Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
  • A61K8/66—Enzymes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
  • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

• the present invention relates to an oxidizing composition, intended for the treatment of keratin fibers comprising at least one enzyme of the 2-electron oxidoreductase type in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one amino silicone as well as its uses for dyeing, for permanent deformation or for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human hair.
• oxidation bases it is known to dye keratin fibers and in particular human hair with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular paraphenylenediamines, ortho or paraaminophenols, heterocyclic bases, generally called oxidation bases.
• oxidation dye precursors in particular paraphenylenediamines, ortho or paraaminophenols, heterocyclic bases, generally called oxidation bases.
• the precursors of oxidation dyes, or oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, can give rise, through an oxidative condensation process, to colored and coloring compounds.
• couplers or color modifiers the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic metadiamines, metaaminophenols, metadiphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds.
• the dyes must also make it possible to cover white hair, and finally be the least selective possible, that is to say allow to obtain the smallest possible color differences throughout the same keratin fiber, which can be in differently sensitized effect (ie damaged) between its tip and its root.
• the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers is generally carried out in an alkaline medium, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.
• alkaline media in the presence of hydrogen peroxide has the drawback of causing significant degradation of the fibers, as well as significant discoloration of the keratin fibers which is not always desirable.
• Oxidation coloring of keratin fibers can also be carried out using oxidizing systems other than hydrogen peroxide such as enzymatic systems.
• the reducing compositions which can be used for the implementation of the first step of a perming operation generally contain, as reducing agents, sulfites, bisulfites, alkyl phosphines or preferably thiols.
• reducing agents sulfites, bisulfites, alkyl phosphines or preferably thiols.
• those commonly used are cysteine and its various derivatives, cysteamine and its derivatives, thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid, their salts as well as their esters, in particular glycerol thioglycolate.
• compositions based on hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate or persalts such as sodium perborate which have the disadvantage of being liable to damage the hair.
• the problem with the technique of perms known to date is that their application to the hair induces in the long term an alteration in the quality of the hair.
• the main causes of this deterioration in the quality of the hair are a decrease in their cosmetic properties, such as their shine, touch and a degradation of their mechanical properties, more particularly a degradation of their mechanical resistance due to swelling of the keratin fibers during the rinsing between the reduction step and the oxidation step which can also result in an increase in their porosity.
• the hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as brushing.
• the present invention aims to solve the problems mentioned above.
• compositions containing at least as oxidizing system a 2-electron oxidoreductase type enzyme in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one amino silicone which can constitute in the presence of oxidation dye precursors (oxidation bases) and possibly couplers, ready-to-use dye formulations, leading to more homogeneous, more powerful and more chromatic dyes without causing significant degradation, not very selective and resistant well to the various aggressions which the hair can undergo.
• the Applicant has also unexpectedly discovered that the use in a process of permanent deformation of keratin fibers of an oxidizing composition containing at least as oxidizing system an enzyme of the oxidoreductase type with 2 electrons in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one amino silicone, made it possible to solve the technical problems mentioned above.
• this type of oxidizing composition makes it possible to improve the resistance to crimp obtained over time, significantly reduce the porosity of permanent hair, improve the compatibility of permanent hair with subsequent treatments.
• the Applicant has also surprisingly discovered that the use, in a process for bleaching keratin fibers, of an oxidizing composition containing at least as oxidizing system an enzyme of the oxidoreductase type with 2 electrons in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one amino silicone, made it possible to solve the technical problems mentioned above, in particular to improve the compatibility of bleached hair with subsequent treatments.
• This type of oxidizing composition makes it possible to obtain a more uniform bleaching effect on the hair and to improve cosmetic properties, such as touch.
• the present invention therefore has for first object a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers and more particularly human hair, comprising in a suitable support for keratin fibers: (a) at least an enzyme of the oxidoreductase type with 2 electrons in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme (b) at least one amino silicone.
• the 2-electron oxidoreductase (s) used in the oxidizing compositions in accordance with the invention can in particular be chosen from pyranose oxidases, glucose oxidases, glycerol oxidases, lactate oxidases, pyruvate oxidases, and uricases.
• the 2-electron oxidoreductase is preferably chosen from uricases of animal, microbiological or biotechnological origin.
• uricase extracted from boar liver the uricase of Arthrobacter globiformis, as well as the uricase of Aspergillus flavus.
• the 2-electron oxidoreductase (s) can be used in pure crystalline form or in a diluted form in an inert diluent for said 2-electron oxidoreductase.
• the 2-electron oxidoreductase (s) in accordance with the invention preferably represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight approximately of this weight.
• the term “donor” is intended to mean the various substrates also necessary for the operation of said one or more 2-electron oxidoreductases.
• the nature of the donor (or substrate) for said enzyme varies depending on the nature of the 2-electron oxidoreductase which is used.
• donor for pyranose oxidases mention may be made of D-glucose, L-sorbose and D-xylose
• a donor for glucose oxidases mention may be made of D-glucose
• glycerol oxidase donors there may be mentioned glycerol and dihydroxyacetone
• lactate oxidase donors there may be mentioned lactic acid and its salts
• the donor for pyruvate oxidases mention may be made of pyruvic acid and its salts
• uric acid and its salts mention may be made.
• the donor (s) (or substrates) used in accordance with the invention preferably represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition according to the invention and even more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. about this weight.
• amino silicone denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
• x and y are whole numbers depending on the molecular weight, generally such that said number molecular weight is between 5,000 and 500,000 approximately;
• G is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH, or C r C 8 alkyl group, for example methyl, a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
• R is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH 2 qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups:
• R 'can denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and
• R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
• R 2 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent CC 18 , for example C 1 -C 8 alkyleneoxy radical;
• Q " is a halide ion, in particular chloride; r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to
• silicone polymers When these silicone polymers are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their joint use with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants.
• R 3 denotes alkenyl and / or alkyl radicals having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, derived from tallow fatty acids, and known under the name CTFA "tallowtrimonium chloride", in association with a nonionic surfactant of formula : C 9 H 19 -C 6 H 4 - (OC 2 H 4 ) 10 -OH, known under the name "Nonoxynol 10".
• cetylammonium in combination with a nonionic surfactant of formula C 13 H 27 - (OC 2 H 4 ) 12 -OH, known under the name CTFA "trideceth-12".
• Another commercial product which can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the Dow Corning Company, comprising in combination, trimethylsilylamodimethicone of formula (III) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C 8 H 17 -C 6 H 4 - (OCH 2 CH 2 ) 40 -OH, known under the name CTFA "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of formula: C 12 H 25 - ( OCH 2 -CH 2 ) 6 -OH, known under the name CTFA "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.
• compositions in accordance with the invention contain the amino silicones defined above at weight contents which can be between 0.05% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 5% and even more preferably between 0.2 % and 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the present invention also relates to a ready-to-use composition for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, of the type comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least an oxidation base and, where appropriate, one or more couplers, which is characterized in that it contains: (a) at least one enzyme of the 2-electron oxidoreductase type in the presence of at least one donor for said enzyme
• oxidation base (s) used in the ready-to-use dye composition is not critical. They can in particular be chosen from paraphenylenediamines, double bases, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic oxidation bases.
• - R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C r -C 4 monohydroxyalkyl, C r -C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 4 alkoxy (C r C 4) alkyl (C C 4 ), C r C 4 alkyl substituted by a nitrogen, phenyl or 4'-aminophenyl group;
• R 5 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical DC 4 monohydroxyalkyl, C r -C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 4 alkoxy (C 1 -C 4) alkyl (C 1 - C 4) alkyl or in C r C 4 substituted by a nitrogen group;
• - R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, an alkyl radical in C r C 4 , monohydroxyalkyl in C r C 4l hydroxyalkoxy in CC 4 , acetylaminoalkoxy in CC 4 , mesylaminoalkoxy in C r C 4 or carbamoylaminoalkoxy in C r C 4 , - R 7 represents a hydrogen, halogen atom or an alkyl radical in CC 4 .
• a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom
• nitrogen groups of formula (V) above there may be mentioned in particular the amino, monoalky CC amino, dialkyl (CC 4 ) amino, trialkyl (CC 4 ) amino, monohydroxyalkyl (CC 4 ) amino, imidazolinium and ammonium radicals .
• paraphenylenediamines of formula (V) above there may be mentioned more particularly paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6- diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino N, N-diethyl 3-methyl aniline, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino 2-methyl aniline, 4-N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino 2- chloro aniline, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl para-phen
• paraphenylenediamines of formula (V) above very particularly preferred are paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2,6 paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro paraphenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -acetylaminoethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, and their 'addition with an acid.
• double bases is intended to mean compounds comprising at least two aromatic rings on which are carried amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
• double bases which can be used as oxidation bases in the dye compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of the compounds corresponding to the following formula (VI), and their addition salts with an acid:
• - Z, and Z 2 identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical or -NH 2 which can be substituted by an alkyl radical at 0, -0 4 or by a connecting arm Y;
• the link arm Y represents an alkylene chain comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, linear or branched which can be interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen groups and / or by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen atoms, sulfur or nitrogen, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy radicals in O, -Cg;
• R 8 and R 9 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl radical in 0, -0 ,,, monohydroxyalkyl in CC 4 , polyhydroxyalkyl in C 2 -C 4l aminoalkyl in 0, -0 4 or an arm Y bond;
• R 10 , R 11 ( R 12 , R 13 R 14 and R 15 , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linker Y or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;
• nitrogen groups of formula (VI) above there may be mentioned in particular the amino, monoalkyl (CC 4 ) amino, dialkyl (CC 4 ) amino, trialkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) amino, monohydroxyalkyKC ⁇ C ⁇ radicals amino, imidazolinium and ammonium.
• N, N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) 1, 3-diamino propanol, 1, 8-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) - 3,5-dioxaoctane or one of their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
• R 16 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl radical in C, -C 4 monohydroxyalkyl CC 4 alkoxy (C 1 -C 4) alkyl (C 1 -C 4) aminoalkyl, C r C 4 or hydroxyalkyl ⁇ -C aminoalkyl C r C 4 ,
• R 17 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom, a CC 4 alkyl radical, C ⁇ O monohydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl, C r C 4 aminoalkyl, CC 4 cyanoalkyl or alkoxy ( CC 4 ) alkyl (CC 4 ), it being understood that at least one of the radicals R 16 or R 17 represents a hydrogen atom.
• para-aminophenols of formula (VII) above there may be mentioned more particularly para-aminophenol, 4-amino 3-methyl phenol, 4-amino 3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol , 4-amino 2-methyl phenol, 4-amino 2-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino 2-methoxymethyl phenol, 4-amino 2-aminomethyl phenol, 4-amino 2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl aminomethyl) phenol , 4-amino 2-fluoro phenol, and their acid addition salts.
• orthoaminophenols which can be used as oxidation bases in the dye compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may more particularly be made of 2-amind * phenol, 2-amino 5-methyl phenol, 2-amino 6-methyl phenol , 5-acetamido 2-amino phenol, and their acid addition salts.
• heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation bases in the dye compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may more particularly be made of pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolo-pyrimidine derivatives, and their salts. addition with an acid.
• pyridine derivatives mention may more particularly be made of the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diamino pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino 3-amino pyridine , 2,3-diamino 6-methoxy pyridine, 2- ( ⁇ -methoxyethyl) amino 3-amino 6-methoxy pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts with an acid.
• pyrimidine derivatives mention may be made more particularly of the compounds described for example in German patents DE 2 359 399 or Japanese JP 88-169 571 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6- tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy 5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, and their addition salts with an acid.
• 2,4,5,6- tetraaminopyrimidine 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy 5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, and their addition salts with an acid.
• pyrazole derivatives mention may more particularly be made of the compounds described in patents DE 3 843 892, DE 4 133 957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 such as 4,5-diamino 1-methyl pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1, 3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 3-methyl 1-phenyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-methyl 3-phenyl pyrazole, 4-amino 1, 3-dimethyl 5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-benzyl 4,5- diamino 3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 3-tert-butyl 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-tert-butyl 1-
• pyrazolo-pyrimidine derivatives there may be mentioned more particularly the pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidines of formula (VIII) below, their addition salts with an acid or with a base and their tautomeric forms, when there is a tautomeric equilibrium:
• R 2 o and R 2 ⁇ identical or different denote, a hydrogen atom, a C r C 4 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a CC 4 hydroxyalkyl radical, a C 2 -C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C r C 4 ) aicoxy radical alkyl C r -C 4 aminoalkyl, C r C 4 (the amine can be protected with an acetyl, ureido or sulphonyl), a (C r C 4) alkylamino alkyl DC 4, a radical di- [(CC 4) alkyl] amino alkyl C r C 4 (dialkyl radicals to form a carbon ring or a 5- or 6-membered ring), hydroxyl radical (CC 4) alkyl- or di [hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylj-amino C r C 4 alkyl;
• the radicals X denote, identical or different, a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CC 4 , an aryl radical, a hydroxyalkyl radical in CC 4 , a polyhydroxyalkyl radical C 2 -C 4 alkyl, amino alkyl, C r C 4, a (C r C 4) alkyl amino alkyl DC 4, a radical di - [(C r -C 4) alkyl] amino alkyl in C r C 4 (the dialkyls to form a carbon ring or a 5- or 6-membered ring), a hydroxy (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or di [hydroxy (C 1 -C 4) alkyl] amino alkyl C r C 4 , an amino radical, a (CC 4 ) alkyl- or di - [(C r C 4 ) alkyl] -amino radical; a halogen atom, a carboxylic acid group, a sulfonic
• - n is 0 or 1; provided that :
• n is worth 1 and the group NR 18 R 19 (or NR 20 R 21 ) and the group OH occupy the positions (2,3); (5.6); (6.7); (3.5) or (3.7);
• pyrazolo- [1, 5-a] -pyrimidines of formula (VIII) above can be prepared by cyclization from an aminopyrazole according to the syntheses described in the following references:
• pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidines of formula (VIII) above can also be prepared by cyclization from hydrazine according to the syntheses described in the following references:
• the oxidation base (s) according to the invention preferably represent from 0.0005 to 12% by weight approximately of the total weight of the dye composition ready for use, and even more preferably from 0.005 to 6% by weight approximately. of this weight.
• the couplers that can be used are those conventionally used in oxidation dye compositions, that is to say metaphenylenediamines, metaaminophenols and metadiphenols, mono- or poly-hydroxylated derivatives of naphthalene, "sesamol and its derivatives and heterocyclic compounds such as, for example, indole derivatives, indolinic derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, benzomorpholine derivatives, sesamol derivatives, pyrazolo-azole derivatives, pyrrolo-azole derivatives, imidazoleazole derivatives, derivatives pyrazolo-pyrimidiniques, pyrazolin-3,5-diones derivatives, pyrrolo- [3,2-d] -oxazole derivatives, pyrazolo- [3,4-d] - thiazole derivatives, S-oxide-thiazolo derivatives -azolics, the derivatives S, S-dioxide-thiazolo-
• couplers can in particular be chosen from 2-methyl-5-amino-phenol, 5-N- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methyl-phenol, 3-amino-phenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy - benzene, 1, 3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-benzene, 4-chloro-1, 3-dihydroxy-benzene, 2,4-diamino-1 - ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy) -benzene, 2-amino -4- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) -1 - methoxy-benzene, 1, 3-diamino-benzene, 1, 3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) - propane, sesamol, ⁇ -naphthol, 6-hydroxy-indole, 4-hydroxy-indole, 4- hydroxy-N-methyl-indole, 6-hydroxy-indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methyl-pyridine, 1-H-3-methyl-pyrazole-5-one
• these couplers preferably represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight approximately of the total weight of the dye composition ready for use and even more preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight approximately of this weight.
• addition salts with an acid which can be used in the context of the dye compositions of the invention are in particular chosen from the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates and tartrates, lactates and acetates.
• the dye composition of the invention may also contain, in addition to the oxidation dye precursors defined above and any associated couplers, direct dyes to enrich the shades with reflections.
• direct dyes can in particular then be chosen from nitro, azo or anthraquinone dyes.
• the invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair using the ready-to-use dye composition as defined above.
• At least one ready-to-use dye composition as defined above is applied to the fibers for a time sufficient to develop the desired coloration, after which it is rinsed, it is optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and we dry.
• the time necessary for the development of the coloration on the keratin fibers is generally between 3 and 60 minutes and even more precisely 5 and 40 minutes.
• the method comprises a preliminary step consisting in storing in separate form, on the one hand, a composition (A) comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one base of oxidation and optionally at least one coupler as defined above and, on the other hand, a composition (B) containing, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one enzyme of the 2-electron oxidoreductase type in the presence of at at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one amino silicone, then to mix them at the time of use before applying this mixture to the keratin fibers.
• a composition (A) comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one base of oxidation and optionally at least one coupler as defined above
• a composition (B) containing, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one enzyme of the 2-electron oxidoreductase type in the presence of at at least one donor for said enzyme and at least one amino silicone, then to mix them at the time of use before applying this mixture to
• the amino silicone is incorporated in the composition (A).
• Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments or "kit” for dyeing or any other packaging system with several compartments including a first compartment contains the composition (A) as defined above and a second compartment contains the composition (B) as defined above.
• These devices can be equipped with a means enabling the desired mixture to be delivered to the hair, such as the devices described in patent FR-2,586,913 in the name of the applicant.
• the present invention also relates to a new process for treating keratin materials, in particular the hair, with a view to obtaining permanent deformation of the latter, in particular in the form of permanent hair, this process comprising the following steps: ( i) a reducing composition is applied to the keratinous material to be treated, the keratinous material being put under mechanical tension before, during or after said application, (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous material, (iii) it is applied to the keratinous material optionally rinsed an oxidizing composition as defined above, (iv) optionally rinsing the keratin material again.
• the first step (i) of this process consists in applying to the hair a reducing composition. This application is wick by wick or globally.
• the reducing composition comprises for example at least one reducing agent, which can in particular be chosen from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, glycerol thioglycolate, thiolactic acid, or the salts of thiolactic or thioglycolic acids.
• the usual step of putting the hair under tension in a form corresponding to the final shape desired for the latter can be implemented by any means, mechanical in particular, suitable and known per se for keeping hair under tension , such as for example rollers, curlers and the like.
• Hair can also be shaped without the aid of external means, simply with the fingers.
• step (ii) of rinsing Before proceeding to the optional optional step (ii) of rinsing, it is conventionally advisable to leave the hair on which has been removed for a few minutes, generally between 5 minutes and one hour, preferably between 10 and 30 minutes. the reducing composition has been applied, and this so as to give the reducer time to act correctly on the hair.
• This waiting phase is preferably carried out at a temperature ranging from 35 ° C to 45 ° C, preferably also protecting the hair with a cap.
• step (ii) the hair impregnated with the reducing composition is therefore then rinsed thoroughly with an aqueous composition. Then, in a third step (step (iii)), the oxidizing composition of the invention is applied to the hair thus rinsed, in order to fix the new shape imposed on the hair.
• the hair to which the oxidizing composition has been applied is then, conventionally, left in a rest or waiting phase which lasts a few minutes, generally between 3 and 30 minutes, preferably between 5 and 15 minutes.
• the hair can be removed from the hair before or after the fixing step.
• step (iv) also an optional step, the hair impregnated with the oxidizing composition is rinsed carefully, generally with water.
• the oxidizing composition according to the invention can also be used in a process for bleaching keratin fibers, and in particular the hair.
• the bleaching process according to the invention comprises a step of applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing composition according to the invention in the presence or not of an auxiliary oxidizing agent.
• a second step of the bleaching process according to the invention is a step of rinsing the keratin fibers.
• the medium suitable for keratin fibers (or support) of ready-to-use dye compositions and oxidizing compositions used for permanent deformation or discoloration of keratin fibers in accordance with the invention generally consists of water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent to dissolve the compounds which are not sufficiently soluble in water.
• C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
• glycerol glycols and glycol ethers
• glycols and glycol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethyleneglycol monomethyl ether
• aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, analogues and mixtures thereof.
• the solvents may be present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately.
• the pH of the ready-to-use dye compositions and of the oxidizing compositions used for permanent deformation or discoloration of the fibers are chosen in such a way that the enzymatic activity of the 2-electron oxidoreductase is not altered. It is generally between 5 and 11 approximately, and preferably between 6.5 and 10 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in dyeing keratin fibers.
• acidifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
• mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
• basifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, 2-methyl 2-amino propanol as well as their derivatives, hydroxides sodium or potassium and the compounds of formula (IX) below
• W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C r C 4 alkyl radical
• R 22, R 23, R 24 and R 25, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C r -C 4 hydroxyalkyl C r C 4.
• the ready-to-use dye compositions and the oxidizing compositions for permanent deformation or bleaching of the keratin fibers in accordance with the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing, permanent deformation or bleaching of the hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anioftic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidant agents, enzymes different from the 2-electron oxidoreductases used in accordance with the invention such as, for example, peroxidases, penetration agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents , preservatives, opa agents cificants.
• Ready-to-use dye compositions and oxidizing compositions used for permanent deformation or discoloration of fibers keratin according to the invention can be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels, possibly pressurized, or in any other form suitable for dyeing, permanent deformation or discoloration of the fibers keratin, and in particular human hair.
• the oxidation dye (s) and the oxidoreductase (s) with 2 electrons are present within said composition which must be free of gaseous oxygen, so as to avoid premature oxidation of the oxidation dye (s).
• the ready-to-use dye composition described above was applied to locks of natural gray hair containing 90% white hairs for 30 minutes. The hair was then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, and then dried.
• Example 2 Oxidizing composition for permanent or discoloration - Uricase from Arthrobacter globiformis at 20 Units 1, 8 g

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• 1997
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• 1998
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