WO2009069933A2

WO2009069933A2 - Oil-in-water solid cosmetic composition with higher stability against evaporation of internal phase (water) as well as outstanding moisturizing effect

Info

Publication number: WO2009069933A2
Application number: PCT/KR2008/006955
Authority: WO
Inventors: Hong Ju Shin; Kyung Ho Choi; Jae Ho Yeon; Jun Cheol Cho
Original assignee: Amorepacific Corporation
Priority date: 2007-11-30
Filing date: 2008-11-26
Publication date: 2009-06-04
Also published as: KR101047694B1; KR20090056298A; WO2009069933A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid oil-in-water cosmetic composition. More particularly, the present invention relates to a solid oil-in-water cosmetic composition that provides clean and light usability, and excellent moisturizing effect by preventing shrinkage of contents, surface cracking and change in feeling upon use, caused by volatilization of inner aqueous phase, through comprising polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone including lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone, or a mixture of the polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone and a hydrophobic surfactant.

Description

[DESCRIPTION]

[invention Title]

OIL-IN-WATER SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION WITH HIGHER STABILITY AGAINST EVAPORATION OF INTERNAL PHASE (WATER) AS WELL AS OUTSTANDING MOISTURIZING EFFECT [Technical Field]

[Background Art]

A solid (cake) cosmetic is prepared by molding oily ingredients into a dish or a container by using much waxes or oil thickeners and mixtures thereof thereby solidifying.

An oil cake or stick thus prepared has advantages in that it is convenient to carry or use, and it forms cosmetic films having excellent water-repelling ability. However, the cake or stick has shortcomings in that it has very heavy feeling upon use, it is waxy (oily), and user's face becomes glossy over time due to much waxes used in order to maintain the ingredients and shape of the oil.

Many techniques have been researched and developed in order to improve such shortcomings. For example, US Patent No. 5,725,845 discloses a stick type matte finish cosmetic composition; US Patent No. 5,266,321 discloses a method of improving glossiness or looseness while maintaining high oil contents by employing silicon gel; Korean Laid-Open Publication No. 10-2003-0050532 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a volatile oil and excess powders to improve such shortcomings, however, there are problems in that flowability at high temperature is decreased during molding, and skin gets dry, and the powders are clustered over time and thus skin gets white due to using excess volatile oils and powders. In order to improve such shortcomings, US Patent No. 5,645,903 and 5,362,482 disclose an oil-in-water emulsifying and a water-in-oil emulsifying solid cosmetic compositions, respectively; however, these also have problems in that water in the inner aqueous phase was volatilized during use, and thus contents were shrunk and surface was cracked, and accordingly, special care was required during use even though a closed container was used.

[Disclosure] [Technical Problem] Accordingly, the present inventors analyzed what ingredient is firstly volatilized when shrinkage and surface cracking is occurred in a solid (cake) oil-in-water cosmetic, and carried out deep research on relationship between the volatile ingredient and stability of the solid (cake) oil-in-water type cosmetic in order to solve the problems of shrinkage or cracking by lowering volatility of contents. Thus, the present inventors confirmed that the ingredient firstly affecting to the shrinkage of contents and surface cracking is not outer oily volatile silicon, but inner aqueous phase even for a solid (cake) oil-in- water emulsion containing much volatile silicon. That is, a surfactant that adsorbs on the interface of the inner aqueous phase-outer oily phase to lower the interfacial energy effectively must be used in order to improve the shrinkage of the solid (cake) oil-in-water emulsion or surface cracking. The present inventors completed the present invention by investigating various types of surfactants, and thus finding out that when using polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone including lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone, or a mixture of the polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone and a hydrophobic surfactant as a surfactant, initial watery feel can be provided without shrinkage of contents or surface cracking by minimizing the energy of the water-oil interface even though the composition contains much water phases .

Accordingly, the object of the present invention is to provide a stable solid (cake) oil-in-water type cosmetic composition that can provide watery feel and light feeling upon use, and simultaneously moisturizing effect without shrinkage of contents or surface cracking by volatilizing inner aqueous phase. [Technical Solution]

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a solid oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone including lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone, or a mixture of the polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone and a hydrophobic surfactant . [Advantageous Effects] The solid oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to the present invention provided clean and light usability, and excellent moisturizing effect by preventing shrinkage of contents, surface cracking and change in feeling upon use, caused by volatilization of inner aqueous phase, through minimizing the energy at the water-oil interface. [Best Mode]

A solid oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a surfactant, an oil, an oil thickener, a cosmetic powder and water.

A surfactant used in the present invention includes polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone having lauryl PEG-

9 polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone, or a mixture of polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone and a hydrophobic surfactant.

The content of the surfactant may be 0.01 to 10 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the composition. If the content exceeds 10 parts by weight, stickiness of the composition increases and thus skin feel goes bad. If the content is less than 0.01 parts by weight, volatile stability can be decreased.

Polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone having lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone used in the present invention has a structure of Chemical Formula I below :

[Chemical Formula i]

(CHΛSiO Si(CH ^■Z,>Z

X = 10 ~ 200 The hydrophobic surfactant used in the present invention includes sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan sesquiisostearate . When such a hydrophobic surfactant is used in a mixture with the polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone having lauryl PEG- 9 polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone, the mixing ratio may be 0.1:1 to 1:0.1 based on weight.

Oil used in the present invention includes silicon oil, hydrocarbon-based oil, higher fatty acid, higher fatty acid ester, higher alcohol, vegetable oil and a mixture thereof. Its content may be 5 to 80 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the composition. If the content is less than 5 parts by weight, moisturizing effect goes bad. If the content exceeds 80 parts by weight, the shape of the cosmetic composition is broken down and run down as well as the content of water is decreased and thus total skin feel becomes heavy at high temperature.

Volatile silicon oil used in the present invention may be cyclomethicone silicon oil represented by formula II below such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopenta siloxane. [Chemical Formula II]

i = 1-4

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can use a nonvolatile silicon oil including dimethicone and polypetrinyl methicone; a hydrocarbon-based oil including squalan, liquid paraffin and hydrogenated C6- 14 olefin polymer; a higher fatty acid; a higher fatty acid ester including butyleneglycol dicaprylate-dicaprate, C14- 18 alkylethyl hexanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl octanoate and octydodecyl myristate; a higher alcohol; a vegetable oil including meadowfoam seed oil, olive oil and jojoba oil; and an oil for blocking ultraviolet ray including ethylhexylmethoxy cinnamate, octylsalicylate, ethylhexyl triazine and bis- ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyl triazine as an oil for moisturizing effect or improving skin feel, but the oil is not limited to those examples.

A solid oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to the present invention uses solid wax having high melting point as an oil thickener since the composition does not flow and must maintain its form at a temperature range that customers use the composition, for example, 20 ~ 50^°C below zero. The solid wax used in the present invention is made of linear or branched hydrocarbon with 25 to 52 carbon atoms, and particularly, examples of waxes include a petroleum wax such as paraffin wax and microcrystalline wax; a mineral wax such as ozokerite and ceresine; a natural wax such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax, and these can be used alone or in a mixture. The content of the oil thickener may be 2 to 20 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the composition. If the content of the thickener is less than 2 parts by weight, it is difficult to prepare a solid (cake) formulation. If the content exceeds 20 parts by weight, the composition is too hard to put on. Examples of the cosmetic powder used in the present invention include talc, mica, sericite, silica, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon, synthetic mica, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and titanated mica, etc. The content of the powders may be 0 to 50 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the composition. The solid oil-in-water type cosmetic provided in the present invention may not contain cosmetic powders according to the purpose of using the composition. If the content of the cosmetic powders exceed 50 parts by weight, feeling upon use can be too powdery for skin to get dry after application.

The solid oil-in-water type cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be formulated into, but formulation is not particularly limited to, a skin care cosmetic such as a solid balm, an eye stick, a cleansing balm and a balm for blocking ultraviolet ray, as well as a color cosmetic such as a make-up base and a foundation. [Mode for Invention]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples and test examples. However, the scope of the present invention is not limited to experimental examples and test examples below.

[Examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4] Solid (cake) oil-in-water type emulsions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were prepared according to the composition described in table 1 below. [Table l]

1) oily ingredients were mixed and heated to 75 to 80 ^°C , and then the mixture was completely dissolved.

2) aqueous ingredients were mixed and dissolved, and then heated to 70^°C. 3) the aqueous ingredients described in 2) above were slowly added to emulsify while the oily ingredients described in 1) above were stirred at 7000 rpm by employing a homogenizer with maintaining the temperature at 70^°C. 4) after adding the oily ingredients, the mixture was continuously stirred for about 3 to 5 minutes, and then deaerated, and the resulting product was poured into a container and cooled to 30^°C to complete a solid (cake) oil in water type emulsion. [Test example 1]

Volatile stability of a solid (cake) oil-in-water type eye balm according to the composition of a surfactant

Solid (cake) oil-in-water type emulsions prepared in the examples 1 to 3 and the comparative examples 1 to 4 were put into incubators at 30^°C and 45^°C, respectively, and then the change in weights was measured for 1 week, 2 weeks and 3 weeks without capping the container, and then the surface status of contents was confirmed to evaluate the volatile stability of the contents. <Measurement of volatility degree of the contents>

Volatility = (weights of the initial contents- weights of the contents over time) / (weights of the initial contents) X 100 [Table 2 ]

As seen in the results shown in the table 2, it could be confirmed that the compositions of the examples 1 to 3 comprising polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxane including lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, and a mixture of the organopolysiloxane and a hydrophobic surfactant were prepared as stable solid (cake) oil-in- water type emulsions having low volatility of their contents at 30 "C and 45 ^°C even without capping that do not cause problems such as shrinkage or surface cracking. [Examples 4 to 6 and comparative examples 5 to 8] Solid (cake) oil-in-water type suncreams of examples 4 to 6 and comparative examples 5 to 8 were prepared according to the composition described in table 3 below. [Table 3]

1) oily ingredients except for an agent for blocking ultraviolet ray were mixed and heated to 75 to 80^°C, and then the mixture was completely dissolved, and ingredients for blocking ultraviolet ray were put into there and the mixture was dispersed and dissolved.

2) titanium dioxide that is an inorganic ingredient for blocking ultraviolet ray was dispersed for 5 minutes while the oily ingredients described in 1) above were stirred at 7000 rpm by employing a homogenizer

3) aqueous ingredients were mixed and dissolved, and then heated to 70^°C .

4) the aqueous ingredients described in 3) above were slowly added to emulsify while the oily ingredients described in 2) above were stirred at 7000 rpm by employing a homogenizer with maintaining the temperature at 70^°C.

5) after adding the oily ingredients, the mixture was continuously stirred for about 3 to 5 minutes, and then deaerated, and the resulting product was poured into a container and cooled to 30^°C to complete a solid (cake) oil-in-water type suncream. [Test example 2] Volatile stability of a solid (cake) oil-in-water type suncream according to the composition of a surfactant

The volatile stability of solid (cake) oil-in-water type suncreams prepared in the examples 4 to 6 and the comparative examples 5 to 8 was evaluated in the same manner as the test example 1, and the results are shown in table 4 below. [Table 4]

As seen in the results shown in the table 4, it could be found that the compositions of the examples 4 to 6 comprising polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxane including lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, and a mixture of the organopolysiloxane and a hydrophobic surfactant had superior effects of preventing shrinkage or surface cracking in comparison with the comparative examples .

[Example 7 and comparative examples 9 and 10] Solid (cake) oil-in-water type suncreams of example 7 and comparative examples 9 and 10 were prepared according to the composition described in table 5 below. [Table 5]

1) oily ingredients except for an agent for blocking ultraviolet ray were mixed and heated to 75 to 80 ^°C, and then the mixture was completely dissolved, and ingredients for blocking ultraviolet ray were put into there and the mixture was dispersed and dissolved.

3) aqueous ingredients were mixed and dissolved, and then heated to 70 ^°C .

5) after adding the oily ingredients, the mixture was continuously stirred for about 3 to 5 minutes, and then deaerated, and the resulting product was poured into a container and cooled to 30^°C to complete a solid (cake) oil-in-water type suncream. [Test example 3]

Volatile stability of a solid (cake) oil-in-water type suncream according to the composition of a surfactant

The volatile stability of solid (cake) oil-in-water type suncreams prepared in the example 7 and the comparative examples 9 and 10 was evaluated in the same manner as the test example 1, and the results are shown in table 6 below. [Table 6]

As seen in the results shown in the table 6, it could be found that the compositions of the example 7 according to the present invention had superior effects of preventing shrinkage or surface cracking in comparison with the comparative examples.

[Example 8 and comparative example 11]

Solid (cake) oil-in-water type emulsions of example 8 and comparative example 11 were prepared in the same manner as the example 1 according to the composition described in table 7 below. [Table 7]

[Test example 4] skin moisturizing effect of solid (cake) oil-in-water emulsion

To find out skin moisturizing effect of the solid (cake) oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention, the cosmetic compositions prepared in the example 8 and the comparative example 11 were applied on faces and inner forearms of adults of men and women in 20s to 30s, who appealed dryness of skin or was suspected of dry skin, and then the moisture content of their skins was measured for 24 hours by employing a corneometer (CM820 courage Khazaka electronic GmbH, Germany) . Basic value is in advance obtained by measuring the moisture content of skin at constant temperature and humidity (24 "C, 40% of humidity) with a corneometer before application, and the change after 12 and 24 hours of application was measured, and the results are shown in table 8 below. [Measurement by corneometer]

Principle: ion degree of moisture present in epidermis of skin is measured by employing a sensor and evaluated, thereby calculating the moisture content, and thus determining moisturizing power.

1) a probe of the corneometer was mounted on the skin portion to be measured. 2) when pressing the probe on the skin, the capacitance of the skin is evaluated and displayed through a sensor.

3) measurement was repeated with changing sites to be measured. 4) after measuring once, the sensor was wiped with a paper such as Kimwipe, and then the measurement was again performed. [Table 8]

Moisture content of skin for a solid (cake) oil-in- water emulsion and a general oil-in-water emulsion over time

As seen in the results shown in the table 8, it could be confirmed that for the solid (cake) oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention, its moisturizing power lasted more than 24 hours, and the increasing effect in moisture content of skin is very excellent .

A questionnaire survey for how cleanness, watery feel and moisture feel when using the composition of the example 8 and the comparative example 11 was at the end of the test was performed on the test subject. The survey expressed satisfaction degree in cleanness, watery feel and moisture feel with categorizing into excellent, good, moderate and poor, and the results are shown in table 9 below. [Table 9]

Questionnaire survey for feeling upon use

As seen in the results shown in the table 9, it could be confirmed that the solid (cake) oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention had moisture feel outstandingly superior to a general oil-in-water emulsion and also had more than equal usability in terms of cleanness and watery feel.

Claims

[CLAIMS]

[Claim l]

A solid oil-in-water type cosmetic composition comprising polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone represented by formula I below as a surfactant, wherein the polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone has lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone: [Chemical Formula I]

(CH₃)₃SiO Si(CH,)

X= 10 ~ 200

[Claim 2]

The solid oil-in-water type cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises a hydrophobic surfactant selected from the group consisting of sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan sesquiisostearate .

[Claim 3]

The solid oil-in-water type cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mixing ratio of the polyoxyalkylene added organopolysiloxone having lauryl PEG- 9 polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone and the hydrophobic surfactant is 0.1:1 to 1:0.1 based on weight..

[Claim 4] The solid oil-in-water type cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises, based on 100 parts by weight the cosmetic composition, 5 to 80 parts by weight of an oil, 2 to 20 parts by weight of a solid wax, 0 to 50 parts by weight of cosmetic powders and water. [Claim 5]

The solid oil-in-water type cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil is selected from the group consisting of a volatile silicon oil including octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopenta siloxane; a nonvolatile silicon oil including dimethicone and polypetrinyl methicone; a hydrocarbon-based oil including sgualan, liquid paraffin and hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymer; a higher fatty acid; a higher fatty acid ester including butyleneglycol dicaprylate-dicaprate, C14- 18 alkylethyl hexanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl octanoate and octydodecyl myristate; a higher alcohol; a vegetable oil including meadowfoam seed oil, olive oil and jojoba oil; and an oil for blocking ultraviolet ray including ethylhexylmethoxy cinnamate, octylsalicylate, ethylhexyl triazine and bis- ethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyl triazine . [Claim 6]

The solid oil-in-water type cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the solid wax is selected from the group consisting of a petroleum wax including paraffin wax and microcrystalline wax; a mineral wax including ozokerite and ceresine; and a natural wax including carnauba wax and candelilla wax. [Claim 7]

The solid oil-in-water type cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic powders are selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, silica, polymethylmethacrylate, nylon, synthetic mica, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and titanated mica.