WO2003028694A2

WO2003028694A2 - Use of alkyl glucosides in order to obtain or increase the selectivity of cleaning preparations

Info

Publication number: WO2003028694A2
Application number: PCT/EP2002/009419
Authority: WO
Inventors: Manfred Strassner; Stephan Ruppert; Andreas Schepky; Jens-Peter Vietzke; Harald Albrecht; Urte Koop; Ralf Schimpf; Joachim Ennen; Claudius Rapp
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2001-09-25
Filing date: 2002-08-23
Publication date: 2003-04-10
Also published as: WO2003028694A3; EP1494643A2; DE10154628A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of one or several surface−active substances chosen from the group of alkyl glucosides characterized by the structural formula (1) wherein r is a branched or unbranched alkyl radical with 4 − 24 carbon atoms and <o><i>DP</i></o> represents an average degree of glucosylation of up to 2, in order to obtain or to increase the selectivity of cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft

description

Use of alkyl glucosides to achieve or increase the selectivity of cleaning preparations

The present invention relates to the use of alkyl glucosides to achieve or increase the selectivity of cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations.

When the skin is cleaned with the help of a simple water bath - without the addition of surfactants - the skin's horny layer swells. The degree of this swelling depends on a. on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer. Skin oils (surface and barrier lipids) are also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent by the skin's own surface-active substances.

While the joint removal of surface dirt and surface lipids, which originate primarily from the sebaceous glands and are largely responsible for the appearance of oily skin, is cosmetically desirable, washing out barrier lipids can disrupt the function of the skin barrier, which is associated with a loss of moisture in the skin , This is accompanied by a temporary increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and a temporary decrease in skin moisture. Especially in the case of products for cleaning the sensitive facial skin and here in particular in the case of products for oily skin, the most selective removal of surface dirt, make-up and skin sebum is particularly important for the consumer. On the other hand, the facial skin in particular needs particularly gentle cleaning. In the case of healthy skin, the disturbances caused by washing are generally limited in time, since the protective mechanisms of the skin can easily compensate for such slight disturbances in the upper layers of the skin. But already in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status - e.g. B. by environmental wear and tear or irritation, light damage, aging skin, etc. - the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Under certain circumstances, he may no longer be able to fulfill his task on his own and must be regenerated by external measures. There has been no shortage of attempts to find suitable cleaning preparations for better or faster regeneration of the skin, which help the skin to maintain its natural balance.

Known agents for cleaning and simultaneous care of the skin are e.g. B. oil-containing cleaning preparations or cleaning preparations with different regreasing agents or skin humidifiers, which are intended to re-grease or moisturize the skin during cleaning. For this purpose, the prior art knows, for example, various types of oil bath preparations, shower oils, cleaning creams and the like.

The main disadvantage of such preparations is that some of the barrier lipids are first removed and the skin is then regreased with the help of the added oil components. In addition, cleaning preparations of this type are washed off after use, so that only small amounts of the additives used remain on the skin.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic or dermatological preparations which significantly improve the condition of the skin, in particular reduce the roughness of the skin and which are distinguished by a selectivity of the cleaning performance.

It was surprising and in no way foreseeable by the person skilled in the art that the use of one or more surface-active substances, selected from the group of the alkyl glucosides, which is characterized by the structural formula

distinguish, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 4 to 24

Represents carbon atoms and where D means an average degree of glucosylation of up to 2, to achieve or increase the selectivity of cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations would eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art.

Selective cleaning preparations in the sense of the present invention wash out significantly more surface or sebum lipids than barrier lipids. So if one determines the ratio of washed-out surface or sebum lipids to washed-out barrier lipids, this is significantly greater than 1 for preparations containing alkyl glucosides used according to the invention. The selectivity of a cleaning preparation can be increased according to the invention, for. B. determine in comparison to water. According to the present invention, products can be formulated which remove dirt and excess sebum with high selectivity and thereby protect the skin's own lipids, which are essential for preventing the skin from drying out.

The value DP represents the degree of glucosylation of the alkyl glucosides used according to the invention and is defined as

DP Px 1 + 2 + 3 + ∑ li 100 100 100 1 10010

Here, p _{1 (} p ₂ , p ₃ ... or, pι represent the proportion of the single, double, triple ... i-fold glucosylated products in percentages by weight. According to the invention, they are advantageous Products with degrees of glucosylation of 1-2, particularly advantageously from 1.1 to 1.5, very particularly advantageously selected from approximately 1.3.

The value DP takes into account the fact that alkyl glucosides are usually mixtures of mono- and oligoglucosides due to their production. A relatively high content of monoglucosides, typically of the order of 40 to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the mixture, is advantageous according to the invention.

R is advantageously selected from the group of unbranched alkyl radicals, the myristyl radical, the cetyl radical, the stearyl radical and the eicosyl radical being preferred. Lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside are particularly preferred.

Alkyl glucosides (also: alkyl polyglycosides) used according to the invention can be obtained by processes such as are described, for example, in DE-OS 40 40 655 and other documents. They are commercially available from various manufacturers.

For example, it is advantageous to use mixtures of stearyl glucoside and cetyl glucoside. Such mixtures are commercially available, for example, from the company Th. Goldschmidt KG under the trade name Tego® Gare SG 90.

The total amount of one or more surface-active glucose derivatives used according to the invention in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The cleaning compositions containing alkyl glucosides used according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up removal product for decorative cosmetics.

For use, the compositions comprising alkylglucosides used according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics. The cleaning preparations within the meaning of the present invention advantageously contain one or more detergent surfactants from the following four groups A to D:

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously

Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-Oleth-10 phosphate and Dilureth-4 phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12- - | ₄ olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Benzalkonium chloride, alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultain are advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamine, for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

3. N-alkyl or N-alkenyl betaines with at least 12 carbon atoms, such as. B. lauryl amidopropyl betaine and oleyl amidopropyl betaine

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide, 4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl lauryl glyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosyl and glyp Decylglycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ether

7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

The cleaning preparations in the sense of the present invention particularly advantageously contain one or more wash-active surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, very particularly those which have an HLB value of more than 35.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparation is in the range from 2.0 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 2.5 to 15% by weight. % is selected, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

The compositions within the meaning of the present invention further advantageously contain water and optionally the additives customary in cosmetics, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ™), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S from Lonza available and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.

For the purposes of the present invention, the water phase of the preparations can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, dihydroxyacetone and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. Moisturizers can also be used with preference.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called trans-epidermal water joss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which in the Chemical Abstracts filed under registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin and / or the hair from oxidative stress. Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitin, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Examples:

formulation Examples

Claims

claims:

1. Use of one or more surface-active substances, selected from the group of alkyl glucosides, which are characterized by the structural formula

distinguish, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 4 to 24

Represents carbon atoms and where D is an average degree of glucosylation of up to 2, to achieve or increase the selectivity of cosmetic or dermatological cleansing preparations.

2. Use after. Claim 1, characterized in that the content of one or more alkyl glucosides is selected from the range from 0.3 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation, in particular from the range from 0.5 to 10% by weight ,

3. Use according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the total concentration of the surfactants in the range from 1.5 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation, in particular in the range from 2.0 to 15 wt. -% lies.

4. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl glucoside or are selected from the group of decyl glucosides and lauryl glucosides.

5. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations contain cosurfactants selected from the group of alkyl ether sulfates and / or alkyl taurates.

6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations contain gel formers from the group of polyacrylates and / or acrylate copolymers and / or polysaccharides.

7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations are used for face cleaning.

8. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations are preferably used for cleaning oily and / or impure skin / scalp.

9. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations contain further cosmetic auxiliaries, in particular skin moisturizers, oil components, dyes, pigments, preservatives and / or perfume.

10. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations are suitable for foaming with a pump foam, preferably with a splash-proof pump foam.

11. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations are suitable for body cleaning.