EP1409779A1 - Proc d de production d'articles de tricotage tubulaire et produits obtenus selon ce proc d - Google Patents

Proc d de production d'articles de tricotage tubulaire et produits obtenus selon ce proc d

Info

Publication number
EP1409779A1
EP1409779A1 EP01949890A EP01949890A EP1409779A1 EP 1409779 A1 EP1409779 A1 EP 1409779A1 EP 01949890 A EP01949890 A EP 01949890A EP 01949890 A EP01949890 A EP 01949890A EP 1409779 A1 EP1409779 A1 EP 1409779A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
needles
frills
knitted
fabric
items
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01949890A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Franco Sciacca
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP1409779A1 publication Critical patent/EP1409779A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/243—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel upper parts of panties; pants
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0113—One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for producing tubular knitwear items and products obtained thereby.
  • the invention relates to the production of knitwear items provided with zones of three-dimensional fabric, apt to shape and give relief to the structure, the comfort and the specific anatomic containment of the products obtained thereby.
  • the panty 1 seen from the back, is characterised by the usual belt or double elastic welt DB and by the zone of diapered fabric CA, located between the glutei, in order to shape the manufactured item to the human body.
  • Said diapered fabric CA is usually obtained with a design and structure of ordinary jersey fabric formed by the appropriate combination of normal stitches or loops; elongated loops; and tuck stitches, said terms being _known to the people skilled in the art.
  • the aforementioned panty 1 is not wholly satisfying because shape, section and annular development of said elastic welt DB do not take into account the complex shape differences of the human body, whereas the zone of diapered fabric CA shows other limitations.
  • said diapered fabric CA is substantially only flat, therefore not three-dimensional; on the other hand it fulfils only partially the high requirements of shape, comfort and prop for the concerned anatomic portions.
  • the most scrupulous textile industries finish said panty by sewing on said parts an additional insert of three-dimensional fabric.
  • the present invention aims at reducing to a significant extent or eliminate the aforesaid technical and productive limitations, so as to automatically and advantageously obtain tubular knitwear items with even highly different belts or elastic welts, together with specific zones with gradually three-dimensional fabric, for a better shape, control, prop and anatomic support, with original productive, technical, aesthetic and commercial purposes.
  • a main aim of the present invention consists in providing a method for manufacturing tubular knitwear items, even strongly shaped, provided at least partially with substantially three-dimensional fabric structures, structurally engaged within the knitted tube, (or its reverse) , automatically manufactured in compliance with a modified jacquard design, only with groups of needles variously alternated.
  • a further main aim consists in providing a method for automatically manufacturing knitwear items such as panties, bras and similar, provided with specific areas of three-dimensional fabric placed between the breasts or the glutei and as far as the genitals, for a better anatomic shape, containment, prop and support.
  • An additional aim consists in providing a method for substantially modifying the appearance and the annular development of the usual elastic belt or band of the aforesaid knitwear items following guidelines or outlines designed in compliance with the different anatomic shapes, that is to say, more suitable to the innumerable sizes of the human body.
  • a further aim consists in providing a method for producing manufactured items with one or more areas in dimensionally more stable jersey fabric, in order to implement the specific anatomic propping functions of said manufactured items. Additional aims are apparent from the description, embodiments and accompanying drawings, alone or in combination, in addition to the final claims. Disclosure of the Invention
  • FIG. 1 shows a technical scheme for the arrangement of needles for the production of three-dimensional frills Bi
  • - figure 2 shows another technical operating scheme for the needles
  • - figure 3 is a front view of a fabric having frills Bi made only with odd needles AD, with even needles AP not operating;
  • - figure 3a shows a needle A, usually housed within a bed or cylinder, on whose stem the underlying fabric and the inner frill Bi are still engaged;
  • - figure 4 is a perspective view of the frill Bi of figures 3 and 3a;
  • FIG. 8 is a back view of a panty known in the state of the art.
  • FIG. 9 is a back view of a brassiere-bra
  • FIG. 10 is a back view of a panty according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 11 is a front view of another panty according to the invention.
  • - Figure 12 shows a back view of a panty of the known art;
  • FIG. 13 shows different embodiments of the inside back portion of panties according to the present invention
  • FIG. 18 shows a further embodiment of the inside back portion of a panty
  • FIG. 19 is a transverse section view of the panty of fig. 18.
  • the invention is implemented by setting up a particular work cycle or jacquard design, i.e. information directed or precluded to the needles or jacks or other elements concurring directly or indirectly in the production of the fabric, by means of a graphic station or other control and memory devices, or by other means suitable for the purpose.
  • the present invention provides at this stage the manufacture of knitwear items characterised by fabric zones with differentiated growth due to the exclusion of a given number of needles, alternated with respect to the adjacent ones, for instance 1:1, 2:1-2:2 and similar.
  • a great part of inputs or commands usually directed to the needles is not sent to a part of the latter, following a given pattern or program according to the original design or work cycle.
  • Figs. 1-2-3-4-5-6 show technical, graphic and textile schemes pertaining to knitting technology, referring to the particular arrangement of the needles for the production of the frill of three-dimensional fabric Bi.
  • fig. 4 shows a perspective view, sufficiently realistic, of the frill Bi of figure 3, carried out with the needles AD and engaged within the knitted tube TM.
  • the needles AP are not part of the fabric-building process and keep back the corresponding last loops.
  • the invention is implemented with areas in jersey fabric substantially manufactured using all the needles, and with other areas in which, differently from the known art, the fabric-building process is interrupted. In these areas in fact the fabric produced with the alternated needles remains within the knitted tube, taking a far more efficient part in the anatomic shaping of the manufactured item than the previous or known art . For instance only even needles AP will be excluded, or alternated pairs of needles, i.e.
  • the fabric-building process goes on only with engaged alternated needles and corresponding loops AD, whereas the other free alternated needles are still engaged to the corresponding last loops AP.
  • This technique allows to produce a substantially closed knitted frill, with two layers or cloths Bi, figs. 3-4, which can be repeated and varied in vertical, horizontal and diagonal direction.
  • the composition, thickness and height of the aforementioned frills Bi are contingent factors and variables substantially affecting the degree of shape, comfort, prop and dimensional stability of the fabric and of the manufactured item.
  • fig. 7 shows a front view of a first highly schematic arrangement of the aforementioned three- dimensional frills, horizontally arranged, whereas the subsequent figures, 7a to 7h included, show further combinations in which the frills Bi are in even very different shapes and arrangements, which should affect the final appearance of the manufactured item effectively and gradually.
  • the examples in figs 7 to 7h schematically show only some of the innumerable geometrical combinations provided in the invention for the positioning of the frills Bi, which, if very close, produce original textile protuberances similar to the known pile or terry cloth, beside affecting with greater effectiveness the shape and final anatomic conformation of the manufactured item.
  • Figure 12 shows as an example of the known art the panty 1 provided with the usual two-layer elastic belt or band DB together with the back zone of diapered fabric CA, vertically placed between the glutei.
  • the frills Bi of the knitted zones CA are variously arranged according to the invention.
  • FIG. 18 shows a section of the same elements present in fig. 18; within the knitted tube TM the three-dimensional outlines of the different Bil, with the elastic welt DB1, can thus be observed.
  • the structural stiffening of the knitted zone CA produced by the inner frills " Bi in order to coordinate the functions of local anatomic prop with those of general prop, as for the shoulder straps SD-SS of the bra-brassiere 1 in fig.
  • the frills Bi variously arranged, make the fabric dimensionally more stable, both in the direction of the courses and of the wales or ribs.
  • the jersey fabric MJ intrinsically elastic, does not usually contribute to lift the user's breast and it is not shaped on it. Therefore, according to the teachings of the invention, the central portion CA is carried out with a plurality of frills Bi variously arranged. As a consequence, it is possible to obtain two advantages at the same time: the anatomic conformation to the breasts and their support with the structural link of the lower welt DB, 3 to the upper welt DB, 2 by means of the connection of the central portion CA, i.e.
  • the panty 1 of fig.8 is an example of the known art, seen from the back and provided with the usual two-layer elastic belt or band DB, together with the back area in diapered fabric CA, vertically placed between the glutei.
  • the elastic belt DB in fig. 10 shows an evident structural reduction on its central part CA, obtained by means of a plurality of inner frills Bi, suitably graduated and placed between the two knitted layers or cloths.
  • the welt DB preferably elastic and two-layered, usually obtained by means of the hooks or needles of the dial or upper needle bed (terms known to the people skilled in the art, not shown) , according to the invention and to the previous description, knitted zones with a reduced growth are produced within the knitted tube with only a part of the needles, said zones being the aforementioned frills Bi.
  • the panty 1 in fig. 10 is provided with a front knitted zone SA stiffened by means of the frills Bi, variously arranged with important functions of specific anatomic support. Said frills, when suitably designed and arranged, effectively contribute to:
  • panty 1 of fig. 10 is further characterised in its front part SA by the combinations and compositions of the frills Bi, already shown in figs. 7 to 7H included.
  • said knitted zone is specifically designed for additional function of abdominal anatomic support and greater local comfort.
  • Fig. 11 shows a panty 1 (or another tubular manufactured item provided with elastic welt DB) , characterised by the different location of said frills Bi, placed on the hips. It is thus possible to reduce the lateral production of fabric and increase the growth of the band DB in the front part, if necessary strengthened by the stitch formation cams which are selectively and specifically electronically controlled (terms known to the people skilled in the art, not shown) .
  • said frills Bi effectively contribute to:

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de production d'articles de tricotage tubulaire (1) tels que des slips, brassières, soutien-gorge, combinaisons-culottes, maillots de bain, robes, et analogues, pourvues de zones tricotées spécifiques (CA) obtenues automatiquement, lesquelles zones remplissent des fonctions de tenue du tissu, de confinement d'organe, de soutien et de support anatomique. L'invention coordonne la sélection des aiguilles appropriées (A) en fonction non seulement du dessin jacquard, mais aussi du cycle de fonctionnement du métier à tricoter. On obtient ainsi pour des zones de tissu spécifiques (CA) et des aiguilles (A) un arrêt partiel et temporaire du processus de confection du tissu pour des groupes d'aiguilles (A) alternant de diverses façons avec d'autres aiguilles (A) encore impliquées dans le processus de confection du tissu.
EP01949890A 2000-07-10 2001-06-26 Proc d de production d'articles de tricotage tubulaire et produits obtenus selon ce proc d Withdrawn EP1409779A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT2000CO000018A ITCO20000018A1 (it) 2000-07-10 2000-07-10 Metodo per la produzione di articoli a maglia tubolare con zone di maglia tridimensionale atte a produrre ed accentuare la conformazione il
ITCO000018 2000-07-10
PCT/IT2001/000334 WO2002004726A1 (fr) 2000-07-10 2001-06-26 Procédé de production d'articles de tricotage tubulaire et produits obtenus selon ce procédé

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1409779A1 true EP1409779A1 (fr) 2004-04-21

Family

ID=11441217

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP01949890A Withdrawn EP1409779A1 (fr) 2000-07-10 2001-06-26 Proc d de production d'articles de tricotage tubulaire et produits obtenus selon ce proc d

Country Status (5)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1409779A1 (fr)
AU (1) AU2001271000A1 (fr)
IT (1) ITCO20000018A1 (fr)
TW (1) TW487753B (fr)
WO (1) WO2002004726A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2861096B1 (fr) * 2003-10-21 2006-01-13 Lee Sara Corp Procede de tricotage d'un article de lingerie d'une seule piece
IT1399443B1 (it) 2010-04-16 2013-04-19 Sidney S R L Indumento intimo.
WO2015181716A1 (fr) * 2014-05-27 2015-12-03 Santoni S.P.A. Procédé de fabrication de tricot à mailles cueillies et tissu obtenu au moyen dudit procédé
US9192204B1 (en) 2014-09-30 2015-11-24 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear upper incorporating a textile component with tensile elements
US9375046B2 (en) * 2014-09-30 2016-06-28 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear incorporating a knitted component with inlaid tensile elements and method of assembly
US10822728B2 (en) 2014-09-30 2020-11-03 Nike, Inc. Knitted components exhibiting color shifting effects
US9078488B1 (en) 2014-09-30 2015-07-14 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear incorporating a lenticular knit structure
US10368590B2 (en) * 2015-11-03 2019-08-06 Nike, Inc. Flat-knit support garment for upper torso
DE102016119052A1 (de) 2016-10-07 2018-04-12 Rheinisch-Westfälische Technische Hochschule (Rwth) Aachen Verfahren zum Stricken eines dreidimensionalen Gestricks

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4531525A (en) * 1983-11-25 1985-07-30 Richards Mark S Methods of knitting brassiere blank, manufacturing brassiere, and products
US4527403A (en) * 1984-08-06 1985-07-09 Hosiery Maufacturing Corp. Of Morganton Circular knit panty and method
GB8521117D0 (en) * 1985-08-23 1985-10-02 Incotex Bv Manufacturing knitted briefs
JP3606692B2 (ja) * 1996-11-01 2005-01-05 株式会社ワコール 乳幼児用を含む幼児用衣類

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO0204726A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2002004726A1 (fr) 2002-01-17
TW487753B (en) 2002-05-21
ITCO20000018A0 (it) 2000-07-10
AU2001271000A1 (en) 2002-01-21
ITCO20000018A1 (it) 2002-01-10

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