WO2005115314A1 - Verfahren zur restrukturierung keratinischer fasern - Google Patents
Verfahren zur restrukturierung keratinischer fasern Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2005115314A1 WO2005115314A1 PCT/EP2005/003696 EP2005003696W WO2005115314A1 WO 2005115314 A1 WO2005115314 A1 WO 2005115314A1 EP 2005003696 W EP2005003696 W EP 2005003696W WO 2005115314 A1 WO2005115314 A1 WO 2005115314A1
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- Prior art keywords
- acid
- hair
- carbon atoms
- cystine
- alkyl
- Prior art date
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
Definitions
- the invention relates to a process for restructuring keratin fibers, in which a keratin fiber is brought into contact with cystine and with at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
- the invention further relates to preparations for use in these processes.
- Keratin fibers, especially hair are an important part of everyday life as an integral part of the human body and as an integral part of human clothing and home textiles.
- Treatment with washing, cleaning, styling and coloring products, for cleaning and design purposes, as well as their exposure to environmental influences such as ozone, salt and chlorine water, IR, UV and heat radiation (blow-drying) lead to over time a cumulative damage to the fibers and thus a reduction in their quality.
- both cleaning hair with shampoos and decorating the hairstyle by dyeing or perming are interventions that influence the natural structure and properties of the hair. Consequently, wet and dry combability, hold, fullness, shine and tactility of the hair, for example, can be unsatisfactory after such a treatment.
- the hold of the color on the hair can continue to be unsatisfactory, particularly with frequent hair washing, so that there is a gradual bleeding of the color.
- Nourishing additives and film formers are often added to permanent waving agents, but without significantly improving the hair structure.
- high-molecular polymers are used, for example, which attach to the top layer of skin and hair and there produce an external, subjectively perceptibly improved grip on the hair.
- the structural damage to the interior of the hair which is caused by the reduction process in the case of perms, cannot be reduced, however, because the substances cannot penetrate the hair due to their size.
- the durability of the effects of the structure-improving additives is often unsatisfactory, since these only adhere to the surface of the hair.
- Hair treatment agents are known from EP-A 1174112 which, in addition to an organic acid, contain an organic as further essential components Contain solvents, a cationic surfactant and a higher alcohol and serve to repair pores in hair.
- the object of the invention was to provide a method for restructuring keratin fibers, which has advantages over the prior art and enables sufficient effectiveness and duration of action.
- the process should not only be feasible under fiber-friendly conditions, but also be physiologically harmless, i.e. especially without the use of toxicologically harmful substances such as radical formers.
- the object of the invention is achieved by a process in which keratin fibers are brought into contact with cystine and with at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
- DE-A 10051774 describes the use of short-chain carboxylic acids with a molecular weight of less than 750 as an active ingredient for restructuring keratin fibers in cosmetic products.
- the simultaneous use of cystine is neither described nor suggested there, nor is any special effect of such a combination.
- a first object of the present invention is therefore a process for restructuring keratin fibers, in which a keratin fiber is brought into contact with cystine and with at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms
- keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers, silk and hair, but in particular human hair.
- the inner and outer structure of keratin fibers can be changed by using the method according to the invention, ie in other words that a restructuring of keratin fibers is made possible.
- Restructuring in the sense of the present invention means in particular a fiber reinforcement, an increase in tear strength and / or a reduction in the damage to keratin fibers caused by the most varied of influences.
- the restoration of natural strength plays an important role.
- Restructured fibers can be characterized, for example, by an increased tensile strength, an increased strength, an increased elasticity and / or an increased volume, which can be shown in greater abundance, for example, in a hairstyle. Furthermore, they can have an improved gloss, an improved grip and / or easier combability.
- the method according to the invention serves to strengthen, protect and repair keratin fibers and is particularly suitable for improving the hair structure and / or strengthening human hair.
- fiber properties such as strength, elasticity or volume are positively influenced in the sense of an increase in these properties.
- the process is also suitable for styling purposes such as shaping and shape retention.
- the method according to the invention is also suitable for protecting fibers from the damaging influence of light.
- the method according to the invention does not require any toxicologically questionable substances, e.g. Radical formers or radicals occurring as intermediates.
- a dicarboxylic acid is understood to mean a compound having at least two carboxyl groups, i.e. e.g. also a compound with three or more carboxyl groups.
- the dicarboxylic acid used in the process according to the invention contains two and not more, ie exactly two, carboxyl groups.
- succinic acid is used as the dicarboxylic acid.
- cystine and the at least one dicarboxylic acid are used in a weight ratio of 99 to 1 to 1 to 99, preferably 10 to 1 to 1 to 10, and in particular 2 to 1 to 1 to 2.
- Another object of the invention is the use of a combination of cystine and at least one dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 10 carbon atoms for the restructuring of keratin fibers, in particular hair, the restructuring in particular comprising fiber reinforcement.
- the present invention further relates to a fiber, in particular a keratinic fiber, which is obtainable by the process described above.
- the temperature when the dicarboxylic acid is brought into contact with the fiber is preferably in a range from about 15 to about 40 ° C.
- the fiber can be brought into contact with cystine and the dicarboxylic acid in such a way that other substances are also present. These substances are preferably selected so that they form a suitable carrier for the treatment of the fiber for the cystine and / or the dicarboxylic acid.
- the contacting can take place in such a way that the fiber is brought into contact successively with at least two preparations, one of which contains cystine and another contains at least one dicarboxylic acid.
- the process according to the invention is preferably carried out in such a way that a fiber is brought into contact with a preparation which contains both cystine and at least one dicarboxylic acid.
- the substances present in the preparation in addition to cystine and / or the dicarboxylic acid preferably form a composition of the type familiar to the person skilled in the hair cosmetics industry as a "waving agent".
- the carriers for the preparations used in the process according to the invention can be solid, liquid, gel-like or pasty. They are preferably selected from aqueous systems, natural or synthetic oils, water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions. Such systems and methods for their production are known in the prior art, to which reference is hereby made.
- the preparations can be formulated as a cream, gel or liquid. Furthermore, it is possible to assemble the agent in the form of foam aerosols, which are mixed with a liquefied gas such.
- B. propane-butane mixtures, nitrogen, CO 2 , air, NO 2 , dimethyl ether, chlorofluorocarbon blowing agents or mixtures thereof are filled in aerosol containers with a foam valve.
- the individual components of the method according to the invention are preferably used as a cream, gel or liquid.
- the preparations used according to the invention can be in two or more phases.
- Two-phase and multi-phase systems are systems in which there are at least two separate, continuous phases.
- an aqueous phase and one or more, for example two, non-miscible, non-aqueous phases can be present separately from one another.
- the invention further relates to a preparation for use in the method according to the invention.
- the preparation is preferably aqueous and contains (a) 0.01 to 20% by weight of cystine and (b) 0.01 to 20% by weight of at least one dicarboxylic acid with 2 to 10 carbon atoms, as defined in the preceding text, in each case related on the total weight of the preparation.
- surfactants are suitable as active substances.
- the term surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
- anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
- amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
- cationic surfactants which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group
- nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
- Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in "H.- D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994". The definition given above can be found from p. 190 in this publication.
- anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 C-atoms.
- anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 C-atoms.
- glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule.
- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x O or 1 to 12,
- Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
- R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
- R 2 for hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1 or X, n for numbers from 1 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently represent hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical, is sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (III) R 7 CO (AlkO) n SO 3 M (III) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or
- R 8 CO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
- Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates which are suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene sulfide adducts in the form of their ethylene sulfide adducts or their ethylene oxide trioxide.
- Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are preferably used, in which R 8 CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE -A1 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),
- Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in EP 0690044, condensation products from C 8 -C 3 o -fatty alcohols with protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to those skilled in the art Protein fatty acid condensates are known, such as the Lamepon® ® - types Gluadin® ® - types Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
- Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglycer disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and
- Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ or -SOa ⁇ group in the molecule.
- Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2 -Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
- a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid
- Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts
- suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
- Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are the N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, the cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the C 12 -
- Nonionic surfactants contain e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such connections are, for example
- R 1 CO- (OCH 2 CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (V) in the R 1 CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 2 for hydrogen or methyl
- R 3 for linear or branched alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20,
- Sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates
- R 4 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
- G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
- p represents numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant procedures in preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature here is the review by Biermann et al. in Starch /force 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J. Kahre et al. in S ⁇ FW Journal Issue 8, 598 (1995).
- the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
- the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
- the index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
- the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number.
- Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1, 4 lies.
- the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, from hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
- the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,
- R 5 CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 6 for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- [Z] for a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
- the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, one Fatty acid alkyl esters or a fatty acid chloride can be obtained. With regard to the processes for their production, reference is made to US Pat. Nos.
- the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose.
- the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (VIII):
- the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures.
- R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group
- R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselini
- Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred.
- the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
- alkylene oxide adducts with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
- the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
- nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These can be contained in the preparations used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the entire preparation. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight are very particularly preferred.
- the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
- both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used.
- “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained as catalysts from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates.
- narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth Lime metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates can be used as catalysts.
- the use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
- the preparation can contain a complexing agent, for example EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid, a phosphonic acid or mixtures of these substances.
- a complexing agent for example EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid, a phosphonic acid or mixtures of these substances.
- polyols such as, for example, glycerol and partial glycerol ether, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediols, for example 1 , 2-pentanediol, hexanediols, for example 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol, dodecanediol, in particular 1, 2-dodecanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol.
- 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol and 1,3-butanediol have proven to be particularly suitable.
- polyols are preferably present in the preparations used according to the invention in amounts of 1-10, in particular 2-10,% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
- “Miscible with water” is understood to mean those alcohols which are not more than 10% by weight, based on the water mass, soluble in water at 20 ° C.
- Fat substances can be used as further active substances. Fats are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms in amounts of 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent, can be used as fatty acids. Saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 3 carbon atoms in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, based on the entire preparation, can be used as fatty alcohols.
- Natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can be used as active ingredients according to the invention are in particular:
- oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil.
- Other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
- the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
- the amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies used in the preparations used according to the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the overall preparation, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15% by weight. -%.
- the total amount of oil and fat components in the preparations according to the invention is usually 0.1-75% by weight, based on the entire preparation. Quantities of 0.1-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention. Furthermore, it has been shown that polymers are advantageously used in the process according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, polymers are therefore added to the preparations used according to the invention, with both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven to be effective.
- Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
- polymers which have a cationic group irrespective of the pH of the preparation are referred to as "permanently cationic".
- These are usually polymers that contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
- Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
- those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is linked via a C1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be particularly suitable.
- R 2 , R 3 and R 4 represent methyl groups m has the value 2.
- Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions.
- halide ions in particular chloride, are preferred.
- a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
- the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ether of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
- Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
- the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
- a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight.
- Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral OH) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (approx.
- Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (II) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, C 1 -C 4 -alkyl acrylate and C 1 -C 4 -alkyl methacrylate as nonionic monomer units.
- acrylamide is particularly preferred.
- These copolymers can, as in the case of the homopolymers described above can be crosslinked.
- a preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide
- Methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92nd
- Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® Quaternized cellulose derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® .
- the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives,
- honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
- cationic guar derivatives such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia ® Guar and Jaguar ® ,
- - polysiloxanes with quaternary groups such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone ), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80),
- Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as are offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
- Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
- cationic polymers that can be used according to the invention are the so-called “temporarily cationic” polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which is present as a quaternary ammonium group at certain pH values and is therefore cationic. Preferably, for example, are chitosan and its derivatives, such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB /.
- preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.
- the anionic polymers which can be used in the preparations of the process according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
- anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
- the acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
- Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
- Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be present in whole or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
- copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferred.
- anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
- Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.
- Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups.
- a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
- This copolymer can also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide are used.
- anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
- Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether are also very suitable polymers.
- a cross-linked with 1, 9-Decadiene-methyl vinyl ether maleic acid copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
- amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers in all aqueous preparations of the process according to the invention.
- amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule ' - or -S ⁇ 3 " groups, and summarized such polymers that contain -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
- amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
- Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
- amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2 104 091, European Patent Application 47 714, European Patent Application 217 274, European Patent Application 283 817 and German Patent Application 28 17 369.
- Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another
- these compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralizing the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
- an alkali metal hydroxide for example, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sulfate
- nonionic polymers can be contained in all aqueous preparations of the process according to the invention. It may be preferred to use them in the preparation (O).
- Suitable nonionic polymers are for example:
- Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
- cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropylcellulose, as they are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON).
- siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. at normal pressure.
- Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and also polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
- the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.
- the polymers are preferably present in the preparations used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the entire preparation. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.
- Protein hydrolyzates and / or, in addition to cystine, further amino acids and their derivatives may also be present in the preparations used according to the invention.
- Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins).
- protein hydrolyzates according to the invention total hydrolysates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids are understood.
- polymers constructed from amino acids and amino acid derivatives are furthermore to be understood under the term protein hydrolyzates.
- the latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
- Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
- ß-amino acids and their derivatives such as ß-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention.
- the molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
- protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin can be used.
- Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Kerasol ® (Croda) sold.
- protein hydrolysates of plant origin e.g. B. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), Hydrolupin ® (Croda), Hydrosesame ® (Croda), Hydrotritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
- amino acid mixtures obtained in some other way can optionally be used in their place. It is also possible to use derivatives of the pro teinhydrolysate, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
- the protein hydrolyzates or their derivatives are preferably present in the preparations used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the entire preparation. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
- 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and / or their derivatives can be used in the preparations of the process according to the invention.
- Preferred are the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries one to three C to C 4 alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen.
- the sodium salt is very particularly preferred.
- the amounts used in the preparations according to the invention are 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the preparation as a whole, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight.
- vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives has also proven to be advantageous.
- Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.
- the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
- the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
- vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate come into consideration as vitamin A components.
- the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
- the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include
- Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
- nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinamide, which is preferably present in the preparations used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the preparation as a whole.
- panthenol and / or pantolactone is preferably used.
- Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
- the compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are preferably present in the preparations used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the preparation as a whole. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
- Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
- Vitamin C ascorbic acid
- Vitamin C is preferably used in the preparations used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
- Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
- Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol).
- Vitamin F usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
- Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which the trivial name biotin has now become established. Biotin is contained in the preparations used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
- the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
- Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
- plant extracts can be used in the preparations of the method according to the invention.
- extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
- the extracts from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.
- Alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned.
- alcohols lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred, both as the sole extracting agent and as a mixture with water.
- Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
- the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.
- hydroxycarboxylic acids and in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and
- polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di, tri and polycarboxylic acids. It has been shown that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures from hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred.
- Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
- Other basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
- esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 carbon atoms, for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
- the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
- Particularly preferred polyhydroxy polycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and poly-tartaric acid and their esters.
- emulsifiers are used in the preparations of the process according to the invention.
- Emulsifiers cause water or oil-stable adsorption layers to form at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
- surfactants emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
- An emulsion is to be understood as a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the use of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
- the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers is based on the substances to be dispersed and the particular external phase as well as the fine particle size of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H. -D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994".
- Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
- Ci 2 -C 22 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products from 1 to 30
- Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids that are attached to the C atom
- Tissues as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols) can be isolated.
- zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.
- phytosterols examples include ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol.
- Sterols the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from mushrooms and yeasts.
- Phospholipids include primarily the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphididylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds
- Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
- Polyglycerols and polyglycerol such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls® ® PGPH)
- the preparations according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.1-3% by weight, based on the entire preparation.
- the preparations according to the invention can preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New in Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz) York, (1997), page 1764.
- Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 can be particularly preferred according to the invention.
- Heterocyclic compounds such as derivatives of imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine can be used as further active substances.
- Derivatives of these compounds are furthermore suitable, such as, for example, the C 4 alkyl derivatives, C 1 hydroxyalkyl derivatives and C 4 aminoalkyl derivatives.
- Preferred substituents which can be positioned both on carbon atoms and on nitrogen atoms of the heterocyclic ring systems are methyl, ethyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl and ⁇ -aminoethyl groups. These derivatives preferably contain 1 or 2 of these substituents.
- heterocyclic compounds preferred according to the invention are, for example, 1-methylimidazole, 2-methylimidazole, 4 (5) -methylimidazole, 1,2-dimethylimidazole, 2-ethylimidazole, 2-isopropylimidazole, N-methylpyrrolidone, 1-methylpiperidine, 4-methylpiperidine, 2- Ethyl piperidine, 4-methylmorpholine, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) morpholine, 1-ethylpiperazine, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine, 1- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine.
- Imidazole derivatives preferred according to the invention are biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole.
- heterocyclic active substances the mono- and dialkylimidazoles, biotin and hydantoin are particularly preferred.
- These heterocyclic compounds are present in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation. Amounts of 2 to 6% by weight have proven to be particularly suitable.
- amino acids and amino acid derivatives according to the invention are amino acids and amino acid derivatives according to the invention. From the group of amino acids, arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine in particular have proven to be suitable according to the invention.
- the amino acids can be used both as free amino acids and as salts, e.g. B. can be used as hydrochloride.
- oligopeptides consisting of an average of 2-3 amino acids, which have a high proportion (> 50%, in particular> 70%) of the amino acids mentioned, have also proven to be usable according to the invention.
- Arginine and its salts and arginine-rich oligopeptides are particularly preferred according to the invention.
- amino acids or derivatives are contained in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation. Amounts of 2 to 6% by weight have proven to be particularly suitable.
- the preparations according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents.
- penetration aids and / or swelling agents include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1st , 6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol
- the preparations according to the invention can contain waving power-boosting components, in particular urea, imidazole and the diols mentioned above.
- waving power-boosting components in particular urea, imidazole and the diols mentioned above.
- the waving-strengthening compounds can be present in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the entire preparation. Amounts of 1 to 4% by weight have proven to be sufficient, which is why these amounts are particularly preferred.
- a stabilizer which is customary for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparations is preferably also used.
- the pH of such aqueous H 2 O 2 preparations which usually contain about 0.5 to 15% by weight, usually about 0.5 to 3% by weight, of H 2 O ready for use, is preferred at 2 to 6, in particular 2 to 4; it is adjusted by acids, preferably phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids and / or dipicolinic acid.
- Bromate-based fixatives usually contain the bromates in concentrations of 1 to 10% by weight and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. According to the invention, the use of fixative concentrates which are diluted with water before use can be particularly preferred.
- Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase are preferred, but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase. Furthermore, the procedure should be mentioned to increase the effect of small amounts (e.g. 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
- the fixing agents according to the invention can also be formulated as solids. They then contain the oxidizing agent in the form of a solid, e.g. Potassium or sodium bromate. It is also possible and preferred to formulate the oxidizing agent as a two-component system. The two components, one of which is preferably a hydrogen peroxide solution or an aqueous solution of another oxidizing agent and the other of which contains the other constituents, in particular caring substances and / or reducing agents, are likewise only mixed shortly before use.
- the preparations used in step (b) of the process according to the invention can contain, as surface-active compounds, cationic surfactants of the type of the quaternary ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
- Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B.
- cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quatemium-27 and Quaternium-83.
- the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
- Ester quats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
- Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
- Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex ® , Dehyquart ® and Armocare ® .
- alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
- An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
- the cationic surfactants are preferably present in the preparations used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the preparation as a whole. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.
- conditioning agents are silicone oils and silicone gums, especially dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs.
- silicone oils and silicone gums especially dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs.
- silicones are the Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 products sold and the commercial product Fancorsil ® LIM first
- conditioning agents according to the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning® 939 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also known as amodimethicone) ), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer adherer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).
- a suitable anionic silicone oil is the product Dow Coming ® 1784.
- Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
- hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
- Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
- active ingredients which improve fiber structure in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
- paraffin oils such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, e.g. B. sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil as well
- quaternized amines such as methyl 1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
- anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol
- - opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
- Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, - pigments,
- Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
- the preparations according to the invention can be used in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, rinses, aerosols and gels, as well as in hair colorants, or else in agents for textile or fiber treatment in the form of detergents, fabric softeners, impregnations and finishes.
- the t-test a statistical evaluation with which the series of measurements are compared on both sides, in pairs, gives percentage probabilities with which the series of measurements are differentiated (distinction: 90-95% series of measurements tend to be differentiated,> 95% series of measurements significantly differentiated, > 99% highly significant differences in measurement series).
- the hair is then rinsed with water for 5 minutes.
- Example according to the invention analogous treatment, in which 1% of a mixture of equal parts by weight of L-cystine and succinic acid had been added to the cold wave used in step a).
- succinic acid leads to significant hair strengthening.
- succinic acid in the permanent wave process one can observe an increase in the modulus of elasticity, the gradient, the tension values, and the work, from which one can see an improvement in the structure.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
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DE502005002453T DE502005002453D1 (de) | 2004-05-18 | 2005-04-08 | Verfahren zur restrukturierung keratinischer fasern |
US11/569,123 US20080262085A1 (en) | 2004-05-18 | 2005-04-08 | Method For Restructuring Keratin Fibers |
AU2005247068A AU2005247068A1 (en) | 2004-05-18 | 2005-04-08 | Method for restructuring keratin fibers |
EP05732176A EP1812117B1 (de) | 2004-05-18 | 2005-04-08 | Verfahren zur restrukturierung keratinischer fasern |
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US8128916B2 (en) * | 2005-06-16 | 2012-03-06 | L'oréal | Aqueous fatty quaternary amine-containing carrier systems for water-insoluble materials |
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US1985424A (en) * | 1933-03-23 | 1934-12-25 | Ici Ltd | Alkylene-oxide derivatives of polyhydroxyalkyl-alkylamides |
US2703798A (en) * | 1950-05-25 | 1955-03-08 | Commercial Solvents Corp | Detergents from nu-monoalkyl-glucamines |
US5362486A (en) * | 1992-04-10 | 1994-11-08 | Helene Curtis, Inc. | In-situ polymerization of oligomers onto hair |
CA2116299A1 (en) * | 1993-02-24 | 1994-08-25 | Daniel Taylor Mcbride | Method for improving the bleach resistance of dyed textile fiber and product made thereby |
DE19617395A1 (de) * | 1995-06-26 | 1997-01-02 | Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans | Haarfärbemittel mit mindestens einem Pflegestoff |
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- 2004-05-18 DE DE102004024506A patent/DE102004024506A1/de not_active Withdrawn
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2005
- 2005-04-08 DE DE502005002453T patent/DE502005002453D1/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2005-04-08 AT AT05732176T patent/ATE382395T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2005-04-08 EP EP05732176A patent/EP1812117B1/de not_active Not-in-force
- 2005-04-08 US US11/569,123 patent/US20080262085A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2005-04-08 WO PCT/EP2005/003696 patent/WO2005115314A1/de active IP Right Grant
- 2005-04-08 RU RU2006144712/15A patent/RU2006144712A/ru not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2005-04-08 AU AU2005247068A patent/AU2005247068A1/en not_active Abandoned
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US4412943A (en) * | 1981-02-23 | 1983-11-01 | Kao Soap Co., Ltd. | Liquid detergent composition |
EP1226814A1 (de) * | 1999-11-04 | 2002-07-31 | Kao Corporation | Detergenzmittel |
DE10051774A1 (de) * | 2000-10-19 | 2002-04-25 | Henkel Kgaa | Neue Verwendung von kurzkettigen Carbonsäuren |
Cited By (22)
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DE102015222946A1 (de) | 2015-11-20 | 2017-05-24 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Haar schonende Mittel und Verfahren zur oxidativen Haarfärbung oder Blondierung |
WO2017085117A1 (de) | 2015-11-20 | 2017-05-26 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Haar schonende mittel und verfahren zur oxidativen haarfärbung oder blondierung |
RU2749263C2 (ru) * | 2015-11-20 | 2021-06-07 | Хенкель Аг Унд Ко. Кгаа | Щадящие волосы средства и способ окислительного окрашивания волос или блондирования |
DE102015223196A1 (de) | 2015-11-24 | 2017-05-24 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Mittel und Verfahren zur Reinigung und/oder zur Pflege geschädigter keratinischer Fasern |
DE102015225137A1 (de) | 2015-12-14 | 2017-06-14 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Oxidationsmittel zur oxidativen Färbe- und Blondierbehandlung keratinischer Fasern mit reduzierter Schädigung |
WO2017102582A1 (de) | 2015-12-14 | 2017-06-22 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Oxidationsmittel zur oxidativen färbe- und blondierbehandlung keratinischer fasern mit reduzierter schädigung |
DE102016200688A1 (de) | 2016-01-20 | 2017-07-20 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Keratinfaserschonende Mittel und Verfahren zur oxidativen Haarfärbung |
WO2017125191A1 (de) | 2016-01-20 | 2017-07-27 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Keratinfaserschonende mittel und verfahren zur oxidativen haarfärbung |
WO2017207629A1 (de) | 2016-05-31 | 2017-12-07 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Haar schonende mittel und verfahren zur oxidativen haarfärbung oder blondierung mit ausgewählten dicarbonsäuren |
US11033483B2 (en) | 2016-05-31 | 2021-06-15 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Paste-like bleaching agent and method for gentle oxidative hair lightening |
DE102016209471A1 (de) | 2016-05-31 | 2017-11-30 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Blondiermittel und Verfahren zur schonenden oxidativen Haaraufhellung I |
WO2017207630A1 (de) | 2016-05-31 | 2017-12-07 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Ausgewählte dicarbonsäuren in haar schonenden mittel und verfahren zur oxidativen haarfärbung oder blondierung |
WO2017207631A1 (de) | 2016-05-31 | 2017-12-07 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Schonende mittel und verfahren zur oxidativen färbung mit ausgewählten dicarbonsäuren |
WO2017207198A1 (de) | 2016-05-31 | 2017-12-07 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Blondiermittel und verfahren zur schonenden oxidativen haaraufhellung i |
WO2017207191A1 (de) | 2016-05-31 | 2017-12-07 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Pastenförmiges blondiermittel |
US11033477B2 (en) | 2016-05-31 | 2021-06-15 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Blonding agent and method for gentle oxidative hair lightening |
US10987291B2 (en) | 2016-05-31 | 2021-04-27 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Gentle agents and methods for oxidative dyeing using selected dicarboxylic acids |
DE102016209464A1 (de) | 2016-05-31 | 2017-11-30 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Pastenförmiges Blondiermittel und Verfahren zur schonenden oxidativen Haaraufhellung |
DE102016209468A1 (de) | 2016-05-31 | 2017-11-30 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Haar schonende Mittel und Verfahren zur oxidativen Haarfärbung oder Blondierung mit ausgewählten Dicarbonsäuren |
DE102016213441A1 (de) | 2016-07-22 | 2018-01-25 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Haar schonende Mittel und Verfahren zur oxidativen Haarfärbung mit verbesserter Aufhellleistung |
EP4248940A1 (de) | 2022-03-25 | 2023-09-27 | Wella Germany GmbH | Zusammensetzung zur verstärkung von keratinfasern |
WO2023180560A1 (en) | 2022-03-25 | 2023-09-28 | Wella Germany Gmbh | Composition for enhancing keratin fibers |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
US20080262085A1 (en) | 2008-10-23 |
EP1812117A1 (de) | 2007-08-01 |
ATE382395T1 (de) | 2008-01-15 |
RU2006144712A (ru) | 2008-06-27 |
DE502005002453D1 (de) | 2008-02-14 |
DE102004024506A1 (de) | 2005-12-15 |
AU2005247068A1 (en) | 2005-12-08 |
EP1812117B1 (de) | 2008-01-02 |
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