WO2005070374A1

WO2005070374A1 - Hair care composition

Info

Publication number: WO2005070374A1
Application number: PCT/EP2004/014778
Authority: WO
Inventors: Stuart Keith Pratley; Aart Willem Van Vuure
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever Nv; Hindustan Lever Limited
Priority date: 2004-01-21
Filing date: 2004-12-23
Publication date: 2005-08-04
Also published as: BRPI0418058A; JP2007518751A

Abstract

A personal care composition comprising: i) an aqueous lamella phase comprising: a) cationic surfactant; and b) fatty alcohol having a melting point than 35°C and/or fatty acid having a melting point greater than 40°C. ii) an oil phase comprising: c) one or more non-volatile oils, the viscosity of any single non-volatile oil or the viscosity of a blend of non-volatile oils being less than 1000 mPa.s at 35°C and 5 s-1; and d) an oil dispersible structurant such that the viscosity of the oil phase at 35°C, prior to mixing with the aqueous lamella phase, is at least 8,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s-1 and is less than 6,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 5000 s-1.

Description

HAIR CARE COMPOSITION

Field of the Invention

This invention relates to personal care compositions, in particular to hair care compositions, especially those that can style the hair.

Background and Prior Art

Creams are frequently used in the personal care industry. A major disadvantage with using creams is that they have a tendency to feel sticky both in the pot before use and on application. This is a particular problem with hair styling products which have a tendency to feel sticky on the hands when applying and on the hair after styling.

The present invention is a composition that helps mitigate the problem of stickiness, without any detrimental effect on styling efficacy.

Further advantages of the compositions of the present invention are: they can be used to maintain a style; enable re-styling of hair; condition hair; reduce hair damage; provide hair shine; provide a wet look; control hair volume and align the hair. Description of the Present Invention

According to the present invention, there is provided a personal care composition comprising : i) an aqueous lamella phase comprising: a) cationic surfactant; b) fatty alcohol having a melting point greater than 35°C and/or fatty acid having a melting point greater than 40 °C; ii) at least 3 wt . % of the total composition of an oil phase comprising: c) one or more non-volatile oils, the viscosity of any single non-volatile oil or the viscosity of a blend of non-volatile oils being less than 1000 mPa.s at 35°C and 5 s^_:L;and d) an oil dispersible structurant such that the viscosity of the oil phase at 35°C, prior to mixing with the aqueous lamella phase, is at least 8,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s^~x and is less than 6,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 500 s^""1.

The invention also relates to a method of styling hair by applying to the hair a composition as described above.

Further described is a method of treating hair with a composition such that after application part of the composition evaporates or absorbs into the hair to leave a residue on the hair, where the residue has a dynamic viscosity at 35°C of at least 50,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s^"1, and less than 6,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 500 s^"1. The invention also relates to the use of a hair composition as described above for styling hair, maintaining a style, enabling re-styling of hair, conditioning hair, reducing hair damage, providing hair shine, providing a wet look and/or controlling hair volume or alignment.

Detailed Description of the Invention

Although the composition may be in any form it is preferable if it is in the form of a cream. In the context of the present invention a cream is defined as not immediately pourable under gravity.

It is preferable if the viscosity of the final composition is from 2,000 to 300,000 mPa.s at 5 s-1 and 25°C, more preferably from 10,000 to 300,000 mPa.s, most preferably from 20,000 to 200,000 mPa . s . It is highly preferable if the viscosity is from 30,000 to 150,000 mPa.s

The viscosity of the fluids was determined with a standard stress controlled rheometer (this case Carrimed CSL-100) , using a parallel plate configuration at a gap height of 200 μm and by measuring viscosity at a range of shear rates. The Lamella Phase

Cationic Surfactant

Suitable cationic surfactants comprise one or more conditioning surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the invention contain amino or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic moieties, which are positively charged when, dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention.

Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are those corresponding to the general formula:

[N(R!) (R₂) (R₃) (R₄)]⁺ (X)

in which Ri, R₂, R₃, and R₄ are independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate radicals.

The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.

Examples of suitable cationic surfactants include: quaternary ammonium chlorides, e.g. alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides wherein the alkyl group has from about 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyl tri ethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzyl-ammonium chloride, stearyldi- methylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow trimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, and the corresponding salts thereof, e.g., bromides, hydroxides. Cetylpyridinium chloride or salts thereof, e.g., chlorideQuaternium -5, Quaternium -31, Quaternium -18 and mixtures thereof.

Preferred are stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, hardened tallow trimethyl ammonium chloride, particularly preferred cationic surfactants are cetrimonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, di hardened-tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride,

N,N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) methyl octadecenyl ammonium chloride or mixtures thereof. In the conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.05 to 12, more preferably 0.1 to 8, most preferably 0.2 to 5 wt% of the total composition.

Fatty acid/Fatty alcohol

The composition has as an essential feature of the invention a fatty alcohol having a melting point greater than 35°C and/or a fatty acid having a melting point greater than 40 °C, more preferably the fatty acid has a melting point greater than 50°C.

The level of fatty alcohol and/or fatty acid within phase i) of the composition is from 0.2 wt% to 15 wt% of the total composition, more preferably from 0.3 wt% to 10 wt%.

The fatty alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

The fatty acid is preferably a Clβ to C22 acid. Examples of suitable fatty acids include palmitic acid and stearic acid.

It is preferable if the ratio of fatty acid and or fatty alcohol (i.e. component b) to total cationic surfactant

(component a) within the lamella phase is from 0.5 to 10.0, preferably from 1 to 10.0, and most preferably from 1.0 to 7.0. The Oil Phase

It is advantageous, for styling hair, if the oil phase at 35°C prior to addition to the lamella phase has a yield stress of at least 500 Pa, preferably a yield stress of at least 1,000 Pa.

The yield stress of a fluid is defined as the critical stress at which a sharp drop in viscosity is observed, typically a few orders of magnitude of viscosity drop when the stress is increasing less than an order of 2. The yield stress is associated with a collapse in the structure of the fluid.

It is also preferable if the oil phase prior to mixing with the lamella phase when sheared to a point past its yield point has a recovery ratio of at least 5 %, more preferably at least 10 % and most preferably at least 15%.

The recovery ratio of the structured oil phase is defined in the context of the present invention as the viscosity of the oil phase at a shear rate of 0.5 s^_1 after having been sheared beyond its yield stress (the maximum shear rate used to induce yield was 500 s^"1) , normalised to the viscosity of the oil phase at a shear rate of 0.5 s^"1 before having been sheared beyond its yield point. Thus the measuring protocol was to measure the viscosity whilst ramping up the shear rate from 0.5 s^_1 to 500 s^"1 over a period of 5 minutes, immediately followed by a shear rate ramp down from 500 s^_1 to 0.5 s^-1 over 5 minutes. It is beneficial if the residue of the composition after application on hair, when part of the composition evaporates or absorbs into the hair, has rheological properties, (dynamic viscosities at 0.5 and 500 s-1, yield stress and recovery ratio) at 35°C which are within a factor of 2 of the rheological properties of the oil phase prior to mixing wit the lamella phase.

The residue is defined as the material, which stays behind on the hair after application of the composition to hair. After application of the composition, the water in the composition will typically be absorbed by the hair and any volatiles in the composition will evaporate. It is understood that the water in the composition is absorbed by the hair within a few minutes after application, if the composition is applied to dry or slightly damp hair. To simulate the residue, composition is dried in a petri-dish at ambient temperature in standard conditions (20°C and 50% RH) for 72 hours. The composition residue typically contains less than 10% of remaining water.

Non-Volatile Oils

The composition comprises one or more non-volatile oils, where the dynamic viscosity of any single non-volatile oil or the dynamic viscosity of a blend of non-volatile oils is less than 1000 mPa.s at 35°C at 5 s^_1. Preferably the viscosity is less than 500 mPa.s at 35°C at 5 s^"1, more preferably less than 100 mPa.s, most preferably less than 50 mPa. s .

A non-volatile oil is defined such that when the emollient is placed in a petri-dish in a room at standard environmental conditions (20^c, 50%RH) at a fluid height of 3 mm, after 1 hour less than 10 wt% of the emollient will have evaporated.

Oils can be selected from the group consisting of triglycerides, fatty esters, mineral oils (branched hydrocarbons) or mixtures thereof.

Preferably the non-volatile oil is selected from the group consisting of triheptanoin, tricaprylin, tricaprin, triundecanoin, trilinolein, triolein, almond oil, coconut oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, mineral oil with an average chain length above 20 carbon atoms, isocetyl stearate, dicaprylate/dicaprate propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

Suitable mineral oils are those sold under the name Sirius White Oils by Fuchs Lubricants (UK) . Examples of suitable oils are Sirius M85, Sirius M125 and Sirius M350.

Other suitable oils are silicone oils, for example dimethicone, with viscosity as previously defined.

The level of the oil phase within the total composition is preferably greater than 10 wt% of the total composition, more preferably greater than 20 wt%. Oil Structurant

The structurant is oil dispersible.

Suitable structurants are selected from the group consisting of hydrophobic silica or preferably a hydrophobically modified clay such as stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite or disteardimonium hectorite and derivatives or mixtures of these.

If the structurant is a hydrophobically modified clay it is preferable if the oil phase further contains a polar activator. A polar activator polarises the edges of the hydrophobically modified clay platelets so the clay platelets form a network structure when dispersed in oil through polar interaction. Suitable polar activators are propylene carbonate with about 5 wt% water or an ethanol/water 95:5 mixture.

The structurant should be chosen such that the dynamic viscosity of the structured oil phase at 35°C prior to addition to the emulsion is at least 8,000, more preferably at least 50,000, most preferably at least 100,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s^_1, and is less than 6,000, more preferably less than 4,000, most preferably less than 2,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 500 s^"1 . A highly preferred oil phase has a dynamic viscosity at 35°C of at least 200,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s^-1 and a dynamic viscosity of 2,000 mPa.s or less at a shear rate of 500 s^_1. The level of structurant within the oil phase is preferably from 0.5 to 20 wt% of the total oil content in the formulation.

Surfactant system

The composition may further comprise a nonionic surfactant or mixtures of nonionic surfactants. Particularly preferred are isolaureth-6 or POE hydrogenated castor oil (preferably having 40 POE) . The level of surfactant is preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt% of the total composition.

Styling compound

In some aspects of this invention it is desirable if the composition comprises an additional styling aid.

Particularly useful as styling aids with this invention are hair styling polymers. Hair styling polymers are well known articles of commerce and many such polymers are available commercially, particularly preferred are polymers that are nonionic in nature. The polymers may be synthetic or naturally derived.

The amount of the hair styling polymer may range from 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 8 %, more preferably 0.75 to 6% by weight based on total weight of the composition.

Examples of nonionic hair styling polymers are homopolymers of N- vinylpyrrolidone and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with compatible nonionic monomers such as vinyl acetate. Nonionic polymers containing N- vinylpyrrolidone in various weight average molecular weights are available commercially from ISP Corporation - specific examples of such materials are homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone having an average molecular weight of about 630,000 sold under the name PVP K- 90 and homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone having an average molecular weight of about 1,000,000 sold under the name of PVP K-120. Particularly preferred is a copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and polyvinyl acetate. An example of this copolymer is sold by BASF under the name Luviskol VA64.

Further components

Styling products frequently include a carrier and further additional components. The carriers and additional components required to formulate such products vary with product type and can be routinely chosen by one skilled in the art. The following is a description of some of these carriers and additional components.

An aqueous phase thickener is preferably present and can be based on a cellulose derivative, in particular hydroxyethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose or mixtures thereof. Such aqueous phase thickeners are typically present in an amount from 0.01% to 10% by weight.

Hair care compositions of the present invention can comprise a carrier, or a mixture of such carriers, which are suitable for application to the hair. The carriers are present at from about 0.5% to about 99.5%, preferably from about 5.0% to about 99.5%, more preferably from about 10.0% to about 98.0%, of the composition. As used herein, the phrase "suitable for application to hair" means that the carrier does not damage or negatively affect the aesthetics of hair or cause irritation to the underlying skin.

Compositions according to the invention comprise a buffer or pH adjuster.. Preferred buffers or pH adjusters include weak acids and bases such as glycine/sodium hydroxide, citric acid, triethanolamine, lactic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid and salts thereof. Frequently a mixture of buffering system is used such as sodium citrate and citric acid.

Carriers suitable for use with hair care compositions of the present invention include; for example, those commonly used in creams. The carriers used herein can include a wide range of components conventionally used in hair care compositions. The carriers can contain a solvent to dissolve or disperse the styling compound being used, with water, the Ci-Cβ alcohols, lower alkyl acetate and mixtures thereof being preferred. The carriers can also contain a wide variety of additional materials such as acetone, hydrocarbons (such as isobutane, hexane, decene) , water, ethanol, volatile silicone derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The solvents used in such mixtures may be miscible or immiscible with each other.

The carrier can include a wide variety of further conditioning materials suitable for hair such as quaternary . silicone polymers; silicone based conditioners and their emulsions, and amino functional silicones and their emulsions. The viscosity of these conditioning silicones is greater than 10,000 mPa.s at 35°C and 5 s^_1.

Further general ingredients suitable for all product forms include sun-screening agents, preservatives, anti-oxidants, anti-dandruff actives, and emulsifiers for emulsifying the various carrier components of the compositions of the invention.

The compositions of the present invention may also contain adjuncts suitable for hair care. Generally such ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 2, preferably up to 1 wt% of the total composition. Suitable hair care adjuncts include amino acids, sugars and ceramides.

Compositions of the present invention are formulated into hair care compositions, especially products with hair styling claims. The compositions are for use in styling human hair and, more preferably, they are packaged and labeled as such.

It is preferred if these products are left on hair after application and not immediately washed off.

Alternatively these compounds may be used as rinse off hair formulations. Such formulations would be sold to condition the hair and accordingly would have the appropriate packaging. EXAMPLES

The following non-limiting Examples further illustrate the preferred embodiments of the invention. All percentages referred to in the examples and throughout this specification are by weight of active ingredient (non-water) based on total weight unless otherwise indicated.

A number illustrates examples of the invention; comparative examples are illustrated by a letter.

EXAMPLES

Examples 1, 2 and 3 comprise hair styling creams according to the invention, Example A does not conform to the invention.

The above creams were prepared as follows: The oil gel was prepared. For Examples 1 and 3 a 95/5 wt% mixture of propylene carbonate and water was prepared. Then the oil was heated to 50°C, propyl paraben was added and Bentone powder was added under high shear, after which the activator mixture was slowly added whilst mixing under high shear. For Example 2 the silica powder was added to the oil and mixed in under high shear.

The lamella phase creams were prepared by mixing the methyl paraben, BHT, CTAC and cetearyl alcohol in 70% of the total water at 75°C under low shear and then under vacuum at high shear. A hydroxyethyl cellulose dispersion was prepared in the remaining 30% of the water and heated to 75°C under low shear. The cellulose dispersion was then added to the initial mixture under low shear. In case of example A, the oil (tricaprylin) was now added. Five minutes of high shear under vacuum was then undertaken. The resultant mixture was slowly cooled to 40°C under low shear mixing. In case of example 3 the isolaureth-6 was now added. In case of examples 1,2 and 3 the oil gel was then added and mixed in under 5 minutes of high shear (vacuum) . Silicone fluid and phenoxy ethanol were then added. Triethanolamine was added to neutralise pH, followed by perfume. Finally high shear mixing under vacuum was conducted.

The components in the Examples had the following physical properties .

The Examples were applied to mannequin heads with short (average 8 cm) Caucasian hair. In the case of Example A it was impossible to create a very incongruent style with the hair standing up as the hair fibres fell back down almost immediately. However, for Examples 1, 2 and 3 it was clearly possible to create such a style with the hair standing up.

Examples 1, 2, 3 and A were evaluated by a trained quantitative consumer panel and the following results were obtained (attributes scored on a scale from 0 to 100) :

It is thus demonstrated that Examples according to the invention have better styling characteristics than the Comparative Example.

The following is a further example of a hair styling cream according to the invention.

The process was the same as for examples 1-3. The PVP/PVA was added at 75°C, after the addition of the hydroxyethyl cellulose. The non-ionic surfactant was added to the base before addition of the Bentone gel.

The product was stable, and when tested in a consumer test with 120 Hair Wax users against a conventional 40% oil emulsion based product (Japanese Mod's Hair Solid wax) the product gave good styling and was significantly better for feel.

The following formulations are examples of rinse-off hair conditioner formulations.

The components in the Examples had the following physical properties.

Examples 1, 6 and 7 were applied to shampood hair switches (straight, flat, 2.5 cm wide, 25 cm long hair switches with 5g of hair); 0.5 g of product was applied for 45 seconds after which the switches were rinsed thoroughly for 1 minute. The switches were then hung to dry, combed through and squeezed flat between the fingers. The next day the volume of the switches was assessed by measuring the frontal area of the switch by Image Analysis. Performance was benchmarked against one of our current commercial rinse-off conditioners (referred to as benchmark) . The test was performed in duplo.

The following results were obtained:

A clear volume down effect was observed, indicating significant volume benefits can be achieved from a rinse off application.

Claims

1. A personal care composition comprising :

i) an aqueous lamella phase comprising: a) cationic surfactant; and b) fatty alcohol having a melting point greater than 35°C and/or fatty acid having a melting point greater than 40 °C;

ii) at least 3 wt . % of the total composition of an oil phase comprising: c) one or more non-volatile oils, the viscosity of any single non-volatile oil or the viscosity of a blend of non-volatile oils being less than 1000 mPa.s at 35°C and 5 s^_1; and d) an oil dispersible structurant such that the viscosity of the oil phase at 35°C, prior to mixing with the aqueous lamella phase, is at least 8,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s^-1 and is less than 6,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 500 s^"1.

2. A personal care composition according to claim 1 in which the viscosity of the single oil or the viscosity of a blend of oils ii)c) is less than 50 mPa.s at 35°C and 5s^_1.

3. A personal care composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 in which at 35°C the oil phase ii) has a viscosity of at least 200,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s^-1 and a viscosity of 2,000 mPa.s or less at a shear rate of 500 s -i

4. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim in which the oil phase ii) at 35°C prior to mixing with the lamella phase has a yield stress of at least 500 Pa.

5. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim in which the structured oil phase ii) prior to mixing with the lamella phase when sheared to a point past its yield point has a recovery ratio of at least D R ΌS- .

6. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim where the non-volatile oil ii)c)is a triglyceride .

7. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim in which the oil dispersible structurant ii)d) is a hydrophobically modified clay or hydrophobic silica.

8. A personal care composition according to claim 7 which further comprises a polar activator.

9. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim in which the level of cationic surfactant i)a) is from 0.2 wt% to 5 wt% of the total composition.

10. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim in which the cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cetrimonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, di hardened-tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, N,N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) methyl octadecenyl ammonium chloride or mixtures thereof.

11. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim in which the level of fatty alcohol and/or fatty acid i)b) is from 0.3 wt% to 10 wt% of the total composition.

12. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim in which component i)b) within the lamella phase is a fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

13. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim which further comprises an aqueous phase thickener comprising hydroxyethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose or mixtures thereof.

14. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim, which further comprises a nonionic polymer.

15. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim, in which the composition further comprises a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of isolaureth-6, POE (40) hydrogenated castor oil or mixtures thereof.

16. A personal care composition according to any preceding claim which is in the form of a cream in which the viscosity of the final cream is between 30,000 and 150,000 mPa.s at 5 s-1 and 25°C.

17. A method of treating hair comprising the step of applying to the hair a composition as defined in any of the preceding claims.

18. A method of treating hair with a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 such that after application part of the composition evaporates or absorbs into the hair to leave a residue on the hair, where the residue has a dynamic viscosity at 35°C of at least 50,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s^"1, and less than 6,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 500 s^_1.

19. A method of treating hair according to claim 18 in which the residue at 35°C has a yield stress of at least 500 Pa.

20. A method of treating hair according to claim 18 or 19 in which the residue when sheared to a point past its yield point has a recovery ratio of at least 5%.

1. use of a personal care composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 16, for styling hair, maintaining a style, enabling re-styling of hair, conditioning hair, reducing hair damage, providing hair shine, providing a wet look and/or controlling hair volume or alignment.