WO2004052321A1

WO2004052321A1 - Anti-gloss cosmetic for the face

Info

Publication number: WO2004052321A1
Application number: PCT/EP2003/050929
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ghita LANZENDÖRFER; Heiner Max; Corinna Zu Putlitz; Jens Nielsen
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2002-12-07
Filing date: 2003-12-03
Publication date: 2004-06-24
Also published as: DE10257246A1

Abstract

The invention relates to aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations with a viscosity less than 3000 mPas, comprising one or more powder raw materials from the group of sugar derivatives, in an amount of from 0.5 to 10 wt. %, based on the total weight of the preparation, the combination of the above and a ball-applicator and the use thereof.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

Anti-sexual gender cosmetic

The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation with a viscosity of less than 3000 mPas containing one or more powder raw materials from the group of sugar derivatives in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, the combination of this preparation and a ball head applicator, and their use.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in people. Even if the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been the goal of people. The condition and appearance of the skin has a significant part in a beautiful and attractive exterior.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of external substances and UV radiation. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

In order for the skin to fully fulfill its biological functions, it needs regular cleaning and care. The cleaning of the skin serves to remove dirt, sweat and residues of dead skin particles, which form an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. The skin is usually cleaned with the help of surface-active preparations (soaps, surfactants, less often alcoholic preparations), which are in the form of foam-forming gels or solids (soap bars) and are rinsed off with water after application to the skin. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments or lotions, mostly serve to moisturize and regrease the skin. Active ingredients that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce its premature aging (for example the appearance of wrinkles, wrinkles) are often added to them. 5

In addition to cleaning and caring for the skin, cosmetics also have an aesthetic task. They are intended to "improve" the external appearance of the user in accordance with the respective cultural ideas. Cosmetics thus fulfill a psychological-social function, since they increase the (visual) attractiveness of the users. 0 This category primarily includes "decorative" cosmetics, which changes the appearance of the user with the help of dyes applied to the skin. Indirectly, however, cleaning and care products also have a positive impact, since clean, healthy skin corresponds to people's ideal of beauty.

5 The appearance of the facial skin is of particular importance in this context, since the face is perceived by the environment as a "figurehead" of humans, and is particularly perceived by the environment. In addition to the classic decorative cosmetics, eyeshadow has cleaning and care products on the facial skin in particular and lipstick, a distinctive aesthetic function, for example there are a large number of preparations for the treatment and prophylaxis of blemished skin or acne skin.

However, oily skin or areas of skin that are very shiny, so-called T-zones, are also perceived as optically unattractive. A series of matting creams that contain a number of powder raw materials that absorb the sebum have so far been offered for the treatment of very shiny 5 skin areas. However, such creams have a number of disadvantages: For example, creams usually have to be applied to the face with the fingers. This not only leads to an increased microbial contamination of the cream by the hands, which are particularly densely populated with microorganisms. Furthermore, the fingers / hands themselves are “contaminated” with the fatty creams produced on the basis of emulsions, as a result of which such an application outside of sanitary facilities is usually impractical. Repeated application during the day is therefore difficult. Since matting creams are usually produced on an emulsion basis they also have the disadvantage

6713Wzbθ202112 that they apply greasy, shiny substances to the skin, which counteracts the mattifying effect of the cream.

Sprayable preparations are an alternative to matting creams. However, these can usually not be applied specifically to the skin areas concerned. The dosage of the preparation is usually difficult. Last but not least, the incorporation of sufficiently large quantities of powder raw materials into sprayable preparations is a problem in itself, since the spray heads easily become blocked by the powder raw material.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate the shortcomings of the prior art and to develop a cosmetic for the treatment and prophylaxis of shiny skin areas which can be applied particularly simply and cleanly. The preparation of the cosmetic should penetrate the skin quickly and suppress the (oily) skin gloss quickly and long-lasting.

The object is surprisingly achieved by an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation with a viscosity of less than 3000 mPas, containing one or more powder raw materials from the group of sugar derivatives in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight on the total weight of the preparation.

The preparation according to the invention can be easily applied to the skin with a ball-head application device, as is known from so-called deodorant rollers. The preparation according to the invention absorbs onto the skin surprisingly quickly and leads to a subtle and long-lasting matting of the treated skin areas.

Low viscosity cosmetic preparations from the field of deodorants are known per se. For example, they are widely used in so-called deodorant rollers. However, the preparations according to the invention differ fundamentally from such preparations. "Roller-capable" deodorant preparations are formed on the basis of emulsions which to a large extent contain lipids and large amounts of emulators. Furthermore, the deodorant preparations contain antiperspirant salts in high concentrations (usually 5-15% by weight ). However, they contain no powder raw materials, since according to previous experience these can easily lead to blockages (and thus to a functional failure) of the ball head applicator. By contrast, the preparations according to the invention are advantageously formed from a thickened water base or aqueous-alcoholic base and contain large amounts of powder raw materials.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the viscosity of the preparation according to the invention is less than 2500 mPas and particularly preferred if the preparation of the invention is less than 2000 mPas.

The viscosity according to the invention is measured using a Haake type VT02 spindle II rotary visosimeter at a shear rate of 10.33 m / s.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the powder raw materials are selected from the group of sugar derivatives from a) starch and / or starch derivatives and b) cyclodextrins and / or cyclodextrin derivatives, the weight ratio of the total amount of starch and / or starch derivatives to the total amount of cyclodextrins and / or cyclodextrin derivatives according to the invention advantageously from 1: 5 to 20: 1, preferably from 1: 1 to 10: 1 and very particularly preferably from 5: 1 to 10: 1.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the starch and / or starch derivatives are selected from the group of starch phosphate, tapioca starch, starch acetyl- or adipic acid substituted, hydroxypropylated starch, starch substituted with N-octenyl succinate, corn starch, 2-hydropropyl ether modified starch and Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate esters, with distarch phosphate and tapioca starch being preferred according to the invention.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the cyclodextrins and / or cyclodextrin derivatives are selected from the group σ-, β-, v- and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, with β-cyclodextrin being preferred according to the invention. It is advantageous according to the invention that the powder raw materials according to the invention from the group of sugar derivatives in a total amount of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of 2 to 8% by weight and very particularly preferably in an amount of 3 to 6% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention is thickened to form a gel in order to adjust the viscosity according to the invention. For this purpose, one or more thickeners (thickeners) are advantageously added to the preparation according to the invention.

The thickeners can advantageously be selected, for example, from further compounds from the group of the gums.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.

The use of derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxy-propyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

The cosmetic preparations which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride or chlorides have a charge density of 0.4 to 1.0 meq / g and a molecular weight of 100,000 to 1,800,000. Guar-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides preferred according to the invention come from the Jaguar series; the Jaguar Excel product from Rhodia is particularly preferred according to the invention.

According to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides in a concentration of 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.01 to 2% by weight and entirely

6713Wzbθ202112 particularly preferably used in a concentration of 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

The use of polysaccharides and derivatives is also advantageous according to the invention.

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.

The use of cellulose derivatives is also advantageous according to the invention.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.

The use of layered silicates is also advantageous according to the invention.

Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectdrite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form as thickeners, e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

The use of polyacrylates is furthermore preferred according to the invention.

The polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Noveon (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).

The use of polymers is also advantageous according to the invention. The polymers include, for example, polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

According to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more thickeners in a concentration of 0.3 to 0.7% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.3 to 0.6% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.4 up to 0.6% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, it is particularly preferred if polyacrylates are used as thickeners.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to the invention is characterized in that it advantageously contains water in a concentration of at least 80% by weight, preferably in a concentration of at least 85% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of at least 90% by weight. each based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain one or more humectants. Humectants (so-called moisturizers) within the meaning of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soybean, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available.

It is advantageous according to the invention to use one or more humectants in a concentration of 5 to 10% by weight, preferably 6 to 9% by weight and very particularly preferably 7 to 8% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains one or more alcohols. According to the invention, the alcohol is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 1-propanol, 2-propanol and ethanol, the latter being particularly preferred according to the invention.

In the embodiments which are advantageous according to the invention, the total concentration of alcohol is from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight and particularly preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more preservatives. Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ™), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc. The table below gives an overview of some preservatives which are advantageous according to the invention:

6713Wzbe202112

Also useful in cosmetics are preservatives or preservatives, such as dibodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3- diol, imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid and salicylates.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention if parabens (methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben) and / or phenoxyethanol are used as preservatives.

According to the invention, one or more preservatives are advantageously used in a concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight and preferably 0.6 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

The preparation according to the invention advantageously contains one or more conditioners. Preferred conditioners according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are described in Section 4 below in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occlusive and Skin Protectans are all listed in the EP 0934956 (p.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent. Further conditioners which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, the compounds named polyquaternium according to the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients (INCI). For example, polyquaternium-1 to polyquaternium-56, but also the polyethylene glycols and polyproylene glycols which are advantageous according to the invention.

In addition, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain further cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9). 0

In addition to the aforementioned substances, the compositions optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides , Repellents, self-tanners (e.g. DHA), depigmenting agents (e.g. 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name octadecendioic acid)), pigments that have a coloring effect , softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as emulsifiers, polymers, foam stabilizers, peeling substances (abrasives, eg polymer beads or powder made of polyethylene, polypropylene etc. inorganic oxides, silicates etc. ), Antiperspirant salts (e.g. acidic aluminum and / or Aluminum / zirconium salts such as aluminum chlorohydrate and / or aluminum / zirconium chlorohydrate) and electrolytes.

'.5

Antiperspirant salts can advantageously be present according to the invention in a concentration of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

The preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more anti-acne active ingredients. Anti-acne active substances which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, lactic acid and / or salicylic acid. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can contain a number of pigments.

The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe ₂ 0 ₃ , Fe ₃ 0 ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Aullage, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

Chemical or other name CIN color

Pigment Green 10006 Green

Acid Green 1 10020 Green

2,4-dinitrohydroxynaphthalene-7-sulfonic acid 10316 yellow

Pigment Yellow 1 11680 yellow

Pigment Yellow 3 11710 yellow

Pigment Orange 1 11725 Orange

2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene 11920 orange

Solvent Red 3 12010 Red

1 - (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1 '-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 12085 red

Pigment Red 3 12120 red

Ceresrot; Sudan Red; Fat red G 12150 red

Pigment Red 112 12370 Red

Pigment Red 7 12420 red

Pigment Brown 1 12480 Brown

4- (2'-Methoxy-5'-sulfonic acid diethylamide-1'-phenylazo) -3-hy- 12490 red hydroxy-5 "-chloro-2", 4 "-dimethoxy-2-naphthoic acid anilide

Disperse Yellow 16 12700 Yellow

1 - (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -4-amino-benzene-5-sulfonic acid 13015 yellow

2,4-Dihydroxy-azobenzene-4'-sulfonic acid 14270 orange

2- (2,4-dimethylphenylazo-5-sulfonic acid) -1-hydroxynaphthalene-14700 red

4-sulfonic acid

2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1 -naphthol-4-sulfonic acid 14720 red

2- (6-sulfo-2,4-xylylazo) -1-naphthol-5-sulfonic acid 14815 red

1- (4'-Sulfophenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15510 orange

1 - (2-sulfonic acid-4-chloro-5-carboxylic acid-1-phenylazo) -2- 15525 red hydroxynaphthalene

1- (3-methyl-phenylazo-4-sulfonic acid) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15580 red

1- (4 ', (8') - sulfonic acid naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15620 red

2-hydroxy-1, 2'-azonaphthalene-1 'sulfo acid 15630 red

3-Hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15800 red

1 - (2-Sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15850 red

1 - (2-Sulfo-4-methyl-5-chloro-1-phenylazo) -2-hydroxy- 15865 red naphthalene-3-carboxylic acid

6713Wzbθ202112 Chemical or other name CIN color

1- (2-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid 15880 red

1 - (3-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15980 orange

1 - (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15985 yellow

Allura Red 16035 red

1- (4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 16185 red

Acid Orange 10 16230 Orange

1- (4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid 16255 red

1 - (4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6,8-trisulfonic acid 16290 red

8-amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 17200 red

Acid Red 1 18050 Red

Acid Red 155 18 130 Red

Acid Yellow 121 18690 yellow

Acid Red 180 18736 Red

Acid Yellow 11 18820 Yellow

Acid Yellow 17 18965 yellow

4- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-19140 yellow pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid

Pigment Yellow 16 20040 yellow

2,6- (4'-sulfo-2 ", 4" -dimethyl) bis-phenylazo) 1, 3-dihydroxy- 20170 orange benzene

Acid Black 1 20470 Black

Pigment Yellow 13 21 100 yellow

Pigment Yellow 83 21 108 Yellow

Solvent Yellow 21230 yellow

Acid Red 163 24790 Red

Acid Red 73 27 290 Red

2- [4 '- (4 "-sulfo-1" -phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1' -naphthylazo] -1 - 27755 black hydroxy-7-aminonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid

4 '- [(4 "-sulfo-1" -phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1' -naphthylazo] -1 -hydroxy- 28440 black

8-acetyl-aminonaphthalene-θ, 5-disulfonic acid

Direct Orange 34, 39, 44, 46, 60 40215 Orange

Food Yellow 40800 orange trans-beta-apo-8'-Carotinaldehyd _(C30) 40820 orange trans-Apo-8'-carotene acid (C ₃ o) ethyl ester 40825 orange

Canthaxanthin 40850 orange

Acid Blue 1 42045 Blue

2,4-disulfo-5-hydroxy-4'-4 "-bis- (diethylamino) triphenyl- 42051 blue carbinol

4 - [(- 4-N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino) phenyl- (4-hydroxy-2-sulfo-42053 green phenyl) - (methylene) -1- (N-ethylN-p-sulfobenzyl) -2, 5- cyclohexadienimine]

Acid Blue 7 42080 Blue

(N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino) phenyl- (2-sulfophenyl) - 42090 blue methylene- (N-ethyl-Np-sulfobenzyl) Δ ^2, -cyclohexadienimine

Acid Green 9 42 100 Green

Diethyl-di-sulfobenzyl-di-4-amino-2-chloro-di-2-methyl- 42170 green foxsonmonium

Basic Violet 14 42510 Violet

Basic Violet 2 42520 Violet Chemical or other name CIN color

2'-Methyl-4 ^, - (N-ethyl-Nm-sulfobenzyl) -amino-4 "- (N-diethyl) - 42735 blue amino-2-methyl-N-ethylN-m-sulfobenzyl-fuchsonimmonium

4 '- (N-Dimethyl) -amino-4 "- (N-phenyl) -aminonaphtho-N- 44045 blue dimethyl-fuchsonimmonium

2-hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4'-bis-dimethylamino- 44090 green naphthofuchsonimmonium

Acid Red 52 45 100 Red

3- (2'-Methylphenylamino) -6- (2'-methyl-4'-sulfophenylamino) - 45190 Violet

9- (2 'carboxyphenyl) -xantheniumsalz

Acid Red 50 45 220 Red

Phenyl-2-oxyfluoron-2-carboxylic acid 45350 yellow

4,5-dibromofluorescein 45370 orange

2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein 45380 red

Solvent Dye 45396 Orange

Acid Red 98 45405 Red

S '^'. S'.β'-tetrachlor ^ Aδ -tetrabromofluorescein 45410 red

4,5-Diiodofluorescein 45425 red

2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein 45430 red

Quinophthalone 47000 yellow

Quinophthalone disulfonic acid 47005 yellow

It may also be expedient to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-f-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo -4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) - 2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1 - (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6, 8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 8-amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy- pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, 4 '- [(4 "-sulfo-1" -phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1' -naphthylazo] -1-hydroxy-8-acetylaminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acid, aluminum - and zirconium salts of 4.5 -Dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3'A ', 5', & - tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4 , 5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, 4,4'-dimethyl-6.6 ^l dichlorothioindigo, complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) of carminic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN : 77 491 (red) and 77499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate (CIN 77745), ultramarine (CIN 77007) and titanium dioxide.

6713Wzbθ202112 Preparations according to the invention can contain titanium dioxides, which can be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modification and, for the purposes of the present invention, are advantageously surface-treated (“coated”), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by methods known per se The various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ 0 ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaP0 ₃ ) β, sodium metaphosphate (NaP0 ₃ ) _π , silicon dioxide (Si0 ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), zirconium oxide (Zr0 ₂ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials. For this purpose, oxides, oxide hydrates or phosphates, for example of the elements Al, Si, Zr, are struck in dense layers on the pigment surface.

The inorganic aftertreatment generally takes place in an aqueous suspension of the pigment by adding soluble aftertreatment chemicals, e.g. Aluminum sulfate, and subsequent precipitation of the hydroxide, which is sparingly soluble in the neutral range, by specifically adjusting the pH with sodium hydroxide solution. After the inorganic aftertreatment, the coated pigments are separated from the suspension by filtration and washed carefully to remove the dissolved salts, and the isolated pigments are then dried.

For the purposes of this invention, particular preference is given to titanium dioxides to which aluminum hydroxide has been applied to the surface, such as the titanium dioxide types C47-051 and C47- 5175 available from Sun Chemical. Further preferred pigments are titanium dioxide, which are coated with aluminum and / or silicon oxides, such as e.g. from Krosnos Titan: Kronos 1071 and 1075 or from Kingfisher: A310.03 Tudor Aspen.

6713WZDΘ202112 Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses. The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations ,

The preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more O / W emulsifiers in a low concentration (up to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation). These can be selected, for example, from the group glyceryl stearate in combination with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in combination with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium - tylstearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl glycolate in combination with propylene glycol 9-stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, Ceteth-2, Ceteth-20, Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-65, Polysorbate-100 , Glyceryl stearate in combination with PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, Laureth-4, Ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, Laureth-23, glyceryl-23, steareth yl stearate in combination with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, Methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 in Combination with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate , PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, stearamido-5 propyl-PG-di onium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate 20-methylglucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglyceryl-methyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, isostearyl-10-sto-10-polyglycerol , Isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in combination with ceteareth-0 20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Furthermore, the preparation according to the invention can contain fatty alcohols or an oil phase in a concentration of up to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of preparation 5.

The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 0 special 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like. .5

According to the invention, z. B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters

6713Wzbθ202112 , _, ",

WO 2004/052321

17

aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyltrimic gemellate, as well as synthetic such as. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, an oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.

It is further preferred that the oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, cocoglycerides (eg Myritol® 331 from Henkel) _3- alkyl lactate, di-C ₁₂ ι ₃ -alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of Ci ₂ -i ₅ -alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also z. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Corapan®TQ from Haarmann & Reimer).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Furthermore, an oil phase can also advantageously also contain nonpolar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched oils.

6713Wzbe202112 hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

An oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [polydimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, are also advantageous, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimimethicones) and. B. polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Advantageous in the sense of the present invention is the storage and use of the preparation according to the invention from a storage vessel with a spherical head application device analogous to a deodorant roller. According to the invention, therefore, a ball-head application device for applying cosmetic preparations containing a cosmetic preparation according to the invention.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the ball has a diameter of 5 to 50 mm and the gap width has a width of 0.5 to 1 mm in the ball head application device (see Figure 1). According to the invention, the ball advantageously consists of plastic or glass.

According to the invention, the use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to the invention and a spherical head application device containing a preparation according to the invention for the care of the skin and for matting shiny areas of the skin on the face.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

6713WZDΘ202112

Claims

claims

1. Aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic and / or dermatological

5 Preparation with a viscosity of less than 3000 mPas, containing one or more powder raw materials from the group of sugar derivatives in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

2. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the powder raw materials are selected from the group of sugar derivatives 0 from a) starch and / or starch derivatives and b) cyclodextrins and / or cyclodextrin derivatives, the weight ratio of the total amount of starch and / or starch derivatives for the total amount of cyclodextrins and / or cyclodextrin derivatives is from 1: 5 to 5 20: 1.

3. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the preparation is a gel.

4. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to one of claims 1 to

3, characterized in that it contains: 0 a) water in a concentration of at least 80% by weight, b) one or more humectants in a concentration of 6 to 10% by weight, c) powder raw materials from the group of sugar derivatives in one Total amount from 3 to 7% by weight,

! 5 d) one or more alcohols in a total concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight, e) one or more preservatives in a total concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, f) one or more thickeners in a total concentration from 0.3 to 0.7% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation,

0 in addition to any other cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients,

Auxiliaries and additives.

5. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to one of claims 1 to

4, characterized in that polyacrylates are used as thickeners.

6713Wzbθ202112

6. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that are used as powder raw materials from the group of sugar derivatives and / or cyclodextrins.

7. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that glycerol is used as a humectant.

8. Ball head application device for applying cosmetic preparations containing a cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims.

9. ball head application device according to claim 8, characterized in that the ball has a diameter of 5 to 50 mm and the gap width has a width of 0.5 to 1 mm.

10. Use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to one of claims 1 to 7 or a spherical head application device according to one of claims 8 and 9 for matting shiny skin areas on the face.