Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
  • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
  • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8164—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a carboxyl radical, and containing at least one other carboxyl radical in the molecule, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. poly (methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic anhydride)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

• Cosmetic or dermatological composition containing an ascorbic acid derivative and a filter
• the present invention relates to an aqueous composition
• an aqueous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid, at least one UN filter. comprising a sulfonic function, and at least one polymer of maleic anhydride, and to its uses in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for depigmenting the skin, preventing and / or combating skin spots, wrinkles and / or fine lines the skin, to prevent and / or fight against the signs of skin aging.
• the invention also relates to the use of a polymer of maleic anhydride to obtain a homogeneous aqueous mixture of metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid and of filter UN. sulfonic acid.
• ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and in particular collagen, strengthens the defenses of the cutaneous tissue against external aggressions such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for the vitamin E deficiency in the skin, depigments the skin. and has an anti-free radical function.
• ascorbic acid is very sensitive to certain environmental parameters and in particular to oxidation phenomena.
• ascorbic acid derivatives mention may be made, for example, of the metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid and in particular magnesium ascorbylphosphate.
• sunscreens are water-soluble compounds having a sulfonic function, and it has been observed that it is very difficult to obtain a stable and homogeneous composition when the composition contains such a filter and a metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid. .
• the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that, while the usual chelating agents such as EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and its salts were ineffective in solving the problem of the invention, the use of a particular polymer in a composition containing metallic salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid and filters comprising a sulfonic function, made it possible to solve the problem of incompatibility of these compounds, and to obtain homogeneous compositions.
• the subject of the present invention is an aqueous composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid, at least one UN filter. water-soluble comprising at least one sulphonic function, and at least one polymer of maleic anhydride.
• topically acceptable medium means a medium compatible with skin tissues such as the skin, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails and mucous membranes.
• the composition of the invention is intended for topical application and it can in particular constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
• the polymer used makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous aqueous composition of metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid and of a UN filter. water-soluble comprising at least one sulphonic function.
• the subject of the invention is also the use of a polymer of maleic anhydride, in order to obtain a homogeneous aqueous composition containing at least one metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid and at least one UN filter. water-soluble comprising at least one sulphonic function.
• homogeneous is understood to mean a composition not comprising crystals and having a smooth appearance with the naked eye.
• maleic anhydride polymer means both homopolymers and copolymers of maleic anhydride, and, in general, any polymer obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of one or more several maleic anhydride units, the latter being optionally hydrolysed, partially or totally.
• hydrophilic polymers are used, that is to say polymers having a solubility in water, greater than or equal to 2 g / 1.
• Polymers which are more particularly suitable for implementing the invention are polymers obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of one or more maleic anhydride units and whose maleic anhydride units are in hydrolyzed form, and preferably in the form of alkaline salts, by example in the form of sodium, potassium or lithium salts, sodium salts being preferred.
• the polymers are in the form of copolymers comprising maleic anhydride monomers and co-monomers chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene, isooctylene, and alkylvinyl ethers, in particular methyl vinyl ether or stearyl vinyl ether, styrene, and their mixtures.
• the polymer used according to the invention has a molar fraction in maleic anhydride unit of between 0.1 and 1, and more preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.
• the molar mass by weight of the maleic anhydride polymers used according to the invention can advantageously range from 1000 to 500,000 and preferably from 1000 to 50,000.
• the polymer used is a copolymer of styrene and maleic anhydride, and in particular a copolymer of styrene and maleic anhydride in a 50/50 ratio.
• the styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer 50/50
• CTFA name Sodium tyrene / maleic acid copolymer
• SMA1000HNa ® 40% sodium salt in water
• SMA1000HNa ® sold under the reference SMA1000HNa ® by the company ATOFINA.
• the polymer is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount sufficient to obtain the desired effect, that is to say in an amount sufficient for the mixture of metallic salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid and filter with sulfonic function to be stable and homogeneous.
• the molar ratio between the quantity of maleic anhydride units and the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid varies from 0.005 to 10 and preferably from 0.01 to 1.
• the amount of polymer (in active material) ranges from 0.05 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the metallic salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid can be chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates, transition metal ascorbyl phosphates, and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made of ascorbyl phosphates of magnesium, sodium, potassium, calcium, zinc and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
• the amount of metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid can vary to a large extent depending on the purpose. This amount can range, for example, from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 0.05 to 10% by weight and better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.
• the filters used in the composition of the invention have at least one sulfonic function and are water-soluble. They can be chosen from sulfonated filters and / or water-soluble sulfonates. These filters can be partially neutralized with an organic base such as triethanolamine and ethylene diamine.
• the filters used can in particular be chosen from sulfone or sulfonate derivatives of benzylidene camphor, benzophenone or phenylbenzimidazole, and mixtures thereof.
• the sulfone or sulfonate filters used in the invention are derivatives of benzylidene camphor.
• benzylidene camphor derivatives which can be used in the invention have the following general formula (a):
• B represents -H or -SO3H
• D represents one or more alkyl or alkoxy radicals, identical or different when n> 2, linear or branched containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms approximately, a halo radical, a hydroxyl radical.
• A preferably in meta or para, represents:
• Y represents H or SO3H
• R 11 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or alkoxy radical, linear or branched containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms approximately or the radical -SO3H, Ru being -
• R ⁇ 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or alkoxy radical, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms approximately,
• X is an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group -NR-, R being a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms approximately,
• - n is equal to 0 or is a number ranging from 1 to 4 (0 ⁇ n ⁇ 4)
• - Ri represents one or more alkyl or alkoxy radicals, identical or different, linear or branched, preferably containing approximately from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
• - R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -SO3H
• R 3 , R 4 , R 5 and R 6 identical or different, represent a hydroxyl group, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, linear or branched, an alkenyl radical having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, linear or branched, an alkoxy radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, an alkenyloxy radical having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, a halo radical; moreover, a radical R 3 to R ⁇ only can be a radical -SO3H, at least one of the radicals R 3 to R denoting the radical -SO3H when R 2 is a hydrogen atom. One or more -SO3H functions can also be neutralized.
• R 4 denotes the radical -SO 3 H in the para position of the benzylidenecamphor and R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 each denote a hydrogen atom, that is to say the 4'-sulfo 3-benzylidenecamphor acid (CTFA name: Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid), manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL" by the company CHIMEX,
• R 3 , R 4 , R 5 and R 6 each denote a hydrogen atom and R 2 denotes a radical -SO 3 H, that is to say 3-benzylidene camphor-10 sulfonic acid.
• R4 denotes a methyl radical in the para position of the benzylidenecamphor
• R5 a radical -SO3H and R 2
• R 3 and R @ represent a hydrogen atom, that is to say 4'-methyl 3'- acid sulfo 3-benzylidenecamphor
• R 4 denotes a chlorine atom in the para position of the benzylidenecamphor
• R 5 a radical -SO3H and R 2 , R 3 and R ⁇ represent a hydrogen atom, that is to say 4'-chloro 3 acid '-sulfo 3-benzylidenecamphor.
• R 4 denotes a methyl radical in the para position of the benzylidenecamphor
• R 3 , R 5 and R ⁇ denote a hydrogen atom
• R 2 denotes a radical -SO3H, that is to say 4'-methyl 3 acid -benzylidene camphor 10-sulfonic.
• R 2 represents a radical -SO3H
• R 3 is a methyl radical
• R 4 a hydrogen atom
• R5 a tert-butyl radical
• R ⁇ a hydroxyl radical, that is to say (3-t-butyl acid 2-hydroxy 5-methyl) 3-benzylidene camphor-10-sulfonic.
• R 2 represents a radical -SO3H
• R 3 is a methoxy radical
• R 4 a hydrogen atom
• R 5 a tert-butyl radical
• R 6 a hydroxyl radical, that is to say the acid (3-t -butyl 2-hydroxy 5-methoxy) 3-benzylidene camphor-10-sulfonic.
• R 2 represents a radical -SO3H
• R 3 and R 5 each denote a tert-butyl radical
• R 4 a hydroxyl radical
• RQ a hydrogen atom, that is to say acid (3,5-diterbutyl 4 -hydroxy) 3-benzylidene camphor-10-sulfonic.
• R 4 represents a methoxy radical in para
• R 5 represents -SO3H
• R 2 , R 3 and R 6 represent H, that is to say 4'-methoxy 3'-sulfo-3-benzylidene camphor acid.
• R 2 denotes a radical -SO3H
• R 3 and R ⁇ represent H
• R ⁇ and R 5 forming a methylenedioxy radical, that is to say 3- (4,5-methylenedioxy) benzylidene campho-10-sulfonic acid .
• R2 represents a radical -SO3H
• R 4 a methoxy radical
• the radicals R 3 , R 5 and R 6 represent H, that is to say 3- (4-methoxy) benzylidene campho-10-sulfonic acid
• R 2 represents a radical -SO3H
• j and R 5 are both a methoxy radical and the radicals R 3 and R 6 represent H, that is to say 3- (4,5-dimethoxy) benzylidene acid camphor-10-sulfonic acid.
• R 2 represents a radical -SO3H
• R 4 is an n-butoxy radical and the radicals R 3 ,
• R 5 and Re represent a hydrogen atom, that is to say 3- (4-n.butoxy) benzylidene campho-10-sulfonic acid.
• R 2 represents a radical -SO3H
• i is an n-butoxy radical
• R 5 is a methoxy radical
• R 3 and R ⁇ both denote a hydrogen atom, that is to say 3- ( 4-n.butoxy 5-methoxy) benzylidene campho-10-sulfonic.
• Ru denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or alkoxy radical, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms approximately or a radical -SO3H,
• R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or alkoxy radical, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms approximately,
• R 13 denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -SO3H
• - X is an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group -NR-, R being a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched, preferably containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• R 12 and R 13 both denote a hydrogen atom, that is to say 2- [4- (camphomethylidene) phenyl] benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid.
• R 9 denotes a divalent radical: - (CH2) ⁇ r o ⁇ _CH 2 -CHOH-CH2-, m being an integer ranging from 1 to 10 (1 ⁇ m ⁇ 10),
• - R1 0 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkoxy radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately or a divalent radical - O - linked to the radical Rg when the latter is also divalent
• phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CTFA name: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid), sold under the trade name EUSOLEX 232 by the company MERCK.
• the quantity of UN filter (s). with a sulfonic function can vary to a large extent depending on the sun protection sought and the SPF desired for the composition.
• This amount (in active material) can range, for example, from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 0.02 to 5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. .
• the physiologically acceptable medium of the aqueous composition according to the invention comprises water. It may more particularly consist of water and optionally a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, l isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol; and their mixtures.
• a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, l isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, g
• composition according to the invention generally has a pH compatible with the skin, preferably ranging from 2 to 7, and better still from 3 to 6, this pH varying according to the acid active agents contained in the composition.
• the compositions according to the invention can be presented in all the galenical forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solutions, or aqueous gels, or, when an oily phase is added, in the form of oil emulsions.
• compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
• compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, 'a paste, a foam. They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.
• composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase
• it preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
• oils which can be used in the composition of the invention there may be mentioned, for example: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also, for example sunflower, corn, soybean oils, squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, macaw, sunflower, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides like those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the remainder of a fatty acid
• linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched chain hydrocarbon oils containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, l 'isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam® oil; - natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for example, eucalyptus, lavandin, lavender, vetiver, litsea cubeba, lemon, sandalwood, rosemary, chamomile, savory, walnut oils nutmeg, cinnamon, hyssop, caraway, orange, geraniol, cade and bergamot;
• alcohols and fatty acids having 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as alcohol or cetylic acid, stearyl alcohol, stearic acid, the mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetylstearyl alcohol) , octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
• silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising groups alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenyls; - their mixtures.
• PDMS polymethylsiloxanes
• cyclomethicones such as cyclohex
• Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean, in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
• the other fatty substances which may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candellila wax, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes from Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names "KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29” or "EPSX” by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil” by the Grant Industries.
• fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms such as stearic acid
• fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of consistency or texture, desired.
• the proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier.
• the emulsifiers are appropriately selected as follows. emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
• the emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion which can range, for example, from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C” by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, for example, may be mentioned as emulsifiers.
• One or more co-emulsifiers can also be added.
• the co-emulsifier can be chosen from the group comprising alkylated polyol esters.
• alkylated polyol esters mention may in particular be made of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters and for example polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Ariacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Ariacel 986 by the company ICI, and their mixtures.
• polyglycerol isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt
• sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Ariacel 987 by the company ICI
• sorbitan and glycerol isostearate such as the product sold under the name Ariacel 986 by the company ICI, and their mixtures.
• non-ionic surfactants may be mentioned, for example, as emulsifiers, and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated chain comprising for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 with 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say comprising oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated units, such as the glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol and Cs-C 24 fatty acid esters, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives;
• glyceryl ester of fatty acid there may be mentioned in particular glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and or glyceryl tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
• CFA name glyceryl stearate
• glyceryl ricinoleate glyceryl ricinoleate
• polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate), and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name). : PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof.
• surfactants such as for example the product containing Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name ARLACEL 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing Glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate ) and potassium stearate, sold under the name TEGIN by the company Goldschmidt (name CTFA: glyceryl stearate SE).
• fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose ester mention may in particular be made of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate); the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isos tearate); the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and
• oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose mention may, for example, be made of oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of methyl glucose diester and of stearic acid.
• CTFA name PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate
• Glucam E-20 distearate the product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company AMERCHOL
• CTFA name PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate
• Glucamate SSE-20 the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company AMERCHOL and that sold under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, and their mixtures.
• sucrose esters mention may, for example, be made of sucrose palmito-stearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose mono laurate.
• fatty alcohol ethers mention may be made, for example, of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol ethers containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers and cetyl, stearyl, tearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol). Mention may be made, for example, of ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated groups, such as those of CTFA name Ce teareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and their mixtures.
• alkylpolyglucosides such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by the company Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by the company BASF; laurylgiucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by the company Henkel; coco-glucoside such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by the company Henkel; ketostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by the company Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE
• the composition is in the form of O / W emulsions.
• the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field.
• adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetic field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and they are, depending on their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into a phase oily when it is present, or in vesicles or any other type of vector. These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property sought for the emulsion of the invention.
• one or more gelling agents in particular hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water, can be incorporated into the composition.
• hydrophilic gelling agents mention may, for example, be made of carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (name CTFA: carbomer) and Pemulen (name CTFA: Acrylates / C 10-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as the poly (2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (name GTFA : ammonium polyacr yldime.hyltaur amide); crosslinked anionic copoly
• the fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, in addition to pigments, silica powder; talc; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those in ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name of POLYTRAP; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular, microspheres marketed under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name TOSPEARL by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers can be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• active agents which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may, for example, be made of enzymes (for example lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase, cellulases); flavonoids; moisturizers such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatory drugs; procyannidolic oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; depigmentants such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as caroten
• steroids examples include dehydroepiandrosterone (or DHEA), as well as (1) its precursors and biological derivatives, in particular the salts and esters of DHEA, such as DHEA sulfate and salicylate, 7-hydroxy DHEA , 7-keto DHEA, esters of 7-hydroxy and 7-keto DHEA, in particular 3-beta-acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA, and (2) its precursors and chemical derivatives, in particular sapogenins such as diosgenin or hecogenin, and / or their derivatives such as hecogenin acetate, and / or natural extracts containing it and in particular extracts of Dioscorea, such as wild yam (Wild Yam).
• DHEA dehydroepiandrosterone
• DHEA its precursors and biological derivatives
• DHEA such as DHEA sulfate and salicylate
• 7-hydroxy DHEA 7-keto DHEA
• the organic UV filters other than those with a sulfonic function described above can be present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and better 0.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• organic filters active in UV-A and / or UV-B, which can be added to the composition of the invention
• salicylic derivatives such as ethyl hexyl salicylate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN OS by Haarmann and Reimer
• dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by Hoffmann La Roche
• cinnamic derivatives such as ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by Hoffmann La Roche
• derivatives of ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylate such as octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl ⁇ -cyano- ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate) sold under the trade name UVINUL N539 by the company BASF
• the composition according to the invention can constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition and it can be used in all the usual applications of vitamin C and its derivatives. It can be used in particular to depigment and / or whiten the skin, prevent and / or fight against skin spots, wrinkles and / or fine lines of the skin, to prevent and / or fight against the signs of skin aging and / or against the harmful effects of UV radiation. It can also make it possible to tone, regenerate and / or smooth the fine lines of the skin, and / or to strengthen the skin tissues against environmental aggressions. It can also be used to treat age spots that appear on the skin with age.
• the subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above for depigmenting and / or bleaching the skin, preventing and / or combating skin spots, wrinkles and / or fine lines on the skin. skin, to prevent and / or fight against the signs of skin aging and / or against the harmful effects of UN radiation.
• the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process intended for depigmenting and / or bleaching the skin, preventing and / or combating skin spots, wrinkles and / or fine lines on the skin, preventing and / or combating signs of skin aging and / or against the harmful effects of UV radiation, comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined above. It also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for the manufacture of an ointment intended for treating aging spots.
• compositions according to the invention are given by way of illustration and without limitation.
• the names are given in CTFA names or in chemical names.
• the quantities are given in% by weight, unless otherwise stated.
• the pH of the solution is 2.0. A clear solution is obtained.
• the pH of the solution is 2.0.
• a precipitate forms in the solution.
• EDTA known as chelating does not solve the problem of incompatibility between magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and the sulfonic filter.
• the pH of the solution is 1.5. A precipitate forms in the solution.
• This example shows the incompatibility between the magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and the sulfonic filter.
• the procedure is as follows: The magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is placed in water, or the polymer or EDTA is added, then the UN filter.
• Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth-30 (Emulgator E-2209 from Goldschmidt) 1%
• Procedure successively mixing phases A to F, introducing one after the other.
• composition obtained is not homogeneous and contains many crystals.
• EDTA known as chelating does not solve the problem of incompatibility between magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and the sulfonic filter.
• Example 5 according to the invention. O / W emulsion
• Phase B 0.2% xanthan gum
• the composition obtained is fluid, smooth and homogeneous to the naked eye. It can be used as a photoprotective composition for treating and combating the signs of skin aging (anti-aging).
• Example 6 according to the invention (O / W emulsion)
• Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth-30 (Emulgator E-2209 from Goldschmidt) 1%
• the composition obtained is fluid, smooth and homogeneous to the naked eye. It can be used as a depigmenting and photoprotective composition, making it possible to combat the appearance of spots.

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• 2002
  • 2002-09-30 FR FR0212079A patent/FR2845002B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2003
  • 2003-09-02 CN CN 03823258 patent/CN1684661A/zh active Pending
  • 2003-09-02 AU AU2003278242A patent/AU2003278242A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2003-09-02 EP EP03769553A patent/EP1558205A2/fr not_active Withdrawn
  • 2003-09-02 JP JP2004539107A patent/JP2006504699A/ja not_active Withdrawn
  • 2003-09-02 WO PCT/FR2003/002626 patent/WO2004028483A2/fr not_active Application Discontinuation

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