JP2007518751A - Hair care composition - Google Patents

Abstract

i) Aqueous lamellar phase [this aqueous lamellar phase comprises a) a cationic surfactant and b) a fatty alcohol having a melting point higher than 35 ° C. and / or a fatty acid having a melting point higher than 40 ° C. ], Ii) oil phase [this oil phase is c) the viscosity of any one of the non-volatile oils or the mixture of the non-volatile oils at 35 ° C and 5s ^-1 is 1000 mPa. and d) the viscosity of the oil phase at 35 ° C. is at least 8,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s ⁻¹ prior to mixing with the aqueous lamellar phase. s at a shear rate of 5000 s ⁻¹ . and an oil dispersion structuring agent that is less than s. A personal care composition comprising:

Description

  The present invention relates to personal care compositions, in particular hair care compositions, especially those capable of styling hair.

  Creams are frequently used in the personal care industry. The main drawback associated with using creams is that they tend to have a sticky feel both in the container before use and upon application. This is particularly a problem associated with hair styling products that have a sticky feel in the hands upon application and in the hair after styling.

  The present invention is a composition that helps alleviate stickiness problems without any detrimental effect on the styling effect.

  Further advantages of the composition of the present invention are: maintaining style; allowing hair re-styling; conditioning hair; reducing hair damage; giving hair gloss; moist appearance They can be used to regulate hair volume; and to regulate hair flow.

According to the present invention: i) Aqueous lamellar phase
a) a cationic surfactant, and b) a fatty alcohol having a melting point higher than 35 ° C. and / or a fatty acid having a melting point higher than 40 ° C. ],
ii) at least 3% by weight of the total oil phase composition;
[The oil phase is
c) One or more non-volatile oils (the viscosity of any one of the non-volatile oils or the mixture of non-volatile oils is less than 1000 mPa.s at 35 ° C. and 5 s ⁻¹ ), And d) the viscosity of the oil phase at 35 ° C. is at least 8,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s ⁻¹ before mixing with the aqueous lamellar phase. s and 6,000 at a shear rate of 500 s ⁻¹
mPa. including an oil dispersion structuring agent such that it is less than s. ],
A personal care composition is provided.

  The present invention also relates to a method of styling hair by applying the composition described above to the hair.

After application, part of the composition evaporates or is absorbed into the hair and remains in the hair (the residue is at least 50,000 mPa.s at 35 ° C. with a shear rate of 0.5 s ⁻¹ , Further described is a method of treating hair with a composition that has a kinematic viscosity that is less than 6,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 500 s ⁻¹ . The present invention also provides hair styling, style maintenance, hair re-styling, hair conditioning, hair damage mitigation, hair gloss, moist appearance and / or hair volume or flow. Relates to the use of a hair composition as described above for the regulation of the hair.

Detailed Description of the Invention The composition can be in any form, but is preferably in the form of a cream. In the context of the present invention, cream is defined as something that cannot be poured easily under gravity.

The viscosity of the final composition is 2,000 to 300,000 mPa.s at 5 s ⁻¹ and 25 ° C. s, preferably 10,000 to 300,000 mPa.s. s, more preferably 20,000 to 200,000 mPa.s. s is most preferable. Its viscosity is 30,000 to 150,000 mPa.s. s is very preferable.

  Using a parallel plate arrangement with a gap height of 200 μm and by measuring the viscosity at a series of shear rates, the flow is measured using a standard stress controlled rheometer (in this case Carrimed CSL-100). The viscosity of the body was examined.

Lamella Phase Cationic Surfactant Suitable cationic surfactants contain one or more conditioning surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Cationic surfactants useful in the compositions of the invention contain an amino or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic moiety that is positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the invention.

  Examples of suitable cationic surfactants have the general formula

に対応するものである（式中、Ｒ_１、Ｒ_２、Ｒ_３及びＲ_４は、（ａ）１個から２２個の炭素原子の脂肪族基又は（ｂ）２２個以下の炭素原子を有する、芳香族、アルコキシ、ポリオキシアルキレン、アルキルアミド、ヒドロキシアルキル、アリール又はアルキルアリール基から独立に選択され；Ｘは、ハロゲン（例えば塩化物、臭化物）、酢酸塩、クエン酸塩、乳酸塩、グリコール酸塩、リン酸塩硝酸塩、硫酸塩及びアルキル硫酸塩基から選択されるものなどの、塩形成陰イオンである。）。

Wherein R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ have (a) an aliphatic group of 1 to 22 carbon atoms or (b) 22 or fewer carbon atoms. Independently selected from aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl groups; X is halogen (eg chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycol Salt-forming anions, such as those selected from acid salts, phosphate nitrates, sulfates and alkyl sulfate groups).

  Aliphatic groups may contain any of the other groups such as bonds and amino groups in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms. Long chain aliphatic groups can be saturated or unsaturated, such as those of about 12 carbons or more.

  Examples of suitable cationic surfactants include quaternary ammonium chloride, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethyl chloride, where the alkyl group has from about 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Ammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzyl-ammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, Dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow ammonium tallow chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride and the corresponding (E.g., bromide, hydroxide) are included. Cetylpyridinium chloride or a salt thereof (eg, chloride quaternium-5, quaternium-31, quaternium-18, and mixtures thereof).

  Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and trimethylammonium chloride-cured tallow are preferred, and particularly preferred cationic surfactants are cetrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, di-cured tallow dimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, N, N- Bis (2-hydroxyethyl) methyloctadecenylammonium or a mixture thereof.

  In the conditioner of the invention, the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.05 to 12, more preferably from 0.1 to 8, most preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight of the total composition. is there.

Fatty Acid / Fatty Alcohol The composition has a fatty alcohol having a melting point higher than 35 ° C. and / or a fatty acid having a melting point higher than 40 ° C., more preferably the fatty acid has a melting point higher than 50 ° C. It has the essential characteristics of the present invention.

  The level of fatty alcohol and / or fatty acid in phase i) of the composition is from 0.2% to 15%, more preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight of the total composition.

  This fatty alcohol is preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

  The fatty acid is preferably a C16 to C22 acid. Examples of suitable fatty acids include palmitic acid and stearic acid.

  The ratio of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol (ie component b) in the lamellar phase to the whole cationic surfactant (component a) is preferably 0.5 to 10.0, preferably 1 to 10 0.0, most preferably from 1.0 to 7.0.

Oil Phase For hair styling, it is advantageous if the oil phase has a yield stress of at least 500 Pa and at least 1,000 Pa yield stress at 35 ° C. before adding to the lamellar phase. Is preferred.

  The yield stress of a fluid is defined as the critical stress at which a sudden drop in viscosity is observed, and when the stress increases below the order of 2, usually the magnitude of the viscosity decreases by a few orders. Yield stress is related to the collapse of the structure of the fluid.

  If the oil phase is sheared to a point past its yield point before mixing with the lamellar phase, it is also preferred to have a recovery of at least 5%, more preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 15%. % Is most preferred.

The recovery rate of the structured oil phase was, in the context of the present invention, after shearing beyond its yield stress (the maximum shear rate used to induce yield was 500 s ⁻¹ ). is defined as the viscosity of the oil phase at a shear rate of 0.5 s ^-1, prior to shearing beyond its yield stress, normalized to the viscosity of the oil phase at a shear rate of 0.5 s ^-1 The Therefore, the measurement protocol, is increased from 0.5 s ^-1 over 5 minutes to a shear rate of 500 s ^-1, immediately after, while reducing the shear rate from 500 s ^-1 to 0.5 s ^-1 over 5 minutes, the viscosity Was to measure.

If a portion of the composition evaporates or is absorbed by the hair after application to the hair, the residue of the composition will remain in the oil phase before mixing with the lamellar phase at 35 ° C. It is advantageous to have rheological properties (kinematic viscosity, yield stress and recovery rate at 0.5 and 500 s ⁻¹ ) that are within two factors of the rheological properties.

  This residue is defined as the material that remains on the hair after application of the composition to the hair. After application of the composition, the moisture in the composition is normally absorbed by the hair and any volatile material in the composition evaporates. It should be understood that when the composition is applied to dry or slightly damp hair, moisture in the composition is absorbed by the hair within minutes after application. To mimic the residue, the composition is dried for 72 hours at ambient temperature in a Petri dish at standard conditions (20 ° C. and 50% RH). The remaining moisture contained in the remainder of the composition is usually less than 10%.

Non-volatile oil The composition contains one or more non-volatile oils, the kinematic viscosity of any one of these non-volatile oils or the mixture of non-volatile oils being 35 ° C. and 5 s ^{− 1} and 1000 mPa.s. is less than s. Preferably, this viscosity is 500 mPa.s at 35 ° C. and 5 s ⁻¹ . s, more preferably 100 mPa.s. s, most preferably 50 mPa.s. is less than s.

  Non-volatile oils are those that evaporate out of the emollient after 1 hour when placed in a petri dish in a standard environmental condition (20 ° C and 50% RH) with a fluid height of 3 mm. Is defined as less than 10% by weight.

  The oil can be selected from the group consisting of triglycerides, fatty esters, mineral oils (branched hydrocarbons) or mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the non-volatile oil is triheptanoin, tricaprylin, tricaprin, triundecanoin, trilinolein, triolene, almond oil, coconut oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, average chain length Selected from the group consisting of mineral oils of 20 carbon atoms or more, isocetyl stearate, dicaprylate / dicaprate propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

  Suitable mineral oils are those sold by Fuchs Lubricants (UK) under the name Sirius White Oils. Examples of suitable oils are Sirius M85, Sirius M125 and Sirius M350.

  Other suitable oils are silicone oils, for example dimethicone having a viscosity as already defined.

  The level of the oil phase in the entire composition is preferably greater than 10% by weight of the total composition, more preferably greater than 20% by weight.

Oil structurant This structurant is oil dispersible.

  Suitable structuring agents are hydrophobic silica or preferably hydrophobically modified, such as stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite or disteradimonium hectorite and derivatives or mixtures thereof. Selected from the group consisting of clay.

  When the structuring agent is a hydrophobically modified clay, the oil phase preferably further contains a polar activator. Polar activators polarize the ends of hydrophobically modified clay platelets, so that the clay platelets form a network structure when dispersed in oil via polar interactions . A suitable polar activator is propylene carbonate containing about 5% by weight water or an ethanol / water 95: 5 mixture.

The kinematic viscosity of the structured oil phase at 35 ° C. before addition to the emulsion is at least 8,000, more preferably at least 50,000, most preferably at a shear rate of 0.5 s ⁻¹ . At least 100,000 mPa.s. s, with a shear rate of 500 s ⁻¹ , less than 6,000, more preferably less than 4,000, most preferably 2,000 mPa.s. The structuring agent should be selected so that it is less than s. A highly preferred oil phase is at least 200,000 mPa.s at 35 ° C. and a shear rate of 0.5 s −1. s and a shear rate of 500 s ⁻¹ at 2,000 mPa.s. The kinematic viscosity is s or less. The level of structurant in the oil phase is preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight of the total oil content in the formulation.

Surfactant System The composition may further contain a nonionic surfactant or a mixture of nonionic surfactants. Isolaureth-6 or POE hydrogenated castor oil (preferably having 40 POE) is particularly preferred. The level of surfactant is preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight of the total composition.

Styling Compounds In some aspects of the invention, it is desirable that the composition contains additional styling aids.

  Particularly useful as styling aids according to the present invention are hair styling polymers. Hair styling polymers are well known commercial products, and many such polymers are commercially available, with polymers that are non-ionic in nature being particularly preferred. The polymer can be synthetic or naturally derived.

  The amount of this hair styling polymer is in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.75% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. % Range.

  Examples of nonionic hair styling polymers are homopolymers of N-vinyl pyrrolidone and copolymers of N-vinyl pyrrolidone with compatible nonionic monomers such as vinyl acetate.

  Nonionic polymers containing N-vinylpyrrolidone of various weight average molecular weights are commercially available from ISPC Corporation, and specific examples of such materials are about 630,000 sold under the name PVP K-90. N-vinyl pyrrolidone homopolymer having an average molecular weight and N-vinyl pyrrolidone homopolymer having an average molecular weight of about 1,000,000 sold under the name PVP K-120. Particularly preferred is a copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and polyvinyl acetate. An example of this copolymer is sold by BASF under the name Luviskol VA64.

Additional ingredients Styling products often include a carrier and additional ingredients. The carriers and additional ingredients required to formulate such products vary with the type of product and can be selected by those skilled in the art as usual. The following is a description of some of these carriers and additional components.

  The aqueous phase thickener is preferably present and can be based on cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose or mixtures thereof. Such aqueous phase thickeners are usually present in an amount of 0.01% to 10% by weight.

  The hair care composition of the present invention may contain a carrier or a mixture of such carriers that is suitable for application to the hair. The carrier is from about 0.5% to about 99.5%, preferably from about 5.0% to about 99.5%, more preferably from about 10.0% to about 98.0% of the composition. Present in%. As used herein, the term “suitable for application to hair” means that the carrier does not impair or adversely affect the aesthetics of the hair or cause irritation to the underlying skin. Means no.

  The composition according to the invention contains a buffer or a pH adjuster. Preferred buffering or pH adjusting agents include weak acids and bases such as glycine / sodium hydroxide, citric acid, triethanolamine, lactic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid and their salts. Often a mixture of buffer systems is used, such as sodium citrate and citric acid.

Suitable carriers for use with the hair care compositions of the present invention include, for example, those commonly used in creams. The carriers used herein can include a wide range of ingredients conventionally used in hair care compositions. The carriers include water, C ₁ -C ₆ alcohols, with these mixtures are lower alkyl acetates and preferably, may contain a solvent to dissolve or disperse the styling compound being used. The carrier can also contain a wide range of additional materials such as acetone, hydrocarbons (isobutane, hexane, decene, etc.), water, ethanol, volatile silicone derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The solvents used in such a mixture can be miscible or immiscible with each other.

The carrier may include a wide range of additional conditioning materials suitable for hair, such as quaternary silicone polymers; silicone-based conditioners and their emulsions, and amino-based silicones and their emulsions. The viscosity of these conditioning silicones was 10,000 mPa.s at 35 ° C. and 5 s ⁻¹ . Greater than s. Additional common ingredients suitable for all product forms include sunscreens, preservatives, antioxidants, anti-dandruff actives and emulsifiers for emulsifying the various carrier components of the compositions of the present invention.

  The composition of the present invention may also contain additives suitable for hair care. Generally, each such component is included at a level of 2% or less, preferably 1% or less by weight of the total composition. Suitable hair care additives include amino acids, sugars and ceramides.

  The compositions of the present invention are formulated into hair care compositions, particularly products having a hair styling claim. The compositions are for use in styling human hair, more preferably they are packaged and labeled as such.

  These products are preferably left after application and are not immediately washed away.

  Alternatively, these compounds can be used as rinse-off hair formulations. Such formulations are sold for conditioning hair and thus have suitable packaging.

Examples The following non-limiting examples further illustrate preferred embodiments of the present invention. All percentages referred to in this example and throughout this specification are by weight of active ingredient (not water), based on total weight, unless otherwise specified.

  Numbers indicate examples of the present invention; comparative examples are indicated by letters.

  Examples 1, 2 and 3 contain a hair styling cream according to the invention and Example A is not in accordance with the invention.

  The above cream was prepared as follows: An oily gel was prepared. In the case of Example 1 and Example 3, a 95/5 wt% mixture of propylene carbonate and water was prepared. The oil was then heated to 50 ° C., propylparaben was added, Bentone powder was added under high shear, and then the activator mixture was added slowly while mixing under high shear. In the case of Example 2, silica powder was added to this oil and mixed under high shear.

  A lamellar phase cream was prepared by mixing methylparaben, BHT, CTAC and 70% cetyl alcohol of total water under low shear at 75 ° C. and then under high shear under vacuum. A hydroxyethylcellulose dispersion was prepared in the remaining 30% of moisture and heated to 75 ° C. under low shear. The cellulose dispersion was then added to the initial mixture under low shear. In the case of Example A, oil (tricapryline) was added here. Next, high shear was performed for 5 minutes under vacuum. The resulting mixture was slowly cooled to 40 ° C. while mixing under low shear. In the case of Example 3, isolaureth-6 was added here. For Examples 1, 2 and 3, the oily gel was then added and mixed for 5 minutes at high shear (vacuum). Next, the silicone fluid and phenoxyethanol were added. In order to neutralize the pH, triethanolamine was added followed by perfume. Finally, high shear in vacuum was performed.

  The composition in this example had the following physical properties.

  This example is applied to the head of a mannequin with short (average 8 cm) white hair. In the case of Example A, the hair fibers fell down almost immediately, so it was not possible to make a very shabby style with the hair up. However, in Examples 1, 2 and 3, it was clearly possible to make such a style with rising hair.

  Examples 1, 2, 3 and A were evaluated by a trained quantitative consumer panel and the following results were obtained (scoring on a scale from 0 to 100 for characteristics).

  Thus, it is shown that the examples according to the present invention have better styling characteristics than the comparative examples.

  The following are further examples of hair styling creams according to the present invention.

  This process is the same as for Examples 1-3. After the addition of hydroxyethylcellulose, PVP / PVA was added at 75 ° C. A nonionic surfactant was added to the base prior to adding the Bentone gel.

  This product is stable, when tested in a consumer test by 120 hair wax users against a conventional 40% oil emulsion based product (Mod's Hair Solid wax in Japan) Gave excellent styling and the feel was very good.

  The following formulation is an example of a rinse-off type hair conditioner formulation.

  The composition of this example had the following physical properties.

  Examples 1, 6 and 7 were applied to a shampooed hair (straight, flat, 2.5 cm wide, 5 g long, 25 cm long hair); 0.5 g of product was applied for 45 seconds, after which Rinse well for 1 minute. The hair was then hung to dry, combed and squeezed flat between fingers. The next day, the hair volume was examined by measuring the front of the hair by image analysis. A benchmark comparison of performance was made against one of our latest commercial rinse-off conditioners (referred to as a benchmark). This test was performed by double measurement.

  The following results were obtained:

  A clear volume-down effect was observed, indicating that a significant effect in terms of volume can be obtained from the application of the rinse-off type.

Claims (21)

i) Aqueous lamellar phase [The aqueous lamellar phase is
a) a cationic surfactant, and b) a fatty alcohol having a melting point higher than 35 ° C. and / or a fatty acid having a melting point higher than 40 ° C. ],
ii) at least 3% by weight of the total oil phase composition
[The oil phase is
c) One or more non-volatile oils (the viscosity of any one of the non-volatile oils or the mixture of non-volatile oils is less than 1000 mPa.s at 35 ° C. and 5 s ⁻¹ ), And d) the viscosity of the oil phase at 35 ° C. is at least 8,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s ⁻¹ before mixing with the aqueous lamellar phase. s and 6,000 at a shear rate of 500 s ⁻¹
mPa. including an oil dispersion structuring agent such that it is less than s. ],
A personal care composition comprising: The viscosity of one of the oils or the viscosity of the mixture of oils ii) c) is 50 mPa.s at 35 ° C. and 5 s ⁻¹ . The personal care composition of claim 1, which is less than s. At 35 ° C., the oil phase ii) is at least 200,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 0.5 s ⁻¹ . s and a shear rate of 500 s ⁻¹ at 2,000 mPa.s. The personal care composition of claim 1 or claim 2, having a viscosity of s or less.   The personal care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil phase ii) has a yield stress of at least 500 Pa before mixing with the lamellar phase at 35 ° C.   5. The structure according to claim 1, wherein the structured oil phase ii) has a recovery of at least 5% when sheared to a point past its yield point before mixing with the lamellar phase. A personal care composition according to 1.   6. A personal care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the non-volatile oil ii) c) is a triglyceride.   The personal care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the oil dispersion structuring agent ii) d) is a hydrophobically modified clay or hydrophobic silica.   The personal care composition of claim 7 further comprising a polar activator.   9. A personal care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the level of cationic surfactant i) a) is from 0.2% to 5% by weight of the total composition.   The cationic surfactant is cetrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dicured tallow dimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) methyloctadecenylammonium chloride or 10. A personal care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 selected from the group consisting of these mixtures.   11. A personal care composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the level of fatty alcohol and / or fatty acid i) b) is from 0.3% to 10% by weight of the total composition.   12. The component i) b) in the lamellar phase is a fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof. Personal care composition.   The personal care composition of any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising an aqueous phase thickener comprising hydroxyethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, or a mixture thereof.   The personal care composition of any one of claims 1 to 13, further comprising a nonionic polymer.   15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the composition further comprises a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of isolaureth-6, POE (40) hydrogenated castor oil, or a mixture thereof. Personal care composition. In the form of a cream, the final cream having a viscosity of 30,000 to 150,000 mPa.s at 5 s ⁻¹ and 25 ° C. 16. A personal care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, which is between s.   A method for treating hair comprising applying to the hair a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16. After application, part of the composition evaporates or is absorbed by the hair, leaving a residue on the hair (the residue is at least 50,000 mPa.s at 35 ° C. and a shear rate of 0.5 s ⁻¹ ). And having a kinematic viscosity that is less than 6,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 500 s ⁻¹ ), using the composition according to claim 1. A method of treating hair.   19. A method of treating hair according to claim 18, wherein the residue has a yield stress of at least 500 Pa at 35 [deg.] C.   20. A method of treating hair as claimed in claim 18 or claim 19, wherein the residue has a recovery of at least 5% when sheared to a point past its yield point.   For styling hair, maintaining style, enabling hair styling, conditioning hair, reducing hair damage, imparting gloss to hair, moisturizing appearance and / or regulating hair volume or flow Use of the personal care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16.