WO2001045662A2 - Preparations cosmetiques de maquillage - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques de maquillage Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001045662A2
WO2001045662A2 PCT/EP2000/012653 EP0012653W WO0145662A2 WO 2001045662 A2 WO2001045662 A2 WO 2001045662A2 EP 0012653 W EP0012653 W EP 0012653W WO 0145662 A2 WO0145662 A2 WO 0145662A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
esters
alcohols
fatty
acid
linear
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PCT/EP2000/012653
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2001045662A3 (fr
Inventor
Marc Pauly
Muriel Pauly-Florentiny
Philippe Moser
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Cognis France, S.A.
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Priority to AU31583/01A priority Critical patent/AU3158301A/en
Publication of WO2001045662A2 publication Critical patent/WO2001045662A2/fr
Publication of WO2001045662A3 publication Critical patent/WO2001045662A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of decorative cosmetics and relates to new preparations which, in addition to oil bodies, contain special plant extracts and the use of the extracts for the production of decorative cosmetic preparations.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide new decorative cosmetic preparations in general and in particular new dyes, which are distinguished by the fact that they combine high coloring properties with particular stability and optimal skin-cosmetic compatibility. At the same time, the dyes should meet the consumer request for vegetable origin. Description of the invention
  • the plant extracts mentioned not only have a high coloring power, but also have certain emulsifying properties, which not only facilitates their incorporation into oil-containing formulations, but also the stability of the resulting products - if they are O / W or W / O emulsions act - significantly improved.
  • Another advantage is that the extracts are of vegetable origin and meet the high requirements for compatibility with the skin and eyes.
  • a first group of suitable extracts are extracts from plants of the Pterocarpus family.
  • Specific examples are the extracts from Pterocarpus macrocarpus, P. santalinus (red sandalwood), P. angolensis, P. indicus, P. soyaauxii; From an application point of view, however, the extract from Pterocarpus marsupium has proven itself.
  • the use of Pterocarpus extracts as oxidative hair dyes is also described in Japanese patent application JP-A1 Hei 10/182372 (Lion).
  • the extracts from plants of the Vaccinium family are also known in principle.
  • the extract from Vaccinium myrtillus has proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the topical application of such extracts is the subject of, for example, French patents FR-B1 2612775 (Thorel), FR-B1 2659556 (Mu Lab EurI) and FR-B1 2695318 (Metsada).
  • the blackberry extracts are characterized by a special content of anthocyanosides, proanthocyanidols and flavonoids.
  • a third group of extracts relates to extracts from plants of the genus Glycyrrhiza (licorice), such as, for example, Glycyrrhiza uralensis or in particular Glycyrrhiza glabra.
  • Glycyrrhiza licorice
  • Appropriate extracts have also been known for a long time for topical use.
  • skin care products with liquorice extracts are described in the documents DE-A1 19654508 (Lancaster) and WO 98/34591 (Procter & Gamble).
  • International patent application WO 98/17293 relates to agents for acne which also contain glycyrrhiza extracts.
  • the anti-inflammatory effect of the extracts is also described in Japanese patent application JP-A1 Hei 05/070349 (Maruzen).
  • the extracts in Japanese patent application JP-A1 Hei 06/263624 (Mochida) are recommended as depigmenting agents.
  • the main components of the extracts are glycerrhetic acid (3ß-hydroxy-11-oxoolean-12-en-30-acid, II) and glycyrrhizin (III):
  • the plant extracts can be prepared in a manner known per se, that is to say by aqueous, but preferably alcoholic, extraction. After removal of the extractant, the extracts Usually taken up in a cosmetic oil, silicone oils, such as dimethicone copolyol, for example, having proven particularly advantageous for the production of decorative cosmetic preparations.
  • esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols are suitable Fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ⁇ -Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C ⁇ s fatty acids, esters of C6- C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to
  • Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, e.g. such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • the new decorative preparations preferably contain silicones which are selected from the group formed by dimethylpolysiioxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and also amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified Silicone compounds that can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
  • the decorative cosmetic preparations according to the invention typically contain
  • the plant extracts in the oil bodies directly represent the final preparations.
  • the preparations contain further natural or synthetic dyes or color pigments, for example in amounts of 1 to 15 and preferably 2 to 10% by weight.
  • the plant extracts described above have a high skin cosmetic tolerance and a high coloring power. At the same time, they support the formation of emulsions.
  • Another object of the present invention therefore relates to the use of Pterocarpus, Vaccinium and Glycyrrhiza extracts, especially extracts of Pterocarpus marsupium, Vaccinium myrtillus and / or Glycyrrhiza glabra for the production of decorative cosmetic preparations in which they are present in amounts of 0 , 01 to 7.5, preferably 0.5 to 5 wt .-% - based on the final preparations - may be included.
  • the plant extracts can be used to produce decorative cosmetic preparations, such as make-ups, blushes, lipsticks, eye pencils, eye shadows, mascara or nail varnishes.
  • These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, emulators, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickening agents, polymers, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorants, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, Contain hydrotropes, preservatives, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • Suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
  • the adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the attachment reaction is carried out.
  • C12 / .. fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride hydroxy, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglycerid, Linolklaremonoglycerid, linoleic acid diglyceride, LinolenTalkremonoglycerid, Linolenchurediglycerid, Erucaklaklamonoglycerid, erucic acid diglyceride, rid Weinchuremonoglycerid, Weinklarediglycerid, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citronendigiyce-, Malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain minor amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polygiyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL) , Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isost
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs / i ⁇ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C. ⁇ acyl sarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 Carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates , (eg Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as Cooking salt and ammonium chloride.
  • Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
  • polysaccharides in
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g.
  • Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g.
  • cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
  • dihaloalkylene such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane
  • cationic guar gum e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese
  • quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.g. Mira
  • Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers to, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and,
  • fats are glycerides
  • waxes include natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g.
  • natural waxes e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin
  • Montanester waxes Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
  • fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
  • lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC).
  • Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and which are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
  • Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as.
  • salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylipyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
  • Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyioxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ® HEB);
  • n Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.
  • UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF).
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose.
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
  • the pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
  • ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts , Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoxinsulfoxinsulfoxinsulfoxinsulfoxins) n compatible dosages (e.g.,
  • chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and its derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol,
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
  • a tyrosine rhino For example, arbutin, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used to prevent the formation of melanin and find application in depigmenting agents.
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g.
  • the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the Jonone, ⁇ -isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance.
  • Essential oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • perfume oils e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • bergamot oil dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, ⁇ -hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irot
  • the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
  • the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.
  • Ethnocolor® PM extract from Pterocarpus marsupium in Dimethicone Copolyol
  • Ethnocolor® VM extract from Vaccinium myrtillus in Dimethicone Copolyol
  • Ethnocolor® GG extract from Glycyrrhiza glabra in Dimethicone Copolyol Commercial products from Laboratoires Serobi unanimous, Nancy / FR

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques de maquillage, caractérisées en ce qu'elles contiennent (a) au moins un extrait de plantes sélectionnées dans le groupe formé par les familles Pterocarpus, Vaccinium et Glycyrrhiza, et (b) au moins une huile corporelle.
PCT/EP2000/012653 1999-12-22 2000-12-13 Preparations cosmetiques de maquillage WO2001045662A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU31583/01A AU3158301A (en) 1999-12-22 2000-12-13 Decorative cosmetic preparations

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9916869A FR2802807B1 (fr) 1999-12-22 1999-12-22 Preparations cosmetiques de maquillage
FR99/16869 1999-12-22

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2001045662A2 true WO2001045662A2 (fr) 2001-06-28
WO2001045662A3 WO2001045662A3 (fr) 2002-07-04

Family

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2000/012653 WO2001045662A2 (fr) 1999-12-22 2000-12-13 Preparations cosmetiques de maquillage

Country Status (3)

Country Link
AU (1) AU3158301A (fr)
FR (1) FR2802807B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2001045662A2 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2007031139A1 (fr) * 2005-07-14 2007-03-22 Schwan-Stabilo Cosmetics Gmbh & Co. Kg Préparation, en particulier préparation cosmétique, procédé de production de ladite préparation et applications

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10232774B4 (de) * 2002-07-18 2004-07-15 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg Kosmetische Zubereitungen mit antibakteriellen Eigenschaften
GB0423652D0 (en) * 2004-10-25 2004-11-24 Univ Coventry Kit

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2664162A1 (fr) * 1990-07-04 1992-01-10 Clarins Composition cosmetique.
FR2685635A1 (fr) * 1991-12-27 1993-07-02 Lvmh Rech Particules solides complexes comprenant une substance solide biologiquement active, leur mode de preparation et compositions a usage topique les renfermant destinees au traitement de surfaces biologiques.
GB2309902A (en) * 1992-11-26 1997-08-13 Eladevi Shah Cosmetic composition containing ghee

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH1143425A (ja) * 1997-07-28 1999-02-16 Nippon Bio Kk 皮膚外用剤

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2664162A1 (fr) * 1990-07-04 1992-01-10 Clarins Composition cosmetique.
FR2685635A1 (fr) * 1991-12-27 1993-07-02 Lvmh Rech Particules solides complexes comprenant une substance solide biologiquement active, leur mode de preparation et compositions a usage topique les renfermant destinees au traitement de surfaces biologiques.
GB2309902A (en) * 1992-11-26 1997-08-13 Eladevi Shah Cosmetic composition containing ghee

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE WPI Week 199917 Derwent Publications Ltd., London, GB; AN 1999-198972 XP002147389 & JP 11 043425 A (NIPPON BIO KK) *
STN, Serveur de Bases de Données, Karlsruhe, DE, Fichier CAPLUS, AN=1997:475665 XP002147387 *
STN, Serveur de Bases de Données, Karlsruhe, DE, Fichier CAPLUS, AN=1997:654813 XP002147388 *

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2007031139A1 (fr) * 2005-07-14 2007-03-22 Schwan-Stabilo Cosmetics Gmbh & Co. Kg Préparation, en particulier préparation cosmétique, procédé de production de ladite préparation et applications
KR100975632B1 (ko) * 2005-07-14 2010-08-17 슈반-스타빌로 코스메틱스 게엠베하 운트 콤파니 카게 제제, 특히 화장품 제제, 이의 제조방법, 및 이의 용도

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AU3158301A (en) 2001-07-03
WO2001045662A3 (fr) 2002-07-04
FR2802807A1 (fr) 2001-06-29
FR2802807B1 (fr) 2002-09-27

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