WO2001068964A1 - Procede permettant de fabriquer des articles industriels composites a partir d'une etoffe tubulaire et produits ainsi obtenus - Google Patents

Procede permettant de fabriquer des articles industriels composites a partir d'une etoffe tubulaire et produits ainsi obtenus Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001068964A1
WO2001068964A1 PCT/IT2001/000121 IT0100121W WO0168964A1 WO 2001068964 A1 WO2001068964 A1 WO 2001068964A1 IT 0100121 W IT0100121 W IT 0100121W WO 0168964 A1 WO0168964 A1 WO 0168964A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
needles
fabric
knitted
length
producing
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IT2001/000121
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Franco Sciacca
Original Assignee
Franco Sciacca
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Franco Sciacca filed Critical Franco Sciacca
Priority to AU2001244538A priority Critical patent/AU2001244538A1/en
Publication of WO2001068964A1 publication Critical patent/WO2001068964A1/fr

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0113One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings

Definitions

  • knitwear items usually consisting of a close-fitting tracksuit, often provided with upper shoulder straps, with long or short trousers, onto which additional items can be sewn or worn, such as pants or brassieres, even in a different color, with aesthetic and functional aims.
  • the present invention aims at reducing to a high extent or at wholly eliminating some of the above- mentioned manufacturing and functional limitations, so as to produce automatically tubular knitwear items without longitudinal seams, generally consisting of an outer knitted tube provided with inner additional portions of concentric multi-layer tubular fabric, having a sufficient capacity of shaping and anatomic support even for specific portions, with original economical, technical, aesthetic and commercial purposes.
  • a main aim of the present invention consists in providing a method for the production of compound tubular items with circular knitting machines, said items being provided with additional concentric fabric areas within the outer knitted tube to which they are structurally and functionally connected to shape, wrap and support anatomic portions.
  • Another aim consists in providing a method for the production of compound tubular items having a plurality of layers or concentric fabrics, which can also at least partially overlap, by means of the fixed and extended selection of alternated needles on the circumference of the needle cylinder.
  • a further aim consists in providing a method for the production of multipurpose tubular items with several concentric layers or fabrics, at least partially overlapping, by means of the extended selection of alternated needles with respect to groups of non-alternated needles, preferably on the whole circumference of the cylinder or needle bed.
  • An additional aim consists in providing a method for the production of the textile items such as frills, belts, pants and bras in particular, with specific areas of dimensionally more stable fabric, so as to create or improve features such as shaping or specific or particular anatomic support.
  • a final aim consists in providing a method for the production of items consisting of one or more garments, which are structurally connected to the knitted tube and therefore worn onto said knitted tube with the purpose of improving shaping and anatomic support features together with aesthetic and commercial advantages.
  • FIG. 1 shows a knitted outer tube provided with two- layer inner frills, indicated with dashed lines;
  • figure 2 is a schematic view of the knitted tube of figure 1;
  • FIG. 3 shows a knitted tube with frills 2 and 3 arranged on the outside of the knitted tube.
  • FIG. 4 shows a knitted tube with a lifted double welt and with inner frills placed in the breasts area and in the ventral area;
  • FIG. 5 is a front view of a compound manufactured item consisting of an inner tracksuit, an outer brassiere and an outer pant, continuously produced.
  • - figure 6 is a front view of a compound tubular dress provided inside with pant and brassiere, structurally connected to the outer knitted tube;
  • - figure 7 shows a fabric with a central zone having floating yarns FF;
  • figures 7a, 7b and 7c schematically show some applications of floating yarns, variously manipulated and knitted;
  • - figure 8 is a front view of a fabric having frills Bi made only with odd needles AD, with even needles AP not operating;
  • FIG. 8a shows a needle A, usually housed within the bed or cylinder (not shown), on whose stem the underlying fabric and the inner frill Bi are still engaged;
  • FIG. 10 technically shows the technical pattern for the production of a so-called “embossed” or cellular knitted structure, with an alternated and prolonged sequence of tuck stitches;
  • FIG. 12 shows a tuck stitch PT within a knitted structure
  • - figure 13 is a perspective view of the needles carrying out the sequences for the production of a "tuck stitch”
  • - figure 14 is a perspective view of the needles starting the sequences for the production of knit frills Bi, by weaving a single "bridle”;
  • - figure 15 shows a single "bridle” BR within a knitted structure
  • - figures 16 and 16a show the technical pattern for the production of a single "bridle” BR
  • figure 17 is a technical key for the patterns of figures 9, 10, 11, 16.
  • a circular knitting machine for producing compound tubular knitted items, comprising at least a needle bed and/or rotary cylinder versus fixed cams or vice versa; a complete working feed, provided with one or more yarn feeders; preferably electronic needle selection for controlling the elements involved in the knitting process according to a work cycle and/or a jacquard design; cams for knitting which can also be individually adjusted by means of motors and computer; a device for opening needle latches upon actuation; a fabric pulling system; said machine being also equipped with a dial with selectable needles or jacks, beyond the usual yarn suction and cutting device.
  • the invention is firstly carried out by preparing a work cycle and jacquard design, i.e. direct or precluded inputs to needles by means of a graphics workstation and/or control devices or other similar means suitable to said purpose.
  • the production of the manufactured item 1 of figure 1 indifferently starts from B-C-D and goes on with the double welt 5, usually obtained with the dial jacks (not shown) , said terms being known the person skilled in the art.
  • the production goes on with all the needles in the needle bed following the direction of the arrows, therefore from bottom to top, as far as the point K where it is modified and partially interrupted.
  • the invention now provides for the beginning of the knitting process for the two-layer inner frill 3, which engages only alternated needles such as for instance the odd ones, whereas the even needles keep the fabric previously produced.
  • the work cycle of the knitted tube 1 starts again from K with all the needles in the needle bed as far as the next point Y to produce the inner frill 2, wholly similar to the previous one 3, for which the same procedures are repeated as far as the upper welt 4 and the final inner waste Wl, or outer waste W.
  • the excluded needles are re-introduced in the knitting process after an elevated number of stitch courses, for example more than a hundred courses.
  • the outer tube 2 more schematically, therefore consists of the outer tube 1, substantially produced with all the needles of the needle bed, and of frills which can be folded along arrows F, i.e. the inner areas 2 and 3 of two-layer fabric produced with a small number of needles.
  • the lower welt 5A and the upper welt 4A are produced with the usual dial jacks or needles or with another needle bed (not shown) , whereas welts 5B and 4B are produced only with alternated cylinder needles. Unusually, during the knitting process, a great part of inputs or commands usually directed to the needles is not sent to a part of the latter, following a given pattern or program according to the original design.
  • Figures 8b-8c-8d schematically show the horizontal and diagonal arrangement of frills Bi, which are repeated in various portions of the manufactured items to achieve structuring, padding or additional comfort effects. Therefore, the invention is at least partially carried out by using differently said floating yarns FF resulting from the fact that between the stitches M and Ml the usual knitting process of fabric M is interrupted, and the latter is replaced by the above-mentioned floating yarns variously placed or crossed: free floating yarns FFL as in fig. 7A; woven floating yarns FFI as in fig. 7B, or laid-in floating yarns FFT as in fig.
  • Said three-dimensional frills Bi are particularly efficient in horizontal and diagonal directions; therefore, if suitably stretched and placed according to the invention, they work as additional portions of two-layer tubular fabric which can be used for several aims: linings, brassieres, pants and inner and outer pockets, are obtained by arranging a small group of adjacent needles, for instance 30-60 units, in one or more cylinder portions in which other needles work only alternately.
  • the additional shoulder straps 14 of fig. 5 are obtained in at least two ways: automatically, by the programmed discharge of a suitable number of stitches by the needles and then by taking up again the knitting process by means of said needles on arrows FI in fig. 3.
  • Fig. 4 shows within the knitted tube 1 the lower frill 3 for whole or reduced pants, and the upper frill 2 working as a brassiere.
  • Such frills 2 and 3, produced according to the invention and indicated with a dashed line, are placed between the breasts on the central area AC and ventral area AV, and have been further developed by adding suitable knitted structures graphically shown in figures 7, 7a, 7b, 7c, 8 and in particular in figure 10, to provide a higher dimensional stability and anatomic support.
  • Figure 4 shows also an upper double edge 4 partially open and lifted according to arrows F with respect to the knitted tube 1.
  • Figures 5 and 6 show two preferred embodiments of the invention in a more realistic way.
  • Fig. 5 shows the tracksuit 1 provided with upper shoulder straps 14, obtained from the above-mentioned welt 4, with short trousers with double lower welt 5 and inner Wl or outer W waste.
  • This compound garment consists of two continuously produced concentric fabrics, the inner one 1 having the function of tracksuit, whereas the frills 2 and 3, placed on the outside of the tracksuit 1, respectively have the function of brassiere 2 with folded elastic upper 01/68964
  • the tubular dress 1 is provided with a collar 4, with openings for arms 7, with the pant 3 and with the brassiere 2, indicated with dashed lines. Said tubular items can be worn and therefore shown both normally and inside out, also in order to stress the transparent effect between the bottom fabric, which is sometimes different from the one lying above as far as yarn, color or structure are concerned, and the top fabric consisting also of said open-work or transparent structures.
  • the present description though necessarily limited, provides people skilled in the art with wide possibilities of novelty falling within the framework of the invention.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des articles de confection tubulaires composites (1) qui sont essentiellement fabriqués sans coupe ni couture. Ces articles se caractérisent en ce qu'ils présentent des volants multicouches (2, 3) ou des zones d'étoffe supplémentaires disposés dans le tube tricoté ordinaire et présentant des fonctions diverses, telles que brassière, culotte, doublure ou autre article analogue. Selon la conception jacquard et le cycle de travail de la machine textile, le procédé décrit dans cette invention permet, d'une part, de créer de l'étoffe dans des zones particulière sauf dans certaines zones prédéterminées et amovibles d'au moins une partie de l'étoffe extérieure et, d'autre part, de produire simultanément un excédent d'étoffe ou deux volants intérieurs bicouches (2, 3), ces derniers étant concentriques et recouvrant au moins en partie le tube tricoté externe.
PCT/IT2001/000121 2000-03-14 2001-03-12 Procede permettant de fabriquer des articles industriels composites a partir d'une etoffe tubulaire et produits ainsi obtenus WO2001068964A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU2001244538A AU2001244538A1 (en) 2000-03-14 2001-03-12 Method for producing compound manufactured items of tubular fabric and products obtained thereby

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT2000CO000009A ITCO20000009A1 (it) 2000-03-14 2000-03-14 Metodo e apparecchiatura per la produzione di manufatti composti di maglieria tubolare e prodotti risultanti.
ITCO2000A000009 2000-03-14

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2001068964A1 true WO2001068964A1 (fr) 2001-09-20

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IT2001/000121 WO2001068964A1 (fr) 2000-03-14 2001-03-12 Procede permettant de fabriquer des articles industriels composites a partir d'une etoffe tubulaire et produits ainsi obtenus

Country Status (3)

Country Link
AU (1) AU2001244538A1 (fr)
IT (1) ITCO20000009A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2001068964A1 (fr)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1712143A3 (fr) * 2005-04-15 2008-05-14 Tytex A/S Vêtement pour l'allaitement
WO2011106014A1 (fr) * 2010-02-26 2011-09-01 Hbi Branded Apparel Enterprises, Llc Soutien-gorge tricoté sans couture tubulaire et procédé de fabrication de celui-ci
US8065753B2 (en) 2004-12-29 2011-11-29 Tytex A/S Garment protection device and method for reducing the risk of bone fracture
US8398453B2 (en) 2010-02-26 2013-03-19 Hbi Branded Apparel Enterprises, Llc Tubular seamless knitted brassiere and method of making same

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2134219A1 (de) * 1969-05-17 1973-01-25 Triumph International Ag Zu: 1925302
US4531525A (en) * 1983-11-25 1985-07-30 Richards Mark S Methods of knitting brassiere blank, manufacturing brassiere, and products
FR2647816A1 (fr) * 1989-06-05 1990-12-07 Devanlay Sa Procede pour la realisation d'un produit textile de structure annulaire
EP0887450A2 (fr) * 1997-06-25 1998-12-30 Santoni S.p.A. Procédé pour la fabrication d'articles tricotés comportant un passage pour l'insertion d'éléments de support, et article obtenu selon ce procédé
WO2000055409A1 (fr) * 1999-03-18 2000-09-21 Andrea Conti Vetements tricotes double face constitues de deux parties continues ou plus, et leur systeme de fabrication
WO2000071794A1 (fr) * 1999-05-24 2000-11-30 Franco Sciacca Procede et appareil de production automatique d'articles de bonneterie tubulaires presentant au moins une attache, des bretelles, et des boucles, et produits ainsi obtenus

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2134219A1 (de) * 1969-05-17 1973-01-25 Triumph International Ag Zu: 1925302
US4531525A (en) * 1983-11-25 1985-07-30 Richards Mark S Methods of knitting brassiere blank, manufacturing brassiere, and products
FR2647816A1 (fr) * 1989-06-05 1990-12-07 Devanlay Sa Procede pour la realisation d'un produit textile de structure annulaire
EP0887450A2 (fr) * 1997-06-25 1998-12-30 Santoni S.p.A. Procédé pour la fabrication d'articles tricotés comportant un passage pour l'insertion d'éléments de support, et article obtenu selon ce procédé
WO2000055409A1 (fr) * 1999-03-18 2000-09-21 Andrea Conti Vetements tricotes double face constitues de deux parties continues ou plus, et leur systeme de fabrication
WO2000071794A1 (fr) * 1999-05-24 2000-11-30 Franco Sciacca Procede et appareil de production automatique d'articles de bonneterie tubulaires presentant au moins une attache, des bretelles, et des boucles, et produits ainsi obtenus

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8065753B2 (en) 2004-12-29 2011-11-29 Tytex A/S Garment protection device and method for reducing the risk of bone fracture
EP1712143A3 (fr) * 2005-04-15 2008-05-14 Tytex A/S Vêtement pour l'allaitement
US7430883B2 (en) 2005-04-15 2008-10-07 Tytex A/S Garment, preferably for nursing, and method for providing such
WO2011106014A1 (fr) * 2010-02-26 2011-09-01 Hbi Branded Apparel Enterprises, Llc Soutien-gorge tricoté sans couture tubulaire et procédé de fabrication de celui-ci
CN102770036A (zh) * 2010-02-26 2012-11-07 Hbi品牌服饰企业有限责任公司 管状无缝针织胸罩及其制造方法
US8398453B2 (en) 2010-02-26 2013-03-19 Hbi Branded Apparel Enterprises, Llc Tubular seamless knitted brassiere and method of making same

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AU2001244538A1 (en) 2001-09-24
ITCO20000009A1 (it) 2001-09-14

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