WO2004026270A1 - Produit de soin capillaire a effet revitalisant - Google Patents

Produit de soin capillaire a effet revitalisant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004026270A1
WO2004026270A1 PCT/EP2003/009940 EP0309940W WO2004026270A1 WO 2004026270 A1 WO2004026270 A1 WO 2004026270A1 EP 0309940 W EP0309940 W EP 0309940W WO 2004026270 A1 WO2004026270 A1 WO 2004026270A1
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Prior art keywords
hair
acrylate
polymer
hair treatment
treatment composition
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PCT/EP2003/009940
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Konstanze Mayer
Peter Schmiedel
Michael Heyer
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Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
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Priority to AU2003267059A priority Critical patent/AU2003267059A1/en
Publication of WO2004026270A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004026270A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of nonionic, crosslinked (meth) acrylate-containing polymers with an average particle diameter in the range from 50 to 500 nm to improve the physical properties of keratinic fibers, and to hair treatment compositions which contain these polymers.
  • the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers.
  • special active ingredients for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers.
  • this treatment improves the combability, hold and fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.
  • Combination preparations have also been developed in order to reduce the complexity of the conventional multi-stage processes, in particular when used directly by the consumer.
  • these preparations also contain active ingredients that were previously reserved for hair after-treatment agents. The consumer thus saves one application step; At the same time, the packaging effort is reduced because one product is used less.
  • conditioning and conditioning agents are known to the person skilled in the art. However, the active ingredients available for separate post-treatment agents as well as for combination products cannot yet fulfill all of your wishes.
  • German published patent application DE 19727508 describes the use of hydrogel formers in aqueous compositions with liposomal structures for the treatment of keratin fibers. According to the teaching of this document, agents with a good care effect can be produced which, despite the liposomal structure, have good storage stability.
  • the international patent application WO 92/07011 describes highly swellable, moderately cross-linked polyvinylpyrrolidone polymers with certain gel volumes and certain viscosities.
  • the polymers are prepared by precipitation polymerization in organic solvents and are used to thicken aqueous and non-aqueous solutions.
  • European patent application EP-A2 0288012 describes hair cosmetic compositions which contain fine particles of a crosslinked polymer.
  • the polymer is derived from a monofunctional oil-soluble monomer, the polymerization product of which has a glass transition temperature of up to 300 ° K.
  • the polymer is still insoluble in water and ethanol and does not form a film at normal temperature.
  • nonionic, crosslinked (meth) acrylate-containing polymers with an average particle diameter in the range from 50 to 500 nm can meet these requirements in an outstanding manner and can bring about a significant improvement in the physical properties of keratinic fibers.
  • mechanical properties such as wet and dry combability and the tendency of keratinic fibers to electrostatically charge are particularly worth mentioning.
  • a first object of the invention is therefore the use of a nonionic, cross-linked (meth) acrylate-containing polymer with an average particle diameter in the range from 50 to 500 nm to improve the physical properties of keratin fibers, in particular to improve their mechanical properties such as wet and dry combability and their tendency to electrostatic charging.
  • keratin fibers are to be understood as meaning furs, wool, feathers, hair and in particular human hair.
  • the invention further relates to a hair treatment composition which, in addition to conventional cosmetic constituents, furthermore contains a dispersion of a nonionic, crosslinked (meth) acrylate-containing polymer with an average particle diameter in the range from 50 to 500 nm.
  • a crosslinked (meth) acrylate-containing polymer is to be understood as a crosslinked homopolymer or copolymer which is based on two or more monomers, including the crosslinker. At least one of these monomers must be polyfunctional, to create a network. Including the crosslinker, according to the invention at least one of the monomers must furthermore be a derivative of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, derivative being understood to mean in particular an ester or an amide.
  • Monomers for the polymers used according to the invention are monounsaturated polymerizable compounds, preferably the esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and vinylpyrrolidone.
  • esters and amides with alcohols or amines having 1 to 6 carbon atoms are preferred, it being possible for the alcohols or amines to be additionally substituted with 1 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • particularly suitable monomers are methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, sec-butyl acrylate, n-hexyl acrylate, n-octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, n-dodecyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyl acrylate Isopropylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylic acid derivatives.
  • Polymers which are particularly preferred for the purposes of the invention are poly-no isopropylacrylamide and N-vinylpyrrolidone / (meth) acrylic ester copolymers.
  • the weight ratio of the different monomers to one another is not subject to any particular restrictions.
  • the present invention required cross-linking of the polymer can be effected by means of a polyfunctional monomer such as N, N-methylenebisacrylamide or 1-vinyl-3- (E) -ethylidene pyrrolidone.
  • a polyfunctional monomer such as N, N-methylenebisacrylamide or 1-vinyl-3- (E) -ethylidene pyrrolidone.
  • Crosslinking with N, N ' - methylenebisacrylamide is preferred for the purposes of the invention.
  • the polymer is about 0.5 to about 20%, but preferably about 2 to about 10% and most preferably about 4 to about 6% cross-linked.
  • a degree of crosslinking of x% is understood to mean that for 100 parts by weight of the total monofunctional monomers on which the polymer is based, x Parts by weight of the crosslinker, ie the polyfunctional monomer or the mixture of polyfunctional monomers.
  • Nonionic crosslinked (meth) acrylate-containing polymers suitable according to the invention with an average particle diameter in the range from 50 to 500 nm are preferably obtainable by polymerizing the monomers on which the polymer is based with one another in an emulsion polymerization.
  • the crosslinking is expediently effected in that a suitable amount of a polyfunctional monomer or crosslinking agent is added to the monomers or monomer mixture to be polymerized.
  • the size of the polymer particles depends on the production process used and can be influenced, for example, by the use of emulsifiers and by the choice of the concentration of the reactants during the polymerization. Through simple routine experiments, the person skilled in the art can determine the suitable production conditions for a respectively selected combination of monomers in order to obtain polymer particles of the size suitable according to the invention.
  • Anionic surfactants such as sodium dodecyl sulfate or alkylaryl polyglycol ether sulfate sodium salt are suitable as emulsifiers for the preparation of the polymers used according to the invention by emulsion polymerization.
  • the polymers used according to the invention are preferably prepared by emulsion polymerization in water as the dispersant.
  • Any initiator suitable for such an emulsion polymerization can be used as the polymerization initiator, but water-soluble initiators such as potassium peroxodisulfate are preferably used.
  • the reaction mixture obtained in the emulsion polymerization can be further purified in a manner known per se.
  • dialysis can remove residual monomers and centrifugation, Filtration, freeze drying or spray drying can reduce the water content to a desired level or the polymers can be obtained in an anhydrous, unswollen state.
  • the crosslinked (meth) acrylate-containing polymers used according to the invention are nonionic, i. H. they are not anionic, cationic or zwitterionic. This means in particular that they are free of acidic groups, e.g. Carboxylate groups and that they are free of quaternary or basic groups such as e.g. Mono-, di- or trialkylamino groups which would give the cross-linked polymer per se or in acidic solution a cationic character.
  • the average particle size of the polymers suitable according to the invention is between 50 and 500 nm, the value being based on the average particle diameter in the longitudinal direction, i.e. in the direction of the greatest expansion of the particles.
  • the particle size was determined in the context of the invention by laser diffraction using the Mastersizer-RT device from Malvern.
  • the polymers suitable according to the invention preferably have a glass transition temperature of more than 30 ° C. and particularly preferably of more than 50 ° C.
  • a glass transition temperature of more than 30 ° C. and particularly preferably of more than 50 ° C.
  • the person skilled in the art can make the necessary preselection based on the known laws that exist between the glass transition temperatures of the respective homopolymers and the corresponding copolymers.
  • the type of hair treatment agent is not subject to any fundamental restrictions. It can be, for example, cleaning agents such as shampoos, care agents such as conditioning agents, hair treatments and conditioners, setting agents such as hair fixers, hair sprays and blow dryers, permanent shaping agents such as permanent wave and fixing agents, color-changing agents such as bleaching agents, oxidation dyes and tinting agents based on direct dyes, Trade hair lotions and hair tip fluids. Accordingly, the preparations can be formulated as solutions, emulsions, gels, creams, aerosols or lotions. Furthermore, it can be in the Hair treatment agents according to the invention are both rinse-off and products remaining on the hair (leave-on). The use of the active compounds according to the invention in leave-on products can be a preferred embodiment.
  • Hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention are hair care agents such as hair rinses, hair treatments, hair pretreatment agents, hair lotions and hairdressing creams and hairdressing pomades.
  • Hair treatment agents that are particularly preferred in the sense of the invention are hair rinses and hair treatments.
  • Hair rinses are generally formulated in such a way that the active ingredients are rinsed out with water or an at least predominantly water-containing agent after the desired exposure time.
  • the contact time with the hair is usually short.
  • Hair treatments contain the active ingredient combination in a higher concentration than hair rinses and are intended for the treatment of badly damaged hair.
  • the exposure time can be short, for example in the order of the exposure time of hair rinses, but it can also be up to 20 minutes depending on the degree of damage to the hair.
  • the hair treatments according to the invention are generally also rinsed out with water or an at least predominantly water-containing agent after the exposure time has expired, but can also be left on the hair.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain the nonionic, crosslinked (meth) acrylate-containing polymer with an average particle diameter in the range from 50 to 500 nm in amounts of preferably about 0.01 to about 10, in particular about 0.05 to about 5, and particularly preferably about 0 , 1 to about 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the agent.
  • the hair treatment composition according to the invention additionally contains
  • Emulsifiers contained in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • Suitable natural emulsifiers are, for example, phospholipids, in particular lecithin, saponins, bile acids and their derivatives, in particular cholic acid, deoxycholic acid, lithocholic acid and taurocholic acid, tannic acid and abietic acid.
  • Suitable synthetic emulsifiers are, in particular, nonionic synthetic emulsifiers such as, for example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and the substances described in the text below as nonionic surfactants.
  • Fats contained in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are, for example, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols or fatty alcohol mixtures based on natural raw materials with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, such as, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucic, ricinolyl, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols and fatty alcohol cuts which are naturally occurring by reducing triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil,
  • Paraffin oils and vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil, henna oil from Lawsonia inermis and oil from Cassia auriculata can also be used as fatty substances.
  • Fatty substances in the sense of the invention are furthermore silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs. Examples of such silicones are the products sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 1401.
  • waxes are esters of long-chain fatty acids with long-chain fatty alcohols. According to the invention, both natural waxes, chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes can be used. Examples of such waxes are
  • Vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax and montan wax,
  • Animal waxes such as beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin and pretzel fat,
  • Petrochemical waxes such as petrolatum, paraffin waxes and micro waxes
  • Hard waxes such as Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes, as well
  • Waxes preferred according to the invention are vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax and Japanese wax and beeswax.
  • the hair treatment composition according to the invention contains an alkoxylated fatty alcohol as component a) (emulsifier) and / or a fatty alcohol as component b) (fatty substance and / or wax).
  • the hair treatment composition according to the invention additionally contains a conditioning active ingredient, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of cationic Surfactants, cationic polymers, alkylamidoamines and synthetic oils is formed.
  • a conditioning active ingredient which is preferably selected from the group consisting of cationic Surfactants, cationic polymers, alkylamidoamines and synthetic oils is formed.
  • Cationic polymers can be preferred as conditioning agents. These are usually polymers that have a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in
  • Preferred cationic polymers are, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid are examples of such cationic polymers.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylate and methacrylate such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate.
  • vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755.
  • Vinylpyrrolidone methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers such as those sold under the name Luviquat ®, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and under the designations Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and
  • Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
  • Cationic polymers of the first four groups are particularly preferred.
  • Preferred cationic surfactants are those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, for example ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauiyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, as well as the quaternium ammonium compounds known under the INCI names 83 and 83.
  • these quaternary ammonium compounds can also be so-called esterquats such as N obtainable under the name Armocare® ® VGH-70 commercially, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethyl be used instead.
  • alkylamidoamines such as stearamidopropyldimethylamine, which is commercially available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18.
  • conditioning agents are silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs.
  • silicones examples include the Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 1401 products sold and the commercial products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silyl amodimethicone), Dow Corning ® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also called amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® - Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).
  • Paraffin oils and vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil can also be used as conditioning agents.
  • hair-conditioning compounds are phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins.
  • the conditioning agent can contain in amounts of about 0.05 to about 15, preferably about 0.5 to about 10, and particularly preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total agent his.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain at least one physiologically compatible inorganic or organic acid.
  • Suitable inorganic acids are, for example, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid.
  • Organic acids those are preferred which have 1 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • Organic acids include those that have positive effects on the human organism in the context of normal food intake.
  • Citric acid and tartaric acid can be preferred according to the invention.
  • Polybasic acids, such as tartaric acid can also be used in the form of their acid salts.
  • the agents used according to the invention can contain the acids in amounts of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, in particular from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, are very particularly preferred.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain at least one protein hydrolyzate or a derivative thereof. Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolyzates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois ® (Interorgana), Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Kerasol ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin e.g. B. soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates.
  • Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin ® (Diamalt), Lexein ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda).
  • amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids such as arginm ' , lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, which have been obtained in some other way, may also be used in their place.
  • derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon ® (Cognis), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or Crotein ® (Croda).
  • Cationized protein hydrolyzates can also be used according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, Soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates.
  • the protein hydrolysates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
  • Preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are those whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 Daltons.
  • Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
  • ⁇ cationic protein of the invention and derivatives are under the INCI - names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 , Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydr ⁇ xypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl /
  • the plant-based cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are very particularly preferred.
  • the protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives can be contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, are very particularly preferred.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain at least one surfactant.
  • Both anionic and nonionic, zwitterionic and ampholytic surfactants can be used, the use of at least one anionic surfactant on the one hand and at least one nonionic surfactant on the other hand being preferred.
  • Surfactants which can be used according to the invention are, for example: anionic surfactants such as in particular soaps from fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, non-ionic surfactants such as, in particular, addition products of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 up to 22 carbon atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon
  • the surfactants can be present in the agents according to the invention in a total amount of 0 to 25% by weight, based on the agent as a whole; Agents formulated as so-called concentrates can also have higher surfactant contents.
  • the compositions according to the invention preferably contain amounts of a total of 0 to 5% by weight of surfactant, based on the total composition.
  • Preparations according to the invention which are hair coloring or tinting agents can contain at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type, if appropriate in combination with oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type, and / or a direct dye and / or a dye which occurs naturally.
  • the pH of the agents according to the invention can be between 2-11, the person skilled in the art knowing the preferred pH ranges for the different agents.
  • the pH of the agents according to the invention, provided they are hair care agents, is preferably between 2 and 7, with values from 3 to 5 being particularly preferred.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain all the additives customary for the respective intended use.
  • these can be cosmetic additives which have a cleaning, nourishing or other effect on the external appearance of the hair.
  • Such additives which do not have a direct effect on the hair, but otherwise have a positive effect on the scalp or, for example, the hair follicles, can also be present in the agent according to the invention.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be:
  • Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic polymers such as, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, polydimethylsiloxanes, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic acid and anhydride polyesters, non-crosslinked polymers, non-copolymerized copolymers, copolymers Acrylic amidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / - methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino-
  • dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for example di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl -n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert.-butyl-n-octyl ether, is
  • Thickeners such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and layered silicates such as. B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • Solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, dyes for coloring the agent,
  • Anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, other substances for adjusting the pH, vitamins and vitamin precursors such as panthenol, its derivatives and biotin, plant and honey extracts, such as in particular extracts from oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, Burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, meadow foam, quendel, yarrow, pickled heels, meristem, ginseng and ginger ginger ginger
  • active ingredients such as ceramides, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids, and bisabolol, light stabilizers,
  • Consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fatty acid alkanolamides, Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
  • Humectants such as sorbitol, lactic acid salts, glycerol or polysaccharide opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acid Reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thio malic acid and ⁇ -mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate, blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , N 2 and air and antioxidants.
  • pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate
  • complexing agents
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for conditioning hair, in which an inventive hair treatment composition, as described in the preceding text, is applied to the hair in an effective amount.
  • the agent can then be rinsed out after a contact time. In a preferred embodiment of the method, however, it is left on the hair until the next hair wash.
  • nonionic, crosslinked (meth) acrylate-containing polymers with an average particle diameter in the range from 50 to 500 nm in the hair treatment compositions described in the preceding text has advantages for both the manufacturer and the user of such compositions connected is.
  • the advantages in use are, in particular, improved wet and dry combability of the hair and a reduced electrostatic charge, so that the undesired "flying" of the hair is avoided. Furthermore, the hair treated with the agents according to the invention shows increased softness. These effects desired for the user are achieved without the problems known from prior art agents of impairing hair gloss and volume being observed. The use of the copolymers also does not result in an undesirable strain on the hair or a sticky handle.
  • Example 1 Preparation of a polymer starting from N-isopropylacrylamide (“P-N-IPAAm”)
  • the hydrogel particles thus synthesized had a diameter of approx. 200 to 300 nm in the swollen state at room temperature, ie. H. in the state of dispersion.
  • the particle size was determined by laser diffraction using the Malvern Mastersizer-RT.
  • the N-isopropylacrylamide was no longer detectable in the dispersion by means of HPLC ( ⁇ 1ppm).
  • the polymer dispersion thus prepared was then freeze-dried, the polymer being obtained in a non-swollen form as a white powder in a yield of 95%. It had a glass transition temperature of 152 ° C (measurement using modulated dynamic differential calorimetry, MDSC).
  • MDSC modulated dynamic differential calorimetry
  • the polymer can e.g. redisperse with water to a desired concentration.
  • the freeze-dried polymer was redispersed with water to a final concentration of 0.04% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion, corresponding to a concentration of 0.4 g / l of dispersion.
  • the polymer dispersion obtained in the aforementioned synthesis reaction can be separated from the main amount of the salts and water used in the preparation by centrifugation. In this case the polymer is obtained in a swollen state.
  • Example 2 Preparation of a polymer based on ethyl methacrylate and N-vinylpyrrolidone ("EMA-VP")
  • a dispersion was obtained, the viscosity of which was 5 MPas (20 ° C., 20 rpm).
  • the aqueous dispersion was then dialyzed to reduce the level of residual monomers, which is desirable for use in cosmetics.
  • the residual content of N-vinylpyrrolidone was 9 ppm and that of ethyl methacrylate was 16 ppm.
  • the hydrogel particles synthesized in this way had an average particle diameter of approximately 100 to 300 nm at room temperature. They showed no glass temperature below 90 ° C (measurement by MDSC).
  • crosslinked polymers 3.1 to 3.23 were prepared in a manner analogous to that in Example 2 (cf. Table 1), 5 additional parts by weight of N, N-methylenebisacrylamide being used for the polymerization reaction per 100 parts by weight of the monomers listed in Table 1.
  • Table 1
  • Example 4 Investigation of the effectiveness of the polymers according to the invention on hair from an aqueous dispersion
  • the work for combing wet strands of hair was measured. Before the zero measurement, the hair was medium-blonded and then combed in the wet state, the combing forces required thereby being recorded. After the zero measurement, the strands of hair were treated once with the respective formulation (10 minutes, 0.5 g formulation per g hair) and then rinsed for 1 minute with a total of 1 liter of water at 38 ° C. Each measurement was made with 20 strands of hair. It In each case 10 comb values of a strand of hair were determined and compared before application and after application of the formulations in the wet state.
  • the measurements were carried out in a constant climate (25% relative humidity, 30 ° C); the hair strands were conditioned for 24 hours.
  • the work for combing dry strands of hair was measured.
  • the hair was medium-blonded before the zero measurement and then combed in the dry and conditioned state, the combing forces required being recorded.
  • the strands of hair were treated once with the respective formulation (10 minutes, 0.5 g of formulation per g of hair) and then rinsed for 1 minute with a total of 1 liter of water at 38 ° C. and then dried.
  • Each measurement was made with 20 strands of hair. 10 comb values of a strand of hair were determined and compared before and after the application of the formulations in the dry and conditioned state.
  • the electrostatic charge was examined in parallel with the dry combing work with the approval of the electrostatic charge.
  • the actual measurement was carried out using the charge tapping on a double Faraday cage after performing the 10 combs.
  • the sensory assessment was determined using an expert panel.
  • the strands of hair used were initially 30 min. pre-cleaned with a 12% Texapon NSO solution (pH 6.5) and 5 min. rinsed with water.
  • the strands were then treated with the respective formulations (0.5 g formulation per g hair, 5 min exposure time, 1 min rinsing time) and at 20% rel. Humidity in the climate box dried overnight.
  • the tests were carried out in a climate room at 22 ° C and approx. 45% relative humidity with standard daylight lighting.
  • Each subject received new strands of hair.
  • the recipe was assigned to the individual attributes and evaluated against the corresponding reference. The parameters are assessed on the following scale:
  • the tested attribute lies in the property tested in each case
  • the application on strands of hair was standardized using a dipping process. Standard European hair was used, which had been pre-cleaned, rinsed and dried. The hair was then immersed in the aqueous polymer dispersions prepared according to Examples 1 and 2 at a concentration of 0.4 g / l. Depending on the application as rinse-off or leave-on products, the strands of hair were then rinsed off if necessary. The samples were then at 25% rel. Humidity and 30 ° C in the air.
  • the work for combing wet strands of hair is carried out on 20 strands of hair pretreated in accordance with b).
  • the values of 10 combs on hair strands were determined and compared before application of the polymers and after application of the polymers in the wet state.
  • the polymers from Example 1 or Example 2 were in the form of an aqueous dispersion with a concentration of Polymers of 0.4 g / l are used.
  • the test was carried out as a leave-on treatment, ie there was no rinsing before the measurements.
  • the softness of the hair was sensed using an expert panel. For this, strands of hair were pretreated in the form of a leave-on treatment. The determination was made against untreated hair with 11 expert panelists on a scale from -1 (significantly rougher) to +1 (significantly softer). The tests were carried out in a constant room climate of 23 ° C and 45% rel. Moisture carried out.
  • the hair gloss was determined by means of light reflection.
  • 5 strands of hair were pretreated according to b) in the form of a leave-on treatment and additionally provided with a gloss-reducing film.
  • the gloss intensity of the untreated strands of hair and then the strands of hair treated with the polymers according to the invention were measured and the difference was determined.
  • the measurements were carried out at 25 ° C and 40% rel. Moisture carried out.
  • the volume was determined analytically by casting shadows on the strands of hair.
  • the strands of hair were pretreated in the form of a leave-on treatment.
  • the area of 10 of the untreated and then of the treated strands of hair was determined and compared in each case.
  • Example 5 Investigation of the effectiveness of the polymers according to the invention on hair from a rinsing formulation
  • Formulation 5.0 (comparison): 4.00% StenoM618 1) 0.60% Eumulgin B2 2) 3.00% Dehyquart A-CA 3) 0.20% Euxyl KIOO nB ) Citric acid nB. NaCI ad 100 water pH: 4.0 - 4.5
  • the polymers according to the invention lead to a significant reduction in the wet combing work, the polymer from example 1 exhibiting a better action than the polymer from example 2.
  • the polymer from Example 2 leads to a significant reduction in the combing forces compared to the pure rinsing formulation, i.e. to a conditioning effect.
  • the polymers according to the invention bring about a significant reduction in the electrostatic charge on the hair, the Polymer from Example 1 shows a significantly stronger effect than the polymer from Example 2.
  • the formulation 5.1a shows a significantly increased softness compared to the comparison formulation 5.0.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation de polymères non ioniques à réticulation transversale, contenant du (méth)acrylate, présentant un diamètre moyen de particules compris entre 50 et 500 nm, pour améliorer les propriétés physiques de fibres kératiniques. L'invention concerne également des produits de soins capillaires contenant lesdits polymères.
PCT/EP2003/009940 2002-09-17 2003-09-08 Produit de soin capillaire a effet revitalisant WO2004026270A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

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AU2003267059A AU2003267059A1 (en) 2002-09-17 2003-09-08 Hair treatment agents with conditioning properties

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DE2002143038 DE10243038A1 (de) 2002-09-17 2002-09-17 Haarbehandlungsmittel mit konditionierenden Eigenschaften
DE10243038.1 2002-09-17

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102012201861A1 (de) 2012-02-08 2013-08-08 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Konditionierendes Haarreinigungsmittel

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EP2756052B2 (fr) 2011-09-13 2019-11-20 Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Microgels polymérisés en émulsion répondant aux tensioactifs
JP6165735B2 (ja) 2011-09-13 2017-07-19 ルブリゾル アドバンスド マテリアルズ， インコーポレイテッド 界面活性剤応答性分散重合ミクロゲル
JP2014534275A (ja) 2011-09-13 2014-12-18 ルブリゾル アドバンスド マテリアルズ， インコーポレイテッド 界面活性剤応答性ミクロゲル

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WO1992007011A1 (fr) * 1990-10-18 1992-04-30 Isp Investments Inc. Polyvinylpyrrolidone reticulee pouvant gonfler et compositions a usage cosmetique preparees a partir de celle-ci
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DE19727508A1 (de) * 1996-07-01 1998-01-08 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Verwendung von Hydrogelbildnern und Mittel zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern
US5716634A (en) * 1995-09-13 1998-02-10 Isp Investments Inc. Clear, homogenized, flowable hydrogel of crosslinked N-vinyl lactam polymer
US6126929A (en) * 1997-01-20 2000-10-03 L'oreal S.A. Cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of polymer particles capable of being film-formed and particles not capable of being film-formed
US20010016189A1 (en) * 1999-07-07 2001-08-23 Isp Investments Inc. Stable, aqueous cationic hydrogel
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EP0288012A2 (fr) * 1987-04-21 1988-10-26 Kao Corporation Composition cosmétique pour les cheveux
WO1992007011A1 (fr) * 1990-10-18 1992-04-30 Isp Investments Inc. Polyvinylpyrrolidone reticulee pouvant gonfler et compositions a usage cosmetique preparees a partir de celle-ci
DE4223066A1 (de) * 1992-07-14 1994-01-20 Basf Ag Haarbehandlungsmittel, die als Filmbildner Copolymerisate enthalten
US5716634A (en) * 1995-09-13 1998-02-10 Isp Investments Inc. Clear, homogenized, flowable hydrogel of crosslinked N-vinyl lactam polymer
DE19727508A1 (de) * 1996-07-01 1998-01-08 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Verwendung von Hydrogelbildnern und Mittel zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern
US6126929A (en) * 1997-01-20 2000-10-03 L'oreal S.A. Cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of polymer particles capable of being film-formed and particles not capable of being film-formed
US20010016189A1 (en) * 1999-07-07 2001-08-23 Isp Investments Inc. Stable, aqueous cationic hydrogel
DE10019314C1 (de) * 2000-04-19 2001-09-20 Wella Ag Gelförmiges Haarbehandlungsmittel
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102012201861A1 (de) 2012-02-08 2013-08-08 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Konditionierendes Haarreinigungsmittel
WO2013117464A2 (fr) 2012-02-08 2013-08-15 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agent de lavage capillaire conditionnant
EP2812076B1 (fr) 2012-02-08 2016-08-31 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Agent de lavage capillaire conditionnant
US10265259B2 (en) 2012-02-08 2019-04-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Conditioning hair-cleaning agent

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