bead .

7. The method of claim 5 characterized in that it comprises a step of making a loop with the link prior to step a) so as to obtain a jewel comprising a single link and two rows of beads strung parallel.

8. Process for the manufacture of a jewel according to claim 2 characterized in that it comprises operations consisting of: - Starting from a link on which two end beads (2,3) are pre-assembled, cut said link to form two strands (11, 12) each having a bead end

- put beads on each of the strands (11, 12)

- gathering the two strands (11, 12) by an ajut node (13) by applying a tension in the link over the entire length of the jewel

9. Kit for mounting a jewel according to claim 1 characterized in that it comprises:

a link on which is pre-assembled a first bead (3) forming part of a clasp at one of the ends of said link,

- a second end bead (2) forming the other part of the clasp and having a bore (20) whose diameter is variable along the length,

a crimping ring (40, 50) adapted to the link (1) and to the second end bead,

- Mounting instructions according to the method of any one of claims 5 to 7.

10. Kit adapted to the mounting of a jewel according to claim 2 characterized in that it comprises:

- a link (1)

two pre-assembled beads at each end of said link

- assembly instructions according to the method of claim 8.