WO2001022841A1

WO2001022841A1 - Method of producing squeezed garment and squeezed garment

Info

Publication number: WO2001022841A1
Application number: PCT/JP1999/005326
Authority: WO
Inventors: Tsuyoshi Kuno; Hideo Saito
Original assignee: Aramido Corporation
Priority date: 1999-09-29
Filing date: 1999-09-29
Publication date: 2001-04-05

Abstract

A method of producing a squeezed garment characterized by being provided with at least a squeezing process for partially squeezing with threads a dyed and sewn cloth at many locations, a shaping process including at least a steam set process for retaining the squeezed shape by exposing the cloth obtained through the squeezing process to steam, and a thread removing process subsequent to the shaping process for pulling off threads; and a squeezed garment produced by this method.

Description

Description Manufacturing method of drawing garment and drawing garment

The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing wrinkled clothing that forms wrinkles on a cloth by applying a wringing technique of “dye-dyeing” which is an ancient Japanese dyeing method, and to a wrinkled clothing. Background art

An ancient dyeing method in Japan is a technique called kimono dyeing of kimono. In this technique, the fabric is pinched by yarn, or the fabric is made to have an uneven shape called a wrinkle (grain) by an appropriate method to partially prevent the intrusion of the dyeing solution and then dye the fabric. Typical methods are Kanoko squeezing and Arimatsu squeezing.

The “squeezing” technique of the cloth used in the tie-dyeing technique has been transmitted as a special technique of pattern expression utilizing a difference in dyeing degree between a squeezed cloth part and a non-squeezed cloth part. is there.

Fig. 10 schematically shows the flow of the “squeezing process” of this “strain-dyeing” technology, which is characterized in that squeezing is performed before the dyeing process.

However, by applying the “squeezing” technology in the “strain-dyeing” technology described above and devising the shape of the squeezed shape intentionally, a new texture with various wrinkle (gather) shapes can be exhibited, and wrinkles can be formed. There is a possibility that clothing that fits the body as well as knitted fabric can be provided by making use of the elasticity of the fabric.

In addition, when fabrics are manufactured by using polyester fibers in fabric production using this “drawing” technology, dye transfer is likely to occur due to the steam heat of the drawing “forming process”. There is a problem that value may be lost.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to apply the “squeezing” technology in the “dyeing” technology. By providing a method for intentionally leaving a convex shape called a wrinkle on the garment as the final product, a method for reliably and stably producing a drawn garment having a desired form and color is provided. In addition, it is to provide a new draw garment with a unique form, elasticity, texture, and comfort. Disclosure of the invention

To achieve the above object, the following invention is adopted.

In the method for manufacturing squeezed clothing according to claim 1,

(1) The squeezing process, in which the dyed and sewn fabric is partially squeezed with yarn at many locations,

(2) a “forming step” that includes at least a “steam setting step” for exposing steam to the fabric obtained in the “drawing step” to maintain a drawn shape;

(3) a thread removing step of removing the thread after the “forming step”;

At least three steps consisting of

According to this manufacturing method, wrinkles (gathers) can be reliably and stably held and formed on the garment as the final product by the drawn shape formed in the “drawing step”. In the “drawing process”, a drawing method is considered in which the cloth is partially pinched in a mountain shape, and the foot portion is cut off with a thread. In this drawing method, many mountain-like wrinkles having relatively large uneven steps can be formed.

In the method for manufacturing a drawn garment according to claim 2, the "drawing step" described in claim 1 is performed by wrinkling (gearing) the cloth after performing a wave stitch with the sewing needle. To

According to this manufacturing method, fine wrinkles can be formed more densely than in the drawing method in which the cloth is partially confined with yarn, so that squeezed garments having morphological differentiation and a unique texture can be manufactured. it can.

In the method for manufacturing a drawn garment according to claim 3, the `` drawing step '' according to claim 1 or 2 is performed not in an oblique direction of the cloth but in a lateral direction. Form a first-order aperture.

According to this manufacturing method, the squeezing is sequentially formed so as to proceed in the left-right direction of the fabric. Because the molding process does not cause distortion or warpage, the clothes are flattened, easy to organize and align, and are convenient for transportation and storage, as well as in all directions. Because it expands and contracts particularly in the left and right directions, it is possible to manufacture comfortable drawn clothing.

In the method for manufacturing a drawing garment according to claim 4, the cloth comprising a cationic polyester which is printed and dyed with a dispersion-type cationic dye via a gum paste is sewn, and the cloth is sewn. I'll put it on.

According to this manufacturing method, the dye sublimation from the dark-colored portion to the light-colored portion of the fabric on which the pattern is formed by the print dyeing can be effectively prevented. Manufacture of squeezed clothing with a clear pattern that does not cause color transfer can be performed.

In the method for producing a drawn garment according to claim 5, in the case where the cloth according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is formed of natural fibers, the “forming step” is performed by a steam setting. It consists only of steps. Further, in the method for producing a drawn garment according to claim 6, when forming the fabric described in any one of claims 1 to 3 from wool, the drawn shape is retained. As for the “forming step”, the steps of solution immersion, drying, and steam setting will be performed sequentially. Claims In the method for manufacturing a drawn garment according to claim 7, when the fabric described in any one of claims 1 to 3 is formed of cotton or hemp, the drawn shape is maintained. For the “molding step”, the steps of dipping in a solution, washing with water, neutralization, and drying are sequentially performed.

According to the method for producing a drawn garment according to claims 5 to 7, even when using a fabric formed of various natural fiber materials, it can be stiff and soft. Can be formed.

Since the drawing garment according to claim 8 is formed by the method for manufacturing a drawing garment according to any one of claims 1 to 7, a large number of dyed and sewn cloths are used. It has a large number of wrinkles that maintain the shape of the aperture formed by being partially apertured at the location.

This squeezed garment maintains its unique uneven shape, and can be washed with cold water. The shape does not collapse. In addition, it has a soft kimono texture and is rich in elasticity. Furthermore, the squeezed garment is in a reduced state before being worn, so it is convenient to carry. And the drawn garment formed by the manufacturing method described in claim 4 can form a patterned pattern without migration and sublimation of dye, and therefore has a very high commercial value. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

FIG. 1 is a diagram simply showing the flow of the manufacturing process of the “method for producing drawn clothing” according to the present invention.

Fig. 2 (A) shows the state of the garment after the "forming step" (before the thread-drawing step) in the manufacturing process, and Fig. 2 (B) shows the garment formed by tying it with the yarn of the garment ( FIG. 3 is an enlarged view of a drawn portion (formed by the “stringing method”).

FIG. 3 is a view simply showing a flow of a “forming step” of the synthetic fiber fabric in the manufacturing process.

FIG. 4 is a diagram simply showing the flow of the “forming step” in the case of a natural fiber fabric, and FIG. 4 (A) shows the “forming step” that can be adopted in the case of silk, cotton or hemp fabric. The figure (B) shows the flow of the “forming process” that can be adopted in the case of a wool fabric, and the figure (C) shows the flow of a cotton or hemp fabric. Fig. 3 is a diagram showing a flow of a "forming process" that can be adopted.

FIG. 5 is a diagram simply showing a flow of a “print dyeing process” that can be adopted in the manufacturing process.

FIG. 6 (A) is a diagram showing the state of the squeezed garment, which is the final product obtained by the manufacturing process of the “method for producing squeezed garment” according to the present invention, and FIG. 4 (B) is a drawing of the squeezed garment. It is a figure which expands and shows a shape (state after thread removal).

FIGS. 7 (A) to 7 (D) are diagrams each showing a simplified flow of the second embodiment of the “drawing process” in the manufacturing process.

FIG. 8 is a view showing a state of a drawn shape formed by a “drawing step” by a “wave sewing method” according to a second embodiment.

Fig. 9 shows a drawing garment made using fabric dyed with polka dots. It is a figure showing a mode of transfer sublimation of a dye.

Fig. 10 is a diagram simply showing the flow of the "squeezing process" of the "dye-dyeing" technology, which is an ancient dyeing method in Japan. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

First, the manufacturing process of the “method of manufacturing drawn garment” according to the present invention will be briefly described with reference to FIGS.

A cloth made of a synthetic fiber such as polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, nylon fiber or the like or a natural fiber such as silk, hemp, cotton, wool (wool) is appropriately selected, and after dyeing with a suitable dye, the cloth is formed into a desired garment shape. Cut to pattern 1 so that it conforms to and sew.

The sewn cloth 2 needs to be formed in a considerably large size in consideration of the fact that the final product obtained from the present manufacturing process is a drawn garment 4 having a large number of wrinkles (squeezing) 5. There is.

Next, a part of the sewn cloth 2 is picked up and pulled up in a mountain shape, and the skirt portion is tied up with a thread and tightly tightened to form a wrinkle 5a (hereinafter referred to as a “thread tying method”). The drawing operation is performed continuously by freehand (see FIG. 2 (B)), and wrinkles 5a are formed on the entire surface of the sewn cloth 2 (hereinafter, this step is referred to as “drawing step”. In the “process,” it is desirable to form the wrinkles 5 a not in the diagonal direction but in the horizontal direction (the X direction shown in FIGS. 2 (A) and 6 (A)) with respect to the fabric 2. The reason is that by forming wrinkles 5 a so as to progress in the left-right direction of the cloth 2, the tension applied to the cloth 2 is formed evenly in the left-right direction (X direction), and the drawn clothes 4 as the final product are distorted. This is because the occurrence of warpage can be prevented.

That is, by forming the squeezing in the left and right direction, the squeezed garment 4, which is the final product, is finished in a flat shape, so that it can be easily arranged and aligned, which is very convenient for transportation and storage. Furthermore, the formation of the wrinkles 5a in the left-right direction allows the drawn garment 4, which is the final product, to have uniform elasticity in the left-right direction, which is very good in terms of comfort.

Here, as the drawing technique in the “drawing step”, the present inventor proposes a method shown in FIG. 7 (hereinafter referred to as “wave sewing method”) in addition to the above “thread squeezing method” (see FIG. 2). ) Was devised.

"Wave sewing", which can also be called a second embodiment of the drawing method, is based on the following. First, a cloth is sewn to an appropriate length by a thread 6 inserted into a needle hole of a sewing needle 7 (FIG. 7). (See (A)), and gather in a certain direction (opposite to the wave stitching direction) to form wrinkles 5b (see Fig. 7 (B)).

According to the “wave sewing method”, as shown in FIG. 8, a large number of fine wrinkles can be formed densely, so that it is possible to provide a drawn garment having a unique texture and shape different from the above “thread squeezing method”. However, morphological differentiation can be achieved (see Fig. 8).

Next, in the above-described “drawing step”, when the formation of the wrinkles 5 a or 5 w on the entire surface of the sewn fabric 2 is completed by any of the “thread squeezing method” or the “wave sewing method”, the wrinkles 5 a In order to maintain the shape of 5b and 5b in the final product, that is, to perform the “forming process” (to be described later) for fixing the drawing shape.

Then, after the “forming step”, all the yarns 6 that have retained the drawn shape are removed (the “thread removing step”) to obtain drawn clothing 4 as a final product.

Hereinafter, referring mainly to FIGS. 3 and 4, regarding the “dyeing step” and “molding step” in the above manufacturing process, the case where the synthetic fiber is plain-dyed and the case where the synthetic fiber is print-dyed) I will explain separately.

("Dyeing process" and "Molding process" for plain dyeing of synthetic fibers)

The “dyeing step” in the case of using a fabric obtained by “solid-color dyeing” (dying with a single color) thermoplastic synthetic fibers such as polyethylene and nylon is performed by a generally used dyeing method.

The “forming step”, which is performed after the “dyeing step” and after the “drawing step”, is roughly divided into a “steam setting step” and a “drying step” (see FIG. 3). First, the “steam setting step” is performed by wrapping the whole drawn cloth 3 having passed through the “squeezing step” in paper, wrapping the whole with a film of polyethylene or the like from above, and throwing it into a steam pot (not shown).

The steam temperature of the steam pot is set at 125 ° C. to 135 ° C., more preferably 130 ° C., and the steam is continuously exposed to the fabric for 15 to 20 minutes. Thereafter, it is preferable that the cloth is sufficiently cooled, the cloth is taken out from the steam pot, and air-dried or tumbled. The tumbler drying refers to a technique of drying a fabric by heating while rotating the fabric.

(“Dyeing step” and “Molding step” in the case of print dyeing on synthetic fibers) Next, in the case where a pattern is formed by performing print dyeing on a fabric made of thermoplastic synthetic fiber, the “dyeing step” is used. It is necessary to further devise various conditions in. The reason for this is that in the case of print-dyed patterned fabrics, the transfer (sublimation) of dyes occurs due to the heat (steam) of the “steam setting process” in the “molding process” and the pattern pattern is impaired. It is necessary to prevent this effectively. The term “transfer sublimation” refers to a phenomenon in which a darker dye is dissolved and transferred to a lighter-colored fabric portion by heat treatment or the like.

Here, Fig. 9 shows migration sublimation in the sewn garment 4 printed and dyed in a polka dot pattern, with the dye being transferred from the surrounding dark color part to the light polka dot part 9 as an example. The state of the fabric is simply expressed. In FIG. 9, wrinkles 5a formed by the above-described “thread squeezing method” are formed.

Specifically, the state of transfer sublimation is described as follows. The surrounding dark dye is transferred to the polka dot pattern portion 7 which is formed by print dyeing on the fabric and is lighter than the surrounding region, as indicated by reference numeral 8. Stain-like stains have occurred. Such stains impair the beauty of a patterned pattern such as a polka dot pattern, and thus reduce the commercial value of the squeezed garment 4.

In order to effectively prevent such transfer and sublimation of dyes, the inventor of the present application has been conducting experiments for setting suitable conditions for the print dyeing process for many years.

As a result, as shown in Fig. 5, the "printing and dyeing process" is composed of four steps: a "printing process", a "steaming process", a "washing process", and a "rearranging process". Print dyeing using cationic dyeable polyester That power turned out to be optimal.

More specifically, in this print dyeing process, a screen of 2000 mesh is used, and a hard (H) type of scaffold (spatula) is used for scratching the screen. As the dye, a dispersion type cationic dye is used, and as the paste, a gum type is used. In the “steaming process”, the steam temperature is set at 115 ° C to 125 ° C, particularly preferably at 120 ° C, using an HT continuous steamer in the steam pot, Be sure to perform 0 minute steam exposure.

In the subsequent “water washing step”, soda ash (“Rackor PSK” manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) is particularly suitable, instead of an anion-based cleaning agent, specifically, an alkali detergent as generally used. ), Followed by water washing followed by hot water washing (temperature 60 ° C), and reduction washing takes about 4 hours.

This reduction washing completely removes the paste used in print dyeing. The washing time is finely adjusted according to the color and pattern of the fabric.

In the next “arrangement process”, the use of only an antistatic agent (for example, “Nice Pole PF85” manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) without the use of a softener or other chemical Dry for 1 minute at a temperature of ° C and set.

It was confirmed that this method can effectively prevent the dye transfer sublimation phenomenon in the “steam setting step” in the subsequent “molding step”.

From the above experiment, the inventor of the present application has concluded that the following technical items (1) to (3) are important points for effectively preventing the transfer and sublimation of dye in a print-dyed cationic dyeable polyester fabric. It was found to be particularly important.

(1) Make efforts to minimize the size of the glue layer in the print dyeing process.

(2) The steam exposure conditions in the “steaming process” in the print dyeing process shall be the above conditions.

(3) In the “washing process” of the print dyeing process, the glue must be completely removed with a soap pin.

Subsequently, the above-mentioned “forming step” in the case of using a fabric formed of “natural fibers” will be described mainly with reference to FIGS. 4 (A) to 4 (C). When using silk fabric, as in the case of the synthetic fiber described above, after the “drawing process”, the drawn fabric 3 (see FIG. 1) is transferred to the “forming process” and the “steaming process” is performed. (See Fig. 4 (A)).

In this case, the “steam setting step” is performed at a steam temperature of 135 to 144 ° C., preferably 140 ° C., for 10 to 15 minutes. Then, the subsequent “drying process” is omitted, and the process proceeds to the thread removal process.

By employing such a method, the silk garment 4 as a final product can be provided with a comfortable and soft texture.

Next, when using a wool (wool) fabric, the drawing process 3 is followed by the drawing process, and then the drawn fabric 3 is mixed with a 5 to 7% solution of monoethanol bisulfite at room temperature (Meisei Chemical Co., Ltd.). “Monamin BTN” manufactured by Kogyo Co., Ltd. is particularly suitable.) After being subjected to a pre-treatment consisting of a method of immersing in water and drying at a temperature of 70 to 80 ° C. Then, the process moves to the “molding process” and the “steam setting process” (see Fig. 4 (B)). In this case, the “steam setting step” is preferably performed at a steam temperature of 115 to 125 ° C., preferably 120 ° C. for about 15 minutes.

When using a cotton or linen fabric, the “closing step” is performed by the “steam setting step” similar to the above-described cotton and linen cloth, so that the drawn garment 4 having a good texture can be formed.

Also, in the case of cotton or hemp fabric, a "forming step" without performing the "steam setting step" could be devised. That is, after immersing in a sodium hydroxide solution of volume 40 for 5 to 6 minutes, rinsing with running water for 60 minutes or more, and neutralizing with a 3% acetic acid solution for 10 to 15 minutes And drying (see Fig. 4 (C)). The washing in the "forming step" is particularly preferably performed under running water, since color unevenness caused by rubbing of the fabric can be effectively prevented.

As described above, in the method for manufacturing drawn garments according to the present invention, in addition to being able to cope with fabrics of various materials, even in the case of patterned fabrics by print dyeing, there is no concern about transfer sublimation of dyes. The drawing can be performed with ease. In addition, according to the method for manufacturing a drawing garment according to the present invention, wrinkles 5 can be reliably formed on a synthetic fiber or natural fiber cloth, and a soft and comfortable squeezing cloth can be formed. Clothing can be provided. Industrial applicability

As is apparent from the above description, according to the method for manufacturing a drawn garment described in claims 1 or 2, the drawn shape formed in the "drawing step" is changed to a predetermined "forming step". Thereby, desired wrinkles (gathers) can be reliably and stably formed on the garment as the final product.

In addition, by devising the drawing method such as the "thread squeezing method" or "wave sewing method" and further devising the drawing density and the degree of drawing, it is possible to form morphologically differentiated wrinkles on clothes. The product can be diversified.

In addition, as in the manufacturing method described in claim 3, if the squeezing is formed so as to advance in the left-right direction of the fabric, distortion and warpage occur due to the “forming step”. The squeezed garment becomes flatter, making it easier to organize and align it, making it easier to transport and store, as well as making it comfortable to expand and contract evenly in the vertical and horizontal directions. Good drawing garments can be manufactured.

Further, as in the production method described in claim 4, a cloth made of a cationic dyeable polyester, which is printed and dyed with a dispersion type cationic dye via a gum paste, is sewn, and “ Process, it is possible to effectively prevent the dye from subliming and subliming from the dark to the light-colored parts of the fabric on which the pattern is formed by print dyeing. A vivid pattern with no color transfer that looks dirty can be formed on drawn clothing.

In the case of using a fabric made of natural fiber, if it is devised as in the manufacturing method described in any one of claims 5 to 7, a squeezed garment with a soft texture that does not become stiff can be obtained. It can be formed reliably.

As described above, according to the method for manufacturing the drawing garment according to the present invention, the comfortable fit that fits a variety of body types due to a form having a unique uneven shape and uniform elasticity without distortion or warpage. Since the present invention can provide a new differentiated squeezed garment having a soft texture, a clear pattern, and the like, it can widely contribute to the development of the textile, dyeing, clothing, fashion industries, and the like.

Claims

The scope of the claims

1. The "squeezing process" in which the dyed and sewn fabric is partially squeezed using threads at a number of locations;

A "forming step" comprising at least a steam setting step of exposing steam to the fabric obtained by the "drawing step" to maintain a drawn shape;

After the “forming step”, the yarn is removed.

A method for producing a drawing garment, comprising at least:

2. A method for manufacturing drawn clothes, wherein the "drawing step" according to claim 1 is performed by waving the cloth with a sewing needle and then wrinkling (gathering).

3. A method for producing a drawing garment, wherein a drawing is sequentially formed in the “drawing step” according to claim 1 or 2 so as to proceed in the left-right direction of the cloth.

4. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that a fabric made of a cationic dyeable polyester, which is printed and dyed with a dispersion type cationic dye via a gum paste, is sewn and then subjected to the "squeezing step". 4. The method for producing squeezed clothing according to any one of items 3 to 3.

5. The squeeze according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, when the fabric is formed from natural fibers, the "forming step" comprises only a "steam setting step". Clothing manufacturing method.

6. In the case where the cloth is formed of wool (wool), the "forming step" for maintaining the drawn shape is performed in the order of solution immersion, drying, and steam setting. 4. The method for producing a squeezed garment according to any one of paragraphs 1 to 3.

7. In the case where the fabric is formed of cotton or hemp, the "forming step" for maintaining the drawn shape is such that solution immersion, water washing, neutralization, and drying are sequentially performed. 4. The method for producing a squeezed garment according to any one of Items 1 to 3.

8. The dyed and sewn cloth is partially squeezed at a number of places by the method for manufacturing a drawn garment according to any one of claims 1 to 7, and the drawn shape is maintained. Squeeze clothes with many wrinkles.