WO2000069404A1 - Methods for regulating the condition of mammalian keratinous tissue via topical application of phytosterol compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to methods for regulating the condition of mammalian keratinous tissue wherein the methods comprise the step of topically applying to the keratinous tissue of a mammal needing such treatment, a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising: a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spinasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof; and b) a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the phytosterol. In additional embodiments, the above composition is suitable for thickening skin and preventing, retarding, and/or treating atrophy of mammalian skin, preventing, retarding, and/or treating the appearance of dark, under-eye circles and/or puffy eyes, preventing, retarding, and/or treating sallowness of mammalian skin, preventing and/or retarding tanning of mammalian skin, regulating and/or reducing the size of pores in mammalian skin, desquamating, exfoliating, and/or increasing turnover of mammalian skin, regulating oily/shiny appearance, preventing/retarding post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in mammalian skin, and preventing and/or treating the appearance of cellulite in mammalian skin.

Description

METHODS FOR REGULATING THE CONDITION

OF MAMMALIAN KERATINOUS TISSUE VIA

TOPICAL APPLICATION OF PHYTOSTEROL COMPOSITIONS

Cross Reference to Related Application

This application claims the benefit of U.S Provisional Application No 60/134,397, filed May 17, 1999.

Technical Field

The present invention relates to methods of regulating the condition of mammalian keratinous tissue using defined phytosterols wherein the methods include, a) thickening skin and preventmg, retarding, and/or treating atrophy m mammalian skin, b) preventing, retarding, and/or treating the appearance of dark, under-eye circles and puffy eyes, c) preventing, retarding, and/or treating sallowness of mammalian skm, d) preventing and/or retarding tanning of mammalian skm, e) desquamating, exfoliating, and/or increasing turnover of mammalian skin, f) regulating and/or reducing the size of pores in mammalian skin, g) regulating the oily and/or shmy appearance of mammalian skin, h) preventing, retarding, and/or treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and l) preventing and/or treating the appearance of cellulite m mammalian skm These methods are accomplished via the topical application of compositions containing specific phytosterols to the skm of a mammal needmg such treatments.

Background of the Invention

Currently, there are a number of personal care products that are available to consumers, which are directed toward improving the health and physical appearance of keratmous tissues such as the skin, hair, and nails. The majority of these products are directed to delaying, minimizing or even eliminating skm wrinkling and other histological changes typically associated with the aging of skm or environmental damage to human skin.

Mammalian keratinous tissue, particularly human skin, is subjected to a variety of msults by both extrinsic and intrinsic factors Such extrinsic factors include ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, wmd, heat, infrared radiation, low humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, etc. Intrinsic factors, on the other hand, include chronological aging and other biochemical changes from within the skm Whether extrinsic or intrinsic, these factors result in visible signs of skin damage Typical skin damage includes thinning of the skin, which occurs naturally as one ages With such thinning, there is a reduction in the cells and blood vessels that supply the skin as well as a flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction that results in weaker mechanical resistance of this junction. See, for example, Oikaπnen, "The Agmg of Skin Chronoagmg Versus Photoagmg," Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed , vol 7, pp. 3-4, 1990 Other damage or changes seen in agmg or damaged skin includes sallowness, sagging, dark, under-eye circles, puffy eyes, enlarged pores, diminished rate of turnover, and abnormal desquamation or exfoliation Additional damage incurred as a result of both external and internal factors mcludes visible dead skm (1 e , flaking, scaling, dryness)

Therefore, there is a need for products and methods that seek to remedy these keratmous tissue conditions such that the conditions of keratinous tissues are regulated

Without being limited by theory, it has been found that certain phytosterols can stabilize cellular and extracellular components of keratinous tissue, particularly the outer cell membranes as well as membranes of various organelles The phytosterol treated cells become stronger, more resistant, and are able to withstand higher levels of the above-described insults

Consequently, Applicants have surprisingly found that topical compositions that contain specific phytosterols may be used to provide prophylactic as well as therapeutic treatments for keratinous tissue conditions For instance, Applicants have found that such compositions may be useful for treating atrophy of the skin as well as sallowness, spider vessels, dark, under-eye circles, puffy eyes, promoting skin desquamation, exfoliation, and/or turnover, regulating and/or reducing pore size appearance, preventmg/retarding tanmng, regulating oily/shiny appearance, preventing/retarding post-mflammatory hyperpigmentation m mammalian skm, and preventing and/or treating the appearance of cellulite in mammalian skin

Summary of the Invention

The present invention relates to methods for regulating the condition of mammalian keratmous tissue wherein the methods each comprise the step of topically applying to the keratinous tissue of a mammal needing such treatment, a safe and effective amount of a composition compπsmg a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consistmg of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spmasterol, stigmasterol, their deπvatives, and combinations thereof, and b) a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the phytosterol

In additional embodiments, the above composition is suitable for thickening skin and preventing, retarding, and/or treating atrophy of mammalian skin, preventing, retarding, and/or treating the appearance of dark, under-eye circles and puffy eyes, preventmg, retarding, and/or treating sallowness of mammalian skm, preventing and/or retarding tanning of mammalian skin, desquamating, exfoliating, or mcreasing the turnover of mammalian skin, regulating and/or reducing the size of pores in mammalian skm, regulating oily/shmy appearance of mammalian skin, preventing, retardmg, and/or treatmg post-mflammatory hyperpigmentation, and preventmg and/or treating the appearance of cellulite in mammalian skin

Detailed Description of the Invention

All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition and all measurements made are at 25 C, unless otherwise designated

The compositions of the present invention can comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of, the essential components as well as optional ingredients described herein As used herein, "consisting essentially of means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods

All publications cited herem are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.

The term "keratmous tissue," as used herem, refers to keratm-containing layers disposed as the outermost protective covering of mammals which includes, but is not limited to, skin, hair, toenails, fingernails, cuticles, hooves, etc .

The term "topical application", as used herein, means to apply or spread the compositions of the present invention onto the surface of the keratinous tissue.

The term "dermatologically acceptable," as used herein, means that the compositions or components thereof so described are suitable for use in contact with human keratinous tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.

The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein means an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to significantly induce a positive benefit, preferably a positive keratinous tissue appearance or feel benefit, including independently or in combinations the benefits disclosed herein, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to risk ratio, within the scope of sound judgment of the skilled artisan.

The term "post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation" as used herein refers to the changes in melanin content as a response to an inflammatory event (e.g , acne, scratch, insect sting, sunburn, etc), especially in dark skm subjects.

The terms "desquamation, exfoliation, and/or increasing turnover" as used herein mean the removal of the upper layers of the stratum corneum (compπsmg the horny and granular layers) Without intendmg to be limited by theory, it is believed that these benefits may be accomplished via chemical and physical means that remove these layers from the top down Additionally, it is possible to elicit exfoliation via a biological means that drives the turnover of the epidermal layers from the basal layers upwards. It is believed that this involves the process of keratinocyte proliferation as well as induction of differentiation. The latter leads to an elevation in keratinization levels as well, which ultimately lead to a reorganization of the upper epidermal layers that compπse the stratum corneum and stratum granular layers.

The terms "oily and/or shiny appearance" as used herem mean the glossy look mammalian skin tends to exhibit upon the excretion of oil, sebum, and/or sweat from the respective source gland.

The compositions of the present invention are useful for topical application and for regulating keratinous tissue condition Regulation of keratinous tissue condition, especially human skm condition, is often required due to conditions that may be induced or caused by factors internal and/or external to the body. For instance, "regulating skin condition" includes prophylactically regulating and/or therapeutically regulating skin condition, and may involve one or more of the following benefits: thickening of skm (i.e., building the epidermis and/or dermis layers of the skm and or the subcutaeous layers such as fat and muscle and where applicable the keratinous layers of the nail and hair shaft) to reduce skm atrophy, increasing the convolution of the dermal-epidermal border, non-melanin skin discoloration such as under eye circles, blotching (e g , uneven red coloration due to, e g , rosacea) (hereinafter referred to as "red blotchiness"), sallowness (pale color), discoloration caused by telangiectasia or spider vessels As used herein, prophylactically regulating skin condition mcludes delaymg, minimizing and/or preventing visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skm (e g , texture irregularities in the skm which may be detected visually or by feel) As used herein, therapeutically regulating skin condition includes ameliorating, e g , diminishing, minimizing and or effacing, discontinuities m skm Regulating skm condition involves improving skm appearance and/or feel

As used herein, "regulating skin condition" is intended to include regulation of such signs irrespective of the mechanism of oπgm

The compositions of the present invention, including the essential and optional components thereof, are described in detail hereinafter Phytosterol

The topical compositions of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5- avennasterol, lupenol, α-spinasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combmations thereof More preferably, the phytosterol is selected from the group consisting of β-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof Even more preferably, the phytosterol is selected from the group consisting of β-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, stigmasterol, and combinations thereof Most preferably, the phytosterol is stigmasterol

Phytosterols can be synthetic or natural m origin and can be used as essentially pure compounds or mixtures of compounds (e g , extracts from natural sources) Phytosterols are generally found m the unsaponifiable portion of vegetable oils and fats and are available as free sterols, acetylated derivatives, sterol esters, ethoxylated or glycosidic derivatives More preferably, the phytosterols are free sterols As used herein, "phytosterol" mcludes isomers and tautomers of such and is commercially available from Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wisconsin), Sigma Chemical Company (St Louis, Missouri), and Fytokem Products, Inc (Saskatoon, SK, Canada)

In the compositions of the present invention, the phytosterol preferably comprises from about 0 01% to about 99 99%, by weight of the composition, more preferably from about 0 01% to about 50%, even more preferably from about 0 1% to about 20%, still more preferably from about 0 2% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 0 5% to about 10% Dermatologically Acceptable Carrier

The topical compositions of the present invention also comprise a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the phytosterol The phrase "dermatologically acceptable carrier", as used herein, means that the carrier is suitable for topical application to the keratmous tissue, has good aesthetic properties, is compatible with the actives of the present invention and any other components, and will not cause any safety or toxicity concerns A safe and effective amount of carrier is from about 50% to about 99 99%, preferably from about 80% to about 99 9%, more preferably from about 90% to about 98%, and most preferably from about 90% to about 95% of the composition

The carrier can be in a wide variety of forms For example, emulsion carriers, including, but not limited to, oil-in-water, water-in-oil, water-m-oil-in-water, and oil-in-water-in-sihcone emulsions, are useful herem

Preferred carriers comprise an emulsion such as oil-in-water emulsions and water-m-oil emulsions, e g , sihcone-m-water or water-in-si cone emulsions As will be understood by the skilled artisan, a given component will distribute primarily into either the water or oil phase, depending on the water solubility/dispensability of the component in the composition Phytosterol distributes primarily into the oil phase Oil-in-water emulsions are especially preferred

Emulsions according to the present mvention generally contain a solution as described above and a lipid or oil Lipids and oils may be derived from animals, plants, or petroleum and may be natural or synthetic (I e , man-made) Preferred emulsions also contain a humectant, such as glycerin Emulsions will preferably further contain from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of an emulsifier, based on the weight of the carrier Emulsifiers may be nomonic, anionic or cationic Suitable emulsifiers are disclosed in, for example, U S Patent 3,755,560, issued August 28, 1973, Dickert et al , U S Patent 4,421,769, issued December 20, 1983, Dixon et al , and McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition, pages 317-324 (1986)

The emulsion may also contain an anti-foaming agent to minimize foaming upon application to the keratmous tissue Anti-foammg agents include high molecular weight sihcones and other matenals well known m the art for such use

Suitable emulsions may have a wide range of viscosities, depending on the desired product form Exemplary low viscosity emulsions, which are preferred, have a viscosity of about 50 centistokes or less, more preferably about 10 centistokes or less, most preferably about 5 centistokes or less

Preferred water-in-sihcone and oil-in-water emulsions are described in greater detail below a} Water-in-silicone emulsion

Water-m-sihcone emulsions contain a continuous sihcone phase and a dispersed aqueous phase d) Continuous si cone phase

Preferred water- m-sihcone emulsions of the present invention comprise from about 1% to about 60%, preferably from about 5% to about 40%, more preferably from about 10% to about 20%, by weight of a continuous sihcone phase The continuous sihcone phase exists as an external phase that contains or suπounds the discontinuous aqueous phase described hereinafter

The continuous sihcone phase contains a polyorganosiloxane oil A preferred water-m-sihcone emulsion system is formulated to provide an oxidatively stable vehicle for an optional retinoid The continuous sihcone phase of these preferred emulsions comprises between about 50% and about 99 9% by weight of organopolysiloxane oil and less than about 50% by weight of a non-silicone oil In a preferred embodiment, the continuous sihcone phase comprises at least about 50%, preferably from about 60% to about 99 9%, more preferably from about 70% to about 99 9%, and even more preferably from about 80% to about 99 9%, polyorganosiloxane oil by weight of the continuous sihcone phase, and up to about 50% non-silicone oils, preferably less about 40%, more preferably less than about 30%, even more preferably less than about 10%, and most preferably less than about 2%, by weight of the continuous sihcone phase These prefeπed emulsion systems provide more oxidative stability to a retinoid over extended periods of time than comparable water-in-oil emulsions containing lower concentrations of the polyorganosiloxane oil Concentrations of non-silicone oils in the continuous sihcone phase are minimized or avoided altogether so as to further enhance oxidative stability of the selected retinoid in the compositions Water- m-sihcone emulsions of this type are described in copendmg U S Patent Application Serial No 08/570,275, filed December 11, 1995, in the names of Joseph Michael Zukowski, Brent William Mason, Larry Richard Robinson and Greg George Hillebrand

The organopolysiloxane oil for use m the composition may be volatile, non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones The term "nonvolatile" as used in this context refers to those silicones that are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under one atmospheric of pressure) of or greater than about 100°C The term "volatile" as used in this context refers to all other sihcone oils Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones spanning a broad range of volatilities and viscosities Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane oils include polyalkylsiloxanes, cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes

Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the composition herein mclude polyalkylsiloxanes with viscosities of from about 0 5 to about 1,000,000 centistokes at 25°C Such polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula R3SιO[R2SιO]_xSιR3 wherein R is an alkyl group having from one to about 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl, also mixed alkyl groups can be used in the same molecule), and x is an integer from 0 to about 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over about 10,000,000 Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include the polydimefhylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones, examples of which include the Vicasil® series sold by General Electric Company and the Dow Coming® 200 series sold by Dow Corning

Corporation Specific examples of suitable polydimefhylsiloxanes include Dow Corning® 200 fluid having a viscosity of 0 65 centistokes and a boiling point of 100°C, Dow Corning® 225 fluid havmg a viscosity of

10 centistokes and a boiling point greater than 200°C, and Dow Corning® 200 fluids having viscosities of 50, 350, and 12,500 centistokes, respectively, and boiling points greater than 200°C Suitable dimethicones include those represented by the chemical formula

(CH3)3SιO[(CH₃)2SιO]_χ[CH₃RSιO]_ySι(CH3)3 wherein R is straight or branched chain alkyl having from two to about 30 carbon atoms and x and y are each integers of 1 or greater selected to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over about 10,000,000 Examples of these alkyl-substituted dimethicones include cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone Cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for use in the composition include those represented by the chemical formula [SιR2-0]_n wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and n is an mteger from about 3 to about 8, more preferably n is an integer from about 3 to about 7, and most preferably n is an mteger from about 4 to about 6 When R is methyl, these materials are typically referred to as cyclomethicones Commercially available cyclomethicones include Dow Corning®

244 fluid having a viscosity of 2 5 centistokes, and a boiling point of 172°C, which primarily contains the cyclomethicone tetramer (I e n=4), Dow Corning® 344 fluid having a viscosity of 2 5 centistokes and a boiling point of 178°C, which primarily contains the cyclomethicone pentamer (l e n=5), Dow Coming®

245 fluid having a viscosity of 4 2 centistokes and a boiling point of 205°C, which primarily contams a mixture of the cyclomethicone tetramer and pentamer (I e n=4 and 5), and Dow Corning® 345 fluid having a viscosity of 4 5 centistokes and a boiling point of 217°, which primarily contains a mixture of the cyclomethicone tetramer, pentamer, and hexamer (l e n=4, 5, and 6)

Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysihcate, which is a polymeric material coπesponding to the general chemical formula [(CH2)3SιOι /2]_x[Sιθ2]y, wherein x is an integer from about 1 to about 500 and y is an integer from about 1 to about 500 A commercially available trimethylsiloxysihcate is sold as a mixture with dimethicone as Dow Coming® 593 fluid

Dimethiconols are also suitable for use m the composition These compounds can be represented by the chemical formulas R₃SιO[R2SιO]_χSιR₂OH and HOR₂SιO[R₂SιO]_xSιR2θH wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer from 0 to about 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e g Dow Commg® 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids)

Polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use in the composition Polymethylphenyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 15 to about 65 centistokes at 25°C are especially useful

Prefeπed for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones, cyclomethicones, tπmethylsiloxysihcates, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof More prefeπed for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones Prefeπed among the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones

As stated above, the continuous sihcone phase may contain one or more non-silicone oils Concentrations of non-silicone oils in the continuous sihcone phase are preferably minimized or avoided altogether so as to further enhance oxidative stability of any retmoids in the compositions Suitable non- sihcone oils have a melting point of about 25°C or less under about one atmosphere of pressure Examples of non-silicone oils suitable for use m the continuous sihcone phase are those well known m the chemical arts in topical personal care products in the form of water-m-oil emulsions, e g , mineral oil, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, semisynthetic oils, etc

(n) Dispersed aqueous phase The topical compositions of the present invention comprise from about 30% to about 90%, more preferably from about 50% to about 85%, and most preferably from about 70% to about 80% of a dispersed aqueous phase In emulsion technology, the term "dispersed phase" is a term well-known to one skilled m the art which means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets that are suspended in and surrounded by a continuous phase The dispersed phase is also known as the internal or discontinuous phase The dispersed aqueous phase is a dispersion of small aqueous particles or droplets suspended in and suπounded by the continuous sihcone phase described hereinbefore

The aqueous phase can be water, or a combination of water and one or more water soluble or dispersible ingredients Nonlimitmg examples of such optional ingredients mclude thickeners, acids, bases, salts, chelants, gums, water-soluble or dispersible alcohols and polyols, buffers, preservatives, sunscreemng agents, colorings, and the like

The topical compositions of the present invention will typically comprise from about 25% to about 90%, preferably from about 40% to about 80%, more preferably from about 60% to about 80%, water in the dispersed aqueous phase by weight of the composition

(in) Emulsifier for dispersing the aqueous phase The water-in-sihcone emulsions of the present invention preferably comprise an emulsifier In a prefeπed embodiment, the composition contains from about 0 1% to about 10% emulsifier, more preferably from about 0 5% to about 7 5%, most preferably from about 1% to about 5%, emulsifier by weight of the composition The emulsifier helps disperse and suspend the aqueous phase within the continuous sihcone phase

A wide variety of emulsifying agents can be employed herein to form the preferred water- ln-sihcone emulsion Known or conventional emulsifying agents can be used in the composition, provided that the selected emulsifying agent is chemically and physically compatible with essential components of the composition, and provides the desired dispersion characteristics Suitable emulsifiers include sihcone emulsifiers, non-sihcon-containing emulsifiers, and mixtures thereof, known by those skilled m the art for use in topical personal care products Preferably these emulsifiers have an HLB value of or less than about 14, more preferably from about 2 to about 14, and most preferably from about 4 to about 14 Emulsifiers having an HLB value outside of these ranges can be used in combination with other emulsifiers to achieve an effective weighted average HLB for the combination that falls within these ranges

Sihcone emulsifiers are prefeπed A wide variety of sihcone emulsifiers are useful herein These sihcone emulsifiers are typically organically modified organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled in the art as sihcone surfactants Useful sihcone emulsifiers include dimethicone copolyols These materials are polydimethylsiloxanes that have been modified to mclude polyether side chains such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains, and polyether chains containing moieties derived from both ethylene oxide and propylene oxide Other examples include alkyl-modified dimethicone copolyols, I e , compounds that contain C2-C30 pendant side chains Still other useful dimethicone copolyols include materials having various cationic, anionic, amphotenc, and zwitteπonic pendant moieties

The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein can be described by the following general structure

wherein R is C1-C30 straight, branched, or cyclic alkyl and R^ is selected from the group consistmg of

-(CH₂)_n-0-(CH₂CHR3θ)_m-H, and

-(CH₂)_n~0~(CH₂CHR³0)_m-(CH₂CHR⁴0)₀-H, wherein n is an mteger from 3 to about 10, R-> and R⁴ are selected from the group consisting of H and Cl-

C6 straight or branched chain alkyl such that R³ and R⁴ are not simultaneously the same, and m, o, x, and y are selected such that the molecule has an overall molecular weight from about 200 to about 10,000,000, with m, o, x, and y being independently selected from integers of zero or greater such that m and o are not both simultaneously zero, and z being mdependently selected from mtegers of 1 or greater It is recognized that positional isomers of these copolyols can be achieved The chemical representations depicted above for the R² moieties containing the R-⁵ and R⁴ groups are not meant to be limiting but are shown as such for convenience

Also useful herein, although not strictly classified as dimethicone copolyols, are sihcone surfactants as depicted m the structures in the previous paragraph wherein R^ is -(CH₂)_n-0-R5, wherem R^ is a cationic, anionic, amphotenc, or zwitteriomc moiety

Nonlimitmg examples of dimethicone copolyols and other sihcone surfactants useful as emulsifiers herein include polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant polyethylene oxide side chams, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant polypropylene oxide side chams, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixed polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixed poly(ethylene)(propylene)oxιde side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant organobetaine side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant carboxylate side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant quaternary ammonium side chains, and also further modifications of the preceding copolymers containing pendant C2-C30 straight, branched, or cyclic alkyl moieties Examples of commercially available dimethicone copolyols useful herem sold by Dow Coming Corporation are Dow Coming® 190, 193, Q2-5220, 2501 Wax, 2-5324 fluid, and 3225C (this latter material bemg sold as a mixture with cyclomethicone) Cetyl dimethicone copolyol is commercially available as a mixture with polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate and is sold under the tradename ABIL® WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt) Cetyl dimethicone copolyol is also commercially available as a mixture with hexyl laurate (and) polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) cetyl dimethicone and is sold under the tradename ABIL® WS-08 (also available from Goldschmidt) Other nonlimitmg examples of dimethicone copolyols also include lauryl dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol acetate, diemethicone copolyol adipate, dimethicone copolyolamine, dimethicone copolyol behenate, dimethicone copolyol butyl ether, dimethicone copolyol hydroxy stearate, dimethicone copolyol isostearate, dimethicone copolyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol methyl ether, dimethicone copolyol phosphate, and dimethicone copolyol stearate See International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993

Dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein are described, for example, in U S Patent No 4,960,764, to Figueroa, Jr et al , issued October 2, 1990, European Patent No EP 330,369, to Sanoguerra, published August 30, 1989, G H Dah s, et al , "New Formulation Possibilities Offered by Sihcone Copolyols," Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol 110, pp 91-100, March 1995, M E Carlotti et al , "Optimization of W/O-S Emulsions And Study Of The Quantitative Relationships Between Ester Structure And Emulsion Properties," J Dispersion Science And Technology, 13(3), 315-336 (1992), P Hameyer, "Comparative Technological Investigations of Organic and Organosihcone Emulsifiers m Cosmetic Water-m-Oil Emulsion Preparations," HAPPI 28(4), pp 88-128 (1991), J Smid-Korbar et al , "Efficiency and usability of sihcone surfactants in emulsions," Provisional Communication. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 12, 135-139 (1990), and D G Krzysik et al , "A New Sihcone Emulsifier For Water-m-Oil Systems," Drug and Cosmetic Industry, vol 146(4), pp 28-81 (April 1990)

Among the non-silicone-containmg emulsifiers useful herein are various non-ionic and anionic emulsifying agents such as sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1-C30 fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1-C30 fatty acids, Cl- C30 esters of polyols, C1-C30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, and mixtures thereof Other suitable emulsifiers are described, for example, m McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation, U S Patent No 5,011,681 to Ciotti et al , issued April 30, 1991, U S Patent No 4,421,769 to Dixon et al , issued December 20, 1983, and U S Patent No 3,755,560 to Dickert et al , issued August 28, 1973

Nonlimitmg examples of these non-sihcon-containing emulsifiers include polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG- 100 stearate, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan tπoleate (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, PEG- 100 stearate, and mixtures thereof. b Oil-in-Water Emulsions

Other prefeπed topical earners include oil-in-water emulsions, having a continuous aqueous phase and a hydrophobic, water-msoluble phase ("oil phase") dispersed therein Examples of suitable earners comprising oil-in-water emulsions are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,371, to Turner, D J. et al., issued Dec. 17, 1991, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372, to Turner, D.J. et al., issued Dec 17, 1991. An especially prefeπed oil-in-water emulsion, containing a stmcturmg agent, hydrophihc surfactant and water, is described m detail hereinafter. d) Structuring Agent

A prefeπed oil-in-water emulsion comprises a stmcturmg agent to assist in the formation of a liquid crystalline gel network stmcture Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the structuring agent assists m providing rheological characteristics to the composition that contribute to the stability of the composition. The stmcturmg agent may also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Prefeπed compositions of this invention comprise from about 0.5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of a structunng agent.

The prefeπed structuring agents of the present invention are selected from the group consistmg of steaπc acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steaπc acid, palmitic acid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. More prefeπed stmcturmg agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2), the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 21 ethylene oxide units (steareth-21), the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Even more prefeπed structuring agents are selected from the group consisting of steaπc acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-2, steareth-21, and mixtures thereof. (n) Hydrophihc surfactant

The prefeπed oil-m-water emulsions comprise from about 0 05% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 6%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 3% of at least one hydrophihc surfactant which can disperse the hydrophobic materials m the water phase (percentages by weight of the topical earner) The surfactant, at a minimum, must be hydrophihc enough to disperse in water.

Suitable surfactants include any of a wide variety of known cationic, anionic, zwitteπonic, and amphotenc surfactants See, McCutcheon's. Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; U.S Patent 5,011,681, U.S. Patent 4,421,769; and U.S Patent 3,755,560, these references are incorporated herein by reference m their entirety.

The exact surfactant chosen will depend upon the pH of the composition and the other components present.

Prefeπed are cationic surfactants, especially dialkyl quaternary ammonium compounds, examples of which are described m U.S. Patent 5,151,209; U.S. Patent 5,151,210; U.S. Patent 5,120,532, U.S. Patent 4,387,090; U.S. Patent 3,155,591, U.S. Patent 3,929,678; U.S. Patent 3,959,461; McCutcheon's. Detergents & Emulsifiers. (North American edition 1979) M C Publishing Co., and Schwartz, et al., Surface Active Agents. Their Chemistry and Technology, New York: Interscience Publishers, 1949; which descriptions are incorporated herein by reference. The cationic surfactants useful herein mclude catiomc ammonium salts such as those having the formula:

R₂— N— R₃ R4 wherein R_j, is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic, aryl or alkaryl group having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms; R2, R3, and R4 are independently selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group hav g from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms, or aromatic, aryl or alkaryl groups havmg from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms; and X is any compatible amon, preferably selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide, iodide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tosylate, lactate, citrate, glycolate, and mixtures thereof. Additionally, the alkyl groups of R_j ,

R2, R3, and R4 can also contain ester and/or ether linkages, or hydroxy or amino group substituents (e.g., the alkyl groups can contain polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol moieties)

More preferably, R_j is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, R2 is selected from H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms; R3 and R4 are independently selected from H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X is as described previously.

Most preferably, R1 is an alkyl group havmg from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms; R2, R3, and

R4 are selected from H or an alkyl group havmg from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X is as described previously.

Alternatively, other useful cationic emulsifiers mclude ammo-amides, wherein m the above stmcture R1 is alternatively R5CONH-(CH2)_n, wherein R5 is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about

22 carbon atoms, and n is an integer from about 2 to about 6, more preferably from about 2 to about 4, and most preferably from about 2 to about 3 Nonlimitmg examples of these cationic emulsifiers include stearamidopropyl PG-dimonmm chloride phosphate, behenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl (mynstyl acetate) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammomum tosylate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium lactate, and mixtures thereof Especially prefeπed is behenarmdopropyl PG dimonium chloride

Nonlimitmg examples of quaternary ammomum salt catiomc surfactants mclude those selected from the group consisting of cetyl ammomum chloride, cetyl ammonium bromide, lauryl ammomum chloride, lauryl ammonium bromide, stearyl ammonium chloride, stearyl ammonium bromide, cetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyl dimethyl ammomum chloride, stearyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, cetyl tπmethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl tnmethyl ammomum bromide, lauryl tπmethyl ammomum chloride, lauryl tnmethyl ammomum bromide, stearyl tnmethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl tnmethyl ammonium brormde, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl cetyl ditallow dimethyl ammomum chloride, dicetyl ammomum chloride, dicetyl ammonium brormde, dilauryl ammomum chloride, dilauryl ammomum bromide, distearyl ammonium chloride, distearyl ammonium bromide, dicetyl methyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl methyl ammonium bromide, dilauryl methyl ammonium chloride, dilauryl methyl ammomum bromide, distearyl methyl ammonium chloride, distearyl methyl ammomum bromide, and mixtures thereof Additional quaternary ammonium salts include those wherein the C12 to

C30 alkyl carbon chain is derived from a tallow fatty acid or from a coconut fatty acid The term "tallow" refers to an alkyl group derived from tallow fatty acids (usually hydrogenated tallow fatty acids), which generally have mixtures of alkyl chains m the C_jg to C_jg range The term "coconut" refers to an alkyl group derived from a coconut fatty acid, which generally have mixtures of alkyl chams m the C_j 2 to C14 range Examples of quaternary ammomum salts derived from these tallow and coconut sources mclude ditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow dimethyl ammonium methyl sulfate, dι(hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride, dι(hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium acetate, ditallow dipropyl ammonium phosphate, ditallow dimethyl ammonium nitrate, dι(coconutalkyl)dιmethyl ammonium chloride, dι(coconutalkyl)dιmethyl ammonium bromide, tallow ammonium chloride, coconut ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl PG-dimomum chloride phosphate, stearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl (mynstyl acetate) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammomum chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammomum lactate, and mixtures thereof An example of a quaternary ammonium compound having an alkyl group with an ester linkage is ditallowyl oxyethyl dimethyl ammonium chloride

More prefeπed cationic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of behenamidopropyl PG dimomum chloride, dilauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dimyπstyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dipalmityl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl PG-dimomum chloride phosphate, stearamidopropyl ethyldiammomum ethosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl (mynstyl acetate) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammomum lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Most prefeπed cationic surfactants are those selected from the group consistmg of behenamidopropyl PG dimomum chlonde, dilauryl dimethyl ammomum chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammomum chloride, dimyπstyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dipalmityl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

A prefeπed combination of cationic surfactant and structuring agent is behenamidopropyl PG dimomum chloride and/or behenyl alcohol, wherein the ratio is preferably optimized to maintained to enhance physical and chemical stability, especially when such a combination contains ionic and/or highly polar solvents This combination is especially useful for delivery of sunscreemng agents such as zinc oxide and octyl methoxycinnamate.

A wide variety of anionic surfactants are also useful herein. See, e g , U S Patent No. 3,929,678, to Laughhn et al , issued December 30, 1975, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety Nonlimitmg examples of anionic surfactants include the alkoyl lsethionates, and the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. The alkoyl lsethionates typically have the formula RCO-OCH CH SO M wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and tnethanolamine Nonlimitmg examples of these lsethionates include those alkoyl lsethionates selected from the group consisting of ammonium cocoyl lsethionate, sodium cocoyl lsethionate, sodium lauroyl lsethionate, sodium stearoyl lsethionate, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates typically have the respective formulae ROSO M and

RO(C H O) SO M, wherem R is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is from about 1 to about 10, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and tnethanolamine Another suitable class of anionic surfactants is the water-soluble salts of the orgamc, sulfuπc acid reaction products of the general formula- R— SO -M wherein R is chosen from the group consisting of a straight or branched chain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 8 to about 24, preferably about 10 to about 16, carbon atoms, and M is a cation Still other anionic synthetic surfactants include the class designated as succmamates, olefin sulfonates having about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and β-alkyloxy alkane sulfonates. Examples of these materials are sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate

Other anionic materials useful herein are soaps (1 e alkali metal salts, e g , sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids, typically havmg from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably from about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms The fatty acids used in making the soaps can be obtained from natural sources such as, for instance, plant or animal-derived glyceπdes (e g , palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, castor oil, tallow, lard, etc ) The fatty acids can also be synthetically prepared Soaps are described in more detail in U S Patent No 4,557,853

Amphotenc and zwittenomc surfactants are also useful herem Examples of amphotenc and zwitteπomc surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention are those which are broadly descnbed as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms (preferably Cg - C_j g) and one contains an anionic water solubihzing group, e g , carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate Examples are alkyl lmino acetates, and lminodialkanoates and aminoalkanoates of the formulas RNrCH„) CO„ML and RNH(CH„) CO„M

2 m 2 2 2 m 2 wherein m is from 1 to 4, R is a Cg-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, and M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal ammomum, or alkanolammomum Also mcluded are lmidazolinium and ammonium derivatives Specific examples of suitable amphotenc surfactants include sodium 3-dodecyl-amιnopropιonate, sodium 3-dodecylammopropane sulfonate, N-alkyltaurmes such as the one prepared by reacting dodecylamme with sodium lsethionate according to the teaching of U S Patent 2,658,072 which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, N-higher alkyl aspartic acids such as those produced according to the teaching of U S Patent 2,438,091 which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, and the products sold under the trade name "Miranol" and described m U S Patent 2,528,378, which is incorporated herein by reference m its entirety Other examples of useful amphoteπcs mclude phosphates, such as coamidopropyl PG-dimomum chloride phosphate (commercially available as Monaquat PTC, from Mona Corp )

Also useful herein as amphotenc or zwittenomc surfactants are the betames Examples of betaines include the higher alkyl betaines, such as coco dimethyl carboxymethyl betame, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betame, cetyl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine (available as Lonzaine 16SP from Lonza Corp ), lauryl bιs-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bιs-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, lauryl bιs-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bιs-(2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betame, and amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (wherein the RCONH(CH ) radical is attached to the nitrogen atom of the betaine), oleyl betaine (available as amphotenc Velvetex OLB-50 from Henkel), and cocamidopropyl betaine (available as Velvetex BK-35 and BA-35 from Henkel)

Other useful amphotenc and zwittenomc surfactants include the sultames and hydroxysultaines such as cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (available as Mirataine CBS from Rhone-Poulenc), and the alkanoyl sarcosinates coπesponding to the formula RCON(CH )CH CH CO M wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and trialkanolamme (e g , tnethanolamine), a prefeπed example of which is sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (in) Water

The prefeπed oil-m-water emulsion comprises from about 25% to about 98%, preferably from about 65%o to about 95%, more preferably from about 70% to about 90% water by weight of the topical earner

The hydrophobic phase is dispersed m the contmuous aqueous phase The hydrophobic phase may contain water insoluble or partially soluble materials such as are known in the art, including but not limited to the silicones described herein m reference to sihcone-m-water emulsions, and other oils and hpids such as described above m reference to emulsions

The topical compositions of the subject invention, including but not limited to lotions and creams, may comprise a dermatologically acceptable emollient Such compositions preferably contam from about 2% to about 50% of the emollient As used herein, "emollient" refers to a material useful for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for the protection of the skm A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and may be used herem Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol 1, pp 32-43 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, contains numerous examples of materials suitable as an emollient A prefeπed emollient is glycerin Glycerin is preferably used m an amount of from or about 0 001 to or about 20%, more preferably from or about 0 01 to or about 10%, most preferably from or about 0 1 to or about 5%, e g , 3%

Lotions and creams according to the present invention generally comprise a solution earner system and one or more emollients Lotions typically comprise from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 10%, of emollient, from about 50%> to about 90%, preferably from about 60% to about 80%, water, and phytosterol in the above described amounts A cream typically compnses from about 5% to about 50%, preferably from about 10% to about 20%, of emollient, from about 45% to about 85%, preferably from about 50% to about 75%, water, and the phytosterol m the above descnbed amounts

Ointments of the present invention may comprise a simple earner base of animal or vegetable oils or semi-solid hydrocarbons (oleaginous), absorption ointment bases which absorb water to form emulsions, or water soluble earners, e g , a water soluble solution carrier Ointments may further comprise a thickening agent, such as described m Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology. 2nd Edition, Vol 1, pp 72-73 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, and/or an emollient For example, an ointment may comprise from about 2% to about 10% of an emollient, from about 0 1% to about 2% of a thickening agent, and phytosterol in the above descnbed amount

Compositions of this invention useful for cleansing ("cleansers") are formulated with a suitable earner, e g , as described above, and preferably contam, in addition to the phytosterol m the above described amounts, from about 1% to about 90%, more preferably from about 5% to about 10%, of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant The surfactant is suitably selected from anionic, nonionic, zwittenomc, amphotenc and ampholytic surfactants, as well as mixtures of these surfactants Such surfactants are well known to those skilled in the detergency art Nonlimitmg examples of possible surfactants include ιsoceteth-20, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, and sodium lauryl sulfate See U S Patent No 4,800,197, to Kowcz et al , issued January 24, 1989, which is incorporated herein by reference m its entirety, for exemplary surfactants useful herein Examples of a broad variety of additional surfactants useful herein are described m McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation The cleansing compositions can optionally contam, at their art-established levels, other materials that are conventionally used m cleansing compositions

The physical form of the cleansing compositions is not critical The compositions can be, for example, formulated as toilet bars, liquids, shampoos, bath gels, hair conditioners, hair tonics, pastes, or mousses Toilet bars are most prefeπed smce this is the form of cleansing agent most commonly used to wash the skm Rinse-off cleansmg compositions, such as shampoos, require a delivery system adequate to deposit sufficient levels of actives on the skin and scalp A prefeπed delivery system mvolves the use of insoluble complexes For a more complete disclosure of such delivery systems, see U S Patent 4,835,148, Barford et al , issued May 30, 1989

The compositions of the present invention may also be in the form of cosmetics Suitable cosmetic forms include, but are not limited to, foundations, lipsticks, rouges, mascaras, and the like Such cosmetic products may include conventional ingredients such as oils, colorants, pigments, emollients, fragrances, waxes, stabilizers, and the like Exemplary earners and such other ingredients which are suitable for use herem are descnbed, for example, m copending patent application Serial No 08/430,961, filed on April 28, 1995 m the names of Marcia L Canter, Brain D Barford, and Brian D Hofrichter, and U K Patent Application GB 2274585-A, published on Jan 23, 1993 Optional Components

The compositions of the present invention may contain a variety of other ingredients such as are conventionally used in a given product type provided that they do not unacceptably alter the benefits of the invention

In a prefeπed embodiment, where the composition is to be in contact with human keratmous tissue, the optional components should be suitable for application to keratinous tissue, that is, when incorporated into the composition they are suitable for use m contact with human keratinous tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like within the scope of sound medical judgment The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes a wide variety of nonlimitmg cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used m the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention Examples of these ingredient classes include abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as fragrances, pigments, colorings/colorants, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, etc (e g , clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate), anti-acne agents, anti-cakmg agents, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents (e g , lodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, dmg astringents, external analgesics, film formers or materials, e g , polymers, for aiding the film-forming properties and substantivity of the composition (e g , copolymer of eicosene and vinyl pyπohdone), opacifying agents, pH adjusters, propellants, reducing agents, sequestrants, skm bleaching and lightening agents (e g , hydroqumone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), skm-conditionmg agents (e g , humectants, including miscellaneous and occlusive), skm soothing and/or healing agents (e g , panthenol and derivatives (e g , ethyl panthenol), aloe vera, pantothemc acid and its derivatives, allantoin, bisabolol, and dipotassium glycyπhizmate), skin treating agents, thickeners, and vitamins and derivatives thereof

In any embodiment of the present invention, however, the actives useful herein can be categorized by the benefit they provide or by their postulated mode of action However, it is to be understood that the actives useful herein can in some instances provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action Therefore, classifications herein are made for the sake of convemence and are not intended to limit the active to that particular application or applications listed

Desquamation Actives

A safe and effective amount of a desquamation active may be added to the compositions of the present invention, more preferably from about 0 1% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0 5% to about 4%, by weight of the composition Desquamation actives enhance the skin appearance benefits of the present invention For example, the desquamation actives tend to improve the texture of the skm (e g , smoothness) One desquamation system that is suitable for use herein comprises sulfhydryl compounds and zwittenomc surfactants and is described m copendmg application Serial No 08/480,632, filed on June 7, 1995 m the name of Donald L Bissett, conesponding to PCT Application No U S 95/08136, filed 6/29/95 Another desquamation system that is suitable for use herem comprises salicylic acid and zwittenomc surfactants and is described in copending patent application Serial No 08/554,944, filed on November 13, 1995 as a continuation of Serial No 08/209,401, filed on March 9, 1994 in the name of Bissett, coπesponding to PCT Application No 94/12745, filed 11/4/94, published 5/18/95 Zwittenomc surfactants such as described m these applications are also useful as desquamatory agents herein, with cetyl betaine being particularly prefeπed

Anti-Acne Actives

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of one or more anti-acne actives Examples of useful anti-acne actives include resorcmol, sulfur, salicylic acid, erythromycin, zinc, etc Further examples of suitable anti-acne actives are described m further detail in U S Patent No 5,607,980, issued to McAtee et al, on March 4, 1997

Anti-Wrinkle Actives/Anti- Atrophy Actives The compositions of the present invention may further comprise a safe and effective amount of one or more anti-wrinkle actives or anti-atrophy actives Exemplary anti-wrmkle/anti-atrophy actives suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly the N-acetyl derivatives, a prefeπed example of which is N-acetyl- L-cysteine, thiols, e g ethane thiol, hydroxy acids, phytic acid, hpoic acid, lysophosphatidic acid, skin peel agents (e.g., phenol and the like), flavonoids (e g , flavanones, chalcones, isoflavones, flavones, etc.), terpene alcohols (e.g., famesol), vitamin B₃ compounds and retmoids which enhance the keratmous tissue appearance benefits of the present mvention, especially m regulatmg keratmous tissue condition, e.g., skm condition. a) Vitamin B^ Compounds

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of a vitamm B3 compound. Vitamm B₃ compounds are particularly useful for regulating skin condition as described m co-pendmg U S Application Serial No. 08/834,010, filed April 1 1, 1997 (coπesponding to international publication WO 97/39733 Al, published October 30, 1997). When vitamm B₃ compounds are present m the compositions of the instant invention, the compositions preferably comprise from about 0 01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0 5% to about 10%, and still more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of the vitamin B3 compound.

As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound havmg the formula:

wherem R is - CONH2 (i.e., macinamide), - COOH (i.e., mcotinic acid) or - CH2OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregomg.

Exemplary derivatives of the foregomg vitamin B3 compounds include mcotmic acid esters, including non-vasodilatmg esters of nicotinic acid (e g , tocopheryl nicotinate), mcotmyl ammo acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxy c acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and macinamide N-oxide

Examples of suitable vitamm B3 compounds are well known m the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g , the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).

The vitamin compounds may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources. b) Retinoids

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a retmoid As used herem, "retinoid" includes all natural and/or synthetic analogs of Vitamm A or retinol-hke compounds which possess the biological activity of Vitamm A m the skin as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds The retmoid is preferably retmol, retinol esters (e g , C - C22 alkyl esters of retmol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retmyl propionate), retinal, and/or retinoic acid (including all- trans retmoic acid and/or 13-cιs-retmoιc acid), more preferably retmoids other than retinoic acid These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e g , Sigma Chemical Company (St Louis, MO), and Boerhmger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN) Other retmoids which are useful herein are described in U S Patent Nos 4,677,120, issued Jun 30, 1987 to Parish et al , 4,885,311, issued Dec 5, 1989 to Parish et al , 5,049,584, issued Sep 17, 1991 to Purcell et al , 5,124,356, issued Jun 23, 1992 to Purcell et al , and Reissue 34,075, issued Sep 22, 1992 to Purcell et al Other suitable retmoids are tocopheryl-retmoate [tocopherol ester of retmoic acid (trans- or cis-), adapalene {6- [3-(l-adamantyl)-4-methoxyphenyl]-2-naphthoιc acid}, and tazarotene (ethyl 6-[2-(4,4- dιmethylthιochroman-6-yl)-ethynyl]nιcotιnate) Prefeπed retmoids are retinol, retmyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof

The retinoid may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e g , plant) sources The retinoid is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure

The compositions of this invention may contain a safe and effective amount of the retmoid, such that the resultant composition is safe and effective for regulating keratinous tissue condition, preferably for regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skm, more preferably for regulating signs of skin agmg, even more preferably for regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skm texture associated with skin agmg The compositions preferably contain from or about 0 005% to or about 2%, more preferably 0 01% to or about 2%, retinoid Retinol is most preferably used in an amount of from or about 0 01% to or about 0 15%, retinol esters are most preferably used m an amount of from or about 0 01% to or about 2% (e g , about 1%), retmoic acids are most preferably used in an amount of from or about 0 01% to or about 0 25%, tocopheryl-retmoate, adapalene, and tazarotene are most preferably used in an amount of from or about 0 01%) to or about 2%

Where the compositions of the present invention contain both a retmoid and a Vitamin B3 compound, the retinoid is preferably used in the above amounts, and the vitamin B3 compound is preferably used in an amount of from or about 0 1% to or about 10%, more preferably from or about 2% to or about 5%

Anti-Oxidants/Radical Scavengers

The compositions of the present invention may include a safe and effective amount of an anti- oxidant radical scavenger The anti-oxidant/radical scavenger is especially useful for providing protection against UV radiation that can cause increased scaling or texture changes m the stratum corneum and against other environmental agents, which can cause skin damage

A safe and effective amount of an anti-oxidant/radical scavenger may be added to the compositions of the subject invention, preferably from about 0 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of the composition

Anti-oxidants/radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, ascorbic acid denvatives (e g , magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylated hydroxy benzoic acids and their salts, 6-hydroxy-2,5J,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxyhc acid (commercially available under the tradename Trolox^), gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propyl gallate, uric acid and its salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, hpoic acid, amines (e g , N,N-dιethylhydroxylarmne, amino- guamdine), sulfhydryl compounds (e g , glutathione), dihydroxy fumaπc acid and its salts, lycine pidolate, arg mne pilolate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavonoids, lysine, methionme, prolme, superoxide dismutase, silymarm, tea extracts, grape skin/seed extracts, melanin, and rosemary extracts may be used Prefeπed anti-oxidants/radical scavengers are selected from tocopherol sorbate and other esters of tocopherol, more preferably tocopherol sorbate For example, the use of tocopherol sorbate m topical compositions and applicable to the present invention is described in U S Patent No 4,847,071, issued on July 11, 1989 to Donald L Bissett, Rodney D Bush and Ranjit Chatterjee

Chelators

The compositions of the present invention may also compπse a safe and effective amount of a chelator or chelatmg agent As used herein, "chelator" or "chelatmg agent" means an active agent capable of removing a metal ion from a system by forming a complex so that the metal ion cannot readily participate in or catalyze chemical reactions The inclusion of a chelatmg agent is especially useful for providing protection against UV radiation that can contribute to excessive scaling or skin texture changes and against other environmental agents, which can cause skin damage

A safe and effective amount of a chelatmg agent may be added to the compositions of the subject invention, preferably from about 0 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of the composition Exemplary chelators that are useful herein are disclosed m U S Patent No 5,487,884, issued 1/30/96 to Bissett et al , International Publication No 91/16035, Bush et al , published 10/31/95, and International Publication No 91/16034, Bush et al , published 10/31/95 Prefeπed chelators useful in compositions of the subject invention are fuπldioxime and derivatives thereof Flavonoids

The compositions of the present invention may optionally comprise a flavonoid compound Flavonoids are broadly disclosed in U S Patents 5,686,082 and 5,686,367, both of which are herein incorporated by reference Flavonoids suitable for use in the present invention are flavanones selected from the group consisting of unsubstiruted flavanones, mono-substituted flavanones, and mixtures thereof, chalcones selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted chalcones, mono-substituted chalcones, di- substituted chalcones, tri-substituted chalcones, and mixtures thereof; flavones selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted flavones, mono-substituted flavones, di-substiruted flavones, and mixtures thereof; one or more lsoflavones, coumaπns selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted coumarins, mono-substituted coumarins, di-substituted coumarins, and mixtures thereof; chromones selected from the group consisting of unsubstituted chromones, mono-substituted chromones, di-substiruted chromones, and mixtures thereof; one or more dicoumarols, one or more chromanones; one or more chromanols; isomers (e.g., cis/trans isomers) thereof; and mixtures thereof. By the term "substituted" as used herein means flavonoids wherein one or more hydrogen atom of the flavonoid has been independently replaced with hydroxyl, C1-C8 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxyl, O-glycoside, and the like or a mixture of these substituents.

Examples of suitable flavonoids include, but are not limited to, unsubstituted flavanone, mono- hydroxy flavanones (e.g , 2'-hydroxy flavanone, 6-hydroxy flavanone, 7-hydroxy flavanone, etc.), mono- alkoxy flavanones (e.g., 5-methoxy flavanone, 6-methoxy flavanone, 7-methoxy flavanone, 4'-methoxy flavanone, etc.), unsubstituted chalcone (especially unsubstituted trans-chalcone), mono-hydroxy chalcones (e g., 2'-hydroxy chalcone, 4'-hydroxy chalcone, etc ), di-hydroxy chalcones (e.g., 2', 4-dιhydroxy chalcone, 2',4'-dιhydroxy chalcone, 2,2'-dιhydroxy chalcone, 2',3-dιhydroxy chalcone, 2',5'-dιhydroxy chalcone, etc.), and tπ-hydroxy chalcones (e.g., 2',3',4'-tπhydroxy chalcone, 4,2',4'-tπhydroxy chalcone, 2,2',4'-tnhydroxy chalcone, etc ), unsubstituted flavone, 7,2'-dιhydroxy flavone, 3',4'-dιhydroxy naphthoflavone, 4'-hydroxy flavone, 5,6-benzoflavone, and 7,8-benzoflavone, unsubstituted isoflavone, daidzem (7,4'-dmydroxy isoflavone), 5J-dιhydroxy-4'-methoxy isoflavone, soy isoflavones (a mixture extracted from soy), unsubstituted coumarm, 4-hydroxy coumarm, 7-hydroxy coumann, 6-hydroxy-4- methyl coumarm, unsubstituted chromone, 3-formyl chromone, 3-formyl-6-ιsopropyl chromone, unsubstituted dicoumarol, unsubstituted chromanone, unsubstituted chromanol, and mixtures thereof.

Prefeπed for use herein are unsubstituted flavanone, methoxy flavanones, unsubstituted chalcone, 2', 4-dιhydroxy chalcone, and mixtures thereof Most prefeπed are unsubstituted flavanone, unsubstituted chalcone (especially the trans isomer), and mixtures thereof.

They can be synthetic materials or obtained as extracts from natural sources (e.g., plants). The naturally sourced material can also further be denvatized (e.g., an ester or ether derivative prepared following extraction from a natural source). Flavonoid compounds useful herein are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., Indofϊne Chemical Company, Inc. (Somerville, New Jersey), Steraloids, Inc (Wilton, New Hampshire), and Aldrich Chemical Company, Inc. (Milwaukee, Wisconsm).

Mixtures of the above flavonoid compounds may also be used

The herein described flavonoid compounds are preferably present in the instant invention at concentrations of from about 0 01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%

Anti-Inflammatory Agents

A safe and effective amount of an anti-inflammatory agent may be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, of the composition The anti-inflammatory agent enhances the skm appearance benefits of the present mvention, e g , such agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color The exact amount of anti-inflammatory agent to be used m the compositions will depend on the particular anti- mflammatory agent utilized smce such agents vary widely m potency

Steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, including but not limited to, corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone, hydroxyltπamcinolone, alpha-methyl dexamethasone, dexamethasone-phosphate, beclomethasone dipropionates, clobetasol valerate, desomde, desoxymethasone, desoxycorticosterone acetate, dexamethasone, dichloπsone, diflorasone diacetate, diflucortolone valerate, fluadrenolone, fluclorolone acetomde, fludrocortisone, flumethasone pivalate, fluosmolone acetomde, fluocmonide, flucortme butylesters, fluocortolone, flupredmdene (fluprednyhdene) acetate, flurandrenolone, halcrnonide, hydrocortisone acetate, hydrocortisone butyrate, methylprednisolone, tπamcmolone acetomde, cortisone, cortodoxone, flucetonide, fludrocortisone, difluorosone diacetate, fluradrenolone, fludrocortisone, diflurosone diacetate, fluradrenolone acetomde, medrysone, amcmafel, amcmafide, betamethasone and the balance of its esters, chloroprednisone, chlorpredmsone acetate, clocortelone, clescinolone, dichloπsone, diflurprednate, flucloronide, flunisohde, fluoromethalone, fluperolone, flupredmsolone, hydrocortisone valerate, hydrocortisone cyclopentylpropionate, hydrocortamate, mepredmsone, paramethasone, predmsolone, predmsone, beclomethasone dipropionate, tπamcinolone, and mixtures thereof may be used The prefeπed steroidal anti-inflammatory for use is hydrocortisone

A second class of anti-inflammatory agents, which is useful m the compositions, mcludes the nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents The varieties of compounds encompassed by this group are well known to those skilled m the art For detailed disclosure of the chemical stmcture, synthesis, side effects, etc of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, one may refer to standard texts, including Anti-inflammatory and Anti-Rheumatic Drugs. K D Rainsford, Vol I-III, CRC Press, Boca Raton, (1985), and Anti- lnflammatory Agents, Chemistry and Pharmacology. 1, R A Scheπer, et al , Academic Press, New York (1974)

Specific non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents useful m the composition invention include, but are not limited to

1) the oxicams, such as piroxicam, lsoxicam, tenoxicam, sudoxicam, and CP-14, 304,

2) the sahcylates, such as aspirin, disalcid, benorylate, trihsate, safapryn, solpπn, diflunisal, and fendosal,

3) the acetic acid derivatives, such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, mdomethacm, suhndac, tolmetin, isoxepac, furofenac, tiopinac, zidometacin, acematacm, fentiazac, zomepirac, clmdanac, oxepinac, felbinac, and ketorolac,

4) the fenamates, such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic, mflumic, and tolfenamic acids, 5) the propiomc acid derivatives, such as ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, mdopropfen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozm, pranoprofen, miroprofen, tioxaprofen, suprofen, a mnoprofen, and tiaprofemc, and

6) the pyrazoles, such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, feprazone, azapropazone, and tπmethazone

Mixtures of these non-steroidal anti-mflammatory agents may also be employed, as well as the dermatologically acceptable salts and esters of these agents For example, etofenamate, a flufenamic acid derivative, is particularly useful for topical application Of the nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents, ibuprofen, naproxen, ketoprofen, flufenamic acid, etofenamate, aspirm, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, piroxicam and felbmac are prefeπed, ibuprofen, naproxen, ketoprofen, etofenamate, aspirm and flufenamic acid are most prefeπed

Finally, so-called "natural" anti-mflammatory agents are useful in methods of the present invention Such agents may suitably be obtained as an extract by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural sources (e g , plants, fungi, by-products of microorganisms) For example, candehlla wax, alpha-bisabolol, aloe vera, Manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia Cordifo a). and Guggal (extracted from plants in the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora Mukul), kola extract, chamomile, red clover extract, and sea whip extract, may be used

Additional anti-inflammatory agents useful herem include allantom and compounds of the Licorice (the plant genus/species Glvcyπhiza glabra) family, including glycyrrhetic acid, glycyπhizic acid, and derivatives thereof (e g , salts and esters) Suitable salts of the foregoing compounds mclude metal and ammomum salts Suitable esters include C2 - C24 saturated or unsaturated esters of the acids, preferably

CI Q - C24, more preferably C_jg - C24 Specific examples of the foregoing include oil soluble liconce extract, the glycyπhizic and glycyπhetic acids themselves, monoammonium glycyπhizinate, monopotassium glycyπhizinate, dipotassium glycyπhizinate, 1-beta-glycyπhetιc acid, stearyl glycyπhetinate, and 3-stearyloxy-glycyπhetιmc acid, and disodium 3-succιnyloxy-beta-glycyπhetιnate Stearyl glycyπhetinate is prefeπed

The active component of these anti-inflammatory agents (e g , biabolol, glycyrrhetmate esters) may also be obtained via extraction from natural sources or prepared synthetically Anti-Celluhte Agents

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a safe and effective amount of an anti-celluhte agent Suitable agents may mclude, but are not limited to, xanthine compounds (e g , caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, and ammophylline)

Topical Anesthetics

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a safe and effective amount of a topical anesthetic Examples of topical anesthetic drags mclude benzocame, hdocaine, bupivacaine, chlorprocame, dibucaine, etidocame, mepivacame, tetracaine, dyclomne, hexylcaine, procame, cocaine, ketamine, pramoxme, phenol, and pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof

Tanning Actives

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a tanning active When present, it is preferable that the compositions comprise from about 0 1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 2% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 6%, by weight of the composition, of dihydroxyacetone as an artificial tanning active

Dihydroxyacetone, which is also known as DHA or l,3-dιhydroxy-2-propanone, is a white to off- white, crystalline powder This material can be represented by the chemical formula C3H6O3 and the following chemical stmcture

O

HOH₂C— C — CH₂OH

The compound can exist as a mixture of monomers and dimers, with the dimers predommatmg m the solid crystalline state Upon heating or meltmg, the dimers break down to yield the monomers This conversion of the dimenc form to the monomeπc form also occurs in aqueous solution Dihydroxyacetone is also known to be more stable at acidic pH values See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, entry 3167, p 463 (1983), and "Dihydroxyacetone for Cosmetics", E Merck Technical Bulletin, 03-304 110, 319 897, 180 588

Skin Lightening Agents

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a skin lightening agent When used, the compositions preferably compπse from about 0 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0 2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0 5% to about 2%, by weight of the composition, of a skm lightening agent Suitable skin lightening agents mclude those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and deπvatives thereof, e g , magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate or other salts of ascorbyl phosphate Skin lightening agents suitable for use herem also include those described in copending patent application Serial No 08/479,935, filed on June 7, 1995 in the name of Hillebrand, coπesponding to PCT Application No U S 95/07432, filed 6/12/95, and copending patent application Serial No 08/390,152, filed on February 24, 1995 in the names of Kalla L Kvalnes, Mitchell A DeLong, Barton J Bradbury, Curtis B Motley, and John D Carter, coπespondmg to PCT Application No U S 95/02809, filed 3/1/95, published 9/8/95

Antimicrobial and Antifungal Actives

The compositions of the present invention may comprise an antimicrobial or antifungal active Such actives are capable of destroying microbes, preventing the development of microbes or preventmg the pathogenic action of microbes A safe and effective amount of an antimicrobial or antifungal active may be added to the present compositions, preferably, from about 0 001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0 01% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 0 05% to about 2%

Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal actives include β-lactam drugs, qumolone drags, ciprofloxacm, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycm, amikacin, 2,4,4'-tnchloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-tπchlorobanιlιde, phenoxyethanol, phenoxy propanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycyclme, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracyclme, oxytetracyclme, clmdamycm, ethambutol, hexamidme lsethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, hneomycin, methacychne, methenamine, minocychne, neomycin, netilmicm, paromomycm, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, zmc erythromycin, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, doxycyclme hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlortetracyclme hydrochloride, oxytetracyclme hydrochloride, clmdamycm hydrochloride, ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lmeomycm hydrochloride, methacychne hydrochloride, methenamine hippurate, methenamine mandelate, minocyclme hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netihmcm sulfate, paromomycm sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycm sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride, ketaconazole, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine sulfate, octopirox, parachlorometa xylenol, nystatm, tolnaftate, zinc pynthione and clorπmazole

Prefeπed examples of actives useful herein mclude those selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, glycohc acid, lactic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, acetyl salicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoιc acid, 2-hydroxypentanoιc acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoιc acid, cis- retmoic acid, trans-retmoic acid, retinol, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteme, hpoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, benzoylperoxide, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcmol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-tπchloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-tnchlorocarbamhde, octopirox, hdocaine hydrochloride, clotπmazole, miconazole, ketoconazole, neocycm sulfate, and mixtures thereof

Sunscreen Actives

Exposure to ultraviolet light can result in excessive scaling and texture changes of the stratum comeum Therefore, the compositions of the subject invention may optionally contain a sunscreen active As used herein, "sunscreen active" includes both sunscreen agents and physical sunblocks Suitable sunscreen actives may be organic or inorganic A wide variety of conventional sunscreen actives are suitable for use herein Sagarm, et al , at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq , of Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972), discloses numerous suitable actives Specific suitable sunscreen actives mclude, for example p-ammobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid), anthramlates (I e , o-amino- benzoates, methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpmyl, and cyclohexenyl esters), sahcylates (amyl, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and di-pro-pyleneglycol esters), cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, a-phenyl cinnamomtrile, butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate), dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelhferone, methylumbelhferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone), tnhydroxy-cmnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculm and daphnm), hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene), dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone, naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-dιsulfonιc and of 2-naphthol-6,8-dιsulfonιc acids), di- hydroxynaphthoic acid and its salts, o- and p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates, coumarm derivatives (7- hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl), diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoιndazole, phenyl benzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, vaπous aryl benzothiazoles), quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate), quinolme derivatives (8-hydroxyquιnohne salts, 2-phenylquιnohne), hydroxy- or methoxy-substituted benzophenones, uric and violunc acids, tannic acid and its derivatives (e g , hexaethylether), (butyl carbotol) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether, hydroquinone, benzophenones (oxybenzene, suhsobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzoresorcmol, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dιhydroxy-4,4'- dimethoxybenzophenone, octabenzone, 4-ιsopropyldιbenzoylmethane, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, etocrylene, octocrylene, [3-(4'-methylbenzyhdene boman-2-one), 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide

Of these, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycιnnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MCX), 4,4'-t- butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane (commercially available as PARSOL 1789), 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-ammobenzoic acid, digalloyltπoleate, 2,2-dιhydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxy-propyl))armnobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3- diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl-sahcylate, glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tn-methylcyclohexylsahcylate, methylanthramlate, p-dimethyl-ammobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-ammo- benzoate, 2-phenylbenzιmιdazole-5-sulfonιc acid, 2-(p-dιmethylamιnophenyl)-5-sulfonιcbenzoxazoιc acid, octocrylene, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and mixtures of these compounds, are prefeπed

More prefeπed organic sunscreen actives useful in the compositions useful in the subject invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycmnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoyl-methane, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzo-phenone, 2-phenylbenzιmιdazole-5-sulfonιc acid, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene, zmc oxide, titanium dioxide, and mixtures thereof

Also particularly useful in the compositions are sunscreen actives such as those disclosed in U S Patent No 4,937,370 issued to Sabatelh on June 26, 1990, and U S Patent No 4,999,186 issued to Sabatelh & Spirnak on March 12, 1991 The sunscreenmg agents disclosed therein have, m a single molecule, two distinct chromophore moieties, which exhibit different ultra-violet radiation absorption spectra One of the chromophore moieties absorbs predominantly m the UVB radiation range and the other absorbs strongly m the UVA radiation range

Prefeπed members of this class of sunscreemng agents are 4-N, N-(2-ethylhexyl) methyl- ammobenzoic acid ester of 2,4-dιhydroxybenzophenone, N, N-dι-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-amιnobenzoιc acid ester with 4-hydroxydιbenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-(2-ethylhexyl) methyl-ammobenzoic acid ester with 4- hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N, N-(2-ethylhexyl) methyl-ammobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4-(2- hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N-(2-ethylhexyl)-methylamιnobenzoιc acid ester of 4-(2- hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, N,N-dι-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-ammobenzoιc acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4-(2- hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, and N,N-dι-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-ammobenzoιc acid ester of 4-(2- hydroxyethoxy)dιbenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof

Especially prefeπed sunscreen actives mclude 4,4'-t-butylmethoxydιbenzoylmethane, 2- ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, phenyl benzimidazole sulfomc acid, octocrylene, zmc oxide, and titamum dioxide, and mixtures thereof

A safe and effective amount of the sunscreen active is used, typically from about 1 % to about 20%, more typically from about 2% to about 10% by weight of the composition Exact amounts will vary depending upon the sunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

Conditioning Agents

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a conditioning agent selected from the group consistmg of humectants, moisturizers, or skm conditioners A variety of these materials can be employed and each can be present at a level of from about 0 01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0 1% to about 10%>, and most preferably from about 0 5% to about 7% by weight of the composition These materials include, but are not limited to, guamdine, urea, glycolic acid and glycolate salts (e g ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammomum), salicylic acid, lactic acid and lactate salts (e g , ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium), aloe vera in any of its variety of forms (e g , aloe vera gel), polyhydroxy compounds such as sorbitol, mannitol, glycerol, hexanetπol, butanetπol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and the like, polyethylene glycols, sugars (e g , mehbiose) and starches, sugar and starch derivatives (e g , alkoxylated glucose, fructose, sucrose, etc ), hyaluromc acid, lactamide monoethanolamme, acetamide monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof Also useful herein are the propoxylated glycerols described in U S Patent No 4,976,953, to On et al, issued December 11, 1990

Also useful are various C C₃₀ monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related matenals These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxyhc acid moieties Such ester materials are further described in, U S Patent No 2,831,854, U S Patent No 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977, U S Patent No 4,005,195, to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977, U S Patent No 5,306,516, to Letton et al, issued April 26, 1994, U S Patent No 5,306,515, to Letton et al, issued April 26, 1994, U S Patent No 5,305,514, to Letton et al, issued April 26, 1994, U S Patent No 4,797,300, to Jandacek et al, issued January 10, 1989, U S Patent No 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al, issued June 15, 1976, U S Patent No 4,518,772, to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985, and U S Patent No 4,517,360, to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985

Preferably, the conditioning agent is selected from the group consistmg of glycerol, urea, guamdme, sucrose polyester, and combinations thereof

Thickening Agent (including thickeners and gelling agents)

The compositions of the present invention can comprise one or more thickening agents, preferably from about 0 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0 1%> to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0 25% to about 2%, by weight of the composition

Nonlimitmg classes of thickening agents include those selected from the group consisting of a) Carboxyhc Acid Polymers

These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosshnkmg agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydπc alcohol Polymers useful in the present invention are more fully described in U S Patent No 5,087,445, to Haffey et al, issued February 11, 1992, U S Patent No 4,509,949, to Huang et al, issued April 5, 1985, U S Patent No 2,798,053, to Brown, issued July 2, 1957, and in CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fourth Edition, 1991, pp 12 and 80

Examples of commercially available carboxyhc acid polymers useful herein include the carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytntol The carbomers are available as the Carbopol® 900 series from B F Goodrich (e g ,

Carbopol® 954) In addition, other suitable carboxyhc acid polymeric agents include copolymers of CJQ.

30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short chain

(l e , Cι _4 alcohol) esters, wherein the crosslinkmg agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerytntol

These copolymers are known as acrylates/Cι_{0 3}o alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and are commercially available as Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® 1382, Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2, from B F Goodrich In other words, examples of carboxyhc acid polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from the group consistmg of carbomers, acrylates/C₁₀-C₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, and mixtures thereof b) Crosslinked Polyacrylate Polymers

The compositions of the present invention can optionally comprise crosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agents including both cationic and noniomc polymers, with the catiomcs being generally prefeπed Examples of useful crosslinked noniomc polyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in U S Patent No 5,100,660, to Hawe et al, issued March 31, 1992, U S Patent No 4,849,484, to Heard, issued July 18, 1989, U S Patent No 4,835,206, to Faπar et al, issued May 30, 1989, U S Patent No 4,628,078 to Glover et al issued December 9, 1986, U S Patent No 4,599,379 to Flesher et al issued July 8, 1986, and EP 228,868, to Faπar et al, published July 15, 1987 c) Polyacrylamide Polymers

The compositions of the present invention can optionally comprise polyacrylamide polymers, especially noniomc polyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranched polymers. Most prefeπed among these polyacrylamide polymers is the nomonic polymer given the CTFA designation polyacrylamide and lsoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the Tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation (Fairfield, NJ)

Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multi-block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids Commercially available examples of these multi-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc., (Patterson, NJ). d) Polysacchaπdes

A wide variety of polysacchaπdes are useful herein. "Polysacchaπdes" refer to gelling agents that contam a backbone of repeatmg sugar (I e , carbohydrate) units Nonlimitmg examples of polysacchaπde gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystallme cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof Also useful herein are the alkyl- substituted celluloses In these polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer is hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with a Cι₀-C₃₀ straight cham or branched chain alkyl group through an ether linkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of Cιo-C₃₀ straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses Examples of alkyl groups useful herem include those selected from the group consistmg of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, mynstyl, cetyl, lsocetyl, cocoyl (I e alkyl groups derived from the alcohols of coconut oil), palmityl, oleyl, lmoleyl, hnolenyl, πcinoleyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof Prefeπed among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers is the material given the CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose This material is sold under the tradename Natrosol® CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation (Wilmington, DE).

Other useful polysacchaπdes include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three units, a commercially available example of which is Clearogel™ CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc (Mountainside, NJ). e) Gums

Other thickening and gelling agents useful herein include materials that are primarily derived from natural sources Nonlimitmg examples of these gelling agent gums include materials selected from the group consisting of acacia, agar, algin, algmic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectm, calcium algmate, calcium caπageenan, carnitine, caπageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimomum chloride, hectoπte, hyaluroimc acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium algmate, potassium canageenan, propylene glycol algmate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran, sodium caπageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof

Prefeπed compositions of the present invention include a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of carboxyhc acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of carboxyhc acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, and mixtures thereof Composition Preparation

The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods such as are known m the art of making topical compositions Such methods typically involve mixing of the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, application of vacuum, and the like Methods for Regulating Keratinous Tissue Condition

The compositions of the present mvention are useful for regulating a number of mammalian keratmous tissue conditions Such regulation of keratinous tissue conditions mcludes prophylactic and therapeutic regulation More specifically, such regulating methods are directed to, but are not limited to, thickening keratinous tissue (1 e , building the epidermis and/or derrms and/or subcutaneous layers of the skin and where applicable the keratinous layers of the nail and hair shaft) and preventmg, retarding, and/or treating atrophy of mammalian skm, preventing, retarding, and/or treating the appearance of dark, under- eye circles and or puffy eyes, preventmg, retardmg, and/or treatmg sallowness of mammalian skm, preventing and/or retarding tanning of mammalian skm, desquamating, exfoliating, and or increasmg turnover in mammalian skin, reducing the size of pores in mammalian skm, regulating oily/shmy appearance of mammalian skin, preventmg, retardmg, and/or treatmg post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and preventing and or treating the appearance of cellulite m mammalian skm

Regulating keratinous tissue condition involves topically applying to the keratinous tissue a safe and effective amount of a composition of the present invention The amount of the composition that is applied, the frequency of application and the period of use will vary widely depending upon the level of phytosterol and/or other components of a given composition and the level of regulation desired, e g , m light of the level of keratinous tissue damage present or expected to occur

In a prefeπed embodiment, the composition is chronically applied to the skm By "chrome topical application" is meant continued topical application of the composition over an extended period duπng the subject's lifetime, preferably for a period of at least about one week, more preferably for a period of at least about one month, even more preferably for at least about three months, even more preferably for at least about six months, and more preferably still for at least about one year While benefits are obtainable after various maximum periods of use (e g , five, ten or twenty years), it is prefeπed that chronic applications continue throughout the subject's lifetime Typically applications would be on the order of about once per day over such extended periods, however application rates can vary from about once per week up to about three times per day or more A wide range of quantities of the compositions of the present invention can be employed to provide a skm appearance and/or feel benefit Quantities of the present compositions, which are typically applied per application, are, in mg

skm, from about 0.1 v g/ctτr to about 20 mg/cm . A particularly useful application amount is about 1 mg/cn- to about 10 mg/cm .

Regulating keratinous tissue condition is preferably practiced by applying a composition m the form of a skin lotion, clear lotion, milky lotion, cream, gel, foam, ointment, paste, emulsion, spray, conditioner, tonic, cosmetic, lipstick, foundation, nail polish, after-shave, or the like which is intended to be left on the skm or other keratinous tissue for some esthetic, prophylactic, therapeutic or other benefit (i.e , a "leave-on" composition) After applying the composition to the keratinous tissue (e.g , skm), it is preferably left on for a period of at least about 15 mmutes, more preferably at least about 30 mmutes, even more preferably at least about 1 hour, most preferably for at least several hours, e.g , up to about 12 hours Any part of the external portion of the face, hair, and or nails can be treated, e g , face, lips, under-eye area, eyelids, scalp, neck, torso, arms, hands, legs, fingernails, toenails, scalp hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, etc The application of the present compositions may be done using, e.g., the palms of the hands and/or fingers, an implement, e g , a cotton ball, swab, pad etc

Another approach to ensure a continuous exposure of the keratinous tissue to at least a minimum level of the phytosterol is to apply the compound by use of a patch applied, e.g , to the face. Such an approach is particularly useful for problem skm areas needing more intensive treatment (e g., facial crows feet area, frown lines, under eye area, and the like). The patch can be occlusive, semi-occlusive or non- occlusive The phytosterol composition can be contained within the patch or be applied to the skm prior to application of the patch. The patch can also include additional actives such as chemical imtiators for exothermic reactions such as those described in PCT application WO 9701313 to Burkett et al. The patch is preferably left on the keratinous tissue for a period of at least about 5 minutes, more preferably at least about 15 minutes, more preferably still at least about 30 minutes, even more preferably at least about 1 hour, most preferably at night as a form of night therapy

Examples

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the scope of the present invention The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Example 1

A skm cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

Blend the A phase components with a suitable mixer (e.g , Tekmar model RW20DZM), heating while stimng to a temperature of 70-80°C Separately, blend the B phase components with a suitable mixer and heat with mixing to melt the components. Separately, blend the C phase components and mill to obtam an acceptably smooth mixture (e g , using a Tekmar T50 Mill)

Add the C phase mixture to the B phase mixture and mix Then add the resulting mix to the A phase mixture with mixing, cool with a cold water bath and mill, then continue stirring Remove the combmation from the bath, with continued stiπing, once the temperature reaches 40°C.

Separately, blend the D phase components by stimng until dissolved, and then add this to the combmation of A-C materials

Separately, blend the E phase components by mixing until smooth and continuous, and then add this to the combmation of the A-D materials Add and mix the fragrance, then the NaOH. Adjust the pH as necessary to 5.5

Apply the composition to a subject's intrinsically aged, sagging or photodamaged facial skin at the rate of 2 mg composition/cm^ skin once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to increase skin thickness and dimmish skm sagging

Example 2 An emulsion is prepared by conventional methods from the following components:

Form the water phase in a suitable vessel charged with the water as follows add the glycerin to the water with stimng Add to this mixture with stimng the methyl paraben dissolved m the benzyl alcohol. Add to this mixture with stimng the EDTA

Form the sihcone phase in a separate suitable vessel by adding and stimng together the sihcone fluids and the stigmasterol

Add the water phase to the sihcone phase slowly with stimng to form the emulsion Apply the resulting composition to a subject's intrinsically aged, sagging or photodamaged facial skin at the rate of 2 mg

skm once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to increase skm thicknes and diminish skm saggmg.

Example 3 A skin cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

* A C1-C30 monoester or polyester of sugars and one or more carboxyhc acid moieties as described herein, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the degree of estenfication is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C18 mono- and/or di-unsaturated and behenic acids, m a molar ratio of unsaturates:behemc acid of 1:7 to 3:5, more preferably the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule, e g., sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids. Blend the A phase components with a suitable mixer (e.g., Tekmar model RW20DZM), heating while stimng to a temperature of about 70-80°C. Add the cetyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose and methyl paraben with mixing at about 70-80°C to melt the components Separately, blend the C phase components and mill to obtain an acceptably smooth mixture (e.g., using a Tekmar T50 Mill).

Add the C phase mixture to the above mixture and mix Remove the combination from the bath, with continued stimng, once the temperature reaches about 45°C. Add the dimethicone and mix

Separately, blend the E phase components by mixing until smooth and continuous, and then add this to the above mixture. Add and mix in the benzyl alcohol, then the NaOH. Adjust the pH as necessary to 7.

Apply the composition to a subject's intrinsically aged, sagging or photodamaged facial sk at the rate of 2 mg

skin once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to mcrease skm thickness and diminish skm sagging

Example 4 A skin cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

* See Example 3

Blend the A phase components with a suitable mixer (e g , Tekmar model RW20DZM). Blend the B phase components into the A phase with a suitable mixer Separately, blend the C phase components until they are uniform Add the C phase mixture to the A/B phase mixture, mix until umform and emulsified, and then mill to obtain an acceptably smooth mixture (e g , using a Tekmar T50 Mill).

Apply the composition to a subject's intrinsically aged, sagging, or photodamaged facial skm at the rate of 2 mg

skin once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to increase skm thickness and dimmish skin saggmg

An alternative skin cream havmg reduced retinol levels can be prepared in the same manner from the above components wherein the retinol is added in an amount of 0.025% (0 25% of 10% retinol in soybean oil), quo sme to 100% with water, the amounts of the other components being as shown

Example 5

A skin cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components

* See Example 3

In an appropriate vessel add and heat the water to approximately 70 to 75°C Blend in remaining components of Phase A under agitation until entire mixmre reaches 70 to 75° Separately, blend the PPG- 15 stearyl ether and the fatty acid ester of sugar under agitation and heat to 70 to 75°C Once the desired temperature is reached, add the propylparaben (dissolve completely before adding other components) Next, add the stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-21 and steareth-2 under agitation and heat rmxture to 70 to 75°C. Once mixture reaches desired temperature (75°), add Phase B to Phase A and mix for 5 mmutes. Continue mixing and begin to cool the batch. Once batch mixture reaches 55°C, add the dimethicone Mix the batch for 10 mmutes, cool to 40°C and mill to obtain an acceptably smooth mixture.

Apply the composition to a subject's intrinsically aged, sagging, or photodamaged facial skm at the rate of 2 mg composition crcr skin once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to increase skin thickness and dimmish skin sagging.

Example 6 A skin cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

* See Example 3

2 Available as Fytosterol-85 from Fytokem

In an appropriate vessel add and heat the water to approximately 70 to 75°C. Blend in remaining components of Phase A under agitation until entire mixture reaches 70 to 75°. Separately, blend the PPG-

15 stearyl ether and the fatty acid ester of sugar under agitation and heat to 70 to 75°C. Once the desired temperature is reached, add the propylparaben (dissolve completely before adding other components)

Next, add the stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-21, steareth-2, and Fytosterol-85 under agitation and heat mixmre to 70 to 75°C Once mixture reaches desired temperature (75°), add Phase B to Phase A and mix for 5 mmutes. Continue mixing and begin to cool the batch Once batch mixture reaches 55°C, add the dimethicone Mix the batch for 10 mmutes, cool to 40°C and mill to obtain an acceptably smooth mixmre

Apply the composition to a subject's skm compromised by events like acne, scratch, msect bite, sunburn, etc., at the rate of 10 mg

skm 2-4 times daily for a period of at least 1-2 weeks to prevent development of post- inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Example 7 A skm cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

* Available as Fytosterol-85 from Fytokem

Blend the A phase components with a suitable mixer (e g , Tekmar model RW20DZM), heatmg while stiπmg to a temperature of 70-80°C Separately, blend the B phase components with a suitable mixer and heat with mixing to melt the components Separately, blend the C phase components and mill to obtain an acceptably smooth mixture (e g , using a Tekmar T50 Mill)

Add the C phase mixture to the B phase mixture and mix Then add the resulting mix to the A phase mixmre with mixing, cool with a cold water bath and mill, then contmue stirring Remove the combmation from the bath, with continued stiπmg, once the temperature reaches 40°C.

Separately, blend the D phase components by stirring until dissolved, then add this to the combination of A-C matenals.

Separately, blend the E phase components by mixing until smooth and continuous, then add this to the combination of the A-D materials Add and mix the fragrance, then the NaOH Adjust the pH as necessary to 5 5

Apply the resultmg composition to a subject's intrinsically aged or photodamaged facial skm at the rate of 2 mg composition cm^ skin once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to increase skm thickness and to reduce the size of pores

Example 8 An emulsion is prepared by conventional methods from the following components:

Form the water phase in a suitable vessel charged with the water as follows- add the glycerin to the water with stimng Add to this mixture with stimng the methyl paraben dissolved in the benzyl alcohol Add to this mixture with stimng the EDTA

Form the sihcone phase m a separate suitable vessel by adding and stiπmg together the sihcone fluids and the campesterol

Add the water phase to the sihcone phase slowly with stimng to form the emulsion Apply the resulting composition to a subject's intrinsically aged or photodamaged facial skm at the rate of 2 mg composition/cm² skm once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to increase skm thickness and to reduce the size of pores

Example 9 A skm cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

See Example 3

Blend the A phase components with a suitable mixer (e g , Tekmar model RW20DZM), heating while stimng to a temperature of about 70-80°C Add the cetyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose and methyl paraben with mixing at about 70-80°C to melt the components Separately, blend the C phase components and mill to obtain an acceptably smooth mixture (e g , using a Tekmar T50 Mill) Add the C phase mixture to the above mixture and mix Remove the combmation from the bath, with contmued stimng, once the temperature reaches about 45°C. Add the dimethicone and mix.

Separately, blend the E phase components by mixing until smooth and continuous, then add this to the above mixture. Add and mix m the benzyl alcohol, then the NaOH. Adjust the pH as necessary to 7.

Apply the composition to a subject's intrinsically aged, saggmg or photodamaged facial skm at the rate of 2 mg

skin once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to increase skm thickness and dimmish skm saggmg.

Examples 10-12 A skm cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

1 See Example 3

Blend the A phase components with a suitable mixer (e.g , Tekmar model RW20DZM). Blend the B phase components into the A phase with a suitable mixer Separately, blend the C phase components until they are uniform Add the C phase mixture to the A B phase mixture, mix until uniform and emulsified, and then mill to obtain an acceptably smooth mixture (e g., using a Tekmar T50 Mill).

Apply the composition to a subject's intrinsically aged, sallow, or photodamaged facial skin at the rate of 2 mg

skin once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to increase skm thickness and diminish skin sallowness. Examples 13-16 Oil-in-water emulsions are prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulating techniques.

See Example 3 2 Available as Fytosterol-85 from Fytokem

-> A predispersion of ammonium polyacrylate treated T1O2, water, glycerm, and ammonium zirconium carbonate

4 A predispersion of chitosan treated T1O2 and butylene glycol First, mix (using propeller type mixer) phase A ingredients in a suitable size vessel and heat to 70-75°C. In a separate vessel mix phase B ingredients and heat to 70-75°C. At 70-75°C, add phase B to phase A while continuing to mix. Then add phase C to the batch mixture of phases A B while continuing to mix. The phase C component allows neutralization of the mixture In a separate vessel, mix Phase D until umform and then add to the batch mixture of phases A/B/C while contmumg to mix Cool to 50°C. Mix Phase E mgredients until uniform and then add to the batch mixture of phases A-D while continuing to mix. Then add Phase F ingredient to the batch mixmre of A-E and contmue to cool to about 35°C Mixing is contmued until the resulting batch mixture is uniform

Apply the composition to a subject's intrinsically aged, sallow, or photodamaged facial skm at the rate of 2 mg

skin once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to increase skm thickness and dimmish skm sallowness

Examples 17-18 The emulsions are prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulating techniques.

1 Available as Fytosterol-85 from Fytokem

First, mix and heat phases A and B in separate containers to 70-75 °C. Add phase B to A and mill for 1 - 3 mm Mix phases C and D in separate contamers While mixing, add phase C to A/B mixture. Add phase D to A/B/C rmxture. Cool the batch to 60-65 °C. At 65 °C, add Polyacrylamιde/C13-C14 ιsoparaffin laureth-7 to the batch and mix for 3 - 5 mm While mixing, cool the batch to 45-50°C. At 50°C, add Benzyl alcohol, phase E, Dimethicone/Dimethiconol and perfume one at a time. Continue mixing and cool the batch to 35°C. At this temperature, mill the batch until the mixture is uniform.

Apply the composition to a subject's sun exposed skin at the rate of 2 mg

skm prior to and durmg sun exposure to prevent and/or retard tanmng, sallowness, and other signs of prematured agmg in skm.

Examples 19-22

The compositions shown below can be prepared by any conventional method known in the art

1 Available as Fytosterol-85 from Fytokem

Dissolve all water-soluble ingredients but the ascorbate phosphate salts and sodium citrate and heat the solution to about 75 °C Prepare the water solution of ascorbate phosphate salt and sodium citrate in a separate vessel and cool the rmxture to about 40°C Combine the two water solutions and keep the temperamre at about 75 °C While heatmg, mix the structuring ingredients, the lipophilic ingredients including phytosterol, to about 80°C. While mixing, add the oil phase to the water phase Mill the mixture and cool the batch to about 35°C. Add the titanium dioxide and glycerin to the rmxture and continue milling until a uniform mixture is achieved

Apply the resulting composition to a subject's intrinsically aged or photodamaged facial or hand skin at the rate of 2 mg

skin once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to improve skm tone evenness.

While particular embodiments of the subject invention have been described, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications to the subject invention can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention It is intended to cover, in the appended claims, all such modifications that are within the scope of the subject invention

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS.

1. A method of regulatmg the condition of mammalian keratmous tissue characterized m that said method comprises the step of topically applying to the skm of a mammal m need of such treatment, a safe and effective amount of a composition compπsmg. a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consistmg of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spmasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof; and b) a dermatologically acceptable earner for the phytosterol.

2. A method of thickenmg the skm and preventing, retardmg, and or treatmg skm atrophy of a mammal characterized m that said method comprises the step of topically applying to the skm of a mammal in need of such treatment, a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising: a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, -spmasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof; and b) a dermatologically acceptable earner for the phytosterol.

3 A method of preventmg, retarding, and/or treating the appearance of dark, under-eye circles and/or puffy eyes characterized in that said method comprises the step of topically applying to the skm suπounding the eye of a mammal in need of such treatment, a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising- a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spinasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof; and b) a dermatologically acceptable earner for the phytosterol.

4. A method of preventing, retarding, and/or treatmg sallowness of mammalian skin characterized in that said method comprises the step of topically applying to mammalian skin m need of such treatment, a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising- a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spmasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof, and b) a dermatologically acceptable earner for the phytosterol

A method of preventing and/or retarding tanmng of mammalian skm characterized in that said method comprises the step of topically applying to the skin of a mammal m need of such treatment, a safe and effective amount of a composition compπsmg: a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consistmg of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spmasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combmations thereof; and b) a dermatologically acceptable earner for the phytosterol

A method of desquamating, exfohatmg, and/or mcreasing turnover m mammalian skin characterized in that said method comprises the step of topically applying to the skin of a mammal m need of such treatment a safe and effective amount of a composition compπsmg: a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spmasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof, and b) a dermatologically acceptable earner for the phytosterol

A method of regulating and/or reducing the size of pores in mammalian skin characterized in that said method comprises the step of topically applying to the skin of a mammal in need of such treatment, a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spmasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof, and b) a dermatologically acceptable earner for the phytosterol

A method of regulating the oily and or shiny appearance of mammalian skm characterized in that said method comprises the step of topically applying to the skm of the mammal in need of treatment a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising- a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spmasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combmations thereof; and b) a dermatologically acceptable earner for the phytosterol.

9. A method of preventing, retarding, and/or treating post- inflammatory hyperpigmentation characterized in that said method comprises the step of topically applying to the skin of a mammal in need of such treatment a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising: a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α-spinasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof; and b) a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the phytosterol.

10. A method of preventing and/or treating the appearance of cellulite in mammalian skin characterized in that said method comprises the step of topically applying to the skin of a mammal _{m n}eed of such treatment a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising: a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-aveπnasterol, lupenol, α-spinasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof; and b) a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the phytosterol.

11. A composition suitable for use in regulating keratinous tissue condition characterized in that said composition comprises: a) a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β- sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avεπnasterol. lupenol, α-spinasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof; and b) a safe and effective amount of a skin care active selected from the group consisting of: i) vitamin B₃ compounds; ii) flavonoids; hi) desquamatory actives; iv) anti-cellulitc agents; v) conditioning agents; vi) anti-inflammatory agents selected from the group consisting of salicylates, fenamates, bisabolol, propionic acid derivatives, and combinations thereof; vii) sunscreen actives viii) combinations thereof; and c) a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the phytosterol and the skin care active.

12. A composition suitable for use in regulating keratinous tissue condition, said composition con-prising: a) a safe and effective amount of a safe and effective amount of one or more phytosterols selected from the group consisting of β-sitosterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, Δ5-avennasterol, lupenol, α- spinasterol, stigmasterol, their derivatives, and combinations thereof;

RECTIFIED SHEET (RULE 91) ISA / L? b) a safe and effective amount of niacinamide; and c) a dermatologically acceptable caπier for the phytosterol and niacinamide.