WO2007136286A1 - Formulation contenant des domaines de liaison hydrophobes et des domaines de liaison aux glucides pour applications cosmétiques, plus spécifiquement pour le traitement de fibres de kératine telles que les cheveux - Google Patents

Formulation contenant des domaines de liaison hydrophobes et des domaines de liaison aux glucides pour applications cosmétiques, plus spécifiquement pour le traitement de fibres de kératine telles que les cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2007136286A1
WO2007136286A1 PCT/PT2007/000020 PT2007000020W WO2007136286A1 WO 2007136286 A1 WO2007136286 A1 WO 2007136286A1 PT 2007000020 W PT2007000020 W PT 2007000020W WO 2007136286 A1 WO2007136286 A1 WO 2007136286A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
formulation
cosmetic applications
recognition domains
neck
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/PT2007/000020
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Artur Manuel Cavaco Paulo
Carla Joana S. M. Silva
Original Assignee
Universidade Do Minho
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Universidade Do Minho filed Critical Universidade Do Minho
Priority to EP07747760A priority Critical patent/EP2066292A1/fr
Publication of WO2007136286A1 publication Critical patent/WO2007136286A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the field of personal care products. More specifically, the present invention describes the composition of formulations and their use for cosmetic applications, namely for hair treatment, chemically pre-treated or not, formulations that contain agents (neck and carbohydrate recognition domains) for enhancing hair properties, such as elasticity and resistance, and look (curling or uncurling).
  • agents neck and carbohydrate recognition domains
  • hair properties such as elasticity and resistance, and look (curling or uncurling).
  • Human hair is a laminar-fibrous tissue, comprised of keratin.
  • the main morphological component is the fibrous cortex (about 80%) surrounded by the multicellular fiat cuticle sheet (about 15%).
  • the cuticle layer is characterized by having high cystine content, providing hair with its unique properties.
  • coarse hair fibres contain a central strand of single or connected medulla cells.
  • a water-soluble compound derived from a vegetable protein derivative a low-molecular peptide of various kinds of amino acids obtained by hydrolyzing a plant such as rice with an acid, an alkali, a proteinase, etc.
  • a cationic surfactant and chitosan or chitin a cationic surfactant
  • the patent WO 00/23039 describes a hair treatment composition containing a non-naturally occurring keratin protein.
  • the patent WO 03/045340 discloses a hair treatment composition comprising a mixture of a hydrolysed protein and an amino acid with aliphatic side chain.
  • the inclusion of hy- drolysed proteins in hair formulations is also described in patents EP0186025 and WO 98/51265 were they are said to provide an excellent finishing effect.
  • patents WO 92/00720 and WO 00/71086 describe the use of amino acids such as leucine, lysine or valine to stimulate growth and regeneration of hair and to prevent the formation of split ends.
  • the use of enzymes as activating agents to deliver some benefits in hair care, like for example in patent WO 00/64405, is also being described.
  • Hair is composed of lipids (structural or free) that act as a barrier to the penetration of compounds into its interior.
  • the hair lipids are part of the intercellular complex and are also present in the outer cuticle layer, the exocuticle, where they are linked to the hair proteins by thio-ester linkages.
  • the lung is made up of a series of branches conducting air into pulmonary alveoli.
  • pulmonary surfactant a mixture of saturated and unsaturated phospholipids and proteins that lines the epithelial surface and reduces surface tension.
  • pulmonary surfactant is composed of approximately 50% saturated phospholipids, 40% unsaturated phospholipids and 10% protein, including hydrophilic surfactant proteins A (SP-A) and D (SP-D), and the hydrophobic surfactant proteins B (SP-B) and C (SP-C) [4;5].
  • 'surfactant proteins compounds' is intended to refer to proteins found in lung, and includes derivatives, analogs, homologs, salts and fragments thereof.
  • 'synthetic protein polymers / biologically active peptides' refers to protein compounds that include peptides which are defined as synthetic chains of up to 100 amino acids and fragments, which substantially correspond in sequence to amino acid sequence found in specific portions of antimicrobial lung surfactant protein compounds.
  • the antioxidant or antimicrobial protein compound is a peptide comprising from about 5 to 90, preferentially from about 5 to 30 amino acids.
  • the peptides of this present invention may be linked additionally to a detectable label or solid matrix or carrier, by either or both the N-terminus and the C-terminus.
  • One important outcome if using these antioxidant or antimicrobial peptides in solution is that they are capable of preventing spoilage, off flavours and off colours due to oxidation and/or microbial proliferation in the cosmetic preparations.
  • the peptides may be further co- yalently attached to a hair colouring agent, providing therefore a hair colouring formulation that has the durability of the permanent hair dyes without the use of oxidizing agents that damage hair.
  • the present invention describes an innovative formulation for cosmetic applications, namely hair treatment, in which neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are incorporated in order to increase hair properties while reducing and repairing eventual damages on hair.
  • the term elasticity refers to the flexibility of hair and/or to its tensile strength.
  • chemical treatment refers to bleaching or dyeing
  • chemically treated hair refers to bleached or dyed hair.
  • the chemical processes related to bleaching or dyeing hair are very hard causing reduction in the elastic modulus and elastic gradient of the hair compared to untreated hair.
  • the used recognition domains were found to have a pronounced effect on the elasticity of chemically treated hair.
  • the recognition domains could be applied into hair in the form of, such as but not limited to, an aqueous solution or a conventional conditioning or shampooing composition.
  • a conventional hair care composition may be in the form of a lotion, mousse, spray, gel or hair mask. It may be a rinse-off or leave-on formulation.
  • the neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains are formulated into a rinse-off shampooing formulation.
  • the recognition domains could be incorporated into a bleaching or colorant formulation.
  • the recognition domains also protects hair against further damage when, for example, the bleached hair is subsequently dyed.
  • the recognition domains also extend the gloss and brightness of the hair and increase its body.
  • the amount of the recognition domains to be used according to the present invention depends for example on the condition of the hair, the origin of the hair or the formulation of the hair care product.
  • the amount of the recognition domains may vary from about 0.1% to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight.
  • the neck and/or carbohydrate recognition domains from the formulation for cosmetic applications can be selected from a group comprised by:
  • Synthetic protein polymers with a size equal to or less than 30 amino acids might be a repetitive amino acid sequence with chemical or biological activities or functions.
  • the formulations might contain phospholipids in its composition (as phosphatidylcholine, for example) and the recognition domains might be linked to a chromophore, such as p-aminophenol or p-diaminobenzene, for example.
  • a chromophore such as p-aminophenol or p-diaminobenzene, for example.
  • the recognition domains could be amino acids with one of the following sequences and their mammal variants, described by the one- letter code which are the symbols commonly used in the art to represent the amino acid residues in peptides.
  • LTD LTD
  • the hair was subjected to a bleaching pre-treatment, in order to provide damaged hair samples for this particular application. The process was carried out using all the samples simultaneously, such that they received exactly the same extent of processing.
  • the bleaching pre-treatment was performed using 10% OfH 2 O 2 (hydrogen peroxide) by gram of hair, in 0.1 M Na 2 CO 3 /NaHCO 3 pH 9 buffer, at 5O 0 C for one hour. After the bleaching pre-treatment, all tresses of hair were washed abundantly with distilled water.
  • a solution containing one part of a peptide of structure (XXXXY) 4 in which X is an hydrophobic amino acid and Y is a polar, neutral or basic amino acid, was mixed with nine parts of the surfactant phosphatidylcholine.
  • the peptide was previously covalently linked by the N-terminal to a fluorescent dye, the 5(6)-TAMRA (Abs m& : 544 run; Em ⁇ 572 nm), to facilitate the analysis of peptide penetration inside hair.
  • the hair tresses were treated with the solution of peptide and phosphatidylcholine, at 37°C and 100 rpm of stirring, for different periods of time.
  • the hair samples were washed, by rubbing with fingers, with water, a commercial shampoo and finally with distilled water.
  • tensile strength tests and fluorescence microscopy evaluation were performed.
  • a panel of 5 technicians evaluated the handle and appearance of the hair, verifying that the hair treated this way presented an increase in the smoothness and body appearance, mainly on the lustre and brightness of the hair, relatively to the bleached hair.
  • a solution containing one part of a peptide mimicking the representative structure of the amino acids 215 to 236 of surfactant protein SP-D was mixed with nine parts of the surfactant phosphatidylcholine.
  • the peptide was previously covalently linked by the N-terminal to a fluorescent dye, the 5(6)-TAMRA (Abs max : 544 nm; Em mix : 572 run), to facilitate the analysis of peptide penetration inside hair.
  • the hair tresses were treated with the solution of peptide and phosphatidylcholine, at 37 0 C and 100 rpm of stirring, for different periods of time. After the treatment the hair samples were washed, by rubbing with fingers, with water, a commercial shampoo and finally with distilled water.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une formulation innovante pour applications cosmétiques, plus spécifiquement pour le traitement capillaire, dans laquelle des domaines de liaison hydrophobes et/ou des domaines de liaison aux glucides sont incorporés de manière qu'elle améliore les propriétés capillaires et qu'elle réduise et répare les éventuels dommages causés aux cheveux. Cette invention utilise, comme domaines de liaison, un hydrolysat d'une protéine du lait, un modèle de protéine tensioactive humaine et certains peptides biologiquement actifs et synthétiques.
PCT/PT2007/000020 2006-05-19 2007-05-21 Formulation contenant des domaines de liaison hydrophobes et des domaines de liaison aux glucides pour applications cosmétiques, plus spécifiquement pour le traitement de fibres de kératine telles que les cheveux WO2007136286A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP07747760A EP2066292A1 (fr) 2006-05-19 2007-05-21 Formulation contenant des domaines de liaison hydrophobes et des domaines de liaison aux glucides pour applications cosmétiques, plus spécifiquement pour le traitement de fibres de kératine telles que les cheveux

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PT103484 2006-05-19
PT10348406A PT103484B (pt) 2006-05-19 2006-05-19 Formulação com domínios de ligação hidrófobos e domínios de ligação a hidratos de carbono para aplicações cosméticas nomeadamente para tratamento de fibras queratinosas como o cabelo.

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2007136286A1 true WO2007136286A1 (fr) 2007-11-29

Family

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/PT2007/000020 WO2007136286A1 (fr) 2006-05-19 2007-05-21 Formulation contenant des domaines de liaison hydrophobes et des domaines de liaison aux glucides pour applications cosmétiques, plus spécifiquement pour le traitement de fibres de kératine telles que les cheveux

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2066292A1 (fr)
PT (1) PT103484B (fr)
WO (1) WO2007136286A1 (fr)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009084168A (ja) * 2007-09-28 2009-04-23 Kao Corp 毛髪化粧料
WO2022133333A3 (fr) * 2020-12-19 2022-09-01 Purvala Bioscience, Inc. Compositions et leur procédé d'utilisation pour le lissage et la mise en forme des cheveux
US11596589B2 (en) 2020-12-19 2023-03-07 Purvala Bioscience, Inc. Compositions and method of use for hair straightening and shaping
US11712410B2 (en) 2018-09-05 2023-08-01 K18, Inc. Composition for improving hair health

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR102353497B1 (ko) 2013-10-18 2022-01-21 유니베르시다데 도 미노 펩타이드 조성물 및 그 용도

Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2147807A (en) * 1983-10-14 1985-05-22 Oreal Cosmetic colouring compositions containing protein derivatives
EP0335133A2 (fr) * 1988-03-31 1989-10-04 Abbott Laboratories Délivrance d'un médicament à l'aide d'un tensioactif pulmonaire pour faciliter l'absorption
EP0413957A2 (fr) * 1989-08-22 1991-02-27 Abbott Laboratories Fragments de la protéine de tensio-actif pulmonaire
WO1993021221A1 (fr) * 1992-04-10 1993-10-28 Abbott Laboratories Fragments proteiques tensio-actifs pulmonaires
DE19633112A1 (de) * 1996-08-16 1998-02-19 Goldwell Gmbh Dauerwellmittel und Fixiermittel für Dauerwellen
US20040037781A1 (en) * 2000-06-30 2004-02-26 Mccormack Jr Francis X. Peptides with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties
FR2849774A1 (fr) * 2003-01-15 2004-07-16 Eugene Perma France Composition pur la coloration permanente de fibres keratiniques.
US20040229802A1 (en) * 2003-04-15 2004-11-18 Fleiszig Suzanne M.J. Methods and compositions for treating ocular disease

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2147807A (en) * 1983-10-14 1985-05-22 Oreal Cosmetic colouring compositions containing protein derivatives
EP0335133A2 (fr) * 1988-03-31 1989-10-04 Abbott Laboratories Délivrance d'un médicament à l'aide d'un tensioactif pulmonaire pour faciliter l'absorption
EP0413957A2 (fr) * 1989-08-22 1991-02-27 Abbott Laboratories Fragments de la protéine de tensio-actif pulmonaire
WO1993021221A1 (fr) * 1992-04-10 1993-10-28 Abbott Laboratories Fragments proteiques tensio-actifs pulmonaires
DE19633112A1 (de) * 1996-08-16 1998-02-19 Goldwell Gmbh Dauerwellmittel und Fixiermittel für Dauerwellen
US20040037781A1 (en) * 2000-06-30 2004-02-26 Mccormack Jr Francis X. Peptides with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties
FR2849774A1 (fr) * 2003-01-15 2004-07-16 Eugene Perma France Composition pur la coloration permanente de fibres keratiniques.
US20040229802A1 (en) * 2003-04-15 2004-11-18 Fleiszig Suzanne M.J. Methods and compositions for treating ocular disease

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
KISHORE ET AL: "Surfactant proteins SP-A and SP-D: Structure, function and receptors", MOLECULAR IMMUNOLOGY, ELMSFORD, NY, US, vol. 43, no. 9, March 2006 (2006-03-01), pages 1293 - 1315, XP005305302, ISSN: 0161-5890 *

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009084168A (ja) * 2007-09-28 2009-04-23 Kao Corp 毛髪化粧料
US20100272666A1 (en) * 2007-09-28 2010-10-28 Kao Corporation Hair cosmetic composition
US9040028B2 (en) * 2007-09-28 2015-05-26 Kao Corporation Hair cosmetic composition
US11712410B2 (en) 2018-09-05 2023-08-01 K18, Inc. Composition for improving hair health
WO2022133333A3 (fr) * 2020-12-19 2022-09-01 Purvala Bioscience, Inc. Compositions et leur procédé d'utilisation pour le lissage et la mise en forme des cheveux
US11596589B2 (en) 2020-12-19 2023-03-07 Purvala Bioscience, Inc. Compositions and method of use for hair straightening and shaping

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
PT103484B (pt) 2008-03-31
EP2066292A1 (fr) 2009-06-10
PT103484A (pt) 2007-11-30

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