WO2005041909A1 - Agent cosmetique contenant un copolymere qui presente des unites amide d'acide (meth)acrylique et un ester de l'acide p-aminobenzoique - Google Patents

Agent cosmetique contenant un copolymere qui presente des unites amide d'acide (meth)acrylique et un ester de l'acide p-aminobenzoique Download PDF

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WO2005041909A1
WO2005041909A1 PCT/EP2004/012232 EP2004012232W WO2005041909A1 WO 2005041909 A1 WO2005041909 A1 WO 2005041909A1 EP 2004012232 W EP2004012232 W EP 2004012232W WO 2005041909 A1 WO2005041909 A1 WO 2005041909A1
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weight
water
alkyl
components
polymers
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PCT/EP2004/012232
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German (de)
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Darshan Patwardhan
Claudia Wood
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Basf Aktiengesellschaft
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/91Graft copolymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition containing a copolymer with (meth) acrylic acid amide units and an ester of p-aminobenzoic acid
  • Cosmetically and pharmaceutically acceptable water-soluble polymers are widely used in cosmetics and medicine.
  • soaps, creams and lotions for example, they usually serve as formulating agents, e.g. B. as a thickener, foam stabilizer or water absorbent or to mitigate the irritant effect of other ingredients or to improve the dermal application of active ingredients.
  • Your task in hair cosmetics is to influence the properties of the hair.
  • they serve as coating agents or binders for solid pharmaceutical forms.
  • film-forming polymers are used, for example, as setting agents and / or they serve as conditioners to improve dry and wet combability, feel, shine and appearance, and to give the hair antistatic properties.
  • transparent, possibly also slightly colored plastics are generally transparent not only for visible light in a wavelength range from 400 to 750 nm, but also for the components of ultraviolet (UV) radiation contained in daylight, the mechanical, chemical , olfactory and / or aesthetic properties of the packaged formulations as a result of the action of UV light. In particular, a change in appearance, such as yellowing and discoloration, is noticed negatively by the consumer. In addition, the overall durability of the formulation can be greatly reduced. Because of economic and for aesthetic reasons, the packaging material is often made as thin-walled as possible, stabilizing the packaging against light is often not sufficient to adequately protect the packaged cosmetic or pharmaceutical agent.
  • US Pat. No. 5,334,287 discloses graft polymers which can be obtained by radical-initiated polymerization of N-vinylcarboxamides, preferably N-vinylformamide, and, if appropriate, other monomers in the presence of monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides.
  • acrylamide and methacrylamide are also mentioned as additional monomers.
  • a suitability of these graft copolymers as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations is not mentioned.
  • compositions which contain at least one water-soluble polymer which can be obtained by radical copolymerization of acrylic acid amide and / or methacrylic acid amide and other water-soluble ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenically unsaturated compounds which can be copolymerized therewith, optionally in the presence a water-soluble polymeric graft base are available. They are particularly suitable for the production of products in the form of gels.
  • US patent application 20030044365 A1 describes cosmetic compositions for tanning the skin, which may contain a light stabilizer. As suitable In addition to a large number of other classes of compounds, nete light stabilizers are also called derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions which are protected against the negative effects of light. They are said to be particularly suitable for the production of products in the form of clear gels which are stabilized against changes in appearance, such as yellowing and discoloration.
  • a cosmetic agent which contains at least one ester of p-aminobenzoic acid and at least one water-soluble copolymer which is obtained by radical copolymerization of acrylic acid amide and / or methacrylic acid amide and further water-soluble ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenically copolymerizable therewith unsaturated compounds, optionally in the presence of a water-soluble polymeric graft base.
  • the invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing
  • alkyl includes straight-chain and branched alkyl groups.
  • Suitable short chain alkyl groups are e.g. B. straight-chain or branched CC 7 alkyl, preferably C C ⁇ alkyl and particularly preferably CC 4 alkyl groups.
  • Suitable longer-chain C 8 -C 30 alkyl or C 8 -C 30 alkenyl groups are straight-chain and branched alkyl or alkenyl groups. These are preferably predominantly linear alkyl radicals, as they also occur in natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty alcohols and oxo alcohols, which may optionally also be mono-, di- or poly-unsaturated. These include e.g. B.
  • Cycloalkyl is preferably C 5 -C 8 cycloalkyl, such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl or cyclooctyl.
  • heterocycloalkyl in the sense of the present invention encompasses saturated, cycloaliphatic groups with generally 4 to 7, preferably 5 or 6 ring atoms, in which 1 or 2 of the ring carbon atoms are replaced by heteroatoms selected from the elements oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur and which may optionally be substituted, where in the case of a substitution, these heterocycloaliphatic groups 1, 2 or 3, preferably 1 or 2, particularly preferably 1, selected from alkyl, aryl, COOR a , COO " M + and NE 1 E 2 , preferably alkyl, are examples of such heterocycloaliphatic groups are pyrrolidinyl, piperidinyl, 2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-piperidinyl, imidazolidinyl, pyrazolidinyl, oxazolidinyl, morpholidinyl, thiazolidinyl, isothiazolidinyl, isoxazolidinyl, piperazinyl, Tetrahydro
  • Aryl includes unsubstituted and substituted aryl groups and is preferably phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, mesityl, naphthyl, fluorenyl, anthracenyl, phenanthrenyl, naphthacenyl and in particular phenyl, tolyl, xylyl or mesityl.
  • Substituted aryl radicals preferably have 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, in particular 1, 2 or 3, substituents selected from alkyl, alkoxy, carboxyl, carboxylate, trifluoromethyl, -SO 3 H, sulfonate, NE 1 E 2 , alkylene-NE 1 E 2 , nitro, cyano or halogen.
  • Hetaryl is preferably pyrrolyl, pyrazolyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, carbazolyl, pyridyl, quinolinyl, acridinyl, pyridazinyl, pyrimidinyl or pyrazinyl.
  • the agents according to the invention can advantageously be formulated as gels under normal conditions (20 ° C.).
  • "Gel-shaped consistency” means agents which have a higher viscosity than a liquid and which are self-supporting, ie which retain their shape without a shape-stabilizing coating. In contrast to solid formulations, gel formulations are easy to use deform by shear forces.
  • the viscosity of the gel-like agents are preferably in a range from greater than 600 to about 60,000 mPas.
  • the gels are preferably hair gels, these having a viscosity of preferably 6,000 to 30,000 mPas.
  • derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid are advantageously suitable for stabilizing cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions based on copolymers which contain copolymerized acrylic acid amide and / or methacrylic acid amide.
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • they can be formulated into remedies with a very low intrinsic color or imperceptible to the human eye.
  • they are notable for high compatibility both with the copolymers used according to the invention and with the otherwise customary ingredients of cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions. This is particularly necessary for the manufacture of clear products, such as clear gels, since even minor incompatibilities, which can be seen in the fact that the product becomes cloudy or even segregated, impair the aesthetic properties.
  • the derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid used according to the invention are also very well suited for negative changes in the agents protected with them, for example a change in appearance such as yellowing and discoloration, a change in odor and / or a breakdown of ingredients over a long period of time to avoid. In this way, the durability of these agents can be ensured over a long period of time with attractive aesthetic properties.
  • the means protected in this way are also suitable for packaging in transparent packaging materials, for example made of plastics, which enable a good view of the packaged product.
  • the derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid according to the invention are particularly well compatible with gel formers, as are usually used in the production of gels.
  • esters of p-aminobenzoic acid used as component C) in the agents according to the invention are preferably selected from compounds of the general formula IV
  • the compounds of the formula IV are preferably selected from ethyl 4-bis (hydroxypropyl) aminobenzoate (Amerscheen® P), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (Escalol® 507), amyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, ethyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate , Butyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, octyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, lauryl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, oleyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate,
  • the aforementioned compound of the general formula IV is particularly preferably a compound of the formula IV.1
  • d 1 , d 2 and d 3 is in which the sum of d 1 , d 2 and d 3 is from 20 to 30, in particular about 25.
  • stabilizer compositions which contain 4-bis (polyethoxy) -4-aminobenzoic acid polyethoxyethyl ester (Uvinul® P 25) or consist of this as the only component.
  • the agents according to the invention generally contain component C) in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the Total weight of the product.
  • the copolymers A) are described in more detail below.
  • the copolymers A) used according to the invention preferably do not contain any copolymerized acid-containing monomers.
  • the copolymer A) contains 5 to 90% by weight, preferably 10 to 85% by weight, particularly preferably 15 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of components a) to d), polymerized in acrylic acid amide and / or methacrylic acid amide ,
  • the copolymer A) contains 5 to 85% by weight, particularly preferably 10 to 80% by weight, of at least one compound of component b) copolymerized.
  • the compounds of component b) are preferably selected from N-vinyl lactams, N-vinyl amides of saturated monocarboxylic acids, N-alkyl and N, N-dialkyl amides of ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenically unsaturated monocarboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred monomers b) are N-vinyl lactams and their derivatives, which, for. B. may have one or more -CC 6 alkyl substituents, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, etc. These include e.g. B.
  • N-vinylamides suitable as monomers b) are, for example, N-vinylformamide, N-vinyl-N-methylformamide, N-vinylacetamide, N-vinyl-N-methylacetamide, N-vinyl-N-ethylacetamide, N-vinylpropionamide, N-vinyl- N-methyl propionamide, N-vinyl butyramide and mixtures thereof.
  • N-vinylformamide is preferably used.
  • the copolymer A) contains 3 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 25% by weight, of at least one compound of component c) polymerized.
  • alkylating agents examples include ethyl chloride, ethyl bromide, methyl chloride, methyl bromide, dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate. Protonation or quaternization can generally take place both before and after the polymerization.
  • Suitable compounds c) are e.g. B. the esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenically unsaturated mono- and dicarboxylic acids with amino alcohols, preferably C 2 -C 12 amino alcohols. These can preferably be CrC-a-monoalkylated or dialkylated on the amine nitrogen.
  • an acid component of these esters are, for. B. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, monobutyl maleate and mixtures thereof. Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and mixtures thereof are preferably used.
  • Tert-butylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate N, N-dimethylaminomethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylate are preferred , N, N-diethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminocyclohexyl (meth) acrylate etc.
  • N, N-dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate and N, N-dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylate are preferably used.
  • Suitable monomers c) of esters of vinyl alcohol with monocarboxylic acids are, for example, vinyl formate, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate.
  • Suitable vinyl and allyl-substituted heteroaromatic compounds as monomers c) are, for example, N-vinylimidazole and derivatives thereof, such as N-vinyl-2-methylimidazole etc.
  • Suitable monomers c) are also allylamines and aliylammonium salts, such as dialylamine, diallylmethylamine and diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • Suitable monomers c) are furthermore the amides of the abovementioned, ß-ethylenically unsaturated mono- and dicarboxylic acids with diamines which have a tertiary and a primary or secondary amino group. These include e.g. B.
  • N- [3- (dimethylamino) propyl] acrylamide, N- [3- (dimethylamino) propyl] methacrylamide are preferably used.
  • Suitable monomers c) are also polyether acrylates, which in the context of this invention are generally understood to mean esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenically unsaturated mono- and dicarboxylic acids with polyetherols.
  • Suitable polyetherols are linear or branched substances which have terminal hydroxyl groups and contain ether bonds. Generally they have a molecular weight in the range of about 150 to 20,000.
  • Suitable polyetherols are polyalkylene glycols, such as polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols, polytetrahydrofurans and alkylene oxide copolymers.
  • Suitable alkylene oxides for the production of alkylene oxide copolymers are, for. B.
  • alkylene oxide copolymers can contain the alkylene oxide units randomly distributed or copolymerized in the form of blocks. Ethylene oxide / propylene oxide copolymers are preferred.
  • Preferred component c) are polyether acrylates of the general formula II
  • CH 2 CCY (CH 2 CH 2 O) k (CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O), RB (
  • k and I independently of one another represent an integer from 0 to 500, the sum of k and I being at least 5,
  • R 5 represents hydrogen or CC 8 alkyl
  • R 6 represents hydrogen or d-Ci ⁇ -alkyl
  • Y represents O or NR 7 , where R 7 represents hydrogen, CC 8 alkyl or C 5 -C 8 cycloalkyl.
  • K is preferably an integer from 1 to 500, in particular 3 to 250.
  • I is preferably an integer from 0 to 100.
  • R 5 preferably represents hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, se ⁇ -butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl or n-hexyl, in particular hydrogen, methyl or ethyl.
  • R 6 in formula II is preferably hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, decyl, lauryl, palmityl or stearyl ,
  • copolymers A) can contain at least one crosslinker, i.e. contain a compound with 2 or more than 2 ethylenically unsaturated double bonds in polymerized form.
  • Crosslinkers are preferably used in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of components a) to d).
  • Crosslinking monomers which can be used are compounds having at least two ethylenically unsaturated double bonds, such as, for example, esters of ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and polyhydric alcohols, ethers of at least dihydric alcohols, such as, for example, vinyl ether or allyl ether.
  • the monohydric, unsaturated alcohols can also be esterified with polybasic carboxylic acids, for example malonic acid, tartaric acid, trimellitic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid or succinic acid.
  • polybasic carboxylic acids for example malonic acid, tartaric acid, trimellitic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid or succinic acid.
  • crosslinkers are esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids with the polyhydric alcohols described above, for example oleic acid, crotonic acid, cinnamic acid or 10-undecenoic acid.
  • N-vinyl compounds of urea derivatives at least divalent amides, cyanurates or urethanes, for example of urea, ethylene urea, propylene urea or tartaric acid diamide, for.
  • N, N'-divinyl ethylene urea or N, N'-divinyl propylene urea can be used.
  • crosslinkers are divinyl dioxane, tetraallylsilane or tetravinylsilane.
  • crosslinkers are pentaerythritol triallyl ether, allyl ethers of sugars such as sucrose, glucose, mannose, divinylbenzene, N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide, N, N'-divinylethylene urea, and (meth) acrylic acid esters of glycol, butanediol, trimethylolpropane or glycerol or (Meth) acrylic acid esters of glycol, butanediol, trimethylolpropane or glycerol reacted with ethylene oxide and / or epichlorohydrin.
  • sugars such as sucrose, glucose, mannose, divinylbenzene, N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide, N, N'-divinylethylene urea
  • acrylic acid esters of glycol, butanediol, trimethylolpropane or glycerol or (Meth) acrylic acid esters of glycol, butanediol, tri
  • N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl tartaric acid diamide, dialyl phthalate, diallyl urea, glycol di (meth) acrylate, allyl (meth) acrylate and polyallyl ether are very particularly preferred.
  • the copolymerization for the preparation of the copolymers A) takes place in the presence of at least one compound of component d).
  • the amount of component d) used is 1 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of components a) to d).
  • the compounds of component d) used according to the invention essentially contain no carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the compounds of component d) contain no groups containing silicon atoms.
  • Suitable polyether-containing compounds d1) are generally water-soluble or water-dispersible, nonionic polymers which have polyalkylene glycol groups.
  • the proportion of polyalkylene glycol groups is preferably at least 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the compound d1).
  • the aforementioned polyalkylene glycols, polyesters based on polyalkylene glycols and polyether urethanes can be used as the polyether-containing compound d1).
  • polyether-containing compounds d1) contain the following structural units:
  • R 8 is dC 24 alkyl, preferably CC 4 alkyl.
  • the compounds d1) can additionally have bridging groups which are selected, for example, from:
  • R a and R b independently of one another are hydrogen, d-do-alkyl, preferably dd-alkyl or cycloalkyl.
  • n 1 to 200 preferably 1 to 100;
  • s 0 to 1000 preferably 0 to 100;
  • u 1 to 1000 preferably 1 to 500;
  • v 0 to 1000 preferably 1 to 500;
  • w 0 to 1000 preferably 1 to 500;
  • z 0 to 1000, preferably 1 to 500.
  • the terminal primary hydroxyl groups of the polyethers produced on the basis of polyalkylene oxides and the secondary OH groups of polyglycerol can both be freely available in unprotected form and can be etherified or esterified with alcohols with a chain length dC 2 or with carboxylic acids with a chain length dC 24 or with Isocyanates are converted to urethanes.
  • Polyether urethanes are preferably used.
  • Preferred representatives of the above-mentioned alkyl radicals are branched or unbranched C ⁇ C 12 -, particularly preferably CrC 6 -alkyl chains.
  • the molecular weight of the polyethers is in the range greater than 300 (by number average), preferably in the range from 300 to 100,000, particularly preferably in the range from 500 to 50,000, very particularly preferably in the range from 800 to 40,000.
  • Homopolymers of ethylene oxide or copolymers with an ethylene oxide content of 40 to 99% by weight are advantageously used.
  • the proportion of ethylene oxide polymerized in is therefore 40 to 100 mol% for the ethylene oxide polymers to be used with preference.
  • Propylene oxide, butylene oxide and / or isobutylene oxide are suitable as comonomers for these copolymers.
  • copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers of ethylene oxide and butylene oxide and copolymers of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and at least one butylene oxide are suitable.
  • the ethylene oxide content of the copolymers is preferably 40 to 99 mol%, the propylene oxide content 1 to 60 mol% and the butylene oxide content in the copolymers 1 to 30 mol%.
  • branched homopolymers or copolymers can also be used as polyether-containing compounds d1).
  • Branched polymers can be prepared by, for example, on polyalcohol residues, for. B. on pentaerythritol, glycerol or on sugar alcohols such as D-sorbitol and D-mannitol but also on polysaccharides such as cellulose and starch, ethylene oxide and optionally also propylene oxide and / or butylene oxides.
  • the alkylene oxide units can be randomly distributed in the polymer or in the form of blocks.
  • polyesters of polyalkylene oxides and aliphatic or aromatic dicarboxylic acids e.g. B. oxalic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid and terephthalic acid with molecular weights from 1500 to 25000, such as. B. described in EP-A-0 743 962 to use as a polyether-containing compound.
  • polycarbonates can also be obtained by reacting polyalkylene oxides with phosgene or carbonates such as.
  • diphenyl carbonate and polyurethanes can be used by reacting polyalkylene oxides with aliphatic and aromatic diisocyanates.
  • a component d1) which comprises at least one polyether urethane is used to prepare the copolymers A).
  • Suitable polyether urethanes are the condensation products of polyether polyols, such as polyether diols, with polyisocyanates, such as diisocyanates.
  • Suitable polyether polyols are the aforementioned polyalkylene glycols, which are obtainable, for example, from the polymerization of cyclic ethers, such as tetrahydrofuran, or from the reaction of one or more alkylene oxides with a starter molecule which has two or more active hydrogen atoms.
  • Suitable polyisocyanates are selected from compounds with 2 to 5 isocyanate groups, isocyanate prepolymers with an average number of 2 to 5 isocyanate groups, and mixtures thereof. These include e.g. B. aliphatic, cycloaliphatic and aromatic di-, tri- and polyisocyanates. Suitable diisocyanates are e.g. B.
  • Polyisocyanates which can be obtained by adding the aforementioned isocyanates to polyfunctional compounds containing hydroxyl or amine groups. Polyisocyanates which are formed by the formation of biurets or isocyanurates are also suitable. Hexamethylene diisocyanate, trimerized hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 2,4-tolylene diisocyanate, 2,6-tolylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof are preferably used.
  • polymers d2) which have at least 50% by weight of vinyl alcohol units. These polymers preferably contain at least 70% by weight, very particularly preferably 80% by weight, of polyvinyl alcohol units. Such polymers are usually prepared by polymerizing a vinyl ester and then at least partially alcoholysis, aminolysis or hydrolysis. Vinyl esters of linear and branched dC 12 carboxylic acids are preferred; vinyl acetate is very particularly preferred. The vinyl esters can of course also be used in a mixture.
  • Comonomers of the vinyl ester for the synthesis of the graft base d2) are, for example, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylimidazole, N-vinyl-2-methylimidazole, N-vinyl-4-methylimidazole, 3-methyl-1-vinylimidazolium chloride, 3- Methyl 1-vinylimidazolium methyl sulfate, diallylammonium chloride, styrene, alkylstyrenes in question.
  • Suitable comonomers for the preparation of the graft base d2) are, for example, monoethylenically unsaturated C 3 -C 6 -carboxylic acids such as, for. As acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, and their esters, amides and nitriles such as. B.
  • acrylic acid methyl ester acrylic acid ethyl ester, methacrylic acid methyl ester, methacrylic acid ethyl ester, methacrylic acid stearyl ester, hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxybutyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, methyl maleate malate, hydroxyl maleate methylate
  • graft bases d2) are polymers which are produced by homopolymerization of vinyl acetate and subsequent at least partial hydrolysis, alcoholysis or aminolysis.
  • the ester groups of the original monomers and optionally further monomers are at least partially cleaved after the polymerization by hydrolysis, alcoholysis or aminolysis.
  • this process step is generally referred to as saponification.
  • the saponification is carried out in a manner known per se by adding a base or acid, preferably by adding a sodium or potassium hydroxide solution in water and / or alcohol. Methanolic sodium or potassium hydroxide solutions are particularly preferably used.
  • the saponification is carried out at temperatures in the range from 10 to 80 ° C., preferably in the range from 20 to 60 ° C.
  • the degree of saponification depends on the amount of base or acid used, the saponification temperature, the saponification time and the water content of the solution.
  • Particularly preferred graft bases d2) are polymers which are prepared by homopolymerizing vinyl acetate and then at least partially saponifying. Such polymers containing polyvinyl alcohol units are available under the name Mowiol®.
  • Starch and / or starch derivatives d3) are preferably used as component d). These include substances that contain saccharide structures. Such natural substances are, for example, saccharides of plant or animal origin or products which have been produced by metabolism by microorganisms, and their degradation products.
  • Suitable graft bases d3) are, for example, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, oxidatively, enzymatically or hydrolytically degraded polysaccharides, oxidatively hydrolytically degraded or oxidatively enzymatically degraded polysaccharides, chemically modified oligo- or polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred products are the compounds mentioned in US Pat. No. 5,334,287 in column 4, line 20 to column 5, line 45.
  • Suitable commercially available products are the C-Pur® and C-Dry® brands from Cerestar.
  • mixtures of compounds of component d) can be used. Are advantageous for.
  • the agents according to the invention particularly preferably contain a copolymer A) which can be obtained by radical polymerization of
  • the copolymer A) used in the agents according to the invention is preferably obtainable by radical copolymerization of
  • b) 40 to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of components a) to d), of at least one compound selected from vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, N, N-dimethylacrylamide and mixtures thereof,
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain a copolymer A) which can be obtained by radical polymerization of
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain a copolymer A) which can be obtained by radical polymerization of
  • copolymers A) are prepared by customary processes known to those skilled in the art, preferably by solution polymerization.
  • the polymerization temperatures are preferably in a range from about 30 to 120 ° C., particularly preferably 40 to 100 ° C.
  • the polymerization is usually carried out under atmospheric pressure, but it can also take place under reduced or elevated pressure.
  • a suitable pressure range is between 1 and 5 bar.
  • the peroxo and / or azo compounds customary for this purpose can be used as initiators for the radical polymerization, for example alkali or ammonium peroxydisulfates, diacetyl peroxide, dibenzoyl peroxide, succinyl peroxide, di-tert-butyl peroxide, tert-butyl perbenzoate, tert-butyl perpivalate , tert-butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate, tert-butyl permaleinate, cumene hydroperoxide, diisopropyl peroxidicarbamate, bis- (o-toluoyl) peroxide, didecanoyl peroxide, dioctanoyl peroxide, dilauroyl peroxide, tert-butyl peris-butyl peracetate, tert .-Amyl peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, azo-
  • Initiator mixtures or redox initiator systems such as. B. ascorbic acid / iron (II) sulfate / sodium peroxodisulfate, tert-butyl hydroperoxide / sodium disulfite, tert-butyl hydroperoxide / sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate.
  • the amounts of initiator or initiator mixtures used, based on the monomers used, are generally between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight.
  • the polymerization can take place, for example, in bulk. In bulk polymerization using a graft base d), this can be dissolved in at least one monomer and possibly other comonomers and, after the addition of a polymerization initiator, the mixture can be polymerized out.
  • the polymerization can also be carried out semi-continuously by first of all part, for. B. 10% of the mixture to be polymerized from the graft base d), at least one monomer from group a), possibly further comonomers and initiator, the mixture is heated to the polymerization temperature and after the polymerization has started, the rest of the mixture to be polymerized after the polymerization has progressed admits.
  • the polymers can also be obtained by placing the graft base d) in a reactor, heating to the polymerization temperature and adding and polymerizing at least one monomer from group a), possibly further comonomers and polymerization initiator either all at once, batchwise or, preferably, continuously ,
  • Suitable solvents are aqueous solvents, such as water, and mixtures of water with water-miscible solvents, for example alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, sec-butanol, tert-butanol, n-Hexanol and cyclohexanol as well as glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol and the methyl or ethyl ether of the dihydric alcohols, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, glycerin and dioxane.
  • Polymerization in water or a water / alcohol mixture for example in a water / ethanol mixture, is particularly preferred.
  • the ratio of alcohol to water in such mixtures is preferably in a range from 1: 1 to 1: 7% by volume.
  • the polymerization can be carried out in the presence of at least one regulator.
  • a regulator the usual compounds known to those skilled in the art, such as, for. B. sulfur compounds, e.g. B. mercaptoethanol, 2-ethylhexylthioglycolate, thioglycolic acid or dodecyl mercaptan, and tribromochloromethane or other compounds which regulate the molecular weight of the NEN polymers act, are used. Silicon-free controllers are preferably used.
  • the polymerization (main polymerization) can be followed by a post-polymerization step.
  • the post-polymerization can be carried out in the presence of the same or a different initiator system as the main polymerization.
  • the postpolymerization preferably takes place at least at the same temperature, preferably at a higher temperature than the main polymerization.
  • the temperature in the main and postpolymerization is preferably at most 90 ° C.
  • the polymerization is preferably carried out at a pH in the range from 6 to 8, particularly preferably from 6.4 to 7.4, in order to reduce the ammonia which may arise under the polymerization conditions can optionally react with monomers to form unwanted by-products.
  • the pH is adjusted by adding a suitable acid, such as lactic acid.
  • Products with particularly high purity and correspondingly advantageous properties for use in cosmetics can be achieved if the reaction product is subjected to steam distillation or steam stripping after the polymerization, if appropriate before and / or after postpolymerization.
  • This treatment with water vapor also essentially serves to remove ammonia and other undesirable by-products which can be removed with water vapor from the reaction mixture.
  • the steam treatment is preferably carried out at least between main and post-polymerization.
  • the pH of the polymerization product is preferably adjusted to a value of at most 6 before the steam treatment.
  • the temperature of the water vapor used and the treated polymer solution is preferably at least 90 ° C.
  • Copolymers A) which contain base groups can be partially or completely neutralized.
  • Polymers with amine groups can also be quaternizing agents, e.g. B. with alkylating agents such as C 1 -C 4 alkyl halides or sulfates can be converted into cationic groups. Examples of such alkylating agents are ethyl chloride, ethyl bromide, methyl chloride, methyl bromide, dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate.
  • the salts of the polymers obtained generally have better water solubility or dispersibility in water than the non-neutralized or quaternized polymers.
  • an organic solvent is used in the preparation of the polymers, this can be done by customary methods known to those skilled in the art, e.g. B. can be removed by distillation under reduced pressure.
  • the polymer solutions can by various drying processes, such as. B. spray drying, fluidized spray drying, roller drying or freeze drying can be transferred in powder form. Spray drying is preferably used.
  • the polymer dry powders obtained in this way can advantageously be converted again into an aqueous solution or dispersion by dissolving or redispersing them in water. Powdery copolymers have the advantage of better storage stability, easier transportation and generally have a lower tendency to infest germs.
  • the cosmetically acceptable carrier B) is preferably selected from
  • the agents according to the invention have z. B. an oil or fat component B), which is selected from: hydrocarbons of low polarity, such as mineral oils; linear saturated hydrocarbons, preferably with more than 8 carbon atoms, such as tetra-decane, hexadecane, octadecane, etc .; cyclic hydrocarbons such as decahydronaphthalene; branched hydrocarbons; animal and vegetable oils; To grow; Wax esters; Petroleum jelly; Esters, preferably esters of fatty acids, such as. B.
  • hydrocarbons of low polarity such as mineral oils
  • linear saturated hydrocarbons preferably with more than 8 carbon atoms, such as tetra-decane, hexadecane, octadecane, etc .
  • cyclic hydrocarbons such as decahydronaphthalene
  • branched hydrocarbons animal and vegetable oils
  • To grow Wax esters
  • Petroleum jelly Petroleum jelly
  • esters of dC 24 monoalcohols with CC 22 monocarboxylic acids such as isopropyl isostearate, n-propyl myristate, iso-propyl myristate, n-propyl palmitate, iso-propyl palmitate, hexaconasyl palmitate, octacosanyl palmitate, triacontanyl palmitate, tiacontanyl palmitate, Hexacosanyl stearate, octacosanyl stearate, triacontanyl stearate, dotriacontanyl stearate, tetratriacontanyl stearate; Salicylates such as dd.-salicylates, e.g.
  • the number average molecular weight of the polydimethylsiloxanes and poly (methylphenylsiloxanes) is preferably in a range from about 1000 to 150,000 g / mol.
  • Preferred cyclic siloxanes have 4- to 8-membered rings.
  • Suitable cyclic siloxanes are e.g. B. commercially available under the name Cyclomethicone.
  • Preferred oil or fat components B) are selected from paraffin and paraffin oils; Petroleum jelly; natural fats and oils, such as castor oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, cocoa butter, almond oil, peach kernel oil, castor oil, cod liver oil, pork lard, walnut, spermacet oil, sperm oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, evening primrose oil; Fatty alcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol; Fatty acids, such as myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and various saturated, unsaturated and substituted fatty acids; Waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candililla wax, walrus and mixtures of the oil or fat components mentioned above.
  • natural fats and oils
  • Suitable cosmetically and pharmaceutically acceptable oil or fat components B) are described in Karl-Heinz Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes for Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Verlag Wegig, Heidelberg, pp. 319-355, to which reference is made here.
  • Suitable hydrophilic carriers B) are selected from water, 1-, 2- or polyhydric alcohols with preferably 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, etc.
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention can be skin cosmetic, dermatological or hair cosmetic agents.
  • the agents according to the invention are preferably in the form of a gel, foam, spray, ointment, cream, emulsion, suspension, lotion, milk or paste. If desired, liposomes or microspheres can also be used.
  • the agents according to the invention are particularly preferably in the form of a gel, in particular in the form of a clear gel.
  • the cosmetically or pharmaceutically active agents according to the invention can additionally contain cosmetically and / or dermatologically active substances and auxiliaries.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one copolymer A as defined above, at least one carrier B as defined above, a light stabilizer C and at least one further constituent different therefrom, which is selected from cosmetically active ingredients, emulsifiers, Surfactants, preservatives, perfume oils, thickeners, hair polymers, hair and skin conditioners, graft polymers, water-soluble or dispersible silicone-containing polymers, bleaching agents, gelling agents, care agents, colorants, tinting agents, browning agents, dyes, pigments, consistency enhancers, moisturizing agents, moisturizing agents, moisturizing agents , Lipids, antioxidants, defoamers, antistatic agents, emoilizers, plasticizers.
  • cosmetically active ingredients emulsifiers, Surfactants, preservatives, perfume oils, thickeners, hair polymers, hair and skin conditioners, graft polymers, water-soluble or dispersible silicone-containing polymers, bleaching agents, gelling agents, care agents,
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one gel former (thickener).
  • gel formers customary in cosmetics can be used as gel formers. These include slightly cross-linked polyacrylic acid, for example carbomer (INCI), cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, cationically modified celluloses, polysaccharides, e.g. , B.
  • Xanthan gum capryl / caprin triglyceride, sodium acrylate copolymers, polyquaternium-32 (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (INCI), sodium acrylate copolymers (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6, acrylamidopropylthmonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, Steareth-10 allyl ether, acrylate copolymers, Polyquatemium-37 (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6, Polyquaternium 37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprate Dicaprylate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium -44.
  • Anionic polymers preferred as thickeners, especially for the formulation of gels are, for example, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and their salts.
  • This also includes cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, as are available under the INCI name Carbomer.
  • Crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid of this type are commercially available, for example, under the name Carbopol® from the company BF GOODRICH.
  • a preferred product is Carbopol® 940.
  • Hydrophobically modified crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, such as Carbopol® Ultrez 21 from Noveon, are also preferred.
  • anionic polymers as thickeners are copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and their salts; Sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, water-soluble or water-dispersible polyesters, polyurethanes and polyureas. Polymers are particularly suitable
  • Copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and polyether acrylates, the polyether chain being terminated with a C 8 -C 30 alkyl radical include e.g. B. Acrylate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers, which are available under the name Aculyn® from Rohm and Haas.
  • Particularly suitable thickeners are e.g. B Aculyn® 22 (copolymer made from acrylates and methacrylic acid ethoxylates with stearyl residue (20 EO units)) and Aculyn® 28 (copolymer made from acrylates and methacrylic acid ethoxylates with behenyl residue (25 EO units)).
  • Suitable cosmetically and / or dermatologically active ingredients are e.g. B. coloring agents, skin and hair pigmentation agents, tinting agents, tanning agents, bleaching agents, keratin-curing substances, antimicrobial agents, light filter agents, repellent agents, hyperemising agents, keratolytic and keratoplastic agents, antidandruff agents, anti-inflammatory agents, or keratinizing agents, as antioxidant agents Radical scavenger active ingredients, skin moisturizing or -Humidifying substances, lipid-replenishing active substances, anti-inflammatory or anti-allergic active substances and mixtures thereof.
  • Artificially tanning agents that are suitable for tanning the skin without natural or artificial radiation with UV rays are, for. B. dihydroxyacetone, alloxane and walnut shell extract.
  • Suitable keratin-curing substances are usually active substances, such as those used in antiperspirants, such as.
  • antiperspirants such as.
  • Antimicrobial agents are used to destroy microorganisms or inhibit their growth and thus serve both as a preservative and as a deodorizing substance, which reduces the formation or intensity of body odor. These include e.g. B.
  • deodorizing substances are e.g. B. Zincricinoate, triciosan, undecylenic acid alkylolamides, citric acid triethyl ester, chlorhexidine etc.
  • Suitable light filter substances are substances that absorb UV rays in the UV-B and / or UV-A range. Suitable UV filters are e.g. B.
  • 2,4,6-triaryl-1, 3,5-triazines in which the aryl groups can each carry at least one substituent, which is preferably selected from hydroxy, alkoxy, especially methoxy, alkoxycarbonyl, especially methoxycarbonyl and ethoxycarbonyl and mixtures thereof ,
  • Suitable repellent agents are compounds which are able to deter or drive away certain animals, in particular insects, from humans. This includes e.g. B.
  • Suitable hyperemising substances which stimulate blood circulation to the skin are e.g. B. essential oils, such as mountain pine, lavender, rosemary, juniper berry, horse chestnut extract, birch leaf extract, hay flower extract, ethyl acetate, camphor, menthol, peppermint oil, rosemary extract, eucalyptus oil, etc.
  • Suitable keratolytic and keratoplastic substances are.
  • Suitable anti-dandruff agents are, for. B.
  • Suitable anti-inflammatory drugs that counteract skin irritation are, for. B. allantoin, bisabolol, dragosantol, chamomile extract, panthenol, etc.
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention can contain at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable polymer different from compounds of component A) as a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredient (as well as optionally as an auxiliary).
  • These generally include anionic, cationic, amphoteric and neutral polymers.
  • anionic polymers are homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid or their salts, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and ren salts; Sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, water-soluble or water-dispersible polyesters, polyurethanes, e.g. B. Luviset PUR® from BASF, and polyureas.
  • Particularly suitable polymers are copolymers of t-butyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, methacrylic acid (eg Luvimer® 100P), copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (eg Luviflex® Soft and Luvimer® MAE), copolymers of
  • anionic polymers are also vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, such as are commercially available, for example, under the names Resyn® (National Starch) and Gafset® (GAF), and vinyl pyrrolidone / inylacrylate copolymers, available, for example, under the trademark Luviflex® ( BASF).
  • Suitable polymers are the vinyl pyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymer available under the name Luviflex® VBM-35 (BASF) and sodium sulfonate-containing polyamides or sodium sulfonate-containing polyester.
  • Suitable polymers are cationic polymers with the name Polyquaternium according to INCI, z.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat® FC, Luviquat® HM, Luviquat® MS, Luviquat® Care), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (Luviquat® PQ N-N-caprolate copolymers) / N-vinyl pyrrolidone / N-vinyl imidazolium salts (Luviquat® Hold); cationic cellulose derivatives (polyquaternium-4 and -10), acrylamido copolymers (polyquaternium-7) and chitosan.
  • Suitable cationic (quaternized) polymers are also Merquat® (polymer based on dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), Gafquat® (quaternary polymers which are formed by the reaction of polyvinylpyrrolidone with quaternary ammonium compounds), polymer JR (hydroxyethyl cellulose with cationic groups) and cationic polymers on vegetable Base, e.g. B. guar polymers, such as the Jaguar® brands from Rhodia.
  • suitable polymers are also neutral polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate and / or vinyl propionate, polysiloxanes, polyvinylcaprolactam and other copolymers with N-vinylpyrrolidone, polyethyleneimines and their salts, polyvinylamines and their salts, cellulose Polyaspartic acid salts and derivatives.
  • neutral polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate and / or vinyl propionate, polysiloxanes, polyvinylcaprolactam and other copolymers with N-vinylpyrrolidone, polyethyleneimines and their salts, polyvinylamines and their salts, cellulose Polyaspartic acid salts and derivatives.
  • Luviflex® Swing partially saponified copolymer of polyvinyl
  • Suitable polymers are also nonionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers or oligomers, such as polyvinylcaprolactam, eg. B. Luviskol® Plus (BASF), or polyvinylpyrrolidone and their copolymers, in particular with vinyl esters, such as vinyl acetate, for. B. Luviskol® VA 37 (BASF); Polyamides, e.g. B. based on itaconic acid and aliphatic diamines, such as z. B. are described in DE-A-43 33 238.
  • Suitable polymers are also amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, such as the octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers available under the names Amphomer® (National Starch), as well as zwitterionic polymers, as described, for example, in German patent applications DE 39 29 973, DE 21 50 557, DE 28 17 369 and DE 37 08 451 are disclosed.
  • Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers and their alkali and ammonium salts are preferred zwitterionic polymers.
  • zwitterionic polymers are methacroylethylbetaine / methacrylate copolymers, which are commercially available under the name Amersette® (AMERCHOL), and copolymers of hydroxyethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid (Jordapon®).
  • Suitable polymers are also nonionic, siloxane-containing, water-soluble or
  • -Dispersible polymers e.g. B. polyether siloxanes, such as Tegopren® (from Goldschmidt) or Belsil® (from Wacker).
  • the formulation base of pharmaceutical agents according to the invention preferably contains pharmaceutically acceptable excipients.
  • the excipients known to be usable in the field of pharmacy, food technology and adjacent areas are pharmaceutically acceptable, in particular the excipients listed in relevant pharmacopoeias (e.g. DAB Ph. Eur. BP NF) and other excipients, the properties of which do not conflict with physiological application.
  • Suitable auxiliaries can be: lubricants, wetting agents, emulsifying and suspending agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, anti-irritants, chelating agents, emulsion stabilizers, film-forming agents, gelling agents, odor masking agents, resins, hydrocolloids, solvents, solubilizers, neutralizing agents, permeation compounds, accelerators, ammonium, pigment, Refatting and overfatting agents, ointment, cream or oil base materials, silicone derivatives, stabilizers, sterilants, blowing agents, drying agents, opacifiers, thickeners, waxes, plasticizers, white oils.
  • a design in this regard is based on professional knowledge, as is shown, for example, in Fiedler, H. P. Lexikon der Hilfsstoff für Pharmazie, Kosmetik und neighboring areas, 4th ed., Aulendorf: ECV-Editio-Kantor-Verlag, 1996.
  • the active ingredients can be mixed or diluted with a suitable excipient.
  • Excipients can be solid, semi-solid or liquid materials that can serve as vehicles, carriers or media for the active ingredient. If desired, further auxiliaries are admixed in the manner known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the agents according to the invention are a skin cleanser.
  • Preferred skin cleansers are soaps with a liquid to gel-like consistency, such as transparent soaps, luxury soaps, deodorant soaps, cream soaps, baby soaps, skin protection soaps, abrasive soaps and syndets, paste-like soaps, soft soaps and washing pastes, liquid washing, showering and bathing preparations, such as washing lotions, shower baths and gels , Bubble baths, oil baths and scrub preparations.
  • the agents according to the invention are cosmetic agents for the care and protection of the skin, nail care agents or preparations for decorative cosmetics.
  • the skin care products according to the invention are in particular W / O or O / W skin creams, day and night creams, eye creams, face creams, anti-wrinkle creams, moisturizing creams, bleaching creams, vitamin creams, skin lotions, care lotions and moisturizing lotions.
  • the polymers can be used, among other things
  • the polymers can also act as thickeners in the formulations. By adding the polymers according to the invention, a considerable improvement in skin tolerance can be achieved in certain formulations.
  • Skin cosmetic and dermatological agents preferably contain at least one copolymer A) in a proportion of approximately 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.1 to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
  • the agents according to the invention are well suited for use as light stabilizers.
  • the agents according to the invention can be used in a form suitable for skin care, such as. B. as a cream, foam, gel, stick, mousse, milk, spray (pump spray or spray containing blowing agent) or lotion.
  • a form suitable for skin care such as. B. as a cream, foam, gel, stick, mousse, milk, spray (pump spray or spray containing blowing agent) or lotion.
  • the skin cosmetic preparations can also contain other active ingredients and auxiliaries customary in skin cosmetics, as described above.
  • These preferably include emulsifiers, preservatives, perfume oils, cosmetic active ingredients such as phytantriol, vitamins A, E and C, retinol, bisaboiol, panthenol, light stabilizers, bleaches, colorants, tinting agents, tanning agents, collagen, protein hydrolyzates, stabilizers, pH Value regulators, dyes, salts, thickeners, gelling agents, consistency enhancers, silicones, humectants, moisturizers and other common additives.
  • emulsifiers emulsifiers, preservatives, perfume oils, cosmetic active ingredients such as phytantriol, vitamins A, E and C, retinol, bisaboiol, panthenol, light stabilizers, bleaches, colorants, tinting agents, tanning agents, collagen, protein hydrolyzates, stabilizers, pH Value regulators, dyes, salts, thickeners, gelling agents, consistency enhancers, silicones, humectants, moisturize
  • Preferred oil and fat components of the skin cosmetic and dermatological agents are the aforementioned mineral and synthetic oils, such as, for. B. paraffins, silicone oils and aliphatic hydrocarbons with more than 8 carbon atoms, animal and vegetable oils, such as. B. sunflower oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, olive oil, lanolin, or waxes, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, such as. B. triglycerides of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids, wax esters, such as. B. jojoba oil, fatty alcohols, petroleum jelly, hydrogenated lanolin and acetylated lanolin and mixtures thereof.
  • mineral and synthetic oils such as, for. B. paraffins, silicone oils and aliphatic hydrocarbons with more than 8 carbon atoms, animal and vegetable oils, such as. B. sunflower oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, olive oil, lanolin, or waxes, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, such as. B. triglycerides of C 6 -C
  • the polymers according to the invention can also be mixed with conventional polymers if special properties are to be set.
  • the skin cosmetic and dermatological preparations can additionally contain conditioning substances based on silicone compounds.
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyarylalkylsiloxanes, polyether siloxanes or silicone resins.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations are produced by customary methods known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological agents are preferably in the form of emulsions, in particular in the form of water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.
  • W / O water-in-oil
  • O / W oil-in-water
  • Emulsions are prepared by known methods.
  • the emulsions generally contain customary constituents, such as fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and in particular fatty acid triglycerides, fatty acids, lanolin and derivatives thereof, natural or synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers in the presence of water.
  • customary constituents such as fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and in particular fatty acid triglycerides, fatty acids, lanolin and derivatives thereof, natural or synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers in the presence of water.
  • a suitable emulsion e.g. B. for a skin cream, etc., generally contains an aqueous phase which is emulsified in an oil or fat phase by means of a suitable emulsifier system.
  • the proportion of the emulsifier system in this type of emulsion is preferably about 4 and 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the proportion of the fat phase is preferably about 20 to 60% by weight.
  • the proportion of the aqueous phase is preferably about 20 and 70%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsifiers are those which are usually used in this type of emulsion.
  • C 12 -C 18 sorbitan fatty acid esters are selected, for example, from: C 12 -C 18 sorbitan fatty acid esters; Esters of hydroxystearic acid and C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols; Mono- and diesters of C 12 -C 18 fatty acids and glycerin or polyglycerin; Condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene glycols; oxypropylenated / oxyethylated C 12 -C 18 fatty alcohols; polycyclic alcohols such as sterols; high molecular weight aliphatic alcohols such as lanolin; Mixtures of oxypropylene / polyglycerolated alcohols and magnesium isostearate; Succinic esters of polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated fatty alcohols; and mixtures of magnesium, calcium, lithium, zinc or aluminum lanolate and hydrogenated lanolin or lanolin alcohol.
  • Preferred fat components which can be contained in the fat phase of the emulsions are: hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin oil, purcellin oil, perhydrosqualene and solutions of microcrystalline waxes in these oils; animal or vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, calophylum oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof, castor oil, semen oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, karite oil, hoplostethus oil; mineral oils whose distillation begins at atmospheric pressure at approx. 250 ° C and whose distillation end point is 410 ° C, e.g. B. Vaseline oil; Esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, such as alkyl myristates, e.g. B.
  • the fat phase can also contain silicone oils soluble in other oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane and the silicone glycol copolymer, fatty acids and fatty alcohols.
  • waxes can also be used in addition to the polymers A), such as, for example, B. Camauba wax, candililla wax, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite wax and Ca, Mg and Al oleates, myristates, linoleates and stearates.
  • the water-in-oil emulsions are prepared by placing the fat phase and the emulsifier in a batch container. You heat it up at a temperature of about 50 to 75 ° C, then adds the oil-soluble active ingredients and / or auxiliaries and adds, with stirring, water which has previously been heated to about the same temperature and in which the water-soluble ingredients have optionally been dissolved beforehand. The mixture is stirred until an emulsion of the desired fineness is obtained and then allowed to cool to room temperature, stirring less if necessary.
  • the agents according to the invention are a shower gel, a shampoo formulation or a bath preparation.
  • shower gels are preferred, in particular clear shower gels.
  • All anionic, neutral, amphoteric or cationic surfactants commonly used in personal cleansing agents can be used in the washing, showering and bathing preparations.
  • washing, showering and bathing preparations can contain conventional cationic surfactants, such as. B. quaternary ammonium compounds, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.
  • conventional cationic polymers can be used, such as. B.
  • shower gel / shampoo formulations thickeners such.
  • B table salt, PEG-55, propylene glycol oleates, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleates and others, and preservatives, other active ingredients and auxiliaries and water.
  • the agents according to the invention are a hair treatment agent.
  • Hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one copolymer A) in an amount in the range from about 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • At least one refatting agent preferably selected from glycerol and glycerol derivatives
  • the hair treatment compositions can also be in the form of hair sprays or hair foams.
  • Hair sprays and hair foams preferably comprise predominantly or exclusively water-soluble or water-dispersible components.
  • the compounds used in the hair sprays and hair foams according to the invention are water-dispersible, they can be used in the form of aqueous microdispersions with particle diameters of usually 1 to 350 nm, preferably 1 to 250 nm.
  • the solids contents of these preparations are usually in a range from about 0.5 to 20% by weight.
  • These microdispersions generally do not require any emulsifiers or surfactants to stabilize them.
  • Preferred hair treatment agents are in the form of an aqueous dispersion or in the form of an alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution.
  • suitable alcohols are ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can generally contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example plasticizers, such as glycerol and glycol; emollients; perfumes; surfactants; UV component different from component C); dyes; antistatic agents; Combing agents; Preservatives; and defoamers.
  • plasticizers such as glycerol and glycol
  • emollients such as glycerol and glycol
  • perfumes such as glycerol and glycol
  • surfactants such as glycerol and glycol
  • UV component different from component C such as glycerol and glycol
  • dyes such as antistatic agents
  • Combing agents Preservatives; and defoamers
  • defoamers for example a low-boiling hydrocarbon or ether, such as propane, butane, isobutane or dimethyl ether.
  • Compressed gases such as nitrogen, air or carbon dioxide can also be used as blowing agents.
  • the amount of blowing agent can be kept low so as not to unnecessarily increase the VOC content. It is then generally not more than 55% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. If desired, however, higher VOC contents of 85% by weight and above are also possible.
  • polymers A) described above can also be used in combination with other hair polymers in the compositions.
  • Suitable polymers are those described above.
  • the other hair polymers are preferably present in amounts of up to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • a preferred hair treatment agent in the form of a hair spray or hair foam contains:
  • a carrier selected from water and water-miscible solvents, preferably C 2 -C 5 alcohols, in particular ethanol, and mixtures from that,
  • blowing agent preferably selected from dimethyl ether and alkanes, such as. B. propane / butane mixtures,
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for protecting a cosmetic composition containing
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of a stabilizer composition consisting of or containing at least one ester of p-aminobenzoic acid, as previously defined, for protecting a cosmetic composition
  • Feed 1 Monomer mixture of: 240 g (50% aqueous solution) acrylamide and 533.4 g (15% aqueous solution) methacrylamide
  • Feed 4 initiator solution from: 2 g of Wako V 50 [2,2'-azobis (2-amidinopropane) - dihydrochloride] and 90 g of water
  • Feed 5 1 g of 90% lactic acid in 9 g of water
  • feed 4 was added within 30 minutes and feed 5 within 5 minutes, and the polymer solution was polymerized for a further approx. Three hours at a temperature of approx. 70 ° C. About 800 g of an about 22% polymer solution were obtained. The solution was treated with steam for about 1 hour and stirred at a temperature of about 100 ° C for 2 hours.
  • VCap N-vinyl caprolactam
  • PVOH partially saponified polyvinyl alcohol (Mowiol® 4-88, Clariant)
  • 3% by weight of a commercially available hair polymer eg B: polyacrylic acid amide, C: polyvinylformamide, D: polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • B polyacrylic acid amide
  • C polyvinylformamide
  • D polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • Table 2 The application properties are shown in Table 2. The products still need improvement with regard to their stickiness.
  • the clarity of the gels can be improved by adding up to 20% by weight of ethanol.
  • component A is placed in a flask, component B is stirred in and dispersed until the particles sink to the bottom. Then component C is added and the mixture is stirred until a homogeneous gel forms. Component D is mixed and stirred until dissolved. Then component D is added to the gel. pH value: 7.2, viscosity (Brookfield): 30500 mPas, transmission: 97% (600 nm) 2. "Hard Hold" gel:
  • component A is placed in a flask, component B is stirred in and dispersed until the particles sink to the bottom. Then component C is added and the mixture is stirred until a homogeneous gel has formed forms. Component D is mixed and stirred until dissolved. Then component D is added to the gel. pH: 6.9, viscosity (Brookfield): 47600 mPas, transmission: 97.5% (600 nm)
  • component A is placed in a flask, component B is stirred in and dispersed until the particles sink to the bottom. Then component C is added and the mixture is stirred until a homogeneous gel forms. Component D is mixed and stirred until dissolved. Then component D is added to the gel. pH value: 7.25, viscosity (Brookfield): 44000 mPas, transmission: 95.0% (600 nm)

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un agent cosmétique qui contient au moins un ester de l'acide p-aminobenzoïque et au moins un copolymère hydrosoluble et qui peut être obtenu par copolymérisation radicalaire d'amide d'acide acrylique et/ou d'amide d'acide méthacrylique et d'autres composés copolymérisables avec ceux-ci, hydrosolubles et α,β-éthyléniquement insaturés, éventuellement en présence d'une base polymère greffée hydrosoluble.
PCT/EP2004/012232 2003-10-29 2004-10-28 Agent cosmetique contenant un copolymere qui presente des unites amide d'acide (meth)acrylique et un ester de l'acide p-aminobenzoique WO2005041909A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE2003150359 DE10350359A1 (de) 2003-10-29 2003-10-29 Kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend ein Copolymer mit (Meth)acrylsäureamideinheiten und einen Ester der p-Aminobenzoesäure
DE10350359.5 2003-10-29

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WO2005041909A1 true WO2005041909A1 (fr) 2005-05-12

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008058989A1 (fr) * 2006-11-17 2008-05-22 Unilever Plc Procédé de dérivation des cheveux avec un réactif de polyéthylèneglycol
FR3114503A1 (fr) * 2020-09-30 2022-04-01 L'oreal COMPOSITION D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE COSMÉTIQUE EN GEL AQUEUX, processus de fabrication de la COMPOSITION D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE COSMÉTIQUE EN GEL AQUEUX et utilisation de la COMPOSITION D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE COSMÉTIQUE EN GEL AQUEUX

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102005056497A1 (de) * 2005-11-28 2007-05-31 Beiersdorf Ag Transparente oder transluzente Gele

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20010003584A1 (en) * 1999-12-02 2001-06-14 Susanne Birkel Polymer ingredient combinations for hair treatment compositions
WO2001049575A1 (fr) * 1999-12-29 2001-07-12 Unilever Plc Bouteilles transparentes/translucides contenant un colorant fluorescent dans la paroi laterale
DE10160720A1 (de) * 2001-12-11 2003-06-18 Basf Ag Kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend wenigstens ein Copolymer mit N-Vinyllactameinheiten
WO2003092640A2 (fr) * 2002-05-03 2003-11-13 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Produit cosmetique contenant au moins un copolymere ayant des unites amides d'acide (meth)acrylique et soluble dans l'eau

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20010003584A1 (en) * 1999-12-02 2001-06-14 Susanne Birkel Polymer ingredient combinations for hair treatment compositions
WO2001049575A1 (fr) * 1999-12-29 2001-07-12 Unilever Plc Bouteilles transparentes/translucides contenant un colorant fluorescent dans la paroi laterale
DE10160720A1 (de) * 2001-12-11 2003-06-18 Basf Ag Kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend wenigstens ein Copolymer mit N-Vinyllactameinheiten
WO2003092640A2 (fr) * 2002-05-03 2003-11-13 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Produit cosmetique contenant au moins un copolymere ayant des unites amides d'acide (meth)acrylique et soluble dans l'eau

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008058989A1 (fr) * 2006-11-17 2008-05-22 Unilever Plc Procédé de dérivation des cheveux avec un réactif de polyéthylèneglycol
FR3114503A1 (fr) * 2020-09-30 2022-04-01 L'oreal COMPOSITION D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE COSMÉTIQUE EN GEL AQUEUX, processus de fabrication de la COMPOSITION D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE COSMÉTIQUE EN GEL AQUEUX et utilisation de la COMPOSITION D’ÉCRAN SOLAIRE COSMÉTIQUE EN GEL AQUEUX

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