WO2009087698A2

WO2009087698A2 - Machine for testing clothing products and operation method thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2009087698A2
Application number: PCT/IT2008/000780
Authority: WO
Inventors: Lapo Governi; Monica Carfagni
Original assignee: Zetati S.R.L
Priority date: 2008-01-07
Filing date: 2008-12-22
Publication date: 2009-07-16
Also published as: WO2009087698A3; EP2235497A2; ITFI20080003A1

Abstract

A machine is described for testing, through repetitive cycles, at least one finished clothing product (C1C5), i.e. Completely realized, so as to simulate a plurality of conditions of use of said at least one clothing product (C1-C5)

Description

"MACHINE FOR TESTING CLOTHING PRODUCTS AND OPERATION

METHOD THEREOF" DESCRIPTION Technical Field The present invention relates to a machine for testing junctures, closures or materials of a clothing product, in particular clothes and / or accessories, and an operation method thereof.

In particular, the present invention relates to a machine for testing junctures, closures or materials of accessories, such as, for example but not exclusively, bags or suitcases. State of the Art

Generally a clothing product is produces by mutually associating a plurality of different materials (such as for example plastics, metals, fabrics, or natural or synthetic leather or other else) by means of junctures (such as for example seams, glues or resins) and / or any reversible mechanical closure (such as for example zippers, snap closures, buttons). Decorative elements (such as buckles, belts or laces, small chains) may be also provided.

Generally it is known to perform laboratory tests with repeated cycles on at least some of these elements or components (i.e. materials, junctures, mechanical closures or decorative components) before assembling them in order to obtain a finished ready to use clothing product, so as to check its durability and mechanical resistance according to specific needs of the single tested components.

For example, the junctures (seams, glues or resins) can be tested by joining two edges of the material to be tested, and subjecting them to repeated cycles of different stresses. The mechanical closures (zippers, snap closures, buttons) can be tested by fixing them on a plane and activating them through repeated cycles in order to check the performance and resistance thereof.

Moreover, an edge of material (fabric, leather or other) can be subjected to different stresses before assembly, in order to check its resistance and mechanical behavior.

By way of example, below is provided a list of the testing systems which can be performed on one edge or fragment of a material (fabric, leather or other) to be tested: - to bend the edge of the material to be tested according to repetitive cycles, in order to check its flexural strength;

- to stretch the edge of the material in order to check its mechanical resistance; - to friction, according to repetitive cycles, the edge of the material with another test material (which can be a rough surface or another fabric) in order to check its friction or rubbing or abrasion resistance; if the material has been previously colored, it is possible to check the resistance of the color;

- to stretch the edge of the material (generally leather) and to prick it with a sharp tool according to repetitive cycles in order to check the hardness thereof (called by those skilled in the art "crock fastness");

- to apply a chemical product or a mixture of chemical products on the edge of the material in order to check its reaction; if the material has been previously colored, it is possible to check the resistance of the color; - to treat the edge of the material with a specific treatment (such as, for example, printing, embossing, resin finishing, tanning of leather and other) in order to check its resistance against the treatment;

- to associate a metallic material (for example a metal of an accessory such as a buckle, an eyelet or a ring) with the edge of the material in order to check the chemical effect thereof (for example oxidation).

Furthermore, some of the above mentioned tests can be performed in controlled environments so as to simulate the ageing of the element to be tested.

The main disadvantage of the laboratory tests carried out on the elements to be assembled to obtain the clothing product is that the results are not perfectly reliable, consistent and trustworthy, as they do not reproduce the real conditions of use of the clothing product. Actually, during the real use effects or defects may be detected which can not be reproduced by means of the above mentioned tests on the clothing product. A further disadvantage is that it is extremely difficult to reproduce in an accurate manner the movements of the human body so as to test the effects thereof on the elements of the clothing product. A further disadvantage is that it is impossible or anyway extremely difficult to reproduce a combination of stresses external to the human body in order to check their effects on the elements to be tested.

Furthermore, it is difficult, and almost impossible, to reproduce a combination of the movements of the human body and of external stresses in order to obtain results as much faithful as possible to that deriving from the real use of the clothing product.

A further disadvantage is that the tests carried out on the single mechanical components, such as for examples the zippers, the buttons or the flies, reproduce only examples of the real conditions of use thereof. Therefore, the effects which can be reproduced and the results which can be obtained through these tests can be also enormously discordant with respect to that obtained during the real use.

A further disadvantage is that often only the tests deemed as most relevant are performed, as the costs and the times increase for performing a plurality of single tests for all the elements of the clothing product; in this way, the effectiveness and the reliability of the results decreases.

For example, a bag is generally composed of 70 to 80 pieces which can be subjected to about 400 processing before obtaining the finished product; for more complex bags 120 pieces or more can be provided.

Therefore currently, in spite of the developments of the technology, it is a problem and it is necessary to obtain machines which allow to test the elements with which a clothing product is produced which reproduce in the most faithful manner the real conditions of use so as to obtain more reliable results. Summary of the Invention

An object of the present invention is to provide a machine which allows to test the elements with which at least one clothing product is realized, in order to obtain a more acceptable and reliable result with respect to the testing systems known, overcoming or reducing at least some of the above mentioned drawbacks.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a method which allows to test the elements with which at least one clothing product is realized in a more effective and efficient manner. These objectives and scopes are substantially obtained through a machine according to the claim 1 and through a method for the construction thereof according to the claim 33.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the invention provides for a machine for testing through repetitive cycles at least one clothing product finished, i.e. fully realized, and suitable to simulate in the most faithful manner a plurality of real conditions of use of at least one of said clothing product.

Within the scope of the present invention and of the attached claims, "elements with which a clothing product is obtained" should be understood as generically all the elements of which the clothing product can be composed, and therefore all the materials (such as for example plastics, metals, cardboard, fabrics, leather or other), the junctures (seams, glues, resins or the like), the mechanical reversible closures (such as for example zippers, snap closures, buttons or other), the decorative components (such as buckles, belts or laces, small chains or the like), or other else.

"Clothing product" should be advantageously understood as dresses (such as for example a T-shirt, a sweater, pants, an overcoat, a pair of socks, tight - fittings or the like) or any accessory (for example a bag, a handbag, a suitcase, a change purse, a rucksack or other else).

The machine according to the invention comprises, in one embodiment, advantageously and preferably anthropomorphic limbs, i.e. reproducing in the most faithful manner the limbs in the shapes, dimensions and proportions typical of a human body, at least partially movable so as to reproduce or to simulate at least some of the movements of the human body.

Clearly, "typical dimensions" should be understood as the indicative average dimensions, as they can vary also greatly from an individual to the other, according to the age or to strictly subjective characteristics.

Furthermore, "limbs" should be understood as the different parts of the human body mutually connected by means of articulations; for example, this term generically indicates the arms, the legs, the hands, the phalanxes of the fingers, the head and also - in order to simplify the description - the bust.

Advantageously, at least some of these anthropomorphic limbs are motorized by means of motorizations so as to simulate some movements of at least a part of the human body (such as for example walking, running or other) or some external stresses (such as for example vibrations due to traveling on public transport vehicles or other), see below.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the anthropomorphic limbs are shaped so as to reproduced at least a part of an anthropomorphic manikin, suitable to wear or catty at least a clothing product to be tested (dress or accessory), so as to simulate in the most faithful manner the effects of the movement of at least a part of a human body, also in combination with external stresses, on the same clothing product during real conditions of use.

For example, the manikin can sling on or over the shoulder or in the hand at least one accessory to be tested such as a bag, a hand bag or a suitcase, as during the real use.

The manikin can furthermore wear at least one dress so as to test the mechanical resistance and / or the wear thereof.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the manikin wears at least one dress and, in addition to this, it carries at least one accessory, so as to test a combination dress / accessory in order to test also the reciprocal effect on the mechanical resistance and / or on the wear. In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the machine provides for an air - conditioned cabin to house the anthropomorphic limbs, comprising adjusting devices for controlling the ambient conditions inside it (such as for example humidity, temperature, light irradiation or other), so as to test the clothing product on the base of ambient conditions which can be set by an operator.

It is also possible to simulate the behavior over the time or the ageing of the clothing product by varying through time the ambient conditions inside the air - conditioned cabin in a very simple and effective manner. The ambient conditions can actually affect also in a great manner the duration and the resistance of the clothing product used and can cause effects which currently can be hardly reproduced.

Furthermore, in an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, a mechanical arm is provided, with a plurality of degrees of freedom, provided with different gripping tools to test with repetitive cycles the juncturesor the mechanical closures of the finished clothing product, such as for example zippers, mechanical buttons, closures, flies or other else.

For the operation of the mechanical arm at least one work plane is advantageously provided, suitable to grip in a stable manner any clothing product finished and ready - to - use, according to the shape, the dimension and the rigidity of the clothing product.

The clothing product which can be tested by means of this mechanical arm is preferably an accessory such as a bag, a suitcase, a rucksack, a change purse or the like. The mechanical arm is advantageously provided inside the air - conditioned cabin in which the anthropomorphic manikin has been arranged, so as to obtain a machine suitable to perform a series of different tests in a simple and effective manner.

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for testing the elements with which at least one clothing product is realized, which provides for a phase in which these elements are assembled in order to obtain the finished clothing product, i.e. ready to use, and further phases suitable to reproduce the movement of a human body and / or external stresses in order to simulate the real use of the clothing product. In particular, one or more of the following phases can be provided:

- to move the anthropomorphic limbs in order to simulate the walking of a human body, by putting them, if necessary, into oscillation with respect to the vertical;

- to move the anthropomorphic limbs in order to simulate the running of a human body, by putting them, if necessary, into oscillation with respect to the vertical;

- to put into oscillation and / or vibration these anthropomorphic limbs with respect to the vertical in order to simulate travelling on a public transport vehicle (bus) of the user or to simulate the stresses to which the neckstrap of a bag is subjected;

- to move repeatedly in vertical a platform in order to simulate the resting of a bag or the like over it;

- to control ambient parameters in order to simulate different climatic conditions, varying them over the time if necessary. Furthermore, it is also possible to provide for a phase for testing repeatedly any mechanical reversible closure on the finished clothing product, so as to simulate the condition of real use thereof.

In this way it is possible to obtain more reliable results relevant to the real use of the mechanical closures, as also the effects are taken into consideration of the overall shape of the finished product and of the elements composing it.

It should be noted that the movements of the human body which can be simulated through the machine according to the invention can be different, providing for adequate motorizations to move the anthropomorphic limbs; therefore, the above mentioned movements are described only by way of non limiting example.

An advantage of an embodiment of the machine according to the present invention is the fact that the obtained results are highly reliable and faithful, as they are realized on the clothing product finished and ready to use; it is therefore possible to check and to test the effects resulting from the combination of different elements as they are assembled to form the single finished clothing product.

Another advantage of an embodiment is that it is possible to reproduce or to simulate a combination of movements of the human body to reproduce in the most faithful manner their real effect on the finished clothing product, such as for example the movement of the limbs together with their vibration to simulate walking or running so as to check the resistance of a bag slung over the shoulder, the gripping of a handle of a suitcase by a person running in order to test the resistance of the handle based on the mechanical stresses and the sweat or other.

A further advantage of an embodiment of the machine according to the present invention is that it is possible to reproduce in a very faithful manner various external stresses, also in combination with movements of the human body, in order to simulate with a high degree of faithfulness particular conditions of use of the clothing product. It is therefore possible to simulate real conditions of use particularly important for the resistance and the life of a specific clothing product, such as for example to simulate a travel inside a bus to test a bag slung over the shoulder or to test the manual gripping of the bag through a handle or other. A further advantage is that in some embodiments a highly versatile machine is provided, as it is suitable to verify the reciprocal effect of different clothing product during the use by testing at the same time more pieces of clothing together, for example by making the manikin wear at least one accessory (a bag) and a dress (a jacket).

Therefore, a machine and a method according to the present invention allow to perform modifications or corrections during the design stage of the clothing product so as to increase its resistance and duration of life.

Further advantageous characteristics and embodiments of the method and of the device according to the invention are indicated in the attached dependent claims and will be further described hereunder with reference to some non-limiting embodiments provided by way of example. Brief description of the drawings

The present invention can be better understood and its numerous objects and advantages shall be more apparent to those skilled in the art with reference to the accompanying schematic drawings, which show a non-limiting practical embodiment of the invention. In the drawing, figure 1 shows a machine according to an embodiment of the invention, comprising an anthropomorphic manikin and a work plane with a mechanical arm; figure 2 shows an axonometric view of the manikin of figure 1 ; figures 3 to 5 show side view of the manikin of figure 2 according to subsequent phases reproducing a movement thereof; figure 6 shows an axonometric enlarged view of another movement of the manikin of figure 2; figures 7 to 10 show two side views and respectively two front views of further movements of the manikin of figure 2; figures 11 and 12 show two enlarged sections of an anthropomorphic hand of the manikin of figure 2; figure 13 shows an axonometric view of the work plane with the mechanical arm of figure 1 ; figures 14 and 15 show enlarged axonometric views of the arm of figure 13 with different configurations; figures 16 and 17 show enlarged axonometric views of a detail of the work plane of figure 13 in different configurations. Detailed description of some preferred embodiments of the invention

In the drawings, in which the same reference numbers indicate the same parts in all the figures, in an embodiment a machine according to the invention is indicated with the number 1 (figure 1) and comprises an anthropomorphic manikin 3, to perform a first series of tests or types of tests for example on a first bag C1 to be tested, and a mechanical arm 5 to perform a second series of tests or types of tests for example on a second bag C2 to be tested. The anthropomorphic manikin 3 and the mechanical arm 5 are arranged on a base

23 inside an air - conditioned cabin 7.

It should be noted that the machine 1 , in the configuration described here comprising the anthropomorphic manikin 3 and the mechanical arm 5, is particularly versatile and effective, as it is suitable to perform tests or checks at the same time on the materials, the junctures, the mechanical closures and / or on the decorative components of the bags C1 and C2. It is also possible to provide only one of these components or groups (manikin 3 and mechanical arm 5) or a different number of these components or groups inside the cabin 7, for example two mechanical arms and three manikins, according to particular construction or use requirements.

Furthermore, the manikin 3 and the mechanical arm 5 are particularly suitable to test an accessory such as for example a bag, a hand bag, a suitcase or the like, It is also possible for the manikin 3 to be used for testing one or more pieces of clothing, if necessary in combination with one or more accessories, so as to simulate different real conditions of use.

The air - conditioned containment cabin 7 is used to control and to simulate the specific ambient conditions of use of the clothing product. It is also possible to simulate the behavior of the bag C1 or C2 by providing variation of such climatic conditions over the time. It has been actually proved that the ambient conditions or the variations thereof can greatly affect the duration of a piece of clothing, an accessory or generally a clothing product, for example involving weakening and sometimes breakage of the juncturesrealized through glues or resins on delicate fabrics or leather. Figure 2 shows in greater detail the manikin 3 comprising anthropomorphic mechanical limbs, i.e. limbs reproducing the various parts of the human body, realized with an anthropomorphic bust 9, on which an anthropomorphic head 11 is fixed; a pair of anthropomorphic arms right 13 and respectively left 15 hinged on a respective shoulder of the bust 9 by means of a first rotation joint 9A and respectively 9B suitable to simulate the articulation of each shoulder; a pair of anthropomorphic legs right 17 and respectively left 19 hinged on a respective hip of the bust 9 by means of a second rotation joint 9C and respectively 9D suitable to simulate the articulation of each hip. The arms 13 and 15 are hinged each to a respective forearm 13A and

15A by means of a third rotation joint 13B and respectively 15B to simulate a respective elbow.

Furthermore, an anthropomorphic hand 14 and 16 is hinged at the end of each forearm 13A and respectively 15A by means of a fourth rotation joint 14A and respectively 16A to simulate the articulation of a respective wrist; this hand 14, 16 can be in turn obtained through movable elements 14B and respectively 16 B which simulate the phalanxes of the fingers, see in particular figures 11 and 12.

The rotation joints 9A-9D, 13B, 15B, 14A and 16A can be cylindrical joints or spherical joints or other else, according to the movements to be imparted to the respective limb.

The manikin 3 furthermore comprises a support platform 20 anchored on the pelvic area and connected in a movable manner to a tubular support 21 fixed to the base 23 which is in turn fixed on the ground. In this way the manikin 3 has a straight configuration.

The first hand bag C1 here illustrated only by way of example as possible clothing product to be tested is of the type comprising a bag and a shoulder strap and is arranged on the shoulder of the manikin (the shoulder strap can be fixed for example by means of a lace near the rotation joint 9A). However, the bag C1 can be arranged in a different position to simulate another configuration of real use, such as for example on the shoulder (i.e. with the shoulder strap passing around the neck) or gripped by the hand 14 (by means of a handle, not shown in the figure for the sake of simplicity) or other else. Furthermore, in figure 2 it should be noted a platform 25 vertically slidable and arranged laterally with respect to the right leg 17. The platform can be coated with different types of materials to simulate different types of surfaces for resting the bag C1 , such as for example a floor, a sidewalk, a street, a piece of furniture or other.

It should be noted that this manikin 3 can be realized in different manners according to particular construction or use requirements, for example it can be realized with only one arm and / or only one leg and / or without head.

Furthermore, it is also possible to provide the manikin with a different configuration according to particular uses or clothing products to be tested, for example it can be realized in sitting configuration or other else. Furthermore, it can be realized in different dimensions, for example for testing clothing products of different sizes (man / woman / child).

In figure 2 the motorizations are schematized which, in the embodiment here described, comprise a first motorization M1 housed inside the bust 9 and connected to the arms 13 and 15 so as to make them rotate or oscillate by means of the first rotation joint 9A and respectively 9B and a second motorization M2 also housed inside the bust 9 and connected to the legs 17 and 19 to make them rotate or oscillate by means of the second rotation joint 9C and respectively 9D.

The motorization M1 can be provided with a direct mechanical coupling with one of the two arms 13 and 15 and an adequate mechanism for the deviation of the movement so as to connect itself to the other arm in order to realize opposite and contemporaneous movements for the two arms. The same occurs for the second motorization M2. It is clearly also possible to provide a motorization for each arm 13, 15 and each leg 17, 19 so as to obtain independent movements.

A third motorization M3 is housed inside the base 23 or anyway in other position outside the manikin 3 to translate vertically the platform 25 according to repetitive cycles so as to carry it repeatedly into contact with the hand bag C1.

Figures 3 and 5 show a side view of the manikin 3 according to subsequent movement phases suitable to reproduce a person walking or running.

Advantageously, the following are provided: a first phase in which the right arm 13 and the left leg 19 are made rotate forward (figure 3) whilst the left arm 15 and the right leg 17 are made rotate backward; a second phase in which the arms and the legs 13, 17, 15, and 19 are carried nearly in vertical (figure 4); and a third phase in which the right arm 13 and the left leg 19 are made rotate backward whilst the left arm 15 and the right leg 17 are made rotate forward (figure 5) around the respective axis of rotation. Approximately, to simulate a person walking it is possible to provide for the arms 13, 15 and the legs 17, 19 to be rotated by about +/- 30° with respect to a vertical axis X1 and with an oscillation frequency of about 1 Hz; to simulate a person running it is possible to increase both the inclination and the oscillation frequency of arms and legs. Figure 6 shows an enlarged axonometric view, in which the right leg 17 is rotated forward about the axis X3 and the platform 25 is lifted (arrow F3) into contact with the bag C1 by means of a telescopic supporting tubular element 25A. Furthermore, in this figure it should be noted how it is possible to provide an outer creeping or contact surface 17A of the leg 17 , replaced, and realized with a preset material or surface roughness, so as to simulate and to test the effect of the creeping or contact with the part of the bag C1 facing the leg 17. The creeping surface can be replaceable, and accessories can be provided with stripping surfaces characterized by different mechanical characteristics, for example different roughness or abrasive characteristics. It is also possible for the manikin to advantageously wear a pair of pants alternatively to the creeping surface 17A to test simultaneously the rubbing resistance both of the bag C1 and of the pants.

Figures 7 and 10 show possible movements which can be realized by means of a fourth motorization M4 (visible also in figure 2). In particular, it is possible to realize a forward and backward oscillation of the bust 9 by an angle α e - α with respect to the vertical X1 (figures 7 and 8) and / or a side oscillation by an angle β e - β with respect to the vertical X1 (figures 9 and 10).

Advantageously, thanks to these oscillations it is possible further to increase the degree of simulation of walking or running, by providing an angle α of about 30° and an angle β of about 15° simultaneously to the movement of the arms 13, 15 and of the legs 17, 19 to reproduce the kinetic reaction which act in the bag C1 (filled and heavy during the test) and which are the main responsible for the breakage of the internal lining, of the seams, of the shoulder strap, of the handles, etc. It is also possible to realize a vertical oscillation or vibration movement of the bust 9 by means of the fourth motorization M4 so as to simulate particular conditions of movement or stress of the human body.

For example it is possible to simulate the standing of a person in a public transport vehicle (bus or train) simulating the irregularities of the asphalt and the braking and acceleration of the vehicle along the path, providing this vertical vibration of the bust 9 according to variable frequencies and providing simultaneously the oscillations with respect to the vertical of the bust 9. In this way it is possible to simulate a real condition of use particularly important for the resistance of the shoulder strap of the bag C1 , checking the resistance of the shoulder strap and of the junctures which fix it to the body of the bag C1.

The fourth motorization M4 can be advantageously suitable to give further degrees of freedom to the bust 9, such as for example six degrees of freedom by realizing a translation from the right to the left and a translation forward and backward of the bust 9 around its vertical axis X1.

This fourth motorization M4 can be realized with one or more mechanical motors suitable to make the platform 20 and the bust 9 vibrate or rotate by the given angle.

It should be noted that the rotation joints 13B, 15B which simulate the elbows can be of the removable type by means of adequate motorizations - not shown in the figure for the sake of simplicity - or preferably manually movable, so as to adjust the inclination of the forearm 13A, 15A with respect to the arm

13 and respectively 15 according to specific configuration of use, such as for example to grip the handle of a bag with the hand 14 by maintaining the arm bent.

All the above mentioned motorizations M1 to M4 can be furthermore realized with any motor suitable for the purpose, for example a stepper motor or a brushless motor or other; it is also possible to provide a single motor with adequate transmission systems for two or more of these motorizations. It is also possible to use motors of different nature, for example hydraulic motors.

In particular, the electric stepper motors are particularly suitable to realize the motorizations M1 to M4, as they realize actuations in both the directions of rotation and are sufficiently precise without the need of using position or speed sensors. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is also provided an electronic junction box U (see figure 2) to control the motorizations M1 to M4 which can provide for a power button Ul to control the power of the machine and respective buttons UI ₁ U2, U3, and U4 to actuate different simulations already programmed and stored, such as for example a first button U1 to actuate the walking simulation, a second button U2 to actuate the running simulation and a third button U3 to actuate a simulation of a travel on a public transport vehicle and a fourth button to actuate the third motorization M3 suitable to move vertically the platform 25 in a repetitive manner, if the product to be tested is the bag Cl

In this way it is possible to realize an electronic junction box particularly simple and which can be used intuitively. It is clearly also possible to provide different control systems for the manikin 3, such as for example a manual setting of each parameter for each movable limb. In some embodiments, the air - conditioned cabin 3 comprises control and adjusting devices - not shown in the figure for the sake of simplicity - suitable to adjust for example the humidity (indicatively between 5% and 95%) and / or the temperature (indicatively between - 2O⁰C and +6O⁰C) and / or the lighting irradiation (adjusting the light radiations coming from an adequate source, not shown) and / or the composition of the atmosphere (for example to simulate the atmospheric pollution).

Figures 11 and 12 show respectively two vertical sections of an embodiment for the hand 14 (and in the same manner the hand 16).

In particular, in this embodiment the hand 14 is realized with three elements or phalanxes 14A, 14B, and 14C hinged to each other and to a palm 14D by means of rotating joints 14E₁ 14F and respectively 14G so as to effectively simulate the phalanxes of the fingers of the human hand.

In particular, it is possible to provide more series of separate phalanxes 14A, 14B, and 14C to simulate each finger of the hand or, preferably, it is possible to provide only one series of phalanxes 14A, 14B, and respectively 14C so as to simulate all the fingers of a hand without decreasing the effectiveness of the simulation, the thumb (not shown in the figure for the sake of simplicity) of the hand can be realized fixed and removable on the palm 14D. The movement of the phalanxes 14A₁ 14B, and 14C of the hand 14 can be realized by means of one or more flat springs 14M passing through them and suitable to maintain in normally open position the phalanxes; a metallic cable 14N, also passing through the phalanxes, can be used to close manually the phalanxes if necessary.

In particular, the cable 14N can be fixed at one own end to the outmost phalanx 14C₁ whilst the other end can be arranged on the manikin 3 so as it can be easily stretched by the user, to realize the closing of the hand 14 with the necessary force. In this way it is possible to obtain a machine which simulates a human hand in a practical, effective and economical manner for the purposes of the present invention; actually, it is possible to maintain the hand closed with a force sufficient to hold a handle of a bag to be tested (varying the tension of the cable 14N which adjusts the closing force), guaranteeing at the same time an adequate simulation of a real hand.

Clearly, it is also possible for the phalanxes 14A, 14B₁ and 14C to be movable manually so that an operator can open or close the hand 14.

Advantageously, it can be provided a coating glove - not shown in the figures for the sake of simplicity - for the phalanxes 14A, 14B, and 14C of the hand 14 or 17, the glove being soaked with a liquid suitable to reproduce the human sweat so as to simulate also the effect of sweating on the handles of a bag or suitcase; the liquid can be also sprayed on the glove before or after having applied it onto the hand.

In an evolved embodiment of the present invention, it is also possible to provide for a hydraulic circuit - not shown in the figures for the sake of simplicity - to supply the coating glove with a liquid which simulates the human sweat. This circuit can comprise a tank for the liquid arranged inside the bust 9 in fluid connection with the glove by means of a small tube arranged along the arm and a mechanical pump to supply the liquid in the glove. This circuit can be advantageously activated by providing a fifth button (not shown in the figure for the sake of simplicity) on the electronic junction box U, so as to supply in a continuous and gradual manner the liquid to the glove (in order to simulate a constant sweating during the tests). The manikin 3 can therefore be used to test on the bag C1 according to a plurality of movements of the human body and / or external conditions, also in combination with each other; in the following some of them are indicated purely by way of example: - behavior of the lining (in particular of the seams or of the material of the lining), of the seams or of the material of the bag C1 adequately filled during walking, running or during other movements of the body or external stresses;

- behavior of the leather of the bag C1 following to stripping with the side of the user during a movement of the body; - behavior of the bag C1 when it is put onto or lifted up again from a rigid support plane;

- behavior of the bag C1 slung over the shoulder following to repeated sudden tugs;

- behavior of the junctures subject to traction and / or torsion, such as for example by engaging the handles of the bag C1 to a hand 14 or 16 and tugging at it, also in combination with human sweating if necessary;

- behavior of the elements of the bag C1 according to particular or variable ambient conditions.

Figure 13 shows the mechanical arm 5 which, in this embodiment, is an arm of a robot presenting six degrees of freedom and is realized with a support base 5A rotatable with respect to a vertical axis X5 and onto which the arm 5 is arranged composed by two portions of arm 5B and 5C. The portion of arm 5B is articulated to the base 5A around an axis of rotation X6 and to the portion of arm 5C around an axis of rotation X7. The axis X6 and X7 can be substantially horizontal.

A plurality of motorizations are suitable to actuate the movements of the mechanical arm 5 and comprise, in the embodiment here described and illustrated in figure, a fifth motorization M5 suitable to rotate the support base 5A around the vertical axis X5, a sixth motorization M6 suitable to rotate the first portion of arm 5B with respect to the base 5A around the axis X6 and a seventh motorization M7 suitable to rotate the second portion of arm 5C with respect to the portion 5B around the axis X7.

Further motorizations can be clearly provided to realize further and different mechanized movements, such as for example an eighth and a ninth motorization - not shown in figure for the sake of simplicity - to realize the rotations around the axis R8 and R9 (figures 14 and 15) or a tenth motorization suitable to realize a rotation of the portion of arm 5C around its own axis. In this latter case it is therefore provided a mechanical arm 5 with six motorized degrees of freedom (rotations around the axis X5 - X9 and the further rotation of the portion of arm 5C around itself).

At the free end of the portion of arm 5C at least one gripping system 6 is provided, suitable to grip elements of the clothing product to be tested, for example the mechanical closures to be tested and already assembled on the finished clothing product.

Figure 14 shows an embodiment of the gripping system 6 comprising a circular plate 6A rotatable around two axis X8 and X9 mutually perpendicular by means of an adequate rotating joint 6B. On the plate 6A different tools can be mounted, suitable for gripping specific components to be tested and specific tests to be carried out.

Figure 14 shows the plate 6A onto which a cable or a rigid rod 6F is fixed, presenting a grab 6C at its free end for the gripping of a cursor of a zipper. Figure 15 shows the plate 6A on which an accessory is fixed, realized with a U - shaped support rod 52A inside which there are slidable the ends of two rods 52B suitable to grip a fly or closure Ch of a third bag C3.

The above mentioned gripping systems 6 are described only by way of example, and they can be produced in a different manner according to particular needs, for example it is possible to link the cursor of a zipper to the arm 5C by means of a cable. Advantageously, the mechanical arm 5 provides for a rest system 50, suitable to grip in a stable manner different types of finished clothing product according to the shape, dimension and rigidity thereof.

Figures 16 and 17 show in particular the rest system 50, comprising an upper plane 51 with rectilinear slots 51A and vertically slidable along columns 55 and a lower plane 53 positioned below the upper plane 51 and provided with rectilinear guides 53A in correspondence of the slots 51A; a pair of telescopic gripping cylinders 57A and 57B is slidable inside each guide 53A and passing through the slots 51A so as to grip in a stable manner a suitcase C4 or C5 (rigid or semi rigid) arranged on the upper plane 51. The upper plane 51 can slide vertically by means of an adequate motorization or manually.

The telescopic cylinders 57A and 57B are formed by an inner metallic part and by an outer part slidable on the inner part made of soft rubber, so as to give the necessary friction to hold the suitcase C4 or C5 and at the same time not to damage the surface thereof.

The height of the upper plane 51 and the height with which the telescopic cylinders project from the same upper plane 51 can be adjusted so as to guarantee the optimum support according to the shape of the suitcase C4 or C5. More in particular, the lifting of the plane 51 allows to leave the cylinders

57 not used for the gripping of the suitcase C4 or C5 below the same plane 57, so as not to hinder the movement of the arm 5 during the execution of a test.

It is clear that the resting system 50 described above is particularly suitable for gripping and holding rigid or semi rigid pieces of clothing such as a bag or a suitcase.

According to another embodiment, it is possible to provide for a resting system comprising a metallic frame - not shown in the figure for the sake of simplicity - onto which a clothing product is fixed by means of magnets of adequate dimensions. This frame is preferably adjustable in height and dimension, so as to fit the specific clothing product to be tested; therefore, it is particularly adequate for flexible and deformable pieces of clothing, such as for example a handbag or a suitcase in soft leather or the like.

The movement of the mechanical arm 5 can be realized through a system which allows to store and reproduce continuously the movement imparted during a training phase.

In this case, the electronic junction box U can be provided with an actuating element (such as a button or a joystick) to actuate the training phase of the mechanical arm 5 and a seventh button for actuating the movement of the arm 5 previously stored.

The mechanical arm 5 advantageously comprises a control system for controlling the movement suitable to adjust the force applied on the bag or on a component thereof (such as for example the cursor of a zipper) by means of adequate sensors, not shown in the figures for the sake of simplicity. In particular, the control system for controlling the movement is suitable to block and repeat part of the movement, if the force applied is too high (for example when the cursor of a zipper is stuck during opening), so as to facilitate the unblocking thereof. It is understood that what is illustrated purely represents possible non- limiting embodiments of the invention, which may vary in forms and arrangements without departing from the scope of the concept on which the invention is based. Any reference numerals in the appended claims are provided for the sole purpose of facilitating the reading thereof in the light of the description hereinbefore and the accompanying drawings and do not in any way limit the scope of protection.

Claims

1) A machine for testing, through repetitive cycles, at least one finished clothing product (C1-C5), so as to simulate a plurality of conditions of use of said at least one clothing product (C1-C5). 2) The machine as claimed in claim 1 , characterized in that said at least one clothing product (C1-C5) is a piece of clothing, such as for example a T- shirt, a sweater, pants, an overcoat, a pair of socks or the like, and / or an accessory, for example a bag, a hand bag, a suitcase, a change purse, a rucksack or other else. 3) The machine as claimed in at least one of the previous claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one anthropomorphic limb (5A, 5B, 5C; 9; 11 ; 13; 13A; 14; 15; 15A; 16; 17; 19).

4) The machine as claimed in claim 3, characterized in that said at least one anthropomorphic limb (5A, 5B, 5C; 9; 11 ; 13; 13A; 14; 15; 15A; 16; 17; 19) is movable so as to reproduce at least one movement of a human limb and / or at least one external stress so as to simulate real conditions of use of said at least one clothing product (C1-C5).

5) The machine as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises an anthropomorphic manikin (3) suitable to wear or carry said at least one clothing product (C1-C5).

6) The machine as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that said manikin (3) comprises at least one anthropomorphic bust (9) and one anthropomorphic limb (13, 15, 17, 19) articulated to said manikin.

7) The machine as claimed in claim 6, characterized in that said manikin (3) at least two anthropomorphic limbs constituted by an arm (13, 13A; 15, 15A) and by a leg (17, 19) articulated to said bust (9).

8) The machine as claimed in one or more of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that said manikin comprises one or more outer stripping or contact surfaces (17A), said outer surface or surfaces can be replaced and realized with different materials so as to test the effect of the stripping or of the contact with said at least one clothing product (C1) during the use.

9) The machine as claimed in one or more of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that said at least one anthropomorphic limb (13, 15, 17, 19) is connected to the bust of said anthropomorphic manikin by means of an articulation joint (9A, 9B, 9C, 9D) and in that it is provided a respective motorization (M1 , M2) to move said anthropomorphic limb (13, 15, 17, 19) with respect to the bust (9).

10) The machine as claimed in one or more of claims 5 to 9, characterized in that said anthropomorphic manikin comprises at least an anthropomorphic arm (13; 15) hinged on a respective shoulder of said anthropomorphic bust (9) by means of a rotation joint (9A; 9B) which simulates the articulation of a shoulder.

11) The machine as claimed in claim 10, characterized in that it comprises one motorization (M 1) which controls a movement of said anthropomorphic arm around the bust (9) of the anthropomorphic manikin (3).

12) The machine as claimed in one or more of claims 6 to 11, characterized in that said manikin comprises at least an anthropomorphic leg (17, 19), hinged to a hip of said anthropomorphic bust by means of a rotation joint which simulates the articulation of a hip. 13) The machine as claimed in claim 12, characterized in that it comprises a motorization (M2) which controls an oscillation movement of said leg around the bust of the manikin.

14) The machine as claimed in claim 10 or 11, characterized in that said at least one anthropomorphic arm comprises an anthropomorphic forearm (13A; 15A) hinged to the anthropomorphic arm (13; 15) by means of a rotation joint (13B; 15B) which simulates the articulation of an elbow.

15) The machine as claimed in claim 14, characterized in that said anthropomorphic arm is motorized and in that said anthropomorphic forearm can be adjusted angularly with respect to the anthropomorphic arm by means of a manual adjustment.

16) The machine as claimed in one or more of claim 10, 11 , 14 or 15, characterized in that said anthropomorphic manikin comprises at least one anthropomorphic hand (14; 16) hinged to the end of an anthropomorphic forearm (13A; 15A) by means of a rotation joint (14A; 16A) which simulates the articulation of a wrist.

17) The machine as claimed in claim 16, characterized in that said anthropomorphic hand comprises at least one movable element or anthropomorphic phalanx (14A; 14B; 16B) to simulate the phalanxes of the fingers of said hand (14; 16). 18) The machine as claimed in claim 17, characterized in that said movable element or phalanx of the anthropomorphic hand is motorized so as to simulate a closing and opening movement of the hand.

19) The machine as claimed in one or more of claims 5 to 18, characterized in that said anthropomorphic manikin (3) is supported by a supporting element (20) provided with motorized movement according to at least one degree of freedom.

20) The machine as claimed in claim 19, characterized in that said supporting element is realized and controlled to impart to said anthropomorphic manikin one or more of the movements chosen from the group comprising: a lateral oscillation movement; a backward - forward oscillation movement; a sussultatory movement according to an about vertical direction; a translation movement.

21) The machine as claimed in one or more of claims 5 to 20, characterized by comprising a lateral platform (25) vertically slidable and arranged laterally with respect to said anthropomorphic manikin (9) so as to give a support to said clothing product (C1), said slidable platform (25) can be preferably coated with different types of materials so as to simulate different types of resting surfaces. 22) The machine as claimed in one or more of the previous claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one mechanical arm (5) with a plurality of degrees of freedom and which can be provided with at least one gripping tool in order to test with repetitive cycles said clothing product (C2; C3; C4; C5) or parts thereof, such as for example zippers, mechanical buttons or other.

23) The machine as claimed in claim 22, characterized in that said mechanical arm comprises interchangeable gripping tools.

24) The machine as claimed in claim 22 or 23, characterized in that to said mechanical arm engaging members are associated, suitable to grip stably said at least one clothing product (C2; C3; C4; C5), according to the shape, the dimension and the rigidity of said at least one clothing product (C2; C3; C4; C5), said engaging members being preferably adjustable.

25) The machine as claimed in at least one of the previous claims, characterized in that it comprises an air - conditioned cabin (7) suitable to simulate or reproduce ambient conditions of use of said at least one clothing product (C 1-C5).

26) The machine as claimed in claim 5 and 25, characterized in that said manikin (3) is arranged in said air - conditioned cabin (7). 27) The machine as claimed in claim 22 and 25, characterized in that said mechanical arm (5) is arranged in said air - conditioned cabin (7).

28) The machine as claimed in one or more of claims 25 to 27, characterized in that said air - conditioned cabin (7) comprises adjusting devices for adjusting at least one parameter chosen from the group comprising: the humidity, the temperature, the light irradiation, the ultraviolet irradiation, the infrared irradiation.

29) The machine as claimed in one or more of the previous claims, characterized in that it comprises a system suitable to supply a liquid which reproduces the human sweat so as to simulate the effects thereof on a part (14; 16) of said at least one finished product (C1-C5).

30) The machine as claimed in claim 29, characterized in that it comprises a supply system for supply a liquid which reproduces the human sweat comprising a glove for an anthropomorphic hand associated with an anthropomorphic manikin, to said glove being fed said artificial sweat so as to simulate the effect of the sweating of said hand (14; 16).

31) A method for testing elements (the materials; the junctures; the reversible mechanical closures; the decorative components or other else) with which a clothing product (C1-C3) is realized, characterized in that it provides a phase in which these elements are assembled to realize at least one finished clothing product (C1-C3) and further phases suitable to reproduce the movement of a human body and / or external stresses so as to simulate the real use of said at least one clothing product (C1-C3).

32) A method as claimed in claim 31 , characterized in that said clothing product is arranged on an anthropomorphic manikin and the anthropomorphic manikin and / or one or more anthropomorphic limbs (13; 13A; 14; 15; 15A; 16; 17; 19) of said manikin are moved, on which said clothing product is applied, so as to simulate dynamic conditions of use of said clothing product.

33) A method as claimed in claim 31 or 32, characterized by maintaining said clothing product in a controlled ambient so as to simulate different climatic conditions of use, imposing time variations to said climatic conditions, if necessary.

34) A method as claimed in claim 31 , 32 or 33, characterized by simulating the effect of the human sweating on said clothing product. 35) A method according to one of claims 31 to 34, characterized by comprising at least one phase for testing mechanically with repeated stresses components of said clothing product.

36) A method as claimed in one or more of claims 31 to 35, characterized by testing simultaneously two or more clothing product (C1-C5), such as for example at least one dress and one accessory, in order to simulate and check their reciprocal effect during the real use, applying them onto an anthropomorphic manikin.