WO2005041917A1

WO2005041917A1 - Viscous shower gel

Info

Publication number: WO2005041917A1
Application number: PCT/EP2004/052712
Authority: WO
Inventors: Stephan Ruppert; Ursula Jensen; Anja Spiegel
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2003-10-29
Filing date: 2004-10-29
Publication date: 2005-05-12
Also published as: DE10350425A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic cleaning preparations containing a) one or several modified polyamide gelling agents which have the following structure (I): n=0-5, R1= hydrocarbon having 1-22 carbon atoms, R2= hydrocarbon having 2-42 carbon atoms, R3= hydrocarbon having 2-36 carbon atoms, containing 0-3 heteroatoms, selected from the group containing oxygen and nitrogen, R3a= H, C1-C10-carbon radical, in a concentration of 0.2 - 10 wt %, b) one or several oil-soluble surfactants in a total concentration of 5 - 50 wt %, c) one or several oils having a total concentration of 10 - 95 wt %, d) up to 1 wt % water, respectively in relation to the total weight of the preparation, having a viscosity of 300 - 4000 mPa-S and a transmission of 30 -100 % at 550 nm.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

Viscous shower oil

The present invention relates to the use of modified polyamide gelling agents in cosmetic preparations.

The desire for clean skin is probably as old as mankind, because dirt, sweat and residues of dead skin particles provide the ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. The desire for personal hygiene was steadily increased than in the 1960s In addition to the "classic" soap, liquid detergents could also be formulated with newly developed synthetic surfactants. Bathing and showering have become an integral part of our daily lives. Consumers now have a wide range of products for cleaning the different parts of the body.

When the skin is cleaned with the help of water (especially in combination with surfactants), the horny layer of the skin swells first. The degree of this swelling depends on a. on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer. Skin oils are also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent by the skin's own surface-active substances. After initial swelling, this causes the skin to dry out subsequently.

Detergent surfactants, which are intended to clean the skin and hair of greasy and water-soluble dirt components, also have a degreasing effect on normal skin lipids. Every time the skin is cleaned, intercomeocytic lipids and sebum components are also removed to different degrees. This means that the natural water-lipid coat of the skin is more or less disturbed with every washing process. This can lead to a short-term change in the barrier function of the skin, particularly in the case of extreme degreasing, the course of which the condition of the treated skin region also has a considerable influence on the changes shown. For example, the thickness of the skin, the number of sebum and sweat glands and the sensitivity associated with it can vary considerably.

There has been no shortage of attempts to find suitable cleansing preparations which regenerate or "regrease" the skin with good cleaning performance at the same time. Shower oils form a special group of skin cleansing products. Shower oils contain oils as their main constituents and surfactants soluble in the oil phase An example of shower oils is described in DE 44 2 210.

The production of shower oils is technically extremely difficult, however, because only selected oils and surfactants can produce stable, reasonably transparent or at least translucent single-phase shower oils.

A major disadvantage of conventional shower oils is that they are extremely thin. According to the state of the art, only shower oils with a viscosity of approximately 180 mPaS (measured on Ares 5 at a shear rate of 10 s ^"1 , 25 ° C, aluminum plate cone: 0.1 radians) can be produced stably However, shower oils have the disadvantage that they are difficult to apply to the skin because they flow very much from the hand or from the body. Many users complain that the shower oil "runs like water through their fingers".

Now, to solve this problem, it may seem obvious to the layperson to add a thickener to the shower oil in order to obtain a more viscous shower oil. However, the (cosmetic) specialist world has not yet succeeded in finding a thickener suitable for shower oils containing surfactants. Numerous attempts with a large number of thickeners such as Transgel 105, Transgel 110, Transgel 510, Thixcin R, Aminofect, Versagel M750 or rice bran wax failed because the preparations resulted in phase separations, clouding and precipitation. Too high a viscosity (i.e. a "hardening") of the preparation was also frequently observed. Last but not least, the products left a dull feeling on the skin of the test subjects in application tests.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a thickened shower oil that has a viscosity of at least 300 mPa-s, is transparent and remains stable and single-phase even after prolonged storage or thermal stress.

It was also the object of the present invention to find a thickener for thickening cosmetic shower oils. Last but not least, it was the object of the present invention to develop a shower oil with pleasant sensory properties. Surprisingly, the objects are achieved by a cosmetic cleaning preparation containing a) one or more modified polyamide gelling agents which have the following structure:

with n = 0-5 Rι = hydrocarbon with 1-22 carbon atoms, R ₂ = hydrocarbon with 2-42 carbon atoms, R ₃ = hydrocarbon with 2-36 carbon atoms, containing 0-3 heteroatoms, selected from the group consisting of oxygen and nitrogen, R ₃ a = H, C.-Cio carbon residue, in a concentration of 0.2 to 10% by weight, b) one or more oil-soluble surfactants in a total concentration of 5 to 50% by weight, c) one or more oils in a total concentration of 10 to 95% by weight, d) up to 1% by weight of water, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation, with a viscosity of 300 to 4000 mPaS and a transmission of 30 to 100% at 550 nm wavelength.

The preparation according to the invention advantageously has a tan delta value of up to and, according to the invention, preferably a tan delta value of 0.25 to 0.23. The tan delta value was determined according to the invention using an SR 2000 device from Rheoteric Scietific at 0.1 rad / s, 40 ° C. and a measuring system: plate / plate 25 mm, 1 mm distance.

Modified polyamide gelling agents have hitherto been used according to the prior art for the production of candles (US 2002/0068811) or for the production of aqueous suspensions (WO 03/050164). Since such preparations are solid or water-containing and also contain no surfactants, they could not find the way point to the present invention. Rather, it would have been expected for the person skilled in the art that liquid-viscous preparations cannot be produced with modified polyamide gel formers or that a minimum water content is absolutely necessary in order to obtain acceptable viscosities.

The preparations according to the invention lead to a noticeably smooth, supple and well-cared for skin feeling after use.

It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention has one or more modified polyamide gelling agents which have the following structure:

with n = 0-5 R ^ hydrocarbon with 1-22 carbon atoms, R ₂ = hydrocarbon with 2-42 carbon atoms, R ₃ = hydrocarbon with 2-36 carbon atoms, containing 0-3 heteroatoms, selected from the group consisting of oxygen and nitrogen, R ₃ a = H, CrCio carbon residue, contained in a concentration of 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention preferably contains one or more oil-soluble surfactants in a total concentration of 10 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention preferably contains one or more oils in a total concentration of 30 to 70% by weight and particularly preferably in a concentration of 40 to 60% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

Preparations according to the invention which are “water-free” are also preferred. For the purposes of the present invention, preparations which do not contain any water but which may contain small amounts of water due to production, for example through the use of certain water-containing raw materials, are also to be considered for this purpose. The viscosity according to the invention was determined with the aid of an Ares 5 device at 25 ° C. and a shear rate of 10 s ^"1 (measuring system: aluminum plate cone, 0.1 radians). It has proven to be preferred according to the invention if the preparation had a viscosity of 1500 to 2700 mPaS.

The transmission according to the invention was determined according to the invention using the Agilent 8453 Diode Arrag Spectrometer with a layer thickness of 1 cm. The measurement was carried out in a range from 190 to 1100 nm at intervals of 1 nm and an integration time of 0.5 seconds at room temperature. According to the invention, the transmission of the preparation according to the invention is preferably from 35 to 85% at 550 nm wavelength. Oil-soluble surfactants which are advantageous according to the invention are selected from the group of the compounds of the alkyl and / or hydroxyalkyl ammonium salts of the fatty alcohol ether sulfates. It is preferred according to the invention if the oil-soluble surfactants used are monoisopropanolamine lauryl ether sulfates (MIPA-Laureth sulfates), Laureth-4 (CAS: 5274-68-0, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide (Cocamide DEA) and / or triisopropanolamine lauryl ether sulfates (TIPA Laureth sulfates).

In addition to oils, the oil phase of the preparation according to the invention can advantageously also contain fats, waxes and the like, that is to say compounds which the person skilled in the art also refers to as upid.

The oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of nonpolar lipids with a polarity> 30 mN / m. Particularly advantageous nonpolar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below.

As oils according to the invention, one or more oils selected from the group of soybean oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, rice oil, diesel oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, macadamia oil, almond oil, IM eight candle oil, mineral oil are preferably used.

Polyamide gel formers which are advantageous according to the invention are disclosed in US 2002/0068811. Embodiments of the present invention which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the polyamide gel former (s) is used as a structural element

- N— R ₃ -N - = - NN - or - NH— fCi to C3 - + NN Cι to C ₃ ^) contain NH R ₃ a R ₃ a.

According to the invention, the building block R _{2 is} preferably formed from a -C ₀ -C ₂₂ carbon residue.

Furthermore, it is very particularly preferred according to the invention if the building block R _{2 is formed} from a C ₆ H ₃₂ alkyl chain.

Most preferred according to the invention is the compound which is freely available on the day of the priority application under the trade name Sylvaclear A200V from Arizona Chemical and has the INCI name: ethylene diamine / hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer bis-di-C14-18 alkyl amide.

In advantageous embodiments of the present invention, the cleaning preparations according to the invention contain one or more active substances selected from the group of plant-based active substances, vegetable oils, plant extracts and vitamins such as, in particular, chamomile, aloe vera, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, aloe vera, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, plant extracts such as witch hazel extract, mallow extract, seaweed extract, panthenol, niacinamide, polidocanol.

According to the invention, these active substances can advantageously be used in a total concentration of 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If preparations according to the present invention are to contain further surfactants in addition to the surfactants according to the invention, it is preferred to choose their concentration in relation to the weight of the total composition not greater than 5% by weight. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group

Amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. B. Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl - and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, pentathione sulfones, butothionine sulfones -, Heptahioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μ mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. B. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), oc-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitates, Mg-ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbylacetates), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. Vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as konyferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutrophosphate and their derivatives, Derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSθ4) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives ( e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances which are suitable according to the invention.

Oil-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation. If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. to choose.

Advantageously according to the invention, the preparation according to the invention is colored by a dye. The dyes can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. The content of one or more dyes is advantageously <0.05% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Oil-soluble dyes are particularly suitable for coloring.

Preparations and uses according to the invention which contain glycerol (propanetriol) in addition to the above-mentioned components are particularly preferred. Glycerin is a colorless, clear, highly viscous, odorless, sweet-tasting, hygroscopic, practically non-toxic liquid that can be mixed with water and alcohol in any ratio. Glycerin is available in different purities. For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the glycerol is as pure as possible, for example “chemically pure” according to DAB, in particular also “purest” according to DAB.

According to the invention, the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain glycerol in a concentration of 8 to 20% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 12 to 16% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is also within the meaning of the present invention to add pearlescent pigments, suspended matter such as, for example, mica, glitter, beads and / or effect pigments, peeling particles, such as polyethylene, to the preparation according to the invention in order to make the preparation optically more attractive and / or to bring about an additional benefit. The preparation according to the invention can also contain gas bubbles, in particular air bubbles, or streaks, in particular streaks of color, can be provided in an advantageous manner for the invention.

The method for producing cleaning preparations according to the invention is also in accordance with the invention, which is characterized in that the oil-soluble surfactants and the oils with the gel former are heated to 80-90 ° C. and homogenized by stirring or mixed with the aid of an Ultra-Turrax and mixed with air bubbles and then cooled to room temperature, it being possible to add further oil and / or surfactant components to the preparation at 50 ° C. with stirring or using an Ultra-Turrax.

According to the invention, the use of modified polyamide gelling agents, which have the following structure: ^*

with n = 0-5 Rι = hydrocarbon with 1 -22 carbon atoms, R ₂ = hydrocarbon with 2-42 carbon atoms, R ₃ = hydrocarbon with 2-36 carbon atoms, containing 0-3 heteroatoms, selected from the group consisting of oxygen and nitrogen, R ₃ a = H, CrCjo carbon residue, to increase the viscosity of lipophilic cosmetic preparations, and the use of modified polyamide gelling agents, which have the following structure:

with n = 0-5 Rι = hydrocarbon with 1-22 carbon atoms, R ₂ = hydrocarbon with 2-42 carbon atoms, R ₃ = hydrocarbon with 2-36 carbon atoms, containing 0-3 heteroatoms, selected from the group oxygen and nitrogen, R ₃ a = H, Ci-C-io carbon residue, to increase the viscosity of shower oils.

Preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention are characterized in that the polyamide gel former (s) are used as structural elements

- N— R ₃ -N - = - NN - or NHHCi to C ₃ - IN Ny ^C _l ^to C3- HR ₃ a R ₃ a \ _ / contain.

Furthermore, it is particularly preferred according to the invention if the building block R _{2 is formed} from a C ₁₆ H ₃₂ alkyl chain.

According to the invention, it is particularly preferred to use the compound with the INCI name ethylene diamine / hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer bis-di-C14-18 alkyl amide, which is freely available on the day of the priority application under the trade name Sylvaclear A200V from Arizona Chemical.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously as tubs (bath) preparations, for example as oil baths and the like, but also as shower preparations - such as. B. can be used as shower oils.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Examples

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic cleaning preparation comprising a) one or more modified polyamide gelling agents which have the following structure:

with n = 0-5 Rι = hydrocarbon with 1 -22 carbon atoms, R ₂ = hydrocarbon with 2-42 carbon atoms, R ₃ = hydrocarbon with 2-36 carbon atoms, containing 0-3 heteroatoms, selected from the group consisting of oxygen and nitrogen, R ₃ a = H, -C-C ₁₀ ~ carbon residue, in a concentration of 0.2 to 10% by weight, b) one or more oil-soluble surfactants in a total concentration of 5 to 50% by weight, c) one or more oils in a total concentration of 10 to 95% by weight, d) up to 1% by weight of water, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation, with a viscosity of 300 to 4000 mPaS and a transmission of 30 to 100% at 550 nm.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil-soluble surfactants are selected from the group of the compounds of the alkyl and / or hydroxyalkyl ammonium salts of the fatty alcohol ether sulfates.

3. Preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the oil-soluble surfactants used are monoisopropanolamine lauryl ether sulfates (MIPA-Laureth sulfates), Laureth-4, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide and / or triisopropanolamine lauryl ether sulfates (TIPA-Laureth sulfates).

4. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that one or more oils selected from the group of soybean oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, rice oil, diesel oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, macadamia oil, almond oil, evening primrose oil, mineral oil are used as oils ,

5. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the or the polyamide gelling agent as a structural element - to

contain.

6. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the preparation one or more active ingredients selected from the group, chamomile, aloe vera, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, aloe vera, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, plant extracts such as hamamel extract, seaweed extract, Mallow extract, seaweed extract, panthenol, niacinamide, polidocanol contains.

7. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the preparation contains air bubbles or particles as suspended matter.

8. A process for the preparation of cosmetic cleaning preparations according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the oil-soluble surfactants and the oils with the gel former are heated to 80-90 ° C and homogenized by stirring or mixed with the aid of an Ultra-Turrax and mixed with Air bubbles are added and then cooled to room temperature, further oil and / or surfactant components being able to be added to the preparation at 50 ° C. with stirring or with the aid of an Ultra-Turrax.

9. Use of modified polyamide gelling agents which have the following structure:

with n = 0-5 R-ι = hydrocarbon with 1-22 carbon atoms, R ₂ = hydrocarbon with 2-42 carbon atoms, R ₃ = hydrocarbon with 2-36 carbon atoms, containing 0-3 heteroatoms, selected from the group consisting of oxygen and nitrogen , R ₃ a = H, dC _t o carbon residue, to increase the viscosity of lipophilic cosmetic preparations.

10. Use of modified polyamide gelling agents which have the following structure:

with n = 0-5 Rι = hydrocarbon with 1 -22 carbon atoms, R ₂ = hydrocarbon with 2-42 carbon atoms, R ₃ = hydrocarbon with 2-36 carbon atoms, containing 0-3 heteroatoms, selected from the group consisting of oxygen and nitrogen, R ₃ a = H, Cι-Cιo carbon residue, to increase the viscosity of shower oils.