WO2010043868A2 - Tissus élastiques et leurs procédés et appareil de fabrication - Google Patents

Tissus élastiques et leurs procédés et appareil de fabrication Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010043868A2
WO2010043868A2 PCT/GB2009/002468 GB2009002468W WO2010043868A2 WO 2010043868 A2 WO2010043868 A2 WO 2010043868A2 GB 2009002468 W GB2009002468 W GB 2009002468W WO 2010043868 A2 WO2010043868 A2 WO 2010043868A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
length
elastomeric
width
warp
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/GB2009/002468
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2010043868A3 (fr
Inventor
Robert Arthur Glenn
Krishan Weerawansa
Nalantha De Alwis
Original Assignee
Stretchline Intellectual Properties Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from GB0818882A external-priority patent/GB0818882D0/en
Application filed by Stretchline Intellectual Properties Limited filed Critical Stretchline Intellectual Properties Limited
Priority to EP09745084A priority Critical patent/EP2361326A2/fr
Publication of WO2010043868A2 publication Critical patent/WO2010043868A2/fr
Publication of WO2010043868A3 publication Critical patent/WO2010043868A3/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
    • D03D3/06—Fabrics of varying width
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to elastic fabrics and methods of making the same.
  • the fabrics are particularly suitable for incorporating into textile goods, particularly clothing garments, and especially brassieres and other garments which include a shoulder strap.
  • the fabric of the invention can also be incorporated into other goods with straps, such as bags, carrying cases, etc.
  • US patent No. 5,507,682 describes a shoulder strap that includes elastic warp threads and weft threads extending transversely of and woven into the elastic warp threads.
  • the strap has a longitudinal middle portion whose width is enlarged as compared to the width of the shoulder strap portions extending longitudinally from the middle portion.
  • the spacing between the elastic warp threads in the middle portion is greater than the spacing of the elastic warp threads in the shoulder strap portions connected to the middle portion.
  • the number of weft threads per unit of length in the longitudinal middle portion is greater than in the shoulder strap portions connected to the middle portion.
  • the number of weft threads per unit of length in the middle portion may be approximately 50% greater than the number of weft threads per unit of length in the shoulder strap portions connected to the middle portion.
  • the present invention aims to provide a simple, quick and economical method and apparatus for making an elastic fabric of variable width.
  • a method of making a length of woven fabric having a variable width comprising weaving warp yarn with weft yam; characterised in that the weft yarn is are elastomeric and the elastomeric weft yarn is arranged across the warp yarn to vary the width of the woven fabric along its length.
  • the method involves varying the tension under which the elastomeric weft yam is laid across the warp yarn by varying the weft yarn feeding speed. Increasing the weft yarn feeding speed lowers the tension on the weft yam and the width of the woven fabric increases. Lowering the weft yam feeding speed increases the tension and the width of the woven fabric decreases.
  • the tension under which the weft yarn is laid across the warp yam can be varied by varying the weaving pattern. For example, weaving a weft thread under every other warp thread will produce a tighter weave than weaving the weft thread under two or more warp threads at a time.
  • both the warp yarn and weft yarn are elastomeric.
  • a particularly unexpected and advantageous property of fabric woven according to the present invention is that when the fabric is stretched close to its maximum extent, its width increases compared to its width in a relaxed state. This is particularly beneficial when the fabric is used as a shoulder strap because increasing the width spreads the load over a bigger area. This reduces the pressure that a wearer will feel on their shoulder, making it much more comfortable than conventional shoulder straps.
  • the invention provides a method of making a length of woven fabric, the method comprising weaving warp yam with elastomeric weft yarn; characterised in that the elastomeric weft yarn is laid across the warp yam under tension whereby the width of the woven fabric increases compared to its width in a relaxed state upon applying a longitudinal load to the fabric.
  • the invention also relates to a woven length of fabric characterised in that the fabric comprises warp yarns and elastomeric weft yams arranged whereby the width of the fabric can be increased compared to its width in a relaxed state by applying a longitudinal load to the fabric.
  • both the weft and warp yarns consist of or comprise elastomeric yarn.
  • Another advantage of the method of the invention is that the spacing between threads of the weft yarn is substantially the same throughout the length of the fabric. Hence the stretch and modulus properties will not vary significantly between portions of the fabric having different widths.
  • the method involves arranging the elastomeric weft yarn across the warp yarn so as to produce a tapered fabric.
  • tapered we mean that the width of the fabric decreases incrementally.
  • such an arrangement is achieved by varying (i.e. increasing or decreasing) incrementally the tension under which the elastomeric weft yarn is fed across the warp yam.
  • the method can be used to produce tapered elastic fabric panels which are useful as components of a bra, especially wing (side) panels.
  • a wing panel for a bra is made from several separate components, the elastic fabric being stitched to the edges of the panel.
  • such a multi-component construction has the disadvantage that it is complicated to assemble, bulky and sometimes uncomfortable for the wearer, especially on bras with larger cup sizes.
  • Bra wing panels made according to the method of the invention offer better levels of elastic support than known multicomponent panels, but they are far easier to make and more comfortable to wear because they can be made as a monocomponent seam-free fabric.
  • the invention provides a method for making a length of woven elastic fabric comprising weaving warp yarn and elastomeric weft yarn; wherein the pick density and/or weave pattern is varied during weaving to produce two or more portions along the length and/or width of the woven fabric having different elastic modulus/stretch properties.
  • the warp density can be used to vary the elastic modulus/stretch properties across the width of the woven fabric, for instance, as described in the following examples.
  • the warp yarns comprise or consist of elastomeric yarn.
  • the pick density is varied by varying the speed of the take-off roller of a weaving machine.
  • Conventional weaving machines are arranged to feed weft yarns at a constant speed.
  • the invention provides a weaving machine wherein the machine is equipped with a controller for feeding weft yarn at two or more different speeds.
  • the weaving machine is equipped with a sensor for detecting a predetermined length of fabric. Once a predetermined length has been detected the sensor can signal the controller to vary the speed at which the weft yarn is fed and thereby vary the width of the resulting woven fabric.
  • the controller is arranged to operate a motor, the motor being connected to the weft feed wheel of the weaving machine.
  • the preferred weaving machine of the invention can be programmed or otherwise set to produce a length of woven fabric with a desired variable width pattern.
  • the invention also provides a weaving machine having a take-off roller and having means to vary the speed of the take-off roller to vary the pick density during a weaving operation.
  • warp yarns of a higher/heavier count than those used in another portion of the fabric can be used to achieve two or more portions having different elastic modulus properties.
  • more warp ends per dent are used on the outer edge portions than in the centre body panel. This is seen most clearly from the drawing-in plan where the underband and underarm portions have 10 ends, whereas the centre body panel only has 2 ends per dent (see figures 9A and 9B).
  • the invention provides a tubular fabric formed from a length of woven fabric of the invention, such as a flat or open form of the fabric of the invention.
  • Methods for manufacturing a tubular fabric from a flat or open form of a fabric are known in the art.
  • the OB1 AT116 system produced by Sew Systems Ltd., 53 lliffe Avenue, Odeby, Leicester, LE5 5LH, England, provides a convenient automated method whereby flat fabric is passed through a folder system which takes the single flat strip and forms it into a tubular form which can be sewn into a garment.
  • Tubular fabrics are known to be of use in housing underwires (such as brassiere wires) in underwired garments such as brassieres or swimming costumes.
  • the tubular fabric of the invention may conveniently be used to house an underwire in an underwired garment (such as brassiere or swimming costume), for example where a tubular fabric having the advantageous properties of the fabric of the invention are desired.
  • an anti-slip material is applied to wide sections of the length of fabric after weaving.
  • a silicone monolayer or two layers of silicone where the first layer is silicone (against the fabric surface) and has a higher viscosity than a second silicone layer on top of the first layer.
  • the low viscosity silicone has a much tackier (anti-slip) surface. Silicone with low viscosity has a very tacky nature but it bonds very weakly with textiles. Hence, by putting it over a higher viscosity silicone that bonds well with textiles, the lower viscosity silicone layer bonds well with the higher viscosity silicone which in turn bonds well with the surface of the fabric to create a durable layer of tacky silicone on the surface of the fabric.
  • anti-slip material helps to prevent the increased width section from slipping off the shoulder of a wearer when the length of fabric is used as a shoulder strap.
  • a tacky material like natural rubber may be used in the warp yarn. It is preferred that the above methods and apparatus are used in combination with one or more of the other aspects of the invention.
  • Fig 1 (i) is a schematic showing the arrangement of a weaving machine for use in the methods of the invention.
  • Fig 1 (ii) is a schematic representation of a woven fabric of the invention showing the warp and weft yarn arrangement and illustrating how the width of the fabric can be controlled by varying the feed speed of the weft yarn during the weaving process.
  • Fig 1(iii) photograph of actual length of fabric having variable width.
  • Fig 2A shows exemplary lengths of fabric having different variable width Designs.
  • Fig 2B photograph of actual fabric having variable width designs shown in
  • Fig. 2A. Fig 2C corresponding weft yarn feed speeds used to achieve the width variations A to D shown in Figure 2(A) and 2(B).
  • Fig 3(a) (a-1 ) (a-2) exemplary weaving plan and a preferred fabric construction according to the invention.
  • Fig 4A and 4B schematic showing how the width of a preferred fabric of the invention increases (Fig. 4B) as compared to its width in a relaxed state (Fig. 4A) when a longitudinal load is applied to the fabric.
  • Fig 4C drawings in plan and construction of the fabric shown in Fig. 4A and
  • ig 4D photographs showing width extensions of actual fabric.
  • ig 5 schematic showing arrangement of warp and weft yarns to achieve portions along the length of the fabric having different elastic modulus/ stretch properties.
  • ig 6 shows variation in speed of take-off roller used to achieve variations in stretch properties seen in Fig. 5.
  • ig 7 photograph of tapered fabric of the invention in the form of a bra wing. Outer edge portions ("power bands") have a different stretch property than the inner body panel. However the entire bra wing is made as a single fabric using the weaving methods of the invention.
  • Fig 8 photograph of a conventional bra wing construction. Elastic strips are stitched or bonded to a non-elastic fabric panel which is cut to achieve a tapered shape. The attachment of the elastic strips forms seams which adversely affects comfort for a wearer.
  • Fig 9A shows weave construction of the preferred fabric of the invention for use as a bra wing shown in Fig 7.
  • the underarm and under-band outer edge portions have a high warp density.
  • Fig 9B shows the drawing-in plan and weave construction of the inner body panel of the fabric shown in Fig 7.
  • Example 1 variable width fabric
  • the width of various types of narrow elastic and non elastic tapes can be altered along the length at predefined positions using a standard narrow fabric weaving or jacquard weaving loom.
  • the resultant product can be used for many applications and few options are as follows.
  • Waist bands of apparel as the wider area positioned to the front will help to control the stomach better. If the wider area is positioned to the side it will help to suite the natural curves of the body, especially on women.
  • Tubular fabrics such as fabrics for housing an underwire in an underwired garment (such as a brassiere or swimming costume).
  • the width of a narrow tape is entirely dependent on the width of the front read and the feed/ tension of the weft yarn. Both these parameters are constant once set, hence products woven using these machines end up having a consistent width through out its length.
  • the feed/speed of the weft yarn is varied at pre-defined places whilst the weaving machine is in continuous operation, without interrupting the rest of its functions.
  • Preferred elastomeric yarn for use in the methods of the invention includes "spandex” or “elastane” which is a block copolymer of polyurethane and polyethylene glycol. Trademarks associated with spandex products include LycraTM, ElaspamTM, ROICATM, DarlastonTM and LinelTM.
  • Spandex is produced as monofilament or fused multifilament yarns in a variety of deniers, as is well known in the art.
  • elastomeric yarn such as spandex can be stretched without breaking to more than twice its normal length in a relaxed state.
  • the elastomeric yam immediately returns to its original (relaxed) length.
  • Spandex (ElastaneTM) or another elastomeric yarn can be used in it's bare form or covered ones (single covered) or twice (double covered) or even air covered with another textile yam (Nylon, Polyester, Rayon etc).
  • the advantage in using an elastomeric yarn is that even when the feed speed is reduced to a great extent, it only gets stretched out and does not break. Further, it also gets woven into the product under tension in its stretched out form and contracts the product once the woven fabric passes the front reed of the weaving machine. It is important to note that when an elastomeric yarn such as spandex is used as the weft yarn a width reduction of upto 50% can be achieved compared to 15% that can be achieved when using a non-elastomeric textile yarn.
  • Procedure Control of the speed at which the weft yam is fed is accomplished by means of a sensor, a micro controller and an electric motor that are all interconnected (see Figure 1(i)).
  • the prime function of the sensor is to identify each revolution of the Main Shaft while the machine is in operations. Each revolution of the Main shaft is equivalent to a pick. This information is fed in to the microcontroller so that it can keep a count on picks of the repeat while the machine is in operation.
  • the weft transport unit Drives the weft transport units and varies its speed based on the instruction that it receives from the Micro Controller.
  • the weft transport unit is normally driven through a series of pulleys and belts connected to the main or the crank shaft. This drive is dismantled when fixing the electric motor because in this new set-up the motor is connected directly to the weft transport unit through a belt making it operate independently of the main motor of the weaving machine.
  • a Micro Controller A programmable device which controls the speed of the motor that is fixed to the weft transport unit.
  • the inputs to the Micro controller are signals from the sensor which help it to count the picks while the woven machine is in operation and the Data inputs.
  • the data input is the instruction that we feed which advice the motor to change its speed from R1 to R2 from pick P1 to P2.
  • Speed values R1 , R2, R3 Rx
  • Speed values are set based on the desired width at different points and the shape in which the width should be varied is set by the number of picks (P1 , P2, P3 Px) over which the speed change is done. (See fig. 2)
  • Width increase when fabric is stretched
  • Another feature of the invention is that when the fabric is stretched to its maximum extent, it increases its width by about 10-15% compared to its width in a relaxed state. This is advantageous because the increased width spreads the load over a larger area. Hence the pressure that a wearer feels will be less on the shoulder and thus will be more comfortable.
  • the stretch of woven elastic fabric is primarily dependent on the stretch of the elastomeric yarn, rate at which the elastomeric yam is fed, weave construction; warp density and the pick density (picks per centimetre).
  • all the parameters except the weave construction are uniform throughout the weaving process.
  • the resultant elastic fabric ends up with uniform stretch and modulus right along its length.
  • the non elastic warp yams work on a 1 up 1 down weave working opposite to the elastomeric/ rubber yarns which also work on a 1 up 1 down weave one will end up with a very low stretch and high modulus) compared to a 2 in 2 or 3 in 3 weave construction.
  • this method it is not possible to achieve specific stretch values because not only the stretch gain or loss is limited the weave combinations that can be used are limited too.
  • Control of pick density at portions along the length of the fabric is achieved by controlling the speed of the take-off roller without interrupting the other operations of the machine during the weaving process.
  • the pick density of a fabric product is primarily dependent on the surface speed of the take-off rollers.
  • Machine picks per centimetre Picks per minute
  • the machine for varying the stretch and modulus along the length of the fabric is like that used to make fabric of variable width according to Example 1.
  • the machine is equipped with means (an additional electric motor) to vary the speed of the take-off roller while the weaving process is in operation without interrupting any other operations.
  • an additional electric motor is also connected to the microcontroller and it can instruct the two motors independently to work at different speeds over different pick intervals.
  • any elastic fabric is such that, if all the other variables are kept consistent and only the pick density is reduced the product will end up with a higher stretch compared to the original product, similarly if the pick density is increased the resultant elastic will end up with a lower stretch. Since the speed of the take-off roller is varied which in turn changes the pick density, an elastic fabric with portions along its length having different stretch properties can be produced according to the invention.
  • an elastic fabric can be made to the tapered shape of a bra wing (as shown in Figure 7). Since an elastomeric yarn is used for the weft, the resultant fabric has a stretch both lengthwise as well as widthwise. By using very fine single covered elastomeric yarn, e.g. spandex, along the length, a quite thin fabric can be woven which is very similar to a conventional bra wing panel fabric in terms of the hand feel and the drape.
  • very fine single covered elastomeric yarn e.g. spandex
  • a regular cut and sew or bonded bra wing has where an elastic is stitched or bonded to the edge of the tapered fabric panel, by either increasing the warp density at the edges or by using a thicker elastomeric yam at the edge of the tapered elastic fabric. This eliminates the irritating stitching as well as the bulky seams of conventional bra wings and thereby increases the user comfort for a wearer.
  • this method of making a fabric can create a very strong modulus along the length, even without having power bands like explained above, this product is suitable to use as a bra wing.
  • variable modulus aspects of the invention and/or by using different weave constructions it is possible to create different portions with different elastic modulus/stretch properties ("power zones"). Such features also help to create a better fitting bra.
  • example 3 relates to bras, it will be appreciated that the above features of the invention are beneficial in a range of other applications, especially garment manufacture.
  • a particular application is the field sports clothing, where garments having desirable elastic modulus/stretch properties have been shown to enhance comfort and athletic performance.
  • Example 4 tubular fabric production from a flat fabric
  • a further embodiment of the invention relates to the production of a tubular fabric from a flat (or "open") form of the fabric of the invention.
  • the flat fabric can be formed into a tubular fabric by a variety of methods.
  • the OB1 AT116 system produced by Sew Systems Ltd., 53 lliffe Avenue, Odeby, Leicester, LE5 5LH, England, provides a convenient automated method whereby flat fabric is passed through a folder system which takes the single flat strip and forms it into a tubular form which can be sewn into a garment.
  • an underwire such as a bra wire
  • an underwire can be inserted as the fabric is formed into a tubular form.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

L’invention concerne des procédés et un appareil pour la fabrication d’un morceau d'étoffe tissée comprenant un fil de trame élastomère. Les morceaux de tissu obtenus sont particulièrement utiles comme bretelles pour des vêtements comme des soutiens-gorge. Des modes de réalisation préférés concernent un tissu effilé qui est utile comme composant de vêtements, en particulier d’une partie latérale de soutien-gorge.
PCT/GB2009/002468 2008-10-15 2009-10-15 Tissus élastiques et leurs procédés et appareil de fabrication WO2010043868A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP09745084A EP2361326A2 (fr) 2008-10-15 2009-10-15 Tissus élastiques et leurs procédés et appareil de fabrication

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US13692708P 2008-10-15 2008-10-15
GB0818882.3 2008-10-15
GB0818882A GB0818882D0 (en) 2008-10-15 2008-10-15 Elastic fabrics and methods and apparatus for making the same
US61/136,927 2008-10-15

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2010043868A2 true WO2010043868A2 (fr) 2010-04-22
WO2010043868A3 WO2010043868A3 (fr) 2010-07-15

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EP (1) EP2361326A2 (fr)
WO (1) WO2010043868A2 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011058340A1 (fr) * 2009-10-29 2011-05-19 Xiros Limited Cordon à noeuds tissé résistant au glissement
FR3023564A1 (fr) * 2014-07-11 2016-01-15 Perrin & Fils Tissu et article d'habillement comprenant des zones de compression et methode d'obtention d'un tel tissu.
IT201600109095A1 (it) * 2016-10-28 2018-04-28 Michele Letizia S P A Struttura tessile tubolare e relativo metodo di fabbricazione

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1987005342A1 (fr) * 1986-03-06 1987-09-11 Jukka Reijonen Procede de production d'une bande large/etroite
WO2002035989A2 (fr) * 2000-10-30 2002-05-10 Prodesco, Inc. Greffon tubulaire tisse a zones de souplesses variables
FR2890083A1 (fr) * 2005-08-30 2007-03-02 Cheynet & Fils Sa Rubans a armures et densites variables

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1987005342A1 (fr) * 1986-03-06 1987-09-11 Jukka Reijonen Procede de production d'une bande large/etroite
WO2002035989A2 (fr) * 2000-10-30 2002-05-10 Prodesco, Inc. Greffon tubulaire tisse a zones de souplesses variables
FR2890083A1 (fr) * 2005-08-30 2007-03-02 Cheynet & Fils Sa Rubans a armures et densites variables

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011058340A1 (fr) * 2009-10-29 2011-05-19 Xiros Limited Cordon à noeuds tissé résistant au glissement
FR3023564A1 (fr) * 2014-07-11 2016-01-15 Perrin & Fils Tissu et article d'habillement comprenant des zones de compression et methode d'obtention d'un tel tissu.
US11313055B2 (en) 2014-07-11 2022-04-26 Perrin & Fils Fabric and garment including compression zones and method for producing such a fabric
IT201600109095A1 (it) * 2016-10-28 2018-04-28 Michele Letizia S P A Struttura tessile tubolare e relativo metodo di fabbricazione

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP2361326A2 (fr) 2011-08-31
WO2010043868A3 (fr) 2010-07-15

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