WO2009071529A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant des terres colorantes et des particules d'interférence - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant des terres colorantes et des particules d'interférence Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009071529A1
WO2009071529A1 PCT/EP2008/066603 EP2008066603W WO2009071529A1 WO 2009071529 A1 WO2009071529 A1 WO 2009071529A1 EP 2008066603 W EP2008066603 W EP 2008066603W WO 2009071529 A1 WO2009071529 A1 WO 2009071529A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
colouring
earths
composition according
composition
weight
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PCT/EP2008/066603
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English (en)
Inventor
Guillaume Cassin
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2009071529A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009071529A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/965—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of inanimate origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising colouring earths and interference particles
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions intended for making up and/or caring for the skin and lips comprising colouring earths and specific interference particles.
  • a first alternative takes advantage of fluorescent compounds, such as optical brighteners.
  • fluorescent compounds such as optical brighteners.
  • optical brighteners only provide an immediate lightening effect under optimum lighting conditions generally far better than those provided by natural light or ordinary lighting.
  • a second alternative is targeted at using "interference" pigments, that is to say pigments capable of providing a different coloured highlight according to their angle of observation.
  • these compositions generally have the disadvantage of providing, at the same time, a shiny appearance which is thus not in accordance with the natural flesh tints of the skin.
  • these interference pigments are generally employed under conditions such that the corresponding cosmetic composition provides an excessively imperfect coloured and/or covering effect which thus masks the natural appearance of the skin.
  • Such compositions are described in particular in the documents WO 01/51017 and US 5 690 916. Consequently, there remains a need for a cosmetic composition which makes it possible to provide a "good appearance” effect which lightens and/or gives uniformity to the complexion while retaining the natural flesh tints of the skin in terms of colour and/or of lustre.
  • a subject-matter of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least interference particles, the mean size by volume of which is less or equal than 40 ⁇ m, preferably less than 40 ⁇ m and at least one colouring earth.
  • a subject-matter of the present invention is a method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips comprising at least the application, to the skin and/or lips, of a composition as defined above.
  • a subject-matter of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above in obtaining a "good appearance" effect which lightens and/or gives uniformity to the skin and/or lips.
  • compositions according to the invention have the advantage of not conferring a covering or shiny appearance and thus of retaining, as best as possible, the natural flesh tints of the skin on which they are applied.
  • the compositions according to the invention thus differ from conventional foundation compositions comprising in particular synthetic pigments which generally affect the natural flesh tints of the skin by darkening or significantly modifying its natural colouring or, conversely, by lightening the latter to an excessively great extent, or also by conferring an excessively shiny appearance thereon.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one "interference" particle, the mean size by volume of which is less or equal than 40 ⁇ m, preferably less than 40 ⁇ m.
  • interference particles denotes any particle having a structure which makes possible the creation of an effect of colour by interference of the light rays which diffract and scatter differently according to the nature of the layers. Thus, these particles can exhibit colours which vary according to the angle of observation and the incidence of the light.
  • These particles can have a multilayer structure.
  • a multilayer structure is intended to denote, without distinction, a structure formed of a substrate covered with a single layer or a structure formed of a substrate covered with at least two, indeed even several, consecutive layers.
  • the multilayer structure can thus comprise one layer, indeed even at least two layers, each layer, independently or not of the other layer(s), being made of at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2 , CeF 3 , ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2 , Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3 , Pt, Va, AI 2 O 3 , MgO, Y 2 O 3 , S 2 O 3 , SiO, HfO 2 , ZrO 2 , CeO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , Ta 2 O 5 , TiO 2 , Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2 , cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations.
  • the multilayer structure is of inorganic nature.
  • the interference particles under consideration according to the invention can be interference pigments or also natural or synthetic and monolayer or multilayer pearlescent agents, in particular formed of a natural substrate based, inter alia, on mica which is covered with one or more layers of metal oxide.
  • the interference particles according to the invention are characterized by a mean size by volume generally of less or equal than 40 ⁇ m, preferably less than 40 ⁇ m, more particularly of less than 30 ⁇ m, in particular of less than 20 ⁇ m and especially of less than 15 ⁇ m, measured with a laser particle sizer, such as, for example, the Mastersizer 2000 ® from Malvernet or the BI90 + ® from Brookhaven Instrument Corporation.
  • a laser particle sizer such as, for example, the Mastersizer 2000 ® from Malvernet or the BI90 + ® from Brookhaven Instrument Corporation.
  • these interference particles can have a mean size by volume ranging from 0.1 to 40 ⁇ m, preferably from 0.5 to 30 ⁇ m, more preferably from 1 to 20 ⁇ m and more preferably still from 1 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • the monolayer structures which may be suitable for the implementation of the present invention can be platelet particles with a mean size by volume of less or equal than 40 ⁇ m, preferably less than 40 ⁇ m of boron nitride or of bismuth oxychloride. Mention may be made, for example, of the boron nitrides sold under the names PUHP 1030L and PUHP 3008 by St Gobain Ceramics or Soft Touch Powder CC6058 by Advanced Ceramic. Mention may also be made of the bismuth oxychlorides sold under the names Biron LF2000 and Biron ESQ by Merck or Biju Ultra UFC by Engelhard.
  • the pearlescent agents exhibiting a multilayer structure of mica/tin oxide/titanium oxide type such as, for example, those sold under the names Timiron Silk Blue ® , Timiron Silk Red ® , Timiron Silk Green ® , Timiron Silk Gold ® and Timiron Super Silk ® by Merck, and mica/iron oxide/titanium oxide pearlescent agents, such as, for example, Flamenco Satin Blue ® , Flamenco Satin Red ® and Flamenco Satin Violet ® provided by Engelhard, and their mixtures, are very particularly suitable for the invention.
  • these interference particles are made so as to be furthermore compatible with the requirements in terms of brightness and of saturation required for the compositions according to the invention.
  • these interference particles are present in an amount sufficient to produce a homogeneous effect in terms of colouring while retaining the natural flesh tints of the skin and/or lips. More specifically, these particles can be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one colouring earth.
  • colouring earths is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present patent application, composite particles, existing in a natural state, which comprise a colouring mineral part (natural pigments) and a noncolouring mineral part (natural fillers).
  • colouring earths can, for the purpose of being incorporated in cosmetic compositions according to the invention, form the subject of a number of transformations, in particular after extraction, which will be described in detail subsequently.
  • the colouring earths used in the context of the present invention can be pulverulent natural mineral compounds composed of natural “fillers” in which "pigments" are dispersed, which pigments can be natural or of natural origin.
  • colouring earths are preferably of natural origin. However, they can be manufactured industrially, the essential point being, in the latter case, that they exhibit a structure identical or similar to composite structures of natural origin (that is to say, comprising a colouring mineral part and a noncolouring mineral part) and that, for this reason, they exhibit identical or similar physicochemical properties to the colouring earths.
  • colouring earths does not encompass particles which are covered or coated with a layer or several layers of pigments on their surface.
  • natural filler is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present patent application, noncolouring mineral particles.
  • colouring mineral part is understood to mean particles coloured throughout their bulk “capable of conferring a colour” other than white on the composition in which they are found.
  • the composition comprising "colouring mineral particles” is capable of colouring the support on which it is applied.
  • the composition obtained is colouring and preferably coloured.
  • colouring particles is thus understood to mean particles capable of colouring the support on which they are applied.
  • the colouring mineral particles exhibit a colour other than white. They are insoluble in the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition and are intended to colour and opacify the film of cosmetic composition deposited on the keratinous substances.
  • noncolouring mineral part or “natural fillers” is understood to mean colourless or white particles of lamellar or nonlamellar shape. These particles do not confer colour (other than white) on the composition in which they are found. Thus, the composition comprising solely noncolouring particles is neither coloured nor colouring.
  • noncolouring particles is thus understood to mean particles which do not colour the support on which they are applied in a colour other than white.
  • the colouring earths may have formed the subject of transformations, it being possible for these transformations to be:
  • transformations which do not modify the composition of the starting material with respect to its origin apart optionally from its water content. These transformations essentially bring about modifications to the physical appearance of the ingredient with respect to its origin. Examples of transformations coming within this category are:
  • ingredients of mineral origin processes which make it possible to obtain materials by dissolution/reprecipitation of mineral entities, resulting in simple oxides or structured oxides (zeolites, mesoporous materials, and the like),
  • transformations for a functionalization in particular amination, nitration, silylation or carboxylation, using catalysts of mineral or biological origin, and also biotransformations by genetically modified organisms, the function of which does or does not correspond to the original reaction, and processes giving rise to the synthesis of mixtures of oxides.
  • the colouring earths which may be suitable for the present invention can be categorized according to their colour, according to their geographical origin or according to their chemical composition.
  • the colouring earths according to the invention are preferably composite particles, the colouring mineral part of which comprises iron, preferably in the oxidized form.
  • the colouring earths can comprise between 3% and 95% by weight of iron oxide, expressed as ferric oxide Fe 2 O 3 , preferably between 5 and 80% by weight and more preferably between 5 and 65% by weight.
  • ochre is sometimes used to denote certain colouring earths.
  • the term “ochre” should denote a subcategory of colouring earths comprising a fairly low iron oxide content.
  • the term “ochre” is used in the same way as the term “colouring earth”, without the iron oxide content being specified.
  • the various natural iron oxides are identified in particular according to Standard NFT 36.001 of 1988. The following in particular are distinguished: natural yellow iron oxides (Pigment Yellow 43), which are identified by the references of the Colour Index C.I. 77492: they are hydrated iron oxides (goethite, lepidocrocite), natural red iron oxides (Pigment Red 102) which are identified by the references of the Colour Index C.I. 77491 : they are natural iron sesquioxides of the haematite type, and natural black iron oxides (Pigment Black 11 ) which are identified by the references of the Colour Index C.I. 77499: they are magnetites charged with phosphorus and sulphur.
  • the most ubiquitous iron oxides in the earths can in particular be in the hydrated form, known as goethite (yellow iron oxide), or in the anhydrous form, known as haematite (red iron oxide).
  • Haematite exists in the native state and it can also be obtained after calcination of goethite. It is thus possible, depending on the operating conditions of the calcination process, to vary the goethite/haematite ratio in order to obtain a range of colours of the colouring earth varying from light yellow to red.
  • the colouring earths can also comprise coloured metal oxides other than iron oxide, such as manganese oxide or aluminium oxide.
  • the colouring earths according to the invention are preferably composite particles, the noncolouring mineral part of which can be chosen from clay, gypsum, calcite, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, quartz, alumina hydrate, silica, kaolinite and their mixtures.
  • the colouring earths according to the present invention can be categorized according to their colour. It is possible to distinguish yellow earths, red earths, green earths, brown earths or black earths.
  • the main ingredient of yellow earths is yellow iron oxide. Mention may be made, among yellow earths present in the native state, of:
  • the yellow ochre from the Vaucluse is composed of quartz, kaolinite (clay) and natural yellow iron oxide.
  • Natural yellow ochre can be washed (levigation process). Ochre is very often removed in sandy soils. It is therefore necessary to separate the ochre from the sand. The thinned material is subsequently recovered in settling tanks, then dried or treated, as indicated above, by levigation, and ground. Red earths
  • red colouring earths Mention may be made, as example of red colouring earths, without implied limitation, of red ochre from the Vaucluse, Venetian red, Indian red and English red.
  • Venetian red, Indian red and English red are all highly colouring opaque reds. The intensity of their red is much greater than that of the red from the Vaucluse.
  • English red is a red iron oxide with the addition of sodium polysulphide aluminosilicate, hence its rather purplish appearance.
  • Indian red is very similar to English red, to such an extent that it is difficult to distinguish them according to the different manufactures. Some varieties are covering and colouring.
  • red colouring earths are burnt sienna, Pozzuoli red (terra rosa from Pozzuoli, a town close to Naples), Ercolano red (Italy), Falun red (town in Sweden having a deposit) or Armenian bole (red colouring earth also described as red ochre).
  • the green earths comprise complex silicates, such as: - glauconite: complex silicate of aluminium and of potassium comprising iron, which largely replaces the aluminium, and
  • the green colouring earths can also comprise copper.
  • the colouring earths described above also comprise at least a noncolouring mineral part or filler, such as, for example, clay (kaolinite), gypsum (calcium sulphate), calcite (calcium carbonate), magnesium carbonate, quartz (crystalline silica), alumina hydrate or one of their mixtures.
  • a noncolouring mineral part or filler such as, for example, clay (kaolinite), gypsum (calcium sulphate), calcite (calcium carbonate), magnesium carbonate, quartz (crystalline silica), alumina hydrate or one of their mixtures.
  • the colouring earths which are particularly suitable for the present invention comprise at least a colouring mineral part and at least a noncolouring mineral part, the colouring mineral part being integral with at least one of the constituents of the noncolouring mineral part.
  • the colouring mineral part is homogeneously dispersed inside the matrix formed by the noncolouring mineral part.
  • the colouring earths within the meaning of the present invention cannot be replaced by a mixture of a colouring mineral part and of a noncolouring mineral part (i.e., a mixture of pigments and of fillers, which may be natural or synthetic).
  • the intrinsic properties of colouring earths result from the specific association between the colouring mineral part and the noncolouring mineral part. This specific association is related to the geological history of the soil from which the colouring earth is extracted.
  • the particles constituting the colouring mineral part can exhibit a mean size, measured by scanning electron microscopy, of less than or equal to 1.7 ⁇ m and in particular ranging from 0.05 ⁇ m to 1.7 ⁇ m, preferably from 0.1 ⁇ m to 1.5 ⁇ m.
  • the colouring earths used in the context of the present invention can be removed from their natural source and subjected to various purification treatments, such as washing, or grinding. They can be used crude or calcined.
  • the colouring earths can be washed.
  • the washing of an earth corresponds to a process known as "levigation".
  • an amount of earth is marinated in three times its volume of water in a closed container.
  • the lid is preferably separated from the liquid by a distance of at least three centimetres.
  • the mixture subsequently has to be left for a few seconds before being decanted.
  • the impurities and even the large clayey lumps should be left at the bottom of the first container.
  • the operation can be repeated while increasing, on each occasion, the marinating time.
  • the mixture is subsequently dried and optionally ground.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 % to 100% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, of colouring earth, preferably from 1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight and more preferably still from 1 to 20% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise colouring earths and interference particles in a content such that the colouring earths/interference particles ratio by weight is greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8 and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one other additional natural compound or additional compound of natural origin.
  • natural compound is understood to mean:
  • the compounds "of natural origin” are natural compounds which have been subjected to transformations, it being possible for these transformations to be:
  • a compound is regarded as natural or of natural origin when it is predominantly composed of natural constituents, that is to say when the ratio by weight of the natural constituents to the nonnatural constituents of which it is composed is greater than 1.
  • compositions of the invention can comprise more than 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of natural compounds or compounds of natural origin (including the abovementioned earths).
  • compositions according to the invention can comprise from 50 to 100% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of natural compounds or compounds of natural origin, preferably from 70% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 80% to 95% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention can be composed exclusively of natural compounds or compounds of natural origin.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium denotes a nontoxic medium capable of being applied to the skin of human beings.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the skin on which the composition has to be applied and to the form under which the composition is intended to be packaged, in particular fluid form at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises in particular water.
  • It can also comprise a mixture of water and of water-miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • monoalcohol suitable for the implementation of the invention of saturated hydrocarbon compounds comprising a single hydroxyl functional group and comprising from 2 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 4 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • polyhydroxylated solvent is intended to cover any hydrocarbon compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functional groups and comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon chains can, if appropriate, be interrupted by the presence of at least one heteroatom and in particular an oxygen atom.
  • the polyol suitable for the implementation of the present invention can be chosen in particular from saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic alcohols.
  • the polyol can be chosen, for example, from a diol, a triol, a tetraol or a pentaol or one of their esters.
  • the polyol can be a diol or one of its esters, for example chosen from a fatty alcohol dimer, a mono- or polyglycerol, a mono- or poly(C 2-4 alkylene) glycol, 1 ,4-butanediol and pentaerythritol.
  • diol which can also be suitable for the implementation of the invention, of butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, undecanediol, dodecane- diol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octa- decenediol, cyclohexanediol, 1 ,1 '-oxydipropanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbi
  • a mixture based at least on ethanol and on propylene glycol or on dipropylene glycol or on butylene glycol is very particularly suitable as mixture.
  • the aqueous phase (water and optionally water-miscible organic solvent(s)) can be present at a content ranging from 1 % to 99% by weight, in particular ranging from 3% to 80% by weight and especially ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise a fatty phase and in particular at least one fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and/or one fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can in particular comprise, as liquid fatty substance, at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil or one of their mixtures.
  • volatile oil is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a nonzero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.01 to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa to 40 000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mmHg (30 Pa).
  • nonvolatile oil is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).
  • volatile or nonvolatile oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils or their mixtures.
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur or phosphorus atoms.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar ® or Permethyl ® trade names, branched C 8 -C 16 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures.
  • Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt ® by Shell, can also be used.
  • volatile oils of volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes
  • silicone oils which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexa- siloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures.
  • the volatile oil can be present in a composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1 % to 98% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 65% by weight and especially from 1 % to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the nonvolatile oils can in particular be chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon, fluorinated and/or silicone oils. Mention may in particular be made, as nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, of: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , it being possible for these chains to be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkinseed, cucumber, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower or musk rose oils; shea butter; or
  • the nonvolatile silicone oils which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) which are nonvolatile, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendent alkyl or alkoxy groups and/or alkyl or alkoxy groups at the silicone chain end, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the nonvolatile oils can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 85% by weight and especially from 1 to 70% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the liquid fatty substance can be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 90% by weight and in particular of 0.1 to 85% by weight, with respect to the weight of the fatty phase.
  • the fatty substance which is solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure can be chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures.
  • This solid fatty substance can be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% by weight, in particular of 0.1 to 40% by weight and especially of 0.2 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the fatty phase.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one fatty compound which is pasty at ambient temperature.
  • pasty fatty substance is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55°C, preferably from 25 to 45°C, and/or a viscosity at 40 0 C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. s (1 to 400 poises), preferably from 0.5 to 25 Pa. s, measured with a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz.
  • a person skilled in the art can choose, from the MS-r3 and MS-r4 spindles, on the basis of his general knowledge, the spindle which makes it possible to measure the viscosity, so as to be able to carry out the measurement of the pasty compound tested.
  • these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymer type; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds; they can also be provided in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and/or silicone compounds.
  • hydrocarbon compounds optionally of polymer type; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds; they can also be provided in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and/or silicone compounds.
  • pasty hydrocarbon compounds comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups.
  • Use may also be made of esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, in particular those having from 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35°C and/or viscosity at 40 0 C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.
  • s such as triisostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate); cholesterol esters, such as triglycerides of vegetable origin, for example hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and their mixtures.
  • triglyceride of vegetable origin of derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as "Thixinr" from Rheox.
  • silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with high molecular weights and in particular those having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and a melting point of 20-55 0 C, such as stearyl dimethicones, in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 ® and DC25514 ® , and their mixtures.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • stearyl dimethicones in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 ® and DC25514 ® , and their mixtures.
  • the pasty fatty substance can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 45% by weight and better still ranging from 0.2 to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the composition according to the invention can additionally comprise a wax.
  • the wax can be solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change in state, having a melting point of greater than 30 0 C which can range up to 200 0 C, a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa and exhibiting, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization.
  • the wax can be a hydrocarbon, fluorine and/or silicone wax and can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. It can be chosen, for example, from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, silicone waxes, microcrystalline waxes and their mixtures.
  • the wax can be present in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion.
  • the wax can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1 % to 30% by weight and especially from 0.2% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can comprise, in addition to the colouring earths and interference particles described above, at least one additional colouring material chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, other than those described above, and/or soluble dyes, with the proviso that these do not affect the expected properties of the composition.
  • Mention may more particularly be made, by way of illustration and without implied limitation of mineral pigments, of yellow, red or brown metal oxides, such as, for example, iron oxides. Mention may be made, as metal powders, of copper powder.
  • the pigments employed in the context of the present invention can be used either in their crude form or in a pretreated form, in particular in a form treated at their surface.
  • pigments which are more particularly suitable in the invention of brown iron and yellow iron oxides, coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, and alumina-treated titanium oxide, coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate, such as, in particular, the pigment pastes sold under the trade names Yellow Iron Oxide Covafluor, PF5 Yellow 601 (yellow) and PF5 R516L (red) by Daito or under the trade names FA50DRF, FA50DYF, FA65DF and FA65DBF by Kobo.
  • pearlescent agents should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shells or else synthesized and which exhibit a colour effect by optical interference.
  • the pearlescent agents other than the interference particles described above can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic dye, in particular of the abovementioned type, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colouring materials.
  • the pearlescent agents can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown and/or coppery colour or glint.
  • pearlescent agents which can be employed in the context of the present invention, of pearlescent agents of gold colour sold in particular by Engelhard under the name of Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange pearlescent agents sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-coloured pearlescent agents sold in particular by Engelhard under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); pearlescent agents with a copper glint
  • the soluble dyes can be fat-soluble or water-soluble. They can be synthetic or natural and organic or mineral.
  • the synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21 , DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ( ⁇ - carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto or curcumin.
  • the synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 , betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (oenocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel or riboflavin.
  • the dyes can also be chosen from juglone, lawsone, extracts of fermented soybean, of algae, of fungi or of microorganisms, flavylium salts unsubstituted in the 3 position, such as, for example, those described in Patent EP 1 172 091 , extracts of Gesneria fulgens, Blechum procerum or Saxifraga, and pigments capable of being obtained by extraction with an organic or aqueous/organic solvent of a culture medium of micromycetes of the Monascus type.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise fillers.
  • filler denotes any material composed of spherical or nonspherical and porous or nonporous particles which are insoluble in the compositions according to the invention.
  • These fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders formed of polyamide (Nylon ® ), (Orgasol ® from Atochem), of poly- ⁇ -alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ® ) polymers, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile, for example Expancel ® (Nobel Industrie), of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap ® from Dow Corning) or of poly(methyl methacrylate) (Covabead from Wacker), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls ® from Toshiba, for example
  • the fillers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention have a particle size, expressed by volume, comparable to that of the interference particles. This makes it possible to confer a mattifying aspect on the composition, thus reinforcing the effect of rendering the complexion uniform conferred by the compositions according to the invention.
  • the fillers advantageously exhibit a size by volume of less or equal than 40 ⁇ m, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 40 ⁇ m, preferably from 1 to 30 ⁇ m and more preferably still from 1 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • the composition according to the invention can comprise various fillers of mineral or organic origin.
  • These fillers can be of any shape, in particular platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever their crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like).
  • these fillers are spherical.
  • fillers which are suitable for the invention, of talc, mica, kaolin, colloidal silica, poly- ⁇ -alanine, polyethylene, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, barium sulphate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, porous silica microparticles, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, powders formed of acrylic copolymers, in particular of poly(methyl (meth)acrylate), hollow PMMA spheres, vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate microspheres which
  • this amount is capable of varying significantly according to the nature and/or the particle size of the filler or of the mixture of fillers.
  • the filler can be present in a proportion of less than 15% by weight, in particular in a proportion of less than 10% by weight and especially less than 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one film- forming polymer.
  • film-forming polymer is understood to mean a polymer capable of forming, by itself alone or in the presence of an additional agent which is able to form a film, a continuous and adherent film on the skin and/or lips.
  • Use is preferably made of a film-forming polymer capable of forming a hydrophobic film, that is to say a polymer for which the film has a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1 % by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise conventional adjuvants, such as dyes, pigments, optical brighteners, fragrances, preservatives, physical and chemical sunscreens, sequestering agents, pH adjusters (acids or bases) and their mixtures.
  • adjuvants such as dyes, pigments, optical brighteners, fragrances, preservatives, physical and chemical sunscreens, sequestering agents, pH adjusters (acids or bases) and their mixtures.
  • adjuvants such as dyes, pigments, optical brighteners, fragrances, preservatives, physical and chemical sunscreens, sequestering agents, pH adjusters (acids or bases) and their mixtures.
  • keratolytic or prodesquamating agents for example ⁇ -hydroxy acids, ⁇ -hydroxy acids, ⁇ -keto acids, ⁇ -keto acids, retinoids and their esters, retinal, or retinoic acid and its derivatives.
  • vitamins such as, for example, vitamins B3 or PP, B5, E and K1 , and the derivatives of these vitamins and in particular their esters; agents for combating free radicals; sunscreens; moisturizing agents, such as polyols; ceramides; DHEA and its derivatives; coenzyme Q10; whitening and depigmenting agents, such as kojic acid, vitamin C and its derivatives, para-aminophenol derivatives, arbutin and its derivatives, adenosine and its derivatives, C-glycosides (pro- xylane) and their derivatives, and their mixtures.
  • vitamins such as, for example, vitamins B3 or PP, B5, E and K1 , and the derivatives of these vitamins and in particular their esters
  • agents for combating free radicals such as sunscreens; moisturizing agents, such as polyols; ceramides; DHEA and its derivatives; coenzyme Q10; whitening and depigmenting agents, such as kojic
  • composition according to the invention can be provided in the form of a formulation, in particular to be applied to the face or the neck, of a concealer, of a complexion corrector, of a makeup cream or base for the face or of a care or makeup composition for the body or lips.
  • it is a care and/or makeup product intended for the skin, in particular of the face.
  • composition according to the invention can be provided in a solid form, for example a pulverulent, compacted or cast form or in the stick form, or in the form of a fluid, for example pasty or liquid.
  • soft paste which is solid or fluid, such as a cream.
  • ointment or salve which is solid or fluid, such as a cream.
  • it can be a serum (thickened aqueous solution), an aqueous gel or an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion but also an oil- water-oil, glycol-oil-water or water-oil-water multiple emulsion.
  • the composition according to the invention is provided in the form of an emulsion or of a loose or compacted powder.
  • composition can be manufactured by known processes generally used in the cosmetics field.
  • Example 1 Cosmetic composition
  • a care composition was prepared which has the following formulation:
  • A- Glyceryl mono- and distearate/poly- ethylene glycol (100 EO) stearate mixture sold under the trade name 2.00 g Arlacel 165Fl by Uniqema
  • Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salt 0.05 g
  • phase B is heaten at 75°C, then the crosslinked AMPS copolymer is added, and then the preparation is shaken under obtaining an homogeneous gel.
  • phase A is heaten at 75°C, then the emulsion is formed by adding the phase A to the phase B under shaking.
  • the temperature is then reduced until 40-45 0 C, then the phase C is added and the preparation is maintained under shaking under complete cooling.
  • composition obtained is applied to the skin of the face.
  • the deposited layer is matt and homogeneous.
  • Example A A- Glyceryl stearate (et) PEG-100 stearate : 2.0O g Dimyristyl tartrate (et) cetearyl alcohol (et) C12-15 pareth-7 (et) PPG-25 laureth-25: 1.50 g
  • Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphate 0.05 g
  • Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphate 0.05 g
  • the examples A and B are prepared as following :
  • phase B is heaten at around 75°C and the Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide is added; then the preparation is shaken under obtaining an homogeneous gel;
  • phase A is heaten at around 75°C.
  • the emulsion is formed by adding the phase A to the phase B.
  • phase C is added and then the preparation is shaked under complete cooling.
  • Each composition is spreaded on a transparent film (Hp Color laser jet transparency, Hp Invent ; CP2936A) by using an automatic applicator sold by Braive instruments (50 ⁇ m thickness).
  • the films are the put inside a thermostated and ventilated steam room during 24hours at 37°C.
  • a contrast card Pruf recognition type 24/5 - 250 cm2 sold by Erichsen
  • the opacity was then measured by using a colorimeter Minolta CR-400, with values Y corresponding to black zones and white zones related to the tristimular system (X, Y, Z).
  • the opacity value is obtained by the following equation :
  • (Yn/Yb)* 100 Opacity % wherein Yn is the mean value of Y on black zone and Yb is the mean value of Y on white zone.
  • colouring earths in association with pearlescent agents permit, in comparison with the use of pigments in association with pearlescent agents, to obtain composition which makes it possible to provide a "good appearance" effect which lightens and/or gives uniformity to the complexion while retaining the natural flesh tints of the skin in terms of colour and/or of lustre.

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Abstract

Un objet de la présente invention porte sur une composition cosmétique de maquillage et/ou de soins pour la peau et/ou les lèvres comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins des particules d'interférence, dont la taille moyenne par volume est inférieure ou égale à 40 µm, de préférence inférieure à 40 µm, et au moins une terre colorante. Un autre objet de l'invention porte sur l'utilisation cosmétique d'une composition telle que définie ci-dessus pour obtenir un effet d'éclaircissement et/ou d'homogénéisation sur la peau et/ou les lèvres.
PCT/EP2008/066603 2007-12-06 2008-12-02 Composition cosmétique comprenant des terres colorantes et des particules d'interférence WO2009071529A1 (fr)

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FR0759598 2007-12-06
FR0759598A FR2924598B1 (fr) 2007-12-06 2007-12-06 Composition cosmetique comprenant des terres colorantes et des particules interferentielles
US921107P 2007-12-27 2007-12-27
US61/009,211 2007-12-27

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WO2012139244A1 (fr) * 2011-04-11 2012-10-18 The Procter & Gamble Commpany Composition cosmétique
US9168394B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9168393B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9168209B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9320687B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2016-04-26 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2012139244A1 (fr) * 2011-04-11 2012-10-18 The Procter & Gamble Commpany Composition cosmétique
US9168394B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9168393B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9168209B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2015-10-27 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions
US9320687B2 (en) 2013-03-13 2016-04-26 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Pigmented skin-care compositions

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