WO2009082790A1

WO2009082790A1 - Solid cleansing composition comprising oil from plants belonging to the genus bactris and/or mauritia

Info

Publication number: WO2009082790A1
Application number: PCT/BR2007/000368
Authority: WO
Inventors: Helyde Albuquerque Marinho; Maria Rosa LOZANO BORRÁS; Paulo Roberto Castro Da Costa; Sônia Maria PATRICIO BRAGA DOS SANTOS; Bruno Olimpio Galaxe; Jonathas WELLINGTON ALVES DE SÁ
Original assignee: Instituto Nacional De Pesquisa Da Amazônia - Inpa
Priority date: 2007-12-28
Filing date: 2007-12-28
Publication date: 2009-07-09
Also published as: BRPI0721325B1; BRPI0721325A2

Abstract

The present invention discloses a cleansing composition, specially a soap composition, for the care of the skin, with hydrating and cleaning properties, comprising as main actives extract of Bactris gasipaes H. B. K. and / or Mauritia flexuosa.

Description

SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING PLANT EXTRACTS AND PROCESS FOR

PRODUCING THE SAME

Field of the Invention

The present invention discloses a cleansing composition, specially a solid soap composition, for the care of the skin, with hydrating and cleaning properties, comprising as main actives extract of Bactris gasipaes HBK. and/or Mauritia flexuosa, as well as a process for its production.

Background of the invention

Soaps are fatty acids salts produced by the reaction of animal fat (sebum) and/or vegetable oils (coconut oil, babacu oil, etc) with potassium or sodium hydroxide. They are included in a group intended for cleaning called detergent (from the latin, detergere, meaning 'to clean¹). Soaps or soap bars are fats added to bases responsible for the saponification or hydrolysis, producing a mass, used in skin cleansing.

Soap compositions comprise, in addition to detergents, other substances, which have specific applications in our bodies imparting pleasant color and fragrances to the soaps.

When soaps contact water, clear solutions, with foaming ability, are formed. The detergent present in the soap is responsible for the foam produced, considered a colloidal dispersion, where a great volume of air is dispersed in a small amount of liquid (clearer solutions), forming fused bubbles. The walls of these bubbles are formed of very thin liquid films.

When in contact with the foam bubbles, white light (solar or light bulb) suffers multiple reflections. But, in each of the several points of the bubble surface the reflected light remains white. As the bubble walls are too thin, after several transmissions, light would have passed through a small length of the liquid and this is not enough to produce a different color. Therefore, even if the soap is colored, the foam will always be white. Saponification

Saponification is the chemical reaction resulting from the combination of oil or fat with an alkali in water. The heat produced in mixing the oils and fats to an alkali in water is enough to start the chemical reaction. The ingredients are mixed, interact and transformed into a new product. This mixture will be continuously and slowly stirred until take on weight.

The consumer demands products that offer additional benefits, such as relaxing, energizing or moisturizing properties, having its roots in the bathtub and shower among several new cleaning products, confirming a holistic trend, which gained strength in the last few years.

A soap, in order to be considered pleasant, must be soft, and when touched gently, one must perceive its smoothness. When fresh, the soap absorbs moisture in little drops, leaving its surface wet. These are the main features that indicate its high level of glycerin. Cleaning Agents

The main cleaning agents are soaps, detergents and solvents. Soap is the most popular cleaning agent, but many synthetic detergents are also used, being called as soaps that leaves the skin dry. Other ones have a creamy base that does not leave the skin dry. Some liquid soaps leave the skin dry, while others keep it moist.

Bactris gasipaes is a species of palm native to the tropical forests of the

South and Central America. It is a palm which fruit is a drupe with an edible pulp surrounding the single seed, 4-6 cm long and 3-5 cm broad. The rind (epicarp) of this wild palm can be red, yellow, or orange when the fruit is ripe depending on the variety of the palm. B. gasipaes is well known by the native populations where it usually grows up, and they having been used for centuries as food.

They frequently eat the fruit stewed in salted water. However, it may be peeled and dressed with salt and honey, used to make compotes and jellies, or also used to make flour and edible oil. Because the huge importance of β. gasipaes for the native populations, there are numerous common names for this plant in several languages and many countries such as peach-palm or pewa, pejibaye, tembe, pupunheira, and pupunha.

The Moriche Palm, Mauritia flexuosa, also known as the lte Palm, burϊti, or aguaje, is a palm tree. It grows in and near swamps and other wet areas in tropical South America.

The Moriche Palm fruit is edible with a high vitamin C content and used to make juice, jam, ice cream, and a fermented "wine". An oil high in vitamin A is extracted from the pulp and is frequently used to treat burns because of its soothing qualities. This tree is important to several bird species, such as the Red-bellied Macaw, Sulphury Flycatcher and Moriche Oriole, which use it for nesting and food.

The patent literature contains some documents disclosing Mauritia flexuosa and/or Bactris gasipaes.

Document WO 06/120646 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising terpenone for alleviating the signs of skin ageing. Although it discloses the use of Mauritia flexuosa in one composition it does not associate its use to the antioxidant activity. The present invention differs from the prior art due to the fact that it is a cleansing composition, and not an anti-ageing cream, and the extract of Mauritia flexuosa is the main active of the composition, in an amount higher than previously described.

Document WO 99/64029 discloses plant extracts from Bactris balanoidea useful in pharmaceutical compositions to treat several diseases such as diabetes, acquired immunodeficiency syndrome, influenza, common cold symptoms, pulmonary emphysema, bronchitis, poliomyelitis, macular degeneration, cancer, gingivitis, dermatitis, hair loss, hepatitis, genital herpes, papilloma, and asthma. The present invention differs from the prior art in that it does not disclose a cosmetic composition comprising oils extracted from Mauritia flexuosa and/or Bactris gasipaes as main active agents.

Document WO 05/118759 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising palm extracts for the skin, wherein the palm extracts are olein or palm oil. The present invention differs from the prior art in that it does not disclose a cosmetic composition comprising oils extracted from Mauhtia flexuosa and/or Bactris gasipaes as main active agents.

Therefore, it can be seen that the prior art does not teach nor suggests the use of cosmetic compositions, specially liquid and solid soap compositions, comprising extracts from Mauritia flexuosa and/or Bactris gasipaes as main active agents.

Objectives of the Invention

It is an objective of the invention a solid cleansing composition comprising: a) from 45% w/w to 70% w/w of surfactants; b) from 1% w/w to 15% w/w of a plant oil comprising oil from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia; and c) water. In a preferred embodiment, the plant oil belongs to the species Bactris gasipaes H.B.K and/or Mauritia flexuosa, and the surfactants are chosen from the group comprising anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants.

It is a further objective of the invention a process for producing a cleansing composition comprising the steps of: a) preparing an oil phase comprising a plant oil comprising oil from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia; b) preparing an aqueous phase comprising the surfactants; c) addition of the oil phase of a) in the aqueous phase of b) at a temperature higher than about 40⁰C; d) addition of the emulsion of c) into a soap base.

In a preferred embodiment, the emulsion formed in step c) is formed by a Low Energy Emulsion process.

Detailed Description of the Invention The following examples are intended solely to exemplify some embodiment of the many existent ways of performing the invention, and therefore are to be understood as not limiting the present invention.

The expression "Liquid cleansing composition" is to be understood as any compositions useful for the cleaning of any part of the body such as skin, hair, nails. It also encompasses several forms such as emulsions, dispersions, solutions and can be presented in several products such as liquid and solid soaps.

Plant Oils

The plant oils useful in the present invention are chosen from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia.

The plant oils are preferably extracted from the fruits, wherein the extraction process is according to the method for continuous extractions at controlled temperature and the extraction must be performed in the absence of light. The resulting oils contained a high amount of carotenoids.

In a preferred embodiment, the plants are Bactris gasipaes H. B. K. and/or Mauritia flexuosa, and are present in an amount of from 1% w/w to 15% w/w.

In a more preferred embodiment, the cleansing composition is a solid soap comprising 3% w/w of Bactris gasipaes H. B. K. and 3% w/w Mauritia flexuosa, and also a liquid soap comprising 2% w/w of Bactris gasipaes H. B. K. and 2% w/w Mauritia flexuosa.

One differential is the use of plant products, especially from the Amazon region, which imparts a greater absorption and penetration, leaving the skin smooth and with elasticity, protecting from free radicals.

Surfactant

The surfactants useful in the present invention are chosen from the group comprising anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants. Examples of each class are detailed below. a) Anionic Surfactants The anionic surfactant may comprise, wholly or predominantly, a C8-15 linear alkyl benzene sulphonate. Primary alkyl or alkenyl sulphate in which the alkyl or alkenyl chain has of 8 to 18 carbon atoms especially 10 to 14 carbon atoms and a solubilising cation, is also commercially significant as an anionic surfactant and may be used in this invention, olefin sulphonates; alkane sulphonates; dialkyl sulphosuccinates; and fatty acid ester sulphonates. One or more soaps of fatty acids may also be included. Examples are sodium soaps derived from the fatty acids from coconut oil, beef tallow, sunflower or hardened rapeseed oil. These may be formed by adding fatty acid and a base such as sodium carbonate to a mixture which is used to form the surfactant-rich base particles. b) Cationic Surfactants

Cationic surfactants that may be used include quaternary ammonium salts of the general formula: R₁R₂R₃R₄N⁺ X^" wherein the R groups are long or short hydrocarbyl chains, typically alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or ethoxylated alkyl groups, and X is a solubilising anion (for example, compounds in which Ri is a C₈-C₂₂ alkyl group, preferably a Cs-Cio or C12-C1₄ alkyl group, R₂ is a methyl group, and R₃ and R₄, which may be the same or different, are methyl or hydroxyethyl groups); and cationic esters (for example, choline esters). c) Non-ionic Surfactants

Nonionic surfactants that may be used include the primary and secondary alcohol ethoxylates, especially the C₈-C_2O aliphatic alcohols ethoxylated with an average of from 1 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, and more especially the C₁₀-C₁₅ primary and secondary aliphatic alcohols ethoxylated with an average of from 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol. Non-ethoxylated nonionic surfactants include alkylpolyglycosides, glycerol monoethers, and polyhydroxyamides (glucamide). d) Amphoteric and/or Zwitterionic Surfactants Preferred amphoteric surfactants are amine oxides. These are materials of the general formula:

RiR₂R₃N→O wherein Ri is typically a Cs-Ci₈ alkyl group, for example, C₁₂-C₁₄ alkyl, and R₂ and R₃, which may be the same or different, are C₁-C₃ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, for example, methyl groups. The most preferred amine oxide is coco dimethylamine oxide. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants are betaines, and especially amidobetaines. Preferred betaines are Cs-Ci β alkyl amidoalkylbetaines, for example, coco amidopropyl betaine (CAPB).

Additional Ingredients

Several other ingredients commonly used in the production of cleansing compositions can also be used in the present invention. These ingredients include, without limitation, humectants and/or moisturizers such as glycerin, opacifying agents such as glycol distearate, natural and/or synthetic polymers, silicones, preservatives such as methylparaben and propylparaben, antioxidants, viscosity modifiers, fragrances and colorants.

The colorants used in the cosmetic composition can be synthetic or natural, and are present in small amounts in the composition. They absorb visible light in a determined wavelength and send it in another, producing the observed coloration in the composition. Useful colorants include, without limitation, inorganic pigments, organic pigments and combinations thereof.

Production Process Soap production processes useful in the present invention are those already part of the state of the art, such as the Continental Process. Also known as "method 4:2:1, because for each four parts of oil, two parts of water and one part of gum is used in the production of the emulsion. By this method, the Arabic gum or any other O/W emulsifier is ground with the oil in a dry mortar until an homogeneous mixture is achieved. The best ratio between the oil, water and gum is 4:2:1. Cellulose derivatives or other emulsifiers can replace the gum.

This method has two variants: a) Continental Direct: in this variant, the fatty material of the discontinuous phase (oil phase) is melted at 70°-90°C and then mixed with the continuous phase (aqueous phase). b) Continental Indirect: There is an inversion of phases, when one of the phases is higher than 74% (74% of aqueous phase and 26% of oil phase, or vice-versa) The use of the LEE (low energy emulsion) method presents several advantages such as reduced use of thermal energy, substances and storage, producing a product with high viscosity, stability, consistency and appearance, when compared to classical production methods. It increases the yield up to 80% when compared with the continental process. Another advantage is the reduced emulsification cooling time and processing when compared to the state of the art methods.

The LEE process comprises three different phases: oil, alpha (α) and beta (β). The oil phase comprises the carotenoids and other fatty substances while the remaining ingredients are distributed in the fases alpha and beta. This process guarantees the integrity of the dematological properties of the components for both solid and liquid soap compositions.

Example 1

The present invention describes a method to produce a solid soap comprising α-tocopherol and β-carotene, present in the oil of Bactris gasipaes

H. B. K. and Mauhtia flexuosa. The process comprise the steps of mixing phases A and B, followed by homogenization, and add this mixture to phase C at 40⁰C.

Then a solid soap base is melted and the emulsion containing the oils is added into the melted soap base, in a temperature that allows melting of the base and does not allow decomposition of the oils. The soap base may contain any ingredient commonly known in soap manufacture, and the soap composition is shown in the table below:

Table 1. Stable solid soap composition, comprising oils of Bactris gasipaes H. B. K. and Mauritia flexuosa.

Example 2

In the microbiological controls of the present composition, no contamination was observed. The analytical tests performed did not show any instability, such as phase separation. These results can be better seen in the tables below.

Table 2. Sensorial Properties of the Solid Soap.

N = No alterations S = Alterations in the parameters observed Table 3. Physico-chemical properties of the solid soap

T = Time in days FP = 140 ml_ plastic bag

RPA = 6Og Plastic container at room temperature

NHF = No phase separation

NHA = No alteration

FPT = transparent plastic film

Claims

ClaimsSOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING PLANT EXTRACTS AND PROCESS FORPRODUCING THE SAME

1. Solid cleansing composition comprising plant extracts characterized by the fact that it comprises: a) from 45% w/w to 70% w/w of surfactants; b) from 1% w/w to 15% w/w of a plant oil comprising oil from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia; and c) water.

2. Solid cleansing composition, according to claim 1 , characterized by the fact that the surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of anionic, non- ionic, cationic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic and mixtures thereof.

3. Solid cleansing composition, according to claim 2, characterized by the fact that the anionic surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of C8-15 linear alkyl benzene sulphonate, primary alkyl or alkenyl sulphate in which the alkyl or alkenyl chain has of 8 to 18 carbon atoms and a solubilising cation, olefin sulphonates, alkane sulphonates, dialkyl sulphosuccinates, fatty acid ester sulphonates, soaps of fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

4. Solid cleansing composition, according to claim 2, characterized by the fact that the cationic surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium salts of the general formula:

wherein the R groups are long or short alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or ethoxylated alkyl groups, and X is a solubilising anion, cationic esters and mixtures thereof.

5. Solid cleansing composition, according to claim 2, characterized by the fact that the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of primary and secondary alcohol ethoxylates, with an average of from 1 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, alkylpolyglycosides, glycerol monoethers, polyhydroxyamides and mixtures thereof.

6. Solid cleansing composition, according to claim 2, characterized by the fact that the amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of materials of the general formula:

wherein Ri is typically a C₈-C₁₈ alkyl group, and R₂ and R₃, which may be the same or different, are C₁-C₃ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups; C₈-C₁₈ alkyl amidoalkylbetaines.

7. Solid cosmetic cleansing composition, according to claim 1 , characterized by the fact that the plant oil is extracted from the fruits of the plant.

8. Solid cleansing composition, according to claim 1 , characterized by the fact that the plants are Bactris gasipaes H. B. K and/or Mauritia flexuosa.

9. Solid cleansing composition, according to claim 1 , characterized by the fact that it comprises additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of humectants, moisturizers, opacifying agents, natural and/or synthetic polymers, silicones, preservatives, antioxidants, viscosity modifiers, fragrances, colorants and mixture thereof.

10. Process for producing a solid cleansing composition characterized by the fact that it comprises the steps of: a) preparing an oil phase comprising a plant oil comprising oil from plants belonging to the genus Bactris and/or Mauritia; b) preparing an aqueous phase comprising the surfactants; c) addition of the oil phase of a) in the aqueous phase of b) at a temperature higher than about 40⁰C; d) addition of the emulsion of c) into a soap base.

11. Process, according to claim 10, characterized by the fact that the surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic and mixtures thereof.

12. Process, according to claim 11 , characterized by the fact that the anionic surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of C8-15 linear alkyl benzene sulphonate, primary alkyl or alkenyl sulphate in which the alkyl or alkenyl chain has of 8 to 18 carbon atoms and a solubilising cation, olefin sulphonates, alkane sulphonates, dialkyl sulphosuccinates, fatty acid ester sulphonates, soaps of fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

13. Process, according to claim 11, characterized by the fact that the cationic surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium salts of the general formula:

14. Process, according to claim 11 , characterized by the fact that the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of primary and secondary alcohol ethoxylates, with an average of from 1 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, alkylpolyglycosides, glycerol monoethers, polyhydroxyamides and mixtures thereof.

15. Process, according to claim 11 , characterized by the fact that the amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from the group consisting of materials of the general formula:

wherein Ri is typically a Cs-Ci₈ alkyl group, and R₂ and R₃, which may be the same or different, are C₁-C₃ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups; C₈-Ci₈ alkyl amidoalkylbetaines.

16. Process, according to claim 10, characterized by the fact that the plant oil is extracted from the fruits of the plant.

17. Process, according to claim 10, characterized by the fact that the plants are Bactris gasipaes H. B. K and/or Mauritia flexuosa.

18. Process, according to claim 10, characterized by the fact that it comprises additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of humectants, moisturizers, opacifying agents, natural and/or synthetic polymers, silicones, preservatives, antioxidants, viscosity modifiers, fragrances, colorants and mixture thereof.

19. Process, according to claim 10, characterized by the fact that the emulsion formed in step c) is formed by a Low Energy Emulsion process.