WO2000061066A2

WO2000061066A2 - Cosmetic product and its use

Info

Publication number: WO2000061066A2
Application number: PCT/EP2000/003195
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jens Meyer; Dieter Goddinger; Winfried Seidel
Original assignee: Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh & Co. Kg
Priority date: 1999-04-12
Filing date: 2000-04-11
Publication date: 2000-10-19
Also published as: DE19916335A1; WO2000061066A3; AU4542300A; AU4117000A; WO2000061099A1

Abstract

The invention relates to aqueous cosmetic products on the basis of a mild tenside for treating hair or the skin which contain: as the tenside at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid (A) of the general formula (I), wherein X is H or a -CH2COOR group, Y is H or -OH with the proviso that Y is H if X is -CH2COOR, R, R?1 and R2¿ are independently a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom or alkaline earth atom, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a group Z which stems from a polyhydroxylated organic compound that is selected from the group consisting of etherified (C¿6?-C18)-alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide moieties and etherified aliphatic (C6-C16)-hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl groups, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R?1 or R2¿ is a group Z. The cosmetic products further contain at least one care agent (B), selected from the group of protein hydrolysates and their derivatives (B1), quaternary ammonium compounds (B2), insoluble silicone compounds (B3) and synthetic or natural oily, fatty or paraffin components (B4). The inventive cosmetic products are characterized in that they are exceptionally mild and have excellent care properties.

Description

"Cosmetics and Use"

The invention relates to aqueous cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair or skin, which are formulated on a mild surfactant basis, and to the use of these compositions for cleaning hair and skin.

The cleaning and care of skin and hair as well as the decorative design of the hairstyle are important components of human body care. The efforts to make optimized products available to the hairdresser as well as the end user are correspondingly great. One focus of the development work is of course on the actual product properties, be it the cleaning effect of a shampoo, a shower bath or a liquid soap, the care effect of a hair treatment or skin cream, the coloring properties of a colorant or a tint, the quality of a perm or the hairstyle hold of a setting or Hair sprays. At the same time, attempts are increasingly being made to prevent possible undesirable side effects, such as can occur in certain consumer groups such as allergy sufferers or very sensitive people. This led, for example, to the development of particularly skin-friendly surfactant systems for cleaning agents. In particular, there is a desire to provide formulations based on very mild ingredients for products that can also come into contact with the eyes unintentionally as part of the application.

Such very mild agents are not accepted by the consumer if other essential product properties are significantly worse or are considered to be worse. In many cases, shampoos based on very mild surfactant mixtures foam significantly less. A large amount of foam is often equated by the consumer with a good cleaning effect, so that he sees deficits here. Furthermore, awaken hair that is washed with such mildly formulated shampoos become a blunt impression. The same applies, for example, to shower rooms.

It is therefore still the task to provide agents for the treatment of hair and skin which are distinguished on the one hand by a very mild surfactant base and on the other hand by excellent product performance.

It has now surprisingly been found that compositions with certain mild surfactants in combination with special care substances are both extremely mild and have excellent product performance. The care effects that can be achieved by using these agents on the hair clearly exceed those obtained when these care agents are used in agents based on other surfactants.

The invention therefore relates to aqueous cosmetic compositions for treating the hair or the skin on a mild surfactant base, which contain as surfactant at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bicarbonic acid or tricarboxylic acid (A) with the general formula (I),

HO - C - COOR ¹ (I)

I.

Y - CH - COOR ²

in the

XH or a -CH ₂ COOR group,

YH or -OH is, provided that X is when X is -CH ₂ COOR, R, R "and R ² independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic Base or a radical Z which is derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group consisting of etherified (C ₆ -C ₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C, ₆ ) - .

Hydroxyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, is selected, on the condition that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, and at least one care substance (B) selected from

Protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives (B1), quaternary ammonium compounds (B2), insoluble silicone compounds (B3) and synthetic or natural oil, fat or wax components (B4).

The compounds of formula (I) are, for example, from European Patent EP-B1-0 258 814 and from the articles by N. Bums, Drug Cosmet. Ind. 160 (3), 42 (1997) and T. Verzotti et al., Cosmetic News XX-112, 29 (1997). However, this prior art does not provide any indication of the agents according to the invention.

The preparation of the compounds of the formula (I) is described in detail in European Patent EP-B1-0 258 814. With regard to the individual representatives defined by the general formula (I), express reference is made to the content of this European patent specification, in particular the passage from page 2, line 43, to page 5, line 56.

In the context of the present invention, R, R ¹ and R ² preferably represent alkali metal cations, in particular the sodium ion, alkaline earth metal cations, in particular the magnesium ion, and the ammonium ion.

The group Z is preferably an etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharide. Group Z preferably contains glucose as the saccharide.

C ₆ -C ₆ -alkyl groups in particular are used as alkyl groups, the choice of unbranched saturated groups being preferred. The alkyl groups can, however, also be mixtures which are obtained when natural fats and oils are processed. Mixtures consisting essentially of C ₈ -C ₁₀ alkyl groups, C _I2 -C ₁₄ alkyl groups or

C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl groups can be preferred according to the invention. A mixture of alkyl groups, such as is obtained when coconut oil is processed, is very particularly preferred. Group Z contains 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units. According to a preferred embodiment, group Z contains 2 to 6 glucose units. However, it may also be preferred to use groups Z with 1.2 to 3, in particular 1.3 to 2, glucose units. It should be noted that mixtures always arise in the synthesis, and these numerical values are derived from the stoichiometric ratio of the starting substances fatty alcohol and saccharide.

The compounds according to formula (I) are derivatives of citric acid, tartaric acid or malic acid. Such compounds which are derivatives of citric acid and in particular tartaric acid are preferred according to the invention.

Commercial products, which are sold by the company Cesalpinia under the names Eucarol ^® AGE-ET and Eucarol ^® AGE-EC, have proven to be particularly suitable representatives of the compounds of the formula (I).

The agents according to the invention can of course also contain more than one surfactant (A) of the formula (I).

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the compounds of formula (I) in amounts of 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, particularly preferably in amounts of 1 to 5% by weight and in particular in amounts of about 2 to 3% by weight. -%, each based on the total mean.

As a second mandatory component, the agents according to the invention contain a special care substance (B). According to a first embodiment of the invention, the care substance (B) is selected from protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives (B1).

Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures that are obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed breakdown of proteins (proteins). The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolyzates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana), Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Kerasol ^® (Croda) sold.

According to the invention, the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, e.g. B. soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda).

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates as such is preferred, amino acid mixtures obtained in some other way or individual amino acids such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid may also be used in their place.

Derivatives of protein hydrolyzates preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolyzates and protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products.

In the case of the cationized protein hydrolyzates, the underlying protein hydrolyzate can be obtained from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates. This protein hydrolyzate can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. Preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are those whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 Daltons. Cationic protein hydrolyzates also include quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention are those under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 * Street, NW, Suite 300 , Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HC1, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Case in, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin,

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzedinedium Hydrolyzedium Lauryl, Hydroxyl Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydropolyethyl Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Protein Hydroxy Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Col , Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. The plant-based cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are very particularly preferred.

Protein hydrolyzate fatty acid condensates are for example sold under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda). Lauryl acid, oleic acid, abietic acid and undecylenic acid and natural fatty acid mixtures, such as coconut oil fatty acid, are preferred fatty acid components.

The protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives are contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, are very particularly preferred.

According to a second embodiment of the invention, the care substance (B) is a quaternary ammonium compound (B2). According to the invention, quaternary ammonium compounds are understood to mean both those compounds which permanently have a quaternary ammonium group and also tertiary amines which, depending on the medium and pH, can be present as quaternary ammonium salts.

Quaternary ammonium compounds preferred according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium salt, esterquat and alkylamidoamine type.

Preferred quaternary ammonium salts are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83 compounds imidazolium.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex ^® , Dehyquart ^® and Armocare ^® . The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats .

The alkylamidoamines are usually produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. This is assumed by a compound from this group of substances which is particularly suitable according to the invention the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially available stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine.

The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

The care substances (B2) are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred.

According to a third embodiment of the invention, the care substance (B) is an insoluble silicone compound (B3).

For the purposes of the invention, “insoluble” are those silicone compounds which are present in the respective water surfactant base of the agent, ie in the mixture of the components water and surfactants in the appropriate amounts, to less than 0.1% by weight, based on these Water / surfactant base, are soluble.

Silicone compounds which can be used according to the invention are, for example, dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and

Methylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as their hydroxy-terminated, alkoxylated and quaternized analogues. Examples of such silicones are the products sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 from Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning ^® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80). Silicone compounds (B3) preferred according to the invention are dialkylsiloxanes, dialkylsiloxanes with terminal hydroxyl groups, alkylarylsiloxanes and siloxanes with amino groups.

The silicone compounds (B3) are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.05-10, in particular 0.05-3,% by weight are particularly preferred.

According to a fourth embodiment of the invention, the care substance (B) is a synthetic or natural oil, fat or wax component (B4).

According to a first preferred variant of this embodiment, component (B4) is selected from fatty alcohols and fatty acids.

Saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ carbon atoms can be used as fatty alcohols. For the purposes of the invention, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, whereby this list is meant to be exemplary and not limiting. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, and it can usually be assumed that they are obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. Also suitable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rape oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , for example Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® , for example Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^® , e.g. Lorol ^® C8, Lorol ^® C14, Lorol ^® C18, Lorol ^® C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^® , Crodacol ^® , e.g. Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^® , Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 are commercially available. Of course, the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight.

Linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms can be used as fatty acids. Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, galeoachenic acid, galeoacheneic acid, elenachearic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred. The amount used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total agent. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being very particularly advantageous.

According to a second preferred variant of this embodiment, component (B4) is selected from mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons, dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. An inventively employable synthetic hydrocarbon, for example, l the available as commercial products Compound E, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S)

Dialkyl ethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di- n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well Di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The di-n-octyl ether is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

The dialkyl carbonates which can be used according to the invention are obtainable by complete transesterification of low molecular weight dialkyl carbonates, for example dimethyl carbonate or diethyl carbonate, with, for example, fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms or their ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide addition products. According to the invention particularly suitable for the symmetrical transesterification is di-n-octyl carbonate, which is obtainable by the transesterification of n-octanol (capryl alcohol), and is sold under the trade name Cetiol ^® CC.

Further dialkyl carbonates which can be used according to the invention have branched alkyl groups. A commercially available product of this type is e.g. di- (2-hexyldecyl) carbonate, which is obtained by transesterification of diethyl carbonate with 2-hexyl-decanol, a Guerbet alcohol, and is also referred to as "Guerbet carbonate". Another preferred dialkyl carbonate with branched alkyl chains is the di- (2-ethylhexyl) carbonate.

Another group of dialkyl carbonates preferred according to the invention is accessible through the complete transesterification of low molecular weight dialkyl carbonates, for example dimethyl carbonate or diethyl carbonate, with the ethylene oxide and or propylene oxide addition products of fatty alcohols. Such ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols are available under various trade names. Ethoxylated C _g . ₁₀ fatty alcohols are, for example under the name of Lorol ^®, ethoxylated C _12th ₁₄ fatty alcohols, for example under the name Dehydol ^® and ethoxylated C ₁₆ . ₁₈ fatty alcohols, for example under the name Mergital ^® from Cognis. The preferred addition products have a degree of ethoxylation of 2-7. According to the invention particularly preferred dialkyl carbonates are accessible from the transesterification with Dehydol ^® products. Finally, compounds of the 1,3-dioxolan-2-one type, which can be regarded as the cyclic carbonate of a vicinal glycol, can also be used according to the invention. Such compounds are obtainable by transesterifying dimethyl carbonate or diethyl carbonate with, for example, 1,2-propylene glycol or glycerin. Which is for example commercialized under the name Solvenon ^® PC (BASF) According to the invention particularly preferred "cyclic dialkyl carbonates" are 4-methyl-l, 3-dioxolan-2-one, and 4-hydroxymethyl-l, 3-dioxolan-2- on.

Other, though less preferred, are fat, oil and wax components

• solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, walrus, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes made of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

• vegetable oils in quantities of at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total agent. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil. However, other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.

• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 -ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate and neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, The amount of care substances (B4) used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1-20% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1-15% by weight.

It may be preferred to use the care substances (B4) in the form of aqueous dispersions. An example of such a dispersion is the commercial product Lamesoft ^® PW 45.

The agents according to the invention contain water as the third mandatory component.

The pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 9, in particular between 3 and 7, values from 4 to 5.5 being particularly preferred. Virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH. Food acids are usually used as acids. Edible acids are understood to mean those acids that are ingested as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Edible acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

According to the invention, the cosmetic agent is not subject to any restrictions. In principle, all types of agents also available on the market, in particular the above-mentioned preparations, come into consideration.

However, the mildness of the preparations according to the invention is particularly important in agents for treating the hair and skin, in particular for cleaning and maintaining the hair and skin. According to a first preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is a hair cleanser (shampoo), a shower bath, a foam bath or a liquid soap. Shampoos and shower baths are preferred representatives of this embodiment.

These agents can contain other ingredients known for such preparations.

The shampoos, shower baths, foam baths and liquid soaps according to the invention preferably contain at least one further surfactant as a cleaning component. This is selected in particular from the group of anionic, ampholytic, - weatherionic and nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

- linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

- Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, 10

Monosulfonic succinate and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the

Alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 24 C-

Atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 C atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 C atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6

Double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22

Represent carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

O

II R (OCH2CH2) π- O - P - OR '

I OX

in which R is preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 'for hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R or X, n for numbers from 1 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR'R ² R ³ R ⁴ , with R ¹ to R ⁴ independently of one another being hydrogen or a C to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M, in which RCO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and or unsaturated Acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M for a cation, as described in DE OS 197 36 906.5 are described,

- Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

CH2θ (CH2CH2θ) z-SO3X

in the RCO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22, in particular 8 to 18, carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X for an alkali or Alkaline earth metal is available, as described, for example, in EP-Bl 0 561 825, EP-Bl 0 561 999, DE-Al 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and F.U.Ahmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990). Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride, as well as their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfuric acid dioxide or their sodium sulfate form.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl ester with 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^w

- or wear an -SO ₃ ^w group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example that lo

Cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts . Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N- alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-

Alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

- Adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, with fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group ,

- Adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide end-capped with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical to linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, to fatty acids with 8 to 30 C- Atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis),

C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,

- polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),

- alkoxylated triglycerides,

- Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula RCO- (OCH ₂ CHR ') _w OR ", in which RCO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R' for hydrogen or methyl, R 'for linear or branched alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20,

Amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates,

- sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

- adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides,

- Alkyl polyglycosides according to the general formula RO- (Z) _x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention may contain only one specific alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the respective working up of these compounds.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides in which R essentially from C ₈ and C ₁₀ alkyl groups,

essentially from C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,

- essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ - alkyl groups or

- essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or

- consists essentially of C _t6 to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block Z. Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used. Examples of such sugars are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar units are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain an average of 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values from 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8 are very particularly preferred.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

The alkylene oxide adducts with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, each with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, have proven to be further preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. These connections are characterized by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using The so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials predominate compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologues which are obtained as catalysts when fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide are reacted using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. By contrast, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.

The surfactants are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1-15% by weight, based on the total agent. Shampoos according to the invention contain the further cleaning components of the shampoos according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 5.0 to 40% by weight, in particular from 5.0 to 20% by weight, based on the particular preparation.

Preparations of particularly great mildness are obtained if, in addition to the surfactants (A), a zwitterionic surfactant, in particular of the betaine type, is used. Anionic and / or nonionic surfactants can then be added as further surfactants. A combination of four surfactants, consisting of

Surfactants (A) according to formula (I), zwitterionic surfactants, in particular of the betaine type, anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts, and

Nonionic surfactants, in particular of the alkyl glycoside type, have proven to be outstandingly suitable according to the invention.

The agents according to the invention preferably also contain at least one organic thickener. Such thickeners are, for example, thickeners such as agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ethers, gelatin, pectins and / or xanthan gum. Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular those with limited homolog distribution as they are, for example, as a commercial product under the name Arlypon ^® F (Henkel) on the market, alkoxylated methyl glucoside, such as the product Glucamate ^® DOE 120 (Amerchol), and ethoxylated Propylenglykolester, such as the product Antil ^® 141 (Goldschmidt) can be preferred organic thickeners.

In a preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, the effect can be increased further using polymers. Polymers are understood to mean both natural and synthetic polymers which can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which can be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" means those polymers which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent. These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups In particular those polymers in which the quaternary Ammonium group via a C-hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have been found to be particularly suitable.

Homopolymers of the general formula, R

I - [CH ₂ -C-] _n X-

I CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _ra -N ⁺ R'R '' R "'

in which R = -H or -CH ₃ , R ', R "and R'" are independently selected from C-alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of these monomer units and nonionic monomer units are particularly suitable cationic polymers. Those polymers in which R, R ', R" and R '"stand for methyl groups and has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically compatible counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Halide ions, in particular chloride, are preferred.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or AUyl ether of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent. The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content below 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (TNCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (approx. 50% polymer content, further components: mixture of diester of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Copolymers preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, C- _M alkyl acrylate and C-alkyl methacrylate as non-ionic monomer units. Among these nonionic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred. As in the case of the homopolymers described above, these copolymers can also be crosslinked. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Other preferred cationic polymers are, for example

- Quaternized cellulose derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® . The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives,

cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

cationic guar derivatives, such as, in particular, the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia ^® Guar and Jaguar ^® ,

- Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as those commercially available

Products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning ^® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino modified silicone, which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80 ), - polymeric Dimemyldiallylammoniumsalze and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products commercially available under the names Merquat ^® 100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially, vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552nd quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as those under the names

Polyquaternium 2,

Polyquaternium 17,

Polyquaternium 18 and

Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Likewise usable according to the invention are the copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, such as those available as commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are. O 00/61066 ₂₆

Other cationic polymers of the invention are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic are preferred, for example, chitosan and its derivatives, such as, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^®. CMF, Hydagen ^® HCMF, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially Chitosans are deacetylated chitins which are commercially available in different degrees of deacetylation and different degrees of degradation (molecular weights) .They are produced, for example, in DE 44 40 625 AI and described in DE 1 95 03 465 AI.

Chitosans which are particularly suitable have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 ^× 10 ⁵ to 5 ^× 10 ⁶ (g / mol).

To prepare preparations according to the invention, the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. This can be done by dissolving in dilute aqueous acids. Mineral acids such as e.g. Hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid as well as organic acids, e.g. low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids are suitable. Higher molecular weight alkyl sulfonic acids or alkyl sulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids can also be used, provided that they have the required physiological compatibility. Suitable acids for converting the chitosan to the salt form are e.g. Acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such as e.g. Glycolic acid or lactic acid is used.

The anionic polymers are polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt are present. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt .

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid is obtainable for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 commercially.

In this embodiment, it may be preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer can also be crosslinked, with polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, AUylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene bisacrylamide preferably being used as crosslinking agents. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component, a hydrocarbon mixture (C, ₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (Laureth-7) has been found to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention.

Also, as a compound with isohexadecane and sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 Polysorbate-80 sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers have proven effective as in the present invention particularly.

Also preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers. A cross-linked with 1,9-decadiene maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers in the agents according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule ^" - or -SO ₃ ^* groups, and summarized such polymers that contain -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ^® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and its simple esters. Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are those in British Offenlegungsschrift 2 104 091, European Offenlegungsschrift 47 714, the European laid-open specification 217 274, European laid-open specification 283 817, German laid-open specification 28 17 369 and in particular the compounds mentioned in German laid-open specification 39 29 973.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / Ninylester copolymers, as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALOΝ).

- Shellac

- polyvinylpyrrolidones, as, for example, sold under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

- Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 B1.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.

According to the invention, the term polymer is also to be understood as meaning special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Such a method is known, for example, from EP 466 986 B1. Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 μm are particularly suitable. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, under the trademark Polytrap ^® Q5- 6603 (Dow Corning). Other polymer powders, e.g. based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) are available with a particle size of 2 - 10 μm (90%) and a specific surface area of approx. 10 m ² / g under the trade name Orgasol ^® 2002 DU Nat Cos ( Atochem SA, Paris) available. Further spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene - Powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or also silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or spherical cellulose powder.

The polymers are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight are particularly preferred.

As already mentioned above, the agents according to the invention are not subject to any fundamental restrictions with regard to their intended use. Hair treatment agents can be, for example, shampoos, hair rinses, hair treatments, permanent waving agents (wave lotions, fixatives), hair colorants, hair tinting agents, hair setting agents, hair sprays, hair lotions or hair tip fluids. Depending on the intended use, the preparations can be formulated as solutions, emulsions, gels, creams, aerosols or lotions; they can remain on the hair or, after a short exposure time, which can be preferred, rinsed out again.

For the formulation of very mild preparations in particular, it has also proven to be advantageous if the amount of dissolved inorganic salts is limited to less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight. It should also be noted that such salts are not only e.g. to adjust the viscosity, but can also be introduced by other active ingredients, in particular surfactants.

Other common ingredients for the agents according to the invention are: structurants such as lactic acid and maleic acid, hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin,

Egg lecithin and cephaline,

Perfume oils, especially those with the fragrance of a fruit, such as apple, pear, strawberry, peach, apricot, pineapple, banana, cherry, kiwi,

Mango, coconut, almond, grapefruit, passion fruit, tangerine and melon, or the

Fragrance note of a luxury food, such as tobacco, cola, chewing gum,

Guarana, chocolate, cocoa, vanilla, sarsaparilla, peppermint and rum.

Dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, diethylene glycol and ethoxylated triglycerides,

Dyes,

Anti-dandruff agents such as climbazole, piroctone olamine and zinc omadine,

Active ingredients such as bisabolol, allantoin and plant extracts, fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular of groups A, B, C, E,

F and H, and particularly preferably panthenol and its derivatives as well

Ncotinamide and biotin quaternized amines such as methyl l-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,

Defoamers like silicones, soluble silicone oils

Light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and

Triazines,

Cholesterol,

Ceramides. Ceramides include N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of

Sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (so-called pseudo-

Ceramides) understood

Pigments,

Deoxy sugar,

Plant glycosides,

Polysaccharides such as fucose or rhamnose. Consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether,

Carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,

Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate or PEG-3 distearate, direct dyes, so-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dye precursors,

Reducing agents such as Thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cytamine, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

Oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate,

Blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air as well

Antioxidants,

Bitter substances, such as, for example, Denatonium Benzoate,

Preservative.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, e.g. B. the monograph by Kh. Schrader, basics and recipes of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

There are no fundamental restrictions with regard to the manner in which the active ingredient according to the invention is applied to the keratin fiber, in particular human hair, and to the skin. These preparations include, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, water, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions based on the teaching of phase inversion, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, single or multi-phase shake mixes, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols are suitable. These are in usually formulated on an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic basis. Lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used as the alcoholic component. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol can be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the alcohol / water mixture, can be preferred bases according to the invention.

In a particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, it can be preferred if the agents are present as a microemulsion. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are also understood to mean so-called “PIT” emulsions. In principle, these emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which at room temperature act as oil-in-water (O / W). When these systems are heated, microemulsions form in a certain temperature range (usually referred to as phase inversion temperature or “PIT”), which convert to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions when heated further. Upon subsequent cooling, O emulsions are again formed, but these are also present at room temperature as microemulsions with an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm, in particular with a particle diameter of about 100-300 nm. Details regarding these very stable, low-viscosity systems, for which the term “PIT emulsions” has generally become established, can be found in a large number of publications, for which the publications in Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) are representative. and Adv. Colloid Interface Sei 58, 119-149 (1995) According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions can be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.

The microemulsions according to the invention can be prepared, for example, by first determining the phase inversion temperature of the system by heating a sample of the emulsion prepared in the customary manner and using a conductivity meter to determine the temperature at which the conductivity decreases sharply. The decrease in specific conductivity initially Existing O / W emulsion generally decreases over a temperature range of 2 to 8 ° C from originally more than 1 mS / cm to values below 0.1 mS / cm. This temperature range then corresponds to the phase inversion temperature range. After the phase inversion temperature range is thus known, the emulsion, initially prepared as usual, from the oil component, nonionic emulsifier, at least parts of the water and optionally further components can be heated to a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range, then cooled and optionally add other components as well as the remaining water. Alternatively, the microemulsion can also be produced directly at a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range. The microemulsion thus produced is then cooled to a temperature below the phase inversion temperature range, usually room temperature.

The invention also relates to the use of an agent according to one of claims 1 to 16 for cleaning skin and hair.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.

Examples

Unless otherwise noted, all quantities are parts by weight. 1. Hair shampoos

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 70% active substance in water; INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (COGNIS)

N, N-Dimethyl-N-coconut amidopropylammonium acetobetaine (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name: Cocamidopropyl betaine) (CLARIANT) N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-2-hydroxyethylglycine sodium salt (approx. 50% active substance in water; INCI name : Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) (WITCO) neutralized ester of alkyl polyglucose with tartaric acid (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name (provisional): Sodium Cocopolyglucose Tartrate) (CESALPINIA) neutralized ester of alkyl polyglucose with citric acid (approx. 30% active substance in water ; rNCI name (provisional): Sodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate) (CESALPINIA)

C ₈ . ₁₄ -alkyl polyglucoside (approx. 52% active substance in water; INCI name: Coco Glucoside) (COGNIS)

C ₁₂ . ₁₄ - fatty alcohol + 2.5 ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-2) (COGNIS) dioctyl ether (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether) (COGNIS) D-panthenyl alcohol (75% active substance in water) (HOFFMANN LA-ROCHE) quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium- 10) (AMERCHOL)

Dimemyldiallylammom ^{'trimethylammonium} chloride-acrylamide copolymer (9% active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-7) (MERCK)

N, N-dimethyl-N'-stearoyl-1,3-diaminopropane (INCI name: Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine) (GOLDSCHMIDT)

Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate (2.5% active substance in water; INCI name: Aqua, Denatonium Benzoate) (MACFARLAN SMITH)

Hydroxy-4-methyl-6 (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone monoethanolamine salt (INCI name: Piroctone Olamine) (CLARIANT) Wheat protein hydrolyzate (approx. 18% active substance; INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (DGF STOESS)

Hexamethyldisiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone) (DOW CORNING) quaternized wheat protein hydrolyzate (approx. 33% active substance in water; INCI name: Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (GRÜNAU)

Wheat protein hydrolyzate fatty acid condensate (approx. 33% active substance in water; INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (GRÜNAU) N, N-Dimemyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (2-hydroxyhexadecyl) ammonium chloride (approx. 27% active substance in water; INCI name: Hydroxycetyl Hydroxyethal Dimonium Chloride) (COGNIS) C16-18 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS) Amphoteric surfactant-pearlescent mixture based on plants (INCI name: Aqua, Glycol Distearate, Glycerin, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Formic Acid) (COGNIS)

Claims

3 patent claims

1. Aqueous cosmetic agent for the treatment of hair or skin on a mild surfactant base, characterized in that it contains: as surfactant at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid (A) with the general formula (I),

HO - C - COOR ¹ (I)

I.

Y - CH - COOR ²

in the

XH or a -CH ₂ COOR group,

YH or -OH is, provided that when X is -CH ₂ COOR, Y is R, R, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z, which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound, from the group consisting of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, are selected, provided that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z and at least one care substance (B) selected from protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives (B1) , quaternary ammonium compounds (B2), insoluble silicone compounds (B3) and synthetic or natural oil, fat or wax components (B4).

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the radical Z of the compounds of the formula (I) is a polyglucose (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) monoalkyl ether having 1 to 6 glucose units.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydroxy-substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid is selected from tartaric acid and citric acid.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that a protein hydrolyzate is contained as care substances (B1)

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that a derivative of a protein hydrolyzate, selected from cationized protein hydrolyzates and protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensates, is contained as the care substance (B1).

6. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that a quaternary ammonium compound (B2) is contained as care substance (B).

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that an insoluble silicone compound (B3) is contained as care substance (B).

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the silicone compound (B3) is selected from the group formed by dialkylsiloxanes, dialkylsiloxanes with terminal hydroxyl groups, alkylarylsiloxanes and siloxanes with amino groups.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that a synthetic or natural oil, fat or wax component (B4) is contained as a care substance.

10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the care substance (B4) is selected from fatty alcohols and fatty acids.

11. Agent according to claim 9, characterized in that the care substance (B4) is selected from mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils, synthetic hydrocarbons, dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it is a hair cleaning agent, a shower bath, a foam bath or a liquid soap.

13. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains at least one further surfactant.

14. Composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the further surfactant is selected from anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that it contains a zwitterionic surfactant in combination with an anionic and / or a nonionic surfactant.

16. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it contains an organic thickener.

17. Use of an agent according to one of claims 1 to 16 for cleaning skin or hair.