WO2002064105A2

WO2002064105A2 - Silicone replacement materials in hair cosmetics

Info

Publication number: WO2002064105A2
Application number: PCT/EP2002/000976
Authority: WO
Inventors: Peter Busch; Thomas Otto Gassenmeier
Original assignee: Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority date: 2001-02-09
Filing date: 2002-01-31
Publication date: 2002-08-22
Also published as: DE10105922A1; WO2002064105A3

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising carbohydrates, amino acids, peptides, oleaginous bodies, detergents and quaternary ammonium compounds and use thereof as silicone replacements in agents for influencing the properties of fibrous materials, in particular hair, such as volume, shine, hold, fullness, tactility, electrostatic properties and resistance to heat, UV- and IR-radiation.

Description

Hair cosmetic silicone substitutes

The invention relates to a composition comprising carbohydrates, amino acids, peptides, oil bodies, surfactants and quaternary ammonium compounds, their use as a silicone substitute in agents for influencing properties of fibrous materials such as hair and wool, in particular the properties of hair such as volume, shine, hold, fullness, Tactility, electrostatics and resistance to heat, UV and IR radiation.

The cleaning and care of the hair is an important part of human body care. Both cleaning the hair with shampoos and decorating the hairstyle, for example by dyeing or perming, are interventions that influence the natural structure and properties of the hair. Following such a treatment, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair may be unsatisfactory or the hair may have an increased split ends.

It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special after-treatment. Here, usually in the form of a rinse, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves combability, hold and fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.

In addition, so-called combination preparations have recently been developed in order to reduce the complexity of the conventional multi-stage processes, in particular when used directly by consumers.

In addition to the usual components, for example for cleaning the hair, these preparations additionally contain active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves one application step; At the same time, the packaging effort is reduced because one product is used less. The active ingredients available both for separate post-treatment agents and for combination products have so far not been able to meet all of the consumers' wishes.

Since the beginning of the 1960s, silicone compounds have become increasingly important as components of cosmetic preparations, since they improve the skin and hair feel even in small quantities, are chemically inert, compatible with practically all cosmetic ingredients and, ultimately, are harmless from a dermatological point of view. However, it is problematic in many cases that the silicones cannot be incorporated stably into aqueous formulations, which leads to unsightly creams or even irreversible phase separation, especially when stored for long periods or when exposed to heat. This problem occurs in particular when the emulsions also contain pearlescent waxes. Another disadvantage associated with the use of silicone compounds is that the silicones show a tendency to accumulate on the skin and hair ("build-up" effect), which leads to an undesirable blunt grip over time On the one hand, the desired high stability of the silicones is, on the other hand, associated with reduced biodegradability and a resulting environmental impact.

The object on which the present invention is based is therefore to provide silicone substitutes which do not have the disadvantages described above, but nevertheless enable a comparable influencing of the properties of fibrous materials, such as hair and wool. The object was achieved according to the invention by a composition comprising

Carbohydrates,

Amino acids,

peptides

Oil components,

Surfactants quaternary ammonium compounds. In finely differentiating sensory assessment investigations on human hair it was possible to show that formulations comprising the above-mentioned components give the hair a silicone-like feel and thus represent a good alternative to the silicone compounds.

Carbohydrates suitable for the purposes of the invention can be cyclic or open-chain. Preferred carbohydrates are selected from the group consisting of aldohexoses, aldopentoses, aldofuranoses, aldopyranoses, glycosamines from aldopyranoses, glycosamines from aldofuranoses, dimeric reducing aldopyranoses and the glycosamines, dimeric reducing aldofuranoses formed therefrom and the glycosonic acids, trimers, or trimers formed from them, glycosonic acids, or trimers, glycosonic acids, trimers, or glycosonic acids, trimers, or trimers the lactones formed from it. Carbohydrates selected from the group consisting of allose, old rose, galactose, glucose, glucofructose, fructose, gulose, idose, mannose, saccarose, talose, glucosamine, galactosamine, mannosamine, maltose, cellobiose, gentiobiose, lactose, lactosamine are particularly suitable , Melezitose, erythrose, threose, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, glucuronic acid and gluconic acid. Glucose is particularly preferred.

The compositions according to the invention usually contain 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 5% by weight, of one or more carbohydrates, based on the total composition.

The amino acids (AS) which can be used in the context of the invention are all natural and unnatural α- and β-amino acids, but natural amino acids or their racemates are preferably used. Amino acids selected from the group consisting of glycine, serine, cysteine, threonine, methionine, alanine and phenylalanine are particularly preferably used.

The compositions according to the invention usually contain 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 5% by weight, of one or more amino acids, based on the total composition. The peptides used are selected from oligopeptides (2-9 AS), polypeptides (10-100 AS) and macropeptides (> 100 AS) as well as protein hydrolyzates. Peptides which are selected from gluadine, glycine-glycine, alanine-glycine, serine-glycine, serine-serine, glycine-proline, phenylalanine-glycine and glycine-alanine-valine are particularly preferably used.

The compositions according to the invention usually contain 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1, 5 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 5% by weight, of one or more peptides, based on the total composition.

The oil bodies which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from i. Dialkyl carbonates of the formula (I)

R ¹ therein represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms (e.g. a 2-ethylhexyl, isotridecyl or isostearyl radical) or a radical which is a polyol having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least derives two and at most 10, preferably 6, particularly preferably 4, hydroxyl groups,

R ² corresponds to the definition of R ¹ or an alkyl radical having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and n and m are independently 0 or integers from 1 to 100; ii. Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols (linear, saturated or unsaturated primary alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms are generally referred to as fatty alcohols) with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms; iii. Esters of linear C ₆ -C (fatty acids are used as i A. aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids having 1 to 30 carbon atoms.) ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ - C ₂₂ fatty alcohols; iv. Esters of branched C ₆ -C ₃ carboxylic acids with linear C6-C2 ₂ -

Fatty alcohols; v. Esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol; vi. Esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyvalent C ₂ -

C ₆ alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or

Guerbet alcohols; vii.Triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids; viii. Esters of fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic CQ

C ₁₂ carboxylic acids; ix. vegetable oils; x. branched primary alcohols; xi. substituted cyclohexanes; xii. linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates and / or Guerbet carbonates, xiii. Dialkyl ethers with 8 to 32 carbon atoms, xiv. aliphatic and naphthenic hydrocarbons.

The under i. The dialkyl carbonates mentioned are in principle known substances. In general, the substances can be prepared by transesterification of dimethyl or diethyl carbonate with the hydroxy compounds mentioned by the processes of the prior art; an overview of this can be found, for example, in Chem. Rev. 96, 951 (1996). Dialkyl carbonates of the formula (I), which are particularly suitable for solving the present task, meet one of the following conditions:

(a) R ¹ represents a linear alkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms or a 2-ethylhexyl radical and R ^{2 represents} R ¹ or a methyl group;

(b) R ¹ is a linear alkyl radical having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} R ¹ or methyl and n and m are each numbers from 1 to 10;

(c) R ¹ is a radical of a polyol which is selected from the group formed by glycerol, alkylene glycols, technical oligoglycerol mixtures, methylol compounds, lower alkyl glucosides, sugar alcohols, sugars and amino sugars, and R ^{2 is} R ¹ , a linear or branched alkyl radical with 8 to 12 carbon atoms or methyl. Typical examples of dialkyl carbonates of the two groups (a) and (b) are complete or partial transesterification products of dimethyl and / or diethyl carbonate with capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol , Oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are used, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils from oils and ro ores from aldehydes and oils from aldehydes or oils from aldehydes or from oils or oils arise as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. The transesterification products of the lower carbonates with the alcohols mentioned are likewise suitable in the form of their adducts with 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 50 and in particular 5 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide.

The carbonates of group (c) are substances which are obtained by completely or partially transesterifying dimethyl and / or diethyl carbonate with polyols. Polyols which are suitable for the purposes of the invention preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are glycerin;

Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

Methylol compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside; Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as

Sorbitol or mannitol,

Sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars such as glucamine.

In this reaction it is of course not only possible to replace a methyl or ethyl group with a polyol residue, but rather to obtain a mixture in which several or even all of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol are linked to carbonate groups, so that even an oligomeric or polymer network structure results. For the purposes of the invention, substances of this type are also intended to be encompassed by the general formula (I).

Oil bodies which are preferably used are caprone / caprylic triglyceride, dioctyl ether and glyceryl oleate.

The compositions according to the invention usually contain 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, of one or more oil bodies, based on the total composition.

In principle, all surfactants described in the prior art can be used within the scope of the invention, provided that they have sufficient dermatological compatibility. Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. Surfactants which are particularly compatible with the skin are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides and fatty alcohol / fatty acid base fatty acids, fatty alkaloids or fatty acid base fatty acids, alkali alcohol or protein sulfonate fatty acids, preferably alkali alcohol or protein sulfonate fatty acids, fatty alcohol glucamides, fatty alcohol alkoxylates or fatty acid base fatty acids, alkyl amide or sulfate base fatty acids, preferably alkali alcohol or protein base fatty acids.

Preferred surfactants used are sodium laureth sulfate, MIPA laureth sulfate, laureth-3, cocoamide and cocoglucoside. The compositions according to the invention usually contain 2 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 18% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 15% by weight, of one or more surfactants, based on the total composition.

Quaternary ammonium compounds which can be used in the context of the invention are selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride / bromide (CTA), stearyltrimethylammonium chloride / bromide, distearyldimethylammonium chloride / bromide, lauryldimethylammonium chloride / bromide, lauryldimethylbenzylammididium chloride / aus-bromomidium chloride / ausbromide and / - bromide "Esterquats" (quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts), for example dimethyldistearoylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, Dehyquart ^® AU-46, Dehyquart ^® F-30 and Dehyquart ^® F-75 and Polyquaternium-10.

The compositions according to the invention usually contain 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, of one or more quaternary ammonium compounds, based on the total composition.

The compositions are supplemented with water to 100% by weight, so that, unless stated otherwise, all the percentages by weight relate to the percentages by weight of the constituent in question in the aqueous composition.

The compositions according to the invention can be used in agents for hair and body care, such as shampoos, conditioners, rinses, aerosols and gels, or else in agents for wool treatment / care in the form of detergents, fabric softeners and finishes.

Such compositions usually comprise the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably up to 20% by weight, based on the compositions. The agents can additionally contain a carrier. The proportion of such a carrier can be 2 to 15% by weight, preferably 3 to 12% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition of the agent.

Suitable carriers are solid, liquid, gel-like or pasty and preferably consist of aqueous systems, natural or synthetic oils or oil-in-water emulsions. Such systems are known in the prior art, to which reference is hereby made.

The formulations can also contain conventional additives such as mild surfactants, other oil substances, superfatting agents, stabilizers, waxes, consistency enhancers, thickening agents, cationic polymers, biogenic agents, anti-dandruff agents, film formers, preservatives, hydrotropes, solubilizers, UV light protection filters, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, dyes and fragrances , Rheology aids, antioxidants, stabilizers, and the like.

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers. Mainly fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides come into consideration as consistency agents. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, poly sacchahde, in particular xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and di-esters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopol ^® of Goodrich or Synthalene ^® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with restricted Homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400 ^® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / inylimidazole polymers such as Luviquat ^® (BASF ), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized Kollagenpoly- peptide for example lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (LamequatΘL / Grunau), quaternized Weizenpolypeptide, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine ^® / Sandoz), copolymers acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat ^® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides as described for example in FR-A 2252840 and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized es chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines such as bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum such as ^Jaguar® CBS, ^Jaguar® C-17, ^Jaguar® C-16 the Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as Mirapol ^® A-15, Mirapol ^® AD-1, Mirapol ^® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Since the object of the invention has been to replace silicone compounds in the formulations, formulations comprising the compositions according to the invention are preferably silicone-free. However, the additional presence of these substances is not fundamentally excluded. Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Typical examples of fats are glycerides; waxes include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax or microwaxes, optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, for example cetyl stearyl alcohol or partial glycerides. Pearlescent waxes which can be used are, in particular, mono- and difatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycols, partial glycerides or esters of fatty alcohols with polybasic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids. Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate can be used as stabilizers. Biogenic active substances are to be understood to mean, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmate, ascorbic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, plant extracts and vitamin complexes. Climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents. Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

UV light protection filters are understood to mean organic substances which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. Typical examples are 4-aminobenzoic acid and its esters and derivatives (e.g. 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylaminobenzoate or p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid octyl ester), methoxy cinnamic acid and its derivatives (e.g. 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester), benzophenones (e.g. oxybenzone, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone), dibenzoylmethane, salicylate ester, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, Methylbenzylidene camphor and the like. Furthermore, finely disperse metal oxides or salts are also suitable for this purpose, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but they can also such particles are used that have an ellipsoidal shape or shape that differs from the spherical shape in some other way. In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are

glycerol;

Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol,

Propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000

Dalton; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a

Diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as

Sorbitol or mannitol,

Sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars such as glucamine.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid. As insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or insect repellent 3535, dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40

Wt .-% - based on the means - amount. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; preferably one works according to the

Phase inversion temperature method.

The agents are applied by application to those to be treated

Substrates (hair, wool) and then washing out (rinse-off products) or remaining (leave-on products) on the materials.

The treatment can have a permanent influence on the properties of the substrates, such as wet and dry combability, hold, moisture, strength, fullness, shine, tactility and electrostatic properties, as well as resistance to UV and IR radiation and heat.

The invention is explained in more detail by the following examples, but without restricting it thereto.

Examples

To clarify the effect according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention (Examples 1 to 5) were applied to strands of hair made from dark, central European hair. After conditioning, the strands of hair were examined under standardized, air-conditioned conditions by an expert panel with regard to sensory properties against the same strands of hair that were treated with a composition of the prior art (benchmark) (sensory assessment). The hair treated with the formulation according to the invention showed silicone-like grip properties.

Claims

claims

1. Composition comprising carbohydrates, amino acids, peptides, oil bodies, surfactants, quaternized ammonium compounds.

Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the carbohydrates are selected from aldohexoses, aldopentoses, aldofuranoses, aldopyranoses, glycosamines from aldopyranoses, glycosamines from aldofuranoses, dimeric reducing aldopyranoses and the glycosamines, dimeric reducing aldofuranoses formed therefrom, and the trimerenes formed therefrom , Glycuronic acids, aldonic acids or the lactones formed therefrom.

Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the carbohydrates are selected from allose, altrose, galactose, glucose, glucofructose, fructose, gulose, idose, mannose, saccarose, talose, glucosamine, galactosamine, mannosamine, maltose, cellobiose, Gentiobiose, lactose, lactosamine, melezitose, erythrose, threose, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid δ-lactone and gluconic acid.

Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino acids are selected from natural and unnatural α and β amino acids.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the amino acids are selected from glycine, serine cysteine, threonine, methionine, alanine and phenylalanine.

6. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the peptides are selected from oligopeptides (2-9 AS), polypeptides (10- 100 AS) and macropeptides (> 100 AS) and protein hydrolyzates.

7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the peptides are selected from gluadine, glycine-glycine, alanine-glycine, serine-glycine and phenylalanine-glycine, serine-serine, glycine-proline, glycine-alanine-valine.

8. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil bodies are selected from i. Dialkyl carbonates of the formula (I)

R ¹ stands for a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms or a radical which is derived from a polyol with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups,

R ² corresponds to the definition of R ¹ or an alkyl radical with 1 to 5 carbon atoms and n and m are independently 0 or integers from 1 to 100; ii. Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18 carbon atoms; iii. Esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols; iv. Esters of branched C ₆ -C 3 carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C 22 fatty alcohols; v. Esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols; vi. Esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric C ₂ -C ₆ alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols; vii. Triglycerides based on Cβ-Cio fatty acids; viii. Esters of fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic C ₆ -Ci ₂ _ carboxylic acids; ix. vegetable oils; x. branched primary alcohols; xi. substituted cyclohexanes; xii. linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates and / or Guerbet carbonates, xiii. Dialkyl ethers with 8 to 32 carbon atoms, xiv. aliphatic and naphthenic hydrocarbons.

9. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the surfactants are selected from fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucucamides, fatty acid amide, fatty acid , Fatty alcohol sulfonates and / or protein fatty acid condensates, sodium laureth sulfate, MIPA laureth sulfate, laureth-3, cocoamide and cocoglucoside.

10. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compounds are selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride / bromide, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride / bromide, distearyldimethylammonium chloride / bromide, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and bromide, and bromide quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains 0.2 to 5% by weight of one or more oil bodies, 1 to 10% by weight of one or more amino acids, 1 to 10 % By weight of one or more peptides, 1 to 10% by weight of one or more carbohydrates, 0.2 to 5% by weight of one or more quaternary ammonium compounds, 2 to 20% by weight of one or more surfactants and water ad 100 wt .-% - based on the total composition.

12. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 as a silicone substitute for influencing the properties of fibrous materials.

13. Hair and wool care compositions comprising the composition of any of claims 1 to 11.

14. Composition according to claim 13 comprising the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 in a proportion of 0.5 to 50 wt .-% - based on the total composition of the agent.

15. A composition according to any one of claims 13 to 14 comprising a solid, liquid, pasty or gel-like carrier.

16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that it is present as a solution, gel or emulsion.

17. Agent according to any one of claims 13 to 16, selected from the group consisting of formulations for hair care, finishes, detergents and fabric softeners for wool.

18. Composition according to any one of claims 13 to 17, characterized in that the formulations for hair care are selected from the group consisting of shampoos, conditioners, permanent wave liquids, hair dyes and fixations for the treatment of permed hair.